How should I store and apply 10 million nematodes that come packaged in a sponge?

Several companies raise and sell the nematodes, which are strictly insectivorous and cannot harm humans, pets, plants, or the beneficial earthworms in your garden. Application of the nematodes is simple. About one million nematodes come packaged on a small sponge pad, about 2-3 inches square. The sponge is soaked in about a gallon of water, and then the water is sprayed over the area to be treated. The nematodes should be distributed at night or on a cloudy day, since they die if exposed to direct sunlight. They also work best in a moist environment, so watering the yard well for several weeks after application helps them do their job most efficiently.
Nematode sources include The Bug Store, (800) 455-2847, and Integrated Biocontrol Systems, Inc., (888) 793-IBCS. Both sources offer can take your order over the phone with a credit card, and provide overnight shipping. These companies suggest using about one million nematodes per every 2500 square feet of garden or yard. Does this sound like a lot? Don’t worry! Costs range between $1-15 per million, depending on the source and quantity purchased.
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Kill pests in soil
These microscopic "worms" attack and kill over 250 different pest insects in soil, such as fungus gnats, thrips and even cutworms. Beneficial nematodes will attack any pest insect that spends part of its lifecycle resting in soil. They come on a small "sponge" that you rinse out in water. Apply the "nematodes water" to your plants with a watering can, garden sprayer or pump through a fertilizer-injector. Can be stored in refrigerator for 2-3 months. One million treat up to 3,000 sq. ft. For best results repeat applications every 4-6 weeks.(Not for use in conjuction with Aphid Predators.)
Create a favorable home for your Beneficials ahead of time…
Reminder-- Beneficial Insects don't tolerate most pesticides very well, so it's very important not to apply residual pesticides (such as Malathion and Sevin) for at least a month before using them. While you're waiting out this month period use soapy water sprays (such as Safers) or Stiky Traps right up to the day you let out the beneficials. Also botanical sprays (derived from Pyrethrin and Rotenone, for example) can be used with a one week wait afterwards. The small amount of time you spend creating more favorable conditions for Beneficial Insects will be well worth your while!
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Store in the original package in order to protect from moisture. The pouch should only be opened immediately prior to use.

Best to apply water first if soil is dry.Application and amount for 50 and 100 Mil. Nematodes. The 50 Mil. + nematodes are packed in an inert carrying material that will dissolve in water when mixed. You can use a watering can, pump sprayer; hose end sprayer and irrigation system, backpack sprayers, or motorized sprayer. The 50 and 100 Mil. Nematodes mix ½ teaspoon per gallon of water. The Large yard size: 1/2 Acre Size (50 Million) you can use up to 50 Gallons of water The Acre size 100 Mil. Nematodes you can use up to 100 Gallons of water. o For covering up to 800 square feet, place approximately 1½ teaspoons of dry nematodes in the hose end sprayer container, and then fill to the 3 gallon mark. (for Garden size) o Evenly spread the solution over the ground areas to be treated. o Continuous mixing should take place to prevent the nematodes from sinking to the bottom of the container. To avoid blockages, remove all filters from the sprayer. o You can sprinkle the soil with water again after application to move the nematodes into the soil. o Apply nematodes as soon as possible for best product performance. o Keep the soil most for the first week after application. Application for the 10 Mil. garden size Nematodes. The 10 Mil. nematodes are placed in a sponge. Place the entire sponge in a gallon of water, squeeze for a few minutes to get the nematodes out of the sponge and into the water. Discard the sponge and pour the gallon of water into the sprayer or water can and apply to the soil.Proper storage and handling is essential to nematode health. Always follow the package instructions for the best method of mixing nematodes. Formulations vary depending on the species and target insect. Nematodes can be stored in the refrigerator up to a month (not the freezer) before they are mixed with water, but once the nematodes are diluted in water, they cannot be stored. Also, nematodes shouldn’t be stored in hot vehicles, or left in spray tanks for long periods of time.

Store nematodes in the refrigerator as soon as you get them; they will keep for up to three weeks.
Things You Will Need
- Yellow fly traps
- Ready-to-use pesticide
- Bacillus thuringiensis var israelensis
- Watering can
- Beneficial nematodes
- University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources: Fungus Gnats, Shore Flies, Moth Flies, and March Flies
- Colorado State University Cooperative Extension: Fungus Gnats
- Oregon State University Extension Service: Do Your Potted Plants Have Fungus Gnats?
- Valent Professional Products: Gnatrol WDG
- Buglogical Control Systems: Nematodes Application
- Stockbyte/Stockbyte/Getty Images

These don’t really affect those of us using beneficial nematodes specifically on house plants, where the pretty constant environmental conditions provide an artificial environment for pests, so there will probably always larvae in the soil.
The storage issue is probably more for people with massive gardens that need to bulk buy. We can just keep our little packet in the fridge.
The only issue I can really find with using beneficial nematodes to get rid of fungus gnats is that they die in dry soil, so keep your cacti and succulents away from your other plants so that they don’t get re-infested once they dry out.
Since fungus gnats also don’t like moist soil that shouldn’t really be a problem after the initial application.
How to use beneficial nematodes on house plants
Your packet will come with instructions, but it’s…kinda like applying fertiliser. The nematodes usually come on a little sponge. You run water through the sponge and into a watering vessel. Then water your plants with the nematodes, then again with clean water to really work them into the soil.
I’d have thought they’d wash out, but I am not a nematode expert. Just follow the instructions.
Where can I get beneficial nematodes?
Your local garden centre probably, but Amazon sell them too.
Christ, you buy them by the million. How creepy is that??
Would I use beneficial nematodes?
The main reason I personally wouldn’t bother with beneficial nematodes is that they have a similar effect to diatomaceous earth – they get rid of pests by killing the larval stage that’s in the soil.
It just seems a lot of trouble to go to for a few gnats. THAT BEING SAID, if you have a full-on gnat infestation, you’ll probably be grateful.
I’m not sure whether I’d go for diatomaceous earth or beneficial nematodes. If I was treating my garden for pests, nematodes seem to be the way to go, but inside…I dunno. It seems..wrong…to intentionally unleash literally millions of roundworms into my home.

The nematodes feed on hosts such as termite larvae, and spider eggs and burrow into them usually causing death within 48 hours. These nematodes use the host’s carcass as a resting place and also as a site for spawning. Nematodes are usually available for purchase from garden supply stores or even online. Nematodes must ideally be used as soon as they are purchased. They must be stored away from direct sunlight, as direct sunlight contains UV rays which affect these nematodes adversely and dehydrate their gelatinous bodies.
Having an infestations of gnats in the family can be quite a problem, they tend to reproduce extensively and soon there will be a large scale problem at hand. It becomes very important to find the right solutions to tackle such infestations. You can find a number of different home remedies that will solve the issue once and for all, and it is also mostly natural means which leads to a complete solution for good. Gnats are quite a common occurrence and can be quite annoying over time. There are a number of factors that tend to attract gnats including wet floors, food remains, sinks, and rotten fruits. Outdoor sources are also a problem for attracting gnats, these include cats, dogs, house pets and sometimes even house plants.
There are a variety of methods by which you can eliminate gnats but first and foremost is the removal of the sources that tend to attract them. Firstly do not over stuff the house with too much of plants. Make sure that you also remove piles of compost and also other sources like stagnant water which can tend to create further problems of infestation. Ensure that you also remove all cracks or other sources of entry in the walls b y covering up all such openings with gypsum or some suitable material. Check potential sources of food and also ensure that you eliminate the waste food materials immediately. Keep covered at all times, waste materials and garbage and be sure to eliminate the waste in time without leaving it lying around.
There are a number of home-made traps you can use which are made with vinegar. Vinegar is an easily available substance in the house. Gnats get easily attracted by the odor and they cannot escape easily as well. Ensure that you use something like a mason jar which doesn’t make it easy for the pests to leave after entering.

It may be possible to reduce the numbers of egg-laying female ticks and thus reduce the number of young, disease-transmitting ticks the following spring.
Other USDA researchers are exploring the use of fungi as yet another biological alternative to tick-killing chemical sprays.
Nematode Application: For 50 Mil. and larger quantities. Nematodes packaged in an inert powder carrying material that dissolves in water. Applied one teaspoon of the beneficial nematodes per gallon of water. Application in using a watering can, backpack sprayers, pump sprayers, irrigation systems, hose-end sprayer, or motorized sprayer. After mixing the nematodes with water, use the spray solution immediately. Evenly spray the solution over the ground areas to be treated. Continuous mixing should take place in order to prevent the nematodes from sinking to the bottom of the container. Keep the soil slightly moist during the first 7 days after application to help establish the nematodes in the soil. Sprinkle the turf or soil again with water after the application of the nematodes. Apply nematodes as soon as possible for best product performance. You may keep the package of nematodes in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks upon receiving the product.
Nematode Application: For 10 Mil. Nematodes packaged on a sponge. Place the entire sponge in a bucket add two quarts of water, squeeze sponge for a few minutes to get the nematodes out of the sponge. Discard the sponge and pour the bucket of water into a sprayer or watering can. Add another gallon of water to dilute the nematodes and to make up the volume for your sprayer. The 10 Mil. Nematodes can only be kept for up to 3 days in refrigeration.

View Full Version : Applying Nematodes
05-07-2006, 08:55 PM
What do you apply nematodes with? A hose end sprayer? Any filter to take out?
I'll be doing this for the first time soon so I just want to make sure everything goes smoothly.
05-07-2006, 11:22 PM
I listen to radio show weekly and our guy says use hose end sprayer. They must be refrigerated in the store and your home until you use them. I don't know about filter.
05-09-2006, 12:34 PM
i have used a 1 gallon sprayer that used for non pesticide applications but a miracle grow hose end sprayer works fine. just make sure the container is cleaned out. i purchase my nematodes from a company called gardens live and they supply pretty thourogh instructions.
05-09-2006, 11:25 PM
I applied them once for a customer and used the hose end sprayer...worked fine.
I think its a joke but my sprayer didnt clog or anything.
07-18-2006, 03:56 AM
I have been using the beneficial nematodes for several years. I have found that a low pressure hose end is best. As for the filter, I would remove it. Although these dudes are microscopic, some may actually be large enough to pose a problem. Be certain that the sprayer has had nothing harmful in it as even a slight chemical residual can kill your todes.
Purchase your todes direct or from a reputable organic supplier, they have a shelf life of about 6-8 weeks and must be refrigerated upon purchasing.
Create a stock solution for the todes. Spray over a premoistened lawn in the evening. They will survive wherever vegetation survives.
Add a few tablespoons of horticultural molasses to act as a carbohydrate source, it is much like giving a Hershey bar to a 3 year old. Don't have molasses? Use a flat coke, (not diet), works great too.
Remember they do not care who purchased them and they travel on, they are not going to turn around once they get to the fence because they belong to you. I apply them 3X year and always purchase the kind that are sold on a sponge, not in a vermiculite looking medium.

Hose End Sprayers
I don’t often recommend hose end sprayers. They do the mixing for you, are inconsistent, often clog up and have a tendency to fall apart. They are okay for spraying microbe products, but not for fertilizers where the concentration and coverage are important.
Q: Can nematodes be put out with a "hose-end" sprayer? B.J., Cedar Hill.
A: Yes, just remove the strainer if present so clogging won’t occur. Use the nematodes to control fleas, grubs, fire ants, termites, thrips and other pests.

Nematodes need moisture in the soil for movement (if the soil is too dry or compact, they may not able to search out hosts) and high humidity if they are used against foliage pests. Watering the insect-infested area before and after applying nematodes keeps the soil moist and helps move them deeper into the soil. Care should be taken not to soak the area because nematodes in too much water cannot infect.Exposure to UV light or very high temperatures can kill nematodes. Apply nematodes in the early evening or late afternoon when soil temps are lower and UV incidence is lower as well (cloudy or rainy days are good too). Nematodes function best with soil temperatures between 48Fº and 93Fº day time temperatures.
Application is usually easy. In most cases, there is no need for special application equipment. Most nematodes species are compatible with pressurized, mist, electrostatic, fan and aerial sprayers! Hose-end sprayers, pump sprayers, and watering cans are effective applicators as well. Nematodes are even applied through irrigation systems on some crops. Check the label of the nematode species to use the best application method. Repeat applications if the insect is in the soil for a longer period of time. There is no need for masks or specialized safety equipment. Insect parasitic nematodes are safe for plants and animals (worms, birds, pets, children). Because they leave no residues, application can be made anytime before a harvest and there is no re-entry time after application.How to use beneficial nematodes: For the home gardener, localized spraying is probably the quickest and easiest way to get the nematodes into the soil. Producers ship beneficial nematodes in the form of dry granules, powder type clay, and sponges. All of these dissolve in water and release the millions of nematodes. Each nematode ready to start searching for an insect in your lawn or garden. Nematodes should be sprayed on infested areas at the time when pests is in the soil. Timing is important, or else you will have to repeat the application. Northern gardeners should apply the nematodes in the spring, summer and fall, when the soil contains insect larvae. Most of the beneficial nematodes are adaptive to cold weather.

Soil application of the entomopathogenic nematode Steinernema feltiae has shown efficacy against cabbage maggot in trials even at low soil temperatures 50°F/10°C) Apply by suspending infective juvenile nematodes in water and treating transplants prior to setting in the field (as a spray or soaking drench), or in transplant water used in the water wheel transplanter, as a drench after transplanting, or a combination of pre-plant and post-plant applications. Post-plant treatments are likely to be needed if maggot flight begins >1 week after transplanting. Rates of 100,000 to 125,000 infective juveniles per transplant have been shown to be needed to achieve reduction in damage. Nematodes need a moist soil environment to survive.
Chemical Controls & Pesticides:
Direct application of insecticides to the root zone is considered the most effective means for controlling maggot damage. Insecticides should be applied as a narrow band with enough water to penetrate the root zone. For direct seeded crops, apply insecticides over the row. For transplanted crops, spray should be directed to the base of the plant. A wider spray band reduces the concentration of the insecticide over the row and therefore decreases its effectiveness. Some materials may be applied as a transplant tray drench or in transplant water, or in-furrow before or during seeding or transplanting. Be sure to read the label of any material you choose to use to determine which methods it is labeled for.
Scout each successive seeding or planting to determine whether treatment is required. Onion maggot eggs are very sensitive to high soil temperatures (above 95°F), and will die if they are exposed to these temperatures for several days in a row. Generally these soil temperatures are reached by late May/early June, unless there has been excessive rain, which has a dramatic cooling effect on the soil. This means that under high soil temperatures there is no need to spray for this pest.
Soil application roducts labeled for use against onion maggot:
Check labels for specific crops allowed and other restrictions, including options for soil drench in direct-seeded and transplanted crops and transplant drench. Target the seed furrow or the base of the plants after transplanting, and use at least 100-200 gallons of water per acre to help the insecticide penetrate to the root zone.

As a preventative application, mix 8-24 fl. oz in 50-100 gallons of water or sufficient amount of water to ensure total foliar coverage. For fruit trees or berries, use 16-32 fl oz in 150 gallons of water.
For standard application, use 16-32 fl. oz, in 100 gallons of water or sufficient amount of water to ensure total foliar coverage.For berries and fruit trees, use 32-48 fl oz in 150-300 gallons of water.
For greenhouse crops use a 0.5%-1% (.60 oz-1.25 oz /Gal) and completely drench plants. For nematode control, use 52 oz-104 oz in 500-1500 gallons of water per acre as a drench or drip. For smaller growers, use 2-4 tsp per gal, depending on the level of infestation.
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Rearing and Applying Biocontrol Nematodes Manual (2016); also see Developing a Farmer-/Applicator-Friendly Persistent Biocontrol Nematodes Formulation for Field Application (2023)
An overview of the evolution of biocontrol nematode application for pest management follows.
Historic perspective: 2016
- Historically, field applications of biocontrol nematodes have primarily focused on purchasing commercial strains of entomopathogenic nematodes (EPN) and applying them as a biopesticde. Long-term establishment of nematodes in the soil profile for long-term pest suppression through pest recycling is not a focus for commercial suppliers because commercial suppliers want to sell producers nematodes every year.
For commercial nematodes to be successful for insect control, they must be applied at rates around 1 billion nematode infective juveniles (IJ) per acre. Farmers must calculate whether this annual application of commercial nematodes as a biopesticide is economically viable.
The need for persistence
- The use of nematodes in a more classical biocontrol approach requires the nematodes to persist in the environment for several growing seasons by establishing them as part of the soil fauna where they will seek out prey (soil insects), increase their nematode population, spread into adjacent areas, and persist in the field for a number of years.
- With focus on an area-wide biological program strategy using entomopathogenic nematodes as a means to control the ASB infestation in northern NY, nematode persistence under northern NY conditions is a key component and one of the main reasons why we use native-NY nematodes that have the ability to persist under NNY conditions.
Establishing Persistent Biocontrol Nematodes in the Field: 2016
To establish the persistent nematodes in a field, applicators drive the entire field using stream nozzles six ft. (6’) apart providing application coverage to 33% of the field.
- Using this management strategy, application rates of nematodes range from 20 million to 25 million nematodes per acre and nematode spread throughout the entire field will occur in 1 year based on nematode movement in the soil.
- A review of research data and rearing experience in northern NY indicated that the best combination were the two Steinernema strains of nematodes native to NNY; one functioning in shallow soil, the other in deeper soil.

Step-by-step, organic feeding kit program for lawns. No synthetic fertilizers to harm soil life, to cause rapid disease-prone growth. Organic formulas work to nurture healthy growth and support the soil ecosystem. Easy to apply. Attach the pre-mixed bottle to the garden hose and spray. Includes liquid corn gluten fertilizer for spring and fall, and fish fertilizer for summer.
Nemaglobe Grub Busters are the immediate solution for white grubs in lawns and gardens. Learn how to apply your Nemaglobe nematodes with the Environmental Factor pre-calibrated nematode sprayer. It’s the easy and effective solution to treat for common soil insect pests in your yard.

Pest Control with Nematodes
Nematodes are naturally occurring microscopic worms, already present in our soil. Beneficial nematodes attack and kill targeted garden pests. They are an effective biological control with no pest resistance issues, easy to use and compatible with organic farming.
Cut the cost of crop failure caused by garden pests and wage a targeted war on the slug army.
Nematodes are a simple and effective way to control a variety of garden pests – and they’re biological too!

Beneficial Nematodes to eliminate grubs and insect pests
Safe Biological Pest Control
Ask a Question Home Nematodes Biology fact sheet 520-298-4400 Order Your Nematodes Here! email@example.comIntegrated Pest Management IPM
NATURAL PEST CONTROL WITH BENEFICIAL NEMATODES
Biological Control Of Pest Insects With Nematodes. Beneficial Nematodes naturally occur in soil and are used to control soil pest insects and whenever larvae or grubs are present. Like all of our products, it will not expose humans or animals to any health or environmental risks. Beneficial nematodes only attack soil dwelling insects and leave plants and earthworms alone. The beneficial nematodes enters the larva via mouth, anus or respiratory openings and starts to feed. This causes specific bacteria to emerge from the intestinal tract of the nematode. These spread inside the insect and multiply very rapidly. The bacteria convert host tissue into products which can easily be taken up by the nematodes. The soil dwelling insect dies within a few days. Beneficial nematodes are a totally safe biological control in pest insects. The Beneficial nematodes are so safe the EPA has waived the registration requirements for application.NATURE'S BEST WAY OF KILLING Grubs and Japanese Beetles. We ship Beneficial Nematodes to USA and Canada. Call 520-298-4400 for information to place order for shipment to Canada. For USA visit our website www.buglogical.com
Though they are harmless to humans, animals, plants, and healthy earthworms, beneficial nematodes aggressively pursue insects. The beneficial nematodes can be used to control a broad range of soil inhabiting insects and above ground insects in their soil inhabiting stage of life. More than 200 species of pest insects from 100 insect families are susceptible to these nematodes. When they sense the temperature and carbon dioxide emissions of soil-borne insects, beneficial nematodes move toward their prey and enter the pest through its body openings. The nematodes carry an associated bacterium (Xenorhabdus species) that kills insects fast within 48 hours. The bacteria is harmless to humans and other organisms and cannot live freely in nature. Several generations of nematodes may live and breed within the dead insect, feeding on it as a food source.

Apply Nemaslug to moist soil. The soil temperature should be 5ºC or over (this is also when plants start to grow). Nematodes are capable of surviving the odd frost; so don't worry if the temperature falls after you have applied Nemaslug. Slug pellets are reported not to be effective below 7ºC.
Potatoes are susceptible to slug attack later in the season than most other plants. Apply Nemaslug Slug Killer 6 weeks before harvest, when the tubers are most likely to be eaten by slugs. If you have a heavy clay area, ensure you apply Nemaslug to well worked soil. Nemaslug is less effective on cloggy clay soil, which has not been worked and/or has become waterlogged.
- Nemaslug Slug Killer comes in pack sizes to treat 40 sq.m (50 sq.yds) and 100 sq.m (125 sq.yds).
Recognising slug damage
- Look for irregular holes with smooth edges on leaves.
- Nearby will be evidence of their slime trials. They are particularly fond of succulent seedlings, which when left unprotected, can be totally destroyed in a single night.
- As well as attacking the leafy parts of plants, slugs will also feast on your fruit and vegetable crop. Slugs will chew holes in your ripening strawberries and tomatoes.
- If your seeds do not seem to have germinated, it is possible that slugs have devoured the emerging seedlings underground.
- Slugs love potatoes, which are of course grown underground, so you cannot see them being attacked.
Nemaslug might affect water snails. To avoid harming them keep the treatment 15 cm away from ponds.

They say to apply during a rainy day or cloudy. I'd say the best time would be to apply after a core aeration. I would think it would be easier for them to get into the ground faster, but hey its just a theory. Next year I"m gona be offering much more nematode release's compared to this year. This year it seems that I have absolutly no grubs at all. Kinda weird I think but then again its not the end of august or begining of september so we'll see.

I have read about various DIY concoctions from steeped plant leaves used as a spray but they are all from toxic plants and sound a little too unknown for me. This year I have decided to get tough and employ the assassins of the pest world, nematodes, in the form of Nemasys Grow Your Own, which is completely harmless to the environment. I am ready for the next generation. Round 2 to the nematodes I hope!

When the food source is gone, they migrate into the soil in search of a new host. When the pest population is eliminated, the beneficial nematodes die off and biodegrade. Beneficial nematodes are so effective, they can work in the soil to kill the immature stages of garden pests before they become adults.
Beneficial nematodes infest grubs and other pest insects that are known to destroy lawns and plants.
The Nematodes are effective against grubs and the larval or grub stage of Japanese Beetles, Northern Masked Chafer, European Chafer, Rose Chafer, Fly larvae, Oriental Beetles, June Beetles, Flea beetles, Bill-bugs, Cut-worms, Army worms, Black Vine Weevils, Strawberry Root Weevils, Fungus Gnats, Sciarid larvae, Sod Web-worms, Girdler, Citrus Weevils, Maggots and other Dip-tera, Mole Crickets, Iris Borer, Root Maggot, Cabbage Root Maggot and Carrot Weevils.
Beneficial nematodes belong to one of two genera: Steinernema and Heterorhabditis are commercially available in the U.S. Steinernema is the most widely studied beneficial nematode because it is easy to produce. Heterorhabditis is more difficult to produce but can be more effective against certain insects, such as th white grubs, and Japanese beetles.How beneficial nematodes work: The life cycle of beneficial nematodes consists of six distinct stages: an egg stage, four juvenile stages and the adult stage. The adult spends its life inside the host insect. The third juvenile stage, called a dauer, enters the bodies of insects (usually the soil dwelling larval form. Some nematodes seek out their hosts, while others wait for the insect to come to them. Host seeking nematodes travel through the soil the thin film of water that coats soil particles. They search for insect larvae using built-in homing mechanisms that respond to changes in carbon dioxide levels and temperature. They also follow trails of insect excrement. After a single nematode finds and enters an insect through its skin or natural openings, the nematode release a toxic bacteria that kills its host, usually within a day or two.

Nematodes are microscopic soil-dwelling worms, many less than 1/16-inch long.
There are beneficial nematodes and pest nematodes.
Beneficial nematodes help turn organic matter into plant nutrients. They also prey on soil-dwelling plant pests such as white grubs and root maggots.
Pest nematodes feed on plant roots, stunting and sometimes killing plants including many vegetables.
Nematodes are slender, translucent, unsegmented worms. Pest nematodes can be as small as 1/50-inch long. Beneficial nematodes that parasitize pest insects are larger, 1/25-inch long to several inches long.
Nematodes live in the film of water that coats soil particles; they thrive where the soil is rich, moist and warm. Nematodes can’t move more than about 3 feet on their own in the course of their lives, but they often travel around the garden in water, in shifted soil, in soil surrounding transplants, and on garden tools and even ants.
Predatory nematodes either have teeth or long spear-like structures which they use to stab and suck the juices out of plants or their insect prey.
Nematode reproduction is usually sexual, though some individuals are capable of self-fertilization. Eggs are laid in a gelatinous mass. From hatching to full-formed adulthood, nematode development usually consists of four molts that take about a month; the life cycle of some pest species is only 3 or 4 weeks. There are many generations over the course of a year. When the soil grows cold, nematodes overwinter as eggs or adults. Where winters are not cold, nematodes are active year round.
Nematodes are found throughout North America.
Some pest nematodes attack the roots of tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, lettuce, corn, and other vegetables. Other pest nematodes attack the stems and leaves of onions, rye, and alfalfa.
Pest nematodes include root-knot nematodes, lesion nematodes, ring nematodes, and sting nematodes.
Damage inflicted by these pests includes root knots or galls, injured root tips, excessive root branching, leaf galls, lesions on drying tissue, and twisted, distorted leaves. This damage can result in stunted growth and sometimes plant death.

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in Problem solving
Over the winter my potted plants that have been sheltering undercover in the polytunnel seem to have become infested with vine weevil grubs - even my nectarine tree has the little white creatures in the soil. I can't water the pots with Provado as it says it can't be used on edible plants. Has anyone used the nematode approach and does it work?
Nematodes do work, you need to apply twice yearly and keep the soil moist for these microscopic worms to work.

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Kills fleas in the yard and garden where they breed, but is harmless to people, pets and the environment. Made of 7 million microscopic organisms that penetrate the body of juvenile fleas living in the soil. After killing the juveniles these organisms reproduce and continue searching for more pests. For effective flea control, a three-part program is important: fleas must be attacked on pets and animals, in the carpet and upholstery, and outside in the ground. Flea Destroyer is the crucial third step – outdoor flea control.
- It’s easy to use: all you do is mix it with water and spray.
- Each container includes seven million live beneficial nematodes.
- One container of Flea Destroyer will cover approximately 2000 square feet in ideal conditions.
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Move the sponge a bit and shake it again. Do it for 3-4 times till the sponge is a bit wet (not soaked!).
2. Put the sponge on the surface and apply the coating with short and quick movements.
Don’t do circular movements. Keep applying till the whole area is covered.
3. At temperatures of less than 25c leave the coating for less than 3 minutes before removal. At higher temperatures remove the coating almost immediately after applying.
4. Remove the coating with a microfiber towel cloth till smear free. We recommend using 2 towels/cloths for excess coating removal.
5. For extra durability we recommend applying a second layer. Second layer is to be applied 2-3 hours after the first one. The hotter the sooner.
1. Always use new microfiber towels/cloths
2. The coating crystallizes around the bottle necks, so take extra care when opening bottles for the first time.
3. Remember not to mix applicator sponges and other towels if other coatings are applied simultaneously.
4. Pay attention: once the sponges are dried, the liquid get crystalized and sponges couldn’t be re-used.
5. Recommended consumption is 10 ml. per sqm in 2 layers: ~7.5 ml. for the first layer and ~2.5 ml. per sqm for the second.

This spore density was used for all four fungal isolates and two further sets of chlamydospore densities were prepared to give 1 × 103 and 5 × 103 chlamydospores/g soil for isolate Pcc60 only and designated Pcc60A and Pcc60B respectively and Pcc60C (1 × 104 chlamydospores/g soil).
The nematode genera present in soil were mostly non-parasitic nematodes with very few Tylenchidae, and there were no root-knot nematodes present.
Pistachio cv Kaleghochi was chosen for the experiment. Prior to planting, seeds were disinfested for 4 min in 1% NaOCl, rinsed with sterile distilled water, immersed in 1% pentachloronitrobenzen, followed by soaking overnight in sterilized water and then pre-germinated in the dark on moist filter paper in Petri dishes.
One seedling was planted in each pot and allowed to establish for a month, when each relevant pot was inoculated with a suspension of nearly 3000 eggs of M. javanica added to three holes around each plant. Treatments included: nematode + isolate of Pcc10, Pcc20, Pcc30 and Pcc60C (10,000 cfu/g soil); nematode + isolate Pcc60B (5000 cfu/g soil), nematode + isolate Pcc60A (1000 cfu/g soil), nematodes alone and pistachio alone. Each treatment was replicated five times, and the pots were arranged in a completely randomized design on a glasshouse bench, with average temperature of 27.5 °C, and irrigated as required.
Plants were harvested after 4 months. Roots were washed in water, blotted gently dry and the fresh weights of the pistachio shoots and roots were taken. The numbers of galls or egg masses on roots were rated based on the 0–5 scale of Hartman and Sasser (1985).
To determine nematode multiplication rates, eggs were extracted from the roots by the NaOCl, using the same procedure as described above (Hussey and Barker 1973), treated roots were further processed in a blender to extract any possibly hidden eggs within the roots.

Using Vine Weevil Killer in a greenhouse during colder months
If you want to apply nematodes to your greenhouse when the outdoor soil temperature is <5ºC (40ºF) or in sheltered gardens where the soil is already warm enough, please order this product and we will send your order straight away.
Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer is the simple solution to kill vine weevil.
This standard pack of Vine Weevil Killer Nematodes will treat up to 100 sq.m or over 1300 pots.
What is Vine Weevil Killer?
Nemasys® Vine Weevil Killer contains the natural nematode, Steinernema Kraussei, which is effective at controlling vine weevil grubs, but is totally safe for children, pets and wildlife and can be used on edible crops too! It comes as a powder simply mix with water and apply like a liquid feed to the soil around the roots.
How does Vine Weevil Killer Work?
The Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer nematodes (Steinernema kraussei), seek out the vine weevil larvae and attack the pest by entering natural body openings. Once inside, they release bacteria that causes blood poisoning stopping the larvae from feeding, quickly killing it. The nematodes then reproduce inside the dead pest and release a new generation of hungry infective nematodes, which disperse and search for further prey.
To keep a minor problem at bay, one autumn treatment should be adequate. However, for a serious infestation, treat in the spring and again in the autumn. When treating pots take care that soil is not left to dry out. Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer will kill larvae present in the area and protect against further larvae damage for up to four weeks.
When to apply Nemaslug outdoors:
Apply to pots and open ground March to May and August to November. This is when the vine weevil larvae are present and the soil is above 5ºC (40ºF). If applying under cover the pests life cycle is broken and Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer can be applied at any time, as long as the soil is above 5ºC (40ºF). Apply directly to the soil around the roots which is where the larvae will be feeding.

If you remove the soil from the tree you should be able to find the current generation easily and physically remove them. Also no need for washing the roots imo. Dispose them in a trash bag. There are nematodes available for treatment (in landscaping there is no chance of physically removing them and thus breaking the cycle) but you need to establish the species to apply the right one.
I once had such an infestation in a some garden centre plant (normal garden, not bonsai) and removing them from the pot was all it needed to get rid of the problem.

Nematodes used for the experiment were reared on tomato seedlings of cv Early Urbana inoculated with 5000 second-stage juveniles (J2) as explained in Ebadi et al. (2009). At harvest, plant roots were washed, cut into pieces, placed in a jar of 0.5% commercial NaOCl and shaken for 4 min. The suspension was washed with tap water through 75- and 20-μm sieves and their numbers were counted with a counting slide under a light microscope (Hussey and Barker 1973).
The four strains of P. chlamydosporia var. chlamydosporia (Pcc isolated with the accession numbers of Pcc10, Pcc20, Pcc30 and Pcc60) used in this study had been maintained on corn meal agar at 5 °C in the Nematology Department Collection, Iranian Research Institute of Plant Protection, Tehran.
The fungal inoculum preparations were made according to the procedure of De Leij et al. (1993). Conical flasks were filled with a mixture of sand + milled barley (1:1 v/v) and 30 ml distilled water was added for each 100 g of mixture and autoclaved at 121 °C for 20 min on two consecutive days. Flasks were inoculated with plugs of isolates, kept at 25 °C and occasionally shaken for even growth. After 3 weeks, 5 g of the sand/barley substrate, mixed well with 100 ml distilled water, was transferred to a blender (Waring) and blended for 2 min. The contents were washed onto a 45-μm aperture sieve, and the chlamydospores were collected on a nested 10-μm sieve (De Leij et al. 1993). The chlamydospores were counted by a hemocytometer.
A suspension of washed chlamydospores was mixed with 50 g sterilized sand, added to 1 kg natural soil collected from a pistachio orchard, and the resulting mixture was used to fill a 14-cm diameter plastic pot, to give a final count of 1 × 104 chlamydospores/g soil.

Sierra Biological was founded to provide growers with an economical way to reduce their reliance on chemical pesticides which can have long-term negative effects on soil, water and non-target organisms including human health. Plants treated with pesticides may also cause phytotoxic effects reducing crop yield or affecting their appearance. Beneficial nematodes, also called entomopathogenic or insect-parastic nematodes, are sustainable alternatives to chemicals. These nematodes parasitize the larval or pupal stage of many of damaging insects found in the soil of greenhouses and gardens (see list of targeted insects). After they parasitize their "insect host," they multiply and many thousands emerge to seek out new prey.
Entomopathogenic nematodes are completely inert to plants, animals and many other beneficial biological control agents. When applied following labelled instructions, these beneficial nematodes are safe and have been specifically exempt from E.P.A. registration.
We produce 100% natural beneficial nematodes using Mother Nature's very own formula. While the in-vivo method may be more labor intensive than in-vitro production, we have found that we get much stronger, more effective nematodes this way by natural selection.
We also supply praying mantis and ladybugs.

The extracts were filtered through 75- and 20-μm sieves, and the numbers of eggs were estimated from the contents of the latter.
The populations of J2 were measured in 200 g soil from each pot of each treatment combination by means of modified Whitehead trays (Whitehead and Hemming 1965). The final total population density of healthy nematodes was calculated by combining the total numbers of J2 and healthy eggs. For estimation of the numbers of healthy eggs, the total numbers of infected eggs were subtracted from the total numbers of eggs. A reproduction factor was estimated by dividing the final nematode population density by the initial population density (Pf/Pi) (Ebadi et al. 2009).
To verify the percentage of egg infection, 10 egg masses/replicate (there were few egg masses at the time) were incubated in 0.05% NaOCl between a glass slide and coverslip and observed under × 400 magnification. To re-isolate and confirm identification of these infected eggs, a 0.2-ml sub-sample of a suspension made from these eggs was taken, spread over the surface of 0.8% water agar, containing 50 ppm each of tetracycline, chloramphenicol and streptomycin, and the grown hyphae were sub-cultured on PDA for further examination.
Viability and abundance of the fungi in soil and on the roots at the end of the experiment were checked, using a SSM (semi-selective medium) (De Leij and Kerry 1991). A sub-sample of 1 g soil from each replicate was added to 9 ml of 0.05% sterile water agar and used to prepare dilution series of 10− 1 to 10− 4. An aliquot of 0.2 ml of each dilution was transferred onto a 9-cm Petri dish containing SSM, with three replicates per dilution. Dishes were kept in an incubator at 25 °C for 1 or 2 weeks and the final numbers of cfu were counted.

Originally Posted by dramaqueen
I would try frozen but I'm afraid they'd be too messy.
1)Buy them in the blister-packs by Hikari
2)Get your feeding kit together (a special brine shrimp net, a plastic cup and a pipette/tweezers)
3)Store the pack in a tupperware container (always be food safe :)) in the freezer.
4)When you want to feed, pop a cube into the net.
5)Run hot water over it (preferably somewhere like a laundry room sink, bath tub, somewhere where you don't prepare food) until it is melted. By using the hot water you have also rinsed it.
6)Holding the cup under the net to catch the drips, bring it to the fish tanks.
7)Use the pipette/tweezers to pick up worms and feed.
8)Rinse everything under hot water and put it in the cup for next time.

Once the host is dead, the nematodes feed on this bacteria-host slurry and mature to adulthood.
Effectiveness as a Biological Control Agent
Entomopathogenic nematodes have several advantages over chemical control. They are safe for humans and pets. No special safety equipment or masks are required. No re-entry time needs to be considered and they are safe for pollinators, such as bees. They also pose no concerns for groundwater contamination, problems with chemical trespass or dangerous residues. These nematodes kill their hosts quickly, usually within 24 to 48 hours, far quicker than most biological controls, which can take days or weeks to be effective. Several species of both Steinernema and Heterorhabditis have been tested for effectiveness against ticks with varying degrees of success, the most successful now marketed under several brand names. Engorged female ticks were found to be the most susceptible to infestation as they hide in the upper layers of soil while digesting their blood meal.
Any beneficial nematode product should be applied to moist soil early in the morning or at dusk as they are sensitive to the light. Be sure to select a product with a nematode species effective against ticks. Products containing Steinernema feltiae and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora have proven to be most useful. However, with more resistance to chemicals developing in the insect world, research is ongoing to find and develop more effective nematode predators.

Phytoseiulus persimilis are excellent for cold climates! Use preventatively as they over-winter and can be sustained on pollen. Release at the beginning and end of the season.
Additional Mite Control - Benefical Insects, Insecticides, Cultural Controls
This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases: Two-Spotted Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae), Spider Mite (Mult)
Release immediately for best results. It is best to release Phytoseiulus persimilis in late evening on the day you receive them. Before releasing, gently rotate the jar to distribute the mites evenly within the carrier. Next, open the jar in the crop and gently tap the contents out of the jar as evenly as possible onto the foliage of the plants you wish to treat. Concentrate the bulk of them on or near the most heavily infested plants. In trees, sprinkle them into Dixie-like cups wedged into, or distribution boxes hung from, the branches. Leave the bottle in the treatment area for 24 hours after release to ensure all Phytoseiulus persimilis have exited.
Due to its high reproduction rate, P. persimilis can exhaust its food supply and die out. Because of this, P. persimilis should be applied as an active control, not as a preventative measure. Repeated releases are recommended until all spider mite infestations have P. persimilis present.
Since they are unable to sustain themselves without a mite population to feed on, look to N. fallacis for preventative applications as they can feed on pollen and small arthropods in the absence of mites.
Outdoors, Crops, Nursery, Greenhouse, Grow Room, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, Pond & Environment, Interiorscapes, and Container Plants.
If not releasing immediately, keep in a cool dark place out of direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate.
Use within 18 hours of receipt.
The complete P. persimilis life cycle varies based on temperature with higher temperatures accelerating the process and cooler temperatures slowing it down. At 86°F, maturity is reached after 5 days, while maturity is reached in as many as 25 days at 59°F. The sex ratio for P. persimilis is 4:1 female to male with females laying 2-3 eggs per day.

The combined effect of the application of a biocontrol agent Paecilomyces lilacinus, with various practices for the control of root-knot nematodes
Anastasiadis, I. A., Giannakou, I. O., Prophetou-Athanasiadou, D. A. and Gowen, S. R. (2008) The combined effect of the application of a biocontrol agent Paecilomyces lilacinus, with various practices for the control of root-knot nematodes. Crop Protection, 27 (3-5). pp. 352-361. ISSN 0261-2194
Full text not archived in this repository.
To link to this item DOI: 10.1016/j.cropro.2007.06.008
The effectiveness of a formulated product containing spores of the naturally occurring fungus Paecilomyces lilacinus, strain 251, was evaluated against root-knot nematodes in pot and greenhouse experiments. Decrease of second-stage juveniles hatching from eggs was recorded by using the bio-nematicide at a dose of 4 kg ha(-1), while a further decrease was recorded by doubling the dose. However, the mortality rate decreased by increasing the inoculum level. Application of P. lilacinus and Bacillus firmus, singly or together in pot experiments, provided effective control of second-stage juveniles, eggs or egg masses of root-knot nematodes. In a greenhouse experiment, the bio-nematicide was evaluated for its potential to control root-knot nematodes either as a stand-alone method or in combination with soil solarization. Soil was solarized for 15 d and the bio-nematicide was applied just after the removal of the plastic sheet. Soil solarization for 15 d either alone or combined with the use of P. lilacinus did not provide satisfactory control of root-knot nematodes. The use of oxamyl, which was applied 2 weeks before and during transplanting, gave results similar to the commercial product containing P. lilacinus but superior to soil solarization. (C) 2007 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

However, hot water treatment is unlikely to be 100% effective and may also predispose plants to other diseases.
Preplant fumigation can effectively reduce plant-parasitic nematode infestations in onion fields.
|Common name||Amount per acre||REI‡||PHI‡|
|(Example trade name)||(hours)||(days)|
|When choosing a pesticide, consider its usefulness in an IPM program by reviewing the pesticide's properties, efficacy, application timing, and information relating to resistance management, honey bees, and environmental impact. Not all registered pesticides are listed. Always read the label of the product being used.|
|(InLine)||Label rates||See label||NA|
|COMMENTS: This product is a soil fumigant used for preplant treatment of soil to control plant parasitic nematodes, symphylans, and certain weeds as well as to mitigate the impact of various soilborne fungal pathogens using low volume (drip) irrigation systems only. The use of a tarp seal is mandatory for all applications of this product to vegetable fields. Soil fumigants such as this product are a source of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) but are minimally reactive with other air contaminants that form ozone. Its use amounts are restricted on a township basis.|
|(Telone EC)||Label rates||120 (5 days)||NA|
|COMMENTS: Fumigants such as 1,3-dichloropropene are a source of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) but are minimally reactive with other air contaminants that form ozone. Use of a tarp seal is mandatory for all applications to vegetables in California.|
|(Vapam HL)||Label rates||See label||NA|
|COMMENTS: Fumigants such as metam sodium are a source of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) but are minimally reactive with other air contaminants that form ozone.|
|(K-Pam HL)||Label rates||See label||NA|
|COMMENTS: Fumigants such as metam potassium are a source of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) but are minimally reactive with other air contaminants that form ozone.|
|PLANTING OR AFTER|
|(Vydate L)*||Label rates||48||See label|
|COMMENTS: Can be applied in-furrow, as a band, or in sprinkler or furrow irrigation.

Beneficial nematodes are used in greenhouses to manage fungus gnats. Some growers have success using them to manage thrips also.
Are my beneficial nematodes alive?
After receiving a shipment of beneficial nematodes, it is important to access their quality before application. To do this, place a small sample of nematodes (5 ml) into a shallow container or Petri dish. Add one to two drops of tepid water, then wait a few minutes (about 10 minutes) and look for the actively moving nematodes. If the nematodes are alive, they will have a snake like movement or will be curled into a circle (“like a doughnut”). If they are dead, they will have a straight arrow-like appearance. You may see some dead nematodes, but most companies supply extra nematodes to compensate for the presences of any dead nematodes.
If using a microscope, it may be easier to see the nematodes if you have a light source from below, or if your light source is from above, placing the dish of nematodes against a black background as seen here.
Note: this photo was taken over one day after the nematodes were applied (it is recommended to apply the solution immediately), which accounts for the presence of the dead nematodes.
For more information see the fact sheet “Biological Control: Using Beneficial Nematodes”.

The beneficial nematodes enter the fungus gnat through any available orifice (or failing that, right through the side of their body) and poison it, by releasing bacteria from their gut.
At first this may seem mean and disturbing (and it is), but the beneficial nematodes aren’t just doing this for a laugh. The purpose of killing the host is to provide the nematodes with something to feed on.
How long does it take for beneficial nematodes to kill fungus gnats?
It takes 24-48 hours for the nematodes bacteria to cause the host fatal blood poisoning. Pretty speedy then. However, it can take a couple of weeks for your gnat problem to be under control.
The length of time it takes for the nematodes to kill pests varies due to factors such as the size of the pest, the size of the infestation, and the environment they’re in. Nematodes are sensitive to ultraviolet light and temperature.
It’s recommended that two doses of beneficial nematodes are given, a week or so apart, to make sure all gnats are eradicated.
What are the advantages of using beneficial nematodes over other methods of fungus gnat prevention?
- Beneficial nematodes don’t pose any risk to humans, pets and plants. They’re predators that pray on other bugs only.
- Beneficial nematodes are naturally occurring, although they have been bred commercially. They’re a pretty holistic and non-toxic method, as terrifying as their methods are.
- Fungus gnats can’t build up a resistance to them, just like penguins can’t develop a resistance to leopard seals
- Beneficial nematodes don’t pose a threat to beneficial insects such as ladybirds, earthworms, and bees. How do they know?
- They can last for up to 18 months in the soil. Pretty impressive, although it’s unlikely that you’ll have enough pests to sustain them for that long. If you have a vegetable garden that’ prone to pests though, beneficial nematodes would be a cost effective, non-toxic solution.
Are there any disadvantages of using beneficial nematodes?
Whilst there are many disadvantages to using beneficial nematodes outside, such as:
- You need to time application right so that the pests are in the right stage of their lifecycle
- They need to be kept above 54F/12C
- They can be difficult to store.

- Add organic compost to garden beds. Beneficial fungi and bacteria that attack pest nematodes thrive in organically rich soil.
- Plant French marigolds (Tagetes patula) or African marigolds (Tagetes erecta) in the garden as a cover crop; grow only these plants for two months across vegetable planting beds. After two months, cut them down, let them dry in place, then turn them into the soil. Chemicals in these plants repels nematodes. You will likely have to repeat this treatment in two years.
- Solarize the soil. Cover the soil with clear plastic during the hottest part of the summer to kill both pest nematodes; this will rid the soil of pest nematodes for a year or two. However, beneficial organisms are also harmed or destroyed by solarization of soil.
- Add chitin to the soil. Chitin is a natural component of nematodes bodies. Fungi attack nematodes by breaking down the chitin in the body. Adding chitin to the soil will stimulate fungi to attack nematodes.
- Add ground sesame stalks to planting beds. Sesame will suppress nematodes.
- Leave the garden fallow for a year. The nematode population will decline if denied food for a year.
- Till the soil in winter to expose nematodes to killing sunlight and dryness.
Not all nematodes are pests; some are beneficial to soil and plants. These nematodes eat organic matter in the soil helping to decompose it and turn it into nutrients for plants. They also attack and kill harmful insect pest, ingest the remains, and turn it into nutrients—especially nitroten–plants can take up.
Beneficial nematodes that are insect parasites are harmless to humans, wildlife, bees, and earthworms. They attack cutworms, root weevils, corn and stem borers, and squash vine borers and some pest root nematodes.
The beneficial nematodes attack soil-dwelling insects through their natural body openings. Once inside, these beneficial nematodes release a bacterium that paralyzes and kills the insect. The nematodes then feed on the tissue of the insect carcass and also eat the bacteria. They reproduce inside the carcass and then move on to a new host.

This has significant negative impacts on the soil biology and its biodiversity, hence long term does nothing to improve the situation. As a consequence most growers prefer not to use them. Thankfully now there is an alternative that shows great promise to control plant parasitic nematodes in a much more sustainable way.
NEMguard which is a regsitered nematicide in Europe contains an active constituent called diallyl polysulphides which is found in all allium plants, but exists in garlic in much higher levels.. The particualr garlic extract in NEMguard acts on plant parasitic nematodes at very low doses and lasts just long enough in the soil to deal with the egg and juvenile stage of the parasitic nematode. When applied to the soil it dissolve through their cuticle cuasing rapid and irreversible cellular damage.
Over the coming months OCP will be conducting numerous trials in horticultural crops and turf to generate the efficacy data package for APVMA registration.

How to Release Your Fly Eliminators
The insects are shipped as parasitized pupae in a wood chip medium and are dispersed by releasing a small handful at "hot spots". To release, scratch a 1-inch hole in the ground with your boot heel, drop in a small handful of sawdust and pupae, and cover them with straw, earth, or manure to protect them against wind, birds, ants or pesticides. The amount of parasites to release depends upon the size of the "hot spot". Use as small as a teaspoon or as large an amount as a handful. These parasites travel up to 150 feet in search of visible fly larvae and pupae.
Seed as many hot spots as possible with your first application, concentrating heavily on the obvious fly-breeding areas. Repeat this release procedure in slightly different spots on subsequent applications. In this way, new cultures of parasites will be evenly distributed throughout the fly season.
DO NOT place the parasitized pupae in standing pools of water or in the center of manure piles. Instead, place them around the perimeter.
US Mail is the standard shipping method for fly eliminators. The cost of shipping via USPS is included.
Shipping Upgrades to Ground or Overnight are available. Please call us at 1-800-827-2847 to ensure proper shipping for your needs.
There is an additional $8.50 per shipment for shipping via either UPS or FedEx Ground. Overnight shipping is market-priced by distance from Tucson, Arizona.

Nematode Part 1
Traditional methods of controlling nematodes in garden soil relied on crop rotation and allowing fields to sit fallow so that root parasites had no hosts. The soil fumigant carbon disulfide was first used in French vineyards in the 1880s. Surplus World War I teargas was used for soil fumigation until supplies were exhausted. In the 1940s, various pre-planting chemical fumigants were developed. By the 1960s, organophosphates and carbamates were successfully applied on fields among living plants.
Human Vs. Nematode Part 2
The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service, which is funded through the U.S. Department of Agriculture, recommends organic nematode control. Rotating unrelated crops prevents nematodes from attacking the same host each year. Adding composted organic matter improves soil structure and releases plant toxins lethal to nematodes, and it also increases fungus and bacteria that parasitize nematodes. Minimum tillage maintains a high number of nematoparasites. Nemato-suppressive soil amendments include oil-cakes, sawdust, sugarcane bagasse, bone meal, horn meal and green manures such as cereal rye. Chitinous amendments such as crushed shells of shrimp and crab nourish fungi that also eat chitin in nematode eggs.

Three beneficial nematodes are: Steinernema carpocapsae attacks cutworms, armyworms, corn rootworms, and fire ants; Steinernema fetiae attacks root knot nematodes, ring nematodes, and string nematodes; Heterorhabditis bacteriophora attacks cabbage root maggots, Colorado potato beetle larvae, white grubs, and root weevils.
Beneficial nematodes can be purchased for use in the garden. Beneficial nematodes come packaged in a gel, in a power, or mixed with peat and vermiculite. They are commonly mixed with water before being applied with a watering can or sprayer to the soil or plants, or injected into plant stems by syringe. It is important to follow label instructions when applying nematodes to the soil or plants. Commonly applications are repeated every two to three weeks if needed.
The efficacy of nematode application can be affected by hot weather, cold soil, and heavy rain. Nematodes are most active in temperatures between 72°F and 82°F.

Will Bti harm beneficial nematodes? Timing of Neem oil use and beneficial nematodes
I am currently fighting a fungus gnat infestation in my 100+ vegetable seedlings and dozens of house plants. I have ordered S.feltiae nematodes for treatment of new soil; have treated existing seedlings and every plant in the house with reconstituted mosquito dunks (active ingredient is Bt-israliensis or Bt H-14) in the watering can and am spraying with pyrethrin to catch the escapees; posting sticky cards to get a count. With time, wine (pour moi) and muttered curse words, I hope to have these buggers knocked down soon. After I introduce the 'todes to the new soil, will they be harmed by watering with Bti- like is there a residual bacillus carryover from larvae that are dying to the 'todes that eat them or if the larvae are dead, will the Bti attack the 'todes? Obviously, if there are no live larvae, the 'todes will starve to death and the Bti will be ineffective against the dead gnat larvae. Since I don't have a microscope or loupe, I can't tell if there are any live larvae in a soil sample so I'm using "absence of adults" as my best determination that anything is working. I have read up that I should not use my Neem oil spray on soil with beneficial nematodes. I am going to get a shipment of S.carpocapsae for the garden and the fruit trees grounds when it warms up enough to put in my seedlings. How long should I wait to spray any plant with Neem oil?
Cass County Minnesota
No, Bacillus will not harm beneficial nematodes. It only targets lepidoptera larvae (caterpillars). Neem oil should also not affect the nematodes.
One way to test for fungus gnat larvae is to put a slice of potato on the soil surface (if there is room).
You'll want to reduce your watering to control the gnats, too.
For any other questions, please contact your local county extension office in Cass County. http://www3.extension.umn.edu/county/cass

Rich Farm 5
• This 60 g package is good for 666 m².
• Ensure moisture of soil for maximum effect, dry soil hinders product function.
• Please apply the microbes hand-in-hand with chemical or organic fertilizers.
• Standard Operating Procedure
• Sprinkling irrigation: Mix the 60 g Rich Farm 5 and 180 L water, then add the mixture and sufficient water volume into watering system and apply to moist soil around root.

2 g of NaCl
4 g of Bactotryptone
3 g of KH2PO4
0.5 g of K2HPO4
20 g of agar
1 mL of 5 mg/mL cholesterol (dissolved in 100% ethanol)
Dissolve all ingredients in 1 liter of distilled water and autoclave.
Escherichia coli: Strain OP50 or a streptomycin-resistant derivative of E. coli OP50 is used as nematode food. OP50 is a uracil auxotroph, meaning that this strain of bacteria can not synthesize the essential nutrient uracil; therefore, growth of this strain is not as robust as in wild type E. coli, even when the culture medium provides sufficient uracil. Because bacterial growth is limited by the auxotrophy, the "lawn" of bacteria does not grow so thick as to obscure observation of nematodes. NGM-lite agar medium poured into sterile plastic petri plates are seeded with a liquid culture of OP50 E. coli bacteria by applying a drop or two on the middle of the plate. C. elegans worms will generally confine themselves to the bacterial lawn; therefore, leaving the edges of the plate unseeded with bacterial "food" allows us to observe fairly easily all the animals.
Several hundred adult worms may be grown on a single 60 mm x 15 mm NGM-lite plate without exhausting the bacterial supply. However, each animal produces close to 300 offspring, meaning that the capacity of a plate can be exhausted within one to two days if too many worms are transferred. When the bacterial food is exhausted, the adults die of starvation and the population becomes primarily geriatric adults and young larvae, neither of which are useful for setting up further experiments or crosses. Plates inoculated with 5 or fewer worms can support one generation of growth and last up to a week in good condition if the temperature is controlled carefully.
Methods for Handling Worms
- Wire Tool (“worm pick”): One end of a fine platinum wire is embedded in a Pasteur pipette and the other end is flattened to make a tiny shovel. The tool is sterilized by briefly passing it through a flame. Older larvae and adults can be lifted off a plate by scooping under them and lifting up. In this way, individual worms can be "captured" and transferred.

If beetles are stored in the refrigerator (do not freeze them) and released periodically, warm beetles weekly to room temperature and feed them very dilute sugar water by misting them using a trigger-pump spray bottle. Do not refrigerate the lady beetles with food as they excrete an unpleasant odor.”
Most commercial packages contain enough lady beetles to control aphids on one shrub or a few small plants. In most cases, 95% of these will fly away within 48 hours, even if aphids are abundant. If you apply lady beetles again, place them at the base of plants at dawn or dusk, never in hot sun, and spray plants and lady beetles gently with water. Never put them on plants that have been treated with insecticide as it will kill them. You may have better luck with using green lacewings for long term aphid control as they don’t tend to fly away and as long as you have blooming plants that provide nectar for the adults to eat, they tend to stick around even after the aphids are gone.
The Shasta Master Gardeners Program can be reached by phone at 530-242-2219 or email firstname.lastname@example.org. The gardener office is staffed by volunteers trained by the University of California to answer gardeners' questions using information based on scientific research.

If swallowed, give two glasses of water. Do not induce vomiting. Get medical advice.
Eye splashes: irrigate with a stream of water for 15 minutes. Get medical advice.
Skin splashes: Wash immediately with clean water.
Bees: Only apply to plants in flower when bees are not foraging ie early morning or evening.
Standard precautions also apply. See Product Index, page 4.
Nil all crops. NZ trials have shown no residues on crops (apple, grape, avocado). A period of 3 days should elapse between the last application and harvesting of all crops as a precautionary approach.
Do not apply if rain is likely to fall within three hours following treatment.
No additional surfactant or wetting agent is required.
May be tank mixed with commonly used fungicides except lime sulphur, Bordeaux mixture and other copper compounds.
Thorough coverage of plants is essential for optimal results. Can be applied through any calibrated conventional ground spraying equipment. Water rates will depend on the crop and growth stage. When using concentrate spraying techniques and low water rates, adjust the dilution rate accordingly. Note: Following application, insects will stop feeding , become inactive and stop causing damage. Pests may still be present on treated plants for some time after application.
Controls a wide range of pests including aphids, bronze beetle, erinose mite, whitefly, leaf-mining flies, mealy bug , scale insects, potato tuber moth, brown beetle (grass grub), cicada, weevils and midges. It should be combined with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) insecticides to provide more complete protection against caterpillar where they are a problem with multiple generations. Note: For greenhouse crops ensure complete coverage of the underside of al leaves. Aphids: Use 300-500 ml/100 litres water and apply when pests are first seen. Monitor crop and repeat application 10-14 days later if necessary.
Mealy bug, thrips, whitefly: Use 500 ml/100 litres of water and apply when pests are first seen. When monitoring indicates high numbers of pests are present, a cluster of 2-4 sprays at 7-10 day intervals may be necessary to achieve optimal control.
Mites and leaf mining flies: Use 500 ml/100 litres of water and apply 2-4 sprays at 7-10 day intervals.
1 and 5 litres.

Nemashield 100 million unit Nematodes BIOWORKS
Vendor: BIOWORKS INC
*Order by 12 noon ET on day of shipping--FedEx Next Day
Active Ingredient: Steinernema feltiae
Beneficial nematode for the control of fungus gnat larvae as a drench. Western flower thrips control from a soil surface treatment has been demonstrated. 100 million nematodes treat 2200-3400 sq. ft. for fungus gnat larvae control depending on pest pressure.
MOA = NC
REI = 0

- The predators are released by opening the lid and sprinkling the contents of the bottle on the leaves of the host plants, preferably in a shady area.
- The predators should be distributed evenly through the crop, on the foliage, with additional material at the end of the rows and in hotter/drier areas prone to spider mite attack.
- Do not expose the bottles to direct sunlight.
Before combining BioCalifornicus with any chemical pesticide in the crop, please consult your BioBee technical field representative.
Recommended storage temperature
Do not store in sunlight
Apply early morning or late afternoon
Roll back and forth before use
Apply within 24 hours
BioBee Sde Eliyahu Ltd. produces and markets biological products. Production is carried out using innovative techniques under controlled quality assurance standards such as ISO 9001:2015, as well as IOBC’s international standards for mass-production of insects. All products are tested to meet specification requirements before leaving the factory.
The success of biological pest control is affected by the crop’s initial pest population (upon application of the product), weather conditions and chemical residue present in the crop, among other possible aggravating factors.
Under no circumstance shall BioBee be liable for the outcome of the implementation in the field, as it has no control over local conditions, the application method, or the possible improper treatment/storage of the product.

Then irrigate again immediately after application.
Tenet WP is not compatible with the following fungicides: imazalil, dichloran, mancozeb, propiconazole, tebuconazole, thiram, and triflumizole. Do not tank mix with, or apply Tenet WP within 3 days before or after use of these products.
DILUTION INFORMATION –
To prepare a suspension, combine 1 lb. of Tenet WP for every 1.25 gallons of water, and mix from time to time in order to promote the germination of conidia and obtain faster soil colonization. Subsequently, dilute the suspension in the amount of water needed per crop-specific applications on the label under the DOCS tab.
SOILBORNE/SEEDLING DISEASE CONTROL –
Can be applied using the following application methods: cutting and bare root, broadcast, in-furrow, banded, greenhouse and nursery drench, and applications made via chemigation systems applied over the row or directed towards the desirable plants crown and rooting area, either before planting, at planting, or shortly after planting and promptly watered in. For in-depth, specific instructions on these methods, please refer to the manufacturer's label under the DOCs tab.
Do not apply directly to water, or to areas where surface water is present or to intertidal areas below the mean high water mark. Do not contaminate water when cleaning equipment or disposing of equipment washwaters or rinsate.
This product may pose a risk to beneficial coleopteran (beetle) species.

Entomopathogenic nematodes have proven to be at least as effective as chemicals and therefore, their use is highly recommended.
Written by: Robert Childs

This is our most effective control for aphids in enclosed spaces and greenhouses and is favoured by commercial growers.
Aphidius are the most popular, and least expensive way of controlling common aphids, which is why they are the first choice for the commercial grower. Aphidius colemani tend to tackle the smaller aphids such as Myzus persicae and Aphis gossypii - for larger aphids there are Aphidius ervi.
Sold in tubes of 500, all our prices include P&P. Orders placed by 10am Monday will be despatched later in the week.
How much do I need?
When to use
How to use
Aphidius are tiny insects which lay their eggs inside aphids, the aphid is then paralysed and the new aphidius hatches from the body leaving behind a dead aphid “mummy”. The insects are supplied ready to hatch out in their “mummy” form. You will probably not be able to see the mummies without a glass or microscope, but if it is warm enough you will see some adult aphidius flying out of the tube when you open it. They look like very small flying ants, about 2-4mm long.
The tube will contain the mummies, some inert carrier for protection and possibly a few ready hatched flying adults.
1 predator per 2 square metres per week. Increase to 5 predators per square metre if small aphid colonies are present.
Use at the very first signs of aphids being present or as a preventative measure on aphid prove plants. Work better above 15°C.
Do not open the bottle until you are near the plants as hatched adults may fly out! Open the bottle and gently sprinkle the husks on the plants to be protected and then leave the tube on the soil so that any remaining aphidius can fly away.
It does not matter if the husks fall off the leaves onto the soil or bench. However, try to avoid sprinkling onto an area which may get disturbed by cultivation or watering. Alternatively, if you are treating a very small area, you can just lay the tube on its side with the top open and let the insects fly out themselves when hatched.
If you can’t put the Aphidius out straight away you need to keep them cool to stop them all from hatching out and dying through lack of food.

Apply 1 gal of mix to each 350 sq ft.
To control powdery mildew on CUCUMBERS and SQUASH, spray when powdery mildew appears and repeat as necessary. Do not spray young plants. Apply 1 gal of mix to each 600 sq ft.
To control powdery mildew on STRAWBERRIES, spray when disease appears and repeat as necessary. Do not spray young plants or apply to strawberries that will be used for canning. May be used up to the day before harvest.
To control powdery mildew on GRAPES, thoroughly cover foliage. Begin when new shoots are 6-10 inches. Repeat before blooms open and at 14 day intervals as needed. CAUTION: Do not apply to wine grapes within 21 days of harvest. Sulfur may damage concord and other labrusca varieties.
Home Greenhouse Application:
SHAKE WELL before use.
To control powdery mildew, leaf spot and rust on bedding plants, propagates, fruits and vegetables:
Mix 1 part concentrate to 30 parts water (8 tbsp. per gal) and apply according to above recommendations by crop type. Test for phytotoxicity before full-scale application.
- Some plants are susceptible to injury from sulfur under certain climatic conditions.
- Do not apply on Boston fern, spinach, apricot, filberts, walnuts, and viburnum.
- Do not apply when temperature exceeds 85 degrees F.
- Do not apply for at least 4 weeks following application of an oil spray or within 4 days of other pesticides.
- Be sure to wash and rinse spray equipment thoroughly after each use.
- Do not allow mixed spray to stand in spray equipment.
- Avoid contact with plants until spray has dried.
Storage and Disposal:
Storage: Store only in original container in a cool, dry area inaccessible to children and pets. Protect from freezing and heat. Keep container closed tightly to prevent evaporation.
Disposal: Non-refillable container. Do not reuse or refill this container. If empty, place in trash or offer for recycling if available. If partly filled, call your local solid waste agency for disposal instructions. Never place unused product down any indoor or outdoor drain.
Plant Disease Control - FAQs
Q: How do I know if my plant is being attacked by an insect or a disease?

Unlike a pesticide application, nematodes are alive, will move with time throughout the field, and will persist for many years. Farming activities that involve the movement of soil throughout the field enhance the natural movement of these biocontrol nematodes.
Treating Part or All of a Field: Application Rate Options
- Farmers have the option to treat all of their acreage directly with the persistent biocontrol nematodes for faster results. The approach is similar to a pesticide application where nematodes are applied to entire fields in application streams every two ft. (2’). However, we recommend utilizing the skip nozzle method to reduce costs and allow natural movement of the nematodes to fill in the areas where nematodes were not applied.
- Natural movement includes the physical dispersal of the nematodes, movement of infected insects before they die, and the movement of soil with nematodes to other parts of the field during farming practices.
- Nozzles applying nematodes spaced every six ft. (6’) will allow only every third nozzle to apply nematodes allowing for 33% of the field actually being treated at a cost savings. Some farms have further reduced costs by applying nematodes to 16% of the field by spacing the stream nozzles 10 ft. (10’) apart.
- Full field application and the 33% application rate are recommended for fields with large to moderate ASB populations whereas the 16% application rate is best used for fields with low insect pressure.
Biocontrol Sprayer Requirements
Please refer to the sprayer requirement manual which provides the necessary steps and timing for your application of nematodes. Also see 2022 NNYADP project results for updated information and formulation.
- Biocontrol nematodes used for control of alfalfa snout beetle are easily applied through slightly modified commercial pesticide sprayers. In field trials, application equipment varied from large commercial pesticides sprayers with all screens and filters removed and nozzles changed to fertilizer steam nozzles (006-0015), smaller sprayers with open nozzle bodies dribbling a stream of water, and farm-made gravity-dispersed applications composed of water tank and a pipe with holes in it onboard a farm gator.
- When applying nematodes, enough water needs to be used to penetrate the plant canopy and deposit the nematodes on the soil surface so they can enter the soil profile.

third instar larvae or adult mealybugs.
- To apply the product, remove the lid, expose the double sided adhesive surface of the label (to protect the contents of the package from ants) and place the bottle in a shady place, protected from rain or dew, preferably close to a mealybug-infested spot. Following their emergence, the wasps will fly out of the bottle and disperse in between the plants. Do not sprinkle the mummies actively from the bottle.
- If ants are present at the mealybug hotspots, they must be destroyed. Ants encourage honeydew secretion by the mealybugs, transfer them from one place to another and protect them by actively interfering with the parasitoid.
- BioAnagyrus is shipped in temperature controlled styrofoam boxes which must be kept intact until reaching the end-user.
- Keep the product at room temperature (not refrigerated!) until emergence has started (appearance of a few dozen parasitic wasps). Avoid direct exposure of the product to sunlight!!!
- Two-three weeks following BioAnagyrus release (depending upon temperature), mummified mealybugs can be clearly detected. The subsequent established generations of the parasitoid will effectively control the mealybugs in the longer run.
- BioAnagyrus introduction rate should be determined according to the nature of the crop and rate of mealybug infestation.
All products are tested to meet specification requirements before leaving the factory.
BioBee is not responsible for the outcome of implementation in the field, as it has no control over the method of application, local conditions, treatment/storage of product not according to instructions, etc.

The contents are gently shaken onto leaves throughout the greenhouse or placed on the rock wool block or growing media in contact with the plant stem. Upon receipt active predators should be visible at the top of containers at room temperature.
· Slow release bags, containing approximately 30 mL (1/8 cup) of carrier with predators and a food source. The bags act as miniature breeding units and are hung on plants throughout the greenhouse. Over four weeks, each bag can produces over 1000 predators under good conditions.
Relatively high introduction rates are required because thrips can reproduce nearly twice as fast as Cucumeris, and Cucumeris only feeds on immature thrips, not adults.
General Introduction Rates
· 10-100 Cucumeris/ plant, weekly, as needed.
· As a starter culture for young plants, place 25 Cucumeris/plant at the base of the stem at soon as they are planted out in the greenhouse.
Using the Bulk Product
· Greenhouse peppers – 10 Cucumeris/plant. This is sufficient early in the growing season if pollen is available as an alternate food source.
· Greenhouse cucumbers – 50-100 Cucumeris/plant, weekly, until the percentage of leaves with predators is greater than that with thrips.
· Greenhouse tomatoes – 25 Cucumeris/plant, weekly, for two weeks, when thrips are detected.
Using Slow release bags
· Greenhouse cucumbers – 1 bag/5 plants every 1-2 weeks, until there is 1 bag/plant in infested areas
· Interior plantscapes – 1 bag/large plant, every 6-8 weeks
Hang bags within 25 cm (10 inches) of the growing point on greenhouse crops, ensuring good contact with the stem and leaves. Bags should not be exposed to direct sunlight or overhead watering.
Establishment of Cucumeris requires 4-8 weeks, so it should be applied before thrips problems develop. Because Cucumeris feed only on immature thrips stages, a decrease in adult thrips populations will not occur for about 3 weeks.
For Best Results
· Where Persimilis is being used for control of spider mite, avoid heavy applications of Cucumeris. Cucumeris feed on spider mite eggs, which may limit the food supply for immature Persimilis and reduce their effectiveness.

NemaKnights Ant Attack
Are you tired of finding ants in your home or anthills in your driveway, sidewalk, and interlock? It might be time to take some control with the Nemaknight Ant Attack pearls. Nemaknights Biological Ant Attack allows for a convenient spot treatment solution that makes controlling anthills much more efficient. Simply flip open the cap, shake the pearls into the anthills and surrounding area, and spray with water!
Based on encapsulated S.feltiae nematodes. 6-month stable shelf life, with extended slow release to control of larval soil pests. For outdoor use. Environmentally sustainable, exclusive organic formulation and 100% pesticide free. No refrigeration required.
Target pests include: common black ants, common red ants, leatherjackets and thrips. 280g package treats approximately 20 ant hills, or ~215sq.ft.

Q. It seems no matter what brand of potting soil, I have to bake it before I can use it. If I don't, I get hundreds of tiny flies that hatch and swarm. I put out water to catch and drown them. I spray insect oil on top of the soil several times a day. I'm so afraid I'll kill the plants.
A. Yes, fungus gnats in particular are a big problem in potting soils used for houseplants. The younger generations feed off of both decaying plants and soft, succulent living roots. They aren’t very particular about what they feed on, living or dead, so long as it is soft, juicy and tender.
If fungus gnats are extremely happy in their environment they will multiply very rapidly and cause poor growth and stunting. Besides, they are pesky and a nuisance inside the house. If potting soil is sterilized by the manufacturer using a heat treatment it should kill all of the fungus gnats and should pose no problem.
Control fungus gnats with organic pest control products such as beneficial nematodes that go after their destructive larvae and a bacterium is also available with a similar result. You should be able to find these products in your local nursery or garden center.
Yellow or blue sticky traps also work. I received this video on how to make yellow sticky traps from a friend.
Another effective method is to sterilize this potting soil yourself by placing it, moistened, into a clear plastic bag and let it bake in the sun. Temperatures need to get up to about 160 F for at least 30 minutes for good control.
Another option is to apply pyrethrin sprays to the soil and water it in.

In laboratory two-container choice experiments, H. aureus were repelled by EPN treated areas for up to 10 days at 10,000 IJs per device. The repellency threshold was found to vary among nematodes species. We hypothesis that it is the physical movement of the nematodes that repels the termites. Temperature is a key factor affecting nematode pathogenicity. Temperature tolerance of the nematodes varied between species. After a gradual heat adaptation process, S. riobrave and H. bacteriophora caused significantly higher H. aureus mortality at 32 °C compared with original laboratory cultured strains. Further work may result in the contribution of commercially available strains with enhanced heat tolerance. Preliminary field studies confirmed EPN protection of a structure, however, termites began to reinfest 4 weeks after the application. Additional tests are necessary to provide more evidence before we can conclude nematodes as useful in the field.

Nemasys® Vine Weevil Killer is a perishable, living product, so it must be used before the expiry date (which is marked on the inside of the pack and will be at least 2 weeks) and should be stored in the fridge until it is needed. It is delivered by 1st class post and should be popped in the fridge as soon as possible (they are fine on the doormat while you are at work).
Video: Nemasys Vine Weevil Larvae Pest & Damage Identification
Video: Applying Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer Nematodes
Can't see an answer to your question? Please contact us and we will be happy to assist you.

Control By Pest
A Bugs Blog
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS: This product is easy to use -- just mix 4 oz. of powder with one gallon of water and you are good to cover at least 3,000 square feet!
Earthworm Castings - Natural Soil Amendment
Good Bug Habitat & Attractant Seed Mix
Live Red Worms
Uncle Dave's Worm Chow - 1 lb.

The bacteria are stored in peat, and as this is a living culture, it must be treated with care. It
should be stored in the fridge and used within 3 months. Do not separate from the seed packet as the inoculant
attached is specific to the individual legume. To use, moisten the seed with a small amount of milk or water and stir
in the inoculant until seeds are coated. Do not inoculate the seed until you are ready to sow it and do not leave
the inoculated seed in the sun.

Use of our archaea microbes fosters balance in the ecosystem rather that creating distortions and imbalance. It's the same idea as what antibiotic exposure does to human bodies, killing off good bacteria along with the harmful bacteria. Our microbes simply crowd out the contaminating pollutants by overtaking their food source so they die-off or are eliminated naturally. At the end of their lifespan, our archaea die too, and the area being treated will return to former natural levels of locally indigenous microbes, with balance restored.
19. What is the measurement for dosage or application?
It will vary according to the specific situation. As a typical example for remediation of surface soils, 10 pounds (5Kg) will treat 100 square meters. If you are treating cubic yards of contaminated soils (soil pile) 1Kg (roughly 2 pounds) typically will treat 2 cubic meters (roughly 1 cubic yard). For marshes and wetlands, it can be typically 1 lb of microbe formula mixed with 50 gals of water or seawater and sprayed on 200 square feet. For open water application such as lakes or oceans, 1,000 lbs can treat 1 square mile, with higher concentration applied in focused applications on sheens. (For more information, see “What is the application method” notes above.)
20. What application dosage is appropriate for stagnant water or water tanks?
A typical benchmark or starting point is 1 lb per 200 cubic feet, but that is adjusted according to the specifics of the situation, such as type and concentrations of pollutants, existence of solids and/or vegetation, etc.
21. Are there different formulations of the product, and different pricing for those?
Yes, there are three different strengths. Depending on the application specifics, sometimes the microbes should be supplemented with nutrients or biocatalysts as well. We will help you match the right products to what your specific situation requires.
22. How do I store the inactivated product and what is the shelf life of the microbe powder?
The archaea microbes in their powder form, before they are activated, have a shelf life of 5 years. This is much longer than many competing products.
23. How are the microbes manufactured?
Because microbes are living beings they are not manufactured but instead are grown or cultivated.

Storing unused pesticides can be a troubling situation for home gardeners. Frequently asked questions include: Where can I keep them? Is it safe? Will the pesticides last? What about my children and pets?
While buying in bulk might be good for dry goods and groceries, today the pesticide recommendation is to only purchase in the volume you expect to use in a single growing season, with an exception and there will always be one of those.
First, a bit of vocabulary is needed to understand the various product types that gardeners routinely buy and use in the home landscape and gardens:
Liquids – the active ingredients dissolve completely in water and no agitation during application is needed forming a true solution.
Emulsifiable concentrate – the active ingredient will dissolve in oil, but not in water and is later mixed with water for application.
Wettable Powders – a dry powder that does not dissolve, but held in suspension with agitation during application.
Dusts – active ingredient is placed on finely ground particles, applied by shaking the container or in a special applicator using air.
Gardeners should not attempt to keep mixed diluted sprays, but rather use them up on the target plants at the end of the growing season. The quality of the water from the spigot on the house can degrade the active ingredient and the spray next season will be ineffective in managing the target pest.
Liquids and emulsifiable concentrates must be kept above freezing to prevent separation and potentially bursting the container. Freezing temperatures will not harm dusts and wettable powders. In general, the best storage conditions will be to keep the unused concentrates in a cool and dry location. Dry for the wettable powders and dusts so they do not absorb moisture and clump or cake up. If enough moisture is present, the active ingredient or other additives may cause the product to be ineffective.
Storage locations could be a garage that stays above freezing or in the basement away from any heat sources. In terms of safety, a lockable cabinet is preferred over a shelf. If it is a shelf, make it out of reach of children and pets.
The exception I noted at the top of this column relates to how long we can keep a product in concentrated form. Wettable powders often used in a home orchard with more than just a few fruit trees can be kept several seasons if stored properly during the growing season and winter storage.

They have a natural thirst for caterpillars, grubs, rootworms, gnats, beetles, and many more. Due to this, nematodes offer an amazing solution to pest problems.
These little worms work much in the same way that ticks do. They find themselves a host and work their way into the body through orifices. Once inside, the worm will feed on their host. Once inside, nematodes will also release a potent bacteria. This will kill the pest within 24 – 48 hours, making quick work of your infestations. Japanese beetles may have a thick shell, but even they can’t stop an internal sneak attack.
Using Nematodes in the Garden:
Nematodes are naturally occurring in many soils, but they may not be there if you have pests. Due to this, many garden centres have brought in packaged nematodes that you can apply to your own garden. These packages are usually stored cold to keep the worms sleeping and fresh to work their best.
First, make sure your soil is warm and moist. The warmth will help to thaw out the cold sleep and moisture helps them move in the soil. Keep the soil moist throughout the application and treatment process for best results.
Mix your treatment in water to make it easier to apply. Many have found that letting it soak for a bit before mixing helps to break it up. Spray or drench the affected area with treatment and allow it to soak the soil. Shortly after they have woken up, your nematodes will sense their prey and start to work. When the pests are gone, nematodes will die off. No clean-up required.
With their invincible nature, many gardeners have stressed over Japanese beetles in their gardens. Nematodes, however, make their way under that tough exterior and the beetles are no match for them. Make quick work of the unkillable with a little, natural worm that is happy to do the work for you!

Fill one of the 50 ml tubes with approximately 20 ml of water.
3. Wet the brush in deionized water and use it to wipe worms off the top of a culture. Swish the brush in the water in the 50 ml tube until the worms fall off.
4. Repeat until enough worms are obtained or until the top is devoid of worms. If more worms are needed, wipe them from the sides of the box or from a new box.
5. Dump the worms that have been collected in the tube onto the sieve on top of the other tube.
6. Add more water to the first tube and wash remaining worms onto the sieve.
7. Fill the second tube with additional water until the level just reaches the bottom of the sieve. Live worms will wiggle through the sieve into the water, dead worms and pieces of food are retained and should be discarded.
8. Let the live worms settle to the bottom (5‑15 min).
9. Remove the worms from the bottom of the tube with a Pasteur pipette and transfer to a small tube for distribution to the fish tanks.
10. Live worms can be maintained for extended periods in the large or small tubes without any problems.

Do not apply this product in the following counties where endangered beetles have been found:
||Logan, Sebastian, Franklin, Scott, Little River
||Elk, Wilson, Montgomery, Chatauqua
||Cherry, Brown, Keya Paha, Rock, Holt, Boyd, Thomas, Blaine, Loup, Garfield, Wheeler, Boone, Antelope, Lincoln, Dawson, Lancaster
||Osage, Craig, Rogers, Tulsa, Wagoner, Cherokee, Muskogee, Sequoyah, McIntosh, Haskell, Latimer, Le Flore, Pittsburg, Atoka, Pushmataha, McCurtain, Choctaw, Bryan, Johnston, Coal, Hughes, Okfuskee, Creek, Okmulgee, Mayes, Nowata, Ottawa, Washington, Delaware, Adair
||Washington (on Block Island)
||Tripp, Gregory, and Todd
||Red River, Lamar
Do not contaminate water, food, or feed through storage or disposal. Store at temperatures below 75°F, under well-vented and dry storage conditions. Do not store under moist conditions. Do not allow product to freeze. Store the tightly resealed container in a dry place and not exposed directly to sun. Product life is approximately 15 months when stored as directed.
This product can be sold in all 50 states but should not be used in certain counties in Arkansas, Kansas, Nebraska, Oklahoma, Rhode Island, South Dakota and Texas due to the danger it poses to certain beneficial beetle species. Prior to purchase, please read the Environment section under the Instructions tab or refer to the Environmental Hazards section of the label (under the DOCS tab) if you are in one of these states.
Warning & Toxicities:
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. HAZARDS TO HUMANS AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS. Harmful if absorbed through skin or swallowed. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating, drinking, chewing gum, using tobacco, or using the toilet. Remove and wash contaminated clothing before reuse. Wear waterproof gloves.
Shelf Life: Approximately 15 months when stored as directed.

Can be used on the following crops: Alfalfa, Bedding Plants, Berries, Bushberries, Caneberries, Cereal Grains, Citrus, Clover, Cole Crops, Corn, Cotton, Cucurbits, Flowering Plants, Fodder, Forage, Fruiting Vegetables, Ginseng, Grass, Hay, Herbaceous Potted Flowers, Herbs, Leafy Vegetables (Except Brassica), Legume Vegetables, Olive, Onions, Ornamentals, Ornamental Bulbs, Peanuts, Pineapple, Pome Fruit, Pomegranate, Root/Tuber/Corm Vegetables, Stone Fruit, Sunflower, Tobacco, Trees, Tree Nuts, Tropical Foliage, Tropical Fruits, Turf Grass, Vines and more. For a complete list of crops and crop-specific applications and use rates, please refer to the manufacturer's label under the DOCs tab.
Shop all Blacksmith BioScience products here.
This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases: Armillaria spp., Fusarium spp., Phytophthora spp., Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia spp., Rosellinia spp., Sclerotinia spp., Sclerotium rolfsii, Thielaviopsis basicola, and Verticillium spp.
Tenet is especially effective in preventing fungal pathogen attacks. For this reason, it is essential that it is applied and allowed to colonize an area before fungal pathogens have had a chance to establish.
- Should be applied up to 7 days before planting to initiate soil colonization before the crop is planted and reapplied after planting.
- For maximum effectiveness, apply 2 or more applications.
- May be applied throughout the crop production cycle in order to maintain a high colonization of the root zone.
- Do not apply by aircraft.
- Apply when the soil temperature is at least 50°F (10°C).
- Apply to moist soil or growth media, but not to saturated or waterlogged soil. Soil or growth media must remain moist after application to provide adequate control of soilborne fungal diseases.
- May be applied to sterilized or fumigated soil but must be applied after the sterilizing agent or fumigant has dissipated.
- Tenet WP has no curative effect and therefore is not effective against plants infected with disease at the time of application.
- In case of applications on or to dry soils, pre-irrigate until soil is moist.

Effective Micro-Organisms (EM)
What is EM
Ceramics & Water
Plastic Tanks & Ponds
The Aquatic Environment
Ultrasonic Algae Control
Ultrasonic Algae Products
Poultry & Game
DOWNLOADS & LINKS
This is EM in it's dormant state and is how it is sold.
It is available in 1 & 10 litre containers.
EM-1 will keep for up to 12 months if unopened and kept in a cool dark place.
When opened, it should be used within 3 months.
It is totally harmless, even if consumed.
Unless environmental conditions are ideal (especially temperature +25C), EM-1 used on it's own will take a long time to become effective and besides, this is not the most economic way of applying it. The best way to use EM-1 is to 'activate' it - the resultant product is called EM-A (Activated-EM), which can than then be further diluted with water.
Making EM-A is done by mixing EM-1 with molasses (which must be sugar cane and not sugar beet molasses) and water and allowing them to ferment in a sealed vessel for 7 days at @ +25 centigrade.
1 litre of EM-1 will produce 20 litres of EM-A, which can then be further diluted 1:100 with water i.e. 200 litres of usable product!
EM fermenters are availed in a variety of sizes: 30, 60, 120, 220 and 1000 litre sizes.

How to order Beneficial Nematodes: All nematodes are not the same. Buglogical nematodes are more tolerant of high tempertures than any other brands. It is best to order biological control nematodes and have them delivered directly to you from a reliable source.. This helps insure that the nematodes you are buying are still alive. Nematodes do not live very long in storage. Therefore, buying nematodes that are stocked on a store shelf is very risky.
Suppliers: Buglogical Control Systems, Inc. PO Box 32046, Tucson, AZ 85751-2046 Phone: 520-298-4400
Bedding, R.A. and L.A. Miller. 1981. Use of a Nematode, Heterorhabditis heliothidis to Control Black Vine Weevil, Otiorhynchus sulcatus, in Potted Plants.Ann.Appl.Biol. 99:211-216.
Davidson, J.A., S.A. Gill, and M.J. Raupp. 1992. Controlling Clearwing Moths with Entomopathogenic Nematodes: The Dogwood Borer Case Study. J. of Arboriculture. 18(2):81-84.
Georgis, R. and G.O. Poinar. 1989. Field Effectiveness of Entomophilic Nematodes Neoaplectana andHeterorhabditis.Pages 213-224, In A.R. Leslie and R.L. Metcalf (eds.). Integrated Pest Management for Turfgrass and Ornamentals.United States Environmental Protection Agency, Washington, DC.
Gill, S., J.A. Davidson, and M.J. Raupp. 1992. Control of Peachtree Borer Using Entomopathogenic Nematodes. J. of Arboriculture.18(4):184-187
Kaya, H.K. 1985.Entomogenous Nematodes for Insect Control in IPM Systems. Pages 283-303, In M.A. Hoy and D.C. Herzog (eds.).Biological Control in Agricultural IPM Systems,New York: Academic Press.
Kaya, H.K. and L.R. Brown.

How to clean:Should preferably be observed for obvious signs of infestation; worms may develop when stored in warm areas.
The presence of infestation is much more prevalent during the warm summer months. Store these items in a cool, dry place or, when possible, refrigerated.
When properly stored, it is unusual to find worms in these products especially those made in Canada and the USA. If worms are found, the entire box or bag must be carefully sifted or checked on a white paper plate before use.

This is good, you have completed the process.
12. Sterilize the
needle again with the alcohol soaked paper towel, replace the needle guard and
place the syringe back into your clean zip-lock bag.
13. Allow the
syringe to sit for no less than 12 hours before using in microscopy application
or inoculation for edible varieties. The older the print used, the more
"dehydrated" the spores will become. For proper microscopy observation or
germination, the spores will need to be allowed to rehydrate.

A lid is unnecessary provided that the sides of the container are clean and it is stored where it won't be knocked over, preferably on a cool, concrete floor. mealworms fed on Progrub are likely to be more nutritious and will be gut loaded with calcium. It is not necessary to feed carrot, potato peelings, apple etc to full sized or Giant mealworms. However, this vegetable nutrition should be provided to Mini mealworms for moisture. Over-feeding should be avoided as this encourages mites.
Bulk mealworms must be unpacked on arrival. The shipping container can be placed in a refrigerator for an hour or two in warm weather before unpacking to slow the mealworms down. To prevent escape, open the bag or box outdoors and tip the contents into a large plastic bucket or dustbin. Shake the mealworms off the crumpled newspaper taking care to hold the paper below the rim of the bucket. The mealworms are then ready to be transferred to their storage container.
Mealworms don't come any fresher than those supplied by Livefoods Direct.
The mealworms are taken straight from the fattening rooms where they are then prepare for sale to ensure maximum freshness. Only a breeder has such total control over product and is thus able to guarantee both quality and freshness.
Mealworms are available in clear plastic tubs for easy feeding and storage or you can buy mealworms in bulk sacks which is more economical
We stock the following Mealworms:-
To visit our online store, click below
The Livefoods Direct team is highly skilled and committed to maintaining a high level of quality and service, giving you, the customer, the best deals possible.
Live Mealworms | Dreid Mealworms | Bulk Mealworms | Save on Mealworms

Revive Soil Improver
Treatment of soil with Revive should help restore the natural balance and give healthier crops.
Where the soil is cropped intensively the balance of micro-organisms changes, an increase in organisms can cause specific disease problems or 'Soil Sickness'.
Revive should always be diluted before use. Use the diluted product within 48 hours.
For treatment of soil or composts dilute 25mls of Revive in 2 litres of water. New compost and growbags should be watered with Revive at planting.
Fruit and vegetable beds should be treated in the Spring and Autumn. 25mls of Revive (diluted as above) will treat up to 25sq. metres. Individual plants may also be watered at the roots.
Treat lawns Spring and Autumn, using 25mls of Revive diluted per 10sq. metres.
As a dip treatment, dilute 25mls of Revive with 0.5 litres of water.
Plant roots, bulbs, tubers, corms and seeds may be dipped before planting.
Delivery just £4.98 per order*!
Free Delivery if just ordering nematodes
*Additional charges may apply to certain orders in highlands and islands, if so this will be applied in the checkout

These are dry ingredients, hence, it is advisable to mix as far as possible and use mild fungicides to prevent further spreading. Benefits of Nematodes As mentioned above nematodes that are parasitic on insects and difficult to maintain, proceed with container gardening.

Normally, A solitary 20cc spore syringe can be used to dominate 6 litres of substratum or roughly 13 canning containers.
Simply how Do You Store Spore Syringes?
Did you recognize that, maintained the optimal temperature, your Malabar spore syringe can last for a minimum of year? To obtain one of one of the most out of your spore syringe, keep the product covered in light-proof material, such as light weight aluminum foil. For finest results, leave it in the refrigerator, around 2C-8C. Never put continuing to be spore service in the fridge freezer; the deep cold will absolutely make the spores ineffective.

(Source: B. Trevarrow from Zebrafish Book 5th Edition)
Microworms are a live food that some labs are using instead of brine shrimp. Here is a method for raising microworms adapted from techniques used in fly labs.
- Clean plastic boxes with snap on lids (Tupperware‑like)
- Oatmeal (rolled oats or porridge)
- A spoon for stirring the oatmeal
- Deionized water
- 10% methyl‑p‑hydroxybenzoate (also known as Tegosept or Nipagin-M, fungus inhibitor) in 95% EtOH
- A productive strain of micro worms (commercially available through hobbyist magazines)
- A clean Pasteur pipette
- A clean, long handled paint brush with a brush approximately 1 x 2.5 cm
- Two 50 ml plastic 'Falcon'‑like tubes and a sieve that fits into the top of one of the tubes
Establishing the worm cultures
1. Make up the oatmeal in the approximate proportions of 150 ml of oatmeal to 400 ml of distilled water. The proportions should be adjusted to give a thick but not overly firm consistency.
2. Soak the oatmeal for about 5‑10 minutes, then boil in a double boiler for about 5‑10 minutes (until the oatmeal is evenly thick from the top to the bottom).
3. Remove the oatmeal from the heat and add 2.8 ml of 10% methyl‑p‑hydroxybenzoate in 95% EtOH for every 400 ml of oatmeal mixture, to yield a final concentration of 0.07%. Stir and pour into the clean plastic boxes. After the mixture cools, add an aliquot of microworms.
4. Check the new cultures in about a week for worms. They should be climbing out of the culture onto the sides of the container or squirming visibly in the culture medium. Some cultures may take longer to produce a good crop of worms. If they do not produce worms by the second week, rinse and bleach the containers before reusing. Old cultures that no longer produce worms should be discarded and the containers washed and bleached before reuse.
Harvesting worm cultures
1. Select box(es) to be harvested.
2.

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in Problem solving
Hi all! I have just emptied a trough and found many vine weevil grubs in it. I have been checking the soil and squishing any grubs I found this afternoon (quite theraputic!). It seems a shame to throw away the soil and I was planning on spreading it on an empty bed that won't be planted up till the end of May. Is this a great way to spread the problem around my garden, or are they likely to be eaten or die before I use the soil again?
I would spread soil on a tray of some sort ...in theory birds will devour them but they could bury themselves in garden soil
Spread the soil out on a plastic sheet and let the birds have a go. If it was me I would then apply Vine Weevil Killer (to be sure to be sure) before tipping it onto ane mpty bed. I'd dig it in a week later.
If you are not into killing bees by using Neonicotinoids (Vine Weevil Killer) then spread the soil out thinly and go over it with a Weed Wand (Flame gun type thing) or try as we used to do, using a steam wall paper stripper. It sterilises the compost very nicely.
Berghill, do you mean that the weevil neonicotinoids kills bees? Ive never head that before
You could microwave it, should zap any lurking unhatched eggs too.
Yes, Provado and other nicotinoid-containing products are now strongly believed to be a cause of colony collapse in the honey bee and the cause of damage to other pollinating insects.
Thanks for all that information everyone! Has anyone used nematodes, and if so, did it work?
There is a concern that neonicotinoids cause bees to get disorientated and lose their way back to the hive. However, treating pots with Vine Weevil Killer is highly unlikely to impact on bees. The main impact is when chemicals such as Provado Ultimate Bug Killer are sprayed directly onto plants, especially onto flowers when bees are active. also Vine Weevil Killer contains a neonicotinoid, and if applied to the soil in a pot holding a flowering plant, a small amount could be carried up the pollen.

Remember the plants will have to live their whole lives where you put the gemmae so space them how you want them to be forever. Put them closer if you like a mass planting, farther apart if you like to see the full form of each individual plant.
At this point you can lightly spray the soil surface with water to settle in the gemmae, or...
sprinkle a thin layer of sand over the soil surface before spraying with water. I prefer putting the sand over the gemmae to hold them in place and to keep them from drying out. If you immediately put the pots into a terrarium this step is not necessary. These pots are destined to be outside.
Note this is a 5 inch (13 cm) square #1 nursery pot. This pot is not too big. It is like the one the mother plants are in.
Chances are you will have more gemmae than you have room for plants. The solution is to send the extras to your friends.
To mail gemmae I put them in damp paper towels in small plastic bags. I use the blue shop towels because they are heavier weight and do not mold as easily as kitchen paper towels. I cut each towel into nine squares.
You need the paper towels to be damp. Get them wet then squeeze out the excess water. Do not get heroic squeezing out the water but do squeeze them. Then put the gemmae in the middle of the towel square.
I have had people send me gemmae in a plastic bag with nothing and with a dry paper towel. The gemmae were dead on arrival. Remember these are little plants.
Fold the paper towel in thirds.
Turn it over and fold it in thirds again. This will give the gemmae maximum protection.
Put the folded paper towel with gemmae in a clearly labeled plastic bag for shipping in a padded envelope or small box.
If you still have gemmae left over, toss them into pots of other plants. These Drosera scorpioides are growing with Drosophyllum lusitanicum, a non-bog plant.
-- John Brittnacher

In fact , the very best time to control white grubs is in the spring and fall. If your in a warmer climate, beneficial nematodes are most effective in the summer.
Fertilizers should be avoided roughly 2 weeks prior to and after nematode application, because they may be adversely affected by high nitrogen content.
Some pesticides work well with nematodes when their mutual exposure is limited while other pesticides may kill nematodes. Check labels or specific fact sheets to find out. Some chemicals to avoid are bendiocarb, chlorpyrifos, ethoprop, and isazophos. Fungicides to avoid are anilazine, dimethyl benzyl, ammonium chloride, fenarimol, and mercurous chloride. The herbicides, 2,4-D and trichlopyr and nematicide, fenamiphos, should be avoided as well.
During hot weather release nematodes in the evening or afternoon when temperature is cooler. Release once or twice a year or until infestation subsides. Nematodes are shipped in the infectious larvae stage of their life cycle and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Always release very early in the morning or late in the late afternoon.
Why are these organisms beneficial?
Beneficial nematodes seek out and kill all stages of harmful soil-dwelling insects. They can be used to control a broad range of soil-inhabiting insects and above-ground insects in their soil-inhabiting stage of life.
Parasitic nematodes are beneficial for eliminating pest insects. First, they have such a wide host range that they can be used successfully on numerous insect pests. The nematodes' nonspecific development, which does not rely on specific host nutrients, allows them to infect a large number of insect species.
Nematodes enter pest bugs while they are still alive, then they multiply inside the bugs (which eventually die) and finally burst out of the dead bodies. The number of nematodes inside a single bug (depending on the species) ranges from 5,000 to 10,000. Although you can barely see one young nematode with your naked eye, large groups of these tiny wigglers pouring out of the dead insects are easy to see. Then the nematodes wriggle off to find other insects to "invade," starting the whole cycle all over again.

The recommended storage temperature is 5-10c. Store the tube in the dark on its side. The quicker you release them the more success you will have so don’t store for more than a day or two if possible.
Aphidius are most effective when temperatures are constantly above 15°C

For maximum efficiency, it may be necessary to increase the density of the placement around the perimeter.
- Monitor using wing-style or delta style traps and Obliquebanded & Pandemis Leafrollers lures to determine the best time for application. Trap placement should begin in early March/April to determine first flight and should continue throughout the season to help assess treatment effectiveness.
- Make the first application of NoMate LTX Spirals with 2-4 days after the first male moth is captured in a trap (biofix). Prediction Degree Day models can provide assistance in determining application timing. Model information and economic thresholds that may vary according to geographical regions are available from your county Farm Advisor.
- Second and any subsequent application should be timed such that the new application is made before the effect of the previous application significantly diminishes. Leafrollers life cycle models, diligent trapping and field checking are all important considerations in the proper timing of an additional spiral application.
Application Rate: 200-400 spirals per acre. Apply 1-3 times per year, or as needed.
Storage: So not contaminate water, food or feed through storage or disposal. Store in a cool place until used. Prolonged storage should be at or less than 45°F.
Available by special order only. Allow 1-2 weeks for delivery.
Cannot Be Shipped To: AL,AK,AZ,AR,CA,CO,CT,DE,DC,FL,GA,HI,ID,IL,IN,IA,KS,KY,LA,ME,MD,MA,MI,MN,MS,MO,MT,NE,NV,NH,NJ,NM,NY,NC,ND,OH,OK,PA,PR,RI,SC,SD,TN,TX,UT,VT,VA,WV,WI,WY
Warning & Toxicities: KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. HAZARDS TO HUMANS AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS. Caution: Harmful if absorbed through skin, inhaled or swallowed. Causes moderate eye irritation. Avoid contact with skin, eyes and clothing. Avoid breathing vapor. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating, drinking, chewing gum, using tobacco or using the toilet. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before re-use.

After 5 years at my current address, I have NO ants, NO grubs, NO ticks, my dog has NO fleas (and I do not use any chems on him either) And Yes I have lots of earthworms as well as the desirable microbial activity necessary to maintain the balance of the soil.
07-18-2006, 04:22 PM
Lawnchick -Sounds like you are very knowledgeable about the todes. How long do you think I should wait to apply if I have used Merit in the past? We are having some grub problems now and are about to contract with a pest guy to spray for them but I would prefer to go the green route. Duh I guess if the grubs are alive the todes will be fine. I have used Arbico in the past (out of Tucson) but their Todes come in a powder form and I have had mixed results. Where do you get yours? Thanks for the info and welcome to lawnsite.
07-18-2006, 04:32 PM
Here are a few web site for your info.
07-19-2006, 06:19 AM
Hopefully it has been a while since your last chemical application (6 wks), and if you use plenty of compost, the microbes should have done a pretty good job breaking it down. As for the sprayer, I would consider purchasing another one. The cheap ones have always worked fine for me. If that is not an option, rinse your existing sprayer with vinegar, no need to go after the 20% used as an herbicide, table vinegar will be perfect. Contact Hydro-Gardens, (http://www.hydro-gardens.com/guardian_lawn_patrol_nematodes.htm) for a fresh supply. They will overnight them in cold packs. The Guardian and Lawn Patrol varieties work best for me in here in South Texas for the insects we battle. Hydro-Gardens can reccommend a flavor for your parts. Thanks for the welcome!
07-19-2006, 10:33 AM
Thanks for sharing that web site...:waving:
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Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
By Nathalie L
from Tolland CT
Last time I applied the spores, I did not buy the tube. This year however, even though the reviews were saying it was nothing more than a cardboard tube, I purchased it. As a fact, yes, it is nothing more than a cardboard tube with a plastic filter at the bottom. So, indeed, I would not use it over wet grass, or in rainy weather, as it would surely deteriorate and clog-up. Having said that, I found it very useful: - For one thing it cleaner: It protected my pants and shirt from getting totally caked up in the spores.- Also, it saves time: It can be loaded with a larger volume of the spores, and there is less time spend re-loading it. Thank you !
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
This product is not well made
from Athens, PA
About Me Master Gardener
While you clearly need such an applicator to apply large amounts of milky spore, I was disappointed that the applicator end broke when I tried to open the tab. I ended up taping a make-shift end on the applicator and got all the product down. Just think it is really worth about $2.99.
from Omaha, NE
The applicator's distribution head fell out during use. It needs to be secured better. I finally wrapped tape around the cardboard tube and over the edges of the applicator head to hold it in place. It then worked fine.
Not so impressed
In all honesty, I have not used this product yet. However, I was extremely disappointed when I received it because it is nothing more than a sturdy cardboard tube with a plastic hole on the bottom. Not impressed. I rated it 3 stars only because I haven't used it yet....
This product is a winner for us
from Piperton, TN
The first time we bought this product was in 1999 and still have it. We have moved since we bought the first one & have a much bigger garden, but I find this applicator is still well suited for our needs. We not only have used it for the milky spore application, but for granule type applicatios, ie, herbicides, etc.

Nemastar - Steinernema carpocapsae
Entomopathogenic nematode, species Steinernema carpocapsae
Infective juveniles of a threadworm that parasitises a large variety of insect prey, especially beetles, cutworms (Agrotis spp.), and other moths. 100% safe to humans and pets.
The Pest – Greasy Cutworms
nemastar® contains "infective juveniles".
The caterpillars of the greasy cutworm cause damage to the emerging shoot by clipping it off at the ground, killing the developing plant. Greasy cutworms attack crops including pasture, brassicas, cereals and maize.
The Solution – nemastar®
The infective juveniles of nemastar® are ambush predators, and are most effective against mobile prey. Once caught, they crawl inside the prey through breathing spiracles or other orifices, release a beneficial bacteria to break down the pests internal organs, and feeds on the bacterial slurry. The nematodes then breed in the cadaver, which eventually breaks apart releasing more nematodes into the soil.
Greasy Cutworms - Agrotis ipsilon
Apply in the evening or during cloudy weather, the nematodes are very susceptible to UV and drying out. For optimum results, the soil should retain some moisture for several weeks.
Please seek the assistance of a crop scout or phone or email us directly for guidance. The advice above is indicative only, and more specific advice may be beneficial.
The nematodes are most infective when the media temperature is between 15 to 30°C. At higher and lower temperatures, nematode efficacy decreases.
Release and Storage Instructions

This post may contain affiliate links. Read the full disclosure here.
Another day, another way of defending ourselves from the onslaught of fungus gnats.
I’m pretty lucky in the whole fungus gnat department.
There was a time last spring when I couldn’t eat ANYTHING without one of the little buggers trying to get into my mouth (what part of vegan don’t they understand??).
Don’t even get me started on wine. Fungus gnats are crazy big drinkers.
But recently, they’ve been quiet.
Either their new year’s resolution was to keep to themselves a bit more, or my almost exclusively bottom watering regime has paid off.
I’m leaning towards the latter. If you want to read more about the benefit of bottom watering I have an article all about it here.
But I’m lucky. I have a big enough kitchen* to be able to set up a bottom watering station. A lot of us need to water from the top just for the sake of convenience, especially if we have a lot of plants.
The problem with top watering is that the top of the soil gets wet, which attracts fungus gnats. Gnats aren’t too much of a problem (unless you have a full-on infestation) but they’re irritating as hell.
Beneficial nematodes have been used to get rid of pests for yonks. I first heard about them when I watched this Betsy Begonia video, and thought I’d write a post based on my research, to provide a guide for those of you with a gnat problem.
*My kitchen is actually pretty small, but it’s an L shape, due to a tiny little extension that houses the freezer, washing machine and boiler. Also a worktop and a textured south-facing window. Perfect for plants.
What are beneficial nematodes?
Is everybody ready for a really long and gross word? Great. Beneficial nematodes used in plant care are two species of entomopathogenic nematodes commonly known as heterorhabditis and steinernema.
As well as fungus gnats, they’re used to control ants, fleas, moths, beetles, and weevils.
Imagine tiny weeny white worms. That’s pretty much what they look like.
How do beneficial nematodes reduce fungus gnat populations?
Prepare yourselves, because this bit’s gross.

Beneficial Insects & Organisms
Traps & Lures
Crawling Insect Control
Flying Insect Control
Tools & Equipment
Lawn Care / Weed Control
Water & Septic Treatment
Home & Commercial
Pest Problem Guide
How To Order
Ladybug Release Guidelines
- When Ladybugs arrive put the sack in a cool place (refrigerator) until late evening or early morning.
- Do not release the Ladybugs during the heat of the day or while the sun is shining.
- Ladybugs should be released when the plants have become partially enfoliated, which will provide coverage, and some pest insects are present, which will provide food.
- In order to achieve biological control of insects try to maintain a balance of a few pests for food and enough Ladybugs to keep them in check, being careful not to release to many Ladybugs at one time.
- Sprinkle or irrigate the area before releasing the Ladybugs so they will have a drink of water after their journey. The can also be watered by sprinkling the sack with water. Do not put wet bags in the refrigerator.
- Ladybugs should be released a few at a time twice a week during the season when leaves are young, tender and attractive to pest insects.
- Apply one (1) tablespoon on each shrub and a handful on each tree to keep them free from pest damage.
- For heavy infestation, release all the Ladybugs in the bag at one time.
After application retie the bag and place in refrigerator until all Ladybugs are used. Ladybugs may be stored in your refrigerator for up to two weeks. Do not freeze.
Click here to go back to the Ladybug order page.

Once it settles it will separate and you will have a coral-colored liquid with sediment in the bottom. Pour the mixture through a strainer lined with fine cheesecloth, through a coffee filter, or even a jelly bag; this takes a little while to strain. You can also use a wet paper towels, however this takes even longer to strain. The idea is to get rid of all of the particles because they will stop up the valve of your sprayer.
Once strained, pour the concentrate into a jar with a plastic lid (not metal), add the soap, stir, and label. The concentrate is ready to use, or it can be stored in a cool dark place for a few months to be used as needed.
Our spray bottles holds about a liter (or a quart), so we add about 2 tablespoons of the concentrate to the bottle and fill it with water. We spray the plants late in the day, so that hot sun doesn’t shine on them once they are sprayed, making sure you cover both sides of the leaves. If the hot sun shines on the just-sprayed leaves it can burn them. Also if you use too much concentrate it will also burn the leaves. If you have a serious infestation, you will need to apply the spray a few times, waiting a few days in between.
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Directions for use:
Before use, the intestines should be soaked for about 20 minutes in water at a temperature of about 30 ° C, and then rinsed inside with lukewarm water.
Before opening - it can be stored at ambient temperature, in a dry, sunless place. Refrigeration is the most recommended to extend their shelf life.
After opening - the recommended storage temperature is 0 - 14 ° C. The product is best stored after opening, salted in the refrigerator. You can also easily freeze the unused intestine and use it for other products. After defrosting, the product should not be re-frozen

In less than two weeks the nematodes pass through several generations of adults, which literally fill the insect cadaver. Steinernema reproduction requires at least two dauer nematodes to enter an insect, but a single Heterorhabditis can generate offspring on its own. The nematodes actively searches for insect larvae. Once inside the larva the nematodes excretes specific bacteria from its digestive trac before it starts to feed. The bacteria multiply very rapid and convert the host tissue into products that the nematodes take up and use for food. The larva dies within a few days and the color changes from white-beige to orange-red or red-brown. The nematodes multiply and develop within the dead insect. As soon as the nematodes are in the infectious third stage, they leave the old host and start searching for new larvae. Infected grubs turn color from white-beige to red brown 2-4 days after application and becomes slimy. After a few weeks, dead larvae disintegrate completely and are difficult to find.
Beneficial nematodes are also very effective against termites, German cockroaches, flies, ant, and fleas.
APPLICATION: Beneficial Nematodes are very easy to use. Mix with water and spray or sprinkle on the soil along garden plants or lawn. Put the contents of the Beneficial nematodes in a bucket of water and stir to break up any lumps, and let the entire solution soak for a few minutes. Application can be made using a water-can, irrigation system, knapsack or sprayer. On sprayer use a maximum pressure to avoid blockage, all sieves should be removed. The sprayer nozzle opening should be at least 1/2 mm. Evenly spread the spraying solutions over the ground area to be treated. Continuous mixing should take place to prevent the nematodes from sinking to the bottom. After application keep the soil moist during the first two weeks for the nematodes to get establish. For a small garden the best method is using a simple sprinkling or water can to apply the Beneficial nematodes to the soil. Apply nematodes before setting out transplants; for other pest insects, Japanese Beetles and grubs, apply whenever symptomatic damage from insects is detected.

Combine Milky Spore With Beneficial Nematodes To Maximize Japanese Beetle Grub Control!
Milky Spore contains spores of the bacteria Paenibacillus popilliae (formerly Bacillus popillae), which work specifically against the grub stage of the Japanese beetle (Popilia japonica). It poses no threat to people, animals, plants or beneficial insects. When Milky Spore is introduced into the soil, it will lie dormant until grubs begin feeding on roots where the bacteria is present. Once ingested, the spore multiplies inside the grub with a single spore creating up to 3 billion new spores in each host grub. These spores kill Japanese Beetle grubs in about a week after infection. As the grub decomposes, the billions of spores it contained are released back into the soil to start the whole process again. Over time, Milky Spore fills out the soil creating a soil environment that Japanese beetles simply cannot survive in.
Milky Spore's effectiveness can be enhanced by the use of NemaSeek beneficial nematodes. They are unharmed by the infective bacteria and help spread it as the nematode moves through the soil pursuing grubs, weevils and larvae. Apply Milky Spore dry, then water in the NemaSeek for complementary control of grubs.
Coverage Rate: Milky Spore Granules
1 lb for 350 sq. ft.
20 lbs treats up to 7,000 sq. ft.
When To Use: Milky Spore Granular is a 2-year program. Apply Spring, Summer and Fall for 2 consecutive years.
Japanese Beetles, Milky Spore and Soil Inoculation
This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases: Japanese Beetles Grubs (Popillia japonica)

The most common type of composting worm! As they feed, Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida) swallow great quantities of organic material, digest it, extract its food value and expel the residue as worm castings, which are very rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and many micronutrients.
E. foetida can process large amounts of organic matter and, under ideal conditions, can eat their body weight each day. They also reproduce rapidly, and are very tolerant of variations in growing conditions.
Item quantities are a close approximate and will arrive in various stages of growth.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
Your shipment will arrive in a cloth bag ready for release. They can be stored for several days in the refrigerator if immediate release is inconvenient. DO NOT freeze or store in a plastic container. To release, lightly water the target area and scatter them about (5-10 per square foot). The best time to release worms is early morning or after sunset. DO NOT release in direct sunlight.
Shipped Free (USPS – Priority Mail)
We do everything we can to ensure safe arrival of your beneficial insects. To facilitate prompt arrival and avoid weekend holdovers during shipping, beneficial insect orders must be received by noon (MST) Wednesday to ship the following Tuesday. If multiple shipments or faster delivery is required, please call.
Orders placed during winter months will be shipped according to our 2015 Shipping Schedule, unless otherwise specified at checkout.
Note: During summer months worm shipments may be delayed due to high temperatures. We will monitor weather conditions and ship when conditions permit.
Please call us at (406) 582-0920 if you have questions concerning the shipping of our beneficial insects.
Planet Natural guarantees live, timely delivery of our beneficial insects. Instructions for care and release are provided with each order.

The sponge should be moist (not dripping wet), but it is possible that this solution can leak out during shipping. If you have received a PH-200 with the cap (or sponge) dry, simply refill it with the enclosed extra storage solution and allow it to soak, standing upright, for one hour. Your meter will be perfectly fine and the small extra bottle is included for this purpose. Never refill the cap with distilled water and never use the cap for testing purposes.

Such packages contain a large amount (by weight) of inert filler material. This facilitates preparation of bulk mixtures such as embodiments of the invention by allowing weight-based recipes and by simplifying mixing procedures to achieve even distribution of the microorganisms throughout the product.
 An effective quantity of microorganism inoculants (mycorrhizae-promoting agents and bacteria) for an embodiment can also be determined based on a biological-activity study of the organisms in the embodiment, compared to an embodiment formulated by weight using commercially-packaged organisms as described above. In other words, the important criterion in preparing a soil-amendment product according to an embodiment of the invention is not the weight of the microorganism-plus-filler, but the number of live or viable organisms present in the mixture when it is applied. For example, in an embodiment formulated at 1.5% by weight of the mycorrhizae-promoting agent MycoApply Micronized Endo/Ectos, the resulting mixture contains approximately 3,300 spores per kilogram (1,500 spores per pound). Similarly, in an embodiment formulated with 0.75% by weight of each of MicroMX Microbiological Organics and TazoAZ Azospirillum Bacteria, the resulting mixture contains about 1.386×101° organisms per kilogram (6.285×109 per pound).
 The final trace ingredient in an embodiment functions to retain water and reduce its tendency to drain away from the surface to which the embodiment is applied. In a preferred embodiment, this material is Geohumus®, a patented (U.S. Pat. No. 5,734,2058, U.S. Pat. No. 7,652,080) starch-based polymer that absorbs water and turns into a gel-like substance. Other hydrogel-like synthetic substances can also be used, although their use may be less ecologically sound. This substance must be operative to hold water in place, but it must also be able to return the water to plants growing in the area. Embodiments contain between about 0.25% and about 3% by weight of such water-retaining substances.
 It is appreciated that many water-retaining substances can absorb many times their weight in water, and therefore their weight can vary.

What you received is a sachet with beneficial insects in them, specifically either Amblyseius cucumeris or Amblyseius swirskii.
- Amblyseius cucumeris is a predatory mite that is useful for the prevention, control, and management of various thrips species. These predators may eat other pests and mites as well.
- Amblyseius swirskii is a predatory mite useful in the control of whitefly predominantly, and with some impact to spider mites as a noted side benefit.
These packets last up to about 5 weeks. Week numbers are printed on the back of each sachet. Anything older than 5 weeks from today’s week can be thrown away as all the beneficial insects have been released. (For Example: If we are in week 21, 5 weeks prior is week 16. If your sachet has a week number between Wk 16 – Wk 21, it is still good. If it is between Wk 1 – Wk 16 it no longer viable and can be tossed away)
If your sachet is less than 5 weeks old, all you do is leave them in the plant and try to avoid getting the sachet wet. The insects release on their own through a very small hole in the sachet.
These sachets are non-toxic and non-hazardous. If your pet accidentally ingests the sachet it will not be harmed.
For more information on our products, please check out our e-commerce website, www.greenmethods.com.

The sponges are packaged as described in Example 3.

Second, nematodes kill their insect hosts within 48 hours. As mentioned earlier, this is due to enzymes produced by the Xenorhabdus bacteria.
Also, the infective juveniles can live for some time without nourishment as they search for a host.
Finally, there is no evidence that parasitic nematodes or their symbiotic bacteria can develop in vertebrates. This makes nematode use for insect pest control safe and environmentally friendly. The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has ruled that nematodes are exempt from registration because they occur naturally and require no genetic modification by man. Beneficial nematodes can be an excellent tool in the lawn and garden to control certain pest insects. They can be used with organic gardening and are safe for kids and pets.
What is a nematode? Nematodes are microscopic, whitish to transparent, unsegmented worms. They occupy almost every conceivable habitat on earth, both aquatic and terrestrial, and are among the most common multicelled organisms. Nematodes are generally wormlike and cylindrical in shape, often tapering at the head and tail ends; they are sometimes called roundworms or eelworms. There are thousands of kinds of nematodes, each with their particular feeding behavior -- for example, bacterial feeders, plant feeders, animal parasites, and insect parasites, to name a few.
Insect-Parasitic Nematodes. Traditionally, soil-inhabiting insect pests are managed by applying pesticides to the soil or by using cultural practices, for example, tillage and crop rotation. Biological control can be another important way to manage soil-inhabiting insect pests. A group of organisms that shows promise as biological control agents for soil pests are insect-parasitic nematodes. These organisms, which belong to the families Steinernematidae and Heterorhabditidae, have been studied extensively as biological control agents for soil-dwelling stages of insect pests. These nematodes occur naturally in soil and possess a durable, motile infective stage that can actively seek out and infect a broad range of insects, but they do not infect birds or mammals. Because of these attributes, as well as their ease of mass production and exemption from EPA registration, a number of commercial enterprises produce these nematodes as biological "insecticides."

The way to protect: spray with malatyon every 10 days.