[ { "page_content": "I firmly believe there is a dog out there for everyone, but to choose the right one, you need to be realistic about your limitations and what you can give them. Buying a puppy is almost as easy nowadays as ordering this book online. But the truth is, a puppy isn’t a product you can stick in a cupboard and forget about if you don’t like it. And they are definitely not something we should buy just because they’d look nice in our house…or because they’re popular right now…or because someone down the road has just got one…or you’ve seen one you like on TV.\n\nHave a word with yourself before you even start thinking about looking for a puppy. You have to be realistic about what you can bring to the table. You might think you’re going to get fit by walking your dog every day— and this is true—but can you put your hand on your heart and say you’ll be able to give a dog the exercise it needs for the next ten, maybe even fifteen, years? An under-exercised dog will undoubtedly make your life hell (you’ll make their life hell too).\n\nAnd what about training? Yes, this book will show you how to train your dog. But it’s not going to physically do it for you. That’s still your job, I’m afraid. Training is time-consuming and requires your total focus and attention, especially in the early days when your puppy is learning so much and taking everything in like a mad thing. Then you’ve got to find the money to feed them, and vet bills can add up, especially if your dog’s breed has specific problems. And thing called BREED FULFILLMENT.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 15, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "3f4681fe-e7e8-48a8-8db9-40163e09235f", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "You’ll want to know about this as I’ll talk a lot about it in this book. As we know them today, dogs have come from a long line of ancestors who were bred for a specific purpose, from hunting and guarding to rescuing or just sitting on someone’s lap (that’s why they’re called lapdogs).\n\nWhatever your dog was originally bred to do is called its breed genetic disposition, the characteristics and instincts that have been bred into their physical and psychological profiles over centuries. Maybe your greyhound needs bursts of intense speed every day—that’s their genetic disposition to race—or your terrier needs to pull and “rag” on toys to emulate how they might pull a rat out of a hole.\n\nFulfilling these basic genetic urges through the kind of play, activities, and general lifestyle you give your puppy is called breed fulfillment. It’s about helping your dog behave in its most natural and instinctive way. And like all of us, dogs are happiest and at their best when their basic needs are being met. More on breed fulfillment as we go along, but here’s a GOLDEN RULE: Ask yourself if you can deliver what’s necessary to keep your dog stimulated and breed-fulfilled in the right way.\n\nAs well as breed fulfillment, there are a few other things I want you to think about and ask yourself or discuss with your family or partner—or basically anyone else who is going to be involved in the dog’s life.\n\nThese are especially important if this is your first time owning a dog:", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 16, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "62d0e402-0522-449b-94d0-4f860cde1d81", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "What size dog do you want? Yes, size matters! Small dogs are generally cheaper to buy equipment for and take up less room on your sofa. Their food bills are smaller, and generally, their poos are too. They are also easier to transport and tend to live longer on average. Big dogs have a much larger presence; you will always know they are there. Larger dogs can generally handle a bit more rough-and-tumble. Exercise requirements. Every dog has different exercise needs, both physical and mental. Be realistic about how much time you can give that dog daily. Do not be fooled into thinking small dogs need less exercise! Dogs who have been bred for working (shepherds, spaniels, terriers, etc.) will require a lot of exercise and make your life difficult if they don’t get it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 16, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "ece70434-fa42-43d6-9e90-2eb02cb8172e", "word_count": 135, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 175 } }, { "page_content": "Are you passive or assertive? This is an important one. If you are a passive owner, you might want to swerve from the headstrong breeds, such as bulldogs, as they will exploit you given half the chance! Passive owners would be more suited to something with a soft nature, such as a greyhound. How much does the dog shed? If you are dreaming of a blue-eyed husky, are you also prepared to vacuum the carpet five times a day? You will have fur in your dinner, bath, and cup of tea! It’s relentless. If you want a dog that doesn’t shed tons, look at something like a Labradoodle or other so-called hypoallergenic breeds (but remember, there is no such thing as a fully hypoallergenic dog; it’s all about their saliva and how much they slobber). Slobber! That’s right; everyone loves a St. Bernard until they have slobber dripping from their ceiling! You must take this into consideration—larger dogs tend to be more slobbery. If you’re the sort of person who keeps everything nice and tidy, this dog will not be your friend. Health. Breeding will play a part in this, but generally speaking, certain breeds have fewer ailments than others. Potential vet bills are definitely something to consider. Brachycephalic dogs (dogs with flat faces like pugs and French bulldogs) will often have more health issues than, say, Border collies, who tend to have very few health issues. Breed fulfillment. I know, I’ve said it already, but it is so important I’m saying it twice. Can you actually meet your dog’s breed requirements—the impulses and drives that they have been bred for? Can you incorporate that, or something similar, into the training? An unfulfilled dog will be miserable and will make your life miserable too.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 17, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "0d480b63-0786-4ce7-b18d-9915abc0872a", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to put you off. I love dogs, and I think everyone can benefit from having one in their life. If you’re still unsure which breed is right for you, let me suggest a few that I think make brilliant first dogs.\n\nEvery trainer and dog lover will tell you something different about what breeds are best for you. At the end of the day, it’s your choice. But these are my top five dogs for a first-time owner. I’ve chosen them based on a decade’s experience of working with breeds of all sorts and seeing firsthand some of the common problems among dogs. These five are all typically easygoing, good-natured, smart, and willing to learn. The Rottweiler man in me can observe occasional “over-friendliness” in these breeds, but that’s not a bad thing for beginners, and basically makes them perfect for the novice trainer. If your heart is set on an American bully, but you’ve never had a dog before, think about having one of these dogs first—you can always grow your family later on (but, PLEASE, never get a second dog until your first one is properly trained!).\n\nThere’s a reason these dogs are favorite dogs for families—they’re calm and very affectionate (soppy). They are extremely intelligent and energetic, so they are easy to train and great for families who like the outdoors. They’re classed as medium-sized dogs, but some of them can get pretty big. Grooming requirements are fairly minimal (barring some heavy shedding), just a decent brush twice a week is all you really need, along with the occasional nail trim.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 17, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "09676aa3-8b70-4d59-bb01-86bf8dcacec0", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "These gentle giants are originally from Canada, where they were bred to help humans with everything from sea rescues and hauling fishing nets to pulling logs and retrieving. They’ve got big, shaggy coats and, in my experience, slobber everywhere. But they’re also fiercely loyal, loving, and intelligent, making them an excellent choice for first-time dog owners, especially families. They’re not small though, so make sure you’ve got the room. They will grow up to be very strong dogs, so training from the get-go is essential.\n\nAs with the Newfoundland, this is a big dog with a big heart, with the bonus of looking kind of like a lion (they were originally bred in Germany to look like lions!). Confident but not aggressive, friendly but not crazy, these are great first-time dogs—but again, only for those with the space at home.\n\nLabradors are the nation’s favorite pet dog, and for good reason. They’re clever, kind, affectionate, and calm. It’s no coincidence they’re the breed used as guide dogs for the blind—they are just so smart and reliable. You can’t go wrong here.\n\nBorder terriers are small and short-haired, so they shed far less than dogs with longer coats. In my experience, they are a highly intelligent breed and generally very easy to train. They’re also exceptional with people and children and have bags of character. They were originally bred to hunt rodents, so they’re determined and brave—but getting socialization right is key to avoiding aggression toward other animals.\n\nAt the end of the day, whichever breed you choose, this book will help you. Just remember this GOLDEN RULE: YOU’VE GOT TO PUT THE WORK IN!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 18, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "06b23ce0-d343-4587-bb35-45763afa47f2", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Of course, not all dogs are so-called purebreds, and there are plenty of crossbreeds around (although, if you want to get into it, you could argue that purebreds are also crossbreeds, but let’s not split hairs!). I’m a big fan of mutts and my dog Roxy is a terrier crossbreed. The right crosses can make some of the best dogs and some combinations are now so popular that they are almost standalone breeds; I’m talking Lurchers (Border collie and greyhound), cockapoos (cocker spaniel and poodle), and the like. The downside when considering crossbreeds is that you can’t always know exactly what breeds or crossbreeds their parents were. This can sometimes\n\nmean you have more questions than answers regarding some of the fundamentals on my checklist. It can also make breed fulfillment especially difficult. How will you fulfill the breed’s genetics when you don’t know what the breed is?\n\nDo not fear. There is a thing called dog fulfillment. This is about meeting the needs of the dog in front of you, not necessarily the breed. For example, we know that things like scent and sound drive all dogs; they like food, and they are—at their core—predatory animals. So even if we don’t know much incorporate our about a dog’s breed genetic disposition, we can understanding of their basic needs into our training to satisfy the dog. And, of course, we can observe and work with the dog in front of us. More on this soon.\n\nSo, ladies and gentlemen, you’ve thought long and hard about the right dog for you, your family, and your lifestyle. And you’ve been brutally honest with yourself about your ability to meet the needs of the breed you chose. (I sincerely hope you have, anyway.) The next step is to go out and get one. The first question you’re going to ask yourself is this: Where the f*ck do I start?", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 19, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "f67fd614-6c2d-491b-a74c-59f19d7b50f7", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "Dog breeding tends to be spectacularly unregulated. As a result, any Tom, Harry, or, excuse me, but total D*CK, can breed their dog and flog a puppy to the first puppy-struck idiot who comes along. Now, plenty of good- hearted people out there might have a litter of puppies—perhaps because they want to continue their own dog’s line—and I don’t have a problem with this kind of breeder. They’re not usually in it for the money and just want the best for their dogs.\n\nUnfortunately, plenty of less-well-meaning people exploit the lack of regulations and the gullibility of most people looking for a cute puppy to turn a quick buck. I’m talking about puppy farms and backyard breeders, people.\n\nThe lockdowns of 2020 and 2021 saw a huge rise in the number of people taking on new puppies. We all had more time at home and, for many of us, getting a dog was the apparent answer to all of our problems of loneliness\n\nand isolation. But here’s the thing people don’t think about—the enormous spike in demand for puppies was fueled by thousands of unscrupulous breeders who were literally pumping puppies out of their exhausted and maltreated dogs to get the maximum amount of cash they could for the minimum amount of effort. These people have no regard for the health or welfare of the puppies they bring into the world.\n\nIt was particularly problematic for the so-called fashionable breeds— dogs like your French bulldogs, American bullies, and cockapoos—who can come with some pretty hefty health problems, even in the best of hands. And due to backyard breeders—people with no breeding knowledge— playing God with these puppies, we saw a lot of dogs being born with severe health and behavioral problems.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 21, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "fd15234e-0e7e-46d0-9dae-4e0bf74ef693", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "After paying thousands of dollars for a “designer” puppy, people quickly realized that they couldn’t look after them and couldn’t afford the frikkin’ crazy vets’ bills that came with them. According to the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), the number of French bulldogs being “returned” to rescue centers increased by a staggering 1,500% in the five years between 2015 and 2020. And those are the official numbers. There are also countless thousands of unwanted puppies who don’t ever make it to a rescue center.\n\nDemand for dogs also saw an increase in puppy imports and third-party sales; young dogs were transported overseas in large numbers in low- welfare conditions and then sold online by people posing as breeders. The number of licenses issued in the UK for the commercial import of dogs more than doubled in 2019–20, to over 12,000. That’s 12,000 people importing very young puppies in big containers, sometimes with up to 150 of them in there all at once. Long journeys like this in substandard conditions are not good for young puppies—many of whom have been poorly bred and may already have health problems—before going through an incredibly stressful and traumatic experience like that. More unhealthy puppies, more people spending stupid amounts of money on dogs that don’t stand a chance and fueling a wildly out-of-control breeding industry. I’m trying to say that the whole puppy breeding thing is a massive sh*t show, and you need to know what you are doing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "3ee30e6e-4085-478b-8dcb-aa8742c02eb5", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "Why am I telling you all of this miserable stuff? You just want a cute puppy, right? What does it matter where it comes from as long as you treat it right when you get it home? Because I want you to get real and spot the red flags so it doesn’t end in disaster. Because it’s this simple: once you know what to look for, good and bad, you stand a much better chance of bringing home a healthy, happy puppy who will be with you for many years.\n\nFollow this checklist to see if the breeder you are talking to is decent or a", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 23, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "68ed7a9a-dd1f-4b3a-8710-d7e2866f975c", "word_count": 106, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 137 } }, { "page_content": "If you’ve seen their ad online, does it look legit? Are the pictures of a real home, or have you seen the same pictures on other websites? The same goes for the telephone number. Is the description written normally, or have they “optimized” it with current popular words so that Google will rank them at the top of the search results? Is the breeder American Kennel Club registered? Not all breeders who aren’t AKC-registered are bad and not all AKC-registered breeders are good. But having that affiliation means they meet some basic welfare requirements that you will want to have in place. Is the breeder happy to let you see the puppies with their mom? They should be in a whelping box with their mom for the first eight weeks. Anyone who is cagey about the mother and/or has separated the puppies from her too early is not doing their job properly. If you’re looking at crossbreeds, are they a cross that has been thoughtfully and carefully matched? Use your brain: the puppy of a massive, grunty bulldog and a dainty little Chihuahua is not going to get that far in life, is it? Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. If the breeder doesn’t seem to know what they are doing, guess what…they probably don’t. Is their home a sh*thole? I’m not being a snob here, I’m just saying trust your gut. If this person can’t keep their own home from being a disgusting pit, what does that tell you about their approach to breeding puppies for sale? You get me?", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 23, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "8bc8d29a-e9b2-41ff-93e5-9848d4ef32e0", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Will they actually let you come to their home? If they’re asking you to meet them at a service station or some other weird place, they are likely to be a third-party salesperson employed by the puppy farm to shift “product” (aka puppies). Remember: you get your gas and McDonald’s at the highway service station, not your puppy. Are they asking you questions? Anyone who gives a sh*t about their puppies will want to know a bit about you and where they are sending their dog to live for the rest of their life. If the breeder you’re talking to isn’t asking you some serious questions, they’re not likely to have great standards when it comes to the welfare of their dogs. Have they done all the paperwork and all the health stuff? There is now something called the Puppy Contract that all decent breeders should be happy to provide you with. It’s a legally binding contract that outlines all the basic health checks the puppy’s parents have had (things like hip scoring, heart, DNA; it varies from breed to breed) and states that, if for any reason, the buyer (that’s you) needs to return the puppy, you’ll bring it back to the breeder—and not leave it in a garbage can somewhere. All puppies should be microchipped and have had at least one round of vaccinations before they are sold, and your contract should include evidence of all this. Does the puppy seem healthy? I know you’re not a vet, but again, I urge you to use your common sense a bit. Is the puppy happy and playful, or does it seem a bit lethargic? Runny eyes, difficulty walking, and difficulty breathing are all signs of potential health problems. A decent breeder won’t mind you getting a second opinion, so don’t be afraid to bring someone along with you who might be able to tell you more or even suggest a consultation with a vet.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "218ff95f-4922-4bfc-91d8-7fd24579a5f5", "word_count": 325, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 422 } }, { "page_content": "gain, I urge you to use your common sense a bit. Is the puppy happy and playful, or does it seem a bit lethargic? Runny eyes, difficulty walking, and difficulty breathing are all signs of potential health problems. A decent breeder won’t mind you getting a second opinion, so don’t be afraid to bring someone along with you who might be able to tell you more or even suggest a consultation with a vet. Are they happy to let you visit the puppy a couple of times before you take them home forever? Someone restricting access or trying to get the animal out of the way unusually quickly should be ringing alarm bells for you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "2c25eeb7-860c-4fd6-a231-81707fbf51cf", "word_count": 115, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 149 } }, { "page_content": "If you find yourself in a situation where you’re not sure the breeder you’re dealing with is legit, you need to walk away. Hard, right? I know, I really do. Every inch of you will want to save those puppies, or one of them anyway. But it’s this simple, ladies and gentlemen: if you give these people money, you are perpetuating the whole nasty business. Walk away if alarm bells are ringing. Dodgy breeding thrives because it takes place under the radar, so the authorities need to know about it when something isn’t right.\n\nPeople think dog rescue centers are only for adult dogs, but newsflash: there are plenty of puppies in rescue centers too. How do puppies end up in rescue centers when they are so young? There are loads of reasons. People discover their bitch is pregnant and can’t cope with the reality of having puppies, or they get one from a breeder and very quickly realize they have made a giant error. In theory, a decent breeder will want you to return an unwanted puppy to them (and its mom), but dodgy breeders won’t take puppies back, so they end up at the rescue centers. Rescuing a puppy isn’t for everyone. With a rescue puppy, you don’t always know what has happened to them before you come into their lives. You might not get to see their parents, or even know their parents’ breed. It’s a bit of a leap of faith that you need to be prepared to take in the knowledge that your puppy’s backstory might never be that clear.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 25, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "2a2a60e5-6f3d-44cd-8070-ea88dfc38856", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "There are some pretty awesome benefits to having a rescue puppy. For one thing, they are usually far cheaper than a private sale, and you’ll know they will benefit from proper health checks and vaccinations from a vet. Depending on how old they are, they may also have had some early training. And, of course, the main thing is you are helping a puppy who might never find a home, and with that often comes an incredible bond between the dog and its owner. Some of the greatest dogs I’ve worked with —including two of my own, Sammie and Roxy—have come from a rescue background, so don’t discount it as an option before you’ve really explored\n\nit. Follow your local rescue center’s social media pages or talk to the staff there about the kind of puppy you are looking for—they might have one for you.\n\nIf you’re picking a puppy from a breeder, you need to give some thought to which puppy you’re going to choose. Which is best, a girl or a boy? The runt or the top dog?", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 25, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "9d908d45-0957-4256-941f-89cc85a88172", "word_count": 180, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 234 } }, { "page_content": "It all depends on the kind of owner you will be and the type of energy you want your puppy to have. I always laugh when people tell me their puppy somehow chose them. A puppy runs over to them, jumps all over them, licks their face, and they decide that this puppy is their destiny—it’s love at first sight! No! That’s just the biggest, most headstrong and willful puppy in the litter. And if that’s what they’re like at eight weeks old, imagine what they’re going to be like at eight months when they’re smashing their way through the dog park! Or, at the other end of the spectrum, people feel sorry for the so-called runt and decide it’s their job to help this puppy because they have a savior complex. But this puppy is more likely to be nervous and have anxiety problems later on. If you aren’t prepared to manage a dog who lacks confidence and work with them to build it, you could find yourself with a problem pup further down the line.\n\nIf you are a first-time or inexperienced dog owner, ideally you want the one in the middle: the calm and affable puppy who is energetic, but not crazy, curious, but not anxious. At the end of the day, it all depends on you and the kind of dog you want. You might like crazy, in which case, fill your boots! Which puppy you pick will be up to you and will be determined, to some extent, by which ones are available. But one thing you should try to avoid doing is bringing home two puppies from the same litter. And if you are dealing with a breeder who is happy to let you take two puppies from the same litter, you really need to question how competent this breeder is.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 26, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "12e26f5b-01bb-4047-a5b3-aa7dc702790b", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "People think having siblings will be nice for the puppies, and they will play together and look after each other. Sorry, but no. As I have already mentioned, this is not a Disney film. Just because two dogs come from the same litter doesn’t mean they will share some kind of magical sibling bond and enjoy each other’s company for the next 15 years. Quite the opposite, in fact. Littermates form a pecking order from very early on, and when you\n\nbring two of them home together, that stays with them and can grow and become enhanced. What this means, in reality, is that one of your dogs will always dominate the other, a situation that, if not carefully managed, can lead to all sorts of trouble.\n\nLittermate syndrome, aka sibling aggression, is very common when you take two pups from the same litter into the same household beyond the eight- to ten-week mark. Littermate syndrome isn’t exclusive to the litter either; two puppies of the same age from different litters can also still develop littermate syndrome. This syndrome is why puppies very often fight with each other as they get older. They form a very close—and often codependent—bond with each other (anyone with their own sibling will probably relate to this!).\n\nFixing littermate syndrome means working with them individually, something puppies need, but it can be a massive chore as they panic whenever they are separated. For this very reason, a decent breeder will never sell you two dogs from the same litter. Although some people will tell you they have raised two puppies from the same litter and never experienced this, the truth is they have dodged a bullet. As a dog trainer of ten years, I’ve seen enough disastrous littermate relationships to know that they are the exception to the rule.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 26, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "7e959e02-5dbd-4347-bcbb-aa40fb222ab2", "word_count": 304, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 395 } }, { "page_content": "If you have your heart set on having two dogs of a similar age grow up together, I recommend bringing the second dog into your family when your existing dog is a minimum of ten to twelve months old. This means that training will be well established with your first dog and that strong sense of littermate rivalry will be dormant. At the same time, there will still be less than a year between them in age, so that they will have years ahead of them to run and play and have the time of their lives together.\n\nFor dogs, sex is very much a black-and-white situation. You have bitches (the girls) and you have dogs (the boys), and each sex has its own characteristics that are worth thinking about before you bring one home.\n\nWithout being too controversial, I actually prefer bitches. All my dogs are bitches—mainly because when you give them a belly rub, you don’t accidentally rub a penis. But also because, in my experience, females are more nurturing and loving and generally the kind of dog I like to have\n\naround the place. But, as with all species, when they kick off they really mean it! Males can be a bit goofier and emotionally detached. When they kick off, it’s all bravado and “look at me, I’m Billy Big Bollocks.” To make things more complicated, your breed will also play a part in gender characteristics, so be sure to talk to your breeder or do some research about the breed you’ve chosen and how bitches and dogs can differ. You also need to remember that bitches have seasons during which they bleed and attract the attention of male dogs. And dogs like to mark their territory by p*ssing everywhere. When they pee, it’s up something, whereas with bitches, it’s usually on a flat surface.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 27, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "f4fd16ed-d236-466a-beda-546e405735f6", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "It’s a messy business, having a dog. You just have to choose which mess\n\nyou want to live with for the next ten to fifteen years.\n\nTIP: If you can’t decide which puppy in the litter is right for you, but you know you’d\n\nlike a bitch or a male, ask the breeder to briefly remove all of the puppies who aren’t the\n\ngender you are after. This way, you aren’t overwhelmed with puppies and can see the\n\nI once bought my two-year-old daughter a pair of eye-wateringly expensive Ugg boots, only for her to grow out of them in a couple of weeks. It’s the same with puppies. They grow crazy fast! There are literally thousands of things you can spend your money on when it comes to a new puppy. I can’t stop you from buying them a bow tie or a bed in the shape of a car, but let’s be very clear: all that stuff is funny, but pointless. You don’t need to spend a fortune on things that are not necessary at this stage. Think of your puppy as a blank canvas on which you are about to paint a masterpiece—you don’t want to throw all of your brushes and every color paint at it all at once, do you? Too much too soon will leave you without any materials and a big old mess on the canvas.\n\nIn this chapter, I’m going to help you prepare for your new puppy; we’ll look at all the tools you need to buy and all the stuff you really don’t. I will also talk about their food and why I’m a big believer in a raw diet and hand- feeding. But before we go into all that, I want to mention one thing you need to keep in mind when preparing for your new arrival: A SMOOTH TRANSITION.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 28, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "4fdd0350-d466-491e-97e6-dbf8075f820d", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "What do I mean? Well, if you think about it for a minute, you’re basically taking this puppy away from everything it has known in its short life and transferring it to an entirely new human environment. The young dog, now essentially your child, doesn’t care if it’s got a nice bowl with its name on it or a diamanté collar. They care about staying alive, food and protection, growing, using all their new skills, and satisfying their curiosity. Back in the\n\nlitter with their mom and all their littermates, there were plenty of opportunities for play and stimulation, endless food and warmth. So when I say make it a smooth transition, what I mean is make sure, as far as you can, that all of these things are in place at your puppy’s new home. Diamanté collars can wait.\n\nIn a second, I’m going to give you my breakdown of all the things you’ll need and why, but first, I want to tell you the one thing you definitely don’t need to buy: PUPPY PADS. It doesn’t matter how you dress them up, how the theory works, or how worried you are about your carpets getting ruined —puppy pads send a message to your dog that it’s OK to p*ss and sh*t in your house. They encourage the EXACT OPPOSITE of the behavior you want your dog to learn. You are setting them up to fail, ladies and gentlemen; that is not what we are all about.\n\nWe’ll come to toilet training properly in chapter 4, but for now, just remember this: puppy pads tell your puppy it’s OK to sh*t and p*ss in your house. If you are OK with that, by all means, go out and buy a load of them. But if you want to teach your puppy to do their business outside, save yourself a load of hassle and cash and leave the puppy pads at the pet shop.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 29, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "6d1319a7-0b27-4e0c-81e3-1514b5779fa8", "word_count": 324, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 421 } }, { "page_content": "Having a few essential bits of gear at home when you bring your puppy back for the first time will help you make that smooth transition that we all want. Here are my suggested essentials:\n\nPeople get in a right old state about puppy crates and say they’re cruel and you shouldn’t keep a dog locked in a crate and all that nonsense. But ask yourself this: Would you put your newborn baby to sleep on the floor in the middle of the room or on a chair? No, you wouldn’t. You’d put them somewhere safe, reassuring, and comfortable. That’s all a crate is, a\n\nreassuring space for your puppy where they can rest and you can be sure they’re OK.\n\nThink of it as a den-like environment, similar to the whelping box they will have spent their first eight weeks in. They like it. We’ll come to how to use a crate and crate training in the next chapter, but for now just make sure you’ve got one—and if you live in a house with stairs, preferably two (one for upstairs and one for downstairs).\n\nYou can get all sorts of crates with plastic windows and curtains—that’s your choice at the end of the day. Just make sure you can open and close it easily and that your puppy can get in and out of the crate. A plastic base that you can easily clean will also be a bonus.\n\nPuppies frikkin’ love food, and they love to chew sh*t! We’ll be using food a lot over the next few weeks and months to build the bond between you and create motivation for your puppy. At Southend Dog Training, we’re all about feeding our dogs raw food—yes, RAW. Why? Because it’s a species-appropriate diet. It’s not full of crap and it’s great for their teeth and gums.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "1e98ce39-1984-4c2f-a6c1-ad5e65fd1081", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "There’s more about diet on this page, but in the meantime, find yourself a treat pouch that is (a) easy to attach to a belt or keep in a pocket, (b) designed for easy access (on your belt or around your waist is perfect), and (c) hygienic. Silicone pouches are my preferred choice as you can easily wash and wipe them clean. If you worry about handling raw food, you might also want to invest in a load of latex gloves and hand sanitizer.\n\nThis is not their crate for rest and switching off, it’s a safe area for your puppy to play in at home. You can get a full pen or use gates to section off an area of your home where your pup can move around freely; just make sure it’s safe and not full of dangerous chemicals or exposed wiring. You also need to be able to get in and out of the area easily, so don’t put high boundaries there that make it difficult for you to move freely.\n\nWhen getting your puppy’s ID tag made, I’d suggest you put your name and address, your dog’s name, and your telephone number on it. Also check your local laws about dog ID tags. At this stage, a collar needs to be soft and easy to take on and off, with room for at least two fingers between your puppy’s neck and the collar. We’ll come to getting them used to it in the next chapter; just make sure you have something at home ready for them to put on as soon as they arrive.\n\nThis is essential; it will go on your puppy’s collar every time they are out of the crate for the first few months. Go for a soft, long indoor training line —it should be thin and lightweight, almost ribbon-like. And with no handle at the end, as this prevents it from getting caught on things and risking strangulation.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 31, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "ce1a219d-1037-48bd-9ee2-ba8982a2fdcb", "word_count": 326, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 423 } }, { "page_content": "You don’t need to overwhelm your puppy with a sh*t ton of toys that they can access whenever they want to. When you let them get at toys whenever they like, you devalue the toys and your own leverage for training. We’ll cover toys and how to use them shortly. In the meantime, pick up these few essentials at the pet shop (or from the SDT website, where everything is tried and tested by us) so you’re game-ready when your puppy comes home:\n\nA tug toy or bite wedge: heavy-duty rope or something similar (not for the puppy to play with alone) A flirt pole: for using up some of that excessive energy A ball: for throwing and retrieving (not for the puppy to play with alone) An interactive food-dispensing toy like a LickiMat or KONG Classic: great for when you need to keep them busy\n\nwithout your supervision Something to chew on, like a nylon bone: for teething A brush for grooming\n\nYou need to get your dog used to being brushed, not so it looks nice and pretty, but so that their coat stays clean and so that they are comfortable with being handled by you, the groomer, or the vet. You can introduce a nice relaxing brush of their coat almost from day one, so make sure you have a brush at home. Different breeds and coats will need different brushes, but mostly with puppies you want something soft that isn’t going to hurt their delicate skin.\n\nAs with everything to do with puppy training, when it comes to their diet, you get out what you put in. It’s that simple. I advocate a raw food diet from day one (yes, puppies can eat raw from the start, so don’t fall for all that special puppy food bullsh*t at the supermarket), and I prefer to feed my dogs by hand. Raw food? By hand? YES! Here’s why:", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "c796d69c-6376-440b-8bee-311c6388c04b", "word_count": 320, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 416 } }, { "page_content": "A massive part of the way I train dogs is based on hand-feeding, rather than bowl feeding, until they are fully trained. Hand-feeding is kind of like breastfeeding a baby. It’s the best thing for them, but you don’t want to do it forever! Hand-feeding your dog is the best and quickest way to build a bond between the two of you.\n\nWith every bit of food that passes from your hand to their mouth, you are strengthening the relationship between you and your dog. Not only that, but hand-feeding requires your dog to do something in return for their food. When you put their food in a bowl on the floor and walk away, you miss out on endless training and teaching opportunities. Your bowl-fed dog learns that its next meal is coming in a few hours, so the power of food as a motivator for training and good behavior is reduced.\n\nIf you’re hand-feeding your dog, you’re never really giving them “treats” or a “meal”—you’re just giving them their food slowly throughout the day.\n\nYou might be out on a walk, in the garden, or in the toilet—it doesn’t matter where you feed them or at what time. If you are hand-feeding them, it happens throughout the day. So try to let go of the idea of set mealtimes and matching bowls.\n\nBut how do you know how much to give them? It’s simple, guys. Work out your puppy’s daily allowance of food according to its weight. Your food supplier should provide this information. If you don’t have scales at home, you should be able to easily weigh your puppy at the vet—most vets have a scale in their waiting room. Put that food in your treat pouch and use it as the “treats” you reward your puppy with as you train them throughout the day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "887d8329-f4d1-4b44-be66-7c8c29319a5c", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "TIP: You can start this technique as soon as your puppy comes home, so make sure you\n\nhave worked out their daily allowance before they come blasting through that door and\n\nI like to feed my dogs a raw food diet. This doesn’t mean going down to the butchers daily and buying them a load of steak. The raw dog food I recommend is Southend Dog Nutrition, which is nutritionally complete. It contains all the bones, organs, and meat your dog needs for a healthy, genetically appropriate diet. I’m talking beef trachea, spleen, tripe, chicken necks, lamb kidneys, and the works. It will also contain certain vegetables and berries, fish oils, and kelp. With a decent complete raw food, all these things will have been put through a grinder in the appropriate ratios, so you know your dog is getting the right amount of everything they need.\n\nWhy do I prefer raw? Just take a look at your dog’s jaw! It’s designed to eat this stuff. Plus, it’s not full of preservatives and colorings that can cause allergies and digestive problems. And I’ve seen firsthand how much a raw food diet improves everything, from a glossier coat and stronger teeth (dogs fed on a raw diet do not need ridiculous dental sticks and toothbrushes— fact) and a better temperament—an all-around happier dog.\n\nDogs drink less water: easier toilet training They don’t fart as much (the dog, not you!) Feces are much smaller: literally less sh*t in their body Better teeth Improved temperament Less prone to allergies A stronger immune system", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "67906fe0-6ac3-42ba-9639-f7d9884dfacb", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "What’s not to love? “But what about salmonella?” People ask me this a lot. Yes, full disclosure: your dog could get salmonella if they eat raw food. But hello—it’s a tiny risk! In ten years of working with dogs, I’ve yet to come across a canine case of salmonella. It’s the same as how they might choke on a bone. So could you. Choking is a risk—minimizing it is all about making the right choices and supervision. It’s a risk, but it’s not a risk that outweighs the benefits of a raw food diet.\n\nWhere do you get raw food? There are hundreds of brands making decent raw food for dogs now. You can go online and get it delivered to your door in the right size portions for your dog, or you can buy it from your local pet shop in slabs, which you can keep in the freezer and divide into the portions you need throughout the day. We, of course, 100 percent recommend our brand, Raw Food: Southend Dog Nutrition, which can be purchased from our website.\n\nHowever you choose to do it, here are the key things you need to\n\nYou can feed a puppy raw food as soon as you bring them home. Follow your supplier’s guide on how much to give them. Go for a complete raw food: this means it contains everything your puppy needs to grow. Always practice good hygiene: wash your hands and wipe surfaces.\n\nBut raw food and hand-feeding? Many people get a bit squeamish about this. They don’t like the idea of handling squishy raw meat. It doesn’t bother me, but I get it. There are two ways around this. One is to wear latex gloves every time you are feeding your dog. I know plenty of people who do this, but it’s a bit of a pain in the arse having to put rubber gloves on every time you want your dog to do something.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "a607496b-e64a-4bd2-a809-d445ba7679a5", "word_count": 327, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 425 } }, { "page_content": "The other option is to put your raw food into an old squeezy ketchup bottle or something similar and dispense it from the bottle directly into your puppy’s mouth.\n\nIf you choose not to feed raw, that’s OK! There are some decent dry foods and kibbles out there. But there are plenty of sh*t ones as well. Here are the things to look out for in decent dry dog food:\n\nIt must contain proper meat, not a meat derivative: meat derivative is garbage. The meat should be the very first ingredient on the list: if it comes halfway down, after colorings and preservatives, it might as well just be dust. It should not be multicolored or shaped like something weird: the more messed around with their food is, the less natural it is.\n\nBeing a puppy is thirsty work. After a busy training session, ensure your pup has access to clean, fresh water. To help with toilet training, it’s best not to give them totally free access to water just yet. Like us, dogs need to stay hydrated to keep everything working. Some dogs are messier drinkers than others…keep a towel nearby.\n\nTIP: Water is a big indicator of how healthy they are. If your pup is drinking excessive\n\namounts of water, it could mean their food is not agreeing with them or they have an\n\nunderlying illness. Keep an eye on things, and if in doubt, talk to your vet.\n\nIt seems obvious, guys, but try to decide on a name before you bring them home, please! It’s literally the first thing you’re going to teach them and how you’re going to help them understand that they need to pay attention to you when you say something to them. So have something ready…now is not the time to try out names and see if stuff suits them or anything like that.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 36, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "b2c8da9e-f9eb-49a7-8d27-815f7633df34", "word_count": 312, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 405 } }, { "page_content": "You can call your puppy whatever you want, but some things will make your life easier than others. The main thing is to give them a name that’s not easily confused with a command. You’re going to be saying words like SIT, DOWN, and YES, so it might be a good idea to avoid Spit, Clown, and Ness. And if you’ve got a big menacing dog (for example, an American bully or a cane corso), please don’t give them a big menacing name, like Brutus or Killer. It might be funny, but these aggressive labels only add to the misunderstanding around powerful breeds. It’s no coincidence my Rottweiler was called Daisy. Keep it positive, people.\n\nStock up on this. Without it, you’ll not get very far with this dog training game. What do I mean by patience? I mean, you can’t get frustrated and lose your sh*t every time they have an accident on the kitchen floor or they don’t stay put when you tell them to. You can’t get frustrated with your dog for not understanding or knowing what they are meant to do. You are teaching them. If they get something wrong or don’t seem to understand, that’s your fault and not theirs. Stay calm and patient and you will get there.\n\nRepetition is key in training dogs. You do stuff with them, and you repeat it until they get it. They like rules and knowing where they are with things, so you need to be consistent. You can’t decide they’re not allowed on the sofa and then change your mind one evening because you want a cuddle. And you have to be consistent with the positive stuff too. That means always rewarding them—with a treat, a belly rub, or whatever it is—when they do the right thing. We’ll go into more detail soon, but for now, just remember", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "b1e85518-a4fa-4531-a219-e77b15b9ffa2", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "your consistency is what will help them learn. Told you it was hard work, didn’t I?\n\nOK, guys! So you’ve got the puppy, all the gear…and no idea, right? Don’t worry! I’m here to talk you through the first few days of living with your new puppy. Not to freak you out or anything, but this is a REALLY important moment and getting it right now will help you stay on track further down the line.\n\nThe smooth transition I mentioned in the last chapter is a key thing to remember. Your little puppy’s world has just been turned upside down. They will be relying on you to show them what to do now, so make sure you can give them loads of attention and generally be there for them in this transitional period. It’s no good getting a puppy in the morning and then going off to work for the day. If you can’t give them the time and focus they deserve right now, it isn’t the right time for you to get a dog.\n\nYou can do a few things for your puppy to make that all-important transition to their new home go as smoothly as possible. This list is a guide —you don’t need to rigidly do things in this order—but try to incorporate these key points into their first day at home with you.\n\nWhen you bring your puppy through your front door, the first thing I want you to do is to make sure it’s nice and quiet. Do not invite everyone you know over to meet your new puppy! All of that can wait. This is a baby animal experiencing major sensory overload. They’ve probably just been in a car for the first time and they might have traveled a long distance. They don’t know what the frik is going on! Use your common sense here and give your puppy a calm and soothing first day or so in their new home.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "8e391c5c-e1e0-4daf-a923-17c447b79fc5", "word_count": 328, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 426 } }, { "page_content": "That said, it’s important to be realistic about the noise levels in your home from the get-go. If you have a busy family life, your puppy will need to learn to switch off while it’s all going on around them. More on this coming up in the “Sleep” subsection.\n\nNow the first thing I want you to do is to put their new collar and leash on. You don’t want to let your puppy just run all around the house. Firstly, the world is a big toilet to them right now, and if left to their own devices, they can—and will—p*ss and sh*t everywhere. But secondly, too much space will terrify the little guy or girl. A major mistake people make is letting their puppy explore too much, too soon. Putting their leash on lets them know they should stay close to you for now. There is loads of time for discovering the rest of the house later on. For now, just take your puppy into the rooms it is going to be allowed in. For most of us, that usually means the kitchen and maybe the living room. Have your pen set up in one of these rooms as a space they can roam freely in, then introduce them to that and let them discover things at a nice gentle pace.\n\nTIP: Kids’ bedrooms and puppies do not go well together. Unless you have the world’s\n\ntidiest child or teenager, their room is likely to be full of toys, clothes, books, hairbands,\n\nand pretty much everything a puppy likes to chew—and potentially choke—on. I advise\n\nkeeping certain rooms categorically off-limits to a puppy, kids’ rooms being at the top of", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 40, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "2f409afc-3da8-4a7d-ae59-ab4c15ed1253", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "We’re not doing puppy pads, guys! So they need to learn to go outside for a number one or two. Obviously, this will take a while and there will be a few accidents along the way. But you can start introducing them to the idea that p*ss and sh*t stay outside from the moment you come home. Keeping them on the leash, take them outside and wait until you see them doing their business. Give them a treat, make a fuss, and add a command. For my dogs, it’s always “Go toilet.” This isn’t going to happen overnight, but there is no reason why you can’t start introducing the idea now. Most dogs want to go outside for this stuff; they’re programmed to do it outside. So you have nature on your side, at least.\n\nTIP: If your puppy is from a breeder and you’re collecting them at the recommended\n\neight weeks of age, they will not have had all their vaccinations yet. This means that the\n\nrisk of picking up an infection from the ground (such as parvovirus) is increased. So you\n\nneed to be extra careful about ensuring they stay safe until they have had that second\n\nKeep some dog-friendly, antibacterial animal wipes by the door or in your pocket\n\nand wipe your puppy’s feet and belly when they come inside. This will ensure they stay\n\nsafe until they get their next shots. If you live in an apartment, do the same thing in the\n\nI am 100 percent opposed to using puppy pads, as it sends a confusing message to your pup. If you think it might be difficult to get outside in time (and often late at night), then you really need to consider whether having a puppy is right for you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 41, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "ce540f91-9ead-46cd-8bca-e0ee4041da06", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy needs to know their name, right? Teaching them this is simple. Say their name and give them a treat. Say their name and give them a treat. Say their name and give them a treat—you get the idea. Do this for five or ten minutes, until you feel like they understand that something tasty comes\n\ntheir way when you say their name. They’ll make a positive association between their name and you. Job done. (More on names and reinforcing positive associations in the next chapter.)\n\nIf you’ve already got a dog in the house, you must keep both dogs on a leash when they first meet. Take introductions slowly but do it almost immediately after you’ve taken them outside to go to the toilet. There are plenty of variables to consider here—every adult dog and puppy is different. Your puppy is a baby who might think your existing dog is a big chew toy. Some adult dogs are instinctively nurturing; others might get grumpy with a puppy bouncing all over them from the get-go. Take it slowly, praise calm behavior in your adult dog, and give them plenty of individual attention. They are different animals with different requirements. Your adult dog might have sofa privileges and not sleep in a crate, but that doesn’t mean your puppy follows suit.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 41, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "2cee816b-fc6e-46aa-abd3-c1938962eec3", "word_count": 221, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 287 } }, { "page_content": "After all the excitement of coming home and exploring their new environment, it’s important your puppy gets the rest they need. Once you’ve taken them outside for a pee and done their first little training session by teaching them their name, I want you to put them in their crate, close the door, put a blanket over it, and leave them to rest for a while. If the puppy starts to cry, you need to ignore it. Whining is part of the process; it is going to happen. It’s not easy to hear, I know, but if you respond to it, you are making a rod for your own back. You are not being cruel; you are teaching them how to switch off and giving them a breather from all the stimulation of the day. The length of sleep will vary according to your dog’s size and breed, but they should normally sleep for an hour or two at this stage and will need up to 16 hours of sleep a day. If they have only slept for a few minutes and start crying again, it hasn’t been long enough. Ignore it and let them settle themselves back to sleep. This is tough love, guys, but it is worth it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "2364cacd-aa6c-4d96-8a6f-34b2fac40cdd", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "Engagement. Eye contact. Paying attention. However you want to describe it, every single thing you teach your dog starts from this point. Without a dog who pays attention to you when you need them to, you won’t be able to teach them anything! You can start teaching your puppy that good things happen when they pay attention to you from the get-go. It’s a simple technique that I call Just Say Yes. And as you might have guessed, it involves just saying “YES,” then rewarding them with a treat when your puppy looks at you. The more you can reward eye contact, the more results you will get. It’s a bit more involved than this (we’ll look at YES and other markers more closely in chapter 5), but there is no reason why you can’t start now with this simple technique.\n\nSleep, go toilet, play, and train: you can follow this kind of pattern as soon as you come home. Obviously, it’s very early days and you don’t want to overwhelm your puppy with training and commands on day one! But by following these steps as soon as you get home, you can begin to introduce them to some fundamentals and start to establish the bond between you.\n\nIt’s important to understand that children are towering giant strangers to your puppy. Don’t let kids surround them or overcrowd them. Make sure the kids are sitting somewhere safe when they first meet the puppy, and explain that they’ll need to be patient while the puppy finds its feet—or paws!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "99f6c3e9-76b6-412e-b5d5-77914618b9c1", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "The first few days will be a bit of a mental blur, let’s face it. But pretty soon you should be able to establish a routine for your puppy. A routine, you say? But why does a dog need a routine? It’s not a human being, right? Many people think dogs don’t need routines and you should just let them do things on their own schedules. There is an argument for less restrictive routines, I believe, with older dogs, especially if you are the kind of owner who doesn’t have a routine yourself. For example, you might travel a lot and need to leave your dog with other people for periods, or you might\n\nwork unpredictable hours. It makes sense that a dog locked into a regular routine will find it stressful when things keep changing all the time. But for puppies, a daily routine is reassuring and helps them settle into their new surroundings.\n\nYoung dogs like to know where they are with things. It is also a massive win when it comes to toilet training. Putting that structure into their daily schedule means you’ll know when they eat, when they sleep, and when they’re likely to need to go to the toilet. Happy days! It’s also about helping this young animal adjust to life in the human world.\n\nYour life is busy, I know, so you need those windows of time when you know your puppy will be asleep or playing independently. A decent routine will create this space for you and your puppy. And the more support you can give your puppy through a reliable, consistent schedule, the better chance you’re giving them of becoming a well-adjusted, happy adult dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "02801b89-0376-4b00-9cb2-ea6b9520e84d", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "So let’s get you and your puppy set up with a routine! This is the schedule I have followed with all of my dogs, and it’s the one I get all of my clients and students to live by….\n\nFirst thing in the morning, your puppy will have a full bladder and need a pee, if not a poo. Take your pup outside for the toilet, and when they go, praise them and start adding a “Go toilet” command. Remember, if they haven’t had all of their vaccinations, you need to wipe them down when they come back inside.\n\nOnce your pup has been to the toilet, grab your pup’s food and begin a training/play session: sit, down, eye contact, and reward, etc. (While you are waiting for them to be fully vaccinated, this can be any of the training ideas and techniques listed in chapter 5. Later on, when you can get out and about, there are more things you can do at the park, beach, or wherever you are.)\n\nOnce your pup starts mouthing things or losing interest in what you’re doing, it’s a sign they’re overtired. We want to ensure your session ends positively, so give them a chew toy to calm them down, decompress, and help with any teething, then put them in their crate and let them sleep.\n\nAs soon as your puppy wakes up (roughly one to two hours), take them outside for a toilet break, followed by a training/play session until they seem tired. Repeat the above every time your puppy wakes up (on the basis they have had a good sleep for one hour or more).", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "dd043874-d91e-44c1-bf8a-d72c6254acea", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "It’s important to let your puppy know there is a difference between night and day—and that you will not be available for fun and games after a certain time. Establishing a routine around bedtime will be reassuring and comforting for your puppy in exactly the same way as your daytime routine is. Once they’ve learned the basics and have grown up a bit, you can afford to switch things up. But in these early days, you’ll need to call on all your consistency and patience while establishing a routine. I’m not going to dress this up: it’s going to be hard. You’re going to feel exhausted. But puppies are baby dogs, people. You’re going to have some sleepless nights. Just remember, it’s only for a short while and you’ll be rewarded with a\n\npuppy who sleeps through the night and doesn’t p*ss on their bed.\n\nDon’t feed your pup any later than 8 pm. Take your pup out for a pee, make sure they go to the toilet, do a training/play session, and put the pup back in the crate. About an hour later, take your pup back out for a pee and make sure they go to the toilet again and put the pup back in the crate. Just before you go to bed, take the pup out again for a pee, make sure they go to the toilet, and then put the pup back in the crate for bed. Your pup may cry for the first few days. You have to ignore this and let them cry it out. Do not get your pup out of their crate while they are crying—the moment you do this, you are teaching them that whining will get them let out. Set your alarm so you wake up every two hours during the night to let your pup out for the toilet. It is not fair to leave them to have an accident because you want a straight eight hours of sleep.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "b2ef894f-7d32-43da-9188-f837c9018f23", "word_count": 330, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 429 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs are naturally hygienic, and it will be distressing for your puppy to spend a night in their own pee. If you notice that your dog is not going\n\nevery two hours, set your alarm every two and a half to three hours and so forth, until you find the right stretch of time.\n\nBy the end of the week, you will have established a nice routine and can begin to push the length of time between pee breaks as your puppy learns to wait until you come to let them out.\n\nIf you live in an apartment: sorry, folks, but you still need to take them\n\nTIP: Get yourself some earplugs so you can more easily ignore any whining. If they\n\nhave had a pee and they are safe in their crate, you don’t need to worry about them—\n\nPuppy biting is probably the top issue we are asked about when it comes to your cute little pup. Puppies are the definition of a walking land shark! As a rule, anything that touches them will go into their mouth, and generally anything they can put their mouth on they will. Now, we must understand that puppy biting is a completely normal behavior. It is their teething phase. We don’t punish puppies for this; we manage it in a way that is beneficial for both the pup and ourselves.\n\nPuppies will bite most when they first wake up and are full of beans, when they are overstimulated, and when they are overtired or frustrated. With this in mind, we want to be one step ahead, so as soon as the pup wakes up, we attach them to a puppy leash, we take the pup into the garden, we wait for them to go to the toilet, we praise this heavily, then we go into a training session. The use of food and/or a small tug toy for these training sessions will help the puppy. We are channeling the energy of the little land shark into something productive.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "89525696-70eb-43c2-86e5-7a574a48e4ef", "word_count": 337, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 438 } }, { "page_content": "After this vigorous training session, we want to give them something to help them calm down and decompress. This is where the use of a chew, bone, or KONG comes into play. Not only will this provide some mental\n\nenrichment for the puppy and help calm them down, it will ease the teething and give them something productive to bite on.\n\nAfter this it is nap time. If the puppy starts to bite you during training sessions or when it first comes out of the crate, this is what the leash is for —you can use the leash to easily hold the dog away from you, lead them to where you want them, or redirect them to chew on something more productive.\n\nYou may have heard that making high-pitched noises will deter puppy biting. Although in rare cases this could work, nine times out of ten it is only going to excite the pup more. Think about a squeaky toy: observe your pup’s reaction when they hear the squeak and see how it excites them. This is the same when a puppy is biting you; a squeal can have an adverse effect. Puppy biting does get easier provided you are consistent. It is unrealistic to expect the pup to never put its mouth on you. Remaining calm will help, and I promise you it gets better in time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "0c394fa2-d948-44b1-b8fb-529af4304ec4", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "So, guys, how are we doing? Ready to start properly training your new puppy? Hopefully, by now, you’ve already started cracking on with a few of the important things: you’ve given them a non-stupid name, you’ve brought them home and maybe even begun to take them outside for a pee, and they’re getting used to their crate and their new surroundings. Awesome work! Now, until your puppy is ten weeks old, you can’t take them out and about in the world. This is to help prevent the spread of a few nasty viruses that can really do a lot of damage to a puppy if they catch them. Puppies are vulnerable and they need their vaccinations, people! So make sure you have been to the vet and done all the necessary stuff to ensure they stay fit and well in these early weeks and months.\n\nCHIP TIP: Consider getting your puppy microchipped as early as eight weeks old. It\n\nmeans if your dog ever gets lost, it can easily be returned to you. Your breeder or rescue\n\ncenter may have microchipped the puppy before they come to you. You need to get the\n\npaperwork, guys! Make sure you have the documents and keep them safe, and if your\n\nIf you are anything like me, you’ll want to get out and about and have adventures with your puppy from the get-go. It can be frustrating to have to\n\nkeep them at home for a little while. But this early incubation period at home is a wicked opportunity to focus on training the basics and building the bond and communication you will need with your pup.\n\nLet’s just have a quick recap over what you need to have in hand to make", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "9f6f8720-473f-47a5-bb6c-a52ba8c40334", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Treat pouch: ideally attached to your belt and with easy access Their daily food allowance: ideally raw or good-quality dry Latex gloves or a squeezy ketchup bottle if you are using them Loads of patience and consistency Poo bags for outside and dog-friendly wipes\n\nBefore we start with specific commands and behaviors, I want to talk about what I think of as the real essence of the way I train dogs: the Art of Attention and the Art of Doing Nothing. These two fundamental concepts form the basis of everything I am teaching you. They aren’t specific commands but more a way of life that comes into everything you do with your pup. Let me explain…\n\nTrying to teach your dog anything without first getting their attention, and secondly keeping it, is next to impossible. You want your puppy to learn that anything fun or exciting they receive comes, first and foremost, because they acknowledge you. When they learn that paying attention to you— usually with direct eye contact—leads to all the good things in life that they like, such as food and fun and fuss, you become the best thing since sliced bread, or dried turkey necks anyway!\n\nFor example, if you ask your puppy to sit before going for a walk, you have asked them to pay attention to you—they do it, so you go for a walk. Your puppy has learned that paying attention to you (looking at you and eye contact) and doing what you have asked them has enabled the walk to start. They begin to realize you’re kind of important. It’s why when you watch", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "77973d55-71bd-48a9-8758-8e8077285213", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "dogs competing at high levels, they all have their eyes fixed on their owners as they go around the course or do whatever is being asked of them. Attention is the foundation of all the behaviors you are trying to teach your dog here.\n\nIn a moment, we’ll learn about how to get that attention and the different ways you can reward and motivate your puppy to consistently pay attention to you. For now, I just want you to keep the Art of Attention in mind as you progress through each paragraph and notice how it comes into everything I teach.\n\nThis might sound self-explanatory, but it’s more complex and important than it sounds. We all need to switch off sometimes and puppies are no different. But because you are literally their whole world right now, it’s sometimes hard for puppies to feel secure enough to know that it’s OK to do nothing for a bit and that you will still be there when that rest time is over. Some dogs are naturals at switching off, and others need to be shown how to relax.\n\nYou will already have been practicing this by using their crate and putting them in there at the end of their training and play sessions. You will also have been teaching them the DOWN stay, and using your GOOD marker to increase the duration of that stay (this is explained later). But the Art of Doing Nothing (AODN) is more than telling your puppy to lie down; they need to understand that there are times when you want them to switch off and just chill out.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "c3a97e55-8ddb-4d0f-9df3-4bec44f5c758", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "The AODN can happen anywhere at home. As they get older, you will start to introduce a dog bed and—depending on the kind of person you are —the sofa. (People ask me all the time if puppies should be allowed on the sofa or the bed, and the short answer is: it’s up to you! There’s a whole FAQ section at the back of the book that touches on this and other commonly asked questions.) Wherever it is that your dog chills out, this is where they need to understand the Art of Doing Nothing.\n\nAnd it’s not just for at home. The AODN is a useful skill to have wherever you are with your puppy. For example, you might take your puppy for a walk with a friend and decide to stop by the local pub for lunch on the way home. Being able to reliably know that you can enjoy your\n\nlunch without your puppy running around in circles and causing havoc is a beautiful thing, people. Teaching your dog this is basic good manners for them and for all the people you encounter on your daily travels—be it in a pub, on a train station platform, or a doctor’s office waiting room— wherever other people are just getting on with their business and don’t want to be terrorized by a crazy puppy!\n\nLike the Art of Attention, the Art of Doing Nothing isn’t a command you can train your dog to perform; it’s a life skill for your puppy, and a concept you can keep in mind as we go through this training section. Got all of that? Awesome! Let’s go.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "6af27b20-1610-4eae-b56f-3809603b8696", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "With most of my methods, you’ll learn to use rewards to build motivation. Most often, this is going to be food from their daily allowance, but if you are worried about making that last, you don’t want to have the treat pouch on you for some reason, or you just don’t have access to decent treats, there are other ways to reward and motivate your puppy. Toys and puzzles can be equally pleasing to your puppy, so there’s never any excuse for not rewarding the right behavior, guys!\n\nIf they get it wrong, be patient and understand that it’s your job to teach them. They don’t know sh*t about this human world! Remember, this is a blank canvas, and you are painting your masterpiece!\n\nTIP: Use empty coffeepots or jam jars (or whatever the frik you like) to keep their food\n\nin different rooms around the house. This way, you’re never going to run out of rewards!\n\nJust make sure you count it as part of their daily allowance.\n\nYou will already have been saying your puppy’s name to them a fair bit at this stage—I hope you have, anyway! So this shouldn’t be a big thing, but\n\nlet’s just stop and think about what it actually means to them when we say it.\n\nYour puppy doesn’t think, “Oh, great, my name is Leo; I’m really pleased they called me Leo. That’s my favorite name.” And when he meets other dogs in the park, he doesn’t go up to them and extend a paw and say, “Hi, mate, I’m Leo. How you doing?”", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "02143ac9-962d-42ad-b60c-062d0892337e", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "To your puppy, their name is a sound that usually tells them you need their attention, and that comes with a reward—at this stage. It’s also a sound they will hear over and over for the rest of their lives. And like any of us hearing something over and over, puppies can become kind of desensitized to their name and lose the joy of hearing it. Worse, if their name is something they only hear in association with trouble, they’ll start to fear and actively avoid the sound of it. This will make recall training very, very difficult.\n\nWhen this happens, you begin to find that dogs stop paying attention to you when you say their name. And if you’ve got a dog who isn’t interested when you say their name, you’ve got some serious training trouble on your hands, my friends. So my message here is to keep a positive tone in your voice when you say their name. Keep it light and fun. In a moment, we’re going to look at other ways you can get, keep, and reward their attention (Just Say Yes), but for now your job is simply to keep that name giving them happy thoughts and feelings when you say it. And if you’re not sure they’ve got it yet, go back over the technique we learned in chapter 4: Name. Reward. Name. Reward. Name. Reward, etc. Repeat until it sticks.\n\nWith a second dog in the house, it’s important you use their individual names so they know you’re talking to them. But once you’ve gotten their attention, you don’t need to say their name repeatedly. It becomes a nag— and no one likes a nagging Nelly!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "b771279a-cc58-43c4-9b72-17bdce73ab25", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "On your markers | Marker training and why it matters\n\nGOOD—Continue doing what you’re doing, I will come to you to give you your reward\n\nI use markers to train all my dogs, puppies, and adults alike. Never heard of marker training? Maybe you’ve heard of clickers? Some people like to use clickers, which are also markers, but I prefer to use spoken words. That way, I never find myself out without the clicker, plus I think it reinforces the bond between the dog and me. They respond to a voice more than a click. Anyway, the point is, I’m a big proponent of marker training, and the reason for this is simple: the difference between marker-trained dogs and non-marker-trained dogs is like night and day. A marker-trained dog understands at all times what is being asked of them. They do the right thing, you feel happy, they feel happy, and everyone’s a winner.\n\nSo now I’ve sold it to you, you’re probably thinking, “OK, what is marker training then?” Don’t worry, you will not be drawing on your puppy with a Sharpie!\n\nMarkers are simply keywords that let your dog know they’ve done something good (like SIT) or they’re currently doing something good (for example, DOWN), and they’re going to get a reward. Markers help your dog understand what’s expected of them. They give your dog clarity. You will be saying a marker word after every command you give your dog to reinforce its meaning. There are three markers listed below.\n\nYES is basically about rewarding your dog for doing the right thing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "55775f89-2041-4311-a494-319e076eaa66", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "Getting and maintaining their attention before you give them their favorite toy or food—anything they like—will ensure that you become the center of their universe. But puppies are busy little bees and easily distracted, so you need to learn and practice the art of getting and keeping their attention, guys. Practice this exercise until you can reliably say your puppy knows that looking at you is what needs to happen before any reward comes their way.\n\nNOTE: YES is not a command or a request for them to do something; it’s a confirmation that they have done what you wanted them to do, such as SIT or DOWN. I’m using SIT in this scenario because you have already taught your puppy to sit.\n\nGet your dog’s favorite food in your fingers. Tell your dog to SIT—wait for them to sit. Wait for them to look at you (direct eye contact required). Step back and say YES as you give your dog a treat to reward them.\n\nNow that you’ve started introducing YES to your puppy’s vocabulary,\n\nthere are two other important marker words: GOOD and BREAK.\n\nThis is what’s called a duration marker. This means the dog is doing what you have asked them to do and you want them to continue doing it. Unlike YES, where your puppy comes to you for their reward and the behavior is over, with GOOD, you take the reward to them to encourage them to continue the good behavior, i.e., a duration sit.\n\nThis is a signal that the exercise is over. Saying BREAK to your dog means they are free to go and do what they like for a bit.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 53, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "804556f7-ad7f-4f8b-a6e9-04ff041bedb3", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "To help you understand how marker words are used, here’s a scenario\n\nAsk your puppy to SIT. Say GOOD (because you want the sit to continue) and take your dog a reward when their butt hits the floor. Sometimes you may have to repeat the command SIT to maintain the sit position (more on SIT on this page). When your puppy makes direct eye contact, say YES and step back, which will bring your pup out of the SIT as they come to you to get the reward. If you want to keep them in a SIT, say SIT, give them a treat, and then\n\nadd GOOD (because you want them to continue sitting). When you feel like your puppy has held the SIT long enough, say YES, step back, and reward the dog. If you want to let them know the exercise is over, say BREAK and throw a treat for them to go and find.\n\nYES: they come to you GOOD: you go to them BREAK: is a free dog\n\nGoing forward, you’re going to hear me telling you to mark and reward a lot. When your pup has done something you like, you need to mark it. Which marker word you use will depend on how you want them to behave. YES, come to you for a reward; GOOD, stay there while you go to them for a reward; BREAK, take a break and do their own thing for a bit. Remember: always mark and reward a behavior you like!\n\nYou need to know some basic commands so you can manage life safely and happily with both your puppy and the adult dog they will become. I will talk you through these one by one in a second, but I just want to flag that there is no linear approach here—you can practice any of these commands during any training session. They are all important, so be sure you mix them up and practice them equally during your puppy’s daily routine.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "0a0498b7-779a-4332-aa3f-d4cdc52fdd30", "word_count": 334, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 434 } }, { "page_content": "Your tone of voice is really important when it comes to training your puppy. Dogs tend to respond best to strong, single-syllable commands (that’s why we say SIT to them, not “please be seated”). When your puppy has done\n\nsomething you’ve asked them to, you want to relay this in your tone of voice. This is when you can be high-pitched and happy in your tone.\n\nHowever, when your puppy is unsure, or if you are communicating that you would like them to do something, try to deliver your words in a tone that leaves no room for doubt. I’m not saying you need to shout at them, but remember that dogs communicate in barks. I’m not asking you to bark—but again, remember that barks come in short, single-syllable bursts. Use a firm, short manner that lets them know what’s being expected of them and you can get to the happy bit much quicker.\n\nHow you move and how your body occupies the space you and your dog share plays a massive part in how your puppy responds to you. On a simplistic level, asking your puppy to lie down but pointing up to the sky will send a confusing message to them. So try to always think about the signals you use when communicating with them. But more than this, body language is about your physical presence and what it represents to your pup. If you want your puppy to drop something or stop doing something, standing behind them, talking on the phone while you are waving at them, or generally making your presence smaller to them will probably not get your message across. Standing in front of them, firm and confident, so that they can see that you mean what you are saying lets them know this is a nonnegotiable request.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 55, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "599e71b5-3863-451a-a2df-d30b0bab4431", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "For example, if your puppy jumps up at you, you might instinctively move backward to get out of their way. This will get you out of their space for a few seconds, but it will never stop the jumping—you are simply making yourself a moving (and even more fun!) target for your puppy. Whereas, if you move forward and actually step into their space, you’ll find that they stop jumping up at you. You have taken ownership of the space as opposed to giving it up by moving backward. Guys, let me be clear: heavy- handedness and physical aggression toward a puppy is NEVER OK. But you can use your body language to assert yourself and communicate with your puppy when you want them to do something.\n\nThis is probably the most basic command you will teach your pup, but it’s also one of the most useful, and all dogs should know it.\n\nYou need SIT because you want to be able to keep your puppy in one place at times, perhaps because you want them to calm down before they do something else, or because you need to know they’re in a safe place for a minute while you answer the door or whatever it is. SIT means they sit and should stay sitting until released or given further instructions. The stay is implied. I never use the word stay; it’s unnecessary in dog training. “Sit” means sit, and “Down” means down. Let’s not overcomplicate things by adding “Stay!”\n\nWith a treat in your fingers, hold it to your puppy’s nose and slowly raise it above their head. As their head goes up, their butt should go down. Once this happens, wait for them to look at you, mark and reward with YES, step back, and give the dog a reward.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "4c5b2f0e-7a37-4e3e-8cd6-2cad6eb01c9c", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Notice how we have added the marker word YES to the command SIT. This lets your puppy know that they have done the right thing and can now have a reward. Once your dog is fluent in the SIT action, you can add in the duration marker GOOD (where they continue to hold the SIT until you come to them with the reward) to build the duration of the SIT. Sometimes you might want your puppy to remain in the SIT while you go to answer the door or pop out of sight for a moment for whatever reason. You can practice putting some distance between you and your puppy while they are doing SIT by trying this:\n\nAsk your puppy to SIT, take a step back, say GOOD, and give them a reward. Repeat this, but next time, take two steps back before you say GOOD. Next time, take three steps before you say GOOD, and so on.\n\nWhen you have enough distance, wait for your puppy to look at you, say\n\nYES, and they will come running to you for the reward.\n\nTo put it simply: SIT YES REWARD For a next-level exercise, introduce the other markers and rewards to\n\nDOWN is one of the most important commands you will teach your puppy. Just as SIT means SIT until further notice, DOWN also means DOWN until you’re released or given further instructions. DOWN is especially useful because if your pup knows DOWN means DOWN anywhere, you can use this to help them relax and understand what is happening in new environments, i.e., in the pub, in restaurants, at friends’ houses, or outside a shop. It helps you and your puppy chill out in so many situations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 50, "id": "504e3a29-a13e-4968-84e4-6515b98f63f2", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "With your treat in your fingers, hold it to your puppy’s nose and slowly lower the treat toward the floor. You may need to move the treat along the floor toward you, to encourage their butt to touch the floor. The moment their butt goes down and you are sure all four legs are down, say YES, step back, and reward your dog. Repeat.\n\nNotice again how you have acknowledged their correct action with the marker word YES and rewarded them for doing the right thing. DOWN can be a tricky behavior to teach, guys. Make sure your dog is on a leash while you are teaching them. You can also apply very gentle pressure to their back and gentle leash guidance in a downward motion (and I really do mean gentle pressure—too much pressure, and your puppy will freak out and resist).\n\nTIP: Remember your markers, guys! If you want to build the duration of DOWN (i.e.,\n\nkeep them there for longer) and/or build in some distance (i.e., walk into another room\n\nor to the door), use your GOOD marker word. When you feel they have been in DOWN\n\nfor long enough, say YES, and they will come to you for their reward.\n\nTo put it simply: DOWN YES REWARD For a next-level exercise, introduce the other markers and rewards to\n\nYou have already been practicing this command without knowing it! The YES marker and your puppy’s name suggest to your pup that they should come to you for a reward. So you have done some of the work already. COME is essential if you hope one day to have your puppy off the leash, running around in the woods or on the beach.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 58, "chunk_index": 51, "id": "d703eee6-7066-4ce7-8210-38928ce3b7b9", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "The trick with COME is to avoid setting yourself up to fail by trying to teach your dog in a situation when they can physically ignore you. Teach them this word when they are on a leash so that if they ignore you because they’re distracted, you can gently pull the dog toward you to show them you want them to COME. This way, there are no negotiations.\n\nTo practice COME, simply call your dog’s name and say COME; as soon\n\nas the dog starts to come toward you, mark it with YES and reward.\n\nTo put it simply: NAME. COME YES REWARD KEY POINT: One of the most irresponsible things a dog owner can do is let their puppy off the leash with no recall; it puts your dog and others at risk every time you unclip that leash.\n\nBeing able to go for an enjoyable walk with your dog doesn’t happen by magic—leash walking requires practice to make perfect. Many reactivity- based issues come about simply because your puppy has not learned how to behave on the leash when outside of your home. Proper leash walking teaches your puppy to be calm and to follow you (which will help with recall), and when done properly, it’s a great bonding experience.\n\nReactivity in a dog is a catchall term for when they react to certain simulations or stimuli. It’s not about aggression, although it can show up as this in some dogs if not handled correctly. Reactivity can look like barking, lunging, crouching down in a stalkerish kind of a position, whining, chewing—it can be anything that seems out of the ordinary. Your dog can be reactive to humans or other animals, or it can be reactive to certain environments or sounds—it all depends on the dog and their genetics, socialization experiences, and pretty much everything else.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 52, "id": "02bb2346-c64e-44f4-898f-2e84c66d5d7c", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "As I’ve already said, with a puppy you have a blank canvas on which to paint your masterpiece. My training methods with puppies are all about preventing reactivity and avoiding those difficult behaviors before they set in. Why? Because as I’m writing this, Leo (the massive Rottweiler who you see on the cover of this book) is chilling out at my feet, just doing his own thing while I work, not bothering me or feeling stressed about anything. He’s happy in his own skin and feels safe and secure. This hasn’t happened by magic; it’s because we have done everything that I am teaching you in this book. So keep reading!\n\nNow, with teaching a puppy leash walking, I don’t believe in being overly strict. I’m not looking for that militant-looking walk with the dog walking perfectly by my side, staring up at my face the whole time. The main focus at this stage should be on allowing the pup to explore and take in the world, to build their knowledge and confidence. So my only real requirement with puppy leash walking is for them not to pull.\n\nWhen they get to the adolescent mark at around six months, you can start adding in a lot more structure, like having your puppy walk by your side at HEEL for ten minutes or so before allowing the dog time to sniff and explore as a reward—we’ll come to the HEEL command and adding structure later on in Adolescence on this page.)\n\nSo, guys, here’s the thing—the easiest way to stop your dog from pulling as you walk is to not reinforce pulling. By this I mean if you continue to move forward (walk) while they’re putting tension on the leash (pulling), your puppy will quickly learn that pulling creates a forward motion—and you are basically reinforcing pulling. So stop leash pulling with a puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 53, "id": "76a94c77-8d1a-4de5-96b5-5e4b599343d0", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "I want you to follow this simple rule: you stop when there is tension on\n\nWhen you feel your puppy’s leash go slack, you mark and reward with YES and lure them to your left side with a treat and then continue to move forward. (This is known as free shaping. We’re teaching them to heel before we even say the word to them.) Repeat this as much as necessary, even if you are in a rush or feel like an idiot standing in the road or stopping every two steps. Stop caring about everyone else’s thoughts and focus on what your puppy needs to learn. The only reason this method doesn’t work is that people are not patient enough to stop every time until their puppy learns not to pull. But remember, what might take you an hour today will take you 50\n\nminutes tomorrow, then 45, and so forth until it becomes second nature to your puppy.\n\nFor the best results, practice leash walking inside the house at first, ideally in a non-distracting environment like a hallway (not a room full of food or children). Try to ensure your puppy is calm when they see the leash (no jumping around or getting excited—that goes for you and the dog). Work on your puppy’s understanding of thresholds before leaving the house. If you have a very energetic dog, a quick play session with a ball or flirt pole before the walk will get out some of their pent-up energy and make for an easier walk. Once your puppy has their vaccinations and you start going out with them, master walking up and down your street before taking them to a completely new and distracting environment (like a dog park).", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 54, "id": "c5202e90-bb6e-4420-9ff5-ce4cdf9c13b3", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Again, LEAVE IT is one of the most important things to teach your puppy; this can be the difference between life and death. The average home is full of small items just waiting for a puppy to chew and choke on. Phone chargers, hairbrushes, shoes…you get the idea. And when you begin to get out and about, the potential for disaster only increases. Imagine being with your puppy and he picks up a cooked chicken bone but doesn’t understand what LEAVE IT means. Things could very quickly go south for your pup. Every single dog on the planet must understand what LEAVE IT means; there are no exceptions.\n\nTo teach LEAVE IT, I like to use things the dog can’t have, like a kid’s toy. Soft toys like small teddy bears are great because they also look like small animals, making them doubly desirable to your curious puppy. Begin with your puppy on the leash and let them know you’ve got the toy, then throw it a short distance, somewhere they can still see it. They will instantly\n\ntry to run over to investigate the flying teddy. Use your leash to gently hold your puppy back and say the words LEAVE IT as you prevent them from getting to the toy. As soon as you feel the leash relax—meaning they have stopped trying to reach the toy—use the marker YES to let them know they have done the right thing, and they can come to you for a reward.\n\nRinse and repeat with many different items in different areas of the home, and for best results, practice this at random times so that your dog understands this command applies in all situations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 55, "id": "8ed1bd68-444a-451d-a239-35b297f029a3", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Thresholds are doors, gates, car trunks, crates, driveways, and any exit or entry your dog will pass through in its lifetime. It is extremely important, and for me as a trainer nonnegotiable, that you teach dogs how to respect thresholds. The rule here is plain and simple: an open door does NOT mean your puppy can automatically run through it. Thresholds are quite a complex concept for your puppy to grasp. We live in homes with rooms that have doorways and entrances where, most of the time, you don’t need to prevent them from moving freely through them (unless you especially want to). But front doors, back gates, crates, car doors/trunks, and any new environments that can pose a potential danger—or cause chaos on the other side—are a must-train. If you live near a road, failure to establish a clear understanding of thresholds could result in injury or even death of your beloved new puppy.\n\nMake sure your puppy is on their long training leash so that if they somehow make it past you,\n\nStand between your puppy and the threshold you are working on (a back door onto a garden is\n\nideal for this initial training as you don’t risk your puppy being distracted or tempted by traffic\n\nor passersby). Slowly open the door and then, if your pup goes to move forward, close the\n\nRepeat this. Your aim is to have your puppy remain in their position while you open the door.\n\nWait for their eye contact (art of attention), and then, if it is safe and you are ready, walk\n\nthrough the threshold while giving further instructions (saying “Let’s go” or something similar", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 56, "id": "6e704cd7-bead-40ee-8e0b-54406ad1eb38", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "TIP: There are plenty of times when an open door won’t mean walkies are imminent.\n\nMaybe you are picking up a parcel that’s been left on the front step or you’ve opened\n\nthe car trunk to put something in but don’t want them to jump out and run off into the\n\ndistance. Practice opening doors at random times without actually letting your dog pass\n\nGrooming is an essential part of training your puppy, and there are no exceptions. This is not about putting their hair in a bow or giving them fluffy ankles; it’s about giving your puppy the basic care and maintenance they need. It’s also about helping them learn to be comfortable with being handled.\n\nDogs come in all shapes and sizes, so your puppy’s breed will play a big part in their grooming requirements. A Border terrier with a thick, wiry coat and oily follicles that can become blocked and irritated will need to be hand-stripped. This is where the groomer removes the dead hairs from their coat by hand instead of clippers. However, a breed with a shorter, smoother coat, like a Staffordshire bull terrier, will be fine with just a quick brush when it comes to coat maintenance.\n\nGrooming is a real craft, and a decent dog groomer can make life a lot easier for you, especially with a dog whose coat needs a lot of maintenance. I recommend you find yourself a good groomer as soon as you get your puppy (they can start being groomed as soon as they’ve had their second round of vaccinations, around ten to twelve weeks). Don’t forget to build those costs into the picture when you are weighing up the affordability of a dog, folks. This is an essential service, so you can’t skimp on it. The good news is it can save you money on vets’ fees in the long run, because a good", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 57, "id": "b65fd717-3a40-42f7-9e6e-353905bfa5f8", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "groomer (along with a healthy balanced diet) will help prevent many of the problems associated with skin and coat maintenance. So it balances out.\n\nOf course, successful grooming is a two-way street. A good groomer is worth their weight in gold, but it will always help them do their job better if you can raise a desensitized puppy, by which I mean one that is completely chilled out about being handled. So, before your puppy goes to the groomer, they should ideally be happy to be handled all over, have their paws and tails held, their coats brushed, and used to having human hands in areas such as their mouth and ears.\n\nIt’s easy to introduce basic grooming to your pup from the get-go, and you should aim to set aside time for mini-grooming sessions, where you practice stroking, touching, holding, and brushing your puppy. If they’ve got floppy ears, you can gently lift them, as well as lifting their top lip to get them used to the idea that, sometimes, you want to look at their teeth. Do all of this in very short sessions with lots and lots of rewards and praise— again, this is always made easier if you are hand-feeding your dog. But not to worry if you aren’t hand-feeding; high-quality training treats will help do the job!\n\nGrooming is also a great opportunity to check for any abnormal lumps and bumps, which if found you should let your vet know about immediately. Your vet will also appreciate your efforts with grooming—a dog who is not accustomed to being handled can find visits to the vet extremely stressful and traumatic.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 58, "id": "f45e118b-b594-421a-a345-e8c86ed0b5ff", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "It’s easy to assume that dirty dogs need to be washed and bathed, but washing their coats with products can be detrimental to your puppy’s coat and can actually mean you have to wash them more frequently. Dogs have natural oils in their coats that help keep them clean; too much bathing strips the oils, leaving the hair more susceptible to damage, and making them look lackluster. It’s a vicious cycle. Dogs just don’t need shampoo, guys!\n\nA decent, balanced diet will ensure your puppy’s coat looks great. If they get covered in mud, and you really need to clean them up, a simple wash with lukewarm water and a good brush is all they need.\n\nAs with their coats, puppies’ claws are pretty self-regulating, and for most of them, daily exposure to pavements, patios, and other hard surfaces is enough to keep them in check (my Rottweiler, Daisy, was a senior before we ever had to trim her claws). However, sometimes their claws can get a bit long and make life difficult for you when handling them as they can scratch.\n\nLong, uncomfortable claws can also affect their foot placement and the way they walk, and occasionally a dew claw (the big toe/thumb claw located farther up the limb) can be loosely attached, so it’s always worth keeping an eye on your puppy’s claws and dealing with any problems swiftly. You can buy claw trimmers for dogs, but I recommend you let your groomer do this if needed. A wrong clip can lead to bleeding and a traumatic experience for your pup. This is a job that is better left to the experts, especially when puppies are young and wriggly!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 59, "id": "b27bb685-d965-45fd-9769-808ccf5a27c8", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "By the time your puppy is 12 weeks old, they should have had their second round of vaccinations—this means it’s safe for them to get out and about in the real world, and your adventures together can really begin! The first and most important thing you need to do at this stage is to keep your expectations low. Remember, you can’t expect perfect puppy obedience straight off the bat here. For now, I want you to focus on making all of these first experiences feel positive and motivating for your pup.\n\nYour puppy’s first walks out in the world will be a sensory overload. All the new sights, sounds, smells, and sensations are likely overwhelming, so take it slow! You will already have been practicing leash walking in the house, and your puppy should be accustomed to the leash being on. An ideal first walk would be to simply continue the leash walking you’ve already been doing by walking up and down your road or around the grounds of your apartment.\n\nIf your pup stops, let them stop. If your pup wants to sniff, let them sniff. If you feel like your pup is scared or panicking (they might be shaking or physically cowering or whimpering), try to let them go through the motions and find their confidence. Please, do not mollycoddle your puppy! Don’t talk in a baby voice to them, stroke them, or pick them up if and when they look scared. Instead, simply take a deep breath, shorten the leash, wait for\n\nyour puppy to check in with you (eye contact), and then carry on with your walk. Your puppy has learned to stay calm through moments of fear, and the art of attention has let them know you have their back.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 60, "id": "4a0f689d-5a78-46dd-9af8-08982ddfe54a", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Mark and reward: During your first few walks in the world with your puppy, make sure you mark and reward any good behaviors you ask for, or that your puppy presents to you voluntarily, especially the art of attention. If they are regularly checking in and making eye contact with you, reward that with a YES or a GOOD and a treat to let them know you like this behavior. Poo bags: Don’t forget your poo bags, people, and always clean up after your dog. When your puppy goes to the toilet when you are on a walk, always mark and reward them. This way, they learn that good things happen when they do their business while they are out and about, and you have less poo to deal with in your back garden.\n\nAs your puppy becomes more confident outside, you can start taking them to new places. Because owning a dog isn’t always about going on long walks at the beach or in the countryside; you might need to walk your dog with you alongside the stroller on the school run or take them in the car when you pop over to the supermarket. Many tradespeople take their dogs to work, so their puppies need to get used to being in the van. If you care for an elderly relative, your puppy needs to know their house. I’ve put together a checklist of new and familiar places to expose your puppy to.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 61, "id": "a0246ea9-7dc0-4720-8f52-f3245c308033", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "As with their first walks, you mustn’t expect miracles when you put your puppy in these new places for the first time. With puppies, it’s all about patience and repetition. Take the time to practice all the things you have been working on indoors at these new places so that your puppy doesn’t only associate them with being at home. SIT, DOWN, LEAVE IT, and COME can all be worked on at the park or waiting at the school gate or wherever you are. Keep the marker words and rewards coming and watch as your puppy’s confidence grows and grows.\n\nPlease remember that your puppy is still a baby at this stage. You wouldn’t expect a baby to go on long walks as soon as they take their first steps! In the same way, you can’t expect your puppy to keep going for hours all day with you just because they’ve now had all their vaccinations. So as with your indoor training sessions, keep your new adventures in the real world short and sweet for now, and always build in plenty of time for your puppy to rest. As with humans, rest is crucial for their growth, and it’s when they download all that new information they’re taking in all the time. Remember, you’ve got a whole lifetime with this animal by your side; there is plenty of time!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 62, "id": "bc94e88e-bb62-4267-8306-e51841e5c6a3", "word_count": 229, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 297 } }, { "page_content": "As you begin to get out and about with your puppy, there is one thing you are definitely going to come across that they are going to be extremely interested in (or extremely scared of), and that is other dogs. Once you become a dog owner, you notice that dogs are EVERYWHERE. And if you are at the park or in an area where people walk their dogs a lot, you will encounter many adult dogs who are not on leashes. For many puppies, the sight of an adult dog bounding over to them at high speed can be terrifying and lead to long-term fear of other dogs. As your puppy’s only source of protection and confidence, you need to prevent this from happening.\n\nI hear it over and over, “It’s OK, they’re friendly!” People let their off-leash dog come running over to yours, and it starts sniffing around or humping your dog and jumping all over them. When people shout this to me as their dog invades my dog’s space, I always know that what they are really saying is that they can’t control their dog. Someone shouting “It’s OK, they’re friendly!” from across the park is shouting this because their dog has no recall—their dog is basically not trained, and their dog’s face up your puppy’s butt is risky business.\n\nAs soon as you see an adult dog bounding over to your puppy, I want you to put your puppy behind you and form a protective shield between your\n\npuppy and the other dog. A stern stamp of the foot and (if you’re like me) a firm “F*ck off” should deter the off-leash dog. But if it isn’t enough to shoo the other dog away, you have to be prepared to grab and push them away. Your new puppy is forming trust with you, and the quickest way to destroy that trust is for you to allow them to have a bad experience when you are meant to be looking out for them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 68, "chunk_index": 63, "id": "b7e405f9-7f46-476f-91a5-d2e155a61a50", "word_count": 335, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 435 } }, { "page_content": "Ideally, other dog owners should ask if it is OK for their dog to come and say hello to your puppy. If someone has been well-mannered enough to ask this, and providing their dog seems to be calm and under control—and if it’s something you actually want to happen—then by all means allow them to come and say hello.\n\nI always like to keep to the three-second rule while out with a young puppy. It massively reduces the risk of them having a bad experience.\n\nHere’s an example: the owner of an off-leash dog has asked if their dog can come over and say hello to your puppy. You have agreed, but it’s the first time your puppy has met such a big dog and you’re not sure what will happen. They start sniffing each other. Count in your head for three seconds: 1, 2, 3. Call your puppy back to you and use your leash as a lure if they don’t come back at first. Mark and reward them for returning to you, even while a new dog distracted them. If they seemed to like the other dog, there is nothing to stop you from reintroducing them in a few minutes.\n\nKeeping it short and sweet with the three-second rule ensures that none of the dogs become overstimulated, and you don’t end up with two wildly hyper dogs bowling over each other. It also teaches your young puppy the importance of impulse control and the need to respond to you (the art of attention, guys!) even when distracted by a big, exciting new friend. And it ensures that you remain your puppy’s favorite thing. Other dogs can very quickly become more fun than you, and if this notion builds and builds over time, you can end up with a dog who is always more interested in other dogs than you. Remember, your focus between now and adolescence", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 64, "id": "6cfd2e8d-df4e-41c9-a966-3316784b678f", "word_count": 318, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 413 } }, { "page_content": "(roughly six months of age) should be on having fun with your dog as you work through the socialization checklist.\n\nBefore we jump into socialization, I just want to tell you about fear imprint periods. Never heard of a puppy fear imprint period? It is really important that you know about these! A fear imprint period is something that happens to a puppy, usually between eight to eleven weeks old, and just around the time you are bringing them home. It can happen twice in some dogs— usually, the second time comes around six months. During these imprint periods, your dog can become spooked by the strangest things. My Rottweiler, Daisy, got really freaked out by statues and overflowing garbage cans, while a Patterdale terrier I know was terrified of gates. They can become irrationally scared of all sorts of stuff, but the important thing to remember is that the thing that is freaking them out isn’t the issue. What matters is your response to it.\n\nWe can screw dogs up in these important periods of their lives by making a big deal of whatever it is they are scared of, avoiding certain situations, or mollycoddling the dog and pulling them close when they get scared. Your efforts to reassure a dog who is scared of a kid’s bike by pulling them back and telling them it’s OK might make sense to you, but to the dog it only amplifies their sense of caution and fear. They learn to be afraid of the bike and continue to bark and growl at every kid on a bike they see, forevermore. Not ideal.\n\nRemember: I would be out of a job if telling a dog “It’s OK” was enough.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 65, "id": "de2e053b-b637-49a8-85c9-772cce6aba52", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "In these moments, we need to laugh off the fear, play it down, and give them the confidence they need. When I realized that Daisy was scared of a massive statue of a doughnut at my local sea life center, I walked confidently with her back and forth in front of it, ignoring her whimpers until eventually she got the idea that this giant piece of confectionery wasn’t going to kill her. She went on to become one of the most confident dogs I’ve ever known.\n\nGOLDEN RULE: If your puppy is acting scared of something, do not try to “comfort” them in the way you might a human being. Instead, lead by\n\nexample and show them they have nothing to fear. Slow down and take deep breaths. It’s a phase—don’t overthink it.\n\nSocialization is about teaching your dog how to be comfortable and content in the real world, be it around humans, other dogs, noises, smells, or any other distractions they may encounter. Proper socialization is incredibly important, as a dog who doesn’t feel confident and relaxed around new people and experiences can become fearful and reactive, and this leads to all sorts of problems that you really don’t need in your life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 66, "id": "456e545f-62b1-41b4-93b9-ee9d3dc17eae", "word_count": 204, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 265 } }, { "page_content": "So, as far as I’m concerned, all dogs must be properly and thoroughly socialized; there are no exceptions. A lot of people think socializing a puppy means they just need to take their dog out a lot and let it meet loads of people and other dogs, and that will be fine. But contrary to this belief, letting your puppy meet everything and everyone it comes across is not what socialization is about. Socialization is something that needs to be approached seriously as a key part of your puppy’s training schedule. For that reason, I like to break it down into three key areas that can easily be worked through. These are: environmental, animal, and human. Let’s have a closer look.\n\nEnvironmental doesn’t only mean taking your pup out to plenty of different places and spaces—although this is massively important. It’s also about letting them experience different kinds of weather, temperatures, and terrains—so, yes, that means you’ve got to get your gear on and get outside even when it’s pouring!\n\nOne of the big mistakes I regularly see people make with their dogs is to only take them to the same place every day. How boring is that! It is not only unfulfilling for you and the dog, but it is also not helping your dog learn how to be cool in new situations. Sure, you might think you’ve got a dog who is well-behaved in the field you take them to every day. But if that field of grass is the only place they ever go to outside of their home, your dog is going to totally lose their sh*t if you take them to a new park or field one day. They will be so absorbed in the new experience that they will", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 67, "id": "2f23ad51-eeb5-46f5-acd1-88c83fdbe9a6", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "struggle to pay attention to you (remember the Art of Attention?). And that, my friends, is when things start to go wrong.\n\nProper environmental exposure is about taking your dog to many different places and letting them see, feel, and experience as many different sights, sounds, and smells as possible. It’s about getting out in the rain, snow, wind, and sunshine, walking through muddy fields and busy town centers, along open beaches, and through thick, dense woods. It’s also about pubs, shops, buses, and just about anywhere else you can think of that you’ll be taking your puppy, no matter how frequently or infrequently.\n\nWe’ve all seen, and probably laughed at, dogs who are afraid to walk through puddles and across certain surfaces, or dogs who are terrified of loud bangs or heavy traffic. Whatever it is they’re scared of, it’s because they were never exposed to these things (socialized) at a young age. You are building their confidence and character by taking your dog to all these new places and allowing them to take in the world through their nose at their own pace. And remember, socialization is something you can do at the same time as all the obedience training that you learned in chapter 5. The more you can practice your SIT, DOWN, COME, and LEAVE IT commands in new and different places, the more able to function in any situation your dog will be.\n\nTake a look at the checklist on this page and simply work your way\n\nthrough it by taking your puppy for walks to all of the places mentioned.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 68, "id": "30c9cf08-bfad-488c-b6c7-cdd565490d28", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Tip: If your pup gets nervous in a new place, don’t panic. Don’t mollycoddle them and for f*ck’s sake don’t tell them “It’s OK” like they understand what that means! In the nicest sense, in this situation, I really just want you to shut the f*ck up! When your puppy freaks out, people tend to try to humanize them and reassure them, but this only worsens things. You need to stop for a second, shorten your puppy’s leash, take a deep breath, wait for the dog to stop panicking, and then move on. This way, the fear doesn’t win and your puppy’s ability to handle strange and stressful situations grows.\n\nCity dogs and country dogs—a few things to consider\n\nYour puppy’s breed and characteristics often stem from the environment they were originally bred to work and thrive in. Terriers and collies are dogs who worked the land, Labradors were bred for assistance, and lapdogs for\n\nlooking nice on someone’s lap. If you live in a busy city and find yourself in possession of a big St. Bernard—a dog originally bred for Alpine rescues— it’s a good idea to make sure they are given at least some opportunities to fulfill their breed’s instincts and experience the environments they are designed to thrive in. With a St. Bernard, you might make hilly walks a priority, and with a terrier, let them access some outdoor terrain where they can really put their speed and determination to good use. Equally, a small dog with little legs and a lack of stamina, like a miniature dachshund or a Chihuahua, is not going to love long muddy walks in the country, so walks along nice even pavements where they can get into their stride are going to be more enjoyable for them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 69, "id": "3de043a4-b55b-466c-8f64-7bcf6a6cc17d", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "Wherever you live, if you have a city dog, it is important you teach them how to behave in rural settings, and if you live in the country, make sure your dog experiences urban settings occasionally. Even if these are not regular situations for them, it all gets them more prepared for certain situations.\n\nYou might automatically assume this means getting your puppy used to other dogs, which is a large part of it, but it’s more about helping your dog know how to behave in the presence of other animals, including dogs. There are a lot of animals about! Especially if you live somewhere rural where animals like horses, cows, and sheep are a regular part of daily life. But even in the most urban setting, there are a surprising number of animals in our everyday lives, from other domestic pets like cats and hamsters, to the birds we see in the park, as well as the foxes who come into our gardens at night. So it’s not enough to just take your dog to the park and let them play with every dog they come across, thinking that you are somehow socializing them.\n\nIn fact, allowing your puppy to go up to every dog you meet and play with every dog whose path you cross is the opposite of what we want to achieve here. Letting them be “free range” might sound cool, but that is actually how many reactivity issues are formed. Your puppy might be the most placid dog on the planet, but if they come across a dog who is unpleasant to them, or they have a bad experience with another dog in the park, that will stay with them for good. You are not protecting your puppy if", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 70, "id": "424ad1a6-5cfb-4879-9ed4-6bdc231a03f9", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "you expose them to these dangers. What I want you to achieve isn’t some kind of social-butterfly puppy, but instead a socially ignorant pup. Yes, folks, I want your puppy to be able to happily ignore other dogs and animals, not leap around all over them.\n\nWhy do I say this? Well, think about why you got this puppy in the first place. Was it so you could have a companion or so you could watch them tear all over the park with someone else’s dog? Remember, its man’s best friend, not everyone else’s dog’s best friend. You get a dog for you and your family. If you let your dog expect to be able to play with every other dog you meet, you’re not going to be spending that much time with them when you’re out and about, and their sense of loyalty to you will become diluted. Through establishing social ignorance, other dogs become less interesting to your puppy. Your pup becomes calm in the presence of other dogs. Social ignorance also applies to other animals you might encounter, like horses and sheep. Once you feel that your pup is suitably ignorant (I know, it sounds weird!), you can start introducing them to the dogs and other animals YOU want them to meet.\n\nIf a dog comes tearing across the field with its owner screaming, “It’s OK, they’re friendly!,” from half a mile away, be very cautious. They are saying this because they know their COME command isn’t going to work. If that’s not in place, how do you know what will happen when your puppy meets their out-of-control dog? Steer clear of dogs and owners who can’t deliver on the basic commands. The dogs you should be looking to introduce your dog to should be those owned by family and friends, the dogs you will be spending time with in the future.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 71, "id": "3ca224f3-d0a1-4322-bb24-079fe34b3440", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "Keep your dog’s social circle small. Allow them to play with and meet the dogs in your own social circle, who you know you will be spending time with over the years. If you don’t have a lot of dogs in your circle of family and friends, joining a training club that offers controlled socializing is a great way to get your puppy used to other dogs.\n\nFollow the socialization checklist to ensure your pup has met and been exposed to all the other animals on the list. As with fear imprints, keep your puppy on the leash when they are meeting new animals and practice your Art of Attention skills, guys! When a new and interesting dog comes bounding up to your pup, I want you to break your pup’s focus on the other dog. Bring out a favorite tug toy or practice any of your obedience commands (SIT, DOWN, etc.), and mark and reward to let your puppy know you are pleased with them for paying attention to you and not the other dog. You need to do this consistently whenever you encounter a potentially distracting other dog. Eventually, your pup will learn that you are the best option every time there’s a choice between you and another dog.\n\nAnd remember: your puppy doesn’t need dog “friends” to be happy. Dogs don’t do friends, people! This is anthropomorphism! Your puppy only needs YOU.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 72, "id": "dc7dbb98-1ee9-4a48-81c1-1eee23661fcd", "word_count": 235, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 305 } }, { "page_content": "This is not that different from animal socialization when it comes down to it. How do I mean? Human socialization for your dog is not just about letting everyone who wants to say hello to your cute puppy come and say hello. Why? Because a teenage girl rushing over and saying in a high- pitched voice, “OMG, I LOVE PUPPIES,” and cuddling them is not really the kind of human you want to introduce your puppy to every five minutes. This kind of baby talk can either scare the sh*t out of your puppy and be a negative experience or create sheer over-arousal and an overexcitable pup who thinks it’s OK to go la-la every time it meets a human being.\n\nRemember: socialization is about quality over quantity. You want to work on teaching your puppy to ignore strange people (social ignorance, guys). If someone wants to say hello and you are happy for them to do so, make sure your puppy is in a SIT stay and is calm before letting the stranger say hello.\n\nTIP: Go through the checklist below and make sure you introduce your puppy calmly to\n\nthe people on the list. Items of clothing like hoods, big bags, hats, and unusual\n\nhairstyles can all freak a puppy out, so it’s important that you go out of your way to get\n\nthem in front of people wearing these things and, as with other animals, demonstrate\n\nyour own calm confidence to reassure your puppy about how to behave.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 73, "id": "679acf42-8f3d-4350-9261-a729e15f7c01", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "Now you’re getting out and about with your puppy and feeling more confident about how to manage them, it’s a good moment to stop and do a bit of troubleshooting. No one gets everything right all the time, guys, myself included! So let’s look at some of the most common mistakes we all make when raising our puppies and see if we can work through some of them together. These are mistakes I’ve personally made or common problems my clients at Southend Dog Training come up against and regularly ask me about.\n\nI can’t believe how many people I see doing this: taking their puppy on the same walk, to the same place, at the same time every single day. What is that about?! Not only is it massively dull for your puppy, folks, but it can also cause reactivity. They learn to become comfortable in this one setting or routine, but as soon as you take them somewhere new, they revert to “factory settings” and struggle to pay attention to you because of the sensory overload of a new place. Mix up your walking routines with different places and ensure you are ticking off all the places on the environmental socialization checklist—and add a few more of your own if you can.\n\nYou can miss is uncomfortable and/or that your puppy overstimulated when someone else is making a fuss over them. Remember, it is all about quality over quantity when your pup meets someone new for the first time. Remember: “It’s OK, they’re friendly!” is an excuse that people who haven’t trained their dogs use for their lack of control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 74, "id": "e7064a7d-ca9c-46a1-beae-31b63251a67e", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Stroking your puppy when it is doing something you don’t like\n\nThis is probably one of the most common mistakes people make with puppies. To puppies, stroking is a reward. It’s fuss and approval from you. So if your puppy jumps up and you stroke them, you’re rewarding them. If they are reacting to another dog somehow and you stroke them because you think it will calm them down, you are effectively rewarding their unwanted behavior. So always take a few seconds before you stroke your puppy and ask yourself, What am I rewarding?\n\nIf telling your puppy “It’s OK” worked every time they got worried about something, then you would not be reading this book, and we wouldn’t need dog trainers. The fact is that dogs do not understand the nuances of the English language the way we do, folks. So when you say “It’s OK” to your puppy who is cowering in fear at the giant poodle who’s trying to hump them, you are basically talking nonsense to your dog and increasing their confusion and worry at the same time. If you think your puppy needs your protection or reassurance, show them with your body language (firm, confident pose) and by using words you know they understand. These should be your commands and your marker words. Everything else is irrelevant to them.\n\nYou’re going to have both; that’s a given. You are not building a robot dog, guys. You are working with a sophisticated animal with a brain who cannot always be predictable and will undoubtedly throw you curveballs. Chewed", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 75, "id": "d9eacbe7-ee17-4131-8487-e5b16d0e2a2f", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "furniture, dog sh*t, whining…whatever it is, I know from experience that it can feel overwhelming sometimes, especially if you’re already juggling a busy work and family life. I want you to remember that it’s not about avoiding difficult situations, it’s about how you handle them that will largely dictate how your dog—and your relationship with them—turns out. It’s OK to have a bad day when your dog doesn’t seem to be manageable and you wonder why the hell you got them in the first place. We’ve all been there.\n\nWhen it happens, just stop for a second, ask yourself what went wrong that day and how you can learn from it…and move on. Concentrate on the good days; don’t let the bad days overshadow all the good days.\n\nThis is probably the most irresponsible thing any dog owner can do. Why? Because the reality is, if you let your puppy off the leash and it is not yet properly trained, you are putting your puppy’s life and the lives of others— humans and dogs—at risk. A puppy on the road is a potential car crash situation, with far more risk to life than just the puppy’s. You also set your dog up to fail when you let them off the leash too soon. If you let your puppy off and it ignores you, you are essentially giving them the green light to ignore you! Leashes are there to help us maintain control during the training stages; they are not optional.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 76, "id": "9f69ae36-0ff6-4a73-9e30-6f96a0cb9a2c", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "What do I mean by too much freedom? Being left to their own devices too much, being ignored and under-managed. Puppies need guidance; I can’t say that enough. Similarly to letting your puppy off the leash too soon, too much freedom too soon can be overwhelming for a young pup and lead to unwanted behaviors, such as stealing or destroying things. A puppy who feels lost will also follow you from room to room and have broken sleep, all behaviors that can manifest as separation anxiety and other anxious behaviors.\n\nAlthough it’s great to have high expectations for your puppy and how they will behave, it’s also important to understand and accept that you will not have the perfect dog straight off the bat. Expecting your puppy to do a perfect HEEL on their first walk is a massively unreal expectation and only leaves everyone feeling disappointed, especially your puppy. Like all relationships, trust and understanding are built over time and with plenty of hard work. That’s why it’s important to do your training sessions and stick to your puppy’s routine daily. It is in these moments that the foundation of your relationship is built.\n\nAnthropomorphizing (treating your dog like a human)", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 77, "id": "5dbe5b7a-14ca-4778-af7f-0701d8d52c3a", "word_count": 202, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 262 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs are dogs, people! Assigning them human emotions and treating them like humans is deeply futile and incredibly detrimental to the dog. To be clear, I’m not saying dogs are “less than” humans; I’m saying they’re not remotely human at all. Treating them like our children or our friends—I’m looking at you, the people who get them all dressed up, throw them birthday parties, and drive them around in their own cars—leaves them very confused! Remember: humans start wars, lie, cheat, and steal. Why would you want to treat them like that? Dogs are pure, honest, and loyal to their core. What you see is absolutely what you get. Remember that before you start treating your puppy like a baby.\n\nSeparation anxiety: what is it and how to prevent it\n\nSeparation anxiety is a massive problem for a lot of people and their puppies, especially since the lockdowns of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020–2021. Thousands of people brought puppies into their lives while they were furloughed or working from home, only to find they had to leave them at home alone for hours on end once things got back to normal. Puppies don’t understand the concept of jobs or popping out for a while, and they struggle to remember that even though you go away sometimes, you do come back. Separation anxiety can appear in many different ways. It can be more severe for some dogs than others, but either way, a pup experiencing this is a distressed animal who can whine, cry, defecate, destroy, and chew anything in its path when in the throes of an anxiety attack.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 78, "id": "b5663f48-862f-4cbe-a4d3-55b983ebe069", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "In theory, if you have followed everything in this book to the letter, you should find yourself with a puppy who is totally chill about being left on their own for periods of time. How come? Because you will have trained them to spend time in their crate, where they feel safe and secure. You will have taught them the Art of Doing Nothing—the idea that you expect and endorse them switching off occasionally means they can “engage” AODN when they find themselves home alone.\n\nHowever, as I said, no one gets this sh*t perfect every time, not even me. So if you find your puppy is crying a lot when you go out, maybe they’re having toilet accidents and chewing sh*t up, or worse, the neighbors are complaining about them barking while you’re out, here are a couple of things you can do to halt this anxiety taking hold for the long term.\n\nIf you are still carrying around any ideas about crates being “prisons” or somehow cruel for your dog, now is the time to lose those misconceptions once and for all. Dogs like to take shelter in nest-like environments—you see this behavior in street dogs in countries where dogs aren’t so domesticated. Instead of shelters, we have crates in our homes, which can be a reassuring, safe space for your dog.\n\nYou will have been using a crate from day one of your training with me, but if for any reason it has slipped and you notice you’re not using the crate as much as you were, double down on your crate training. Go back to this page and go over your puppy routine, making sure you always put your puppy in their crate after a good training session when they are tired.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 82, "chunk_index": 79, "id": "0a249d7b-8f84-4e0c-8384-0d65bf369f6c", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "TIP: Do not just chuck your puppy in the crate every time you go out and expect them\n\nto be fine about that. All that is teaching them is that when you close the door on the\n\ncrate, you p*ss off and don’t come back for ages. It is really important that you put them\n\nin the crate at times when you are at home so that they understand it’s just a safe place\n\nfor them to chill out and doesn’t mean instant abandonment.\n\nIf you are in a situation where your puppy gets stressed when you leave them, consider how much fuss you are making of them at home. (Remember, this is a measure for if and when your puppy has separation anxiety. I’m not saying everyone should automatically ration their affection, but if leaving them is becoming a problem, it could be that your puppy is overly dependent on being stroked and petted every time they are in your personal space.) It is perfectly OK to ignore your dog sometimes when they are around you and keep affection on your terms. Make a fuss about them as a reward for good behavior, not an automatic reflex because they’re cute. This way, your puppy learns physical connection doesn’t always happen every time you’re next to them or nearby; they become more able to self- soothe.\n\nToys that are mentally enriching for your puppy, such as KONGs and LickiMats, can be a real help with separation anxiety. Giving them something to do while you are away that is engaging and distracting means their focus moves away from you (or the lack of you) and to the task at hand. Put some of your puppy’s daily food allowance into a KONG, and suddenly your leaving becomes associated with food and dinnertime. A negative has become a positive!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 82, "chunk_index": 80, "id": "5368d6bc-6d7a-4a30-9e21-bebfca05e2c5", "word_count": 306, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 397 } }, { "page_content": "There’s no getting around the fact that a tired dog needs to rest, so if you can, try to schedule your departure for a time shortly after exercise or a training session. Put them in their crate, leave them with a KONG to work on, and suddenly being left becomes a pleasurable opportunity for them to rest and chill, not abandoning a dog bursting with surplus energy.\n\nThis is easier said than done; however, if you are panicking that your dog will get stressed because you are leaving, your dog will pick up on this,\n\nwhich will only contribute further to your dog’s stress. Dogs are very black- and-white in the way they think. They don’t realize you’re stressing about leaving them, and they don’t have the capacity for this kind of empathy. They just know that you left all stressed, which freaks them out more. So when you have to leave your dog, leave without emotion or hesitation and act as if nothing is happening.\n\nWith all of these measures in place, you should quite quickly see a reduction in any separation anxiety your puppy is experiencing. You might find over time that you can ease your foot off the pedal with some of these strategies. I never crate my dogs when I go out these days due to separation anxiety. However, I always crate one of my dogs, Sammie, when I leave due to living next door to the Ministry of Defense, where lots of bangs go off randomly. Loud bangs tend to stress Sammie out when nobody is around, but when she is in her crate, she feels safe and secure and sleeps. I know that if they suffered separation anxiety, these are the tools I would bring into play to help ease the worry and stress they are experiencing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 81, "id": "7cb64da1-b7d7-4785-802c-967464f08e88", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Now, guys—are you ready for this? Yes, I’m talking about your puppy’s adolescence. The equivalent of their terrible teens. It’s different for every puppy and will depend largely on their breed and size, but generally speaking, you’re going to start experiencing a new type of terror somewhere around five to six months!\n\nNow, I don’t want to scare you—please be reassured that if you have been putting all your training into practice, this challenging period of your puppy’s development will be a little bit easier.\n\nYes, just like humans, canines experience a period of adolescence during which they lose their babyish cuteness and begin to morph into the adult dog you’ll be spending the next ten to fifteen years with. Every dog goes through it, no exceptions, although some experience it more intensely than others. During your puppy’s adolescence, you’ll see them start to push their own boundaries (and your buttons) as their confidence grows and they begin to explore the world around them and use their growing body, super senses, incredible strength, and coordination.\n\nWhile it’s often a very exciting period for a puppy, it’s less thrilling for owners, who can feel like they have lost their puppy during this time and begin to wonder what has happened to all the training they have been working hard on. Adolescent puppies can be impulsive and bold and often\n\nseem to forget all of the obedience commands and other good behaviors that they have been taught.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 85, "chunk_index": 82, "id": "471e7069-ab9e-4344-a56f-b9bade037ed7", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "I’m not going to sugarcoat it, it can be a tough, make-or-break period for many owners, and people begin to wonder if they have made a huge mistake getting a puppy. For this reason, it’s not, as you might expect, the January after Christmas that people take their puppies to rescue centers, but later in the year, when their puppy hits six months old. This is often the time that people decide they can’t keep their dogs because they feel they cannot cope with the willful and defiant creature who is now living in their house.\n\nThe good news is that adolescence doesn’t last forever, usually between six months and a year. And if you can get some of the most difficult behaviors in check, it can also be a fascinating period, as you begin to see your dog’s true personality emerge. So, if you are reading this while also pulling all your hair out and wondering how the hell you are going to cope with the adolescent puppy that is terrorizing your home, do not fear. This next bit is going to help you.\n\nAdolescence is when you will see your dog’s true personality arrive, and you will start to see all of their breed-specific traits begin to kick in. If you’ve got a spaniel, maybe you’ll start to notice them beginning to enjoy games of fetch. If you’ve got a sighthound, perhaps you’ll begin to see their incredible speed start to build up on walks, terriers will enjoy ragging with tug toys, and so on.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 83, "id": "ffacd942-4f0e-4ddb-84c7-866f5a60e456", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "This is when the breed fulfillment I told you about in chapter 1 begins to become so important. You need to play to your puppy’s strengths. If you don’t, that’s when things start to go wrong. The first and most important thing you can do with your adolescent puppy is understand their breed requirements and ensure they are being met. A greyhound who doesn’t get to run is going to flip out. A collie whose incredible brainpower is under- stimulated will make your life hell. Revisit your breed knowledge and ensure you are doing everything possible to meet your puppy’s innate needs.\n\nIt’s also important at this time to make sure you are reinforcing positive messaging with your puppy. It is very tempting to shout and generally lose your sh*t with a dog who has just eaten your new sofa, but that’s not going\n\nto get you or your puppy anywhere. They’ll just hear anger and noise and you’ll be stressed. It’s a pointless exercise all around, folks.\n\nWhen dealing with a boisterous and disobedient adolescent, the best thing you can do is take your training back to basics. Why? Because you want your dog to feel good about themselves, like they are doing something right, because doing the right thing gets them the treats and the fuss. Even though you might think you’ve got SIT sorted out and you’re really bored with going over the same old commands repeatedly, I want you to do exactly that. Revisit your basic commands and use your marker words, do anything that is an easy win for your dog and an easy win for you. SIT, reward. SIT, reward. When you are in the midst of a tricky adolescent period, this is the best way to reassure yourself and your puppy that you have got this. Your puppy will calm down, and your mental health will be restored.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 84, "id": "0c1b6a88-40fc-4fdb-b3bc-abe7d93321f9", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "I am revisiting leash walking in detail right now because it is the key to having a well-behaved dog. Ensuring you have decent leash work during this adolescent period will help reduce so many unwanted behaviors. It helps you maintain your hard-won pecking order in the sense that your dog is following you daily, going where you go, stopping when you stop, and generally taking all their cues from you.\n\nTo be clear, leash walking is pretty much the most common problem I see with my clients, regardless of the type or size of dog they are walking. Once we successfully address leash walking, many other issues quickly disappear. Remember, guys, when you are walking your dog, you’re also building a relationship. Even though you might think you’re off to pick up the kids from nursery school, in your dog’s mind, you are off on an adventure together…and you are the expedition leader!\n\nRemember: Your dog hasn’t forgotten everything you taught them, even if they behave like they have! Patience is key during adolescence, so be prepared to go over things and repeat things. It is worth doing this even if it does feel like everything is taking twice as long.\n\nDanger: Do not let your puppy off the leash too soon. I’ve touched on this on this page, but I just want to say it again, folks: Do not let your puppy run free off the leash before they are ready. This is a massively common\n\nmistake that can—and does—end in tragedy. Many people are lured into a false sense of security because of how well their puppy behaves during puppyhood. You should not even contemplate removing the leash while out in the park until they are at least 18 months old, once you have survived puppyhood and adolescence.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 87, "chunk_index": 85, "id": "c07ec1ae-ff9d-4a69-b68e-3a26f4647392", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "By the time they reach adolescence, your puppy should be accustomed to walking on the leash without pulling. If you feel you need to revisit some of the basics, go back to this page and double down on your leash walking practice. Even if you are now comfortably going for longer walks in different environments (socialization), you can still go back to basics, walking your puppy up and down your road or street just to reinforce everything they have learned so far.\n\nAs well as not massively pulling on the leash, your puppy should have a basic understanding of where the heel position is, even if you haven’t actually been using the word. This is because you have been luring them to your side to reward them with a treat every time they stop pulling. So, in theory, your puppy already knows how to come to HEEL; you just haven’t told them the name of this move yet!\n\nNow, in adolescence, is a good time to start adding in that structure and direction of the HEEL command because it helps you stay in control and reminds your puppy that you’re the source of all the good things in life.\n\nAdolescence is a time for going over your basics, but it’s also a time when you can start to introduce a few new, handy training tools to help with your puppy’s development. Before I go into anything in detail, I just want to be clear: it is vitally important to remember that, whatever training tool you choose to implement, you must understand how to fit it correctly, how to teach your dog what it means, and how to use it safely. Without the proper use of these things, they can be detrimental and damaging to your pup’s training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 86, "id": "98822c0e-a19e-446c-947d-ce7ac6a2c3d3", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "If your adolescent puppy is still pulling on the leash despite all the basic leash walking training I’ve taken you through, you might choose to try a Halti leash. I’m a big fan of Haltis, as they make a massive difference with dogs who continue to have pulling problems, especially reactive dogs who can pull unexpectedly. A Halti is a gentle head harness that controls the dog by the snout and takes all the pressure off the throat.\n\nTo introduce a Halti, you must first make sure your puppy is comfortable putting their nose into the Halti. Do this by simply slipping it on and off and rewarding your puppy heavily for this (YES, and a treat). You’ll then need to get your puppy comfortable with having the Halti done up, so again, go heavy on the rewards and praise. Then you need to master walking your puppy with a Halti on in a low-distraction environment (i.e., your garden or somewhere else familiar, without loads of other dogs and people). Once your dog is comfortable moving around your garden, you can move to outside; get your dog comfortable in your street before moving on to high- distraction-level areas, such as parks. A decent structured walk should be ten minutes, with your dog nicely walking by your side, followed by five minutes where you allow your puppy to sniff and explore a little, before returning to a more structured HEEL walk.\n\nTIP: Haltis can be tricky to put on at first, so watch a few online videos or ask a friend\n\nto demonstrate theirs just to get a feel for how they work. Waving a Halti around and", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 87, "id": "9da184ff-3b10-47ff-b7a7-18ab24b6364a", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "getting your puppy into a right old state about it before they’ve even tried walking with\n\nFor mild pulling, and with puppies in general, a front clip harness used with a double-clipped leash on the collar (one end to the collar, one to the front clip harness) can be a great method to help reduce pulling. It will give you\n\ncontrol of the head and body and make it much easier to steer/guide the dog to where you want them to be.\n\nAdolescence is different for every dog; for some dogs, you would hardly even know they were in their teenage years, whereas others won’t let you forget it. However, the real trick to surviving adolescence is getting those puppy foundations right and continuing to fortify them through the adolescent phase.\n\nGuys, as you know, having a puppy comes with lots of questions. I’ve compiled a list of some of the most commonly asked questions I get every day from puppy owners.\n\nYes, it’s absolutely fine for puppies to be on the sofa—once they have learned to settle down in the crate. When they are going in their crate with next to no protest and it has become their place of relaxation, you can start to introduce dog beds and the sofa, should you wish to. If you don’t want a dog on your sofa, just don’t put them on the sofa!", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 88, "id": "2885e2c2-8f2e-440c-8c9e-91fdb84ff842", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "The reality is, you don’t do anything other than clean it up! It was actually your fault for not paying attention to the signs that your dog needed to go to the toilet. Having a regular puppy routine helps reduce the chances of accidents. Under any circumstances, DO NOT RUB YOUR DOG’S NOSE IN THEIR OWN POO! This will only traumatize your puppy and may even make them afraid to go to the toilet in your presence…yes, even in your garden if you are present. This method is outdated and archaic. Your puppy will need to go to the toilet when they first wake up and before they go back down for a nap. Look for the signs. Your dog’s nose glued to the floor,\n\nmoving back and forth erratically, could be a sign that your dog needs to go for a pee.\n\nPuppies are very much like toddlers; they will get into everything in a heartbeat. The leash helps you maintain control, remove your dog from situations in a nonconfrontational manner, and will make your life easier.\n\nThere is no set age for this; every dog is different. The general rule is when you do not need to use it anymore—because the dog is listening to your voice commands, behaving in the house, and knows how to switch off.\n\nWhat should I do if my puppy is chewing their leash?\n\nI find that the quickest way to stop leash chewing is this: when it is in the puppy’s mouth, very firmly give a sharp tug on the leash. Do this quickly without emotion as if you are ripping off a Band-Aid and the puppy should soon stop chewing the leash.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 91, "chunk_index": 89, "id": "2223e0b8-9759-419d-9e02-31db0f352be8", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Similar to your puppy having an accident, if your pup steals things, it is largely down to your leaving things around for them to pick up! Puppies will literally pick up anything that is new and out of the ordinary, or easily accessible, so in the beginning stages of training, don’t leave tempting things lying around that your pup can easily get. Remember, puppies sample the world with their mouths. When a puppy is awake, this is the time you should be interacting with the puppy and training. If you can’t because you are occupied elsewhere, they should be in a puppy pen with something to keep them occupied, like a KONG or brain puzzle.\n\nWhat is the difference between a puppy pen and a crate, and why do I need both?\n\nA crate is basically your dog’s bedroom; it’s where they go to sleep and learn to switch off—it becomes their safe space, a den-like environment. Your pup should go into their crate after regular training sessions to help achieve this, and the crate door must always be shut once you place them in the crate. A puppy pen is a place you can safely leave your puppy when you are busy and have not had time to get that energy out of the puppy—like a child’s playpen. It’s a secure enclosure that you put the pup in with their favorite toys to keep them occupied.\n\nWhat do I do if my puppy cries when I leave the room?\n\nIf you have just put them down for a nap in their crate, then don’t panic; it’s completely normal. However, if the puppy is full of beans and has already had a nap, you can use your puppy pen and give them a little chew to keep them occupied as, sometimes, we have to leave the room. This creates a positive association with you leaving and coming back. This will also reduce the chances of them crying when you leave the room.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 90, "id": "032dc209-ff69-4b9e-ad29-0d18419231e8", "word_count": 332, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 431 } }, { "page_content": "You may find the odd puppy “milk tooth” here and there; that’s completely normal and nothing to worry about. The reality is that you will never find most of their teeth as they swallow them while they are eating.\n\nWill I still form a good bond with my dog if I don’t hand-feed?\n\nAlthough for me hand-feeding is an absolute game changer and will speed up your training, there are other factors such as breed fulfillment, consistency with training, keeping your pup safe during stressful situations, and adequate mental and physical exercise that also contribute massively to a strong bond with your pup.\n\nWhat are the best dog treats to use if you are not hand-feeding?\n\nMy top three go-to treats are: JR Pet Products’ paté, tripe sticks (break these into small pieces), and liver cake.\n\nAt what age can I start to leave my puppy home alone?\n\nYour puppy can be left home alone from day one, but it’s important to remember that your puppy must always be safe and secure when they are left and cannot be left for longer than they can hold their bladder.\n\nNever more than an hour or two at the beginning, but this is not set in stone. Your puppy will obviously be in the crate longer overnight than it is during the day, although even at night, I think no longer than four hours at any one time. However, once your pup has full bladder control, it will be fine in the crate overnight.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 91, "id": "38da8c30-dfa8-4a2d-9683-67fd4634e0f8", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "It depends. A lot of doggy day-care centers are run like Disneyland for dogs. There is very little structure; all the dogs do is play, play, and play. This can become very problematic and undo the obedience and structure you have been teaching them. I don’t usually recommend doggy day care to my clients. However, if you are going to send your dog to one, then make sure it is run by a dog trainer who teaches proper socializing, including teaching dogs to coexist in a calm, neutral, relaxed way around other dogs. A dog walker is a good alternative if you need someone to check in on your puppy and break up the day for them while you are working. A decent dog walker should discuss and follow your training regimen.\n\nMy puppy has suddenly gone off training; what should I do?\n\nDog training can feel like an endless pursuit of perfection, and sometimes when we are pushing a dog to improve, we can forget the importance of just having fun! Remember, all work and no play is no fun for anyone. If your pup has gone off training, go back a step or two, do something easy that your pup knows well, and give them frequent wins.", "metadata": { "source": "data/HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "page": 94, "chunk_index": 92, "id": "e9632ecf-affc-4ed4-a53e-0cbf33865465", "word_count": 209, "book_title": "How to Raise the Perfect Dog", "book_description": "Guide for raising the perfect dog", "book_filename": "HowtoRaisethePerfectDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 271 } }, { "page_content": "My everlasting gratitude and love to VESLA who started it all, just by being herself\n\nThis book was written thanks to Terry Ryan, who nagged me into doing it, helped me with art work for it, and had the first edition published. Thanks Terry!\n\nThe big Briard attacked violently and with a roar. He went for the little Elkhound at full speed. She stopped moving, stood quite still, and turned her head to one side. Just a few feet away from the Elkhound, the Briard stopped and looked bewildered as if he didn’t know what to do. Then he started to look around for some replacement activity, sniffed a little at the ground, and turned to head back to base.\n\nThe place was my training field. The client was a Briard with dog-to-dog problems. The little Elkhound was my own Vesla, who was thirteen years of age.\n\nVesla always knows what to do and she always manages to calm down other dogs, whether they are aggressive, afraid, stressed or just being a nuisance. For eleven years no dog has been able to throw her off her mental balance. She is the image of a survivor, a conflict-solving dog with all the communication skills needed to survive.\n\nVesla wasn't always like that. She came to me as a stray dog. We meant to re-home her as she upset my own dogs with her aggressive and violent behavior. She fought, she quarrelled, she was stressed and she was impossible, and I didn't feel the right inclination to start to work with her. But nobody else wanted her, so with a sigh of resignation we kept her and started to try to incorporate her into our family of people and dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 6, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "2385a144-b0c0-4841-a61d-7ba3bd04ddfe", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "It was a time of trials. I am sure she was the worst dog I have ever had in the house. Gradually, though, things got better. She stopped climbing the curtains. She could go for walks without trying to bite the others all the time. She could relax now and again.\n\nAnd then one day I saw to my astonishment that she had actually started to communicate with the other dogs. Their work had started to get through to her! When I discovered that she actually was recovering her dog language, I tried my usual method for training. I praised every step in the right direction, and every time I caught a glimpse of a calming signal, I praised her. She became better and better at communicating. I realized to my\n\nsurprise that it was possible to reinforce her own language by praising her, and then things happened very quickly. She was now helped by both my dogs and myself. In a very short time she was a miracle of dog language. One year after I got her, she had stopped all her aggressive behavior, and from then until today, twelve years later, she has not once been in trouble with any dog. They just cannot make her lose control.\n\nThe story of Vesla made me realize that it is possible to re-teach lost language to dogs. Since then I have made this teaching a life-style and my main job. And it has enriched my life: I now understand better and see better what dogs feel. I truly feel that I am on talking terms with the dogs. And that gives me a good feeling, just like the childhood dream about talking to animals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 7, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "f5fae61c-0eba-494a-b3b8-7cfd088318df", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "Thank you Vesla, for all you taught me. It changed my life.\n\nAuthor’s note: This was written in 1996. Vesla died a few years later.\n\nThe social dynamics of a wolf pack is often used as a model for dog-dog and dog-human interactions. I have seen dog people (and some wolf people as well) caught up in the idea of always maintaining high rank by aggressive means, believing their only choices are between forcibly dominating the animal or submitting to it. The problem with this approach is two-fold. Firstly, aggression may well escalate, and secondly, an either-or choice between forcible dominance or submission is not the only choice available to wolves, to dogs or to humans.\n\nWith what she calls “calming signals” based on canine expressive behavior, Turid Rugaas introduces dog trainers and owners to another option to try to improve relationships between humans and their dogs and between dogs and other dogs. Pat Goodman\n\nThe occasion was “Animals and Us,” the Sixth International Conference on Human-Animal Interactions in Montreal. A quiet, polite seminar attendee, Turid Rugaas, sat a couple of rows ahead of me during the canine behavior sessions. Turid should never play poker. I couldn’t help but notice her shoulders tensing up or relaxing depending on the speaker. The funny thing was, her body language was directly reflecting my own opinion of the various speakers’ presentations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 8, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "cdffcbc8-70b7-4cca-8df4-56fe653c014a", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "Networking! That’s what symposiums are all about! I wanted to meet this stranger from overseas whose response to behavior issues seemed to so closely mirror my own. Realizing that English was not her native tongue, and wondering if she would understand, it took me until the end of the day to gather the nerve to approach her. Since that meeting back in 1992, I have spent a lot of time with Turid. I’ve invited her to present at my behavior and training camps and seminars both in the United States and overseas. She has captivated her audiences wherever she goes. She was a big hit in Japan with her blue eyes and flaxen braids!\n\nTurid’s farm, Hagan Hundeskole, is located on a heavily forested mountain top overlooking scenic fiords of Norway. People from all over the country bring their dogs for her instruction in basic manners and rehabilitation of problem behaviors. I have been there to observe during her work with dogs and she has amazed me. The stories she tells in this book are true. I have come to realize that she is on the cutting edge of understanding canine behavior. The following quote from Turid gives the essence of her theory on calming-signals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 9, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "59788da7-a368-4f75-ae39-a94baa0bc731", "word_count": 205, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 266 } }, { "page_content": "“Dogs, being flock animals, have a language for communication with each other. Canine language in general consists of a large variety of signals using body, face, ears, tail, sounds, movement, and expression. The dog’s innate ability to signal is easily lost or reinforced through life’s experience. If we study the signals dogs use with each other and use them ourselves, we increase our ability to communicate with our dogs. Most noteworthy of all canine signals are the calming signals, which are used to maintain a healthy social hierarchy and resolution of conflict within the flock. These are skills which, when carried over to our own interactions with dogs, can be highly beneficial to our relationship. Dogs have the ability to calm themselves in the face of a shock (fearful or stressful situation) and to calm each other as well. As an example let’s consider the manner in which dogs meet each other. Dogs which are worried in a social situation can communicate concepts such as, ‘I know you are the boss around here and I won't make trouble.’ Furthermore, the boss dog is very apt to want the worried dog to realize that no trouble is intended. ‘Don’t worry, I’m in charge around here and I mean you no harm.’ Dogs that do not signal properly can be the cause of problems.”\n\nOn trips to Europe I make it a point to visit Turid’s farm, Hagan Hundeskole, to observe her work. I have been on seminar tours with her in Europe, USA and Japan. Whether a training camp north of the Arctic Circle or national symposium in Geneva, each time she has left me favorably impressed with her ability to explain to her audience what is going on with dog at any given time. Terry Ryan", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 10, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "1cee9ead-026a-49bb-b381-1d3522e74071", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "In books about wolves you will find the body language of wolves described as “cut-off” signals, as the observers saw how they were cutting off aggression in other wolves. These signals have been described for years and are well known. The same people describing these signals seem to think that dogs do not have the same ability to cut off aggression in each other ( Behavior of Wolves, Dogs and Related Canids by Michael Fox) – and how wrong they are! Dogs have the same ability and the same social skills to avoid conflicts as wolves have. Perhaps those observers did not see them, because the wolves are much more intense in their behavior due to their life situation. Dogs, that is domesticated dogs, are much more subtle in their skills and use much smaller letters, so to say. They are usually not in the same position of danger as wolves, and they do not have the same need to speak to each other in such big letters.\n\nWhen I started to observe and use these signals, I called them calming signals. Cut-off is not the appropriate word, as they are used much more as prevention than really cutting off behavior. The signals are used at an early stage to prevent things from happening, avoiding threats from people and dogs, calming down nervousness, fear, noise and unpleasant things. The signals are used for calming themselves when they feel stressed or uneasy. They are used to make the others involved feel safer and understand the goodwill the signals indicate. They are also used to enable dogs to make friends with other dogs and people.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 11, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "12ea471e-9e95-4aec-99d7-de24801f5f41", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "Those dogs that are able to develop communication skills with other dogs, and that have not lost their signals because of us, understand each other and need never be in conflict with others. Wolves and dogs try to avoid conflicts. They are conflict-solving animals. It is usually we, the human species, who tend to create conflicts between our dogs and ourselves.\n\nWe will look more closely at these signals throughout this book, what they are and how they are used, in order to help you learn to understand your dog better and be a better \"parent\" for your dog. It will help you in training and handling, and I am certain that these new skills will enrich your life as they have mine.\n\nThink about an average day with your dog. You get up in the morning, with the \"Monday morning\" feeling, and tell the dog off with a bit of annoyance in your voice. He turns his face sideways to you, and licks his nose in one quick movement. You wash, finish getting ready and go to the door. The dog is happy to know that he is going out and fawns around you. You command him “SIT”! The commanding tone makes your dog yawn before he sits down. You put on his leash, go out of the door and he pulls a little.\n\nYou jerk him back, he then turns his back on you and puts his nose to the ground.\n\nAt the park you let him loose for a few minutes, and before long your wrist watch tells you that it is time to go back. You call your dog. Was your voice a little stressed? Your dog starts moving towards you slowly and in a curve. You think he does it to annoy you, and you yell at him. He sniffs the ground, curves even more, and looks away from you. He finally comes and you scold him or, even worse, you shake him. He turns his face from you, licking his nose or yawning.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 12, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "f867f308-3a1f-4c49-9644-41b28e1aeb30", "word_count": 339, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 440 } }, { "page_content": "This was only one morning’s procedure. We could have gone through the whole day like this and told you step by step every time your dog tries to calm you down with his signals. These signals are there as soon as anything happens.\n\nDogs use the signals as soon as there is anything to calm down. If they are awake, they “talk,” just like you and I.\n\nOften the signals come in quick movements, so quick that we need to really look hard to be able to see them. With practice at observation and experience you learn to see these small flashes. Other dogs see them, even other animals, like cats. All it takes is a little practice and knowing what to look for.\n\nWolves have them. Dogs have inherited them. All of the various breeds all over the world have them, no matter what size, color, or shape they are. They all have them. It is a truly universal language and a wonderful one because it means we can communicate with dogs wherever we meet them.\n\nJust imagine being able to travel the world, and everywhere you go you can speak your native tongue, and everybody else understands because they all speak the same language. How marvellous that would be. I have been to the USA, Japan, England and many other countries, and I have seen it with my own eyes. Dogs speak the same language all over the world.\n\nSome breeds or types of dog have certain signals that are better developed than others due to their different appearance. Black dogs, for instance, have a tendency to use licking more than other facial expressions, although they understand dogs using other signals and they understand humans who use them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 13, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "20d83d50-ef6f-4d88-bb11-2a87f319ce13", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Many dogs lick their noses when a camera is pointed directly at them.\n\nDogs and wolves have strong instincts for conflict solving, communication and cooperation.\n\nTheir repertoire also includes threatening signals, and when we are dealing with dogs we have a choice of how to behave: we can be calming, friendly or reassuring, or we can be threatening. Whatever we choose will have consequences for our relationship with the dog. When you are using threats to your dog, intentionally or unintentionally, the dog will use calming signals in order to try to calm you. For the conflict-solving dog, threats must be calmed down. I prefer to put it this way: Why on earth should we ever use threatening signals to dogs?\n\nWhat signals are we talking about? We know at least 30 signals. Some signals are used for other things as well, in other situations. Some are so swift that we can hardly see them. It takes experience to see everything in every situation. But with experience and frequent observation, you will be able to catch a glimpse of them all, and you will always be able to tell how your dog is feeling. You will understand your dog much better. And isn’t that what we would all like? To really understand how they feel?\n\n“The greatness of a nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated.”\n\nA signal can be a swift movement, with the dog either turning his head to the side and back, or holding his head to one side for some time. It can be just a tiny movement, or the whole head can be clearly and deliberately turned to the side for several seconds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 14, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "91137c90-90a1-468c-bf6f-f0bbdb6811f3", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Your dog may use head turning to tell an approaching dog to calm down. Perhaps the other dog approached yours too quickly, or approached him directly head on instead of in a curve.\n\nHave you ever noticed your dog turning his head when you try to take a photo of him? He’s telling you that he feels uncomfortable with this.\n\nYour dog may turn his head if you stoop over him. Although he may stand still, he might also turn his head which tells you that he is feeling uncomfortable in this situation.\n\nYou can use head turning yourself when a dog starts to get worried or frightened if you have approached him impolitely. If a scared dog starts to bark or growl at you, stop moving towards him, turn your head to one side and this will help\n\nHow polite! Each of these dogs uses a calming signals in order to avoid conflict.\n\nFor example, when two dogs meet, they usually both look away for a second, and then they greet each other happily. Often, when I go up to my dog Saga to take her picture, she finds the camera a bit scary. She looks away when I take the picture, but looks at me again when I remove the camera from my face.\n\nWhen one dog turns his head another will often answer by doing the same.\n\n\"Shortening the eye\" by making the eyes look at another individual in a softer way, lowering the lids, and not staring in a threatening way, are signals. Your dog may use them when he looks at someone straight on but does not want to make himself seem threatening.\n\nA non-confrontational approach: “shortening the eye” indicates peaceful intentions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 16, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "d7dec564-dea3-4b91-84f4-acf76b7e769c", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "You can use a similar signal yourself if you wish to train the exercise “eye contact,” making the contact softer and more friendly.\n\nSitting down with your eyes at the same level as the dog might be threatening for some dogs. If you get the feeling that he actually feels threatened by it, you can stand up and look at him from above; this means that your eyes will become “shortened” and you will immediately seem to stare less. Many dogs find it difficult to have direct facial contact.\n\nTurning the side or back to someone is very calming. When dogs play together rather wildly, some of them will start turning their side or back to the others in between playing, to make things calm down a little.\n\nDespite the dog on the right giving off calming signals, the dog on the left still feels threatened. He turns away to increase the distance and lessen the threat.\n\nYour dog may use this signal when another dog growls or behaves threateningly towards him in some way, such as running up to him too quickly. He may also use it if you speak in a very cross voice or go up to\n\nhim when he feels that you are angry. When young dogs pester older ones, the older often turns back to make them calm down. When you jerk at the leash your dog may turn away from you, maybe pulling even more.\n\nYou can use this signal yourself when a dog shows signs of nervousness or aggression towards you. If he jumps up at you, turn away, and more often than not he will stop.\n\nIn the photo below, Julias has turned his head, then his side and finally his back to a very angry German Shepherd. By the time he had his back to her, the shepherd had actually become much calmer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 18, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "9a893ae9-38d4-40f3-b15a-bf1068630310", "word_count": 312, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 405 } }, { "page_content": "One dog will often turn away to avoid a threatening situation.\n\nRaif turns away from the deerhound’s impolite approach.\n\nIf your dog is overwhelming you by jumping up and bothering you, turn your back on the dog and he will quiet down. If you are approaching a strange dog and suddenly you see that the dog is becoming nervous, turn your back to him. In a few seconds the dog will come to you.\n\nGino, a Doberman Pinscher, was not happy with some young boys who had been pestering him a great deal. The owner taught the boys to turn their backs to Gino. Immediately Gino felt he could come up to them and they made friends.\n\nIf a dog jumps up, turn your back on him! This is a strong signal that dogs will respond to if used consistently.\n\nOccasionally it seems as though one dog hasn’t even noticed another. In fact it means that he is feeling rather vulnerable.\n\nWhile jumping, this Dalmatian simultaneously turns away as he finds the woman’s body posture threatening.\n\nAbove: Each dog does its best to calm the others in its choice of position or calming signal.\n\nLeft: Vesla feels uncomfortable when Gaby tries to attach a rope to her. Fortunately Turid takes her granddaughter away, leaving Vesla in peace.\n\nBelow: The white dog sees another dog approaching directly. She stands still and turns her head indicating this is impolite behavior.\n\nYou may notice a very quick movement of the tongue, flicking so quickly that sometimes it is hard to see this calming signal.\n\nYour dog may use it when approaching another dog. When you bend over your dog or hold him tight, or when you bend down to grab him or talk to", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 20, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "09b46639-ab3e-413e-a7de-c2bfd31953b0", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "You may not be able to use it. It is one of the signals I often find awkward for people to use.\n\nRocky sees another dog in the distance coming his way. He stops, turns his head and licks several times.\n\nThis dog might be licking his nose to calm himself down as the camera is pointing directly at him, or he may be calming another person or dog out of the camera shot.\n\nI bend over Vesla to clean her ears. She looks away and licks.\n\nThe veterinarian bends down to lift Ulla up on the table. She licks, showing that she is a little uncomfortable.\n\nA direct approach and outstretched hands can be rather disconcerting.\n\nToo many hands and too little space are making this youngster feel very uncomfortable.\n\nEven a flick of the tongue can have a calming effect.\n\nYour dog may freeze: stopping, standing, sitting or lying still without moving a muscle when a much bigger dog comes up too close and starts sniffing him all over.\n\nLorry, a little Whippet, was greeted by a very big German Shepherd male dog who sniffed him all over. He stood as still as he could, freezing completely, until the dog moved off to look for other “prey.\" Finally he could move again.\n\nA man who was training his dog for obedience became angry when his very young dog got up from a long down stay, curious to greet some other dogs he had seen approaching in the distance. The man was so angry that he\n\nstarted to yell, real aggression in his voice. The dog stopped and stood quite still. He didn’t dare to move he was trying so hard to calm his owner down. The man ran up to him and really told him off for being so “stubborn.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "e84bf5cd-3702-4a16-95a8-fe0233ae0313", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "A competitor got a new dog for competition work. Being very ambitious, with hopes of having a champion at an early age, he started training and correcting the puppy. Then one day when he called the dog, the dog stopped, sat down and didn’t dare to move.\n\nSaga does a wonderful job of calming simply by freezing to let the other dog know that she is not a threat.\n\nMovements that become slower, sometimes so slow that there is hardly any movement at all, have a very calming effect.\n\nYour dog may use it when he spots another dog. The slow movements start at the sight of the other dog. They start when you call your dog, and you are a bit irritable or your voice is commanding. They start when there are a lot of things happening around the dog, and he tries to calm things down. When you jump and wave and scream a lot to make the dog run faster, it will often have the opposite effect. The dog gets slower in order to calm you down.\n\nYou can use it when a dog seems frightened of you, or when you do not want to scare a dog. When you approach a dog that you want to put on leash, the slower you move, the better chance you have of making him stand still.\n\nShiba, a Border Collie agility dog, became slower and slower on the agility course. The owner ran around, jumped up and down, waved her arms and yelled a lot to encourage the dog. In the end, Shiba hardly moved around the agility field because she was trying so hard to calm her owner.\n\nThe owner is calling Candy to go home from the park. Some people and dogs stand between her and her owner, so Candy walks slowly past them before she continues to her owner.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 27, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "568b03fb-393b-4869-a3d2-16fd2a99163b", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "You say “down” in a harsh way. Your dog begins to lie down, but moves very slowly because he has to calm the anger in your voice.\n\nThis Dalmatian finds the training situation too much and releases tension by giving a bow.\n\nSuch communication can often be understood between species.\n\nBowing can be an invitation to play, particularly if the dog is jumping from side to side in a playful manner. If he stands still in a bow the possibility of it being a calming signal is high.\n\nYour dog may use this when he wants to become friends with another dog who is a little sceptical of him or a bit nervous. He may use the bow when he meets another animal such as a horse or cow that he does not feel too sure about.\n\nYou can use a similar signal yourself by stretching your arms, rather like when you yawn, but stretching down towards the ground.\n\nVesla wanted Buster, a St. Bernard dog, to feel safe with her, so after having walked slowly towards him, turning her head from side to side, she stopped at some distance and went down in play position. She stood there for several seconds until Buster felt safe with her and then did the same to answer her signal.\n\nLittle Pip the Chihuahua was scared of bigger dogs. When Saga came along, Pip went down in play position to make sure that Saga would be polite and nice to her. Saga answered her signal by moving slower, in a curve, and looking away.\n\nPrince, a Rottweiler, went down in play position when he met a Golden Retriever who was a little frightened. He stood there for several minutes, quite still, in order to make her feel better about him being there.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 28, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "4c88552c-f8b1-44a9-8c99-afdc746c9efa", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "A bow is often done in play. However, here both dogs bow, hold their position and turn their heads to avoid conflict – a definite calming signal.\n\nA dog that either turns its back to you while sitting down, or simply sits down when another dog is approaching, is signalling.\n\nYour dog may use it when another dog is making him feel uncertain or when you yell to make him come.\n\nYou too can use this signal. Try sitting when your dog is stressed and cannot relax. Make your guests sit down if you have a dog that is not quite sure about strangers.\n\nThese dogs are calming down both the owner and each other.\n\nRoscoe, a German Shepherd, turned his back to his owner and sat down whenever he was given a command. The command was given in a very strong voice, which evidently made the dog feel uncomfortable. I suggested that the owner talk to his dog in a normal, everyday voice, and the dog came to him.\n\nOnce Saga was out with me when two fiercely barking strange dogs suddenly came running towards her. She is best at facial expressions, but it was getting dark so she had to be more clear about her feelings. She sat down as they came rushing towards her. They immediately slowed down, stopped barking, and came up to her, sniffing the ground. Saga is never in trouble with other dogs. She is very sure about how to handle any situation.\n\nOne dog gives a very clear signal by lying down as the other approaches.\n\nFor a dog, lying down on his back, belly up, is submission. Lying down with his belly to the ground is an act of calming. It is a very strong one too, often used by high-ranking dogs like my Ulla, who had the role of parent in my pack.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "2d06e2f2-6e00-4fcc-bacc-b8bfb4d2d3ee", "word_count": 312, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 405 } }, { "page_content": "Your dog may use it as a puppy when play gets too rough, or as an adult when young ones seem to be afraid of him. When dogs get tired during play and want the others to calm down they may use it.\n\nYou can use it when your dog is stressed and trying to get attention. Lie down on the sofa. If a dog seems to feel scared of you, not daring to come closer, lie down. In many cases he’ll be there within a few seconds.\n\nThe vacuum cleaner makes this dog feel threatened. She lies down in order to indicate her discomfort at being in this situation.\n\nA group of dogs were playing in my training field when some of them began to get excited. Ulla noticed that they were becoming overwhelmed, so she went to the middle of the field and lay down, sphinx-like. One by one the others noticed her clear signal. In a matter of minutes, they had calmed down and also lay down around her.\n\nA scared little dog didn’t dare to approach Saga, who went into a down when she saw its fear. Gaining confidence due to this clear show of empathy, it only took a very short while for the scared dog to pluck up enough courage to make contact.\n\nAn adult dog was together with five puppies that were harassing him, obviously thinking he was a recycled toy! At first he was patient with them, but when they started to get too much he lay down. The puppies immediately responded, leaving him alone and playing with each other instead. When he got up, he was fair game, and they were at him once again.\n\nYawning is probably the most intriguing of the calming signals and is one which people seem to enjoy using.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "2ebab07c-505d-45b2-a8c8-a756bdeecc9b", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Your dog may yawn in many situations, such as when you go into the veterinarian’s surgery, when there is a fight or quarrel in the family, when you hold your dog too tight, or when a child goes to hug him, for example.\n\nYou can use it when your dog feels uncertain, a little bit scared, stressed, worried, or when you want him to calm down a bit.\n\nUlla is easily excited when someone is running or playing. Playing with her might end with her biting at my trouser legs. When she starts to get excited, I stand still and yawn a little, and she relaxes.\n\nMy colleague Ståle came to my house when I was dealing with a client with a fearful dog. As Ståle came through the door he immediately noticed the dog’s fear and responded to it by standing still and yawning several times. The dog was interested in him, then turned to me, and I yawned too. In a matter of minutes the dog was quite comfortable with us and made contact with him.\n\nCandy was restless and stressed one evening so her owner sat down, yawning frequently. Candy eventually stopped her restless wandering, laid down by the owner's feet, and relaxed.\n\nLittle Sheila was loved very much by her owner. Once when I was there the owner picked Sheila up, put her on her lap and hugged her. Dogs feel uncomfortable in such a tight situation, so Sheila yawned and yawned.\n\nAbove: Tia uses the yawn frequently. Simply opening her mouth rather than giving a full yawn is enough for her to make her point.\n\nRight: As yawning seems to be contagious, a dog will often answer a yawning dog with a similar signal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "6e6167ee-1d28-446a-9bd4-83d3898f9cd4", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "Lucy and Sophie communicate by sniffing the ground.\n\nSniffing can be a swift movement down towards the ground and up again. Alternatively a dog may persistently stand with his nose down to the floor for some time until the problem situation is over. As dogs also sniff to explore smells, it is important to look at the whole situation to be sure what it is.\n\nYour dog may sniff when another dog is approaching him, when someone is walking straight at him, or when a sudden situation occurs such as when another dog suddenly appears too close to him. When you walk along the\n\nroad and someone is walking directly at you, maybe carrying a big hat or something, your dog may sniff. When you call your dog and your voice shows annoyance or is rather authoritative, or maybe when you are standing facing full on to the dog, he may be likely to sniff several times while coming.\n\nSniffing is one of those signals that are difficult for people to use. I find it hard to practice sniffing. But something similar can be used: you might try sitting down, pretending to scratch the grass or to examine something on the floor.\n\nThe Springer Spaniel turns sideways to Tia and sniffs giving a clear signal of a peaceful intention.\n\nOne signal is answered by another (sniffing and turning away).", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "9f25b13f-f013-4318-9a61-5a935d0e2847", "word_count": 229, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 297 } }, { "page_content": "A client with a very aggressive dog named King came to see me. She didn't dare to let him out of the car, as she was afraid he would kill any dog outside. I took Vesla with me, and let her go by herself outside the car. I told the owner to hold the leash and open the door of the car, letting the “aggressive” dog out. And out he came - a monster of little golden mix breed - all teeth, and foaming and barking his head off. He really looked fierce. Vesla was only yards away, and when King came out of the car door like a rocket, she just put her nose to the ground and kept it there. King was snarling and acting wildly. Vesla was sniffing, but suddenly she made up her mind, went straight up to him, nose to nose, and King deflated like a punctured balloon. Ten minutes later he was able to run happily with seven other dogs in the training field.\n\nWhen I walked with Ulla down in the village the other day, a man came towards us with a little dog barking on leash. Ulla went to the side of the road, put her nose to the ground, and stood there as they approached and passed.\n\nCandy was called by her owner in the park, and she ran happily after him. Suddenly another dog came up to her. Candy slowed down, sniffed the ground, the other dog went on his way, and she continued her happy running to join her master.\n\nSara, a Doberman Pinscher, was left tied to a tree while her owner was doing something else. A man came towards her and she immediately turned side on to him and started to sniff the ground. She felt uncomfortable being approached by a stranger coming up to her while she was tied up, and tried to make him understand that. He did not understand, but I managed to help her by preventing him approaching her.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "4fdd40f9-4d40-4007-9d24-a025fdb3be67", "word_count": 336, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 436 } }, { "page_content": "Sophie tries to help a visiting Bearded Collie feel at ease by lying down.\n\nThis heavy down signal soon elicits an answering sniff, and both make their point even more clearly by taking up a side-on stance.\n\nWith all the polite preliminaries out of the way, the two dogs can get closer and eventually make contact knowing that all will be well.\n\nSlowing down and curving is an effective introduction.\n\nCurving or walking in a curve or at a little distance from another dog or a person is a signal. Mature dogs do not usually go straight toward each other. They might, if they use other clear signals, but it is impolite to do so and most of them try to avoid it.\n\nYour dog will often curve when you meet someone coming towards you on the path. It is frequently used when something is approaching or is in the dog’s way but where he still needs to go in that direction. When you walk with your dog by your side or in heel position and something comes towards him on that side, he might try to walk on the other side of you. If a dog looks fearful or angry, your dog will often use a wide curve around the dog in order to calm him down.\n\nYou can use this signal when approaching a fearful or aggressive dog or when you meet a dog that gives you a calming signal like sniffing, licking, head turning or something else. Sometimes you need to use a wide curve, or sometimes it is enough to change direction a tiny bit, just curving slightly past the dog. Watch the dog you are meeting, and curve as much as necessary to make the dog feel comfortable.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "b4a045ed-c92c-48a1-ae0d-317a2034f177", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Candy met a Newfoundland puppy who was not very well acquainted with other dogs and who was afraid of her. Candy immediately walked around him in a wide curve, her nose to the ground.\n\nMax met another male dog while out walking and went in a curve past him.\n\nA German Wirehaired Pointer named Connie was with her owners at my home. They said that she was scared of people, and as I came walking across the room towards her she licked and looked away. I immediately changed direction and looked away from her passing her only feet away, but curving. She came up to me right away and made contact.\n\nOne dog curves and the other answers by turning away.\n\nPhysically putting one’s body between dogs or people is a signal. When dogs, humans, or a dog and a human get too close, or if the situation is\n\nbecoming tense, many dogs go in between to split up and to avoid any conflict arising.\n\nYour dog may split up when you have a child on your lap and are making a lot of fuss of it, when you waltz or dance around with someone, or when you sit close together with your friend on the sofa. If two dogs become a little tense or if they are too close to each other, a third party, dog or human, may use this signal.\n\nYou can position yourself to split up dogs when they get tense, when your dog becomes uneasy or frightened in a situation, or when children are playing or doing things to dogs that make the dogs feel uneasy.\n\nIn a puppy class some larger puppies started to be a little bit too rough with one of the smaller ones. Before I had the chance to do anything about it, Saga went between them and took care of the small puppy. The others were not allowed close to the puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 40, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "360fa82b-edf4-42a6-aa34-31872ab8d521", "word_count": 322, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 418 } }, { "page_content": "One dog intervenes in a potentially threatening situation by going in between, turning his head and diffusing any contact.\n\nTwo adult dogs were playing rather wildly. A puppy in the same room felt uneasy about the situation and hid under the owner’s chair. Every time the other dogs came towards the puppy, he whined. Another adult dog, a Springer Spaniel named Dennis, came in through the door and went straight\n\nover to split them up to protect the little one. He stood beside the puppy, his side to the others, not allowing them close.\n\nI was out walking Saga when we met a little Poodle. Suddenly a Samoyed approached, roaring, attacking the Poodle. Saga went right in between them and stopped the attack.\n\nAn unknown dog rushes up to Turid. Saga positions herself in between in order to calm any threat. The dog responds by turning and moving away.\n\nA wagging tail is not always a sign of happiness. In order to interpret it properly you need to look at the whole dog. If the dog is crawling towards you, whining or peeing, the wagging tail is a “white flag,” trying to make you calm down.\n\nYour dog will use it when you have lost your temper. He will be trying to make you calm down and be nice again.\n\nYou will find it difficult to use this signal, I have never been able to do so very effectively!\n\nLobo’s owner came home with a worried look on his face, as Lobo had chewed up something the previous day and his owner was worried that it had happened again. The worried brow made Lobo crawl towards him, wagging his tail wildly, in the hope that his owner might look less angry.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 41, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "38b3c77b-c38c-4647-b60c-d4fcb6f94cce", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Many owners interpret this as the dog feeling guilty but this is not the case: the dog is reacting to the body language of its owner.\n\nMy daughter had yelled at her twin daughters. When she came into the yard where Saga was, Saga came up to her with a wildly wagging tail and smiling – everything she could possibly do to make her calm down.\n\nCora, a German Shepherd, always greeted her owner by crawling, peeing and wagging tail. The owner had used a lot of shaking, yelling and pinching her ears. Cora was afraid of him every time she saw him, and her way of greeting him showed fear and also that she was desperately trying to calm him down.\n\nThe signals discussed so far are the most commonly used signals in dogs. But dogs also calm others by \"playing puppy\" by making themselves small, trying to lick faces, blinking their eyes, smacking their lips, and lifting their paws.\n\nRight in front of me was a very aggressive Rottweiler who, by the sound of his deep growling, meant business and was intent on discouraging any interference in his privacy. The growling became deeper if I tried to move my head or something, so I had to stand still. I was certainly not going to back away, so all I could think of doing was blinking my eyes. After a while\n\nthe growling ceased, and suddenly the Rottweiler’s tail started to wag a little. From then on, it took me only a very short time to become his friend.\n\nA scared little Basenji growled at a German Shepherd, who stood still lifting his paw up and down, licking his nose and blinking his eyes. All these signals were extremely effective in making the Basenji calm down.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "530bd7fc-64b8-4c99-993a-77290007a32f", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "These are all calming signals. Dogs also have other kinds of signals. Some are threatening, like staring, walking straight towards someone, standing over another dog, growling, barking, attacking and showing their teeth. Some only tell us about feelings of excitement or arousal inside the dog, such as raising their hackles and tails.\n\nThese signals are often misinterpreted, as they are easy to see and they are what people notice most. They tell us something about the dog’s excitement in that situation, but don’t be too preoccupied with them. Watch out for other signals indicating the dog is threatening or calming. They will tell you more.\n\nMisty is a little worried about the camera. She turns her head away to calm herself, but needs to keep an eye on the camera just in case!\n\nNot only is it important to be able to see these signals in your own and other dogs, but it is also important for you to be able to help your dog. By\n\nknowing the signals yourself and understanding them well, you can identify the dog's signals when they happen.\n\nIf you have not been very aware of them before, you can teach yourself the skill of seeing them by training yourself.\n\nSpend some time at home sitting and just observing your dog. In a quiet home atmosphere you will not get many signals, but do so anyway as a start. Then, once someone moves or walks around the house, or when visitors arrive, something will happen where your dog will give off signals and then you can observe what he is doing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "0f97f5a0-9d0c-4828-91f4-2635107e3bbf", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Now, make use of every situation where your dog is meeting other dogs. Go to the park perhaps, or somewhere where dogs are off leash and then you can concentrate on what your dog is doing. Every time your dog meets another dog, look at him the second he sees the other dog at a distance, and notice which signals he is using.\n\nAs the camera points towards the dogs, both turn their heads to calm the situation.\n\nThis Terveuren could be licking because of the camera, or he may be trying to calm down the youngster.\n\nPippi, a five-year-old German Shorthaired Pointer, was brought to see me because, her owner said, she was dangerously aggressive toward other dogs. On approaching my house, Pippi’s owner stopped down the road, not daring to bring her dog any closer. Pippi looked calm and nice, greeted me politely, and seemed to be a dog you could live with. Her owner looked pale and stressed, and said that she was scared about what was going to happen.\n\nI told her briefly what I was about to do, and she turned even paler, looking as if she was likely to faint. I told her to stand still, not to say anything, not to do anything, and that she could give me the leash if she wanted to. No, she wanted to hold Pippi herself. And then I called for my little Elkhound, Vesla, who had been waiting around the corner of the house, and she came. The second Pippi saw Vesla she was ready to start attacking and barking.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "2143e9c1-4bb6-438b-8449-cf9f19d0d8c9", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "At a glance Vesla had taken the whole situation into consideration. She stopped and stood still for a second with her nose to the ground. This made Pippi stand still instead of leaping. Then slowly Vesla started to move in curves towards Pippi, nose to the ground, her side always to Pippi. Vesla’s language was so clear that Pippi stood fascinated looking at her instead of attacking. Getting closer, Vesla became even slower and the last few yards took several minutes to cross. Pippi then put her nose to the ground too, and there they stood, sniffing the same spot, without looking at each other.\n\nPippi’s owner came back several months later. She arrived while I was in the middle of a lesson, so I had a group of puppies around me. Pippi was let out of the car, went quietly over to one of the puppies and licked him. She had changed her attitude to other dogs completely.\n\nThis is a typical Vesla story. For twelve years she changed the lives of dogs who could no longer communicate with others.\n\nA crouch and lip lick are both aiding communication.\n\nBuster, a big St. Bernard dog, was afraid of other dogs. Whenever he saw one, he hid behind his owner and had a really worried look on his face.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "53930526-6d2d-432a-bd1c-839d42d8c215", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "Buster and his owner stood waiting for us on the path down to my farm when I let Vesla out. Being fond of every dog she met, she ran up the path to meet Buster as soon as she spotted him. But then she saw something in the other dog’s face, eyes or attitude that made her change her happy demeanor. She stopped running cheerfully towards him with a wagging tail. Instead, she started to move slowly, her head turned slowly and very distinctly from side to side as she walked, using no direct eye contact, no speed. The big dog stood there, evidently understanding the message she gave him. Some twenty feet away from him she stopped, going down and stretching out her front legs in what we call a play position, only this time it was not to invite him to play. She just stood there until she saw something in his eyes that invited her to go even closer. He did not make any attempt to retreat, but simply watched her. Then suddenly he too went down stretching out his front legs, and within seconds they had made direct contact.\n\nVesla saw his worries, understood what to do, and did her job, making him feel less worried. They communicated, they understood each other, and therefore could solve the problem – helping Buster to conquer his fears.\n\nDogs are experts at this. Conflict solving is a part of their heritage from their ancestors the wolves, and they read each other like we read books. It is a part of their survival instincts and pack behavior. We will never be as good at it as the dogs are, but we can understand more about what they are telling us. We can observe, understand, and let the dog know we understand. We can give signals back to reassure them we understand. We can communicate better during training and daily life together with our dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "dc09801e-dd8f-43b9-aa4b-12df9ad7026c", "word_count": 324, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 421 } }, { "page_content": "We can learn the language of dogs in order to communicate better, have a better relationship with our dogs, and to do a better job in teaching them and bringing them up. We can avoid conflicts and also reduce the risks of having scared, insecure, aggressive and stressed dogs. We also reduce the risk of getting into dangerous situations ourselves, being injured and bitten as a result of the dog’s self defense.\n\nExpert conflict solving! Riley and Dennis position themselves carefully to avoid conflict.\n\nThe slim hunting dog stood shaking in the middle of the room shivering, panting, looking desperate. She was a pitiful sight; so thin that her ribs\n\nstood way out. Within a few seconds the train near the house had passed, and then she started to behave more normally, coming up to greet me, being friendly, as these dogs usually are.\n\nShe lived beside the railway, and she was scared to death of the sound of trains when she was inside the house. She had become restless, had lost fifteen pounds in a short time, and had developed an abnormal heartbeat.\n\nI was not at all sure what to do. Move to another house? Use drugs? I decided to try something when the next train came.\n\nI told the owners what to do, and when the faint sound of the train appeared, I sat yawning and stretching my “front legs,\" avoiding eye contact with the dog, but looking out of the corner of my eye to see her reaction. The owners were to look another way, talk normally to each other and drink their coffee. She shivered and panted, but looked at me when I was yawning. She looked at her owners and back again. The panting was not as heavy this time. Could this be possible?", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "64ef9d9f-0204-4a76-bbcb-505b517b3485", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "While the next train was passing, everybody sat yawning and did not look at the dog. There was a definitely a positive reaction in her.\n\nI gave the owners some homework to do, and I returned one month later. They did not call me during that time, so I knew that the situation had not worsened. I came into the house with the dog greeting me like an old friend. I sat down, and she jumped up onto the sofa beside me (something that was allowed!) and curled herself up comfortably, falling asleep.\n\nShe had clearly put on weight and her ribs were not sticking out anymore. As we sat there, the sound of the approaching train began, coming closer and closer. The dog looked up at me with one eye, saw that I was still yawning, seemed to say, “Yes, that’s what I thought”, and promptly fell asleep again.\n\nI was speechless and so happy. It was possible to reach through to a scared dog by using her own language, calming her fear. Once she had become calmer still her owners would be able to use some fun activities when they knew a train was coming, and that would also help .\n\nThis dog was one of my very first clients on whom I used calming signals, so I will never forget her.\n\nI met her years later and she still recognised me. She lived to be an old and healthy dog, hunting rabbits in the forests. And now, I believe, if there are forests in heaven, she is still happily hunting there.\n\nSaga was helping me shovel snow down the farm road, when some people suddenly showed up with two dogs off leash.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "5a2b00e2-9545-4be0-9b53-57a53a537d8c", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "The dogs saw Saga and with a roar they both started running towards her, sounding and looking really fierce. I immediately started to move towards Saga in order to get between them, but it became clear that I could stop and simply let things happen. Saga had already done her job. When they came rushing towards her, she turned her back on them and sat down.\n\nSaga’s action immediately took the energy out of the strange dogs. They slowed down, stopped barking and started to sniff the ground. They actually never went all the way up to Saga. They stopped at a distance and stood still, quietly sniffing the ground.\n\nSaga did not bother to make contact with them. Because they were behaving so badly to her, it took away any interest of friendship.\n\nSaga turns her back on a Setter to encourage a calmer approach.\n\nThe Tibetan Mastiff was brought to me by his new owner. In a normal voice the man asked the dog to sit, but at the same time he bent over him. The dog immediately shut down as his contact with reality became distorted, retreating from this world to an inner world where no harm could reach him.\n\nThese gentle giants with the deep and growling voices are so misunderstood, and someone had done something to make this dog afraid of being alive, unable to cope with the real world.\n\nThe dog sat there, completely lost, and the owner tried to pull at him. I asked him to let it be. I went over and sat down beside the dog, looking in the same direction as he was, gently stroking his chest with very slow movements, all the while yawning and breathing deeply.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "aaa6a26a-5ec7-44fd-bc88-a9dbe847d30a", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "I sat there for fifteen to twenty minutes and gradually the dog started to come back to reality. He seemed bewildered, almost looking through me. He began to yawn, still sitting there hardly moving, not a threatening thing in sight. It took him some time to be conscious, but then he licked me and looked at me, apparently feeling safe.\n\nHe loved me to bits after that. I think I could have done anything with him. He had total trust in me and would hardly ever leave my side while he was visiting me with his owner.\n\nIt takes so little to be friendly to a dog, and the result can be so overwhelmingly huge. You have always the choice of being threatening or calming. To me the choice is easy.\n\nIs your dog being “stubborn” or “distracted” or just walking away sniffing as a result of your actions? It might be that the dog is feeling a little insecure, not coping or perhaps unsure of how to deal with the situation. Be patient and give him time. Or you can help him by taking him out of this situation or by being less demanding and he will soon feel more comfortable.\n\nThe dog on the far left is finding the whole situation too demanding. She moves away and turns her back.\n\nStress hormones are necessary for us. We need some quantity of them to be able to work, to have enough energy to do things we have to or want to do. Sometimes we are in situations that make us scared, upset, very excited or angry. As a result we get more hormones moving around our bodies. Then the adrenalin starts pumping.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 53, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "e56dfc97-ed64-47c0-b8f6-ccf7b56c198c", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "You are out driving, and suddenly you have a close accident. You manage to get to safety, but within a few minutes your heartbeat begins to race and you get sweaty palms. You become upset or angry, you feel shaky or thirsty, or you want to go to the toilet. All kinds of reactions will tell you that your adrenalin level is high.\n\nWe humans become stressed in the face of accidents, anger, violence, and other things that provoke excitement; but first and foremost we get stressed in situations where we do not feel we can cope. Something is threatening us, and we are not sure about our ability to manage.\n\nDogs get stressed for the same reasons. They become stressed in situations of threat, of pain or of discomfort. They become stressed when we are angry or punish them. Excitement stresses them, such as when male dogs scent bitches in season. Lots of full speed action might stress a dog. But primarily a dog gets stressed for the same reason as humans: when they feel unable to cope.\n\nWhen dogs start to get stressed, they can show it in many ways. When they are stressed by the environment, you will usually see that they start using calming signals to try to ease the stress. So knowing the calming signals will also help us to see when a dog starts to feel stressed.\n\nScientific research has given us more information about stress. In Scandinavia studies have been done of parachutists, pilots, divers and others who frequently deal with situations of danger.\n\nA dog with a constantly high stress level will be much more likely to get stomach problems, allergies and heart trouble. They will be faster and more violent in their defense. They will probably have an activated defense mechanism at a much earlier point than others.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "f296ff22-e6d0-4456-8475-763ed6fff6d8", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "I work a lot with dogs who attack, lunge at people or dogs, and behave aggressively in many situations. Their defense mechanism is activated much earlier: they will react faster and more fiercely towards a threat than most dogs.\n\nAn excited German Shepherd uses a play bow to communicate his intentions.\n\nThe adult Alessi (on the left in the photosbelow), is alittle uncertain of some dogs, and immediately the nine month old puppy on the right understands.\n\nMaya, the puppy, already has a highly developed series of signals to communicate her peaceful intentions.\n\nInteractions such as this one are an everyday occurance in the lives of dogs. But what do their signals mean and how can we interpret them?\n\nAt first Maya gives heavy calming signals: sitting and turning right away.\n\nAs both dogs become more comfortable Maya relaxes her position, remains sitting, keeps her head turned away and blinks.\n\nTo end the encounter she checks on Alessi and moves away.\n\nMany dogs have a high stress level because of demands resulting from a young age, anger and aggression from the owner’s side, or being constantly commanded to obey, with the owner often using a harsh voice. A dog such as this is stressed by these things every day. As a result, stress levels remain high, and consequently the dog never calms down. This dog will also have a very high degree of self-defense. He is the one to behave aggressively towards other male dogs or people.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "e7a763fd-23e9-4849-8641-f173ffdff0d7", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "This dog’s aggressive behavior might be learned. There is a slight possibility that some of it may be genetic. However, there is a high probability that this is a simple reaction to a life that makes him stressed. His owner’s anger and demands make him unable to cope with daily life. He gets stressed. Together with the stress, it is also extremely likely that there will be a much higher level of self-defense, which is all too often the problem the owner comes to me with.\n\nVery often these dogs suffer from illnesses such as stomach problems or allergies or show problem behaviors like fear, aggression or barking.\n\nDogs learn by association. When, every time he sees another dog, he is being jerked on lead to make him heel or stop barking at the other dog, he will associate other dogs with a painful neck or back. Each time he sees another dog he will become stressed more and more quickly, and, in addition his defense mechanisms, will become much more rapidly activated by the heightened stress. A dog under this kind of pressure is also likely to behave aggressively toward other dogs, often to both males and females.\n\nThis leads up to my conclusion: There is no, absolutely no , reason or excuse to punish, be violent, threatening, or forceful towards a dog or to demand too much of him.\n\nAll of these things will make a dog stressed. In time, the stress will make him ill. He will become reactive more quickly, showing aggression to dogs or people, because he has a higher defense mechanism. It may end by him biting someone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "a4c45bcf-42a6-4235-be19-a7b5eaa85a44", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "We always have a choice of how to behave. Then we can understand our dogs’ calming signals and tell them that we understand. Or, we can overlook the signals and make the dog feel he cannot cope, consequently making him stressed.\n\nIf we behave in a threatening manner or in a way that makes the dog become unsure, scared, and defensive, there will be consequences. Sometimes this defense will be seen as fear. Some dogs have more flight\n\ndefense, and they will try to escape, look afraid, be nervous or look like it. The fight defense will look like aggression.\n\nWhen going through some of the enormous amount of material I have collected about scared and aggressive dogs, I can clearly see how this fits in.\n\nAggression, or defense, is a symptom. Very often a high stress level, because of environment, is the cause.\n\nWe must try to treat the underlying reasons for the behavior, not merely look at the symptoms. That will not get us very far.\n\nLook at your dog’s stress level. Find the reasons why your dog is stressed. By looking critically at yourself and your surroundings, you can often find out a lot all by yourself. Sometimes it can be helpful to ask someone to help you see the situation from the outside. We often become blind to what we do.\n\ndirect threats (by us or other dogs) such as violence, anger, aggression in his environment\n\njerking at the lead, pushing him down, pulling him along\n\nnot having access to his toilet area when he needs it\n\ntoo much overexcited playing with balls or other dogs", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "9e6c05cf-69c0-4b27-adbe-0a9bfe936b94", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Scratching is often the dog’s way of showing stress.\n\noverreaction to things happening (for instance the doorbell ringing or a dog approaching)\n\nbiting and chewing furniture and shoes and other things\n\nfur that seems to be hard, breakable, standing on end\n\nlosing concentration – inability to concentrate for more than a very short time\n\nallergies - many allergies are really stress, scratching\n\nfixation on certain things - glimpses of light, flies, crackling of firewood\n\nusing displacement behavior when you ask him to do something\n\nSeveral signs indicate that this dog is not entirely comfortable, including turning the head, looking away, open mouth and light panting.\n\nIt is not my intention to discuss all the things we can do to release stress in dogs - that would take another book by itself. However, here are a few basic ideas:\n\nChange environment and routines wherever possible.\n\nStop using harsh methods, violence and painful things in training and handling, there is no excuse for it, and the dog’s reaction to it shows us how valueless it is.\n\nWe can teach ourselves to see, identify and use calming signals.\n\nAvoid putting the dog in a situation where he experiences hunger, thirst, heat, or extreme cold.\n\nEnsure that he has the opportunity to go to the toilet as often as he needs to. Try to find your dog’s correct level of exercise and activity: too much or too little is not good for him.\n\nLet the dog be a part of his pack as much as possible: in other words, allow your dog to be with you or someone in the family, and teach him only", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "f37fb996-6818-4d37-b62b-042057efc96d", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Closeness, touching, massage, lying close together without keeping your dog there by force: all of these provide stress release for puppies as well as adult dogs.\n\nFear tends to make dogs more stressed. The stress activates defense, which makes the dog more fearful. Where do we start to break up this bad circle?\n\nOne of the best ways to reduce stress is to be able to communicate with dogs. When you can make yourself understood by dogs, it is a wonderful feeling - for people and dogs alike. Calming signals are the key and seeing through that opened door has been like looking into a childhood dream of talking to the animals.\n\nThese dogs in a sit-stay in an obedience situation are finding it stressful. Each looks away from the other dogs, doing his best to calm himself and the others despite knowing that he is expected to stay in this position.\n\nYou can also begin to help your dog by stopping all force, punishment, aggression and anger towards him. Stop being threatening and start using calming signals. Your dog will understand and answer you back, and he will feel a lot better if you are friendly.\n\nBoth dogs turn their heads away from the child staring directly at them.\n\n5 Using Signals in Practical Handling and Training\n\nWhen you are training the dog to lie down or sit, do not bend over him. Bend your knees or stand upright. You might turn your side to the dog especially if he doesn’t like the exercise. Bending over will make the dog move slower, or he may try to avoid doing it completely.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "53e5e030-31ea-4f28-8f33-679b977c0e64", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Do not stoop towards the dog coming to you. If you do, in most cases he won’t come all the way up to you at all, but will run past you, looking away from you. Stand upright, maybe with your side to the dog and then it is much more likely that he will come right up to you.\n\nDo not jerk or use a tight leash when commanding your dog to heel. It hurts, it is painful to the neck, and makes the dog try to turn away from you, sniffing the ground or giving off other calming signals. Keep the leash loose – make a smacking sound with your tongue when you want the dog’s attention, turn away from him in a right hand circle and the dog will follow if he is not dragged along or jerked at. A smacking sound, some praise and a\n\nturn to the right - that is all it takes, and it is much more pleasant than getting a sore neck.\n\nSitting close and putting your arm over the dog’s back will often make him feel uncomfortable as this dog shows by yawning.\n\nIf you have a dog that is a little worried by another dog, walking parallel with human barriers in between will make him feel more comfortable.\n\nOver time the distance between dogs can be narrowed.\n\nEventually the human barriers can drop out one at a time until the dogs are walking parallel with confidence.\n\nCurving away from another dog will also help both feel more comfortable as this is their natural language.\n\nIf one dog is approaching another head on, someone \"splitting up\" by going in between them will help the dogs.\n\nThis is a question I often get. Dogs can’t lose their language completely because the language is a part of their genetic heritage, and they are born with it. However, they can suppress their signals if they get punished for using them, or have ever been attacked when they used them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "55ddf78c-6585-4daf-8c43-11929d905c78", "word_count": 334, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 434 } }, { "page_content": "I have had experiences training dogs that seem to have no language at all. A young dog or a very stressed dog will often not use calming signals in a stressful situation. The reason for this is that often, when stress arises, the brain doesn’t function logically. It is possible to help a dog like this by making the situation easier to cope with, by creating enough distance between the dog and what it percieves as threatening, letting the dog face fewer threats, or allowing the dog to have the time to watch what is going on. Then the signals will return.\n\nBy simply allowing the dog to have more distance, he will be able to cope better and will feel more relaxed. Even better is to walk parallel to what he is worried about: using a barrier can also be a good idea, a barrier made of people if he is worried about dogs, or dogs if he is worried about people, for example.\n\nAnother thing to do is teach ourselves and our dogs to walk on a loose leash so that they get no pull or jerk on the leash, as mentioned in the previous chapter. The slightest discomfort when looking at another dog will ensure he has a negative association with that dog.\n\nAs we have seen, dogs learn by direct association, and so we must always be careful what signals we give to the dog when he looks at another dog, a person or a child. If we want him to form positive associations, to have positive feelings about anything, we must only give positive signals. In that way we can change a dog’s association with absolutely anything and anybody.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "5617ecc3-bf9b-4960-ba30-5abf71a457fd", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "If situations get a little tight or people, dogs or objects come too close, always let your dog have an “emergency exit” and let him use it if he feels like it.\n\nThe change of association can be a miraculously quick way of helping a dog to feel better about a situation.\n\nSome years ago I persuaded an English colleague to observe puppies. She did a lot of rescue work and always had an amazing number of dogs in her house, many of them pregnant and thrown out by someone. They had their puppies in her house, so she had a lot of opportunities to observe newborn litters.\n\nThis colleague observed litters during a two year period from the day they were born until they left 9-10 weeks later, and I received the results of her observations.\n\nIt was obvious that newborn puppies could not use many calming signals, as they have very little control of their bodies at that time, and often the only signal they could give was yawning. They yawned particularly when they were picked up and handled, and they did that from the very first day. One puppy was no more than seven hours old when he gave his first calming signals.\n\nAll of the puppies yawned 100 percent of the times they were picked up, from day one. Since then we have observed litters born in the safety of their own home with no stress of being moved or thrown out, and in these cases the calming signals would come days later.\n\nThe signals increase as the puppy grows older and have more control of their bodies, and when puppies turn up in my puppy classes they seem to master them all, or understand them all.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "42badb90-3f92-4184-80bd-b6eaa9251131", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "In order for puppies to become better at communicating and have the best opportunity of coping with other dogs, it is so important that they have the possibility of being together with other dogs all the way: all kinds of breeds, sizes, colors and appearance. It is the best education your dog can get, and it will save you so many problems later. Social and environmental training are definitely the two most important things in a puppy’s education.\n\nThis puppy wants to make contact but is aware of the older dog’s heavy calming signal.\n\nShe then continues by sniffing but still the older dog remains in a down.\n\nThe puppy finally gets the message that contact is not an option, and so she politely turns away, keeping an eye on the other dog.\n\nEven as she moves further away she continues to indicate her peaceful intentions by dipping her head as if sniffing.\n\nWith the increased distance the puppy gets a response as the other dog begins to sniff.\n\nUsing a combination of slow movements, standing still and curving, the two dogs approach.\n\nContact at last! Thanks to skilful communication it’s another successful interaction.\n\nFor many years it has been a myth that you have to take a leadership position to prevent a puppy from trying to take over and to be the boss. Many sad dog destinies and many problems have come out of that myth, and it is not the way it works.\n\nStop using the word leadership, and use instead the word parenthood, as this is exactly what it should be.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "6e4a1cd0-1f46-4604-af11-eaaf8b3cd283", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "A wolf pack is created by a pair of wolves who have cubs. The cubs grow up with the most patient and loving parents anyone can wish for, and in return they will love and have a natural respect for their parents lasting their whole lives. They are fed first, before the adults even think about eating, and they grow up in a world of love, safety and care.\n\nWhen they get old enough, some of them will leave to make their own little family. Others stay with their parents, helping to bring up the new cubs, and hunt together with them. They never try to “take over” or anything like that as the natural respect lasts a lifetime.\n\nWhen the puppy comes to new owners who start disciplining the puppy, punishing it or telling it off, it scares the puppy who is totally unprepared for this kind of treatment. The puppy’s world becomes scary, frightening, and it might start to growl out of fear because of all this aggression he was not prepared for. Then he is punished for growling out of fear, and so problems start to occur, and the puppy’s life becomes a misery.\n\nThe little puppy came to you totally trusting, and sees you as its new mother. He expects you to be as caring and loving as his own mother has been, and expects to be treated in the way he is used to.\n\nForget about being a leader of your puppy. Start being a parent.\n\nThe little puppy should learn a few rules and things, but not all at once, and absolutely not in a scary way. Look at how good dog mothers do it. They are so skilled at it and we have so much to learn from them. We often forget", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "856301ed-d358-40b1-983e-759e29b54926", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "to teach them what we would like them to do and instead punish them for doing the wrong thing. However, they are not even capable of understanding the difference between right and wrong. In the life of dogs there is no “right” or “wrong” in the moral sense of the word. Dogs have to learn what we think is good or bad.\n\nUntil they are about 4 - 4½ months of age, puppies have a “puppy license” and can practically do whatever they like without the adult being telling them off. Why do we people so easily turn to violence? Think about how scary it must be for a little puppy to be threatened and physically abused by someone many, many times its size.\n\nThe dog will gradually suppress his own language and will learn nothing but the language of anger and aggression. Nobody cares about his feelings. As a result a dog may become introverted and may not dare to do anything, or he might become nervous and frightened, stressed and aggressive. Dogs treated in this may give up being dogs. They become problem dogs, because they have problems.\n\nA safe, secure, patient and friendly puppy-hood and adolescence will give the dog the very best basis for growing up to be a harmonious, well- functioning adult dog.\n\nRemember that wolves bringing up wolf cubs get perfect wolves out of them, and dogs bringing up puppies get perfect dogs out of them. When we humans bring up puppies, we get problems.\n\nIt is about time we looked at leadership as a myth we do not need. We need to be parents, good parents, the way dogs are good parents.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 77, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "0423c145-246d-418c-b5f6-db6dbf99774e", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "All puppies need security and stability. We need to protect our puppies, to allow them choices and to teach them with kindness. Only then will we really gain their trust, allowing a relationship to develop based on mutual respect.\n\nWhen you have learned to read your dog and understand what the dog is telling you, you will have a better relationship with your dog.\n\nUntil now much of the relationship has consisted of a one-way communication: I, the owner, tell you what to do and you do what I say. This has nothing to do with a relationship.\n\nRemember that every time you are close to a dog, you have a choice how to behave. You can act in a threatening or a friendly way. There is no, absolutely NO, excuse for scaring a dog. Dogs are survivors. They defend themselves when they feel threatened. Some will try to get away, others may answer back, and whatever solution the dog decides upon, it is you who made it happen.\n\nBy telling your dog you are friendly, it does not need to feel insecure in your presence. It can change the whole relationship to your dog.\n\nYou always have a choice. Whatever the situation, dog or incident you have always this choice of what to do. You can make tiny changes like looking away instead of staring, walking slowly instead of marching or running, turning away or standing still. Or you can accept that your dog is giving you a calming signal to tell you that he is tired, or cannot concentrate any more, or that he needs a break, for example.\n\nIf you want your dog to respect you, you must also respect your dog. A good relationship is based on two-way communication, and living together in a well-balanced togetherness. Leadership does not solve anything; it only creates problems, in our lives as well as in the dogs’ lives.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "d51d20f3-0893-4a52-abbd-7304aec027cf", "word_count": 319, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 414 } }, { "page_content": "As a five year old I had a great wish for growing up doing “something for dogs.”\n\nI did not know what, since I didn’t know what there was to do. As years went by the wish only became stronger, and I started on the road that led me up to my own flourishing dog training school and my desire was fulfilled.\n\nI feel I reached my goal and even went far beyond it. I hoped for helping dogs in my neighborhood - I have already been to several parts of the world. I train close to 1,000 dogs every year, many of them being helped to a better life. I even received a big money prize for my work with dogs. I believe I must be the only dog trainer that has achieved that.\n\nI also know for certain that the ultimate goal can never be reached. There will always be new dogs needing help, it is a never-ending story. But I know now where my road is winding, and I am more occupied by the road itself than of what is hiding round the next corner.\n\nI feel privileged to be able to do what I have always wanted to do. I will go on doing it until the end of my days, using all my skills, my energy, and knowledge to help as many dogs as I can - doing something for dogs, because they have done so much for me.\n\nTurid Rugaas has spent most of her life with animals. A former racehorse trainer, Turid has always known instinctively that kind methods are the most effective, and has worked in this manner with any animal coming into her care.\n\nShe is founder of Hagen Hundeskole in Norway, training dogs and their owners, and spends most of her time travelling around the world to deliver her message.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "ef701d0c-664d-45b2-9058-de72356baf46", "word_count": 310, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 403 } }, { "page_content": "Best known for her work on calming signals, studied at the end of the 1980’s along with a colleague, Ståle Ødegaard, Turid produced her first book in 1996, with a video/DVD that followed shortly afterwards. Turid is a founding member and President of the Pet Dog Trainers of Europe, an organization devoted to teaching through kindness and respect.\n\nTurid is a founding member and President of the Pet Dog Trainers of Europe, an organization devoted to teaching through kindness and respect.\n\nBones Would Rain From the Sky Time Warner, 2002. Dogs - A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution University of Chicago Press, 2001. Dominance, Fact or Fiction 2002. Wild Health Pheonix, 2002. Behavior of Wolves, Dogs and Related Canids. Florida: Krieger, 1987. Man Meets Dog. London: Methuen, 1954. On Aggression. New York: Harcourt, Brace and World, 1966. The Wolf: The Ecology and Behavior of an Endangered Species. Minnesota: University of Minnesota Press, 1981. My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do? Dogwise\n\nMany of these books and others by these authors are also available from the extensive mail order section of dog-related books, videos, and training equipment at:\n\nCalming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You DVD by Turid Rugaas\n\nThe companion to Turid’s best selling book: On Talking Terms With Dogs is now available on DVD. Turid presents us with a unique opportunity to see footage of dogs using calming signals, increasing our own ability to study and observe the signals. Turid, who is the foremost authority in the world on dog language, gives explanations and shows us how we can use calming signals in our own interactions with dogs. Become an addictive dog-watcher with this fascinating, compulsive viewing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "ca2f811d-ba4a-43f1-b919-b80c90e18e5f", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Now you too can truly be “on talking terms with dogs”!\n\nNorwegian dog trainer Turid Rugaas, best known for her groundbreaking work on calming signals, describes her kind and effective method for encouraging dogs to walk without pulling.\n\nQuick and easy to learn, the method can be applied to any dog no matter what size, breed or age. Dogs that are easily distracted, or that encounter situations where they may lunge, bark or give aggressive displays can be helped to walk calmly and quietly on a slack leash. City, town or country walking can all become more relaxed, reducing stress for dog and owner.\n\nTurid’s method is explained in simple steps with informative photographs which aid understanding, and the book includes tips on equipment to use, reasons for pulling and trouble shooting, along with case studies.\n\nBarking is natural and almost all dogs bark. It is one of the many ways dogs communicate with each other as well as with humans. In this book, author Turid Rugaas, well known for her work on identifying and utilizing canine “calming signals” to interpreting behavior, turns her attention to understanding and managing barking.\n\nThink of barking as your dog’s language. By learning to identify what your dog is expressing when he barks, you can take steps to minimize their negative effects.\n\nAlso available from Dogwise Publishing Go to www.dogwise.com for more books and ebooks.\n\nCanine Body Language A Photographic Guide Brenda Aloff\n\nYour dog is “talking.” Are you listening? More important—are you WATCHING? Dogs are attempting to communicate with humans as well as other dogs all the time. It’s up to us to learn how to interpret their native language—the language of body movement, facial expression and proximity to things and other beings.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "2e4ce327-85a3-4166-84ce-7b4ff4667d53", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Canine Behavior A Photo Illustrated Handbook Barbara Handelman, M.Ed, CDBC\n\nDogs have deliberate, subtle, and often humorous ways of expressing\n\nthemselves. Canine Behavior has 1,000 images of dogs, wolves, coyotes, and foxes illustrating the behavior and communication principles defined in the book. Created for everyone interested in dogs—pet owners, trainers, veterinarians, ethologists, and behaviorists. Spend hours, if not years, studying and learning from this book.\n\nHuman medicine has long recognized the health implications of stress on our physical and mental health. Dogs feel stress, too. Learn how to identify and resolve more than 30 signs of stress in dogs and help your dog live a longer, happier life. Simple, sensible solutions for both the professional and concerned dog owner.\n\nLearn how to conduct behavior assessments including what to look for in a dog’s behavior, how to document areas of concern (forms and rating scales are included), and how to determine if problem areas can be improved using behavior modification techniques. Excellent for shelters and rescue groups for screening behavior problems. Best used with The Language of Dogs DVD.\n\nUnderstanding Canine Body Language and Other Communication Signals Sarah Kalnajs\n\nWatch canine body language in action! What is your dog trying to tell you and other dogs? How can you tell when play turns into aggression or whether a dog is showing friendliness, fear, or stress? Behaviorist, trainer and popular seminar presenter, Sarah Kalnajs teaches you how to read body language so that you can develop a better understanding of what’s really going on in the canine world.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "3f6e905c-2c90-4644-b635-38f016949f01", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "How to be the Leader of the Pack And Have Your Dog Love You for It! Patricia McConnell, Ph.D.\n\nLearn how to love your dogs without spoiling them and provide boundaries without intimidation. This booklet clarifies how to be a benevolent leader and avoid aggression related to fear or dominance. If you want to be a natural leader to your pack, this book tells you how to do it in a peaceful, kind way.\n\nDogwise.com your source for quality books, ebooks, DVDs, training tools and treats.\n\nWe‘ve been selling to the dog fancier for more than 25 years and we carefully screen our products for quality information, safety, durability and FUN! You‘ll find something for every level of dog enthusiast on our website www.dogwise.com or drop by our store in Wenatchee, Washington.", "metadata": { "source": "data/OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "0b7b7a2f-f3b3-48b2-92bd-94f582deeca0", "word_count": 132, "book_title": "On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals", "book_description": "Dog communication and calming signals", "book_filename": "OnTalkingTermsWithDogsCalmingSignal.pdf", "token_count_approx": 171 } }, { "page_content": "If youʼd asked me a year ago what Iʼd be doing the summer of 2009, I guarantee I would not have guessed Iʼd be training a puppy for my dad. But several months earlier Iʼd had some premonitions that this might be coming up. >>\n\nFirst, my parentsʼ Scottie, Meggie (Figure A), got splenic\n\nlymphosarcoma. She had her spleen removed and subsequently seemed perfectly healthy. But the initial scare put an idea in my dadʼs head. He was hinting that he wanted to add another dog to the family. When I would visit them— they live 85 miles away—with my Jack Russell Terrier, Jonesy (Figure B), my dad would slip in statements like, “Let me have Jonesy,” or “Jonesyʼs mine.”\n\nOkay, anyone who knows Jonesy, the $300,000 dog, knows the only way he would live with someone else would be over my dead body. Heʼs known to my friends as the $300,000 dog because of the number of hours of training Iʼve put in with him over the last five years. And thatʼs just so that he can function like a normal, well-behaved dog in day-to- day life. He was so bad that in spite of his apparently fantastic behavior when working with me, all of my dog training assistants who worked with Jonesy that first year and a half decided they would never get a Jack Russell Terrier—at least not one like him.\n\nphenomenally well after her surgery. For months she was running around like a Mazda Miata with a new transmission. But eventually the lymphosarcoma came back. We had to put poor Meggie to sleep.\n\nSome people need a few weeks to grieve before they get", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 15, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "08285e81-6117-4b20-9244-48d004c746cc", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "another pet. Some people need a lot longer. Others need a pet at all times. My dad, it turns out, is one of the latter. Not a week had gone by before my dad was demanding, “Get me an Australian Cattle Dog. One just like my last Cattle Dog, Roody” (Figures C and D).\n\nmany to have a tendency to herd, nip and bite? Their reputation is so infamous in some circles that a fellow\n\nveterinarian who worked in Australia once told me, “When you drive to a farm, never get out of the car if thereʼs a goose or an Australian Cattle Dog.”\n\nWhy an Australian Cattle Dog? Because 20 years ago when\n\nI didnʼt know any better, Iʼd bought him an ACD puppy who we named Roody. According to my dad, Roody was the perfect dog—like a canine combination of Einstein and Gandhi.\n\nI have to admit that Roody was the perfect companion.\n\nStarting at 12 weeks of age, he always stuck close to us, was magically calm as a puppy—no mouthing or incessant playing —and he practically self–potty trained. He was also extremely eager, which made him appear pretty smart. Mostly he just tried things over and over at the speed of light until one of his attempts turned out right. There wasnʼt a whole lot of thinking involved there.\n\nWhat my dad forgets about Roody is that he used to bark\n\nballisticly when people or dogs approached the car, and snapped at dogs who came too close. My parents just sort of avoided the problem situations.\n\nAnd I remember when my roommate in veterinary school", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 17, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "202a7183-0b57-49e6-adc8-ee164eceb1bf", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "borrowed Roody for the UC Davis Picnic Day Parade to walk alongside our classʼs float. Although Roody knew how to heel nicely for me, he hadnʼt had consistent training from my parents. So for them and others he bounced around in different directions like a Kong® toy on an elastic rope. And then there was the description by a family friend when referring to Roodyʼs rude treat-grabbing skills (as trained by my dad): “Everyone knows that when giving treats to Roody, he gets the whole beef jerky.”\n\nOf course, there was no way my dad would listen to me or\n\nmy mom warning him that Roody wasnʼt as perfect as he remembered and that another Cattle Dog wouldnʼt be just like Roody anyway. I had even owned a second ACD, Zoe, who was clearly very different from Roody. She was great with people and dogs, for one. But my dad only had Roody in his mind when he thought Australian Cattle Dog.\n\nWhen Roody was 13, my parents traded him to me for the\n\nyounger Meggie. At that age Roody could still hang with me on 10-mile runs and play Frisbee. And I quickly trained him to be friendly around other dogs and take treats nicely. Despite his age, the training was easy because dogs will do whatever behavior is rewarded, as long as the old behaviors no longer work.\n\nHumans, on the other hand, can be set in their ways. My\n\nmom and I knew that at 81 years of age, my dad wasnʼt about to change his mind or his ways. Either I was going to get him a Cattle Dog, or my mom would come home one day to one that my dad found on a whim. My dad wanted a Cattle Dog just like Roody and he wanted one now!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 19, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "2d2be0e1-e628-49c6-a25d-83818a6cb4ea", "word_count": 304, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 395 } }, { "page_content": "So my assistant, Melissa, and I perused the web for\n\navailable ACDs, assuming I wouldnʼt find one who looked just like Roody for months. And then out of the blue, there was a litter of puppies available nearby and their photos were posted\n\non the web. There was one female available. Her parents were OFA-certified fair and good, tested negative for progressive retinal atrophy, and the female puppy looked close enough to Roody to be acceptable to my dad.\n\nbehavioral health. Her parents were both friendly to humans— no crazy nipping at the heels or defensive postures. Plus she was curious but polite when she greeted the test dog I brought with me. So I reserved her for my dad and picked her up several days later when she was 8 weeks of age and just before the rest of her siblings would be leaving to their new homes.\n\nIn fact, I got her several days before my dad knew. That way I would have time to start training her without listening to his incessant nagging to drop everything I was doing and bring his puppy to him. My goal was to start her socialization to people and dogs and to train her through the puppy Learn to Earn program in a week, so that she would already have good habits before my dad got her. That way heʼd have less chance to mess her up.\n\nLucy running with her littermates: These puppies are racing after their mom for a meal. The mom is high-tailing it in the other direction trying to keep away. At\n\nThese puppies are mature compared to many other breeds of puppy their age.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 20, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "25805725-1010-435c-93a9-4a32f199e4d7", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "They can already run around for prolonged periods without getting tired.\n\nI have to admit, I was not looking forward to having a pup,\n\ndealing with potty training and putting up with the busybody nature of a puppy. But it turned out that in her first week with me, Lucy (thatʼs the name my Dad gave her even before he had her) learned to be perfect. By the end of the week, she was automatically sitting to greet people, to go in and out of the house, to get her leash on and basically every time she wanted something from me or we were walking and I stopped. She met about 10 dogs and played nicely with them, but also came when called. And she loved all the people she met.\n\nTo me she seemed the like the easiest puppy ever. But my\n\nassistant kept telling me sheʼs the same as all the other puppies she and I have worked with and that I just like Australian Cattle Dogs, so I was imagining Lucy was better.\n\nAnyway, regardless of how good she was for me, the ultimate goal was that she learn to be polite for my parents, too. That meant they needed to learn the techniques I had used as quickly as possible, without me being present to tutor them through it. So I created a book illustrated with 250+ photos for them to use. This book. Since then, I have revised and added even more photos and information.\n\nI hope you enjoy the photos and the reading. By following the steps illustrated in this book, youʼll quickly develop a clear line of communication with your new companion and be on the way to developing your own perfect pup.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "161dd05a-8beb-42ff-9341-a66dc81ae986", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "This book is a step-by-step guide for understanding and\n\ncommunicating with your puppy, so you can teach good habits quickly while forming a strong, trusting relationship. It provides the basics of reading body language and understanding perception as well as a comprehensive guide for making desirable behavior a habit rather than a trick performed only when food is present.\n\n“I was not looking forward to having a pup, dealing with potty training and putting up with the busy body nature of a puppy. But it\n\nturned out that in her first week with me, Lucy learned to be perfect.”\n\nTypically, pet owners donʼt interact with a new puppy until they bring her home at 8-12 weeks of age. But what happens even before then, during the first precious weeks, can affect her for the rest of her life. >>\n\nLack of exposure to a variety of people before 12 weeks of age can result in fear of unfamiliar humans, being raised as a single puppy can lead to impaired social skills, and being raised by an anxious or timid mother can result in puppies who are more withdrawn. In fact, while many people assume that fearful dogs are so scared because they must have been abused in the past, itʼs far more common that the cause is lack of adequate early socialization.\n\nFrom health, to interactions with littermates, to the richness of her early environment, itʼs essential that the puppyʼs breeder or early caretaker take an active role in shaping the puppyʼs behavioral health. And to do that, they must understand normal puppy development and perception. It will be useful for you to understand, as well.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 23, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "f8bf8edc-a610-4d40-ae1c-3c4f506672ec", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "A puppy is born deaf and blind, and immediately after\n\nbirth has one mission—to find warmth and food. She instinctively pulls herself in the direction of any heat source while reflexively rooting her nose whenever it touches an object. Once she finds the warm underside of her mother, her rooting pays off as she grasps a nipple and starts sucking in the warm, antibody-rich milk.\n\nDuring the first two weeks, puppies spend most of their\n\ntime sleeping huddled with their littermates, with brief interruptions for nursing. Most of their sleep is REM or stage IV sleep—a stage characterized by involuntary twitching and high brain activity. One reason puppies sleep in a heap is that they have no shivering reflex or insulating fat. That means a healthy newborn can only maintain a body temperature\n\nabout12°F above her environment. In fact, her core body temperature wonʼt hit its normal of 101.5°F until she is about four weeks old.\n\nHer ability to regulate her temperature improves by about\n\nthree and a half weeks old, and then puppies tend to sleep side by side instead of in a heap. Later on they may sleep more spread out. But even so, puppies and dogs often choose to sleep in contact with a wall, object, or person.\n\nAt this age, only three of their five senses are working—\n\ntouch, taste and smell—and even these are not fully developed. With only a fraction of their senses functioning, puppies do not yet exhibit signs of fear of their environment. However, they do respond to pain, discomfort, and minor disturbances by whining.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 27, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "5a312d8a-092a-4def-9aaa-f55175819f7d", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "When separated, these 12-day-old puppies use scent as well as heat to find their littermates, whom they rely on to help keep warm.\n\nChanges in temperature or little disturbances—hunger, human handling and body position changes brought on by the movement of siblings or the mother—can upset neonates. As humans, our first instinct is to provide a completely protective and stress-free environment. However, some exposure to these stressors is important for puppiesʼ development. A little stress early on helps them develop the ability to cope with real life.\n\nThatʼs why the neonatal period is an ideal time to start\n\nhandling the puppies for short amounts of time. Feeling the ears, feet, tail and mouth, and holding them in different positions for even 30 seconds to several minutes a day may greatly decrease their stress and reactivity to handling. Changes in their reactions can be seen within a week or less. The amount and type of handling may need to be tailored, based on the puppyʼs response as she matures.\n\nThis particular puppy has been handled for 30 seconds a day, starting at 3 days of age. By 14 days of age she no longer whines or struggles when held in different\n\npositions. Lucyʼs breeder has also taken care to handle Lucy and the other puppies\n\nin her litter, which will help Lucy accept everyday interactions such as grooming,\n\ntowel-drying wet feet, and other daily care with ease.\n\nPuppies can detect taste as soon as they are born, and can\n\nshow taste preferences early on. Once they start moving around at about three weeks old, they will explore food items in their environment.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 29, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "65da45a1-84e4-46d7-b2e2-6dc2057cea77", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs have 10 times more surface area within the nose with which to detect smells and 100 times more brain cells dedicated to their sense of smell than humans. Even as a neonate, a pupʼs sense of smell is better than ours. While the sense may not be fully developed, as the puppy matures her superior scenting ability will open up a world that humans are unable to perceive. She will grow up to have the ability to detect a drop of scent diluted in an Olympic-size pool of water, the potential to smell cancer on the breath of a human, and the ability to distinguish between individual human odors even of identical twins if both twins are present for comparison.\n\nA puppyʼs superior sense of smell opens up a world that humans are unable to perceive.\n\n1.2 Vision Starts at the End of the Neonatal Period.\n\nAlthough the eyelids open at 10 to 14 days of age, the young puppyʼs vision is poor at first. The puppy can follow objects and respond to movement, but her vision is not sharp. The acuity will improve some, but even as adults, dogs donʼt have especially sharp vision. They donʼt need to read newspapers or street signs. And because they are much lower to the ground than humans, smell and hearing can be more useful in finding food and sensing danger, since scents and sounds can travel around objects that might block their view.\n\n1.2.1 Dogs have lower visual acuity but are better at detecting motion.\n\nEven when their vision is fully developed, the puppies will\n\nneed to stand 20 feet from an object to see what a person would see at 75 feet. And although their field of vision is wider than that of humans, they will tend not to notice stationary objects, especially in their peripheral vision, until", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "2215cc2b-1621-4a51-b314-3328d22c07a9", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "the objects move. If an object moves suddenly, it may startle the puppy or spark a chase response.\n\nDogs have 20/50 to 20/100 vision. That means they have to be 20 feet from an object to see what a human could see from 75 feet away on average.\n\nIn adulthood, the puppy will have a wider field of vision than humans, but only half as much overlap between visual fields. The overlapping area is where best\n\nThereʼs a reflective layer of cells in the back of the dogʼs eye called the tapetum. Itʼs the reason a dogʼs eyes seem to glow at night when you shine a light on them. The tapetum reflects light across the retina. Before the tapetum is fully developed, at 12 weeks of age, the retina has a purplish hue.\n\nDogs also have a high percentage of light-sensitive photoreceptors in their eyes. As a result, older puppies and adult dogs can see better at night compared to humans. In fact, they can see in four to five times less light than humans.\n\nContrary to older reports, dogs do see in color. Itʼs just\n\nnot as rich as color vision in humans. Humans have three different types of color receptors, called cones, and each cone type functions best at a different wavelength—red, green, or blue. All of the colors we humans see are produced by mixing red, green and blue light.\n\nDogs have two types of color receptors. One cone-type\n\nfunctions best in the violet-blue region and another type functions best in the yellow-green region. Consequently, dogs are a bit similar to humans who are red-green color blind.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "48b02e71-9597-443f-bbac-c32204b3254d", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "We know that dogs have these receptors that transmit\n\nsignals from the eye to the brain and that they also perceive differences in color because studies have been done in which dogs have been trained to pick the odd-colored circle out of a choice of three circles. To rule out hue or brightness as a distinguishing cue, the researches systematically tried patches of different brightness.\n\nWhile we cannot determine exactly what the dog perceives the color to be, researchers think what we see as red, orange, yellow or green appears as different saturations of yellow to a dog, while blue-green, blue and violet appear as different saturations of bluish gray. So for dogs, if you want them to distinguish between colors, the best colors to use are blue and yellow.\n\nIn discrimination studies, the dog is trained to indicate when he sees a circle that looks different from the other two. In this case he would pick the blue circle (Fig.\n\n1.2.3A). Dogs canʼt distinguish between red and green, so in this trial the dog\n\nwould not signal any difference because he canʼt see any (Fig. 1.2.3B). Photos\n\ncourtesy of Gerald Jacobs, Professor of Psychology, University of California, Santa\n\nDogs have two types of color photoreceptors while humans have three. As a result, dogs probably perceive the world in different saturations of yellow or\n\nThese photos depict the colors that humans with normal color vision see versus what a dog is likely to see. Photo courtesy of Dr. Cynthia Cook of Veterinary Vision,\n\nInc. Animal Eye Specialists (www.veterinaryvision.com)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "77754a07-6e36-4e4c-8d7c-fe12ecd270ff", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "By 14 days, the eyes are open and the ears will open\n\nshortly, enabling the puppies to start recognizing and bonding with littermates and the humans and other pets around them. The development of these senses coincides with the ability to stand and then move around, so that by 21 days the puppies start playing with and exploring their environment.\n\nA puppyʼs vision and hearing systems are both incomplete\n\nat birth. The ear canals open at 12 to 14 days, and once the ears are open, puppies may startle when they hear sounds. They generally recover quickly though. Right from the start, the range of hearing is nearly twice that of humans; dogs can hear from 20 Hz to 35 kHz—well into the ultrasonic range.\n\nThese 23-day-old puppies can stand and walk now. By this age they can also see and hear and bond with other animals in their environment.\n\nAnd at 23 days of age you can easily see their open ear canals.\n\n1.3.2 As soon as puppies can hear we can start habituating them to new\n\nAs soon as puppies can hear, the breeder or caretaker\n\nshould consider playing sound CDs so that the puppies can get accustomed to the type of sounds they will hear later on in life. This way they are less likely to become fearful of common sounds due to lack of early exposure. These sounds include: traffic, car doors slamming, fireworks, thunder, jack hammers, pots clanging, sirens, children among others. Itʼs especially important to expose the puppies to CDs with these sounds if the breeder or caretaker lives in an environment in which they are not likely to hear these sounds otherwise. For instance, if she lives in the countryside, the puppies are not likely to be exposed to the sounds of loud traffic.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 36, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "f70979c1-c86c-4feb-b463-2b035bef00bd", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "Recorded sounds such as those on the SoundsGood CDs (Legacy Canine; www.legacycanine.com) can be a great way to start getting young puppies\n\naccustomed to sounds they will hear later in life. Play the sound at a low volume\n\nand increase the volume once the puppies clearly show no reaction to the sound at\n\n1.4 The Sensitive Period for Socialization: (Three Weeks to Three Months).\n\nOnce puppies can see and hear and get around well, they\n\nstart interacting more with their littermates as well as their environment. This is when they are primed for bonding to other animals and individuals, for learning that objects, people, and environments are safe, and for learning what the body cues and signals of others mean. It is the sensitive period for socialization. It runs from roughly three weeks to three months of age and it is the most important socialization period in a dogʼs life. Puppies who do not get adequate socialization during this period tend to be fearful of unfamiliar people, or dogs, or sounds, or objects and environments. Most people mistakenly think that such dogs must have been abused early in life but their fear is most commonly a product of incomplete or inadequate socialization for the particular individualʼs needs. Since this golden period starts before puppies go to their final home itʼs important that the breeders or early caretakers start the process of providing the puppies\n\nwith the positive experiences needed to adapt well to living with humans.\n\nAt 3.5 weeks of age, while the other puppies explore this puppy-safe play area, the one on the right hides and falls asleep against the back of the pen. He also", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "b5f7f223-7137-4a69-8de1-3247bed3367c", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "trembles and is less willing to eat when unfamiliar people hold him. He is fearful.\n\nBut once heʼs put back in his familiar whelping area, he is more comfortable so he\n\nBy 4.5 weeks, with frequent handling paired with food, and visits to new environments, this puppy is now relaxed when being held by unfamiliar people and\n\nmore exploratory in various environments. In this photo we hold the clippers up to\n\nhim to get him used to the sound of the clippers and the feel of its vibrations. His\n\ncoat is likely to need trimming when he gets older and the experience will be more\n\nDuring this socialization period puppies start learning how to interact with others and about the consequences of their interactions. For instance, they may learn that when mom raises her lip, it may be followed by a snap and a reprimand. So the pups learn to be mindful of her body language.\n\nWhat they learn depends on the type of interactions they\n\nhave. Just as individual children grow up with different parenting styles and sibling interaction that shape their overall behavior and personality, individual puppies and puppies from different litters are partly a product of the animals and humans they interact with.\n\nPuppies may or may not learn to temper their play:\n\nAll of the puppies play roughly with the runt of the litter. All of the puppies in this litter play roughly with the runt of the litter. They grab her and shake her by\n\nthe scruff. As they get older they may learn to temper their play if roughness\n\ncauses play to stop or if it consistently causes the other puppy to snap intensely", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 39, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "813d422b-0fd7-4acb-98d9-d43c38d87fb9", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "By week eight itʼs clear that some puppies playing with siblings can learn inappropriate play skills. The puppies in this litter play frequently but at about 6\n\nweeks of age the larger puppy started playing too roughly and growling when\n\nplaying with his siblings. This caused one of his siblings, the smaller puppy in this\n\nphoto, to become overly aroused too and the two would fight for up to 5 seconds.\n\nOver a two week period the fights increased in intensity until they were occurring\n\nabout 2-3x a day and in about 50% of observed play bouts. The foster caretaker\n\nstarted training alternate behaviors by just calling the puppies and getting their\n\nattention so they would not continue to practice being overly aroused.\n\nLearning to respect personal space: By interacting with an adult dog, Jonesy, these puppies have learned that they need to be respectful of some dogs around\n\nfood. Even the rowdy pup who also growls at the others over food has learned to\n\nback away when Jonesyʼs getting food out of the puzzle toy. This is an important\n\nlesson that is best to learn when young. If the rowdy puppy gets a lot of practice\n\ngrowling at other dogs for months and then finally gets growled at as an\n\nadolescent, instead of backing down, he may be so aroused that he escalates to\n\nLearning from positive experiences: These puppies have had positive experiences with Jonesy and other dogs already. Weʼve given them lots of treats\n\nwhen they have been around new dogs so that we can ensure their experiences", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 41, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "6002d6b6-46ae-4561-abce-4bda95381ea6", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "have been positive. Weʼve also rewarded calm sitting behavior when around other\n\ndogs. As a result, these puppies do not accidentally learn to be afraid of Jonesy or\n\nother dogs who reprimand them appropriately. They have specifically learned to\n\n“ During the sensitive period for socialization (three weeks to three months of age) puppies start learning how to\n\ninteract with others and about the consequences of their interactions.”\n\nThe puppies in this litter have been snapped at by their\n\nmom when they have chewed on her legs and tail. They have stopped their chewing temporarily but then gone back to bothering her 30 seconds later. However, with Jonesy, who roars like a lion over minor infractions even though he never bites, they remember their lesson, even a week later.\n\nJonesy has had a lasting effect on these puppies: In this scenario we placed two puppies on the other end of the grass so that we could take photos of them\n\nrunning to us. Because Jonesy has chosen to chew on a bone at the edge of the\n\ngrass between them and us the puppies hesitate as if plotting what to do next.\n\n(Figure 1.4.1G,H) Then they sprint by giving Jonesy a wide berth. (Figure 1.4.1I)\n\nNotice this puppyʼs ears are back because she is a little fearful of what might\n\nHereʼs what the puppy looks like when she is running playfully. Note the forward ear position.\n\nLucy has had many positive experiences with dogs even before seven weeks of age: As a puppy, Lucy has interacted with a number of adult dogs owned by her breeder. Within her litter the puppies were getting in spats because they tended to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "073d705f-3a45-4e53-9c11-e55aba6cc1f5", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "play too rambunctiously. But upon first greeting with a dog that I brought when I\n\nvisited, Lucy was well mannered. She walked up to him, a little tentatively to greet.\n\nShe had never seen a dog with a smushed face. Once she greeted him she was\n\ncompletely relaxed and interested in interacting but not overly focused on him.\n\nEqually important, she was polite and did not try to jump all over him like she\n\n1.4.2 Providing positive experiences with unfamiliar people of different\n\nBecause dogs are frequently fearful of unfamiliar people,\n\nespecially men, it is essential that they be exposed to many people starting before they go to their final homes. The breeder or early caretakers should invite guests to come interact with the puppies while providing treats and toys to ensure the puppies are having a positive experience. Interacting with only household humans is not enough.\n\nThese puppies were nervous at first when they were handled by visitors. They showed their anxiety by trembling when held or refusing to take treats and moving\n\naround and playing less when the visitors were around. They were also more fearful\n\nof men, a common occurrence with dogs and puppies. By six weeks of age, after\n\nhaving several visitors a week, they are now relaxed around most new visitors,\n\nItʼs important that visitors wear a variety of clothes. My Jack Russell Terrier, Jonesy, randomly barked at people wearing Ugg® boots for a year and he barked at one of my assistants because he didnʼt recognize her when she was wearing this", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "a77227a9-569c-4eb9-85a9-7b5f9dbd4215", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "hooded sweater. One of the puppies from the litter pictured here also reacted to\n\nthis personʼs hood or her boots. He barked at her once while jumping back. Then\n\nhe decided she was safe and approached to get treats.\n\nTo puppies and dogs who have never seen kids, children\n\ncan look like little aliens. As puppies mature, children can also start looking more like toys or things they should chase because they scream and run and flail their arms like injured prey. If the breeder does not have or know children whom the puppies can interact with she should at least play sounds of children and babies from a sound CD such as SoundsGood CD (www.legacycanine.com). The new family should also be told that the puppy is lacking in this experience and that they should make a special effort to provide good interactions with children.\n\nThese puppies have never seen a child, but because theyʼve been socialized to so many other things by seven weeks of age, they immediately accept this child as\n\nThe child also knows how to feed them treats and this helps them to associate her with good experiences. Because these puppies have already been handled a lot,\n\nthey let the child pick them up and remain relaxed regardless of the position in\n\nMany puppies will live with cats or other animals at some\n\ntime during their life or they may see animals of other species. It would be best if they could react calmly instead of barking, lunging or chasing these other animals.\n\nReward calm behavior when other animals are present: This puppy is learning to sit calmly in the presence of the cat. Not only do we want dogs to feel safe and", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "b176eb81-4e79-481f-8edf-958236013bcb", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "unafraid around other animals, we also want them to behave calmly. So we should\n\nreward calm behavior. This puppyʼs entire litter is good with cats—at least those\n\ncats in two household settings. The puppies sometimes try to solicit play but are\n\nnot overly rambunctious when the cats decline by walking away. Lucyʼs breeder has\n\nexposed her to cats too which should make it easier to train Lucy to be calm\n\nProbably everyone knows a dog whoʼs afraid of walking on\n\nmetal manhole covers in the street or grates on the sidewalk. Or dogs who wonʼt step on wet grass to go potty. By exposing puppies to different surfaces when they are young we can greatly decrease the likelihood they will be afraid of walking on a variety of surfaces later in life. This exposure to different surfaces is something that can easily be started by the breeder-especially since the sense of touch is well developed, even at birth.\n\nWalking on wood surfaces: This puppy is receiving treats for walking on a rough, raised wooden surface. Because of this she has no problem stepping onto the\n\nWalking on metal surfaces: These puppies find yummy treats on this metal surface and readily climb on. With repeated practice they will have no problems\n\nstanding on a metal scale or metal table at the veterinary hospital. We are using\n\nsmall pieces of Natural Balance food roll, but we could also just use a portion of\n\nStanding on an exam table: This puppy has no fear of being on the metal examination table at the veterinary hospital. We give him treats to ensure that he", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "cf108e0e-0d66-4f97-bb2e-6af3e582d8f0", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "has a positive experience. Weʼre using baby food on a tongue depressor as our\n\nClimbing on an elevated surface: This puppy is learning to climb up on a low- lying ironing board which is about the same height as the riser between steps in a\n\nstaircase. He feels confident enough to leap off. With this one obstacle, heʼs\n\nlearning to navigate climbing and heights and is getting used to an ironing board\n\nwhich some dogs find scary. This seems like a small feat; however, my Jack Russell\n\nTerrier, Jonesy, although fearless with heights, was fearful of ironing boards for\n\nBalancing on wobbly objects: This puppy is learning to stand and balance on wobbly objects. This is great for building confidence as well as improving athletic\n\nSkateboards and other objects with wheels: Itʼs not unusual for dogs to fear items with wheels like skateboards and strollers. This puppy is learning to\n\nassociate the skateboard with good experiences. Next we need to start moving the\n\nskateboard around so that it makes noise while keeping the puppy in a happy state\n\neither on the skateboard or standing in sight of it. Other rolling items to work with\n\ninclude strollers, shopping carts, and luggage with wheels.\n\nExposure to water and wet grass: The weather during the first eight weeks of these puppiesʼ lives has been warm and dry. As a result, they havenʼt had any\n\nexposure to rain, cold, or wet grass. The best simulation we have is a little infant\n\npool with water and fake grass. This will help accustom them to the feel so that", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "2780334c-c981-4cdf-8996-2dd36160d154", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "they donʼt grow up to be sissies who canʼt go out to potty when the weather is\n\nrainy and the yard is wet. You can use wet sod or mud instead of fake grass.\n\nExposure to frost or snow: These Corgi puppies live in Alaska so they are receiving exposure to the cold early on. They run on the frost and play in the cold\n\nImagine what housetraining would look like if these guys didnʼt like going outside\n\nPreparing puppies for a bath: At some point the puppies will need a bath. We can prepare by giving them treats while they are in a tub-like setting.\n\n1.4.5 Introducing puppies to other man-made objects and sounds.\n\nMost people never appreciate the every-day sounds and\n\nsights that might be frightening to a pet or even a person raised in a completely different environment. But once you have a dog who missed out on key environmental experience when young it can be overwhelming to deal with all of the objects they fear.\n\nDogs must learn that regular everyday objects are safe. Jonesy, the Jack Russell Terrier that I adopted at eight months of age, poses with some of the objects he\n\nused to be afraid of but is OK with now. When walking down a typical city street he\n\nwould bark at or tremble and shy away from about two to three objects per block—\n\ngarbage cans, sidewalk signs, murals of dogs, skateboards, metal pipe sticking out\n\nof the wall. The list goes on. He was fearful because heʼd been raised in a rural\n\nBrooms and cleaning equipment: These wellsocialized pups have no fear of this new object, a broom.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "779acb11-8855-43b0-b917-aae66586640d", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Brooms and cleaning equipment: To Jonesy however, the broom coming towards him is as scary as a knife.\n\nPlastic bags: Another common item that startles dogs is plastic bags that float around in the wind. To these puppies itʼs just another item littering their\n\nMany dogs are afraid of vacuum cleaners and similar objects. They stay away or bark and lunge at the objects—sometimes even while wagging their tails. This can\n\nmake cleaning the house an extra chore. Here we turn the vacuum on but start with\n\nit far away while giving the puppies treats. If they wonʼt take treats, then the\n\nWhen the puppies are completely comfortable with the loudness and distance of the vacuum cleaner it can be moved closer.\n\nItʼs easy to train puppies to ride in a crate or car especially\n\nwhen they are under 8 weeks of age, and itʼs important too. Once the puppy is adopted she will generally need to ride in a car to her new home. The safest seat for puppies in a car is in a crate. If the puppy is not already used to these things then the trip to her new home can be quite traumatic.\n\nTo train young puppies to enjoy crates and car rides, just\n\nplace them in a crate with treats for short periods and let them out when they are quiet. For car rides, just take them for multiple short car rides to places where they have good experiences (such as back to their familiar home) and give treats too. Barely any effort is required for most puppies at this young age.\n\nThese puppies have been taken on a number of car rides starting at three weeks of age. They have also been individually crated and separated from each", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "a4afc3dd-e35c-43da-baf0-f762a1ec84f3", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "other starting at six weeks of age. By eight weeks of age most can make it through\n\nShortly after I got Lucy, when she was well on her way to being happy and wellbehaved, I called my dad and told him I had his new dog. Remembering how he had started with our first two dogs 30 and 25 years ago, he asked, “Should I get her a choke chain? And a big bowl?” Boy! Have times changed. >>\n\nSeveral decades ago I wouldnʼt have batted an eye. Back when I started, training was mostly all force-based and our rewards were just praise. We put dogs on choke chains or pinch collars and yanked them when they did things wrong. We assumed that they knew exactly what we wanted and were being stubborn or willful if they werenʼt well-behaved.\n\nNow that I knew about science-based training methods, I almost gasped. At this point in our training Lucy was already sitting politely for everything she wanted and coming when called. The thought of giving this sweet, innocent pup a correction of any sort would be like spanking an infant for putting something in her mouth!\n\nWhen I first started training, all dog training was force-based. It focused on correcting unwanted behavior using a choke chain or pinch collar. Times have\n\nchanged and now I could not imagine having either product on Lucy, especially at\n\njust eight weeks of age when she was just learning the rules and had already\n\nRealistically, I donʼt think my dad was planning on giving her a choke chain correction. Even my traditional Chinese dad had learned that training is different now and had lamented at how mean heʼd been with our other dogs. He understood the importance of rewarding desired behavior with food and other rewards. But his understanding was very basic and things had changed much more than he knew.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "32dfe0c3-7cc6-434c-8ac7-6549a5d14f03", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "The training of this pup was going to be way different from anything he remembered—and very different from what most people do.\n\nOne practice that has changed in the last 20 years is the age at which we start training and socializing pups. You may have heard that you should wait until your puppy has gotten his shots to socialize him or until heʼs six months of age until you train him. Well, partly due to Ian Dunbar and his movement to make puppy socialization classes the norm, itʼs now more widely known that puppies need positive experiences with many people, pets and places, usually starting by at least eight weeks of age. Thatʼs because these early weeks are the prime time for puppies to form bonds with other individuals and learn to recognize other animals and environments as being safe. (More about this in chapter 6.)\n\nIf you omit this structured early learning and wait too long, as the puppy matures he may become fearful of new things. As a default behavior when heʼs afraid, he may defend himself by barking, growling at and later biting these scary stimuli.\n\nWhat we have especially learned in the past few years is\n\nthat the benefits of this socialization far outweigh the risks of catching any infectious disease, as long as proper precautions are taken to protect the puppy. For instance, we recommend you walk your puppy in neighborhoods where most dogs are vaccinated and stay away from parks (especially dog parks) and other areas frequented by dogs of unknown vaccination status.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "db1a4d4f-6be3-4ce1-aa78-6166b24808a2", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior Position Statement on Puppy Socialization recommends that puppies be given many positive experiences with various people, places and environments starting well before 12 weeks of age.\n\n(To download this position statement as well as a roundtable discussion on the\n\nIn the past, when training was primarily based on using a\n\nvariety of corrections (choke chain, pinch collar, forcing puppies onto their sides or backs, spray bottles, cans that make noise, electronic shock collars) to punish unwanted behaviors, puppies crumbled under the pressure and shut\n\ndown. In fact, I remember training our second childhood puppy to walk on a leash by just hooking him on and letting him scream until he started walking, and thinking that this is how you were supposed to do it. He just had to buck up! Because this type of harsh training early in life could produce a variety of possible future negative effects, the trainers who used these techniques developed the idea that you couldnʼt train puppies until they were old enough to handle “tough” training without being “ruined.”\n\nTechniques we use now in early learning are similar to those used for kids. We focus primarily on controlling the environment and rewarding desirable behaviors to build confidence. Puppies arenʼt “ruined” or even scared by these techniques. We also make sure the puppy does not receive rewards for unwanted behavior.\n\nThe approach we use now in training puppies is similar to the approach we use for kids. We focus primarily on controlling the environment in order to prevent", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "78f99230-7df0-40c6-8693-85ab1e33a58b", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "unwanted behaviors from occurring and we focus on rewarding the behaviors we\n\nwant. We also make sure we avoid rewarding unwanted behaviors.\n\nSome aversive-based trainers do still use negatives to train puppies. In fact, aversive-based trainers even use shock collars at low levels to train puppies by removing the low-level zapping when the puppy does what they want. The shock is relatively low, but it is enough to stop the pup in his tracks and make him want to immediately figure out how to turn it off, even if he was interested in doing something else.\n\nWhile such training may seem fine to someone whoʼs never experienced anything else, to those who are careful readers of canine body language and encourage dogs to solve problems, we often see subtle or even major negative effects down the road. A puppy with a confident personality may be just fine with this type of training, except he may just be less willing to try new things or learn new behaviors without precise guidance—since creativity and many new behaviors earn him low-level shocks. A softer, more sensitive or incompletely socialized puppy may have more serious fear- based consequences when aversive methods are used.\n\nAs a result, AVSAB, as well as board-certified veterinary behaviorists (www.dACVB.org or www.AVSABonline.org) and certified applied animal behaviorists in general (www.animalbehaviorsociety.org), recommend positive-based methods for all dogs, especially puppies. They advise against coercion-based training as a first line of training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "0aae1808-cfa3-4aa5-986a-e422814dc38d", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "Animals, including puppies, perform behaviors that are\n\nreinforced even when the reward is unintentional. So to train polite behavior we will focus on:\n\nControlling the environment so that the puppy doesnʼt have a chance to practice unwanted behaviors (chewing your shoes, climbing on chairs, raiding the trash).\n\nRemoving reinforcers—attention, petting, tug, treats or play—for unwanted behaviors.\n\nRewarding only the desirable behaviors instead, such as sitting to greet instead of jumping or focusing on you instead of harassing your adult dog. Weʼll use all motivators to our advantage.\n\nIf this sounds a lot like how you would raise a child, itʼs not a coincidence. The laws that govern learning and behavior in dogs also guide behavior in cats, horses, goats, giraffes and all other animals, including children.\n\nAs soon as the pup enters the house, he begins to learn and form habits. You canʼt stop this from happening. Whether or not youʼre aware of it, every interaction you have with the puppy is a learning session. The puppyʼs either learning behaviors you consider naughty or heʼs learning to be polite, happy and well-behaved.\n\nThe humans in the household are developing habits, too. They may be learning to unconsciously reward behaviors that can become a bigger problem later on, and the humans may have problems changing their patterns of interaction with the pup. In general, itʼs best to develop good habits right away in", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "7e182d9a-f6c9-4b04-87df-e32e7a621fb0", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "both human and pet, rather than teaching the puppy undesirable habits you will later need to fix. But donʼt worry, the training is fun. And systematically rewarding good behavior is a wonderful way to bond with your pup and develop a happy dog. If you wait a few weeks and suddenly start training, your training technique will need to be five times better, because your dog will have to unlearn as well as learn. Plus your puppy will be more coordinated and better able to perform problem behaviors, just the way toddlers become more challenging as soon as they can walk.\n\nStart handling exercise early while the puppy is still small and easy to physically position and hold (Figures 2.4A). This 12-week-old puppy is friendly to\n\npeople. If you try to examine her mouth or handle her feet she already growls, tries\n\nto bite, and struggles violently (Figures 2.4B,C,D) Imagine how she will be at the\n\nveterinary hospital or for basic care and grooming as an adult! With each week the\n\nbehavior may become more difficult for owners to fix. Puppies change quickly\n\nduring their early weeks. So by waiting even a week or two to start training and\n\nhandling exercises you may end up needing to work way harder to fix problems.\n\nINCORRECT: Start training before bad habits form: Figure 2.4 E,F,G: Chewing on objects, nipping on arms, raiding the garbage, jumping on people and climbing on\n\nfurniture— these are behaviors that puppies will naturally perform. Without a\n\nprevention plan in place, the behaviors may become well established which makes", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "2df3dd2a-b48b-4caa-8263-bce5b5d07515", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "them more challenging to change. Additionally, as the puppy matures, the damage\n\nfrom these behaviors may increase. Itʼs best to form desired habits from the start\n\nTraining your pup is about setting clear rules and\n\nguidelines, and communicating them by rewarding the desired behaviors exactly as they occur and removing rewards for the undesired behaviors. While our habit is to use human words, in truth what animals and puppies care about is your body language and the actual consequences of their actions. That means humans have to be aware of their every movement around a pet, because their movement is what conveys their wishes.\n\nConsequently, training is a skill that must be practiced,\n\nlike playing tennis, dancing or playing the piano. Little variations in how you move and the timing of the rewards make a big difference in whether you can communicate your intentions to the pet. When puppies are really young, they are\n\nslower and less coordinated than adults. As a result, itʼs easier for you to get the reward to them while they are still performing the desired behavior and before they go on to a different behavior. So by starting young, youʼll be able to get away with less precise timing and skill on your part.\n\nBefore you bring the puppy home, youʼll first want to get a few vital supplies. >>\n\nCrate/pooch palace: All puppies need a safe, comfortable place to sleep, both at night and during the day, and when you take trips. Get a crate or travel kennel that\n\nwill fit your dog as an adult. If he will be in the crate for extended amounts of time", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "ff941c83-723e-4f58-ae31-54262887a1d5", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "when heʼs full grown, it should be large enough for an adult-sized version of him\n\nto stand with several inches of clearance and to turn around and stretch out.\n\nBed outside the crate: Your pup also needs a comfortable bed or rug as a resting spot in each room where he spends a significant amount of time.\n\nBaby gate: A baby gate works well now, and even in the future when you have guests, to keep the dog confined while still having visual access.\n\nCover trash cans: Just the way you baby proof a house when you have kids you should also puppy-proof the house when you get a puppy. That means eliminating\n\nthe opportunity for them to raid the trash can by placing trash cans within\n\nToys: Make sure you have a variety of toys and a place to store them, so your puppy has access to some of them, but not all at once. Puppies love to switch\n\nbetween toys rather then choosing just one and sticking with it.\n\nCommercial dog food: Use a food labeled as complete and balanced for puppies or for all stages of life, as tested by AAFCO feeding trials. My preference is one\n\nwith kibble the size of a bite-size treat. Big dogs need bigger kibble. Some people\n\nprefer to home-prepare their puppyʼs meals. If you choose this, you should use\n\nrecipes shown to be balanced by a veterinarian who is board-certified in nutrition\n\neven those written by veterinarians (who are not nutritionists) have been shown to\n\nbe inadequate and unbalanced. There are some veterinary nutritionist services that\n\nprovide custom recipes to owners (www.balanceIT.com and www.petDIETS.com).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "b9928ef6-7e0d-40d0-afb1-d75a67cecd61", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "Treats: Use your puppyʼs regular allotment of kibble for most of the training. Use small, bite-size treats for more challenging situations (Fig. 3.1G). Sometimes you\n\ncan use a different brand of dog food kibble as treats. For instance hereʼs a kibble\n\n(Fig. 3.1H) designed for ease of chewing by Bulldogs or Boxers. This kibble (Royal Canin®) serves as fun-shaped treats for dogs on other diets.\n\nFood reward bag: Youʼll want food rewards close by, so that youʼre always ready to reward good behavior as it happens, rather than being 5 to 10 seconds late. I\n\nlike bags that snap open and close, rather than ones that require drawstrings or\n\nVelcro. The Terry Ryan bait bag made by Premier Pet products is my favorite. Itʼs\n\nbest to have a treat bag rather than sticking food in your pockets, because it will be\n\nimportant to be able to get the treats quickly and sometimes that doesnʼt happen\n\nLeash and collar: Use a snap or buckle collar, or a harness that snaps in the front for easy guiding (such as the EasyWalk Harness by Premier Pet products or SENSE-\n\nation harness). I prefer a hands-free leash you tie around your waist so that you\n\ndonʼt give unintended signals when you hold the leash in your hand. My favorite is\n\nGrooming tools: Youʼll also need various grooming supplies such as brushes, nail trimmers and a toothbrush and dog toothpaste for dental care.\n\nAppointment with your veterinarian: All puppies should be examined within three days of adoption. While some people are against vaccinations and can", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "47e92434-da48-4048-98a8-ee749cd1a7ae", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "sometimes get away without vaccinating their dog if the canine population where\n\nthey live is largely vaccinated, foregoing vaccinations carries serious risks. As a\n\nrule, all puppies should be vaccinated at 6 to 8 weeks, 9 to 11 weeks and 12 to 14\n\nweeks (according to the AAHA Guidelines for pet dogs). After that, itʼs a booster at\n\none year and then every three years, but it depends on the type of vaccine given\n\nand your dogʼs risk. Itʼs best to consult your veterinarian, who will be up to date on\n\ncurrent recommendations and risk in your area. Instead of automatically giving\n\nvaccine boosters, you can have a titer taken and if immunity is high, thereʼs no\n\nWhy multiple vaccinations? Why multiple vaccinations in puppies? Our current vaccines are excellent at stimulating immunity in older puppies in just one or two\n\nshots. However, puppies who nursed on their motherʼs milk have maternal\n\nantibodies in their blood that block the immune system from responding to these\n\nvaccines. These circulating maternal antibodies protect them from bacterial and\n\nviral assault while their immune system is maturing. They also prevent the puppyʼs\n\nimmune system from becoming activated by vaccines. As the puppy ages, the\n\nmaternal antibody levels decline. By as early as 6 weeks, 25% of puppies have a\n\nmaternal antibodies have fallen enough to allow a full immune response in 90% of\n\npuppies. Veterinarians administer vaccines starting around 6 to 8 weeks of age to\n\nincrease the likelihood that as the maternal antibodies are falling, the lower levels", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "0ddc5204-9c8a-4803-bb1c-3e9a81a0c23c", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "donʼt leave the puppy exposed to disease but instead, the immune system is\n\nInstead of eating out of a food bowl your puppy will at\n\nfirst be earning all his food from you directly as rewards for good behavior. We do this because for the fastest training we need to use all motivators to our advantage. That means you use every morsel of food as a reward, rather than wasting it by giving it to him for free.\n\nINCORRECT: No food bowl: Avoid feeding your puppy out of a food bowl. Heʼll be earning all food through training or in a food toy. There are a variety of food\n\nEven if you arenʼt using your puppyʼs food to build your bond, throwing his food into a bowl is like buying T.V. dinners for your kids instead of taking time to cook something\n\nhealthy. Itʼs best to at least put the puppyʼs food in a food toy to keep your puppy engaged and solving problems. That way his brain can develop while heʼs burning off energy and keeping himself out of trouble.\n\nUse food toys if you donʼt have time to feed during training sessions. There are a variety of food-dispensing toys on the market, such as the Egg-Cersizer® by Premier Pet Products (Figure 3.2.2A) and the Bob-A-Lot® by StarMark Pet Products (Figure 3.2.2B). The puppy pushes these toys around causing kibble to fall out.\n\nOne popular food toy is a Kong®. To train the puppy to eat out of this toy, mix her dry kibble with some canned food to help hold the kibble together. Then stuff the Kong® with this mixture. (Figures 3.2.2C,D).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "00ed4d08-6bfd-49e1-bcc0-43cde9ea3390", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Hereʼs how to prepare a more challenging Kong® toy treat. To increase the challenge of getting the food out of the Kong®, make a Kong® toy food popsicle. Plug the bottom of the Kong toy with peanut butter, canned cheese, or canned food (Figure 3.2.2E). Then fill the Kong® toy with your puppyʼs regular kibble or kibble mixed with canned food (Figure 3.2.2F).\n\nNext place the Kong® toy in a container so it stands upright and fill it with water (Figure 3.2.2G). Then place it in the freezer (Figure 3.2.2H). You can fill and store a\n\nbunch at a time to use as needed. My dogs take about 30 minutes to work their\n\nway through this. Itʼs like getting a bone to chew at each meal.\n\nOne of the most trying tasks associated with having a puppy is potty training. >>\n\nSome people think potty training is as easy as just keeping the pup on a regular eating, drinking and potty- outing schedule where she is taken out every several hours. Or they think the pup will be completely housetrained in just a week or two. For some precocious pups this might be so; however, many puppies taken through such a lax, abbreviated potty protocol remain only partially housetrained, or they have potty accidents for months. These little Rovers learn that pottying outside is good, but they do not understand that inside is out of bounds. In fact, they may even come inside after an extensive play or exercise period and relieve themselves on your expensive carpet.\n\nThatʼs because potty training is not only about training\n\nwhere to go. It is also about making it clear that other places are inappropriate, until pottying only in the right locations becomes a habit.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "10b9a409-5264-4ee8-88ae-d6e756d09abd", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Does this seem odd to you? The same rules apply in our\n\nhuman world. For instance, in Paris public restrooms abound. Thereʼs easy access and they are clean. However, men prefer to randomly urinate in public on the walls. To help train men that itʼs inappropriate to urinate in public, the city has installed “pee walls” that cause the urine to splash on their feet. They have officers assigned to what they call a Bad Behavior Brigade who ticket public pee-ers. As the Wall Street Journal reports, they are saying non non to oui oui and making it difficult for men to potty in the wrong locations, in hopes that the men will form a habit of only going in the right places.\n\nIn this section Iʼll show you a foolproof potty training plan that works even for breeds known to be difficult to housetrain. All you have to do is follow it and youʼll experience success.\n\n“Potty training is more than just taking your puppy out every few hours. It requires you control the puppyʼs environment and schedule so he does not have the chance to have accidents.”\n\nThe key to potty training is taking your young puppy out frequently (on average every two hours for an eight-week-old puppy) and never giving her the opportunity to have a potty accident. That means at least eight trips a day!\n\nTo avoid giving your pup the opportunity to potty inside, when sheʼs in the house she should always either be\n\nin a puppy-safe and potty-safe playpen with a potty area that contains a preferred potty surface (such as fake grass or pee pads)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "a540f597-fb49-42f0-bfd7-8ef03cb0b366", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "attached to you by a leash so she canʼt wander off to potty in the house\n\nor under your direct supervision in an enclosed area. Direct supervision means you are looking at her at all times. The minute you turn away, sheʼll have a potty accident.\n\nStick to this plan for a month straight and sheʼll reliably develop the habit of going outside and holding it inside. Then continue keeping a close eye on her for another couple of months, especially when you take her on outings to other peopleʼs homes, before declaring her completely potty trained.\n\nThe goal of crate training is that your puppy learns to love resting in her crate.\n\nCrate: Your puppy should sleep in her crate at night and take naps in it during the day. To train her to love her crate, you can make it comfortable with a blanket and\n\nplace treats inside at random times. Then give her toys and pet her when sheʼs in it\n\nbefore you close the door. The ultimate goal of crate training is that she goes into\n\nthe crate on her own or when you give her a verbal cue, rather than needing to be\n\nshoved or coaxed in. And once sheʼs in, she remains calm, relaxed and quiet. (If\n\nyou have problems with this, download the crate training handout at\n\nCrate size: The crate should be big enough for the puppy to lie down and turn around but not big enough for a separate potty area. You can make the crate\n\nsmaller by placing a box in it and, as the puppy grows, enlarge the crate by using a\n\n“The goal of crate training is that your puppy learns to love resting in her crate.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 84, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "6e846f90-8f1c-4f38-a4a9-940fd268768d", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "Most puppies whine the first time they are crated. They\n\narenʼt used to having restricted access to their family. Itʼs important that puppies learn that being separated or confined is okay, and that they learn it NOW or you may end up with a puppy who develops full blown anxiety whenever she is left alone in a room or behind a baby gate or at home or whenever she canʼt go where she wants - even if sheʼs restricted just by leash.\n\nProvide puppies with something positive while they are in their crates. You can place treats and some of your puppyʼs meal in the crate every time you put her in,\n\nso that she associates being in the crate with positive experiences. You can even place a portion of her meal in a Kong® toy. Mix a little canned food with kibble so she has to work to get the food out of the toy. Itʼs best if the treats/toys keep her\n\nengaged long enough so that she stays clam and feels relaxed when alone.\n\nIf you are diligent about the crate training early on, the\n\nwhining should stop within a week. If you reward your puppy by letting her out when she whines, the whining could develop into serious anxiety or barrier frustration that prevents you from being able to leave your dog alone in another room or alone in the house.\n\nTips for Preventing and Dealing with Whining Puppies\n\nAvoid letting puppies out of their crates when they are barking or whining, or youʼll reward the barking/whining behavior and it will get worse. Instead, wait until they are quiet to let them out.\n\nYou can reward your puppy for quiet behavior by tossing treats into her crate when sheʼs quiet or", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 87, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "a90241e6-ded7-445d-99e6-7222a8750e2f", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "opening the door and giving her attention when sheʼs quiet.\n\nBe sure to put treats and some of your puppyʼs meal in the crate every time you put her in, so that she associates being in the crate with positive experiences (Figure 4.1.1A). You can even place a portion of her meal in a Kong® toy. Mix a little canned food with kibble so she has to work to get the food out (Figure 4.1.1B). Itʼs best if the food toy keeps her engaged long enough so she stays calm and relaxed when alone.\n\nIf you are unsure whether the amount of whining is normal, consult an animal behavior specialist immediately (www.avsabonline.org, www.dacvb.org or www.animalbehaviorsociety.org) before the whining develops into an expensive and noisy problem.\n\nSome exceptional breeders train their puppies to love sleeping in a crate alone even before they adopt them out. If possible, see if your breeder will start the crate training before you pick your puppy up to take her home.\n\nFirst thing in the morning: When you let your pup out of her crate, rush her to her potty spot before she has a chance to squat and pee. If youʼre not sure that she can\n\nhold it long enough to make it outside, carry her out.\n\nWalk briskly or run her to her potty spot: If you take her out without a leash, walk briskly or run down the hall so she doesnʼt have a chance to stop. She may\n\nhave to be on leash so she doesnʼt have a chance to stop. Even a one-second stop\n\nwill give her an opportunity to squat and potty inside. That means if you have", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "0dfcaab8-d09d-4117-ae4d-0ff65bf2d14c", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "stairs, itʼs best to carry her, since her hesitation right before the first stair is\n\nNote: Avoid picking your puppy up every time you want to take her outside to\n\ngo potty. It may hinder her ability to learn to walk to the appropriate potty spot on\n\nStand around until she potties: Once outside, keep her on a leash so she canʼt wander and get distracted, or alternatively place her in a small confined area\n\noutside. Stand silently until she potties. When she does, praise, pet her or give her\n\na treat as sheʼs finishing. Just be careful you donʼt distract her from finishing. If\n\nafter five minutes she doesnʼt potty, put her in her crate for 15 minutes and then\n\ntry again. Repeat this 20-minute procedure until she potties outside. After she has\n\npottied, you can play with her. Note: This can be tedious at first. Consider listening to music or a book on tape while you wait, and also having a timer so you donʼt get impatient for the five\n\nminutes outside. If your puppy doesnʼt potty the first time, remember to take her\n\nback out for a second try after 15 minutes in her crate.\n\nStart with every two hours for an eightweek-old puppy. Eight-week-old puppies can be crated for up to two hours during the day and through the entire\n\nnight when they are sleeping. In general, during the day, puppies can be crated the\n\nsame number of hours as their age in months. For example, a three-month-old\n\npuppy can be crated three hours at a time, if she hasnʼt had a large drink of water\n\nTake her out after a nap: In addition to the two-hour rule, take the puppy out whenever she wakes up from sleeping or first comes out of her crate or playpen.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 90, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "0cc3645f-ec79-45c3-a882-037068907b53", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "Take her out to potty after a play session: If she doesnʼt go potty, you can put her in her crate for 15 to 30 minutes and then take her out again.\n\nTake her out when her body language says sheʼs searching for a spot to pee: Signs that they are about to potty may be subtle. Typically they start sniffing the\n\nAfter a drink: Take her out to potty 10 to 20 minutes after sheʼs had a drink of water. Remove her water about an hour before you take her out for her last potty\n\ntrip of the day, so she can go through the night without pottying. She should be\n\nable to make it through the night for seven to eight hours.\n\nLearn from your mistakes: Puppies have to potty seemingly a million times a day. Learn to predict when your puppy will need to go, and expect to have accidents.\n\nEach time she has an accident, you should learn from the experience and avoid\n\nmaking the same mistake again. Potty training is about establishing a habit of\n\ngoing to a potty spot whenever the dog has to go potty and never giving her the\n\nWhen you can reliably predict when she is about to potty, you can add a cue word. Say “go potty” in a clear, encouraging voice just once, right before you think she will squat. If you can reliably say it within a couple of seconds before she has to squat, she will come to learn that “go potty” means she should do #1 or #2. Avoid saying the cue over and over, or it will just become noise to her.\n\nUntil sheʼs reliable, the puppy must be directly supervised", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "9894e57b-dc0f-4b8f-bdae-ea475f9bb09e", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "or attached to you with a hands-free leash or near you on leash or resting in a playpen. Alternatively, she can be outside in a potty-safe and puppy-safe area. This may help her learn to potty when you are not outside to watch her. But avoid leaving her outside unsupervised for hours at a time. Also realize that young puppies are less able to withstand warm and cold temperatures.\n\nLucy is attached to me by a leash: This way sheʼs always nearby, even when Iʼm moving from place to place. Sheʼs less likely to have a potty accident if sheʼs right\n\nnext to me because sheʼs always in my sight and I can rush her outside. Sheʼs also\n\nless likely to get into trouble—chew inappropriate objects, climb on furniture,\n\nbother the other dog—because sheʼs under my direct control and supervision.\n\nHere sheʼs attached by leash to furniture near me: From this position I can easily reward her for sitting or lying down quietly, and see that sheʼs not wandering away\n\nMake sure your pup has plenty of toys to keep her entertained: Wherever sheʼs stationed, she should have lots of toys to chew on. If she grabs inappropriate\n\nitems, such as your shoes or paper, remove them from her mouth and out of her\n\nrange and place one of her puppy-approved items in her mouth. Similar to a two-\n\nyear-old child, youʼll have to repeat this toy trade many times for her to get the\n\nMake sure she has things to chew on: Here Lucyʼs chewing on a puppy-safe chew toy—a bully stick. An assortment of toys is essential for a developing puppy", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 96, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "85f59b82-5ecb-403a-88e7-61cc511718f7", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "mind. When Lucy gets down to a final piece thatʼs small enough to swallow whole\n\nbut large enough to get stuck in her esophagus, stomach or intestines, Iʼll take the\n\nPlaypen: An alternative to crating when youʼre gone for longer periods of time is a puppy-safe playpen. It has her rug, water, toys and a potty spot covered with pee\n\npads. Hopefully, sheʼll choose to potty on the pads if she canʼt wait to go outside.\n\nThe goal with a playpen is that the puppy develops a substrate preference; sheʼll\n\nprefer to keep her bed clean and potty on the surface that is different from her\n\nLucyʼs already used to pottying on artificial grass in the yard, so an indoor\n\ngrass potty system might be a good substrate to use in her playpen.\n\nWhat happens without eagle-eye supervision? Hereʼs what happened when I let Lucy wander off leash for 20 seconds. Before this accident, sheʼd had no accidents\n\nfor the first three days. On the fourth day I let her wander around off leash in a\n\nroom with me three times. She had accidents two of those times, even though she\n\nhad pottied outside five minutes earlier and was only out of my gaze for about 30\n\nseconds. You canʼt keep your eye on a puppy every instant, unless the puppy is\n\nattached to you. All other times the puppy should be in her crate, in a playpen,\n\ntethered near you, or in a location where itʼs okay to go potty.\n\nOutside in a potty-safe, puppy-safe yard: This will give her practice being independent and may help get her used to pottying in your absence outside. Make", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 98, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "b9c07837-30e3-476d-bfec-2de50654d027", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "sure there are plenty of appropriate toys in the yard. Avoid leaving her\n\nfirst week, Lucy spent 15 to 20 minutes at a time on her own outside in a fencedin\n\nIf you want, you can spy on your puppy and if you see her potty outside, you\n\ncan reward her remotely with a Treat&Train or MannersMinder remote- controlled kibble and treat dispenser. First train her that treats come out of the machine. You control the release of treats by pressing the dispense button on a\n\nremote control (Fig 4.3 H). Then, put the machine outside with her and watch her\n\nfrom inside. When you see her potty outside, dispense treats as a reward. Hereʼs an\n\nexample with an older dog. (Fig 4.3I and Fig 4.3J) www.MannersMinder.net\n\nInterrupt your puppy: Try to interrupt her by making a sharp, guttural “ah”. Donʼt yell or punish her. This can just teach her to avoid pottying in front of you or to be\n\nafraid of you. Donʼt even use “ah” if it scares her. Instead, whisk your puppy up.\n\nGet her outside: Rush outside as quickly as possible!\n\nReward good behavior: Set her down in an appropriate potty spot and reward her with something she likes when she potties. After she has pottied you can play with\n\nher. Then vow to watch her more carefully next time.\n\nClean up: Clean the accident by sopping it up with a rag or a paper towel. Then soak the carpet or wipe the floor with an enzymatic cleaner so the area does not smell like pee or poop to your puppy. Examples of two good products are Petastic® and Anti-Icky Poo® (by MisterMaxTM).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 100, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "ff1852b0-ab53-4228-9878-2c14af1742c1", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies Who Dislike Going Outside to Potty in Cold Weather.\n\nSome dogs dislike going outside in cold or wet weather,\n\nwhich can make potty training a challenge. This is where it really would have been useful if the breeder or early caretaker had provided the puppies with short positive exposures in cold or wet weather and wet grass or muddy surfaces before you took your puppy home. You can work on training your puppy to be more tolerant of the harsher environments by taking her out into situations that she can still tolerate and play in these environments. Alternatively, you can train her to potty inside on an indoor potty system.\n\nUsing an indoor potty system: One way to train puppies to use an indoor potty system such as this fake grass system is to leave them in an exercise pen in which\n\none portion contains the bed and the other portion contains the potty system.\n\nMake sure that thereʼs a clear difference between the soft resting surface of the\n\nbed and the potty surface. Puppies will tend to potty on the surface that is different\n\nPotty training is about making it easy for the dog to potty outside and never providing an opportunity for her to go inside. If you can do this for a month, your puppy will have an established habit.\n\nRemember, the puppy doesnʼt understand that pottying in the house is wrong, any more than an infant understands that pooping in their diapers is gross. So donʼt scold the pup for your mistake. (You should have been watching.) Doing so is likely to teach the pup only to avoid pottying in your presence, and instead to have potty accidents behind your back.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 103, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "50a9a66f-355a-4b19-a370-5959471bc0c5", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Even though puppies will try to keep their sleeping area and den area clean, if they are confined too long or have had too much water before being placed in their crate, they will still have accidents in the crate.\n\nIf your puppy has an accident, just calmly clean it up and then figure out where you went wrong. Was she unsupervised? Did you miss her cues? Was she wandering freely? Then try to avoid making the same mistake again.\n\naccidents. In both cases, they occurred when I got sloppy with the schedule and wasnʼt supervising her well.\n\nWhen I first saw Lucy on a visit to her breeder, I was immediately happy with what I saw. The puppies were all outgoing and energetic and interested in interacting with and following me. At seven weeks of age, they were also extremely mature, active and coordinated compared to the average litter of puppies. They could sprint after their mom around the two- acre field in the hopes of a chance to nurse. And after doing a lap or two, they played constantly for the next half hour. Sometimes they played too roughly—enough to get into little spats. It was a good indicator that it was almost time for them to be separated into homes, rather than practicing too much overly rough behavior.\n\nAt seven weeks Lucy and her littermates were athletic, energetic and playing so roughly that they repeatedly got into little spats. This was a good indicator that it\n\nwas almost time for them to be separated into homes where individuals could be\n\nprovided with supervised interactions with friendly, well-mannered, adult dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 104, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "b761f513-c6c4-46c8-b7cd-6f6ee450c065", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "That way they could learn to play in a more controlled manner.\n\nWhen I got Lucy home, she immediately proved herself\n\nadorable. Play and attention were her goals, but the problem was that she focused most of her energy on climbing and jumping and nipping on arms. Cute at this age, but my first thought was, “Uh oh! Imagine her in a couple of weeks and a\n\nlittle larger, knocking my senior citizen parents down or scratching open my momʼs diabetic skin.” I saw broken hips and nip-induced infections in my parentsʼ future. I needed to get her trained to sit politely to get what she wanted, and to play with appropriate toys rather than jumping and nipping. Luckily, I had just the plan for accelerated training: my version of the Learn to Earn program (see a video overview at www.drsophiayin.com on the Videos page).\n\nThe Learn to Earn program is a fun path to leadership for\n\nyou and a polite, happy pet. With this program, your puppy will know more by the end of one week than most of your friendsʼ adult dogs learn their entire lives. And youʼll have quickly formed the solid foundation for a strong partnership.\n\nWeʼve all heard that to be a good dog owner you have to be a leader. I donʼt disagree, but itʼs important to know that you have a choice about how you want to lead. Some people lead through force and coercion, by being the dictatorial boss. Both animal behavior scientists and schools of marketing and leadership recommend leading more like Mahatma Gandhi, by providing rewards and motivators that followers want to earn. Itʼs a more effective way to lead, as well as being kinder.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "737be441-7db0-4c72-956f-5f0e808e0434", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "With animals, thereʼs an additional component of physical communication (body language), as well. So with dogs, I think of leadership not like being the boss, but more like leading a\n\npartner in a dance. In a dance, the lead (usually the man) guides the follow (usually the woman) to perform a sequence of steps. The only way the follow knows whatʼs coming next is that a split second before a move, the lead leads her. He does so not by shouting out words, but by guiding her with subtle body movements. If at any point he daydreams and forgets what heʼs going to do, the follow immediately knows and may be confused for an instant. If he is consistent in how he signals and his signals are clear, so that she understands, then she will trust his ability to lead her and they will form a stronger relationship. On the other hand, if he frequently forgets to lead or his signals are muddled, then the follow will feel the need to take the lead herself. Then itʼs just two people dancing near each other but not actually together (See video of leading like a leader in a dance, www.drsophiayin.com).\n\nThe same principle applies to training puppies and adult\n\ndogs. They have to understand what we want, and the only way that they can is if we provide clear cues and signals. Anyone can do this if we:\n\nSet clear house rules so that we can be consistent about what is expected instead of constantly changing them and confusing our pet. In this program, the rules are that the puppy must say please by automatically sitting for everything she wants.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 109, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "8a4bcf67-aa1f-44bb-8c7c-18b9c5f46c13", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Communicate the rules by rewarding correct behavior as the puppy does it and removing rewards for unwanted behaviors.\n\nStick to the plan until the new behavior patterns become habit, rather than just a trick performed for food.\n\nThe trick about forming habits in your house is that while\n\nyou can train each of the behaviors in this book in just 5 to 10 minutes, to make the behaviors a habit you have be aware that youʼre training your dog during every single interaction you have with her—whether you know it or not. If youʼre not aware of what you are doing, you may be training undesirable behaviors more often than desirable ones. Thatʼs why the Learn to Earn program is so important. Our goal is to make good behavior a consistent habit, rather than a trick the puppy performs only when you bring out a treat or a behavior she performs only when you yell or threaten with enough force.\n\nThis structured program is what makes the training go so\n\nfast. By rewarding polite behaviors all the time and never rewarding the undesirable ones, puppy quickly learns to be polite all the time.\n\nIn this program weʼll use everything your puppy wants to our advantage as rewards for training purposes. Sheʼll Learn to Earn everything she wants by politely sitting and asking for it. And sheʼll learn that undesirable behaviors such as\n\njumping on you result in absolutely no rewards—no kibble, no treats, toys, play,\n\nSheʼll earn every single kibble. For the fastest training, that means no food in a food bowl. Instead, your pup is going to earn every bit of kibble during training", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "c9e7d186-2e11-47c1-8f3b-b0ef6f19c415", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "and for learning tricks. Dumping food in a bowl is for people who are too lazy to\n\nspend quality time training and interacting with their pet. Itʼs analogous to\n\nplopping a kid in front of the TV instead of reading a book to them.\n\nBesides getting your puppy trained really quickly, this\n\nprogram has many other benefits. By saying please for everything she wants, your puppy will learn:\n\nEmotional self control: That she gets things by being calm and polite, not by whining and working herself into an anxious or overly excited state.\n\nImpulse control: That she should sit politely and ask you, rather than just taking things for herself.\n\nThat you are fun and worth listening to: Instead of you yelling and commanding to deaf ears, youʼll be able to speak softly because your pup will be tuned in to your voice.\n\nTo look to you for guidance: Especially when she doesnʼt already know what to do.\n\nBest of all, youʼll open a clear line of communication and\n\n5.1.3 How many weeks does the puppy have to be tethered?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 112, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "841b1f44-3746-47fb-81ec-e8e88fe17105", "word_count": 180, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 234 } }, { "page_content": "In the beginning, we start puppies on a leash so they donʼt have a chance to get rewards for unwanted behaviors. Your puppy should remain tethered to you with a hands free leash such as the Buddy System, until sheʼs completely potty trained in the house (that takes a minimum of one month). Once your dog is potty trained, and when she automatically and quickly sits for everything she wants, have her wear her leash but donʼt attach it to you. Rather, let her drag the leash throughout the house. She should drag a leash around the house until she has a 100% solid come when called, the first time you call, even when there are distractions in the house. Have her wear the leash in the house only when you are home, because it is possible for dogs to get their leashes caught in the furniture and get stuck. Having the dog wear a harness\n\nand attaching the leash to the harness instead of the neck collar for this part of the training is a good option.\n\nOnce you have the 100% solid come, the puppy doesnʼt need to wear a leash in the house but she still has to sit for everything she wants. Puppies will stay on leash in the house due to the potty training program much longer than they will need to be leashed for the Learn to Earn program.\n\nThe necessity and benefits of tethering: Your puppy should be tethered to you on leash at all times when she isnʼt in her crate or pen or tethered to an object near\n\nyou. This works well for potty training, but is also important for teaching her to\n\nstick with you and that she canʼt blow you off. Some pups will wander away when", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 113, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "480beae0-ee29-4870-9f06-eb8f80e530fa", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "they canʼt get what they want, and as a result, they reward themselves with\n\nsomething else. Tethering enables you to supervise her directly and to make sure\n\nthat she only has the opportunity to chew her toys rather than inappropriate\n\nobjects. I use a hands free leash called the Buddy System (www.Buddysys.com)\n\nbecause itʼs way more convenient than using a traditional leash.\n\n5.1.4 How long does the whole Learn to Earn program take?\n\nPuppies can get to off-leash privileges as soon as they are\n\npotty trained, but should continue to sit for everything they want until itʼs a habit and until you have the perfect indoor- outdoor pup. When you have a perfectly behaved puppy who sits and asks you for everything she wants, you can give her privileges for free. That is, youʼll still want her to sit for all petting, treats, toy tosses and to go out the door for now. But once sheʼs a perfect canine good citizen who greets politely, always comes when called and plays nicely with her toys and not your shoes, you can allow her to jump on you when you invite her to do so with an “up” cue and she can stand and wait at the door instead of having to sit to go out.\n\nfurniture if you want, if she asks politely by sitting. Save that privilege until she learns that being on the floor and in her bed and crate are good. Also wait until sheʼs completely potty trained and will immediately get off the furniture when asked. Generally, wait until sheʼs over six months of age to grant this privilege—if you are planning to grant it at all. And remember, if she develops a habit of jumping on furniture without asking, sheʼs not likely to be welcome in other peopleʼs homes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 114, "chunk_index": 50, "id": "b8483aa7-7416-4df0-a0c8-a40794dcbee1", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Good behavior starts by teaching your puppy to automatically say please by sitting. This is the foundation exercise for the Learn to Earn program. By using her entire meal for training, Lucy will get at least 100 rewards for good behavior per day. That means that sheʼll learn this and other exercises at super-speed.\n\nSTEP 1 | Remove your attention when she jumps: Start with a bit of her kibble in your hand. Hold your hand at your belly button. When the puppy jumps on you,\n\nstand up straight and be silent so itʼs clear to her that youʼre ignoring her (that is,\n\nyouʼve removed the reward for jumping, which is your attention) (Figure 5.2.1A).\n\nOnce she realizes youʼre not going to reward her for rude jumping behavior she\n\nSTEP 2 | When she sits, give her a treat: Be sure your movements are crystal clear. When you hold the treat against your belly button, to her that should signal\n\nno treat yet. When she sits, immediately put the kibble in her mouth. Follow with several more treats while she remains seated, to reward her for continued sitting. Then quickly move several steps away in a way that makes her\n\nwant to hurry after you, and repeat. Perform these sits repeatedly. When the puppy\n\ncan do these repeat sits 5 to 10 times in a row, go on to the next exercise.\n\nINCORRECT: Avoid bending over your puppy when sheʼs just learning: Bending over her is a cue for her to jump to get to you.\n\nINCORRECT: Avoid holding the treat too high or youʼll lure her to jump and even to grab treats roughly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 116, "chunk_index": 51, "id": "c3d90821-f92e-4fc9-8055-22d975354650", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "The right way to deliver treats: To give the treat (kibble), bend your legs while keeping your upper body as straight as possible since leaning may lure her to\n\njump. It should feel as if youʼre carrying a baby and donʼt want to bend over. Then\n\njust straighten your treat delivery arm so that the treat is delivered right up to her\n\nmouth—actually, you should aim to push the treat into her mouth, and hold it\n\nthere for an instant so youʼre sure the hand-off is good.\n\nTry to get the treat to your puppy within a second of her good behavior. Dogs and other animals learn best when they get the reward while theyʼre performing the correct behavior. That means you must get the reward to them within a split second and before they start performing another behavior.\n\nTo get the treats to her fast, think of straightening your arm fast, as if youʼre having an involuntary arm spasm. Or you can think of it as trying to press a game show buzzer when you know the answer and need to ring in\n\nfaster than your opponent. The speed will make the game more fun for your puppy and sheʼll want to pay more attention.\n\nDeliver the treats right to her mouth. Think of even putting a treat right in her mouth and holding it there for second so that youʼre sure she has it. That way you will avoid accidentally holding the treat too far away and luring her to stand or jump to get it. It will also ensure she doesnʼt drop the treat. Dropping the treat will train her to look down instead of at you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 52, "id": "faa4647f-9bab-4dfb-a637-56e2a0708f38", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "Training isnʼt about just giving food rewards, itʼs about making the exercises seem like play. That means we have to add speed, quick changes of directions, and exercises in rapid succession to keep the pupʼs attention on us. Once dogs figure out that weʼre really fun, we donʼt have to work so hard to keep their attention. In general, keep this in mind: Dogs like MTV, not Masterpiece Theater. If they get bored with the training, itʼs not necessarily because they have a short attention span, itʼs often because the show (and the human in charge) is boring and there are too many long “commercial breaks.” After all, puppies can play with each other for hours on end, because other puppies are fun.\n\nIn this section weʼll turn sit into a fun game of red light–\n\ngreen light or suddenly settle, by adding speed and then suddenly stopping.\n\n“Dogs like MTV, not Masterpiece Theater. If they get bored with the training, itʼs not necessarily because they have a short attention span, itʼs often because the show (and the human in charge) is boring and there are too many long “commercial breaks.””\n\nSTEP 1 | Suddenly settle, or follow me and sit: Start with puppy in a sit.\n\nSTEP 2 | Suddenly settle, or follow me and sit: Run several steps away, so she chases you. Do not give her any commands; just run so she wants to chase you.\n\nSTEP 3 | Suddenly settle, or follow me and sit: Stop. Stand still like a tree if the puppy jumps. And then reward her when she sits (Figure 5.2.2C, D). This game is\n\nthe precursor to a fantastic come when called. Do not work on come when called", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 120, "chunk_index": 53, "id": "13fc5b7b-7bc4-48af-ad9d-136bcd41628d", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "When your puppy consistently runs after you and then immediately sits when\n\nshe catches up, you can add her name and a cue to the game if you want. Say her\n\nname right before you run, so that “name, come” predicts that something really fun\n\nwill happen and she should immediately look at you and follow. Only use her name\n\nwhen you know she will respond by looking at and approaching you. If you ever\n\nuse her name and she ignores you, sheʼs learning that her name is not important.\n\nSo for now and until her response is a habit, her name must be followed by\n\nsomething fun, such as you running, followed by a treat.\n\nYou can prevent jumping in a dog who really loves to jump by using a “flash lure.” That is, when you stop, quickly whip your treat hand down to her nose level before she has caught up, so she stops. When she stops to sniff the treat, raise your treat hand without giving her the treat such that she understands she canʼt have it yet and then offers a sit. Then\n\ngive her the treat before she has a chance to jump. Give her several additional treats for remaining seated. So your hand + treat are acting like a stop sign to get her attention and get her to stop, but she does not get to eat the treat until she sits (which she will do if you then hold the treat away from her).\n\nWhen humans are in a crouching position, dogs and puppies are more likely to jump on them. Remove all rewards for jumping and reward sit instead.\n\nWhen youʼre down at her level, your puppyʼs more likely to jump on you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 122, "chunk_index": 54, "id": "01555cfb-4ca8-4a71-9291-431596bac01b", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "STEP 1 | Remove your attention or remove the puppyʼs ability to prop herself on you: As Lucy starts to jump, I just move my knee (or whatever body part sheʼs planning to jump on) so that she has nothing on which to balance her front legs.\n\nAlternatively, I could remove my attention by standing up. The goal is that itʼs\n\nabsolutely clear to her that jumping doesnʼt work and itʼs clear immediately as she\n\nstarts to jump, not one or two seconds later. In general avoid pushing her to get\n\nher off because when people do this they tend to do it in a way that the puppy\n\nSTEP 2 | Remain stationary until she sits. Here Lucy sits immediately once she is unsuccessful at propping her front feet on me.\n\nSTEP 3 | Reward the puppy once she sits. Reward her with one treat for sitting and additional treats for remaining seated.\n\nINCORRECT: Avoid accidentally rewarding or giving your puppy attention for jumping, or youʼll confuse her. Sheʼll think youʼre not a good leader because you canʼt make up your mind about what you want, and she will have no concept of\n\nyour personal space. When sheʼs older and automatically greets everyone politely\n\nby sitting, you can train her to place her paws on your lap if you want, but it has to\n\nSTEP 1 | Prepare as the puppy is running to you: Assume that every time she approaches you, especially in an excited state, sheʼll jump. So be mentally prepared\n\nSTEP 2 | Present the flash lure: Before she reaches you and well before she has a chance to jump, suddenly shove your treat hand out into her face like a stop sign", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 124, "chunk_index": 55, "id": "1b51947f-778f-4bbe-be8b-af5f64f13c2b", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "to block her from jumping and to get her attention.\n\nSTEP 3 | Reward her for stopping and then for sitting: Once sheʼs stopped, you can give her that treat and then reward with a second treat for sitting. Or you can\n\njust withhold the first treat until she sits. The goal is to practice this so much\n\nwithin several days that she automatically sits without needing the flash lure.\n\n5.2.4 Now reward her for sitting throughout the day.\n\nHave random play/training sessions throughout the day where you practice the exercises already shown. Then, throughout the rest of the day, work on the additional Learn to Earn exercises.\n\nThroughout much of the day, your puppy will be attached by leash to you. As you walk around the house, sheʼll come with you. Randomly stop and reward her before she starts to pull, and when youʼre standing around doing dishes or checking your laundry, be prepared to reward her frequently for sitting.\n\nWhen you walk around the house with your puppy tethered to you, ideally she should sit whenever you stop for a while. So be on the lookout and when she does\n\nsit, hurry up and reward her. I can reward her with treats or petting here.\n\nHere Lucyʼs tethered near me as I work, and I randomly reward her for sitting or lying down quietly. Better to reward her for good behavior so she doesnʼt have a\n\nchance to perform naughty behavior. Iʼm rewarding her with petting here instead of\n\ntreats. I can tell she likes it because sheʼs rubbing against me.\n\nexercises that sitting is really fun (all of these exercises so far took Lucy only 10 minutes to learn), you can now require her to automatically sit for everything she wants throughout the day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 126, "chunk_index": 56, "id": "06921568-0bd9-4ed1-9da6-15f4a7e3b468", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "This is the most difficult exercise for people, because humans always pet dogs without thinking. As a result, people spend more time rewarding naughty jumping behavior (or pre-behaviors) than rewarding quiet sit behavior. If you want a dog who greets everyone by sitting politely instead of jumping, itʼs important to remove attention when she performs any type of attention-seeking behavior, such as pawing you, barking at you or rubbing against you, as well as actually jumping on you.\n\nSay please to be petted: Here Lucy automatically sits because I donʼt pet her until she offers the sit. As soon as she sits, I pet her. If your pup starts to jump, remove\n\nyour petting hand and even get up. Do whatever makes it clear to her that you are\n\nremoving the reward for petting when she jumps. Avoid pushing her or otherwise\n\ninteracting with her because attention is a reward. Then, when she sits, reward her\n\nwith one treat for sitting and additional treats for remaining seated.\n\nSay please to be petted: For pups who nibble on your hands or get excited when you start to pet, start by petting only when youʼre giving treats. That is, give kibble\n\nand pet simultaneously, and then stop doing both at the same time. Then repeat.\n\nWhen sheʼs sitting more calmly, give treats while petting but wait more and more\n\nSit to go out the door: Rather than barreling out ahead of you, your pup must remain seated even if the door opens. When I want her to go through, Iʼll say “okay”\n\nor “letʼs go” and then walk through to guide her through.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 130, "chunk_index": 57, "id": "1eaf2a69-e633-41a0-aac6-229f5fd7e521", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Sit to come back into the house: After a short walk outside, I wait by the front door until Lucy sits and looks at me (Figure 5.3.2B). I give her one treat for sitting\n\nand a few more for remaining seated (Figure 5.3.2C). Once she has a stable sit and\n\nwatches me, I open the door and we walk in. By the end of the week, I donʼt even\n\nneed to reward with treats. I can reward with petting or praise because Lucy loves\n\nNote: If she has to really go potty, better to just run outside so she doesnʼt have an accident.\n\nWhen giving multiple or sequential treats for sitting make sure you retract your hand and arm and stand up straight between treats rather than keeping your hand\n\nnear the face the entire time. If you do the latter it will resemble one long treat rather than multiple treats for continued good behavior.\n\nWhen I left Lucy in the yard on her own for the first time,\n\nshe pawed and jumped and whined at the glass door and I thought, “Uh-oh. Sheʼll develop frustration and anxiety when separated by a barrier or wonʼt be able to be left alone if my parents arenʼt careful.” But with all of the other Learn to Earn exercises for impulse control, by day three she was no longer jumping at the door. Instead, she sat politely to be let back in.\n\nItʼs essential dogs learn itʼs okay to be left alone in the\n\nyard, in a room or in a carrier or crate. You may have guests or need to separate your pets from other animals or kids. If the pup doesnʼt learn that itʼs okay to be alone, she may develop ever-increasing anxiety.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 132, "chunk_index": 58, "id": "6fbb2b9b-d707-42c9-8da9-387f1bb815d4", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "Never reward jumping or barking to be let in. In fact, if the puppy jumps on the door to come in and youʼre worried about door damage, place an exercise pen or\n\nother barrier in front of it so that she doesnʼt have the opportunity to jump on the\n\ndoor, until you can spend several sessions training her that jumping doesnʼt work.\n\nOtherwise, youʼll end up with a 40-pound barking dog who hurls herself against\n\nbarriers that separate her from being where she wants to be.\n\nOnce she sits you can let her in. If she has a jumping habit, practice rewarding her many times with treats for sitting outside and then let her in. For this particular\n\nbehavior, youʼll have to set up the situation so that you can practice many, many\n\ntimes over the course of a few days. If you only practice this several times a day, it\n\nLucy already likes to run after a toy and bring it back. Fetch is an important game to cultivate in any pup who is active. The short sprints are a more efficient way to exercise your dog than taking her on a walk, even at a brisk pace. For instance, my Jack Russell Terrier can easily run 10 miles with me and look like he hasnʼt even exercised yet. But after playing fetch he needs to take breaks.\n\nYou can turn a game of “toss the toy” into fetch by regularly giving the puppy treats when she brings the toy back, or by putting her on leash and practicing a come when called after sheʼs grabbed the toy.\n\nSTEP 1 | Wait for you puppy to sit before tossing the toy: Show her the toy but hold it far enough out of her reach that she does not try to jump. If she does try to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 134, "chunk_index": 59, "id": "82ec2ad2-7c28-435d-8498-fc9b226c3e7e", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "jump, pull it away further so itʼs clear that her jumping removed the toy.\n\nSTEP 2 | Toss the toy: When she sits, to make it clear to her that sitting is what earns the toy, toss it for her.\n\nSTEP 3 | Reward your puppy when she brings it back by playing tug. The purpose of playing tug is to keep her interested in the toy. Alternatively you can go\n\nSTEP 4 | Stop tugging the toy: To get her to release the toy stop tugging. Often this will get her to relax and let it go, because sheʼs already worked on the say\n\nplease by sitting exercise and is in a habit of sitting when attention and play stop,\n\nshe is likely to relax and let go within a couple of seconds after you stop tugging\n\nSTEP 5 | Trade for a high value treat: If step 4 alone doesnʼt work, then show your puppy a treat and even put it right in her mouth. Make sure the treat is large\n\nenough and of high enough value for this situation so that she releases quickly.\n\nSTEP 6 | Hold the toy out of range: Once she releases quickly hold the toy out of her range so she doesnʼt grab it right back. Then you can give her a few additional\n\ntreats and then repeat the entire game. When she reliably starts releasing the toy\n\nimmediately with either of these two methods, start saying the word “out” right\n\nbefore you get her to release the toy. “Out” will come to mean “open your mouth\n\n5.3.5 Say please to get your attention when tethered away from you.\n\nThis is great for teaching calm behavior to puppies prone\n\nto separation anxiety or dogs who jump, especially to greet you. So if you have a dog who barks for your attention when sheʼs tethered or away from you, or you want to prevent this undesirable habit from developing, do this exercise.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 135, "chunk_index": 60, "id": "0ddf8813-b009-423a-9641-a6b9f98a8dee", "word_count": 329, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 427 } }, { "page_content": "Tethering a puppy away from you suddenly makes you a valued resource—one the dog no longer can get to at will. With a pup who whines when she canʼt get to\n\nyou at will, tether her away from you and wait until she sits (Figure 5.3.5A,B). Then\n\napproach and reward her (Figure 5.3.5C). Iʼm rewarding this dog with petting\n\nbecause he likes being petted. The goal is for the dog to learn that calm, focused\n\nbehavior is what earns the reward, not whiney, barking, anxious behavior.\n\nI wanted to provide Lucy with many positive experiences with many new people, but at the same time she had to learn to sit to greet them rather than jumping on them. Even puppies can cause harm by jumping. Their sharp nails can scratch, especially people with thin or delicate skin. Since you canʼt rely on other people to greet your puppy correctly (so she doesnʼt get rewarded for jumping), youʼll have to take control.\n\nSTEP 1 | Prepare your puppy for the greeting: When someone wants to greet your puppy, tell the person, “Wait, let me get her to sit first” (Figure 5.3.6A). You\n\nmay need to make the “halt” signal with your hand to keep the approaching person\n\naway. Then get your puppyʼs attention and have her sit (Figure 5.3.6B). Youʼll need\n\nto get down to her level before you allow the guest to squat down and pet her\n\nYou may need to make a halt signal with your hand to keep a potential\n\ngreeter from approaching until youʼve prepared your puppy for the\n\nSTEP 2 | Start feeding treats: Start feeding treats before the greeter reaches out to pet your puppy. Keep your hands at the puppyʼs face so that she has a steady", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 139, "chunk_index": 61, "id": "4eb7d08b-47ad-4ee7-a91d-389c9721146f", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "stream of treats with no time between treats. To do this, you can use two hands so\n\nyou can hold more treats. Let the person pet her while you feed the treats.\n\nSTEP 3 | Then let the greeter start petting: Once youʼre sure your puppy is focused on the treats and not the person, tell the person she can pet her. Keep a\n\nSTEP 4 | Slow the treat rate down: Then slow the treat rate down by pulling your treat holding hands far enough away so they are out of reach and the puppy does\n\nSTEP 5 | Reward your puppy before she gets up. Hurry and give another treat before she starts wiggling or gets up. Gradually increase the interval between\n\ntreats as long as she remains calm. When the calm greeting becomes a habit you\n\nwill no longer need treats. Petting is the reward.\n\nINCORRECT: This is what happens without a steady stream of treats: If your dog is wiggly and you are not giving a steady stream of treats, as soon as you remove your treat hand from her face to get another treat, sheʼll turn and jump on the person whoʼs petting her (Figure 5.3.6I)!\n\nTIP 1: It helps to hold your dogʼs collar or leash: To help keep her from jumping, you can hold your dogʼs collar loosely or hold the leash short while giving treats\n\nTIP 2: Make sure youʼre holding treats up to the dogʼs face in a position that keeps her in a sit rather than in a position that lures her to reach forward and then\n\nget up. Placement of the treat determines where her head will be.\n\nLeave-it is great for teaching your puppy that unwanted, impulsive behaviors donʼt work. Only saying please by sitting will get her what she wants.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 141, "chunk_index": 62, "id": "4dd08dd5-eb01-49c4-be65-41029c3e2bae", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "5.4.1 Version 1: Waiting politely to take treats from your hand.\n\nIn a new situation, your pup learns that pushy, impulsive grabbing doesnʼt work and she should try something else.\n\nShe learns to take treats nicely instead of grabbing like a land-shark.\n\nShe learns a cue such as leave-it means “take your smelly nose away from my hand and look at me for direction about how to get what you want.” Note that this is in contrast to the way many people use leave-it to mean, you never get that. Some dogs that get the “you never get the taboo item” message will want that taboo item even more.\n\n“The message the pup should learn is that if she takes her nose away from the desired object (such as your hand with the treat) and sits and looks at you for direction, she may get the item she wanted. She surely will not get the treat otherwise.”\n\nSTEP 1 | Hold your treat hand up to her face: Start with your dog sitting or lying down so that she wonʼt be moving all over the place. Then hold your treat-filled\n\nfist up to her face. Sheʼll most likely sniff and lick and even gnaw at your hand. Just\n\nSTEP 2 | Watch for her to move her nose away from your hand: She will eventually move her nose away from your hand. Some dogs even pause for an\n\ninstant and look at the hand as if trying to solve the puzzle. Watch carefully for this\n\nSTEP 3 | Reward her with the treat: Once sheʼs removed her nose from you hand, open your hand and give her the treat.\n\nFor this exercise to work so that she doesnʼt just lose interest all together, make sure sheʼs hungry and you", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 144, "chunk_index": 63, "id": "7bf1d917-dde0-4b84-a170-d902acfb09cf", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "have good treats. Alternatively, if your dog is a chow hound you can start with a lower value treat, as long as when she pulls her head away, she doesnʼt lose interest and start doing something completely different.\n\nSTEP 1 | Leave-it version 1: Start with your food-filled hand near you puppyʼs mouth: Lucy immediately goes for the treats.\n\nSTEP 2 | Leave-it version 1: Watch for her to move her nose away. Because sheʼs still interested in the food, when she pulls her head away in puzzlement,\n\nSTEP 3 | Leave-it version 1: Reward her: I immediately open my hand and let her have the treat.\n\nWhen you feel pretty comfortable with this exercise, you\n\ncan start using a release word such as “okay” or “free” or “done” in a unique tone of voice right before you open your hand to give a treat. This release word will mean “go ahead and do what you want; the exercise is done.” Most dogs will want to eat the treat in your open hand.\n\nYou can also start waiting for your puppy to hold her head\n\naway from your hand for longer periods. Itʼs best if you can work up to two to five seconds. Or just go on to the next step of getting good eye contact.\n\nThe next step is to work on getting and rewarding eye contact. The goal here is to get your puppy to look away from your hand and up at you and wait patiently for your direction.\n\nSTEP 4 | Leave-it version 1: Place your treat hand near your puppyʼs face: Hold one hand with a treat at your forehead and hold the decoy hand (a treat in your fist)\n\nSTEP 5 | Leave-it version 1: Wait for her to remove her nose from you hand. Since sheʼs already had some practice with this exercise, sheʼll probably remove", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 64, "id": "61a2773f-a758-4db6-9e01-4336a57fd65e", "word_count": 314, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 408 } }, { "page_content": "STEP 6 | Leave-it version 1: Reward her when she removes her nose from your hand: When she pulls her nose away from your hand, immediately, say “yes” give the treat from your forehead within a split second. The “yes” will come to indicate\n\nto her that sheʼs done something right and a treat is on its way. Because the treat\n\nis coming from above, generally after practicing 5 to 20 times in a row your puppy\n\nwill start looking up in that direction automatically.\n\nIf you have kids and your puppy likes to grab harshly or gets up as the kids deliver the treat, use the version of leave-it regularly.\n\nTrain everyone to always deliver treats with a closed fist and to only open their fist when they are ready to give the treat. Train the puppy that sitting patiently and looking at them makes the fist magically open so she can have her reward.\n\nSTEP 7 | Leave-it version 1: When she consistently looks at your forehead: When she gets to the point where she consistently looks in the direction of your\n\nforehead when you present her with the treat in your fist, you can give the treat\n\nSTEP 8 | Leave-it version 1: Give the treat from your fist too.\n\nNext train her to look at your face without using a lure near your forehead.\n\nSTEP 9 | Leave-it version 1: Reward her for looking at your eyes: Now work on rewarding her for looking at your eyes, even without the treat lure near your face.\n\nWhen she removes her nose from your hand and looks up at your face, immediately\n\nsay “yes” and open your fist hand so she can get the treat.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 150, "chunk_index": 65, "id": "10bdd8f7-1e47-409d-a46f-dadd393c979c", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "At this point you can put this behavior on cue using a cue such as “leave-it,” or you\n\ncan expect her to automatically take treats nicely from you and anyone else who\n\nhands her a treat in a closed fist. If you have kids or your puppy likes to grab\n\nharshly, I recommend that you train her to automatically take the treat nicely from\n\n5.4.2 Version 2: Blocking her from getting to food on the ground.\n\nWhen she canʼt get what she wants, she should sit and look at you and then maybe youʼll give it to her.\n\nWhen you block her, she cannot get by so she shouldnʼt even try.\n\nWhen thereʼs food on the ground, she should leave it—either on your cue or automatically, depending\n\nWhen you give the release word such as “okay,” she can do what she wants—which is probably to get the food on the ground.\n\nSTEP 1 | Leave-it version 2: Drop the treat behind you: Itʼs best to wear a hands-free leash during this exercise instead of holding the leash in your hands so\n\nyou donʼt subconsciously do weird things with the leash. With your puppy standing\n\nor sitting in front of you, drop the treat to the side and behind you. Make sure the\n\nSTEP 2 | Leave-it version 2: Block her from getting to the treat: When the puppy moves forward to try to get to it, step in front of her as if youʼre doing a basketball\n\nblock (Figure 5.4.2C-D). That means youʼre not allowed to grab the leash. Every\n\ntime she tries to outmaneuver you and get around you, just step in front of her. If\n\nyou have a quick puppy, you may want to try this in a hallway or with a wall on one", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 152, "chunk_index": 66, "id": "c793ee54-f71e-4e8a-9352-51768aac4d08", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "STEP 3 | Leave-it version 2: Wait for her to sit: Eventually, if you clearly outmaneuver her (which should be easy if sheʼs really young and uncoordinated),\n\nsheʼll finally figure it out and look to you for guidance—and then sit.\n\nSTEP 4 | Leave-it version 2: Reward her when she sits: As soon as she sits, give her a treat from your hand. Make sure you do so before she has a chance to get up.\n\nThen give her a sequence of treats making sure you stand up straight between\n\neach treat. Continue the sequence of treats until sheʼs totally focused on you and\n\nno longer tries to look at the treat on the ground.\n\nSTEP 5 | Leave-it version 2: Give her a clear path to the treats: Then make the task more difficult by standing to the side so she has a clear path to the treat. If\n\nshe looks at the treat, smooch to her to see if sheʼll look up.\n\nSTEP 6 | Leave-it version 2: Reward her when she looks up: If she looks up at you, reward her immediately.\n\nSTEP 7 | Leave-it version 2: Block her if she gets up: If she starts to get up, block her so itʼs clear to her that she canʼt get to the treat.\n\nSTEP 8 | Leave-it version 2: Wait until she sits: When sheʼs sure she canʼt get past your block, sheʼll sit.\n\nSTEP 9 | Leave-it version 2: Reward sitting before she has a chance to get up and then follow with a sequence of treats until sheʼs just focused on you.\n\nSTEP 10 | Leave-it version 2: Release her to get the treat: After her last treat wait two more seconds and, as her final reward for continuing to look at you", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 154, "chunk_index": 67, "id": "f1ff63c4-a188-4299-83c2-eb3b33be19e9", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "(Figure 5.4.2S), tell her “okay” or your release word while you point at the food on\n\nSTEP 11 | Leave-it version 2: Let her get to the treat on a loose leash: Let her get the treat on the ground. Make sure you are close enough to the treat so that\n\nsheʼs always on a loose leash and does not get any practice pulling on the leash.\n\nPractice this exercise until she consistently sits within a second of your blocking\n\nher and remains seated until you say okay. At that point, you can give her fewer\n\n“Practice this exercise until your puppy consistently sits within a second of your blocking her and remains seated until you say okay.”\n\nNow youʼre ready to add the cue “leave-it.” Say “leave-it” right after you toss the treat. Only say it once throughout the entire exercise, even if she gets up and you have to block her. She will come to learn “leave-it” means she should get her nose or attention away from the object of interest and sit in front of you for something better. The goal is to form the habit or idea in her mind that thereʼs no need to rush; sheʼs going to get whatʼs on the ground anyway (or a treat from your hand instead).\n\nWhen your puppy becomes consistent with sitting and\n\nlooking at you, switch to using a variable rate of reinforcement for dispensing rewards. This means sometimes she gets treats from your hand and sometimes she doesnʼt. Sometimes she gets the treat on the ground and sometimes she doesnʼt. Sometimes she gets no treats at all. Because she never knows exactly which time the reward will come, but she knows that it comes sometimes, sheʼll try harder. She is now on the same type of reward ratio that lures people to keep gambling.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 157, "chunk_index": 68, "id": "20c07907-a9e5-4d46-8e26-70b6b9ef9892", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "The Variable Reward Schedule (The Power of Gambling)\n\nWhen animals are first learning a new behavior such as sitting politely\n\neverytime you stop on a walk, itʼs best to reward them immediately and every\n\nsingle time they get the task right and to be sure you never accidentally reward the\n\nundesired behavior. By being consistent, you make it clear what you want. Once the\n\npuppy knows the behavior well, you can strengthen the behavior even more by\n\ngoing to a variable schedule of reward. In this situation, you reward, on average\n\nevery second, third, fourth or more, times she does the behavior correctly but not\n\nexactly every second, third, or fourth time. Sometimes she may get rewarded each\n\ntime she performs the behavior and sometimes she gets rewarded the fifth time\n\nshe performs the behavior correctly. That way she never knows exactly which time\n\nsheʼs going to get rewarded for her desired behavior that she already knows pretty\n\nwell. This predictably unpredictable schedule of rewards has been shown to be the\n\nstrongest schedule of reinforcement. In fact itʼs one reason people enjoy gambling.\n\nThey may see that the odds of winning are good, but they donʼt know exactly\n\nIf you decide that your puppy should never be allowed to pick taboo items up off the ground, then instead of releasing her to pick up the treat on the ground, pick it up yourself and hand it to her. When might this version be useful? You may use it if you have a puppy who spends excessive time picking up taboo items off the ground during walks and eating them, or if you have two pets who might fight over dropped food.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 69, "id": "a51f3f3b-6154-4a6d-a1e1-fa6cc35bbf53", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Once your puppy focuses on you well as soon as you start to block, decrease the number of treats you give until you get to the point where you reward primarily with access to the treat on the ground.\n\nimmediately, you can also move to a variable schedule of reinforcement where you sometimes reward her and other times you do not.\n\n5.4.3 Version 3: Tossing food beyond the range of the leash.\n\nThis version of the Learn to Earn exercises also teaches the pup four things. The pup learns:\n\nWhen she canʼt get what she wants, she should sit and look at you and then maybe youʼll give it to her.\n\nWhen she gets to the end of the leash, sheʼs going nowhere so she should come back and look to you for guidance.\n\nWhen thereʼs food on the ground, she should leave it— either on your cue or automatically, depending on what you decide you want.\n\nWhen you give the release word such as “okay,” she can do what she wants—which is probably to get the food on the ground.\n\nSTEP 1 | Leave-it version 3: Toss the treat and wait it out: Start with your dog standing or sitting in front of you and toss a treat out of her leash range. Stand\n\ncompletely still so that when she gets to the end of the leash, she wonʼt pull you\n\nand learn that pulling works. Itʼs important that she gets a chance to figure out\n\nSTEP 2 | Leave-it version 3: Give sequential rewards when she sits and looks at you: Your dog will eventually turn and sit and look at you, because sheʼs been rewarded for this a lot in the past (Figure 5.4.3 C and D). Reward her immediately", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 159, "chunk_index": 70, "id": "89610de6-4364-4b20-b814-c79fee181564", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "when she does (Figure 5.4.3E). Then give her a sequence of treats so that she\n\nremains seated and looking at you (5.4.3F and G). Make sure you stand up straight\n\n“Itʼs important that your puppy gets a chance to learn that pulling doesnʼt work.”\n\nSTEP 3 | Leave-it version 3: Release your puppy to get the treat: When sheʼs just focused on you and not on the ground and holds that focus for 2 seconds, you\n\ncan tell her “okay” and point to the treat on the ground so she knows she can get\n\nit. Or you can pick it up and give it to her if you never want her to pick up things\n\nSTEP 4 | Leave-it version 3: Walk over quickly enough so sheʼs on a loose leash: As soon as you say “okay,” move closer to the treat so she does not have the opportunity to pull you.\n\nINCORRECT: Donʼt let her pull you, or youʼre teaching her that pulling works. That basically negates what you were just trying to teach her.\n\nWhat if she gets up and goes back to the treat on her own?\n\nYour puppy may get up prematurely and head back to the treat: If you deliver the treats slowly or too late or donʼt get sequential treats to your puppy, she may\n\ntry to go back to the treat on the ground before you have released her. Be\n\nconsistent. Remain stationary so you do not let her pull you closer to the treat on\n\nWait her out: Again, sheʼll learn that pulling doesnʼt work. You can give her a hint if she looks like sheʼs trying to figure it out. Smooch or cluck to her, but just once.\n\nWhen she finally sits give her a series of treats for remaining seated. In general,", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 71, "id": "c7355439-a61a-4df5-8579-b9af1f79b50b", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "avoid saying her name unless you are 100% sure sheʼll look at you. Otherwise you\n\nWhen sheʼs consistently sitting within one second of you tossing the treat on the ground, you can start using the cue “leave-it” before you toss the treat.\n\nJust as we want our kids to learn to say “please” and “thank you” automatically, we want puppies and adult dogs to sit automatically for everything they want. Thatʼs why we donʼt just tell them to sit every time we want it even after they know the cue word “sit.” Instead, we make it clear by our action of waiting and rewarding the appropriate behavior that only sitting (their way of saying “please”) and looking at you works to get them what they want.\n\nWe can apply the same leave-it exercise to self control around toys. This exercise is for dogs who love toys, tug or fetch. Practicing self control around toys means your puppy will not feel the need to go after other dogsʼ toys, or to run after anything thatʼs tossed anywhere near her.\n\nWith your dog sitting (Figure 5.4.4A), toss the toy beyond the range of the leash just the way you did with the treat (Figure 5.4.4B). By now she should know she\n\nwonʼt be allowed to run to the end of the leash and pull you to the toy. So at this\n\npoint thereʼs no need to give a verbal leave-it cue; however, you can give her the\n\nleave-it cue just once if you are sure she knows it well—and then stand still in case\n\nshe does leap for the toy. If she remains seated and looking at you, give her a\n\nseries of treats, just as when you were doing this exercise by tossing food on the", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 164, "chunk_index": 72, "id": "05bb3dfa-23ad-4c24-b6ce-fe3ce2053e91", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "When she keeps her eyes on you (Figure 5.4.4C), give her the release word and let her get the toy. Be sure to get there fast enough so sheʼs on a loose leash\n\nWhen she has the toy you can play tug with her, so that she continues to be motivated by toys.\n\nItʼs important for puppies and dogs that go crazy over toys to learn to perform leave-it for their toys and to also learn to sit to have their toy tossed (section 5.3.4). Some people believe that you can train a dog to be well- behaved by exercising him until heʼs tired. For dogs that go bonkers over their toy, if they are allowed to bark and pace and jump and then their toy is tossed, you are actually rewarding them for this unruly behavior. So regardless of how much exercise they are getting, they are practicing impatience and this will negatively affect their behavior in other high excitement situations.\n\n5.4.5 Using leave-it to wait politely at the door.\n\nYou can use one of the leave-it exercises to stop your dog\n\nfrom charging out the door whenever you open it, and to get him to sit to go out on walks. Open the door and be ready to block your dog, just as you did in the leave-it exercise where you tossed food onto the ground behind you.\n\nIf your dog tries to go out on his own, quickly block him. Because I want him to learn to sit automatically in this situation, I am not giving him the leave-it\n\ncommand. My body language should say it all, and if he ignores my body language,\n\nhe would have ignored my verbal leave-it cue, too.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 166, "chunk_index": 73, "id": "2c411e8c-cd47-4e14-beea-ade0eeed24a6", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Now Iʼm standing in front of him. This is like a basketball block. I do not grab his leash; instead, I physically show him that I can outmaneuver him with my body by\n\nHe finally sits. Sit is his default behavior, because heʼs been rewarded so many times with treats for sitting.\n\nNow I reward him with petting before I give him the release word and let him walk through the door. He must look at me for one to two seconds before I reward\n\n5.4.6 Practicing in other real-life situations in the home.\n\nFor the leave-it exercises to be useful in real life, you have\n\nto practice in real-life situations such as when youʼre preparing food in the kitchen or walking around the house or even when youʼre on a walk.\n\nBe ready to block your dog and then reward her only once she sits or lies down and looks at you. If my goal is to have the dog automatically leave any item dropped on the ground, I will not use the cue leave-it. Iʼll just block her. If I want\n\nher to leave the item only on my verbal “leave-it” cue, then once Iʼm pretty certain\n\nshe will respond to my block by sitting quickly, I will use the word “leave-it” an\n\ninstant before I block her. “Leave-it” will be her cue to sit and look at me.\n\nThis type of training is very important in locations such as the kitchen, because you may drop something that dogs are not allowed to have such as this\n\ngrape which may be toxic. Or you may have two dogs who are possessive over\n\ndropped food. If you teach them both to never pick up food off the ground and that", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 168, "chunk_index": 74, "id": "4c20d0d6-bf66-4942-b5fe-b0e5cd86cfa7", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "youʼll pick it up for them, you will eliminate that source of conflict.\n\nNote that because you will have put this behavior on a variable ratio of reinforcement, meaning sometimes the dog gets the “taboo” item youʼre practicing with and sometime she does not, she wonʼt mind not getting the real taboo item because maybe sheʼll get it next time. As a result, sheʼll still retain her polite leave-it habit (Figure 5.4.6F).\n\nWith all of this sitting you probably wonder when to add\n\nthe cue word to sit. So far we havenʼt used many words as cues because we want the puppy to learn to say please by\n\nsitting automatically rather than being micromanaged. Plus weʼve been trying to develop good human habits of relying on body language and properly timed rewards to get desired behaviors. Without going through this specific “no-cue” phase, we humans tend to spew words out repeatedly so that they become meaningless to the pet.\n\ncommunicating with your pet, you can teach the cue word “sit” since you may want your puppy to sit in situations where she does not want something from you and that are not part of the learn to earn program.\n\nTo teach it, just say “sit” an instant before your puppyʼs\n\nabout to sit. For instance if you run with your puppy and then suddenly stop, your puppy should know to sit right as she catches up to you. Say “sit” and instant before she starts to sit. Do this consistently for a couple of days and sheʼll pick up that the word is related to the the action of sitting.\n\nThe purpose of the leash is to help your puppy know what her boundaries are. When she is on leash, never let her pull or you will be rewarding her pulling behavior. Also avoid dragging her around. Your goal is to teach her to stay next to you on a loose leash.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 171, "chunk_index": 75, "id": "ab4bd93b-8824-4d63-926d-69880bde2a16", "word_count": 322, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 418 } }, { "page_content": "When you first put a pup on leash, she may just stand still and not want to walk. Similarly, even after the puppy walks on leash in the house, when she first goes outside into unfamiliar territory, she is more likely to hang back. That makes training her to heel (walk on your left side with her front feet even with or slightly behind you) easy in pups, at least for the first couple of days. In fact, itʼs ideal to train her to heel before she has a chance to learn to pull. Lucyʼs already good on leash in the house because sheʼs been tethered to me in the house for several days and has been rewarded a lot for following me and then sitting. On her first walk outside; however, she was scared, which provided an opportunity for me to show you how to train a puppy whoʼs nervous to follow on leash.\n\nWalking on leash: Start with her on your left side (or the right side if youʼve designated the right as the side on which you want her to regularly walk). Walk a\n\nfew feet away (Figure 5.6.1A). Because sheʼs learned to follow you and sit so much\n\nat home (Refer to section 5.2.2), she should automatically follow you. In fact, it\n\nonly took Lucy a few minutes on day two to teach her how to follow on leash. If she\n\ndoesnʼt follow you, show her the treat by holding it down at her nose level on your\n\nleft side (Figure 5.6.1B). Sheʼll walk right to you.\n\nWhen she catches up, you can reward her when sheʼs standing if sheʼs too nervous to sit right away. You probably only need a food lure the first few times; then she should start to feel more confident and follow more readily. Once sheʼs", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 173, "chunk_index": 76, "id": "d8eb10d1-0c87-4fe8-92c5-89d21288f1fb", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "coming more readily, when she catches up wait for her to sit on your left side and\n\nthen reward her. Then you can switch to rewarding her for walking next to you\n\nrather than only rewarding when youʼve stopped and she sits. You can also\n\nsometimes run and suddenly stop, just as you did with the suddenly settle game\n\n(Refer to section 5.2.2). This makes walking outside while paying attention to you\n\nUse other motivators too: When sheʼs nervous, Lucy stops taking treats, so I bring a toy for her to play with in case she gets scared. Lucy has only been on three short\n\nwalks in my suburban neighborhood and several ventures in other locations, and\n\nhas not yet experienced buses, loud trucks, streetcars and other loud man-made\n\nvehicles. I let her look at the thing thatʼs scaring her, and try to get her into play\n\nmode with a toy or by petting her excitedly as if youʼre playing. Usually, Lucy\n\nThe first step in preventing pulling is to make sure your puppy knows just how much leeway she has on the leash. If weʼre using a conventional leash—you hold it in your hand, rather than a hands-free leash—you have to be careful to choose one leash length and stick with it, rather than accidentally increasing the length by moving your arm. To do this, be sure to keep your leash-holding arm strong against your hip.\n\nCorrect: Keep the leash the same length by keeping your wrist glued to your hip.\n\nINCORRECT: Avoid varying the leash length by moving your arm.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 174, "chunk_index": 77, "id": "50e2a908-a4f6-4faa-8f94-acc360cbea56", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Some puppies love to grab their leash, especially since it dangles in their face. They pull and want you to play with them by pulling back. This is where the learn to earn really comes into play. If they know learn to earn exercises well then if you stand stationary it will be clear that grabbing the leash doesnʼt work; you wonʼt play tug with them. Then they will sit and you can reward them with a treat. To keep their mind off grabbing the leash, remind them of the learn to earn games they already love by quickly moving into the suddenly settle or follow me and sit games.\n\nWhere does walking on leash fall within the Learn to Earn program?\n\nIn this Learn to Earn program puppies learn to sit for everything they want—treats/kibble, toys, petting, going out the door. To learn that they will not get rewards for unwanted behaviors such as blowing you off\n\nwhen they canʼt immediately get what they want, they need to spend time tethered to human family members on leash.\n\nDuring Lucyʼs first week she spent 1-2 hours of our 16 hour day attached to me via hands-free leash while I walked around the house doing chores and various tasks. I made a point to stop frequently so that she could get a lot of practice sitting for treats rather than having a chance to get ahead and pull.\n\nDuring other times of the day she was either tethered to furniture near me, in her crate, or playing with me outside. To see an example of our schedule see section 5.9.\n\nEven in the house, your puppy should be walking next to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 176, "chunk_index": 78, "id": "1db2b1bd-6312-4258-948a-505efe171a51", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "you rather than getting ahead, weaving back and forth, and causing you to trip and fall. So as soon as his front feet get ahead of your feet, just stop so that you are stationary by the time he gets to the end of the leash.\n\nINCORRECT: Never let the dog pull on leash. Remember, every time youʼre near him, youʼre training him to do either the right thing or the wrong thing.\n\nHere, when he pulls, I stop before the dog gets to the end of the leash. He thinks, “Hey, nothingʼs happening, I donʼt get to go where I want.”\n\n. . . and sits in front of me. Then I can reward him with a treat and walk forward.\n\nBecause puppies like to follow, they can start off with a virtually 100% perfect recall. Unfortunately, most people mess this up because they spend a lot of time calling their pup— “Rover, Rover, Rover”—when their pup could care less. The puppy just learns to ignore her name and the command to come. Or they think their pup likes to follow them already, so they donʼt reward the pupʼs following behavior. Then, when the pup becomes more independent, she no longer cares to follow.\n\nTo turn your pupʼs following response (the one you trained on day one by training her to say please by sitting) into a recall, call the pup only when you know she will come. For instance, if you call her and run the other way, sheʼll naturally want to chase you. When she does come, make it worth her while. Give her treats, pet her, play with her. You may need to do this with her on leash so that she has no", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 177, "chunk_index": 79, "id": "a84f5923-565d-4f12-9158-08d479b83936", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "option but to come. If she never has the opportunity to do anything but come running to you when called, and coming is always fun (that is, you donʼt yell at her and expect her to come running or call her to come so you can end a game), then coming when called, even with a lot of distractions, will become a habit.\n\n“Because puppies like to follow, they can start off with a virtually 100% perfect recall. Just make sure that coming when called is always fun, it ends with a reward that they like. Also make sure that at first you practice with a leash so that the puppy never has the opportunity to do anything but immediately run to you as soon as he hears you call.”\n\n5.7.1 Come is an extension of the fun sit exercises.\n\nCome when called: This exercise is just an extension of say please by sitting (Refer to section 5.2.2). First make sure your pup consistently follows you when\n\nyou run and then sits when she catches up without your needing to guide her with\n\nthe leash. If youʼre not sure about this exercise, go back and practice some more.\n\nWhen youʼre 100% sure sheʼll follow you in this game, say “Lucy come” (substitute\n\nyour dogʼs name, of course!). Say it just once, but in an energetic, encouraging\n\nvoice, and run a short distance away from her (Figure 5.7.1A). When she catches up\n\nto you, reward her after she sits (Figure 5.7.1B).\n\nIf youʼre not sure whether your puppy will follow, start with her on leash so that you can coax her a little and at least prevent her from running off.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 180, "chunk_index": 80, "id": "e7131a7e-57b6-4749-9959-933ca7a950a4", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "If needed, reward her right when she gets to you rather then waiting for her to sit. Then give her more rewards when she sits. If she doesnʼt follow you 100% of the time, go back to section 5.2.2 and practice some more.\n\nYou can also reward her with praise, petting, or play, whichever she likes at the time you are training.\n\nThe goal of the previous exercise was to make coming when called fun. When it is, even with distractions your dog will think running when sheʼs called is as fun as what sheʼs already doing. But sometimes to be sure, we need to have the puppy on leash so that she has no other option but to come when called.\n\nHere Lucy wants to explore what Jonesy is eating and Jonesy wants his personal space. I shouldnʼt leave it up to Jonesy to have to teach Lucy whatʼs right all the\n\nI grab onto the leash that Lucy was dragging so I have control. Note that this takes place during a specific session in which Iʼm watching her closely and letting\n\nher wander around the room—because I still have to be careful about her potty\n\nThen I call her and head the other direction. I pull gently on her leash to get her facing my way and then show her the treat so she knows where to run.\n\nSince this is a high distraction situation, Iʼll give her the treat when sheʼs still standing.\n\nComing when called should be as much fun as playing with another dog or exploring new things. My ultimate goal is to make coming when called so much fun that Lucy immediately runs in my direction full speed the first time she hears me call her. Then I can reward her with treats, petting, praise or whatever she responds to, and then provide an added reward of letting her go back and play.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 181, "chunk_index": 81, "id": "6f0081fc-bae5-4f4b-ad40-1d33ff638bff", "word_count": 319, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 414 } }, { "page_content": "Hereʼs another example with a cat: Lucy just met this cat and wants to wrestle and play. The cat doesnʼt like pushy play behavior and tries to escape.\n\nI hold the leash, call Lucy and then immediately run in the other direction.\n\nLucy immediately comes running. When she consistently comes running immediately when called without feeling even a gentle pull on her leash, we can\n\nstart practicing come when called off leash. Notice that I hold the treats down at\n\nher level when sheʼs just learning to perform in this distracting situation.\n\nAlso practice having her come away from playmates. When\n\ndoing so, you can reward her with treats and repeat sits, then let her play with the other dogs again (as long as theyʼre willing!).\n\n5.8.1 Method 1: Distracting and replacing with an appropriate toy\n\nPuppies love to chew on objects including our shoes,\n\npants, and arms. To them all objects are toys. We can train them to only chew on appropriate toys by providing appropriate toys and redirection play towards them.\n\nPuppies like to chew on clothes and shoes. Here Lucyʼs chewing my shoelace and my shoe.\n\nReplace the inappropriate object with a more appropriate one: I wave a more appropriate toy in front of her and she grabs it.\n\nMake toys more fun by tugging them a little but be able to get your puppy to release it within one second with a food trade so she doesnʼt learn to get overly aroused.\n\nPut treats in the toy or toss it around in order to make it more interesting and fun.\n\nPrevent your puppy from chewing your shoes in the first place by putting a toy in her face as soon as she shows interest in your shoes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 184, "chunk_index": 82, "id": "2659e454-5c15-4629-a06a-80c6592d8496", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Avoid waving your feet and shoes because doing so will make it appear like a toy.\n\n5.8.2 Method 2: Distracting with a treat, rewarding calm sit.\n\nNever let a puppy chew on your arm. If she does, you can\n\ntry saying “ow!” or “out!” really loud—loud enough to startle her. When she lets go and looks at you, reward her with a treat and then put something more appropriate in her mouth. If “out” works to get her to immediately let go, then it can become her cue word to let go.\n\nPuppies like to grab our waving arms the same way they grab their playmates: Never let a puppy chew on your arm. If she does, you can try saying “ow!” or “out!”\n\nreally loud—loud enough to startle her. When she lets go and looks at you, reward\n\nher with a treat and then put something more appropriate in her mouth. If “out”\n\nworks to get her to immediately let go, then it can become her cue word to let go.\n\nLucy doesnʼt respond to a sharp, loud “ow.” The sound does not startle her and\n\nmake her stop and look at me. So I donʼt use it with her because itʼs just wasted\n\nbreath and clouds the meaning of other words I might use. Instead, I just show her\n\nthe treat. Since sheʼs used to the food reward routine and is earning all her food by\n\nShe lets go and I give her the treat (kibble). If she didnʼt let go, Iʼd shove the treat in her face so she would be sure to see it. Also make sure the treat is big\n\nenough. Next, I put a toy in her mouth and she falls on her back and plays with it.\n\nI can still teach Lucy the cue “out” if I say “out” and", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 187, "chunk_index": 83, "id": "eacd6dd2-603b-4450-8f8e-9a6516bf1696", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "immediately push a food treat in her face, so she lets go within one to two seconds of the cue. If I pair the word with a consistent response by her, then the word will take on the meaning “let go.” If I say the cue and cannot get a consistent response, then the word will just be babbling noise.\n\nYou know all the exercises now and that the puppy should spend a lot of time attached to family members on leash. Hereʼs an example of how to make polite behavior a habit throughout the day. This is what the first couple of days in the house were like with Lucy.\n\nPotty then play session 1: Open up Lucyʼs crate and rush outside before she has a chance to stop and potty in the hallway.\n\nShe immediately pees when outside, but I stand around not playing with her for 10 minutes until she poops too.\n\nPlaytime: During this time she works for her kibble playing the “chase after me and suddenly sit for a treat” game. Then we work on toy tugging, sit to have toy tossed, and food trades to get the to back. I also pick her up and practice handling her while giving her treats so she learns to enjoy it.\n\nShe potties again. Then I take her inside. She also has access to water outside.\n\nRest in her crate: where she canʼt have a potty accident. She has toys to keep\n\nher occupied and is playing with them. Note that for short periods I can let her\n\nplay outside on her own unsupervised if I have a puppy safe and potty\n\nPotty then play session 2: Take her out to potty. This time she goes right\n\naway, so I play with her for 10 minutes. Same as the first play session. I let her", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 189, "chunk_index": 84, "id": "5c8ec646-8466-419c-b78c-942b587731e5", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "She follows me around the house, attached to me with a hands-free leash:\n\nWhenever I stop and am standing around, if she sits I give her sequential\n\nrewards. Sheʼs already starting to sit a lot. She lies in her bed by my desk when I\n\nPotty then play session 3: I take her outside. She does not go potty, so I put\n\nher in her crate (for 15 minutes) and then take her out again. This time she\n\npotties, so she gets some off-leash yard play time again with me for 10\n\nAttached to me while I work in my office: She is tethered nearby with toys.\n\nPotty then play session 4: By now I am rewarding her for her sit behavior with\n\npetting instead of treats. Sometimes I reward with petting and other times with\n\nAttached to me: while I work in my office. Again, she is tethered nearby with\n\nPotty then play session 5: Sheʼs getting good at sitting to be petted. Now\n\nJonesy gets to run with her outside and get rewarded too. A friend comes over\n\nand Lucy gets to practice greeting a new person, plus the friendʼs dog. They\n\nRest in her crate: with toys while I have my dinner.\n\nPotty then tethered to me: in the house. I reward her sits with petting or some\n\nPotty and play or handling session: She may sit on my lap in different\n\nLast potty break: Then to bed in her crate for the night.\n\nTime spent tethered to me or to furniture near me in the house (such as\n\nTime spent tethered to me walking around the house.\n\nJust in case your head is spinning hereʼs a quick recap of\n\n5.10.1 Tether your puppy to you during a busy time of day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 189, "chunk_index": 85, "id": "244deed1-7c9f-449c-a9b8-ce881ebb46de", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy should be tethered to you via a hands-free leash for at least 1-2 hours a day during a time when you are walking around the house a lot such as\n\nwhen you are tidying, cooking, or cleaning up. Itʼs important that youʼre walking\n\naround the house a lot so that the puppy has a lot of practice learning to learn to\n\nwalk by your side as you go from place to place and sitting when you stop or stand\n\nSit at doors: Remember that she should also sit to go outside or come back inside.\n\nSit for petting: She should also sit for all petting and attention.\n\n5.10.2 Tether your puppy to you when you are working at your desk or relaxing.\n\nYou puppy should also spend time tethered to or near you when you are working or relaxing. You can reward with petting or treats/kibble. Reward\n\nfrequently enough so she remains sitting or lying down or provide toys for her to\n\nplay with so she doesnʼt try to jump on or climb on you or get into other trouble.\n\n5.10.3 Provide play time and work on training games.\n\nShe should have plenty of playtime outside in a potty safe area (or inside but when you can watch her for signs that she has to potty).\n\nRemember that she must practice desired behaviors even during play. You can have her run after you but when she catches up she should sit.\n\nFetch: She can also play fetch but must sit before you toss the toy.\n\nOther dogs: She can also play with other dogs who are well-behaved.\n\n5.10.4 Where should your puppy be when you need a break from her?\n\nIn her crate: Include toys or a food-filled Kong® to keep her entertained. If you use food, be sure itʼs a portion of her regular daily alotment.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 191, "chunk_index": 86, "id": "c9a6dbd3-8a30-437c-bc59-a7f190058bc0", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "Tethered in the same room but away from you: Make sure she has enough toys to keep her occupied. She does not need to remain seated or lying down in this\n\nIn an exercise pen: Only put her here if sheʼs already potty trained or if you have to be gone for long periods of time. In the latter case make one side comfy and set\n\nIn a puppy and potty-safe area outside: She can be placed outside alone for short periods. If sheʼs supervised she can be outside for longer periods.\n\nSit to come in: When she wants to come in, make sure she asks by sitting quietly.\n\nEvery time you interact with your puppy youʼre training her even if youʼre not aware of it. If you want your puppy to develop good behavior, youʼll have to pay attention to your every movement and action around her.\n\nEach exercise of the Learn to Earn Program takes just minutes to train. To make these new polite behaviors a habit though, youʼll need to consistently reward only the desired behaviors and avoid rewarding the unwanted behaviors until they are routine.\n\nWhy is early socialization so essential? As pointed out in chapter one, three weeks to three months is the sensitive period for socialization in dogs. That means this is the time when the puppy is curious and primed to form social bonds. Itʼs the golden window for Lucy to learn that all kinds of people and dogs, objects, and environments are safe. After this period, her default setting will be to fear everything new. Thatʼs why itʼs important for puppies and their humans to participate in puppy socialization classes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 195, "chunk_index": 87, "id": "374ed1fb-e328-4379-b7ee-21c5f0f9c601", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "The more positive experiences your puppy has during this\n\nperiod, the less fearful she will be when facing new things in the future. So during this time, and continuing through at least one year of age, itʼs important to give her many positive experiences so she can learn that new things are interesting and fun. The reason to continue for so long is that some dogs just need constant practice and others go through a prominent fear period some time between six months and over a year where they are more sensitive to becoming fearful again.\n\nWhile socialization is essential, itʼs important, to recognize when your puppy is afraid or has had enough of something new. So at the end of this chapter Iʼll give you a kind of canine body language visual dictionary to help you recognize fear and anxiety. Iʼll also give you some advice about how to deal with it.\n\nMost of us want to occasionally cuddle and hug our dogs;\n\nbut what many owners donʼt know is that while many dogs may tolerate hugging, most do not enjoy it. If you start with handling exercises when your puppy is young, she can learn to not only enjoy the handling needed for everyday healthcare but can learn to enjoy being cuddled and hugged too.\n\n6.1.1 Teach them to enjoy being held in different positions.\n\nBe sure to get them used to every position that you might\n\npotentially hold them in. This includes tight cuddling and hugging.\n\nPractice holding her in different positions. Give treats periodically to reward her and to distract her from struggling. If sheʼs likely to struggle give treats faster to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 200, "chunk_index": 88, "id": "60a658da-ab7e-4557-a0c4-ae0ef64fa659", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "distract her and keep her calm. Make sure you hold the treats right up to her face\n\nso it encourages her to remain still, rather than holding the treats in a way that\n\ncauses her to reach for them. Once sheʼs relaxed, slow the treat rate down.\n\nAvoid letting her go when she struggles. Instead, support her well and release her when she relaxes.\n\nGive treats frequently at first if your puppy is uncomfortable with being in a new position.\n\nLucy struggles at first in this position but she quickly calms down when she realizes she gets treats. Itʼs important to support the puppy well and hold her firmly even when youʼre giving her treats. Sheʼs supported in the groove between\n\nthe handlerʼs legs and the handler is holding both legs above the elbow.\n\nWithin a couple of days Lucy can be picked up and placed in almost any position and she remains relaxed.\n\nYou can also use these exercises to help her be an\n\nexcellent client at the veterinarianʼs office. Be sure to train her to enjoy getting injections, foot handling, mouth handling, ear handling, toenail trims and being placed in many different\n\npositions. Lucy is already good for all of these things, but needs continued practice. (For handling exercises in detail, refer to chapters 18 and 19 of Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. Visit www.lowstresshandling.com)\n\n6.1.2 Handle your puppyʼs feet, ears and mouth, as if youʼre examining\n\nMake sure you include all types of handling and care your puppy may need. That includes grooming, cleaning the eyes, the feel of the clippers, brushing their teeth, grabbing their tail, feeling their rear the same way a veterinary technician might prior to inserting a thermometer. At first always pair with food so they have a good experience.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 201, "chunk_index": 89, "id": "e9276a3d-d22c-4342-9413-b333200f8ad7", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Foot handling: Lucy is receiving a treat as her foot is being squeezed. Itʼs important only at the level where she remains focused on treats. After several\n\nsuccesses, we then squeeze more firmly, but still stay below her threshold for\n\nToenail Trim: Later we will clip her nails as sheʼs getting a treat as we are with this puppy. Then we will graduate to clipping a nail or 2 followed by giving a treat and\n\nwork up to clipping all of her nails and rewarding her calm behavior with treats or\n\nHead collar: This is also a great time to train your pup to love wearing a head halter such as the Gentle Leader® Headcollar. The head halter can come in handy early in training because it helps you guide the pupʼs head and thus her focus back\n\nto you. It can be very useful on walks when used correctly. We didnʼt work on this\n\nwith Lucy but hereʼs an example with other puppies. Just give the puppy treats\n\nthrough the nose loop until he willingly puts his nose through.\n\nOnce you have the head collar on, continue to give treats and distract them so they get used to wearing it. For more details on how to train this download the\n\nhandout on training dogs to love wearing muzzles at\n\nhttp://drsophiayin.com/professional-resources. The approach is nearly identical.\n\nThis puppy is getting treats as the technician pokes. As soon as the technician stops poking, she removes the remaining treats. Then she repeats the procedure a\n\nbunch of times so that the puppy can learn that treats are specifically associated", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 204, "chunk_index": 90, "id": "2a14d085-e3d7-440d-8da2-071f94e1912b", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "with being poked and treats stop when the poking stops. As usual the goal is to\n\nalways stay below the level that causes the puppy to react negatively. The puppy\n\nContinue these exercises with each family member and anyone who might care for the puppy even if the puppy has already gone through the exercises with the breeder or others.\n\nHold the puppy so she feels secure and canʼt get loose. Use food to distract her and provide a positive association.\n\nOnly release the puppy when sheʼs calm so you donʼt train her to struggle.\n\nPuppies can get better or worse within days: This particular puppy was calm for handling at eight weeks of age. Her new owner; however, would release her\n\nwhenever she started struggling. Within two days she had learned to growl\n\nwhenever she didnʼt want to be handled. After a week of proper handling as\n\ndescribed in the chapter by the new owner, the puppy again remained relaxed\n\n6.1.3 Train them that having their collar grabbed is fun.\n\nGotcha is a collar grab thatʼs important because you never\n\nknow when you might have to suddenly grab your puppy to get her out of trouble. Many dogs react to sudden grabbing by becoming scared or think they need to defend themselves. By teaching a collar grab, our goal is that the puppy learns that having the collar grabbed is fun.\n\nPractice gotcha so that you can pull her away from distractions: Grab her collar (Figure 6.1.3A) and gently guide her into a big treat (Figures 6.1.3B,C). That way,\n\nshe learns to associate a collar grab with getting a treat and will enjoy being", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 206, "chunk_index": 91, "id": "a2000465-0c2d-4ca2-98f4-d7bf4aeced99", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "grabbed in the future, rather than reacting aggressively. Make sure that when you\n\nfirst start this exercise, the treat is fairly close to her head so she doesnʼt have to\n\nbe pulled far to get something good. Also make sure the treat is high value to her.\n\nWhen youʼre sure sheʼs having positive experiences, then hold the treat further\n\naway. You know she likes having her collar grabbed when her normal response to\n\nyour grabbing it is that she turns and looks for a treat or heads to where she thinks\n\nyou are holding or hiding the treat (in your hand).\n\nTo help prevent Lucy from experiencing fear and anxiety\n\nwhen meeting new people, I set a goal to give her positive experiences with 100 different people in 100 days. itʼs important that the experiences are positive, not just neutral or unknown. So far, in the week Iʼve had her sheʼs met 10 people and liked them all. I avoid having her meet too many people at once since I donʼt want to overwhelm her.\n\nHave different types of people handle your puppy and give her treats for sitting. Donʼt risk giving your puppy a neutral or negative experience. To make sure her experience is always positive, make sure she looks happy and relaxed\n\n(thereʼs a canine body language guide at the end of this chapter), wants to greet\n\nthem, and even gets treats or experiences something else positive (such as a toy\n\ntoss or petting, if she likes that). In these photos Lucy is getting used to people\n\nHere Lucy greets a child, Liliana. Lilianaʼs mother gives Lucy treats for sitting so that Lucy doesnʼt jump.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 208, "chunk_index": 92, "id": "af627582-5d06-411c-a7a8-2426c3f1d431", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Lucy sits for Liliana, who already knows how to feed treats to dogs. Even after receiving a treat, Lucy continues to sit patiently while watching Liliana.\n\nMost likely youʼll need to give treats continuously to a puppy to keep her from jumping on kids and guests, since these people will not know how to avoid reinforcing jumping behavior (see section 5.3). When your puppy is sitting reliably, you can decrease the rate of treats. Because Lucyʼs been rewarded so much for sitting, she readily sits and remains seated for Liliana (Figures 6.2.1D, E). And even when sheʼs standing and Liliana starts to pet her, Lucy sits instead of jumping. Of course, if she had just been playing with another dog or was in a new environment, she might not be as calm.\n\n6.2.2 Lucy learns to enjoy being handled by unfamiliar people too.\n\nItʼs important for her to learn to enjoy letting others handler her too. When she goes to the veterinary hospital unfamiliar technicians and doctors may be treating\n\nGiving your puppy positive experiences with many different dogs is an important part of socialization. But itʼs important that she interact only with appropriately behaved pets. For instance, interacting with a larger dog who just keeps pouncing on your puppy even though she screams can train her to be afraid of other dogs. In fact, when he was a puppy, my dadʼs last Cattle Dog was pounced on at the dog park on several occasions by a boisterous German Shepherd puppy. The Shepherdʼs owner shouted, “Heʼs only playing.” But my dadʼs Cattle Dog, who was screaming, was still terrified. After that, he was defensively aggressive to other dogs, especially German Shepherds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 210, "chunk_index": 93, "id": "06f5efb0-5eea-422b-bdb6-0ebf6f0cbbc6", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Lucyʼs already met and played with seven new dogs in her first week with me. Itʼs a good idea to set up play dates with vaccinated, well-behaved dogs. Lucy has\n\nbeen immediately comfortable with all of her dog visitors and solicited play with all\n\nof them without being too rough. Avoid letting your puppy play with dogs who are\n\ntoo rough, or she could learn to play in an overly aggressive manner. Also protect\n\nher from dogs who pounce on and scare her, or pester her when she tries to get\n\n6.3.1 Itʼs important to know when other dogs need a rest.\n\nNot all dogs like to play, and while many like to play with\n\ntheir friends and other adult dogs, they may dislike pesky puppies. Or maybe they like playing a little, but not as much or as often as a pup.\n\nMake sure the other dog wants to play. Hereʼs Lucy and my dog, Jonesy. Both are off leash and Jonesyʼs clearly trying to avoid Lucy (Figure 6.3.1A). Then when\n\nshe sticks her face in his mouth while heʼs complaining, that really sets him off\n\n(Figure 6.3.1B). He roars and bares his teeth and she ends up backing off (not\n\nIf she continues to bother him in spite of his warnings, I will distract her and\n\nreward her for more appropriate behavior, such as coming when called, and sitting\n\nand paying attention to me and then playing with a toy. If I continue to let her\n\nharass him and he always has to defend himself, I will be failing Jonesy by not\n\nItʼs helpful to let well-behaved, experienced dogs teach", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 212, "chunk_index": 94, "id": "036d5305-6540-4c26-acae-94826b2743bf", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "puppies that a raised lip means to back off and the next step is a roar and a snap. But sometimes the older dog is not big enough or strong enough to make this message clear. Or the older dog may be intolerant and overreact. In either case, itʼs up to us to teach the puppy that when the other dog makes these signals, the pup should leave him alone and come to us because we call her.\n\nSet the situation up so other pets can get away from the puppy\n\nHereʼs a better play set-up. Now Lucy is on leash and tethered to a piece of furniture. She can still play, but Jonesy can play on his terms. When he wants to\n\nplay, he comes over to her. Set the situation up so other pets can get away from\n\nWhen he wants a break, he can just walk away out of her reach.\n\nNow they play in short bouts (Figures 6.2.1G) and then rest for a few seconds so they can both calm down (Figure 6.2.1H) and then start playing again. The play is\n\nalways calm and relaxed. If the puppy yelps, play stops. If Jonesy needs a break, he\n\nLucy was already socialized to a cat in her first home.\n\nHere I let her socialize with dog-friendly cats. If the sheʼs too pushy, work on come when called. Remember, she should be on leash unless youʼre 100% sure\n\nsheʼll come when called. You can also give her treats for focusing on you or playing\n\ngames with you near the cat, so sheʼs not overly focused on the cat.\n\nLater, Iʼll introduce her to livestock and get her to focus on me around animals in nature. The goal is that she can focus on me with all distractions and that she can", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 213, "chunk_index": 95, "id": "9b290f39-a3f4-460d-88ab-b4d379a6f657", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Until your puppy is fully vaccinated, avoid parks and other\n\nlocations where there might be unvaccinated dogs. Instead, walk on sidewalks and visit places where you know there will be no unvaccinated dogs.\n\nLucyʼs initially afraid of cars and tries to run the other way. We started in quiet areas and worked on repeated sit exercises and other games, as well as just letting\n\nher sit and watch the cars while giving her treats. By her third day, sheʼs\n\ncomfortable enough to watch them and eat treats—and to even ignore the car and\n\nHere Lucy visits a car repair garage and hangs out in the waiting room, where she gets to play with the mechanics. Itʼs important to socialize her to both men and\n\nwomen, and people of different ethnicities, energy levels and sizes.\n\nPeople frequently socialize their puppy incorrectly by taking her out but not recognizing that the pup is not having a positive experience. Itʼs important to be able to read your pupʼs emotional state, so youʼll know if sheʼs fearful or anxious. What follows is a kind of canine body language dictionary. You can download this handout/poster for free at www.drsophiayin.com.\n\nWhen scared, dogs hold their ears out to the side or back. They can also hold their ears in these positions for other reasons, so do not rely on ears alone to\n\ndetermine the dogʼs state of mind. When they are fearful, their brows show varying\n\ndegrees of furrowing. In this picture, Jonesy, my Jack Russell Terrier, is fearful\n\nWhen holding a ball in front of this dog, his ears perk forward.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 216, "chunk_index": 96, "id": "1d8bd747-6d65-45e7-8aa9-9dd964578c36", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "When heʼs being petted and enjoys it (which I know because heʼs rubbing against me), his ears go out and back slightly. Note that his brow is not furrowed. Heʼs not\n\nHere is his ear position when heʼs waiting for a treat. His ears are perked forward.\n\nWhen he gets the treat and itʼs in his mouth or right in front of his nose, his ears go out slightly and back as his eyes try to focus on the tidbit near his nose. Note\n\nDogs lick their lips when theyʼre nervous, or even excited. When itʼs nervousness, the licking is accompanied by other signs of fear as well.\n\nA dog may stop eating, even treats, when he is nervous. Or he may grab the food more aggressively.\n\nNow, several seconds later, he takes the treat that he refused earlier because heʼs a little less nervous. But he may go in and out of various states of fear.\n\nAnd they may pant when they are not hot or thirsty.\n\nOne of the most important early signs of fear is that the dog acts sleepy or lethargic (Figure 6.6.5A). Both of these dogs have their eyes partially closed and are moving slowly. This tired appearance (Figure 6.6.5B) can change from situation\n\nto situation or within seconds. When they are hypervigilant and moving in this\n\nsleepy way, they appear to be looking around in slow motion.\n\nThis dog is ducking to avoid being touched by an unfamiliar person. Overall, the dog leans away with his head and body low; his entire body is tense. The dogʼs\n\ngaze is often averted, as if avoiding your eyes will keep you from seeing him, since", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 221, "chunk_index": 97, "id": "dd101fb1-8130-4d2a-a61a-389af4085d93", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "a direct stare can be seen as a threat. If the dogʼs head is pointed away from you\n\nand heʼs still trying to look at you, youʼll see the whites of his eyes (called whale\n\neye). Also, his ears are often flat against his head and his tail is tucked beneath\n\nhim. Cowering or running away are the most blatant signs of fear. Hopefully in\n\nmost instances you recognize the more subtle signs first.\n\nThis dog is only cowering a little while standing. She is very tense though, which indicates that she is very nervous.\n\nThis dog is sitting, but she lowers her head as an unfamiliar person approaches because sheʼs afraid of unfamiliar people. If the person fails to notice this slight cowering and continues walking forward, the dog will either cower more,\n\nor lunge, bark, and possibly bite in order to protect herself.\n\n6.6.7 Cowering vs. submissive vs. affiliative gestures: an updated\n\nFor many decades dog enthusiasts have been throwing the terminology describing body language and social behavior\n\naround carelessly—not out of maliciousness or laziness, but because this is how the terms were first used by scientists. Now, decades later, wolf biologists, comparative psychologists, and researchers studying canine social behavior have come to a clearer understanding of dogs and have, in turn revised some of the terminology that describes them. As with science in general, it often takes 10 or more years for the new information to trickle down to the general public. Here is the most updated information to date.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 225, "chunk_index": 98, "id": "5aa4dce6-c58f-44cd-b3b4-6fc53efef564", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Cowering vs. Submissive Posture vs. Affiliative Gestures\n\nCowering: People sometimes equate cowering with submissive behavior and assume this behavior is good—that it means the dog is telling them he is willing to\n\nbe subordinate to them. This interpretation is not quite correct. Dogs cower when\n\nthey are afraid. It could be due to fear of punishment, a loud noise, or an\n\nunfamiliar, person, object, or dog that they perceive as scary.\n\nSubmissive or de-escalating postures: The actual definition of a submissive posture is one that it intended to turn off aggression and signal that the dog\n\noffering the signals will not fight—at least if the other dog (or person) reacts\n\nappropriately by stopping his assault. Hence submissive postures are now referred\n\nto by some scientists as de-escalating postures. These postures may or may not be\n\ndriven by fear. For instance when playing with a friend, if one dog gets too rough\n\nand the other indicates itʼs irritation by growling, the instigator may get down low\n\nbut most likely in a relaxed manner. This posture signals clearly that he is backing\n\noff. If the instigator lowers her body to the ground and is tense, trembling or\n\nsuddenly moves in slow motion, this indicates fear. In both cases the appropriate\n\nresponse from the growling dog is to stop the threat too.\n\nAffiliative gestures: Sometimes similar low body postures are exhibited in the absence of a threat. For instance, some dogs naturally greet other dogs and people\n\nby approaching with a low posture or even by lying down. Their body is relaxed", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 227, "chunk_index": 99, "id": "a6d375f2-6ac3-40c6-979b-12cf2805389a", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "though, their ears slightly back, and their tail or even their entire rear end is\n\nwagging. They often lick the other dog, especially on the side of the mouth the way\n\na puppy might in order to solicit food. This is an affiliative gesture—one that\n\npromotes bonding. These postures are also called appeasement gestures; however\n\nthe term “appeasement” can be confusing since some dictionary definitions for\n\nappeasement can overlap with the definition for submissive. I prefer referring to\n\nthe postures in this type of context as affiliative.\n\nSome dogs are more likely to exhibit affiliative postures\n\nthan others. A highly gregarious dog may perform these gestures regularly when he greets new dogs or he may perform them primarily with dogs heʼs well-bonded with. Dogs may also direct affiliative behavior towards people if they are highly attracted to people.\n\nThis dog Niko loves playing with other dogs. At the dog park he goes up to dogs and greets in this manner. It generally results fairly quickly in mutual play.\n\nDogs that run up to Niko quickly cause him to roll on his back. After they have\n\nsniffed him he gets up and runs away with his tail tucked between his legs. This\n\nbelly-up display is a submissive behavior, one offered by the dog in order to turn\n\noff potential aggression. As a result, it would be appropriate to call it a submissive\n\nNiko also loves socializing with people and greets them with the same affiliative posture.\n\nHereʼs Lucy as a grown-up. Lucy loves my dog, Jonesy, whom she probably considers her older brother. Whenever she is reunited with him, she gets to his", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 227, "chunk_index": 100, "id": "2c45d597-6e47-4542-9254-2cb42faa9e54", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "level and licks his face, but she also sometimes jumps on him in play. Jonesy does\n\nnot particularly love Lucy to the extent that she loves him, but he generally puts up\n\nwith her affiliative behavior. Lucy loves humans, including unfamiliar people. She\n\nAlthough the low body posture and licking are affiliative gestures in the contexts and cases described above, dogs who are uncomfortable meeting new dogs or those who do not already have a relationship with the friendly individual may\n\ndislike being approached in this exuberant manner because it invades their personal space. Itʼs similar to having a stranger or casual acquaintance approach too closely and then hover around you.\n\nFearful dogs may frequently glance in different directions\n\nand for short time periods, the same way you might keep looking around for danger if you were walking alone in a bad neighborhood late at night and thought someone might be following you. Owners frequently think their fearful dog is just watching the scenery, when actually he is scanning for danger.\n\nHypervigilance: Heʼs glancing around constantly, scanning for danger.\n\nFearful dogs can easily learn that offense is the best defense. Rather than fleeing or freezing when they are fearful, they believe they should attack—sometimes even before the object or person or dog has a chance to get close. These dogs still show signs of anxiety and fear, such as averting their gaze, hiding and backing up. But these signs of anxiety may be\n\nfleeting as they put up a strong front. They are likely to show anxious signs in other circumstances though.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 229, "chunk_index": 101, "id": "a6612c30-2909-4d10-86a8-adaf7b4777ab", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "This dog adopts a highly aroused posture when he sees objects such as brooms that startle him and scare him. Heʼs tense, leaning forward, tail and head held high and ears forward initially, when the object is far enough away. As the\n\nobject comes closer, he will show fear postures and back away.\n\nIf you notice signs of fear or anxiety in your puppy, the goal is to change her emotional state to happy. You can do so by doing things that make her happy, such as feeding a steady stream of treats so she doesnʼt have a chance to think about how scared she is. Or you can have her perform behaviors that are fun. You have a bunch youʼve worked on already—repeat sits, come when called. You must do them in rapid succession to prevent her from thinking about the scary thing.\n\n6.7.1 Why to avoid forcing your puppy to face her fears.\n\nSome people may think that if your dog is fearful you should just place her in the fear-inducing situation so she gets used to it. This can work in cases where the puppyʼs fear is not intense and even in some cases where it is. But it can also be associated with some major side effects.\n\nAvoid trying to handle the scary situation by just holding her down as the “danger” approaches. This might work if the fear is minor. But it can also backfire and make the fear much worse. Why?\n\nImagine you were afraid of spiders and someone put this close to you.\n\nNow imagine they held you down while holding the spider close to you.\n\nA better approach is to work at a distance where you can", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 231, "chunk_index": 102, "id": "0dcfe236-84f4-4517-ab9a-cdd010a68bd5", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "keep the puppy in a happy emotional state and focused on you. Then, systematically work your way closer to the scary object. When you are confident about staying at the level where sheʼs happy and focused you can improve quickly. Not that the better your technique at the various exercises, the faster your puppy will improve. Then, systematically work your way closer to the scary object.\n\nBecause fears can progress to aggression, if your puppy\n\nshows fears that donʼt immediately improve when you try these techniques, you should seek professional help. (Look for a qualified behaviorist at www.AVSABonline.org, www.dacvb.org, or www.animalbehaviorsociety.org) For more information on behavior modification of fearful pets refer to Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dog & Cats (book and DVD) at www.lowstresshandling.com.\n\nThe goal of socialization is that the puppy has positive experiences, not neutral or bad ones. Itʼs important to watch the puppyʼs response and note what it is and to also give treats to help ensure the exposure is a success. Hereʼs a checklist that can help you. Download a copy of this puppy socialization checklist at www.drsophiayin.com.\n\nYou can grade the response if you want or just check off\n\nAdditionally a + can be used to denote better progress and a – denotes not as well (e.g. 2+, 2, 2-) such that each score can include three levels of response.\n\nWell, thatʼs pretty much all you need to know to get your puppy off to a perfect start. Since Lucy learned so quickly, she learned a few more things, too. Here are a few more exercises. >>", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 233, "chunk_index": 103, "id": "4d8ef719-3e1c-42bc-819d-e5c84137bfda", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Weʼll start this by using a piece of food to lure Lucy into\n\nthe down position. Then Iʼll show you how to add a verbal cue and a hand signal.\n\nSTEP 1 | Using a food lure: Start with a food lure in your right hand. Hold the lure up to the puppyʼs nose.\n\nSTEP 2 | Then move the treat towards the ground. Move slowly enough so that the puppy keeps her nose on your hand as you lower it.\n\nSTEP 3 | Lower the treat to the ground. Her nose should still be in contact with the treat.\n\nNOTE: At first, many puppies need to receive the treat lure as a reward when\n\ntheyʼre just halfway bent to the ground or theyʼll get up.\n\nSTEP 4 | Slide the treat out: Once the treat is on the ground slide it away from the puppy slightly so that her nose moves forward a little and she has room to lie\n\ndown. Once sheʼs lying down give her the treat and a few additional ones for\n\n7.1.2 Graduate to a hand signal and later a verbal cue.\n\nSTEP 1 | Turning the lure into a signal: Now hide the treat in your left hand.\n\nSTEP 2 | Pretend thereʼs a treat in your right hand.\n\nSTEP 3 | Make the same motion with your right hand that youʼve been making when you used the food to lure her down. Sheʼll follow your hand and lie down.\n\nSTEP 4 | When sheʼs lying down, give her the treat from your left hand.\n\nTo add the verbal cue, say “down” just before you give her\n\nthe hand signal to lie down. Remember that the word must come before the hand signal or she wonʼt pay attention to the word. Also be sure that you donʼt add the verbal cue until she consistently lies down with the hand signal within one second, using the hand signal alone. Otherwise sheʼll learn that the verbal cue means nothing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 242, "chunk_index": 104, "id": "20251472-dd2e-4d0d-b234-825390f5148a", "word_count": 333, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 432 } }, { "page_content": "I added this exercise because for some reason my dad felt\n\nit was very important. He specifically asked me to train a sit from the down position.\n\nFrom down to sit: Hold the treat in your left hand while the puppy is lying down. Put the treat in front of the pupʼs nose (Figure 7.2.1A). Then lift your hand up so that she jumps up into a sit to get it (Figure 7.2.1B). When she immediately goes into a sit consistently when you do this, youʼre ready to switch to using the left hand as a signal instead of a lure.\n\n7.2.2 Graduate to a hand signal and later a verbal cue.\n\nSTEP 1 | Hold your left palm out and hide the treat in your right hand so it doesnʼt distract the puppy. Start with your left hand by your side.\n\nSTEP 2 | Then raise your left hand the way you raised it when you were holding the treat.\n\nSTEP 3 | Reward her once she sits. Because the puppy has moved into a sit so many times to get a treat from your left hand, she should sit up with just the hand\n\nsignal. Quickly reward her with a treat from your right hand so she remains sitting.\n\nNOTE: Most people donʼt give such a prominent sit cue. The reason we are using\n\nthis cue where you raise your arm so itʼs 90° like a right turn signal is that your\n\ndog will be able to see this cue clearly even when she is far away.\n\nIf you want to teach the verbal cue “sit,” just say “sit” right before you give the hand signal so that it will predict the hand signal. If you give them simultaneously, it will take longer for her to learn the verbal cue because it will not predict anything for her.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 246, "chunk_index": 105, "id": "60e327f8-f67c-43dd-aa54-92ae7a857132", "word_count": 310, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 403 } }, { "page_content": "7.3 Training the Down-stay Using the MannersMinder® (a.k.a.\n\nThe only major behavior that most people will want to\n\ntrain but that we have not worked on much yet is the down- stay—although you have started it during some of the other exercises by rewarding the puppy several times in a row for remaining lying down. The quick way to teach a down-stay and to reward dogs while they are calmly lying down is with the MannersMinder® (a.k.a. Treat&Train®). Because the\n\nrewards are activated by remote control you can reward the dog when he is lying down away from you such as on the other side of the room.\n\nThe MannersMinder® comes with a timer function that\n\ntells you when to dole out treats. At first you reward frequently—every several seconds as long as the dog remains lying down. Then you systematically and rapidly increase the interval between treats so that the dog is waiting in a down- stay longer and longer for each treat. Because of the systematic nature of the training protocol and the precise timing that occurs when treats are dispensed remotely, the down-stay can easily be trained within a few days to a few weeks depending on the amount of the dogʼs meal you will use and the type of distractions youʼre working with. Best of all you can do the training while youʼre watching T.V. or working on other tasks.\n\nTraining a down-stay with the MannersMinder® a.k.a. Treat & Train (Premier Pet Products®; www.MannersMinder.net). Jonesy demonstrates a down-stay using the MannersMinder®, an automatic treat dispenser that you can control remotely. This product comes with a DVD with step-by-step instruction for training", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 248, "chunk_index": 106, "id": "89a30683-3feb-4a0f-b352-ad12c5ae1bce", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "dogs to lie down and remain calm in situations where they might otherwise bark,\n\njump, whine or be anxious or unruly. With this program we can teach a basic\n\ndown-stay in as little as a couple of days. With Lucy Iʼll use it to train her to lie\n\ndown on a rug and wait patiently with distractions such as when visitors come to\n\nthe door. Iʼll also use it to train her to do a down-stay while Iʼm training Jonesy or\n\nto reward Jonesy for patiently lying down in one place while I train Lucy.\n\n7.4 Improving Communication by Teaching a Marker Sound or Bridging Stimulus.\n\nSometimes when training dogs and other animals it can\n\ndifficult to get the treat to the animal while or immediately after the animal performs the correct behavior. Because the timing of the reward is late, the animal doesnʼt understand which behavior earned the reward. To improve our ability to communicate the desired behavior to our puppy we can train a marker sound, otherwise known as a bridging stimulus. That is, we can pair food with a unique sound like the click from a toy clicker, or a word they rarely hear, such as “yes” spoken in a distinct, sharp tone. By producing the sound and immediately following with food repeatedly, the puppy will learn that the sound predicts that the food treat is coming. Once this association is established, the sound can be used to tell the puppy exactly when he is performing a correct behavior. The puppy knows that when he hears the sound, whatever he was doing at the time has earned him a reward. In other words, the sound comes to bridge the gap between the desired behavior and the food reinforcer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 249, "chunk_index": 107, "id": "295b2329-a307-4baa-8d36-00d3d718d972", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Clickers are commonly used as markers or bridging stimuli because they have a distinct sound that stand out in the environment. By pairing the clicker with food you can teach the dog that the click sound predicts that theyʼve done\n\nsomething correct and will get a reward. Sounds or words that are indistinct or that\n\nhave been used frequently without immediate pairing with a high value reward\n\nmake poor markers because dogs donʼt notice them or have already learned that\n\nbeen paired with something the dog likes, such as food, enough times that the dog understands that when he hears the sound, it means a food reward is coming.”\n\n7.4.1 Training the marker sound or bridging stimulus.\n\nHow to train the marker sound or bridging stimulus: The MannersMinder® (a.k.a. Treat & Train®) uses a tone as a marker or bridging stimulus. To train Lucy that this tone means a treat is coming, I first put food in the MannersMinder® bowl so she knows that food sometimes appears in the bowl. Once she has figured this\n\nout and readily eats the kibble Iʼm using as treats, I press the remote control so that a tone sounds and the MannersMinder® immediately dispenses a kibble into the bowl. I dispense treats repeatedly at varying intervals, sometimes a treat every\n\ncouple of seconds and sometime treats spaced at longer intervals such as between 5-10 seconds as long as Lucy sticks close enough to the MannersMinder® to see that treats are being dispensed.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 251, "chunk_index": 108, "id": "26b63c97-0b6f-444a-972b-8114c81a9476", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "Within several minutes, even if she is looking away from the MannersMinder®, when Lucy hears the beep, she turns to the MannersMinder® to get her food reward (Figures 7.4.1A and B). You know that an animal understands the association if they are looking away from the MannersMinder® yet immediately orient to and approach the device when they hear the tone.\n\nWhen training the sound-treat association, the interval at which you deliver both can be important. Dogs often learn the sound-treat association best when the sound and food are presented at irregular intervals. If the food comes frequently and at regular intervals, the tone is not important as a predictor for when the food will arrive.\n\n7.4.2 Using the marker to train behaviors efficiently.\n\nMark and reward attention: Once dogs understand this tone-reward association, it is easy to switch to specifically teaching the dog that focusing on you earns\n\nrewards. I demonstrate this training with Jonesy. Just press the remote when heʼs\n\nquiet and looking at you. First reward him immediately when he looks at you. But\n\nwhen the dog is good at this, require that he look at you for slightly longer periods\n\nof attention before you reward him by pressing the remote. This is a good exercise\n\nfor teaching dogs to remain calm and focused on you instead of pawing or barking at the MannersMinder®.\n\nShaping targeting behavior. Once I taught Lucy the tone-treat association, the next step was to teach her to touch a target with here nose. I trained this behavior", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 252, "chunk_index": 109, "id": "abc55acc-6feb-48fb-943d-88495a7582f8", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "through a process called shaping. That is, I started by rewarding a behavior I could\n\nget and then systematically rewarded behaviors closer and closer to my goal\n\nbehavior. At first when I presented the target near her face I sounded the tone so\n\nshe got a treat when she just looked at the target (a red foam ball on the end of a\n\nstick) and upon hearing the tone she would turn back to the MannersMinder® to get her treat.\n\nRewarding the goal behavior. Once Lucy was good at looking at the target, Iʼd only trigger the remote when she stretched her neck to touch the target. Once she\n\nwas readily touching the target with her nose I started requiring she take a few\n\nsteps to touch the target. Here she actually touches the target with her open mouth\n\nand then turns to get her food reward when she hears the beep. If I want her to\n\ntouch with her nose and not her open mouth, I”ll have to reward only touches with\n\n7.4.3 Markers and shaping come in handy for training complex behaviors.\n\nShaping and the use of a marker can come in handy for training many complex behaviors—especially those where the dog may be looking away from you, far away from you, or where itʼs otherwise difficult to get the reward to the animal exactly as heʼs performing the correct behavior.\n\nJonesyʼs karate kick was trained with a clicker as a marker. At first I just clicked and treated when he lifted the right hind leg a little. Then I sequentially click-\n\ntreated higher leg raises and then high leg raises followed by a kick. Without a", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 253, "chunk_index": 110, "id": "0dfa3552-2201-4a92-96d6-4c1149a88f36", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "clicker this trick would have been much harder to train because it would have been\n\nhard to get the reward to him while his leg was still in the air rather than when it\n\nwas back on the ground. As a result he would not have been able to figure out\n\nJonesy also learned to play fetch using a clicker because he was not reliably interested in toys or balls. I started by clicking and treating when he looked at the tennis ball I was holding in my hand. When he could perform this behavior quickly\n\nabout five to 10 times in a row, then I only click-treated when he touched the\n\ntennis ball with his nose. Then with the next sequence of steps I started holding\n\nthe ball lower so that it was closer to the ground. Once he would reliable run and\n\ntouch the ball on the ground, I started click-treating only when he put his mouth\n\non the ball and then later when he grabbed the ball. And finally I started rewarding\n\nfor picking it up and carrying it one step towards me, then, two, then three, then\n\nfour steps, until he got to the point where he could deliver it all the way and drop it\n\ninto my hand. While this seems like a lot of steps, by working in a systematic\n\nmanner, Jonesy was able to learn to fetch in just a couple of days. Thatʼs partly\n\nbecause Jack Russell Terriers are so energetic that they can drill on the same\n\nbehavior many times in a short period. The more repetitions they can get in a\n\nsession (while they are still enjoying the training) the faster they can learn the\n\nbehavior. Thatʼs why many Jack Russell Terriers can learn so many tricks so quickly", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 255, "chunk_index": 111, "id": "5f4ee89e-39ea-415b-afa6-c8423a2aa6a9", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "compared to dogs that move more slowly or get tired sooner.\n\nendless when a bridging stimulus and shaping are used.\n\nPutting toys away. Here Jonesy demonstrates his ability to put his toys away, happily. Dogs who already know to pick up toys or to fetch can learn this behavior\n\nPutting paper in the recycle bin. As a variation on the exercise shown earlier, dogs can easily be taught other useful behavior such as putting paper into the\n\nWell, thatʼs it! The secret to having a perfect puppy in a\n\nI started with an outgoing, playful puppy who loved to jump, nip, and could do so with boundless energy. After a week I had the same outgoing, playful puppy but she automatically sat politely for everything she wanted, walked nicely on leash, was comfortable with being handled for basic care, and directed her play towards appropriate toys and games such as fetch. Although she was still insecure in high traffic environments, she was comfortable around and enjoyed playing with many types of well-mannered canine and human visitors. With continued positive experiences she will continue to improve and with consistent training, her polite behaviors will become a permanent habit, even with my parents.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 257, "chunk_index": 112, "id": "da0f1e19-1828-42a1-b2fa-bc8862aa85ab", "word_count": 201, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 261 } }, { "page_content": "Realistically, Lucy was perfect so quickly because I already knew the techniques for training her and could ensure that all household members and visitors followed the rules. For you, it may take a little longer, because youʼre learning at the same time your dog is. Plus, it may take some effort to train all of the human family members too. Additionally, even with this book, youʼll want to enroll your puppy in at least one series of puppy socialization classes where its easy to find the people, puppies, and environmental set-ups for socializing her. Nevertheless, with what youʼve learned here, you can train your puppy faster than you ever though possible.\n\nOf course, the next question for Lucy is: Will my senior citizen parents be willing and able to follow the same training plan?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "page": 259, "chunk_index": 113, "id": "9c441d11-8272-494b-9b4e-ff590c3dd4bd", "word_count": 134, "book_title": "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days", "book_description": "Guide for perfect puppy in 7 days", "book_filename": "PerfectPuppyin7Days.pdf", "token_count_approx": 174 } }, { "page_content": "Here’s All You Need to Know! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Looking at All Your Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Helping Your Puppy Jump into the Family Groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Understanding your puppy’s point of view . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Raising a puppy in the modern world . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Positively overdoing bonding and socialization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Tackling Training Throughout Your Puppy’s Growth Phases . . . . . . . . 14 Teaching words your puppy should learn and love . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Picking a consistent approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Handling Day-to-Day Frustrations — and More Serious Problems . . . 16 Ensuring a Clean Bill of Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17\n\nCHAPTER 2: Finding the Puppy That’s Right for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Living Your Dream: Pinpointing What You Really Want . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Getting in the right mindset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Considering yourself before you choose your puppy . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Interpreting your answers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Deciding on the age to bring your puppy home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Considering Your Household . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Me and my shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Just the two of us — plus pup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 9, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "03d08bc8-6c46-470c-870c-9973db53d4c2", "word_count": 601, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 781 } }, { "page_content": "CHAPTER 4: Deciding Where to Go to Get Your Puppy . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Searching High and Low for Your Puppy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Finding puppy love on the Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Adopting a pup from a shelter or a rescue organization . . . . . . . . .51 Buying a puppy from a professional breeder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Checking out a home breeder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Avoiding puppy brokers, puppy mills, and pet stores . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Meeting and Assessing Puppies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Finding out what to expect when visiting puppies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Profiling puppy personalities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Testing a puppy’s temperament . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Going for an Older Puppy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Considering the source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Testing older pups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70\n\nLooking to the Months Ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Shopping for the Early Days with Your Puppy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Your puppy’s safe place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Rewards, toys, and self-soothing activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Freedom lines (indoor and out), collars, and early leash skills . . . . 82", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 10, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "2c832cc1-1922-4b46-970b-9a94779428cd", "word_count": 591, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 768 } }, { "page_content": "CHAPTER 7: Establishing Good Habits from the Start . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Preparing for Your Puppy’s Arrival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Puppy-proofing a free-play zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Setting up a food and water station . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117\n\nCHAPTER 17: Maintaining Healthy Habits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Puppy Nutrition 101: Your Puppy’s Changing Dietary Needs . . . . . . . 308 Comparing different types of food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Looking at your puppy’s food options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Evaluating essential ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Interpreting food labels to get more bang for your buck . . . . . . . 315", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 11, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "0ab54606-30de-492c-8ae7-7bc0430ace21", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Understanding Food Allergies and Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Pinpointing allergies to your food and theirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Accommodating special nutritional situations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Keeping Your Puppy Looking and Feeling Tip-Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 DIY: Making bath time lots of fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Brushing made easy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Performing daily care and spot-checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Taking Your Pup for Regular Checkups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Identifying and Remedying Allergies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Spaying or Neutering Your Puppy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Playing for Fun and Fitness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331\n\nTo say that I love puppies would be an understatement. So, when asked to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 17, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "ded21814-e9d0-4e5d-8972-6eaa13e614bc", "word_count": 353, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 458 } }, { "page_content": "write the fourth edition of Puppies For Dummies, I jumped at the opportunity. There has been an explosion of changes in how to raise and train dogs over the past few decades, with fancy terms you’ll read about in a new Chapter 6, “Bonding with Your Puppy Using the New Science of Modern Dog Parenting.” Researchers from across the globe are doing fascinating studies — even some you can get involved with that reveal how dogs communicate and learn best. The good news for trainers who use positive reinforcement and encouragement to teach their students how to behave? Many studies show that dogs learn most quickly in the first months of puppyhood and respond best to training that encourages their focus and reinforces good behavior. Goodbye to the alphacentric approach, where correcting the puppy for what they’re doing wrong instead of teaching them how to act right, is the order of the day. Research has shown what many dog lovers have long recognized as common sense:\n\n» A domineering approach is inextricably tied to the practice of physical\n\n» Electronic collars that buzz, spray, or shock clearly terrify puppies.\n\nAlphacentric training philosophies create fear and (as studies show) don’t train or teach puppies to be friendly, happy, well-mannered family members. Trust me: You won’t find support for that approach in this book.\n\nWhat you will find is a common-sense approach to selecting your puppy, loving hints to help you through those first critical months, and support in problem- solving and training. You’ll find straightforward info in plain English on what to do and how to do it. Nothing more and nothing less — I promise.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 19, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "d3b1d7af-a20f-4346-be6a-03e3a081b3e0", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Even though raising a puppy is also a daily responsibility (and a huge one, at that), it’s like many other projects in life: After you understand how to determine what your puppy is thinking, and after you find out how you can communicate with them effectively and structure your environment to limit your frustrations, the day-to-day tasks and problems immediately become simpler. The comment I hear most often from clients after our initial visit is this: “You are a miracle worker!” But I know that the real miracle is the puppy. Like an interpreter, I just facilitate the communication between the two species.\n\nRaising a child is a big project that is only made easier by reading a stack of how-to books and organizing systems, like mealtimes and potty routines, that eventually become habits. Fortunately for you, puppy raising is nearly identical, with the bonus that, unlike children who take a couple of decades to mature, a puppy matures within a year. Puppies For Dummies, 4th Edition, will help you sim- plify this whole adventure from the onset of choosing a puppy for your family to managing your puppy’s day-to-day needs, training and playing, and dealing with everyday frustrations. Behind every happy puppy is a supportive, understanding, and nurturing family cheering them on!\n\nIf you’re feeling overwhelmed by this project now, don’t despair: This book gives you a whole new outlook, provides easy steps to resolve annoyances, and helps you civilize your puppy in no time flat. In this book, which is meant to be an all-inclusive guide, I walk you through the early decisions — purebred or rescue, low shedding or superfuzzy, big or small — and then provide everything you need to know to raise your puppy right. I’m excited to get started!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 19, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "3246e98d-8a89-47c3-8963-e016bd0721b1", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "While writing this book, I used a few conventions that I’d like you to know about ahead of time:\n\n» To avoid any “puppy gender bias,” I use plural pronouns: that is, they and their, throughout the book. Except for anything that’s strictly related to females or males, you can be sure that the info applies to your puppy regardless of gender.\n\n» Anytime I introduce a new term, I italicize it. » Keywords in lists appear in boldface. Also, when I present a list of steps to\n\nperform, the action you need to take is in boldface.\n\nPlease don’t be stressed by the size of this book. I know, right? Who has the time to read a 400-page book from cover to cover? Of course, you can, but I wrote each chapter as a stand-alone unit and would be just as pleased if you used this book as a quick reference guide. If you’re pressed for time, use the trusty index\n\nguide to find what you need and go there. Don’t need help choosing the right puppy or talking to breeders or shelters? Then there’s no need for you to read chapters that help with those situations. And, though the sidebars contain infor- mation that fascinates me, it’s not Required Reading. Finally, if you’re in a real hurry, you can skip any paragraphs that have the Technical Stuff or Just for Fun icons attached to them.\n\nBottom line? I’m thrilled that you’ve picked my book off the shelf — I’ve written it with you and your puppy in mind. As far as how you read it? That decision is up to you.\n\nHere’s what I’ve assumed about you, dear reader, when writing this book:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 20, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "bbdb457b-7738-4632-b4c7-f7640a384bd7", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "» You know that puppies have four paws and a tail — or at least a stump\n\n» You either have a puppy right now or are considering getting one, but you\n\n» You don’t want to obtain a PhD in training techniques and dog physiology or psychology. You just want the basics on topics such as what supplies to buy, how to train your puppy to perform basic commands, the best dog food to use, how much exercise to provide, and how to keep your pup healthy in general.\n\nIf you fit into any or all of these categories, this book is for you.\n\nThis book is divided into parts, each one having its helpful theme. Here’s a quick rundown.\n\nIn Part 1, you find the scoop on choosing a puppy — big or small, pure breed or rescue, super-young or a little bit older? In this part, I cover lots of typical ques- tions and buyer-beware scenarios to help you make all the right decisions. Are dog\n\nbreeds all that different? What’s with the new designer mixed breeds? Can a pup’s personality be predetermined? Where’s the best place to find a puppy? You will find all the answers and more in this part.\n\nPart 2: Living and Loving Your Puppy: The Early Days", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 21, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "5c900914-9c4f-4fad-aa24-4cf9600e6707", "word_count": 215, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 279 } }, { "page_content": "Everybody loves bringing a puppy home: the buildup, the shopping, the rush of serotonin and oxytocin, the happy love hormones. Few things can beat that! Living with a puppy, especially one that’s just been separated from their mom and littermates, can be a bit of a buzzkill. What should you expect? How should you deal with the barking and whining — especially when it happens in the middle of the night? How do you act when your puppy grabs something you’d rather they didn’t, or chases the cat or nips the kids? You can find all the answers in Part 2. Plus, you learn about the new science of modern dog training, which reinforces techniques I’ve long encouraged. Research shows that puppies, like young children, can pick up routines almost immediately, making those early weeks super-important. In this part, you’ll learn about how your puppy’s needs affect their behavior, why sleep training is crucial for a happy life, and why consistency with friends and family helps to shape good behavior from the start.\n\nWhether you’re starting this book with a little pup or an adolescent, this part of the book speaks to the off-leash wannabe in all of us. Leashes are often hard to wrangle, and no one wants to get hauled around in the name of training, least of all your dog. In this part, you’ll discover how off-leash training is something you can shape at any age with the use of some cool tools and groovy gadgets. As you master lessons, I’ll delve into different training styles to find the approach that works best for you and your puppy — from clickers to target training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "a622f798-71dd-4692-b13c-b0ee16896d6d", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "In Part 3, you’ll explore an array of frustrations that many people experience with their adolescent dogs: This isn’t a pretty stage, no matter what your species! Rather than look at your puppy’s behaviors as good or bad, examine them from your puppy’s perspective. Everything your puppy does has value as it communi- cates their worldview; over the course of this book, you’ll find out how to interpret their reactions so that you can develop a mindful approach to training and resolv- ing stress. You’ll feel proactive and empathetic when dealing with specific issues such as separation stress, noise reactivity, anxiety, and even aggression. The best part is that your relationship with your puppy will grow stronger from working together to resolve whatever issues arise.\n\nYour first choice is whether you want your puppy to learn good manners and listening skills or whether you’d rather condition annoying routines and dismis- sive behavior. You read that sentence correctly: The choice is up to you. If it’s the former, Part 4 is for you. I cannot wait to show you how to encourage your puppy’s cooperative behavior from the start. In these chapters, I go over first lessons (how to teach your puppy to sit, stay, and come) before moving on to more complex routines, like where to potty and how to greet people at the door. (Hint: On all four paws.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "26830b55-8262-4723-926b-1523262e0ed9", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies are a lot like kids: They act well when they feel good. If your goal is a happy, friendly, well-mannered dog, take good care of them inside and out. In this part, you’ll find all you need to know on nutrition, exercise, and grooming. Also, since no one wants to get sick or be sidelined by accident, least of all your dog, it’s important to know the signs and symptoms of an illness and be on the ready should anything bad happen. Part 5 provides lists and quick skills as well as a do-it-yourself doggie first-aid kit to prepare, just in case life ever presents your dog with the unexpected.\n\nLast but not least, in Part 6 I give you ten of my favorite games and ten crowd- pleasing tricks. Enjoy!\n\nYou’ll find icons throughout this book on the left side of the page that point to different sorts of info. Here’s the list of the various icons you’ll encounter:\n\nThis icon highlights useful tidbits and helpful advice — such as how to lift your puppy and hold them just right to give them that loving feeling.\n\nHere is where I get to stress the main points — such as rewarding what your puppy is doing right and responding in such a way that the wrong behavior doesn’t result in more attention.\n\n“Warning, warning!” Need I say more? Don’t skip this one.\n\nThis icon alerts you to factoids and technical information that, though fascinat- ing, is more for the dog-obsessed folks than everyday folks just trying to get a handle on their puppy’s behavior.\n\nI love to have fun, so this is my favorite icon! Though not necessary to learning, these tidbits give you a fresh and fun way to spin requests so that your puppy will use a behavior, like sitting, to get you to throw their toy again and again and again. You can skip these tips, but who’d want to?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 23, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "06544160-145e-41ba-b44a-84afeb910569", "word_count": 324, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 421 } }, { "page_content": "In addition to what you’re reading right now, this product comes with a free access-anywhere Cheat Sheet that offers a ready schedule for housetraining and a list of helpful directions (sit stay, come and nope) for sharing and easy posting on the refrigerator door. To get this Cheat Sheet, visit www.dummies.com and type Puppies For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the Search box.\n\nThe coolest thing about this book is that you can jump in anywhere. It’s a no-rules reference guide whether you’re in the early stages of thinking about getting a puppy or you have one already chewing on your shoelace.\n\nThough you can read the book from cover to cover, feel free to take a quick skim of the table of contents to choose your topic and dig right in. Regardless of where you start, remember this principle and you can’t go wrong: Puppies are a lot like babies. They need to be nurtured but not spoiled, loved but not overindulged. Just like kids, they need guidelines and limits, not unlimited freedom. At the end of the day, you’re the dog parent, and it’s your responsibility to keep your puppy safe. Use the training lessons — mainly formatted in Chapters 10-13 but sprinkled throughout the book — to teach your puppy what words mean, and then use those words to organize where they should go and what they should do in every situation.\n\nThank you for picking up my book and adding it to your library. Everyone needs help sometimes, and raising a puppy is no small task. But with time and informa- tion, things do get easier — even enjoyable. I’ve taken special care to organize this book so that each section teaches you how to successfully communicate with your puppy and raise them to be a wonderful family member, now and always.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "fac7cbb0-1de6-4f83-8edc-3929b51f5bb2", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "Deciding on the right puppy for you and your lifestyle\n\nDiscovering the difference between mixed breed and\n\nLooking for puppy’s in all the right places from online\n\nTesting each candidate’s personality to find one that\n\nChoosing to bring a puppy into your family is one of the more exciting\n\n­decisions­of­your­lifetime —­but­it’s­also­a­little­scary.­If­you’re­feeling­ overwhelmed,­don’t­be­discouraged.­I’ve­written­this­book­to­help­you­no­ matter­where­you­are­on­the­puppy­continuum.­Adopting­a­puppy­is­more­like­ bringing­home­a­baby­than,­say,­a­fish­or­a­hamster,­but­with­a­child,­there’s­ usually a lot more build-up, with months to mull over magazine articles and room­décor.­And­even­the­infant­stage­is­pretty­tame —­not­so­with­puppy.­Unlike­ other pets, puppies bond and engage with you from the minute you meet them, and­they­depend­on­you­like­a­child­from­that­day­forward.­In­return­for­your­ kindness,­they­offer­you­their­unconditional­love­and­enthusiasm­every­day­of­ their­lives.­Dogs­are­like­toddlers­in­their­adoration­and­attentiveness,­delighting­ in every interaction and weaving their way into every social interaction that goes on­in­your­household.\n\nPuppies and toddlers have even more similarities: Both are nonverbal and reliant on­ you.­ Both­ depend­ on­ you­ to­ shape­ and­ fulfill­ their­ everyday­ needs,­ from­ learning­where­and­what­to­eat­and­drink­to­figuring­out­where­to­sleep­and­go­ potty.­A­puppy­matures­a­lot­faster­than­a­baby,­so­that’s­a­plus­(the­first­year­of­a­ puppy’s­life­equals­about­20­of­a­human’s),­but­a­dog’s­emotional­capacity­paral- lels­a­2-­or­3-year-old,­so­they­never­leave­for­college,­wreck­the­car,­or­max­out­ your credit cards!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 26, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "36ae6e43-d21c-4213-838a-f9d2befca3ba", "word_count": 133, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 172 } }, { "page_content": "Civilizing­a­puppy­is­a­project­to­be­approached­mindfully —­and,­fortunately,­this­ book­makes­it­a­positive­and­fun­experience­for­everyone.­This­first­chapter­lays­ the­groundwork­for­what­lies­ahead.­With­these­guidelines­in­hand,­you’ll­have­no­ trouble­getting­through­the­first­year.\n\nDogs­come­in­a­lot­of­shapes­and­sizes.­Until­now,­you­may­not­have­given­dog­ breeds­and­personalities­much­thought.­Instead,­you­may­have­believed­that­the­ only characteristics separating one pup from another were coat color and body size.­Unless­your­plan­is­to­choose­a­dog­who­complements­your­couch­cushions,­ you­have­to­know­a­little­bit­about­the­types­available.\n\nBefore­you­consider­the­differences­between­dog­types,­in­Chapter 2­I­help­you­ peek­into­your­lifestyle­to­get­a­handle­on­what­it­is­you­want­from­your­relation- ship.­Puppyhood­is­a­quick­window,­lasting­about­a­year,­but­dogs­live­a­long­time­ (generally,­10­to­14­years,­depending­on­the­dog­breed­or­breed­mix),­so­it’s­impor- tant­to­think­about­your­life­now­as­well­as­5­to­10­years­from­now.­For­example,­ your­heart’s­pick­may­be­a­high-energy­breed­from­the­Sporting­group,­but­if­ you’re­at­work­most­of­the­day­and­you­prefer­“vegging­out”­to­jogging,­this­ puppy­will­lose­their­appeal­when­you­find­them­climbing­your­walls­or­curtains.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 28, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "baa5198d-3545-478d-8ee1-3e8afb71b9ce", "word_count": 30, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 39 } }, { "page_content": "In­Chapter 3,­I­explore­different­types­of­dogs,­both­purebred­and­natural­breed­ blends­(also­known­as­mutts or mixed breeds)­and­what­are­known­as­designer mixes (two­breeds­mindfully­bred­to­create­a­new­breed —­a­Chiweeny,­Pomski,­or­Gold- endoodle,­for­example).­A­quick­peek­at­the­concept­of­hybrid vigor will help you to appreciate­a­dog­who­looks­and­acts­unique.­I’ll­also­help­you­explore­the­ideal­ home­environment­for­different­types­of­dogs­as­well­as­the­necessary­exercise,­ training,­and­socialization­commitments­of­each­one.\n\nAfter­you­have­an­idea­of­the­personality­you­want,­you­can­consider­breeds.­Over­ time,­hundreds­of­known­breeds­have­been­developed­worldwide.­In­the­United­ States,­ the­ breeds­ are­ grouped­ into­ seven­ categories:­ Herding,­ Hound,­ Non- Sporting,­Sporting,­Terrier,­Toy,­and­Working.­Each­of­these­breeds­has­specific­ characteristics that allow the dogs to withstand the environment of the lands of their­original­descent.­Each­breed­has­a­defined­look,­temperament,­and­interest­ that­continues­to­get­passed­down­from­generation­to­generation.\n\nIn­Chapter 4,­I­show­you­how­to­start­your­search.­Talking­to­various­rescue­orga- nizations­and­breeders­is­a­project­in­and­of­itself.­To­help­you,­I’ve­created­a­list­ of­questions­that­are­important­for­you­to­ask —­and­I­also­fill­you­in­on­the­kinds­ of­questions­you­may­be­asked­as­a­potential­parent­to­their­dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 28, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "a8e99010-f5d2-477c-be3c-22d4bd4bc8aa", "word_count": 53, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 68 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies,­ like­ children,­ have­ distinct­ personalities.­ In­ Chapter 3,­ you’ll­ find­ a­ ­temperament­ test­ that­ you­ can­ take­ with­ you­ when­ checking­ out­ a­ particular­ puppy.­Visualize­the­ideal­characteristics­you­value­in­a­dog­and­list­them­in­the­ margin.­For­example,­do­you­want­a­dog­who’s­devoted­to­making­you­happy­and­ who’s­needy­for­attention­and­delighted­to­do­your­bidding?­Or­are­you­more­ ­comfortable­with­a­puppy­who’s­affectionate­but­independent?­Maybe­your­heart­ is set on a timid puppy who needs patience, coaxing, and love to come out of their shell.­Believe­it­or­not,­you­can­make­accurate­behavioral­predictions­such­as­these­ when­puppies­are­just­eight­weeks­old.\n\nA puppy’s instinctual skills, with a few exceptions, are no longer necessary to human survival. But please don’t let any puppies in on this secret. Their skills are their life’s talent, and employing them gives their lives a sense of purpose. No sheep to herd? The neighborhood kids will do. No snow in Savannah? Pulling a skateboarder will satisfy a Siberian husky. No ducks to retrieve? A tennis ball will do just fine. Dogs love to work, and they can’t quell their passions just because you have a late meeting. So, be sure to take the breed’s job instincts into account when picking a pooch, and always make time to indulge them.\n\nYou’ve­been­looking­forward­to­bringing­your­puppy­home­for­days,­weeks,­and­ perhaps­even­years.­Few­events­in­life­are­as­exciting­as­adopting­a­puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 29, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "1fed5bb7-d750-45e0-bd50-ab6c8fc2f206", "word_count": 162, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 210 } }, { "page_content": "Regardless of your mood, this initial trip can be scary and overwhelming for your puppy,­who­may­be­separating­from­their­original­family­for­the­very­first­time.­ Plan­ahead­by­organizing­both­the­trip­home­and­your­arrival.­Make­your­puppy- supply­purchases,­which­are­listed­in­Chapter 5,­well­in­advance.­Also­set­up­your­ pup’s­ room­ before­ they­ come­ home,­ and­ explain­ your­ routines­ to­ family­ and­ friends.­Having­a­plan­puts­your­mind­at­ease,­which­will­help­your­puppy­survive­ this­transition­stage.­Your­puppy­will­bond­to­you­and­their­new­life­in­no­time,­ though­the­first­few­days­can­be­jarring­for­both­of­you.\n\nThe­most­important­task­to­focus­on­in­the­early­months­is­socializing­your­puppy­ to­people,­places,­and­normal­stimulations.­As­far­as­developing­good­habits­early­ on,­your­puppy­will­thrive­on­consistency­and­predictability,­and­so­will­you.­In­ Chapter 6,­I­explore­the­new­science­of­modern­dog­training­and­describe­what­ science­has­proven­about­living­with­dogs.­Researchers­used­to­scoff­at­us­crazy­ dog people, reminding us that dogs were incapable of reason and emotion; now those­researchers­have­come­full­circle.­Studies­show­that­puppies­and­human­ toddlers­have­a­tremendous­amount­in­common:­Now­it’s­the­academics­who­are­ telling­us­that­dogs­think­and­feel,­and­will­mature­to­the­capacities­of­a­3-to- 4-year-old­child.­This­chapter­helps­frame­out­just­how­capable­and­eager­your­ puppy­is­for­learning­and­how­making­the­most­of­puppyhood —­by­investing­in­ play,­socialization,­and­training —­will­reward­you­for­a­lifetime.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "e4322c99-270a-456e-acfa-c922a174f150", "word_count": 61, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 79 } }, { "page_content": "In­Chapter 6,­I­also­focus­on­describing­your­puppy’s­daily­needs­and­how­to­ structure­a­schedule­around­them.­Knowing­how­your­puppy­likes­to­organize­ their­day­takes­the­guesswork­out­of­this­experience­and­humanizes­many­of­their­ communication­skills­and­dependency­issues.­Chapter 6­points­out­just­how­much­ a­human­toddler­and­a­puppy­have­in­common —­from­a­routine­bathroom-and- sleeping­schedule­to­predictable­stages­of­development.­In­that­chapter,­I­help­you­ structure a realistic day, which must include secluded nap times, and bring some regularity­back­into­your­life.\n\nTraining­and­conditioning­your­puppy­starts­from­the­moment­they­step­into­your­ home.­From­first­introductions­to­family,­friends,­and­other­pets­to­conditioning­ and­bonding­in­the­first­days­and­weeks­you­have­them­home,­Chapter 7­will­guide­ you­through­these­first­days­and­experiences.\n\nYour­first­goal­regardless­of­the­age­your­puppy­is­when­you­bring­them­home­is­ to­teach­them­early­manners —­from­where­to­go­to­the­bathroom­to­how­to­greet­ family­and­friends­when­they­come­through­the­door.­Conditioning­good­habits­ from­ the­ start­ doesn’t­ happen­ magically,­ of­ course,­ and­ in­ Chapter 8­ you’ll­ discover­how­learning­to­listen­to­your­puppy­makes­teaching­basic­habits­easy­ and­fun.­(Hint:­You­use­your­eyes­to­read­their­body­language.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "adf30be9-b6bd-4d1f-ac99-2a8235b5854b", "word_count": 47, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 61 } }, { "page_content": "If­you­have­kids­or­grandkids,­having­a­puppy­will­add­a­new­dimension­to­your­ months­ahead.­In­a­puppy’s­mind,­kids­are­often­pigeonholed­as­other­puppies­and­ can­be­perceived­as­rivals­for­toys,­food,­and­attention.­Chapter 8­offers­a­proactive­ (rather­than­reactive)­approach­to­raising­a­puppy­with­children —­from­phrases­ to­use­to­groovy­games­and­activities­to­play.­By­organizing­fun­activities,­you’re­ giving the child license to both control and enjoy the puppy while the puppy learns respect­for­everyone­who­walks­on­two­legs.\n\nIf­you­want­a­well-rounded,­gentle-mannered­dog,­follow­this­secret­tip:­Overdo­ socialization­in­puppyhood.­Go­overboard­with­socialization,­even­more­so­than­ with­ training.­ Expose­ your­ puppy­ to­ everything —­ objects,­ surfaces,­ sounds­ (inside­and­out),­places,­and­people­of­all­ages,­races,­sexes,­and­sizes.­Expose­ your­pup­to­other­animals­and­pets,­too.­(Until­your­puppy­is­inoculated,­surround­ them­with­healthy,­friendly­dogs.)­Even­changes­in­weather­patterns­must­include­ mindful­handling.­If­your­puppy­is­startled­or­concerned,­a­soothing­reaction­from­ you­may­be­misinterpreted­as­mutual­fear.­To­teach­them­how­to­manage­them- selves,­reassure­your­puppy­with­your­confidence­and­direction.­Knowing­how­to­ calm­them­when­they’re­stressed­can­make­the­difference­between­a­pet­who­rolls­ with­ the­ changes­ and­ one­ who­ locks­ up­ emotionally­ or­ reacts­ defensively.­ Chapter 9­gives­the­lowdown­on­socializing­your­pup.\n\nTackling Training Throughout Your Puppy’s Growth Phases", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 31, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "7daaf075-5c3f-4798-a611-3c553e3191bd", "word_count": 64, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 83 } }, { "page_content": "Here’s­just­some­of­what­you­have­to­look­forward­to­as­your­puppy­grows­through­ their­first­year­(turn­to­Part 3,­Chapter 10-13­for­more­on­training­during­each­ stage):\n\n» Taking Baby Steps (8 to 16weeks): Infancy is a curious time for a puppy.\n\nThey’re encoding your home and all the people in it for the very first time. This is where you get to make a positive impression, shape their personality for the better, and socialize them to sound and daily routines that they’ll discover in your home. They’re needy and dependent on you, so make the most of this time together. Chapter 10 will guide you!\n\n» Teaching Your Pre-Adolescent Puppy (16 weeks to 6 months): Before the terrible twos start, you may be convinced that you’ve adopted an angel. Then it happens almost overnight: Your puppy falls from grace. If it’s any consola- tion, all their mischief is a wonderful sign of normal development. Your puppy is growing up. Most people notice more confidence during this stage and less of a help-me attitude and more of a can-do spirit. Embrace it. Chapter 11 shows you the way!\n\n» Surviving the Teenage Months (6 months to 9 months): Okay, by now\n\nyou’re getting a good glimpse of your puppy’s lifelong personality quirks. Are they needy, confrontational, strong-willed, dependent, focused, obstinate? Your puppy is maturing faster than you can keep up. Now is the time to start fun, positive training routines and to increase games that encourage interac- tion. Fortunately for you, bad habits are easy to phase out during this stage if you can remember to stay cool. Puppies are still eager to please during this stage and are motivated to behave to get what they want — from treats to toys and attention. Chapter 12 tells you what you need to know.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "ef6d2dd4-440d-4385-b7d4-9110448da70a", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "The hardest behavior to control during your puppy’s first year isn’t your puppy’s — it’s yours. Anger and frustration will spell your ruin — your puppy won’t understand you, and they’ll react with confusion and, possibly, defensiveness.\n\n» Striving for Off Lead Control (9 to 12 months): At this point, for the most part you can see the light at the end of the dark tunnel. During this phase, if you’ve been consistent with training, you’ll often have a super puppy — devoted, responsive, and mindful. Well, that is to say, most of the time. Sometimes your almost-adult puppy still tests their independence; sometimes that incorrigible 3-month-old puppy reemerges, and they’re up to their old tricks.\n\nDoes­committing­the­next­year­to­train­a­puppy­sound­like­a­project?­Well,­you’re­ right —­it­is.­After­you­commit­to­the­role­of­your­puppy’s­parent­and­teacher,­ they­can­learn­all­they­need­to­know­throughout­the­first­year —­from­where­to­ potty and what to chew to polite greeting manners and how to conduct themselves in­a­crowd.­They­won’t­learn­these­things­overnight,­however —­like­school­for­ children,­puppy­training­is­a­stage-by-stage­process.\n\nTeaching­your­puppy­commands­is­similar­to­teaching­English­as­a­second­lan- guage.­Though­your­puppy­can’t­understand­sentences­or­phrases,­one­spoken­ word —­paired­with­a­posture­or­routine —­will­make­your­puppy­feel­directed,­ connected,­and­safe.\n\nHere­are­a­few­of­the­commands­you­can­find­in­Chapter 11:\n\n» Follow: This command says, “I’ll lead the way. Follow me!” You use this one", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "3778c5e0-2e73-4223-b0c3-57ea7b9bf712", "word_count": 161, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 209 } }, { "page_content": "» Stay: This command is all about self-control. Saying “Stay” tells your puppy to relax and be patient. After you’ve perfected some early lessons at home, you’ll be able to use it everywhere you go.\n\n» Come: A must-have item in your command vocabulary, this one calls your\n\npuppy back to your side. You must teach this command positively if you want your puppy to listen.\n\n» Leave it: Most dogs think their middle name is No, so try to avoid that one. To teach your puppy to leave stuff alone, you need to teach them a word or short phrase that says \"That’s not for you.\"\n\nYou­can­find­many­gadgets­to­help­you­convey­and­emphasize­your­directions,­ from­ clickers­ and­ target­ sticks­ to­ training­ collars­ and­ leashes.­ Keep­ in­ mind,­ though, that if you randomly try these objects or mix and match your approaches simultaneously,­you’re­likely­to­confuse­your­puppy.\n\nRead­Chapter 5­to­find­out­about­equipment­for­your­home,­and­read­Chapter 13­to­ discover how various leashes and training gadgets can help shape your puppy into a­trust-worthy­companion.­If­you­have­family­members­involved­in­your­pup’s­ training,­ have­a­group­discussion­ to­ensure­ that­you’re­all­on­the­same­page.­ Consistency­is­oh-so-reassuring­to­your­puppy.\n\nHandling Day-to-Day Frustrations — and More Serious Problems", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "2a4fba68-32a7-4912-868a-0c93bb814043", "word_count": 166, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 215 } }, { "page_content": "In­the­chapters­in­Part 4,­I­dissect­all­areas­of­frustration,­from­housetraining­(in­ Chapter 14),­nipping­and­jumping­to­the­more­serious­infractions,­such­as­aggres- sion.­Just­remember­that­many­of­your­puppy’s­naughty­behaviors —­the­ones­ that­frustrate­you­to­tears —­are­fun­and­enjoyable­to­them.­Even­though­this­book­ doesn’t­take­the­place­of­professional­advice­when­your­situation­is­dire,­use­this­ book­to­shed­light­on­Everything­Puppy —­from­a­wagging­tail­and­puppy­breath­ to­adolescent­defiance.\n\nAt­times,­you­and­your­puppy­just­don’t­see­eye-to-eye:\n\n» You’ll want them to come and be near you when they want to\n\n» You’ll want them to chew on their bone, and they’ll favor an item perfumed\n\n» They’ll think digging is fun — sometimes indoors and other times outdoors. » Barking will be their way of alerting you that visitors are approaching, whereas\n\n» There will be nights when you’re exhausted and your dog will want to play.\n\nHabits­are­formed­at­many­an­aggravating­moment,­leaving­you­stranded­and­in­a­ vicious­cycle.­Ironically,­this­cycle­is­your­creation.­Sure,­it­feels­like­you­must­do­ something­when­your­puppy­tears­off­with­your­napkin,­but­screaming­is­perceived­ as­prize­envy­(you­want­what­they­have)­and­only­guarantees­a­repeat­performance.­ Think­about­it:­If­cruising­the­counters­brings­you­back­into­the­room,­your­puppy­ will­repeat­this­tactic­no­matter­the­consequences.­In­Chapter 15,­I­help­you­to­ understand­your­puppy’s­mindset­and­try­a­whole­new­approach­to­resolving­your­ differences.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "b8e57e76-7461-434a-b27a-9c0f8718906a", "word_count": 93, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 120 } }, { "page_content": "Of­course,­more­serious­issues —­what­I­call­red-flag issues — warrant concern and reaction.­Aggression­comes­to­mind,­as­does­separation­anxiety,­excessive­bark- ing,­and­destructive­chewing.­I’ll­go­over­these­issues­in­Chapter 16.­Bear­in­mind­\n\nthat­a­puppy­exhibiting­this­behavior­isn’t­happy;­your­corrections­won’t­lighten­ the­intensity.­Find­a­more­cheerful­approach,­modify­your­behavior,­and­help­your­ puppy­develop­a­more­cheerful,­go-with-the-flow­attitude.­You’ll­all­be­a­lot­more­ relaxed.\n\nA­sensible­reason­is­behind­every­puppy­behavior,­whether­it’s­counter­surfing,­ separation­anxiety,­or­jumping­on­guests.­Investigate­and­understand­why­your­ puppy­is­reacting­in­a­certain­way.­Then­juggle­the­variables­to­meet­their­needs­ as­you­redirect­them­to­more­appropriate­activities.\n\nIf­you­take­care­of­the­inside­of­your­puppy,­the­outside­can­better­take­care­of­ itself.­Chapters 17,18,­and 19­help­you­make­pertinent­healthcare­decisions,­bal- ance­your­puppy’s­diet,­stay­on­top­of­their­daily­hygiene,­prevent­parasites­and­ disease, and understand their healthy vital signs so that you can react calmly in an emergency.\n\nSpaying­or­neutering­your­puppy­(see­Chapter 17)­is­crucial.­It’s­a­responsible­ action, and everyone must stem the growing overpopulation, for which wide- spread­euthanasia­seems­to­be­the­only­other­solution.­Even­though­controversy­ abounds­when­it­comes­to­all­sorts­of­issues­involving­spaying­or­neutering —­ appropriate­ age,­ competing­ surgical­ choices,­ and­ after­ effects,­ to­ name­ just­ a­ few —­knowing­the­facts­will­give­you­the­ability­to­choose­your­course­of­action­ wisely.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "5a8646f9-0366-49fd-8f6b-c0333d4231ea", "word_count": 70, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 91 } }, { "page_content": "A­sick­puppy­is­like­a­toddler:­When­they’re­ill­or­troubled,­your­puppy­is­unable­to­ articulate­it­in­words.­They­will,­however,­respond­in­ways­that­would­be­obvious­ to­another­dog.­In­Chapters 18­and 19,­I­help­you­decipher­your­puppy’s­signals­so­ that­you­know­how­to­keep­them­healthy­and­happy­and how to respond to them when­they’re­ill­or­in­case­of­an­accident.\n\nReading­these­chapters­doesn’t­take­the­place­of­having­regular­check-ups­or­con- sultations­with­a­veterinarian.­Your­veterinarian­has­a­medical­degree­and­may­ recommend­tests­or­blood­work­to­determine­a­specific­ailment.­So,­use­these­ chapters to educate yourself on the signs and symptoms to watch for and how to read­what­your­puppy­feels­when­they’re­unwell.­Sharing­this­information­with­ your­veterinarian­is­more­than­invaluable —­it­can­save­your­puppy’s­life.\n\n» You be you: How your temperament should affect the type of puppy you choose\n\nGetting a puppy leaves people in one of two camps: bursting with excitement\n\nor completely overwhelmed. Your puppy plans may be in the exploratory stage, or you may be actively campaigning for a furry bundle of joy. Wherever you are emotionally, the truth is that this may be the only time in your life when you can choose a family member — so make the most of it by picking a puppy who fits in.\n\nWhether your home is big or small, you live alone or with others, or you’re the president of a company or a stay-at-home mom — some type of puppy is perfect for you. Puppies are faithful to the people they love, no matter their lifestyle or living conditions, but you can make your future puppy happier and better behaved by considering a few aspects of your habits and way of life before choosing a breed.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "f7c77ac3-e852-49e8-abc6-6cdf0bd305da", "word_count": 198, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 257 } }, { "page_content": "In this chapter, I walk you through several important considerations when choos- ing a puppy to suit your lifestyle. By thinking thoughtfully about these topics, you can start to narrow in on the best puppy for your home. (And, after you develop a sense of your ideal dog, the breed discussion in Chapter 3 helps you hone in on just the right pet.)\n\nLiving Your Dream: Pinpointing What You Really Want\n\nEveryone wants a perfect dog: a well-mannered, loving companion who gets along with the family and is a joy to be around 24/7. But the reality is, perfect dogs aren’t born that way — they develop from good-enough puppyhoods. As with children, your dog’s behavior is a direct reflection of the time you’ve spent condi- tioning their cooperation and socializing and training them during their puppy- hood phases. Throughout this book, I outline the effort that goes into coaching your puppy into a well-balanced, friendly, responsive dog.\n\nThe best place to start isn’t even with the puppy — it’s with you. If you’re in the early stages, just considering what type of dog will best fit into your lifestyle, use this chapter to lay out all your options. Use the following questionnaire to help you focus on what you want and determine the type of puppy that will fit in best.\n\nWhen forming the mental picture of your perfectly suited companion, don’t ask yourself what sort of puppy you want. Instead, ask what sort of dog you want. All pups traverse their first year through the typical phases, from the curious, nip- ping early days to the defiant adolescence and dismissive teen, but they spend the bulk of their lives in a mature state that’s largely predictable based on breed- specific characteristics.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "6f2478da-49ff-4eb2-a451-17964be701a4", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "The first step in choosing your forever puppy is to select a dog breed or mixed- breed dog type — select it down to the size, coat type, and exercise requirements that will mesh with your personality and lifestyle. Most people find an 8-week- old Golden Retriever puppy irresistible, and you may melt at the sight of a shar-pei puppy, but fast-forward ten months: Will your likes and dislikes line up with the adult versions of these puppies?\n\nTo improve the likelihood of a happy and lasting relationship, think about what you’re looking for in a dog. Big or small? Active or less energetic? Dependent and responsive off-leash or independent and spirited? There’s a dog for every descrip- tion! The questionnaire in the next section helps you narrow down your wants from the many possibilities.\n\nLiving with a dog is more like having a toddler than sharing your life with a cat or containable pet. A hamster or chinchilla can fill their minimum daily exercise requirements (MDER) by jogging on an exercise wheel as he basically lives and dies happily within the confines of their living space. A dog will go insane left in a cage all day. Puppies are sociable creatures whose main focus in life is food and fun. Because they’re reliant on you for basic care and well-being (just like a tod- dler), you’ll be correct in thinking of yourself as a dog parent versus a dog owner or master.\n\nHow much time your puppy-soon-to-be-dog requires for exercise fun, grooming, and attention depends largely on these three factors:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "08b937ea-3393-4e8a-9f34-b309a97f4f56", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "» The breed or mixed breed: If you haven’t chosen a breed, let this chapter\n\n» Early imprinting before bringing them home: Imprinting is a fancy term for how puppies are influenced by the way they are treated in the first six to eight weeks of life: Chapter 4 helps you find and dialogue with breeders and rescue associations so that you can gauge their puppies’ early life experiences. » Your puppy’s training and socialization: I get to these topics in Part 2 of\n\nThe following questionnaire helps you get a handle on choosing a breed, rescue, or mixed breed that has the best chance of living up to your expectations. Consider the next decade plus a few years: Do you have hopes for the future? It’s time to be honest with yourself and your family so that everybody wins!\n\nSure, a 6 a.m. run with your well-trained companion sounds great on paper, but if you’re addicted to the Snooze button, you’ll quickly grow to resent a puppy who just can’t be shut down.\n\nOn the other hand, if you’re an athlete, psyched to have a running companion, spend time choosing a breed or mix that will be eager to keep up with you. Got young kids? A protective breed of any size, bent on alert barking every time some- one ventures near the front door, may not be the best choice if your home is the hub of weekly PTA and after-school get-togethers.\n\nThis questionnaire is split into three subsections to better help you gain perspec- tive on yourself and your choice in selecting a breed or mixed breed. If you’re committed to caring for a puppy and meeting their needs, and if you can muster up the patience to deal with typical puppy phases, you’re certainly on your way to a lovely, lifelong bond with your puppy. Good luck!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 39, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "77e03be5-6da4-4cd5-a44d-0570b57b59aa", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "Now that you have all this information about what you want, what should you do with it? In this section, I help you analyze your answers to the questionnaire. As you read this section, make a mental sketch of your ideal dog. Your answers will help you get some ideas of the type of dog that will suit your lifestyle in the long run. Keep the questionnaire in mind (make a copy if you need to) as I walk you through the description of the various breeds or mixed breeds in Chapter 3.\n\nEven though your dog’s appearance shouldn’t be a chief motivating factor in your breed selection, it’s still important. You may have strong preferences based on aesthetics, such as what tail or facial features make you smile, and you can narrow down the breeds you look at based on those criteria. You may also be concerned with practical matters — what care is involved in owning a curly or thick-coated dog. Questions 1 through 5 guide you along and help you narrow your decision.\n\nCertain features affect the cost of owning a dog, and that consideration may be an important one for you. When you’re considering your dream dog, consider hidden perks and drawbacks tied to the appearance of each individual breed: For example, breeds with nonshedding hair will save you from fur- covered furniture, but they do require regular trips to the groomer. Long-, thick-, or curly-coated dogs also need professional grooming periodically. And you may love the look of bigger dogs, but they cost more to feed than small or tiny dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "f45f83a7-414f-4140-8604-c47fc38927b0", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "The look you prefer in a dog may also have health implications. Various breeds tend to have specific health considerations that you’ll need to be mindful of and research in order to prevent. For example, short-snouted breeds are beyond ador- able, but they’re prone to skin irritation and respiratory difficulties. Giant-size breeds have shorter life spans than other dogs.\n\nI often note the similarities between puppies and children, so if kids make you uncomfortable, think carefully about whether you’re ready to take on the chal- lenge of raising a puppy. And, if some of the other questions concern you — for example, if you don’t want to have to change your schedule or train an unruly puppy — you may want to consider not getting a dog at this time in your life. Wait for a dog until your schedule frees up some more.\n\nDay-to-Day Behavior: Thinking about your dog’s energy and attitude\n\nThe next part of the questionnaire gets into the meat of the matter, considering dogs’ personalities, behaviors, and exercise requirements.\n\n» Questions 6 and 7: These questions target the essence of your dog’s\n\npersonality. Some breeds are fiercely self-contained and independent and need little human direction in order to shape and reinforce their behavior. Other dogs watch you closely and can’t seem to make a decision without weighing your opinion. And some are interactive, in-between breeds that choose to follow you when they can but don’t destroy the furnishings if you go out to do errands. What appeals to you: A dog who needs you desperately (for example, a Shetland sheepdog or a Cavalier King Charles spaniel) or a dog who’s content with time apart (such as a Cairn Terrier, a Rhodesian Ridgeback, or an Airedale)?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "a3ed81da-9a0e-4730-b375-1aac21002c4f", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "» Question 8: The amount of exercise you’re able to give your new pooch should be a key factor in choosing a dog breed. If you’re honest here, this question helps you discover what energy level you can match. Even though an active breed may sound dreamy, if you can’t consistently provide plenty of exercise for the next decade, cross it off your list. A high-energy dog who is pent-up, isolated, or underexercised can become destructive, clingy, and impulsive. These behaviors will no doubt be frustrating for your family, so be sure you can provide what your dog needs.\n\n» Questions 9 through 12: How involved in your life would you like your dog to be? If socializing is high on your priority list, choose a breed that was bred to take direction and follow humans around instead of a breed that was bred to guard, hunt, or protect your home. Although any dog will enjoy being near you 24/7, breeds that were designed to work independently of man are more mentally equipped to handle periods of isolation.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "98b1bebf-743f-417b-9ab9-ec29b7014dbe", "word_count": 178, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 231 } }, { "page_content": "» Questions 13 through 15: These questions pinpoint why you’re getting a dog. Does the thought of a dog’s protection appeal to you? Do you like being alerted to outside noises, or do you want a companion who just rolls with the comings and goings of the outside world? Are you interested in a playmate for your children? Make a big mental note about what your goal for the pet is. » Questions 15 and 16: These questions dive deep into the time commitment issue. And yes, Question 15 relates to time commitment as well as core reasons for getting a dog. Training a dog of a protective or hunting breed to bark only at the right things and for a limited period of time are key consider- ations throughout their first year. The amount of time you need to commit to training and shaping your puppy is directly determined by the breed and the personality of each individual puppy. Strong, independent, and dominant puppies need more structure and stern reinforcement than passive, depen- dent, and sweet-natured puppies.\n\n» Question 17: Grooming is another time consideration. All dogs need a good brushing occasionally, but long-, thick-, curly-, or wavy-coated breeds need a commitment (daily brushings) and periodic professional grooming, which may become costly!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "b004df50-6ee8-40e4-a379-ae09ec96e306", "word_count": 213, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 276 } }, { "page_content": "» Question 18: Sharing time with your puppy is a healthy way to establish trust and friendship. Consider your favorite pastime and find a puppy who will grow up to be in the same groove as you. For example, if you’ve got a fetish for Frisbees, you have to decide whether you want a dog who fetches them relentlessly or one who shows no interest (so that you can actually play a civilized game with friends or family). A dog bred to course fields all day herding, hunting, or retrieving waterfowl will grow insanely restless and destructive if they’re cooped inside all day. A companion dog, however, will enjoy the serenity of calm, predictable activities and will need far less exercise to stay on an even keel.\n\n» Question 19: Introducing a new puppy to other pets in your household can\n\nbe tricky, so take this question seriously. If you breed prize-winning rabbits or own cats, avoid breeds genetically programmed to kill them. If you have another dog, choose a breed that will mesh with their traits and personality. Other pets? Even those in glass cages can elicit your dog’s drive to chase and capture. If you have any other pets, consider a breed with a more chilled reaction to other animals.\n\n» Question 20: If you have other considerations, think through them in terms of the future. For example, if you’re planning to have a child in a couple of years, do you want a protective dog to stand guard, or a cheerful spirit to welcome your child at the door?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "c7e2d6c6-ee06-41ef-bb7e-6fb3a9aad35a", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Questions 21 through 30 target you and your lifestyle. They’re meant to simply make you think for a minute about your ability and readiness. Getting a puppy is like falling in love: The lines between your commitment and your own needs aren’t always clear. Sure, now you may say you’ll groom your long-haired puppy every day, but what happens when you miss a day and notice they’ve become a knotted mess? Can you afford a groomer? Are you really willing to commit to this daily task?\n\nYou should also consider how well you handle stress. Puppies can be annoyingly impulsive and scattered. Are you going to need medication to get through the early years, or can you roll with it? If you’re a neat freak, pick a dependent, composed breed that will (hopefully) have greater respect for your wishes.\n\nI often note the similarities between puppies and children, so if kids make you uncomfortable, think carefully about whether you’re ready to take on the chal- lenge of raising a puppy. And if some of the other questions concern you — for instance, you don’t want to have to change your schedule or train an unruly puppy — you may want to consider not getting a dog at this time in your life. Wait until your schedule frees up some more!\n\nI often note the similarities between puppies and children, so if kids make you uncomfortable, think carefully about whether you’re ready to take on the chal- lenge of raising a puppy. And, if some of the other questions concern you — for example, if you don’t want to have to change your schedule or train an unruly puppy — you may want to consider not getting a dog at this time in your life. Wait for a dog until your schedule frees up some more.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "0e59894e-fa3a-431c-97dc-764862b75757", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "The age you bring home a puppy is an important consideration. The earliest age you bring home a puppy should be eight weeks old, although this should not be the first time your puppy is around people. You will learn a lot about choosing a rescue puppy or breeder in Chapter 4, but for now remember that your puppy should be raised inside and around people and household noises from the moment’s they’re born. You may hear the term impressionable or the even fancier term imprinting, which relates to how often your developed puppy was handled and exposed to different noises and stimulations. Although you may think that your puppy should grow up in a bubble during their early weeks, you would be wrong. Studies show that puppies exposed to the chaos of everyday life and handled by friendly people are better able to adapt to life with you when they come home.\n\nIf you bring home a young-young puppy (younger than 12 weeks of age), they’ll need a lot of socialization, supervision, and consideration. You’ll need to continue to expose them to lots of sights and sounds, bringing them out in a carrying case or on leash after your veterinarian says it’s safe to do so. (More on this adventure in Chapter 9.) Little puppy bladder muscles aren’t fully developed; their teeth are falling out at a rapid pace, they’re unsure of themselves, and, in short, they can be overreactive to everyday occurrences, spelling out hyperexcitement or distress. If the thought of midnight potty runs leaves you feeling cool to the idea of raising a young puppy, perhaps you’d be better suited to adopting an older puppy or dog. Puppies older than four months begin to have better bladder control and are well through their nipping and teething phases, so you may have an easier time with them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "bcd0f0f0-25dc-4def-8e99-462270b9527f", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "If you like the idea of getting an older puppy (between four months and a year, for example), make sure you do a thorough background check, paying close attention to the type of social experiences your candidate had during the first critical months of life. Find one that has been raised inside a house and around lots of people and other dogs. The first six months of a dog’s life is a critical socialization period, where your dog either grows comfortable of their surroundings or wary of new experiences. If you adopt a little puppy, you have control over this time and can shape your puppy’s life experiences; if you adopt an older puppy, make sure they’ve had the right type of social experiences to fit in with your lifestyle.\n\nAs far as where to go to find an older puppy, start by visiting a local shelter or perusing rescue organizations online through sites such as www.petfinders.com or www.adoptapet.com. Shelters are filled with older puppies and dogs, and you can easily find rescue clubs for specific breeds on the Internet or through a local kennel club. (In the United States, www.AKC.org is a good place to start.) Some- times a breeder may hold on to a puppy longer for various reasons, such as an adopter backed out, the puppy displayed show potential, a puppy is returned, or a puppy is held for medical reasons. If this option sounds promising to you, ask the same essential questions I list in Chapter 4, such as where the puppy was raised during their critical imprinting stage (from birth to four months old) and whether they are housetrained and socialized. Your puppy cannot change their early influ- ences and you do not want to get stuck with a puppy who has spent their whole life in a kennel or living outside.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "c7f38ca9-0eeb-4980-b6fc-fca4477586ab", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "The dynamics of your household will affect how your puppy adjusts to their new lifestyle. Are you living alone, or are other people, kids, and/or pets at home with you? Consider your current lifestyle: your routines, your schedule, the demands of your home life. Are you expecting? Retiring soon? These are questions you should ask as you begin the process. And don’t forget that dogs live a long, long time (8 to 12 years on average; some, even longer), so you need to consider the big picture. For example, though you may be single now, are you envisioning marriage and children? If so, get a breed or mixed breed that will groove with the chaos and taunting of young children. Where are you now, and where do you think you’ll be five or even ten years from now?\n\nChildren add a lot of pizazz to anyone’s life. Your furry, 4-legged child is no exception. If you’re half of a newly married couple eager to title your puppy “our first child,” you’ll have to socialize your puppy extensively with babies so that they don’t feel displaced when you welcome your second (human) child someday.\n\nYou’re single and free and have few responsibilities to tie you down. Even though the constant companionship of a puppy may sound dreamy, it’s a major respon- sibility and one you’ll have to shoulder 100 percent. When bringing a puppy into your life, you’ll suddenly become a parent of sorts. With that responsibility comes all the commitments and demands that properly raising a puppy requires. If you dig sleeping until noon, forget it. Your puppy will have you up before dawn and", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "f8c18b05-5f2f-45b8-a001-b5527d07fa48", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "often in the middle of the night for several weeks. If the joy of sitting at the cafe for hours at a time tops your list, cross it off or forget about getting a puppy. Most cafes frown on inviting in anything but the human species, and your puppy will not sit still for hours at a time. Walking, grooming, and feeding your puppy all require a mindfulness that leaves your carefree days in the dust.\n\nIf you’re truly up for the challenge, remember that your puppy will be your responsibility for a decade or more. If you plan to share a household with someone eventually, socialize your puppy well so that they won’t get their hackles up when that special someone sweeps you off your feet. Also, think about whether you may have a family of your own someday. If it seems likely, choose a breed that enjoys children, and start socializing your puppy with kids from the get-go. (Flip to Chapter 9 for more on puppy socialization.)\n\nIt’s just you and your honey, but a puppy makes three. Owning a puppy together is your first true test of cooperation. Raising a puppy is a lot easier with two people to share the responsibilities, but consistency is a key factor. If the two of you join forces, following similar guidelines for structure and training, your puppy will mature quickly and thrive in the consistency. But if one of you wants the puppy to feel at home on the furniture and eat from a dish at the table and the other person prefers a more structured approach, your puppy’s worldview will be skewed, and they won’t know which rules apply or when.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 47, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "897bcce5-7b2b-4c2f-a367-4687d8ad3aca", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "To avoid arguments, discuss ahead of time how you’ll raise this puppy and which rules make the most sense for your lifestyle and future situation. Have a heartfelt talk with your partner — ideally, before bringing your puppy home. Be sure to discuss the following topics:\n\n» What are your separate visions and hopes for adding a dog to your life? » Where will the puppy sleep? » How will you share responsibilities, from feeding and walking to exercise and\n\n» What are your feeding philosophies, from kibbles in the bowl to handouts\n\n» How much money will you apportion to training, grooming, and maintaining\n\nYour puppy will live and love most serenely in a household where you can both agree.\n\nIf you and your partner are retired empty nesters, now may be a terrific time to get a puppy, because you’re probably home more often and have time to be attentive to your puppy’s schedule. However, remember that a young puppy’s needs can be quite demanding. If you already completed the 4 a.m. diaper-changing routine and you’d rather skip these experiences than relive them, consider an older puppy who has been in a supportive environment or one whom the breeder is willing to socialize and train for you. Also, pay close attention to the exercise requirements when choosing a puppy. You need to ensure that you and your soon-to-be-adult dog are a solid match.\n\nIf you’re getting a puppy to raise with your young child, you may suddenly feel like you have twins (except that one is slightly furrier than the other). Raising a puppy with children younger than the age of 5 is a tremendous undertaking, and it’s one that often creates more stress than it’s worth.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 47, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "f1243bf6-70a9-41be-a0e7-34c269f3ac9e", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "Until the ages of 5 to 7, children have trouble grasping others’ feelings — whether the others are people or pets. Though a tight squeeze may signal love from your 3-year-old to you, it can instill panic or frighten a young pup. A squeezed puppy may feel trapped and bite defensively, even if under normal circumstances they wouldn’t react this way. This puppy can mature into a dog with an innate fear of young children or into a dog who’s immediately tense in their company.\n\nIf you have a needy toddler, postpone getting a puppy for at least a couple of years. Your child needs all your attention to develop a strong sense of self. A puppy will pull you away from your parental duties and rival the toddler for your attention. This situation is almost guaranteed to cause some headaches. Introduce the puppy after your child is more emotionally steady and is also excited and ready for the addition.\n\nIf you’re convinced this is the right time to add a puppy to your family, consider the option of an older puppy who has been well socialized to children during their first few months. Find a 6- to 10-month-old puppy who has been given up for reasons such as a move or human allergies to the puppy. After they’re past the intense nipping phase, puppies are less likely to think of the kids as littermates, also known as siblings. As a bonus, an older puppy has better bladder control and may already be completely house-trained.\n\nAre you ready to take the plunge? Flip to Chapter 8 for tips on raising kids and puppies together.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "2005caad-1bc7-47a0-a73d-f03efbb9a8d6", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Got kids older than 5 years old? I’d guess that at some point they’ve begun lobby- ing for a dog as a holiday or birthday gift with the plea, “We’ll take care of him ourselves. Please?”\n\nIf you feel yourself about to cave, realize that no matter how much your children promise to take part, the puppy will always be your responsibility. Kids can’t be expected to remember everything. Many kids still have to be reminded to tie their shoes or flush the toilet. Even though they may take part in the daily responsibili- ties, you won’t be able to relax on the sidelines. You’ll be the coach, the cook, and the social director for your children and your new puppy.\n\nYour best bet is making the puppy a fun family project from the start. Involve the whole family in all the early decisions, from what breed type and personality to choose to where the puppy should eat and sleep. Encourage your kids to read this book. Activities like walking, training, and grooming the puppy may fall into your hands, but if you make those activities look like fun, you may have your kids clamoring to take part. The greatest joy is seeing your children parent the puppy. Only yesterday they were the ones in diapers!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "85819b4c-b6b2-428c-9a17-58aae49a4dff", "word_count": 216, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 280 } }, { "page_content": "With all the chaos and comings and goings of a family with children, I caution you against protective, or guarding, breeds, especially if your home is the hub of a lot of activity. These breeds may suffer from career stress when trying to keep track of all the activity in your home, and they may subsequently lash out at the unsus- pecting children. Unless you can dedicate your family to a consistent and exten- sive training program, stick to rough-and-tumble, ready-for-play breed or mixed-breed types who accept everyone as long-lost friends. If you end up choos- ing a breed who is home proud and stranger wary, spend loads of time socializing and training them how to act at the entranceway, to ensure that your next decade isn’t spent running interference.\n\nIs your house a zoo? Do you run the risk of creating a dog pack in your living space? Sharing your life with many animals can mean a harmonious existence — or a complete nightmare. How you plan and introduce and treat each pet are the dominant factors here.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "7dcf50e3-affd-4c03-b8cb-13482874c13b", "word_count": 179, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 232 } }, { "page_content": "When considering adding a puppy to the household, you can’t leave travel out the ques- tion. Do you enjoy the flexibility of flying out on a moment’s notice? Does your career pull you away for days at a time? If you’re nodding your head yes, think through what that means for your puppy. Do you have friends or family members lined up who wel- come the responsibility of a puppy and can tolerate the adolescent mischief that strikes puppies from the ages of 7 to 11 months? Or can you afford to pay someone to kennel your puppy or dog or to stay in your home while you’re away? Kenneling a dog can cost between $15 to $100 each day, depending on where you live and what extra bonuses you purchase to embellish your dog’s stay, such as extra walks, training lessons, or deluxe suites. Perhaps you’ll want to take your puppy along with you. Bear in mind that any change in schedule, caregiver, or location will upset your puppy’s routine and may result in hyperactivity, nervousness, or backsliding in training (including house-training).\n\nIf you already have a menagerie, look for a breeder who has exposed his or her puppies to other animals at a young age. If the breeder had cats and you also have cats, your puppy may think they’re a cat! With a little food, fun, and positive encouragement, you can encourage a strong friendship to develop. Choosing a puppy with the right temperament also influences how well they will be accepted into your existing group.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "dfc56b16-04ad-41fe-a1a0-e33a45a6005f", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "If you’re adding a dog to a household of other critters, spend a long time searching out a breed that isn’t genetically programmed to corral, maim, or kill those other critters. Even though your Siberian husky may accept a bunny rabbit in a hutch, your growing puppy may not be able to curb their impulses when Hopper comes out to play with the children.\n\nDo you have an older dog or a multitude of other paws parading through your kitchen? Even though most dogs play well with other dogs when introduced prop- erly, few relish the relentless chaos and interaction of a young pup. As your puppy matures, a strong relationship may develop. However, some dogs would prefer to remain your only pet. Imagine if your significant other brought in a new, younger version of you to keep you company. If your dog can’t get enough of you, adding a puppy may not be their first choice. For more tips on introducing a puppy to your resident pets, flip to Chapter 7.\n\nIf you’re trying to decide which breed is compatible with your dog, put yourself in their paws. Two Golden Retrievers can chase balls all day and wag their tails at everyone in your neighborhood. A Golden Retriever and a rottweiler, on the other hand, are a combination similar to oil and water. By nature, rottweilers are stoic, serious-minded, self-contained dogs who are mindful of their surroundings. A Golden Retriever is friendly, engaging, impulsive, and passionate about new experiences. Though I’m sure some exceptions exist, bringing these two under the same roof will be anything but relaxing for the dog, the pup, or the members of the household. Think about both the breed you have and the one you’re thinking of adding, and make sure that, at the end of the day, they have enough in common to coexist.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "480a6231-20cd-45ce-a779-9df0d4785108", "word_count": 310, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 403 } }, { "page_content": "Personality is also a factor. If you coexist with a sweet, gentle dog and then bring home a dominant, bossy puppy, be aware that the new pup will likely lord over your resident dog in no time, which is sad to see. After all, you know who came home first. A bossy puppy may rule your roost in the end, regardless of house order or your wishes. However, you can simplify your life by choosing dogs whose personalities mesh.\n\nChapter 3 Browsing Breeds and Rescues: Choosing One That’s Right for You\n\nSure, almost all puppies love dog biscuits and a scratch behind the ears, but\n\nthe similarities end there. If you’re new to dogs and puppies, you may be surprised to learn that even though they’re all built pretty much the same, each one has its own personality, and each one faces the world in unique ways. Some thrive on human interaction; others prefer an independent lifestyle. Some love the general mayhem created by small children, whereas others find it less than thrilling. Some see houseguests as long-lost friends, and others see them as potential enemies. Some dogs cherish quiet, solitary times; others eat your house if you come home too late. What sounds good to you? Fortunately, you can choose with reasonably good predictability!\n\nIf researching the right dog for your lifestyle sounds overwhelming, you’ll love this chapter. In moments, you’ll be in the know after reading advice that’s stream- lined and tailored just for you. In the pages ahead, you’ll learn the difference between mixed-breed, designer-mixed-breed, and purebred dogs, as well as where to find them. If you already know what type of dog you want, you can", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "56004ba0-2049-496f-ab9f-4908e32090b5", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "reference this chapter for clues to where to find your puppy, or flip ahead to Chapter 4 to get tips on temperament testing your potential candidates and how to finesse a conversation with a breeder or rescue staff. First impressions do count — the more you know, the more confident you’ll feel. Meanwhile, use this chapter to take one final look at just how a puppy’s breed or mixed-breed traits will impact your life now and in the future.\n\nGetting a puppy is no short-term thrill. In fact, the thrill is relatively short-lived. As your puppy grows, you’ll be responsible for all the care, love, and training of a developing dog who will share the next decade-plus with you and enrich your life in many ways. Use this chapter to prepare yourself for the adoption process.\n\nFiguring Out Whether You Want a Purebred, Mixed-Breed, or Designer Dog\n\nThe first decision you need to make is whether you want to adopt a dog from a reputable breeder or from a shelter, an online site, or a rescue organization. Pup- pies, no matter the size and coat type, are nearly identical in terms of their natural instincts (to chase, explore, sooth pain or frustration and alert to distractions) and daily needs (to eat, drink, sleep, play, and eliminate). But the similarities pretty much end there.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "9fe0d82c-ee87-469a-a519-caee04d27e1d", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "The biggest difference between adult dogs, aside from their size and weight, are their interests and interactive needs. Big dogs need more exercise outdoors and may require more investment in time and energy to handle their impulses to chase and explore than would a small dog with limited or no access to going outside. That said, all dogs need attention and involvement, and each one is excited to learn new words, games, and fun tricks like a toddler. (You’ll find more on the importance of teaching, socializing, and positively conditioning your puppy to all your life has to offer in Chapters 8 & 9.)\n\nThough dogs are one of the most varied species on the planet (thanks to people tinkering with their mating choices), they are still the same on the inside. The tiniest little teacup-size puppy, weighing less than one pound, will have similar thoughts, emotional capacities, and reasoning abilities as a 20-pound giant puppy of the same age, especially in the first four months of life. You could even mate the two — although I wouldn’t recommend it.\n\nDogs come in all shapes and sizes. Unfortunately, the sizes aren’t as simple as “big” and “little.” The following table can help you figure out how big large is and how little small is — just in case you ever need to know. The measurement is from the floor to the top of the dog’s shoulder: These figures represent adult dog sizes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "cebf70b3-4086-47e5-acf3-9d281c82d2e9", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "When you’re first starting on your puppy finding journey, you may discover much arguing and much unnecessary animosity between people who advocate adopting a rescue or random mixed-breed dog and those who are comfortable adopting a purebred or designer-mixed-breed dog from a reputable breeder. Each will have valid points that may tug at your heart, but where you get your puppy and how you chose to raise them is your decision (to be made with your family, if you have one). Raising a puppy is a huge commitment, one just below raising a child, so do it right. This chapter educates you on the difference between the choices of rescu- ing a puppy and buying one from a breeder.\n\nChoosing the breeder route versus the rescue route\n\nWhen you purchase a purebred dog, you’re buying into a multigenerational breed- ing effort. Individuals, known as breeders, devote their lives to matching dogs in their never-ending quest to produce healthy, conformationally sound, and emo- tionally consistent puppies. That’s a good deal for you if you’re the one purchas- ing a puppy.\n\nA puppy bought from a breeder costs money; a shelter, transfer, or abandoned puppy costs far less. Here’s the reason. Breeders are individuals whose only focus is to raise a specific breed of dog — or to design a specific mix of breeds, such as a Labradoodle or Maltipoo — to produce healthy puppies. These breeding\n\nprograms find the healthiest parents for their puppies and ensure that the puppies they produce have a head start in socializing and training before you even bring them home. Your money is paying for that service.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 55, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "1a6816a2-7bd8-4291-9bba-8fa05a57a8d9", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Consciously raised puppies have been shown to be less agitated and stressed than other puppies who may be experiencing the sounds and stimulation of indoor liv- ing for the first time. This is not to say that you cannot condition these pups to life as you live it, but you’ll need to invest a lot more time upfront, especially if your puppy is wary or defensive of new experiences.\n\nDo you have the time and presence of mind to socialize a puppy who is unfamiliar with new experiences? If not, are you willing to pay a trainer or puppy daycare center to do extra socialization for you? If not, seek out a reputable breeder or find a shelter or rescue organization who has raised your potential puppy with its birth family to be sure that their early experiences were crafted from the start.\n\nOf course, you will have a lot to do after your puppy comes home (see the chapters in Part 2), but early social experiences with home and family life must be crafted to condition your puppy to roll with the punches, so to speak. That’s what takes extra know-how and time if your puppy has had no experience before you adopt them.\n\nIf you decide to take the purebred dog route, remember that well-respected breeders are worth their weight in gold. These individuals start socializing and handling their puppies from the second the puppies are born so that, by the time you pick up your puppy (around eight weeks), they’ll be familiar with human handling, being restrained, and living life indoors.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "43bc9f77-709c-459e-8145-e6227626a49b", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "When choosing a breeder, keep in mind that some are better than others. How can you tell? For starters, good breeders will have as many questions for you as you do for them and will insist that you sign a contract that includes health and behavior guarantees. This document also insists that you return the puppy to the breeder should anything happen that causes you to rehome them. (To learn more about what qualifies a good breeder, flip to Chapter 4 and find a list of their qualities.)\n\nWhat are some other differences between a purebred and a mixed breed? Purebred dogs cost more — between $600 and $6,000. (The high end of that range is rare, but some championship show dogs and unique designer-mixed-breed dogs can fetch this price).\n\nMixed-breed dogs, also known as random breeds or mutts, are created when pure- bred dogs (or other mutts) mate with another breed or mixed-breed dog. This dog will have a random mix of traits from two or more parents. No two mutts are ever alike in look or personality.\n\nJust as capable of love and devotion as purebreds, mixed-breed puppies often happen by accident when people don’t spay or neuter their dogs and then forget to contain or watch their dogs. Because this often happens in parts of the world where leash laws and spay-and-neuter ordinances aren’t reinforced, many of these “oops” litters are uploaded to sites like petfinder.com or adoptapet.com or transported to shelters or adoption agencies where there’s a bigger need for pre- cious “adoptables.” The bottom line? A mixed-breed dog is every bit as delightful as a purebred dog and is, some argue, healthier mentally and physically by virtue of hybrid vigor.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "ef414bfa-822e-46f6-bb28-d9bf289761a0", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "The term hybrid vigor refers to a mixed-breed dog’s gene pool. Though the theory has been questioned, it claims that you get a larger range of possible traits by matching two completely different breeds.\n\nPurebred or designer-mixed-breed dogs generally offer more predictability regarding their looks and interests, which can be both a plus and a minus, as you’ll soon discover. A random mix will have a more blended look and feel, with certain qualities of either parent more dominant than others. Finding a breed that’s predisposed to a trait or look you admire, or figuring out which breed types you’d prefer in your mixed-breed puppy, takes much of the guesswork out of assessing the puppy’s developing look, behaviors, and needs.\n\nThe designer-mixed breed is the latest craze to hit the dog world. To create a designer-mixed breed, breeders mindfully mate two purebred dogs to create a new, unique breed. This idea began with an attempt to create hypoallergenic seeing-eye dogs by mating standard poodles with Labrador retrievers. The result- ing dogs were coined labradoodles, and though they didn’t catch on as seeing-eye dogs, the craze caught on in the public sector. Now breeders have created designer mixes of every shape and size, and the list of designer breeds is nearing 100. Table 3-1 shows just a few of these fun new breeds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 50, "id": "e3b56483-2db8-4078-9033-6ca572cc752a", "word_count": 222, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 288 } }, { "page_content": "These designer dogs often cost much more than purebred or mixed breeds, to the tune of $2,000 to $6,000. Are you wondering how a breeder can get away with selling these mixed breeds at such high prices? Some are in it just for the money, following current trends and selling their puppies online to any buyer. Other breeders are as serious about their lines of designer breeds as breeders of single breed lines, making the same effort to choose healthy parents with health clear- ances and stellar temperaments to create puppies with these same qualities.\n\nFor example, the puggle (a pug-and-beagle cross) has a longer snout than the pug, which is genetically healthier, hands down. Most owners hope that with this cross, personality-wise, the beagle’s scent-chasing obsessions will be toned down and that the marginally higher trainability of the pug will seep in.\n\nIf you’re considering a designer breed, you can’t exactly be sure of what you’ll get. A purebred dog’s size, weight, and interests can be predicted. A mixed-breed dog, designer or not, has a random mix of either trait in no particular order. If you’re thinking of buying one of these fun and fancifully named breeds, make sure you like both mixes — you can end up with the look of one and the personality of the other.\n\nEverything about your puppy is predetermined by the combination of traits avail- able from each parent. The dog pros would say that each puppy has its own, unique genetic inscription — for the coat color and the tail type right down to the sound of their barks and their reactions to strangers. Just as humans are pairings of their parents’ traits, so are dogs. When similar dogs are bred consistently over many generations, the puppies will begin to look and act like their parents. Each set of", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 58, "chunk_index": 51, "id": "52c8b105-2c92-4187-aae7-a269e00dc7e1", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "dogs having these same traits, or genetic inscriptions, is classified into groups called breeds. When dogs of different breeds get together on their own to create a litter, their offspring will have a random blend of traits from both parents.\n\nBecause purebred dogs have a limited number of genetic bundles available to them, their appearance may not vary much from generation to generation. A West Highland white terrier, for example, is always white, with little variation. If this breed mated with a black-and-tan cocker spaniel, however, the puppies would have varying coat colors. Because the coat types of those two breeds are also different, each mixed-breed puppy would come out with its unique look.\n\nBecause purebred dogs have a more limited pool of genetic choices, health-related considerations can often be passed from parent to puppy: Some examples are hip or elbow dysplasia; chronic skin, eye, and ear conditions; heart murmurs; and eyelid malformations. Because mixed-breed dogs have a larger pool of genes to work with, they have more random occurrences of these ailments and, some would argue, are healthier for it. In Chapter 4, you learn the right questions to ask potential breeders (or rescue organizations, if they know the parents) to ensure that your puppy’s parents have clearances on every one of them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 52, "id": "370cc5eb-8228-4c19-8034-8134af1c8048", "word_count": 214, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 278 } }, { "page_content": "Now it’s time to select your chosen puppy. Finding one that’s best suited to adapt to your lifestyle and family comes down to discovering the breed or mixed-breed whose worldview is most similar to your personality. Are you hardworking, sporty, sensually oriented, feisty? Finding a dog with qualities you can relate to is easier than you think. The first step is to get a better handle on the term purebred, a term lots of people use without really understanding what it means.\n\nPurebred dogs are a relatively new phenomenon on the dog evolution trail. Having lived alongside us for over 14,000 years, the mindful breeding of dogs began only a few hundred years ago. Until that time, dogs generally reflected the landscape of where they lived: short-coated dogs in the hotter climates, thicker-coated dogs in the northern hemisphere, sure-footed dogs in the mountains, and so on.\n\nOnce people figured out that they could mix and match dogs to produce puppies of similar size and temperament or to suit their fancy, they began to pair dogs to serve their individual needs. Farmers bred dogs to guard or herd their flocks; merchants used dogs to move their produce or deliver goods from one town to the next; and hunters developed breeds to retrieve or to alert to their chosen\n\nquarry (a fancy term for a defenseless animal such as a bunny, bird, or fox). Breeds were created for many other purposes too, from border patrol to dog racing to mere cuddling. Dogs have been bred to do so many tasks over the millennia that scientists view dogs as integral in our species evolution.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 53, "id": "02284f96-935e-4ddd-8b20-9d50fb002b2a", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "More than 320 breeds are now registered worldwide. These days, being a purebred dog is like belonging to an exclusive club: Only dogs with similar looks and inter- ests get in. Although most breeds are no longer asked to do the work they were developed for, fanciers continually devote themselves to breeding and selling puppies that reflect their traditions.\n\nChoosing a specific breed enables you to predict the size, weight, and interest of your puppy. Selecting a one-of-a-kind mixed-breed puppy, and predicting or discovering the various breeds that combine to create them, allows you to make accurate descriptions about their interests and energy level as an adult dog.\n\nWhen researching a breed, mixed-breed, or designer-mixed-breed, try to meet at least three adult dogs of the same breed or mix-breeds. All puppies are cute and adorable, but they grow up in the blink of an eye, so make sure you like the look and personality of the dog your puppy will become.\n\nWhether you’re considering a purebred, mixed-breed, or designer-mixed-breed, take a good, hard look at your lifestyle now and project out five to ten years. How might a certain breed’s or mixed breed’s interests and energy level play out in your home?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 54, "id": "140dfbb3-4c9e-448f-bba5-3fb1d942d3a7", "word_count": 202, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 262 } }, { "page_content": "With hundreds of different dog breeds and millions of mixed-breed combinations out there, it’s hard to keep them all straight! To remedy the confusion, dog fanciers founded breed clubs whose job it is to track litters down to each puppy: Think of a gigantic family tree, doggie style. Various countries have parent clubs that not only register dogs but also organize get-togethers (known as dog shows) and sporting events to highlight different breeds’ form and functionality. In the U.S., this not-for-profit club is known as the American Kennel Club, or AKC. The club is also responsible for defining how dogs should look, move, and act (known as the breed’s standard), and it recognizes dogs who come closest to the organization’s ideal.\n\nThe AKC, as well as other breed clubs — the Canadian Kennel Club, the Nordic Union Kennel Club, and the original Kennel Club located in the United Kingdom, for example — organize the different breeds they recognize into various subgroupings that highlight similarities between the breeds. In the following sections, I give you a quick description of the seven breed groups listed by the AKC.\n\nA proactive lot, dogs in the Sporting group were bred to help man sustain them- selves by flushing (scaring out of hiding) birds and retrieving the ones that their masters shot. In this day and age, you’re unlikely to shoot your supper from the sky, but don’t tell that to your dog. Born with a fetching fetish, these breeds thrive on an active and involved lifestyle and won’t retire just because you’re well fed. No ducks to claim or birds to point out? Your slippers will do, and so will the pigeon perching on the windowsill.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 55, "id": "a7bb5247-3165-42bd-b46c-22b46813b7f2", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "When these puppies are exercised, directed, and included, no group is more happy-go-lucky and accepting of life’s random chaos. But when they don’t get enough playtime or training, they can be hyperactive and destructive.\n\nEven though the loyal and cheerful dogs in the Sporting group have well-earned reputations as patient family pets, they need both mental and physical stimulation. They can’t cope with long hours of isolation; coupled with a lack of exercise, this isolation fuels anxiety. An unhappy Sporting dog is destructive, hyperactive, and impulsive. This isn’t a good mix — especially for your couch and end table.\n\nThe dogs in the Hound group are a happy lot with a 1-track mind; their fascination with hunting propels them through life and allows them plenty of opportunity for employment. Though you may have no interest in hunting a fox, chasing deer, or treeing a raccoon, your hound puppy probably will.\n\nOriginally teamed in pairs or packs, each hound was prized for their instinct to follow game without depending on human direction. As a result, a hound’s friendly manner and pack mentality result in a dog who enjoys family life yet is generally independent enough to entertain themselves.\n\nThe Beagle, Greyhound, Irish Wolfhound, and the Foxhound are in this group.\n\nThere are two types of hound: those that hunt by following the scent of their chosen pre, and others who trail animals by sight — commonly referred to as Scent hounds and Sight hounds. Both should be kept on a lead when outdoors, because their instinct to chase hasn’t been bred out of them and you can’t outrun them. In addition, you should socialize both to common household pets (like cats, birds, and rabbits) at an early age; otherwise, they may confuse them for lunch!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 56, "id": "549148a9-ad0b-4159-89b3-8d66daa8ba13", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "The breeds in the Working group vary in chosen occupation, but their work pas- sion unites them. Whether participating in guarding, pulling a cart or sled, water retrieval, protecting, or performing police work, they’re a task-oriented group.\n\nThe breeds in the Working group may be large, but if they’re nurtured with con- sistency, training, and exercise, they can adapt to any lifestyle with ease. When living in the country, these dogs must be contained to keep them from roaming off in pursuit of some self-assigned task. They can adapt to apartment dwelling when given daily walks and an occasional romp in the dog park.\n\nCarefully consider your situation before choosing a guard dog. Raising children and dogs is challenge enough. Territorial breeds can overstate their job as guard- ian, protecting your home and children against all intruders — including friends, extended family members, daily workers, and even other children. These dogs quickly suffer career stress in busy houses. If your heart’s set on a territorial breed, structured training is a must.\n\nThe Herding group breeds were developed during the agricultural age, when their herding skills were prized by caretakers of sheep and cattle across the globe. Man put great effort into fine-tuning these herding instincts when developing the breeds in this group. Even though these skills are no longer a priority, each dog’s behavior in the home is reflective of them. For example, a dog bred to herd sheep is often seen herding children. If properly socialized as to not view your home and the people in it as field and flock, these dogs — trained and exercised — are deeply loyal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 57, "id": "dee546da-3ba3-4821-a7dc-d44e7e2e1961", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "If the herding breeds aren’t given an outlet for their impulses, they can develop obsessive, patterned behaviors, like circling a table or chasing fast-moving tar- gets such as automobiles or joggers. For herders that are understimulated, their pacing creates a well-trodden path in a yard or field. Herding dogs must be trained, lest they adopt their people or children as sheep to protect. Cattle dogs are serious-minded, strong, and stocky dogs who can develop repetitive behaviors such as nipping your (or your children’s) moving ankles.\n\nThe breeds in the Terrier group were designed to either track down vermin in barns or fight other animals for sport. Determined and tenacious by design, they work independently and don’t prioritize human direction. Because they’re spir- ited and spunky and not easily impressed or persuaded, terriers aren’t a great match for control freaks. Even though they thoroughly enjoy human companion- ship and a good romp, they must be confined or leashed to prevent roaming or hunting.\n\nDon’t be surprised if your terrier lifts their lip as you reach, or anyone else reaches, for their bone or food bowl. It’s a natural reaction called spatial aggression, and it’s similar to what a young child does when he doesn’t want to share a favorite toy (although, hopefully, your kid doesn’t growl). Other dogs known for this behavior include some Working breeds, hounds, and certain toy breeds. For suggestions on overcoming this dilemma, refer to Chapter 18.\n\nAlthough terriers traditionally bred to fight other animals have a combative his- tory, most of the breeding lines have all but extinguished this impulse. Extensive socialization can ensure a friendly attitude toward other dogs and pets.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 58, "id": "5c13e28b-319e-4895-8b0e-09a06ef9185c", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "Though the practice is rare, some owners still use fighting breeds for sport. These owners usually don’t neuter the dogs (because doing so would diminish their fighting tenacity) and often neglect them. Because of this mistreatment, these dogs may have many litters of puppies, and their genes can seep into the domes- ticated gene pool, possibly causing the breed to be more aggressive. When choos- ing a dog from this group, trace its history or talk openly with the breeder or previous owner about their breeding philosophy and the temperaments of the dog’s parents.\n\nThe lovable little miniatures in the Toy group have been bred down from larger dogs. Even though they can be cuddle companions, many still have their original breed characteristics firmly set. Take the miniature pinscher (or min pin), for example. A distant relative of the Doberman pinscher, the min pin is an astute watchdog who sounds visitors’ arrival before they even knock at the door.\n\nWhen assessing specific breeds, research their ancestry. Even though their size is different from their ancestors’ size, their genetic impulses may be undeniably similar. Don’t pass on training them simply because of their toy-like appearance.\n\nConstant affection without direction results in a Napoleon-like complex, which is reflected in behaviors from chronic barking to marking and, often, aggression. You’d be surprised at how much damage a 5-pound dog can inflict!\n\nToy breeds are fragile by design. Even though certain breeds are stockier (the pug and the Cavalier King Charles spaniel, for example), they’re all tiny — especially as puppies. Be mindful of this puppy around larger dogs and young children: Tod- dlers can easily hurt or overwhelm the puppies if they mistakenly confuse them for a stuffed animal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 59, "id": "b9706524-18d2-4cc4-947e-b4033e15087b", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "The Chihuahua, Pekinese, Maltese and Toy Poodle are in this group.\n\nThe Non-Sporting group is the catchall group. When a dog’s orientation is too varied to fit anywhere else, it ends up here. Dalmatians, for example, were bred to follow horse carriages over great distances and, when parked, to lie under the car- riage and guard both the contents and the horses from vagabonds. The Keeshond, a Norwegian breed, was bred to accompany men on sea travels, cheerfully alerting them to any commotion. Though each dog’s ancestry is varied, they’re threaded together by their devoted participation in human affairs.\n\nWhether you’re considering a pure breed or a mixed breed, consider what type of dog sounds good to you. Do you relate to the more serious nature of dogs in the Working group? Many breed books explore the different breeds in depth. Does the zest and intensity of a terrier excite you? You’ll have many choices!\n\nbreeders, shelters, pet stores, the Internet, or elsewhere\n\nIf you’re at that stage in the puppy-searching process where you have a pretty\n\ngood handle on what type of dog you want to live with, it’s past time for you to finally find your forever puppy. The thing is, you’ll soon discover that you can find puppies to purchase everywhere — on the Internet or from a breeder, shelter, rescue organization, or pet store. They even sell puppies on craigslist! So, where’s a future puppy owner to start?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 60, "id": "64d89ba2-f6cb-48e5-b7c5-796d312e09ff", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "I recommend that, before you start surfing the Internet for that perfect puppy, consider the differences between well-respected dog breeders and those brokers who may not have your or your future puppy’s best interests in mind. And, if your heart is set on a rescue dog, consider the differences between highly rated dog shelters and those rescue organizations that often have more dogs and puppies to manage than they can care for adequately. Because your puppy is the one relative you get to choose, take your time to pick one that has had a proper start. After all, if you’re going to pay top dollar for a puppy, you deserve one that has a head start in life and hasn’t been raised like livestock.\n\nPuppies grow up fast and are more like children than cats when it comes to their demands for your attention and their need for care. Choosing a puppy is a decade- plus relationship, so resist the immediate gratification of buying puppies online or over the phone in place of selecting a respected organization or breeder who’ll take care of your puppy (and take the time to socialize them) from their very first breath.\n\nAfter you’ve narrowed your search, you need to choose a few places or people to contact. You’ll find a handy cheat sheet in the pages ahead listing the best ques- tions to ask a puppy provider, like where the puppies have been raised (inside is best), whether or not they have been seen by a vet or given inoculations, and whether they have a jump start on crating or house-training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 65, "chunk_index": 61, "id": "622fc523-40bf-4fca-b0f0-79278668d9f2", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "Finally, because every puppy has sensory reactions and a budding personality that can be scored as early as 8 weeks old, ask the breeder whether they have tested the puppy or, if not, whether you can observe the litter before choosing the one that best connects with you and the rest of your family.\n\nWhen you go to a breeder or shelter, there’s a small chance you won’t click with any of the puppies you meet. It doesn’t often happen, but be prepared. Always remember that nothing is more disappointing (for you and the pup) than bringing a puppy home and finding that it isn’t a good fit. Finding your forever puppy is worth the wait. Think of the advice and tips in this chapter as my way to teach you how to find a puppy that connects with you and each member of the family.\n\nOne vital stage of any puppy’s life happens before you even bring them home. Dur- ing that early stage, from birth to 8 weeks old, the type of environment surround- ing them forms them in ways that will impact their behavior in your home. A puppy from a peaceful environment, where the owners mindfully nurture the parent dogs and puppies, is generally better equipped to handle the transition into a new home than a puppy who has lived in an overcrowded, neglected kennel and who has been severed from their litter at an early age. The reason is simple: A puppy’s brain is still developing even after they come out of the womb, and it continues until they’re 12 weeks old. Life stress can have a much greater impact at this time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 62, "id": "ab9950ef-fd9f-4162-9f2a-bbc4deccd5cd", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Lots of people are eager to know what’s better — a male or female puppy. Person- ally, I’ve loved both. Boys, however, are known, generally speaking, for being more clinging and dependent than females. If you have dogs at home, avoid hav- ing two female dogs under the same roof. Adult females can be a little ornery while living together (just imagine!) and often get along better with male com- panions. Of course, if you have a male dog, they can roll either way.\n\nUnless you have a direct connection to a breeder, shelter, or rescue organization, the first place you may want to look into finding your puppy is on the Internet. Nowadays, you’ll find direct sites for breeders, shelters, and other sources, as well as sites that review such businesses. And though it used to take time to contact other people who have had experiences with a shelter or breeder, you can now send instant messages to people to see how their puppies developed. The web has brought dog lovers together, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see how happy everyone is to help you get started on the right paw.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 63, "id": "09d22076-cdb1-4dc6-a622-306831b01a61", "word_count": 193, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 250 } }, { "page_content": "That being said, I don’t recommend that you actually buy a puppy over the Inter- net. You should meet with and talk directly to representatives of shelters and res- cue organizations or breeders. And do all the necessary research to find your forever puppy from a good source. Scammers are everywhere: Beware of the “breeder” who demands that you wire money immediately through Western Union. Puppy mills (facilities that basically farm dogs like livestock) advertise their litters online, misrepresenting their devotion to their puppies’ well-being. Welfare organizations and shelters post haunting photos of mixed-breed puppies who need homes but may not be a good fit for your home. A pet photo is like the cover of a book: You can’t tell much just by looking.\n\nSome websites rate potential breeders and list the ones who have litters for sale. Good places to go for information are www.adoptadog.com, www.puppyfinder. com, and www.puppyfind.com. However, some people in the puppy industry make the argument that no ethical breeders would sell puppies online because, much like a child-adoption agency, anyone with an ethical bone in their body would want to meet a prospective parent so that they know who is adopting their “furry children” and what kind of home they’ll be providing. So do your research carefully before traveling down this road. Anyone can advertise them- selves as a breeder, and you don’t want to give your heart away to a mishandled puppy!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 64, "id": "2c9a8171-9f4a-40f2-853f-822bf5406a82", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "Unless you’re a fan of mail-order brides (or grooms), don’t buy a puppy from an ad on the Internet. You will overpay for a puppy who has likely spent their early days in an outdoor pen or living on a puppy farm like a pig. You’ll be nearly guaranteed a puppy whose high levels of stress will play havoc on your lovely home or apartment. It’s far better to find either a rescue that has used a foster home or a breeder or shelter who’s helped your dog to adapt to life in your town and will be on call to help you to settle your puppy in as they start life with you.\n\nHere are some tips for finding a good pup on the Internet:\n\n» In addition to emailing the puppy’s shelter, owner, foster family, or breeder, speak to the other party by phone. Ask about the breeds and genetic health of the puppy’s parents, if they’re known. If the parent’s histories are supposedly known, but no one has health certifications to back that history up . . .think twice: Puppies are everywhere, and you want the one with a healthy future.\n\n» Ask for a copy of the puppy’s health records. People can easily and\n\nimmediately send them via text or email. If you’re even slightly suspicious about the information, call and speak to the veterinarian’s office directly. Ask the hospital staff questions about the puppy and the owner: Was the puppy raised with their mother and littermates, where were the puppies housed, and how much social interaction have they received? If the people caring for the puppy are unwilling to share this information, reconsider this puppy. The ideal puppy is one raised indoors with the birth family and with lots of loving social interaction — anything less may spell trouble for you in the long run. » When talking to people in contact with your puppy, listen for loaded", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 65, "id": "8dc28d3a-5343-4ebb-acfe-dc1e6cfa8c91", "word_count": 323, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 419 } }, { "page_content": "words like spunky (which probably means hyperactive or reactive), shy (timid), or self-assured (meaning strong-willed).\n\n» Request a video of the puppy with their mother and littermates or with other dogs at the shelter. Is the location clean? Does the puppy look happy and healthy?\n\n» If the puppy is already separated from their mother, ask what age they were at the time of separation. Puppies removed before 7 weeks lack their mother’s formative influence, which is invaluable for learning emotional regulation, bite inhibition, and respect. These puppies may never make up for the valuable time lost and may need a lot more structure and time to socialize and train.\n\n» Ask the owner to send you the purchaser’s contract outlining the\n\nagreement between you. Don’t buy a puppy without an agreement that clearly states what will happen to the puppy if you discover that they have a health issue or find that their temperament isn’t a good match for your family. If you’re unable to return the puppy for any reason, do not proceed. All good breeders should let you return their puppies, no questions asked.\n\n» If the breeder checks out and prefers that you pay online, use an online escrow account to hold the funds until your pup has arrived safely and you’ve had them checked out by your veterinarian. A reputable breeder should agree to this plan if they’re more devoted to the placement of their puppies than to their dollar value.\n\n» Beware of the bargain-basement puppy. A puppy whose price is reduced may be undersocialized, maturing out of the cute phase, in poor health, or temperamentally unsound.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 68, "chunk_index": 66, "id": "35dd3a77-44d7-4a3a-ab89-5adff2808b89", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "When choosing a mixed-breed puppy from a photo, be mindful of the mix. Although all puppies look adorable onscreen, if the puppy is a combination of two breeds that you wouldn’t otherwise choose for your lifestyle, mixing them won’t help. Research all breeds that may be in the mix, and evaluate each one’s fit with your lifestyle.\n\nAdopting a pup from a shelter or a rescue organization\n\nYou may be wondering what the difference is between a shelter and a rescue orga- nization and how it relates to choosing your forever puppy. The short explanation is that shelters operate out of a municipal building or kennel-type facility and often care for a range of pets, whereas rescue organizations generally focus on one type of animal, and foster those animals out to live in homes until they are find their forever homes.\n\nAlthough puppies are generally born in litters ranging from 3 to 13 puppies, occa- sionally a mother dog gives birth to just one puppy, called a singleton. These pup- pies are at a disadvantage because they would normally learn much more about the world by way of interaction and play with their doggie siblings. Unless you’re a seasoned dog owner, avoid singleton puppies: These dogs need someone who can help them learn boundaries and good manners. The same advice applies to hand-raised puppies — puppies who, for whatever reason, lost their mothers early on and had to be rescued and raised solely by humans. Even if raised with litter- mates, without their mother’s influence and lessons on self-restraint these pup- pies often develop pushy, unyielding mannerisms and a tendency toward resource guarding. Explore other options and leave these puppies to someone with lots of special needs’ puppy-raising experience.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 67, "id": "04d2ef41-80e1-4724-853b-2d52eeff43f8", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "The local animal shelter (also known as animal control, the dog pound, or the Humane Society) is often a government-run facility that harbors various types of animals that have either been abandoned at its doorstep or found roaming within its jurisdiction. Shelters are often full of various types of animals available for adoption. Many shelters, especially in areas where spay-and-neuter laws aren’t enforced, if they even exist, are overrun and forced to euthanize animals who aren’t claimed or adopted within a set period. Although no-kill shelters exist, often having more animals than they have space to contain them makes them\n\ncontroversial; an unadoptable, ill, or poorly mannered dog may be preventing another dog with better adoption potential from reaching the public eye. Unfortu- nately, it’s a problem with no ideal solution.\n\nIf you choose to adopt a puppy from a shelter, the puppy will have detailed health records and if not spayed or neutered already will generally have you return the puppy to their chosen veterinarian for the procedure at a designated time. Most shelters will have a greeting pen or room where you and your family, if you have one, can spend time with various candidates before choosing the one you like best.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 68, "id": "8c581b19-a0dd-4d35-90d0-1e099aca6312", "word_count": 204, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 265 } }, { "page_content": "Shelter puppies come from all walks of life. Some of the pups’ situations are known, although others aren’t. Many shelters and animal welfare organizations rescue puppies from dire situations and care for them until they’re adopted. Some of these puppies are removed from their mothers at an early age (before 8 weeks old) and need special care before they can be put up for adoption. Other puppies are brought in with or without their mothers and left at a shelter. Those pre- adoption weeks are critical: If you adopt a puppy whose early life was stressed, you cannot make up for lost time. Even if you’re able to increase the socialization and touch conditioning levels in the first weeks you bring them home, there may be certain wary or dramatic reactions you can never completely condition out of your puppy.\n\nAs you surf the web, you may notice a lot of rescue organizations within a 1- or 2-hour drive from your home. Rescue organizations are similar to shelters in that they are not-for-profit, tax-exempt organizations. They differ from shelters because they generally focus on one species — say, dogs — and gather volunteers to serve as foster families until their rescues find their forever homes. Adopting a puppy from a rescue organization versus a shelter may be a longer process, involv- ing home visits and lengthy questioning to ensure that the rescue you like is best suited for you and your family (if you have one).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 69, "id": "209a0809-5bfd-44a5-afce-7b85c83fb7ee", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "When people think of hoarders, they generally think of people who like to collect stuff, but do you know about animal hoarders? Though few people scoff at people who collect worthless stuff like newspapers and old cellphones, people who hoard pets affect more than themselves. Raids occur across the country, discovering individuals who hoard many dozens of animals (often, dogs and cats) at a time. These animals often live in squalor, and though the hoarder-person likely loves their animals on some deep emotional level, they’re often long past the number of animals they can manage.\n\nThe recent development of not-for-profit rescue organizations often supports a person’s fixation on rescuing animals, making it easy for a hoarder to masquerade as a rescue organization. If you come in contact with such a place, resist rescuing\n\nan individual animal and contact the authorities (the local animal shelter). Puppies raised in these conditions need professional help to undo the damage of a stressful start.\n\nWhether talking to shelter staff or emailing rescue organizations, you will be asked for a lot of important information, including your current employment sta- tus, how much time you’ll be able to spend at home during the day, whether you have a fenced-in yard, and what you will do with your dog when you go on vaca- tion. Answer honestly; if your application is turned down, ask why and consider whether you’re willing to make changes in your lifestyle to increase the chance of getting the next puppy you consider.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 70, "id": "72b3dcfb-1ecb-4191-8730-6b6c8d53a7b1", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "Here are some important questions to ask the staff or foster family. These people, often volunteers, all have one thing in common — they love their dogs and want the best for them:\n\n» Do you know anything about the puppy’s history? » Have you spent time with the puppy? If so, what do you think of their\n\n» Has the puppy been introduced to children or cats? If so, what was their\n\n» Has the puppy been vetted? That is, do they have a health clearance from a\n\n» Has the puppy been neutered? Many shelters routinely alter puppies at a\n\nyoung age or offer you a discount at their clinic.\n\nIf you have other pets or kids, arrange a meeting to gauge a potential puppy’s reaction to them. Although you may adore a puppy, if they don’t light up to the rest of your gang, find one who does. The last thing you want is to have to bring the puppy back.\n\nMost, but not all, of the puppies found at shelters and rescue organizations are mixed breeds. Consider how each breed in the mix will fit into your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re looking for a low-shedding, small- to medium-size dog who will sally up to anyone, pass on the Chow-Akita mix, no matter how cute they look sitting there in the cage. As an adult, they’ll be large and aloof to strangers and will have heavy shedding seasons — and those characteristics do not match your initial criteria!\n\nA staff member can give you their opinion of the breeds that went into the mix, but if you have a friend who knows breeds, you may want to send them a photo or bring them along for a second opinion.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 71, "id": "fbf959e2-4d31-4592-8f88-22564e99070d", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "If you’ve decided that you prefer the predictability and breeder assurances of adopting a purebred puppy or designer mixed-breed puppy, go for it! Although you may get some flak from those who feel that everyone should “adopt, not shop,” don’t let anyone guilt-trip you out of your decision. In your case, be sure to purchase a puppy from a well-respected breeder who raises their litters indoors and exposes them to many of life’s everyday stimulations.\n\nAs is true in all professions, you’ll come across good breeders and not-so-good ones. Top breeders conscientiously raise dogs with good genetic lines. Reputable breeders test dogs before breeding them to ensure that they’re free of any con- genital defects and to guarantee the health of the puppy they sell. Good breeders also socialize their puppies to everyday sounds and stimulations, including chil- dren, men, as well as various other animals; many breeders submit every puppy to temperament testing to help pair each with an ideal home.\n\nHere are some other ways to determine whether a breeder has their dogs’ and puppies’ best interests in mind or is breeding just to make money. If you sense hesitation or lack of expertise when speaking to a breeder, move on. You want to raise one puppy who’ll mesh into your lifestyle with ease: Find a breeder who supports your vision, not the one who treats their dogs like livestock.\n\nRemember that these people are giving you their time; thank them for speaking with you and be prepared to answer their questions first. If they don’t build the answers to your potential questions into the conversation, ask politely and note their answers. Here are some questions to ask when talking to a breeder:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 72, "id": "d48a7e42-d331-47c6-a7fa-8c8dbebbf32f", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "» Are litters raised in the home and mindfully exposed to the sounds and\n\nstimulations of everyday life? Litters raised in the kitchen or living room are best; see if you can find one.\n\n» Is the potential breeder aware of their breed’s (or mixed breed’s) genetic\n\ndefects — defects passed down from one generation to the next, and which may include hip elbow dysplasia, eye or heart maladies? (Conscientious breeders avoid breeding dogs with such defects.) Do both your potential puppy’s parents have all their health clearances up-to-date?\n\n» Does the breeder you’re speaking to have a contract to sign? If so, could they send you a copy of it to review? If a breeder doesn’t have a contract to sign when buying your puppy, do not use that breeder. Contracts should contain policies for returning the puppy, no matter what the age, if your situation\n\ndemands it. Many top breeders have you sign an agreement guaranteeing the health of your puppy and a stipulation regarding spaying or neutering your puppy. This contract also lists the inoculations and deworming medications that may have been given before you bring your puppy home.\n\n» Has your puppy seen a veterinarian? If not, that would be a good indication\n\nthat this breeder doesn’t have their puppies’ best interests in mind. Veterinarians are costly, but that’s part of the high price you pay when buying a puppy from a breeder in the first place. A good breeder will have their litters checked at least once and will provide the first set of inoculations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 73, "id": "17ff297d-a8f7-4ed3-ae6d-07ac933bf17e", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "» Ask if the puppies are bred for the show ring — pretty, yes but they may not have a pet’s more chill personality or temperament. Reputable breeders breed for temperament, which means that the breeders are just as interested in puppies that act delightfully as ones that look good. If you want your puppy to be a pet, this attribute in a breeder trumps all others.\n\n» Has the breeder begun training their puppies to a crate or pen? Many\n\nbreeders would already have provided their puppies with chew toys, such as ropes, hard plastic or rubber bones, or hollow bones stuffed with dry food, and would have also already begun training their puppies to use a separate potty area to eliminate before handing them over to their new owner. All this prep work gives you a tremendous leg up on housetraining and chewing habits when you bring the puppy home.\n\n» Good breeders take notice of each puppy, using colored paper collars to identify pups early on. Has the breeder you’re considering spent time interacting with and holding each puppy or developing a simple training protocol to encourage good manners? One thing a mindful breeder does is withhold food or treats until their puppies stop jumping, which results in good manners from the start.\n\n» A good breeder also observes and handles each puppy to determine their sensory sensitivities after 7-weeks of age. Breeders often do (or allow a potential family to do) a short series of temperament tests to determine which puppy would be ideal for a given home. In the later section “Testing a puppy’s temperament,” I include a temperament test that you can give as you consider each candidate, if your breeder hasn’t done a test already.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 74, "id": "05cdb1bb-ee9b-4b75-9409-f1d724d352c5", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "Breeders who can help you understand both the positive and negative aspects of the breed they work with are worth their weight in gold. If they’re serious about the placement of their puppies, they’ll ask you a whole list of questions to ensure that you’re a good fit for their breed and their puppies. You may feel more scruti- nized than if you were adopting a child, but don’t be put off by their questions, because in the end you’ll receive a puppy who has been loved and well cared for since its very first breath. If the breeder rejects you, ask why and ask whether they can provide information that can help you determine what dog would work best with your lifestyle.\n\nWhen evaluating breeding facilities, go with your gut. If you drive up to a breed- er’s kennel and get a bad vibe for any reason, such as dirty facilities, an inability to answer your questions, or not being allowed to see your puppy’s mother (or father, if he’s on the premises), leave. The urge to save a puppy from a bad envi- ronment may be overpowering, but unpleasant facilities or mistreatment can result in sickly or poorly socialized puppies. You will pay in the long run for having a puppy who may need more time and attention than you can devote in order to undo the isolation from real-life experiences your pup has endured. It’s better to back out of the driveway and place a quick call to the local chapter of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) to report bad breeders than to buy a puppy and possibly live to regret it. You’ll be doing yourself a favor, and you’ll help put people who are breeding purely for financial gains out of business.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 75, "id": "4d0b8ccc-4e33-4383-bd35-0ce131b5bb8c", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies who are bred in someone’s home may be purebred or mixed. These home- bred puppies usually come from dogs who are beloved pets, but who may or may not have health clearances, or from dogs who have mistakenly escaped their own- ers’ yards and mated with unknown sires. However, sometimes these pups come from dogs who live with people who thought breeding two purebred dogs would be fun, educational for the kids, or lucrative. If you follow a sign advertising a puppy for sale, talk to the owners about the following points:\n\n» If the puppies are a mixed breed, is the mix of breeds known or considered? » Were the parents tested for genetic defects known to the breed(s)? » Can you meet the parent dogs? » Have the puppies seen a veterinarian? If so, how far along are they with\n\n» What sort of stimulations have the puppies been exposed to (cats, kids, daily\n\n» If the puppy turns out not to be a good fit for your family, would the breeder\n\nA home breeder is unlikely to take the puppy back, so if the situation turns ugly, you may be left with the prospect of rehoming your puppy or dropping them off at a local shelter.\n\nBecause purebred puppies bred at home generally cost the same as a breeder would charge, give this option a second thought if this individual cannot provide health clearances or reassurances should this puppy not work out in your home.\n\nDon’t adopt a puppy younger than 8 weeks old. (Seven weeks may be okay only if you’re experienced with very young puppies.) You don’t want to adopt before 8 weeks because a pup’s mother normally spends weeks 6 through 8 socializing and teaching their puppies. The result of this socialization is good for you because the puppies will have more organized elimination habits, respect, and bite inhibition.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 76, "id": "03357175-c348-4358-8130-3da59c4c3b85", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies taken home early are often coddled by well-meaning, adoring humans. During a developmental stage, when the puppy’s mother would be teaching respect and impulse control, a person is placating and inconsistent. In this case, everyone becomes a target for nipping and bullying behavior.\n\nAvoiding puppy brokers, puppy mills, and pet stores\n\nOkay — there are a few places where you should definitely not get a puppy. Here are my top five:\n\n» Puppy brokers or agents: Puppy brokers (also known as puppy agents) are smooth-talking dog people who will promise to get you a puppy from their list of top-of-the-line breeders. Initially, these folks seem like saviors, descending to save you from the hassle of locating a puppy on your own. Do not be fooled. Most brokers are just out to make a buck and fill orders as fast as they come in — but no decent breeder will ever sell their puppy through a third party. Puppy brokers will go who-knows-where to find you a puppy when you want it and mark up the puppies they find in order to lace their pockets. After you decide where you want to concentrate your search, finding a puppy on your own isn’t hard; Chapter 3 and this chapter walk you through the process.\n\nIf you’ve already paid a broker to find you a puppy, insist on speaking to the breeder, ask the broker to provide reviews from other customers, and check the health clearances on both parents.\n\n» Puppy mill breeders: Puppy mill breeders aren’t breeders; they’re farmers.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 77, "id": "86e42640-5abc-44b3-af2e-33c59d5aa399", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "They offer many different types of puppies and house their dogs like livestock instead of beloved family members. Mother dogs are often bred every heat cycle (a horrific practice) and then killed off after they can no long produce large litters. Puppies are produced under tremendous stress and often live to wallow in feces. The noise of the dog’s barking is deafening. Individual puppies have little socialization or handling before they’re washed and primed for sale. Buying a puppy from this sort of situation does nothing but feed this practice. Do you want your money to go to someone who has such little regard for a dog’s life? Puppies from these situations are often more difficult to housetrain, chew to relieve anxiety that started long before you brought them home, and\n\nare hypersensitive to touch and sound. Sometimes it’s hard to determine if your puppy came from a puppy mill, but generally if you are buying your puppy from a middleman it’s highly likely that seller bought the puppy wholesale from a puppy mill where puppies are sold cheaply and not from a breeder who would never dream of selling their pups to a middleman.\n\n» From a box on the corner: If you ever pass a box with a sign that reads “Free to good home” or any similar message, promise me that you won’t look. Puppies are a mix of their parent’s genes and their early upbringing. In this case, you’ll likely have no proof of either. I have two words for you: Walk away. Repeat this mantra: One puppy, one choice, one life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 78, "id": "9f888650-5b71-40c1-bd10-a340c96fc4a7", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "» Pet stores: When a store owner purchases puppies for resale, they have to\n\nfind breeders who are willing to sell puppies cheaply enough that they can be marked up and resold for a profit. A reputable breeder would never sell puppies to a pet store. So the pet store then contacts resale breeders who often breed many dogs simultaneously to meet the demands of the pet store. The resale breeders often stretch both themselves and their breeding dogs to the limit, and many of the facilities called — you guessed it — puppy mills (see the preceding bullet point) are understaffed. These conditions result in puppies who don’t get proper care or socialization with the human world. They may also be sickly, as puppy mills are notorious for being understaffed, resulting in filth, dirty unchanged water, and feces-encrusted cages that attract parasites and flies. Bacteria and illness frequent these environments and quickly spread from puppy to puppy. Why take the risk?\n\n» Craigslist, Facebook, Twitter: Although I’m not saying a breeder won’t have an online presence, online interactions don’t take the place of reaching out and speaking with the breeder, shelter, or rescue organization. If you want to begin your search online, explore sites like www.petfinder.com to locate rescue dogs or www.akc.org to locate breeders. After you’ve researched places and checked their reviews, and perhaps even reached out to some of their puppy owners on Facebook, it’s time to make the phone call and speak to the people in charge. Take the time now to research this project. Otherwise, you may have more than a decade to regret your impulsivity — and that’s one hard lesson to swallow.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 79, "id": "a6f76d2d-13d7-4cce-b9d6-1b8dfe8310ab", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "More calculating breeders who choose to send their puppies out for resale don’t usually send the pet stores the cream of their litters. The puppies they send are usually undersized or of poor conformation, from an ankle joint that’s out of place to an undershot jaw. Resale breeders aren’t likely to spend money to ensure that their breeding dogs are free from genetic defects.\n\nAlthough many people are now purposely mixing different dog breeds, coming up with fancy-sounding names and then selling them at a high price, few of these “breeders” have much experience. Generally, when you pay for a puppy, you’re paying for genera- tions of careful breeding and reliable temperament. A breeder who is generating mixed- breed puppies, giving them names like Chi-weenie and Shorkie and selling them at a premium, may well be someone who owns a puppy mill and is just pairing dogs they have housed in kennels. Be careful when paying money for mixed-breed dogs. Use the same considerations you would if you were buying a purebred dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 80, "id": "40961ebf-0a20-4c38-99a9-c4e8c2d31052", "word_count": 173, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 224 } }, { "page_content": "Whether you’re choosing a mixed-breed or purebred puppy, you can tell a lot about them just by meeting them. If you’re visiting a shelter, see how the puppy (or the litter) deals with the anxiety of a new introduction, Do they hesitate, get excited, or take it all in stride? If visiting a breeder, ask if you can meet the parents and spend a couple of hours observing the litter. Like all kids, all puppies have distinct personalities and varying degrees of sensory awareness. A puppy with a strong sense of themselves is forceful in play and with toys; a more passive puppy hesitates in new situations and often watches and considers before they jump up and responds. A playful puppy gets excited more easily and tries to engage their littermates in interactive activities like wrestling and tug-of-war. When choosing your new puppy, watch how they interact with their first family — that’s how they relate to their world.\n\nBefore you drive to a breeder, ask about the visiting procedures: Can you meet individual puppies on your own, or will you be in an open room with the breeder present? The following section presents some guidelines for meeting and assess- ing your potential puppy and provides exercises (also known as a temperament test) that check for certain qualities and lets you know what the different reactions to stimuli tell you about your prospective puppy.\n\nWhen the day finally arrives to go meet your potential puppy, you may be headed to different kinds of places to check out lovely puppies. The procedures for", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 77, "chunk_index": 81, "id": "d64bad1c-b88a-449a-89bb-f50e75641e66", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "visiting pups differ depending on the type of place, so I break down the basics for you here:\n\n» In a private home: If you’re going to visit a foster family or a breeder, you’ll likely go to their home. Ask to visit in the morning or late afternoon because that’s when most puppies are awake and playful. If that isn’t possible, ask about the puppy’s schedule and how long you can stay. Avoid nap times or late-night visits. When possible, ask to stay for a couple of hours so that you can watch and interact with the litter over an extended period.\n\n» At a shelter: Speak with a staff member ahead of time to find out how many puppies are available for adoption. (You can also ask ahead of time whether they know the breeds or mix of breeds so that you know whether the type of dog you want is available.) Find out whether a private meeting area is available and whether you can observe a litter together. Ideally, you want to see your candidate interacting with other puppies to determine their sociabil- ity within a group.\n\n» At a pet shop: If you’ve settled on purchasing your puppy from a pet store, you’ll visit on your schedule. When possible, visit in the morning after the puppies have had a good rest. Ask to meet individual puppies separately: If one seems like a good fit, bring other puppies into the greeting room, too, to see how your candidate interacts with them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 82, "id": "ca25d617-b6f7-42d8-ae0a-9d0d775e9fee", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "Selecting a puppy from a litter? You can tell a lot about each puppy’s evolving personality and coping skills by 7 weeks of age. Though you can shape your puppy’s habits once you get them home — redirecting your playful puppy if they jump on you, for example, or having them learn to fetch a toy when you come home — their worldview is set early on. In this section, I tell you how to evaluate a pup’s personality based on simple exercises and on watching how they act with their littermates. These are basic categories — a litter may have more than one, or may not have one, of the personality types:\n\n» Assertive: Assertive and playful puppies have a lot in common, so it’s easy to confuse the two. At first glance, both might seem social and interactive. You may think, “Wow — that one has spirit.” However, keep watching. Do they steal the toys from the other puppies or play too rough? Do they scale the enclosure or climb on the backs of their littermates as though they don’t exist?\n\nThese bossy behaviors are sure signs of determination, smarts, and willpower, but unless you’re in the market for a dog who’ll win agility competitions, think hard about how those characteristics will mesh with your home life. If you have the time to channel (and challenge) this puppy, take them home.\n\nHowever, if you have other demands on your time and you’re hoping for a puppy to reduce your stress, another personality type may suit you better. » Playful: Puppies in this group are quick-thinking, fun-loving, and engaging.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 83, "id": "f09aa7d4-a27e-40f3-a71b-75941628a75e", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "They’re equally fascinated by toys and socializing with their littermate or with you. When playing with different puppies, they adjust their tempo to reflect the other puppies’ demeanor. Another term for this personality type is social butterflies because they’re all about engaging without being too headstrong. This temperament is ideal for an active person or a family with older children.\n\n» Independent: These puppies interact in playful encounters some of the\n\ntime, but are also happy sitting or playing with a toy on their own. Stoic and contained, these independent thinkers seem to have been born with an old soul.\n\nThese pups are ideal in structured homes where owners fully respect their sense of self and make a commitment to teach them. Because these puppies are mindful and alert, they’re best suited to calm homes with older kids or no children.\n\nDependent: This type loathes solitude and wants to please. If socialized with people, they gravitate to you as if seeking your approval. That attitude leads this puppy to the head of the class or into the doghouse, depending on how you play it: If you direct and reinforce good manners, you’ll have more than 100 percent cooperation; but if you try to discipline your puppy, they’ll see your interaction as a reason to replay bad behavior over and over and over.\n\nBecause of their trainability, dependent puppies are wonderful companions, but they can end up on the B list if they don’t receive direction.\n\n» Relaxed: This calm personality type beautifully balances play, interaction, and sleep — doing all three on their own time. Perhaps less intelligent than their more active siblings, pups with this personality type simply do what they want, when they want.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 84, "id": "4df91742-5ad5-4c73-82ec-fc34b03568f2", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Having relaxed puppies may sound dreamy, but remember that motivating them takes some creativity. They’re not ideal for controlling owners, but they complement most households and fit beautifully into a home environment with young children, as long as the breed is suitable (see Chapter 3 if you need help selecting a breed) and the puppy shows an immediate affinity for the children upon first meeting them.\n\n» Sweet: Soft-natured and gentle, these puppies are often buried under their\n\nlittermates who are playfully aware of their docile nature. These pups are also passive and eager to please, so their sweetness is palpable. Within their litters, these puppies stay close to their mothers and use their protection as a shield.\n\nThe sweet personality is good for owners who prefer doting attention over rigorous training. Puppies with this personality are less likely to roam, because staying close to home is a top priority.\n\n» Timid: These puppies, who are clearly not born with a strong sense of self, may appear to have been abused, even though it’s more symbolic of their dislocated character than misguided nurturing. When approached, they often creep on their bellies or arch their backs in total submission.\n\nYour heart may go out to pups with this personality, but select this type only if you have the time and patience to devote to fostering their self-esteem.\n\nRegardless of your effort, timid puppies may always be overwhelmed and in need of direction, so they aren’t a suitable choice for families with children.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 85, "id": "579875d3-eef8-4643-82b3-a2a134c56a20", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "In this section I give you 10 quick exercises, also known as temperament tests, that you can administer while you’re deciding whether you and a puppy are compati- ble. Of course, you can’t get a completely accurate snapshot of your adult dog — other factors are equally if not more important, like socialization, training, and consistency — but these tests are a good way for you to determine each candi- date’s sensitivities and get a realistic view of their early conditioning.\n\nIn the following section, you’ll find a testing sheet to keep track of your candi- dates’ reactions: Feel free to cut out or copy the form and take it with you when interacting with a candidate. I ran through these exercises with more than 20 dogs before I found Whoopsie, our Labrador retriever. Truth be told, I wasn’t looking for them when I found them. I had scanned the shelters in the area, testing puppy after puppy. Then I was called to select a puppy from a litter for a client. That’s when it happened: I temperament-tested a puppy who hit the score I was waiting for. (See “Rating the results,” later in this chapter, to find out about scoring the test.) Now it’s your turn!\n\nIf you’re testing an 8-week-old puppy (a common age for puppies to become available), remember that their brain won’t be fully aroused or awake until they’re 12 weeks old. Try to schedule your visit just before feeding or stay for a few hours to watch them during various activities. Test your puppy when they’re active, not when they’re tired or sleepy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 86, "id": "650db0bf-5f68-40d9-90ba-f053451c52ca", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "If you have children, involve them. If you have other pets, ask if you can bring them. Some facility staff or breeders may balk, but it’s essential that your puppy meet and make a connection to every member of your family. You want your puppy to succeed in your home environment, which means getting along with your sometimes-disgruntled resident schnauzer or your shy 6-year-old son. Finding a puppy who best suits their temperaments can be a plus because not every puppy personality will jive with them. Let children older than 5 take part in the exercises, and ask whether other pets can meet your chosen canidates.\n\nFIGURE 4-1: Use this assessment form whenever you’re testing puppies.\n\nA puppy’s breed influences their reaction to many of these tests and can skew the results. A retriever breed is more interactive, a terrier is squirmier when restrained (terriers like to stand firm), and smaller breeds are more hesitant when bent over (they’re so tiny and you’re so big) and more reactive to loud noises.\n\nBring the form shown in Figure 4-1 with you when you’re testing puppies. Score each puppy’s response to test items with the following scale:\n\nActive puppies are smart and full of fun, which means there will suddenly be a whole lot of life going on under your roof. Spirited and intelligent, active pups are adored by owners who have the time and determination needed to train and socialize them. Neutral puppies are relaxed and undemanding — sort of the regu- lar guys of the dog world. Passive and shy puppies appreciate love and support but are fearful of change, so they do best in consistent environments and with people who have the patience and time for extra socialization. (I tell you more about the importance of early socialization and how to do it in Chapter 9.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 87, "id": "50efa891-e61c-4d91-b887-9df8a7175de6", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "After you perform the tests in the following section, you can interpret the scores using the information in the later section “Rating the results.”\n\nIf possible, do these gentle exercises with each prospective puppy to assess their socialization to everyday handling and sensory comfort levels (how well they adapt to sudden sounds, sights, and commotion, in other words). This will give you insight into the puppy’s personality and how they will mesh with your lifestyle:\n\nYou can tell a lot about a puppy before you’ve even said hello. Watch the puppy, for up to 30 minutes when possible, if they’re playing with other puppies in order to observe their personality. Do they prefer jumping into group activities (A), hanging in the midst of the activity (N), or staying on the sidelines (P)? Are they stealing the bones (A) or submitting when approached (N or P)? After you’ve observed the pup for a few minutes, assign them a score in the first column.\n\nWhen you first take a puppy aside, play with them, offering both treats and toys if permitted. Do they squirm to get away from you, look anxiously for their littermates, or engage and climb on you like a long-lost friend? Rate their energy level and persistence: Are they hyper or demanding (A), easygoing (N), or just wanting to be petted (P)? Bring out some toys. Do they show interest in them? Do they share willingly, instigate tug-of-war (A), or covet the object immediately? Coveting is an early sign of possessiveness, which may lead to aggression.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 88, "id": "b39d023c-74d4-47fd-a77c-3c251369cfb5", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "I brought a ball when I was searching for a dog who would catch and retrieve. If being able to play a particular game with your puppy is important to you, see how the pup does with a related toy or activity.\n\nCradle the puppy in your arms. Do they relax (P), wiggle a bit, and then relax (N) — or kick like crazy (A)? Which action matches your expectations? See how quickly the puppy recovers after being put down; recovery is measured by how quickly they return to you and willingly takes a treat or engages with a toy.\n\nDon’t choose an A type if you have children. That type is bright and engaging, which is a plus if you’re sporty or you want to be involved in obedience or sportier activities like agility or freestyle.\n\nWhile holding out a treat or a squeak toy, call to the puppy as you back away from them. Do they race after you while jumping or nipping your ankles (A), follow happily (N), or hesitate and need coaxing (P)?\n\nKneeling on the floor or sitting in a chair, settle the puppy between your legs. Pet them in long, gentle strokes as you praise them softly. Do they wriggle free as they nip (A), wriggle and then relax (N), or simply melt in your embrace (P)?\n\nStand up, stretch, and relax. Now go to the puppy and lean over to pet them. Your doing this may seem overwhelming to the pup because you’re so large and they’re so small. Do they jump up to your face (A), cower in confusion (P), or just relax and let it happen (N)?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 82, "chunk_index": 89, "id": "f7ce6556-b626-4f58-b4f2-99dd8838f18b", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "In this exercise, you’re testing the puppy’s reaction and sensitivity to discomfort. While petting the puppy, gently lift the back-right leg 2 inches off the floor and hold it for a count of 5 seconds (although either leg would do). Do they react defen- sively? If so, they’re definitely an A type with high pain sensitivity. An N puppy may lick or place their mouth on you gently, whereas a P puppy will show concern.\n\nWhen choosing a puppy for a home with young children, I look for a puppy who has a very low sensitivity to touch — one who barely notices a toe squeeze and doesn’t ruffle at being petted the wrong way or restrained for a short burst of time (fewer than 5 seconds).\n\nWhen your prospective puppy least expects it, tap two metal spoons together behind their back, then drop them 3 inches from where they’re standing. Gauge their reaction: Do they startle and freeze? How quickly do they recover to explore the spoons or take a treat from your hand? If the puppy shows intense spoon interest, score A; a nonchalant glance, an N; and a fear reaction noted by cowering or withdrawal, a P.\n\nStand and wait until the puppy is no longer interested in you. Suddenly fall to the ground and exclaim “Ouch!” Does the puppy race over and pounce (A), come to sniff or lick your face (N), or cower and run in fear (P)?\n\nIf you have a family, choose a puppy who rolls with unpredicted reactions and noise. You have enough on your hands without your puppy getting involved.\n\nLift the puppy 4 inches off the floor by cradling their midsection. Hold them there for at least 5 seconds. Do they wriggle and bite furiously (A)? Do they relax and look around (N)? Do they look fearful and constrict their body posture (P)?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 90, "id": "3dcae3f3-2a50-4ba4-97e3-9636d6128501", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "When testing giant breeds, the uplift may not be physically possible. (They’re heavy even at 8 weeks.) You can modify this test by standing behind the puppy and, with two hands supporting their ribcage, gently lifting their front legs 3 inches off the ground.\n\nFIGURE 4-4: Checking the puppy’s reaction to the uplift test.\n\nAfter you’ve completed the tests in the preceding section, see how many of each letter (A, N, or P) the puppy scored. Don’t be surprised if you get mixed results. Here are some tips for interpreting the tallied score:\n\n» All A: This interactive puppy is bright and self-assured. Raising them will take concentration, consistency, and time. Their favorite expression: “What’s next?”\n\n» All N: Easygoing and contained, this puppy will be pleasant and self-assured, though perhaps not motivated to follow your agenda when it conflicts with their own. Their favorite expression: “Is this necessary?”\n\n» All P: This puppy has weak self-esteem and needs your reassurance to feel safe. Without proper lessons and socialization, they’ll be shy. Their favorite expression: “It’s been three minutes — do you still love me?”\n\n» Mix of A and N: This active puppy will want to be in the middle of everything but will show slightly more impulse control when stimulated. Their favorite expression: “Let’s do it again!”\n\n» Mix of N and P: This puppy will be easygoing and gentle, yet with a stronger sense of self than a completely passive pup. Because they’re more composed, they’ll be an ideal puppy for a calm house with or without older children. Favorite expression: “Another back-scratching, please.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 84, "chunk_index": 91, "id": "53b6719e-d6c7-4e9d-8303-4ed64483a1e6", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "If you’ve found a puppy whose score matches what you’re looking for, great! If not, keep looking. Don’t get discouraged, and don’t settle for a puppy who doesn’t quite suit you, just because you’ve been looking for a long time. I’ve been there — finding the right puppy is worth the wait.\n\nIf you’ve decided to adopt an older puppy, you may be hoping to skip the tasks involved with the younger set, from curbing the nipping habit to house-training. With the right pup, you may be able to avoid some of these situations. However, no situation is perfect, and very few puppies can glide into a new life without a few setbacks. In this section, I walk you through some of the special considerations you should have when picking out an older puppy.\n\nDepending on where you go to look for an older puppy, read the following ques- tions to ask and points to consider before taking your little guy or gal home:\n\n» Breeder: A breeder often keeps a puppy for showing purposes. If the puppy doesn’t grow into “show dog” potential, they’ll be made available for sale. Sometimes, finding this puppy is like hitting the jackpot — provided the puppy has been living indoors, has received individual attention, and has been well socialized. At other times, it’s a disappointment, especially if the puppy has lived in a kennel for the past 6 months.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 85, "chunk_index": 92, "id": "c1908796-399b-475f-883b-9f3bef2d0d2f", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Because a breeder’s older puppy may be unfamiliar with the routines of home life, they may not know what stairs are or may not have spent time in a yard. And, no matter what the breeder tries to tell you, a puppy who has spent the majority of their time in a kennel isn’t housebroken. Find out where this puppy spent their early months before racing into this venture. A puppy who can’t emotionally acclimate to your home life isn’t a reasonable candidate for you. » Rescue organizations: Rescue organizations foster their puppies in homes, and you’ll be able to both visit the home and question the foster parent about your puppy’s socialization, temperament, and training. This can be a good option when considering an older puppy. The same rules apply, however, to the important question to ask: Has the puppy been raised indoors around other pets and people? How are their reactions to everyday sounds and stimulations? How is their house-training going? Don’t be afraid to ask or test for more detailed information, like whether the puppy enjoys snuggling or being held, what toys are their favorites, whether you can remove high-value items like a bone or food dish, and how they behave on a leash. If you have a family, make sure the puppy relates to everyone, including other pets.\n\nYou may find a puppy, young or old, who is being fostered in another state. Visit if you can; otherwise, look for a different puppy. People who are fostering are in the business of getting their puppies adopted, and they want to do it especially quickly if a puppy is a lot to handle. Sometimes, these people may enhance a dog’s behavior traits and disregard others. See Table 4-1 for alternative interpretations of general behavioral descriptions. Buyer beware.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 93, "id": "dca476e2-caa6-44fa-94ba-005c8c253793", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "After a puppy’s peak socialization period, around 16 weeks of age, it’s impos- sible to turn back the clock. People, places, sights, and smells that your puppy would have conditioned to naturally at an early age will seem suspicious to an older puppy. Do you want a dog who can’t warm up to everyday stimulations?\n\nPuppies who are overisolated or stressed during infancy are shown to chew more destructively and may wreck your furnishings if they aren’t conditioned to chew their toys. The early turmoil created nervous energy that needs to be displaced, and because running to the refrigerator is off limits and nail-biting\n\nisn’t an option, your puppy will chew on whatever is available. Provide plenty of satisfying options or else you may see your sofa disappear, one cushion at a time.\n\n» Shelter: If you find an older puppy at a shelter, ask about their history and try to find out why they were left there. Were they found on the side of the street, or have they grown up in the system? Has the puppy in question been returned more than once? Ask what the reasons were — you may be adopting a dog who couldn’t be house-trained, was fearful of kids, or showed aggression when chewing a bone. Find out what the staff thinks of the puppy’s personality. » Pet store, puppy broker, craigslist, and other sources: Discount shopping isn’t for puppies. Do not buy a puppy without meeting and talking to the breeder or rescuers first. Though you may read a phrase that makes you feel like you’ll be the winner, there are no winners in the online puppy shopping game. Buying a puppy in this manner ensures that more puppies will be bred this way, which doesn’t take their interests to heart.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 94, "id": "7db0259a-6bc3-474e-a36a-40f1dfc657ec", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies obtained online, especially those past the cute phase, sell for a discounted price. Though your heart (and mine) goes out to each of them, consider their reality before you adopt. A virtual lifetime spent behind bars can take an emotional toll, and house-training is a project for puppies never intro- duced to a designated potty area or the concept of holding their bladder. Also, these puppies have had little to no exposure to living in a home and the natural exposure to everyday sounds or objects, like stairs, cars, and tile flooring.\n\nHyper; has a hard time transitioning calmly; manic\n\nNot socialized with children during the critical period; will likely show a lifetime caution with them\n\nLikely has a high prey drive, making leisurely strolls a nightmare\n\nProbably has been attacked by other dogs or lived in a shelter situation\n\nHas not had proper socialization to people; may be highly reactive to strangers and visitors throughout life\n\nMay always be defensive and untrustworthy of men (who are walking plumes of testosterone) if they don’t have positive experiences with them before 3 months of age\n\nTerrible on a leash or no formal leash conditioning\n\nUnable to cope with unpredictable or unfamiliar situations\n\nUncontrollably and inconsolably reactive with little to no forewarning\n\nAs with a mood, cannot be eliminated, only managed\n\nLikely confined during early life; has a hard time calming down; hyper\n\nSame as the preceding entry — hasn’t learned to self-soothe\n\nHasn’t learned to regulate play with people and may develop into a dog who bites when excited or when guarding toys and bones", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 87, "chunk_index": 95, "id": "66cc6f63-4d82-46f7-87a3-ac000a29cbad", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "If skipping over the mayhem and inconsistencies associated with a young puppy sounds good to you, your adoption outings will target puppies who are older and (hopefully) wiser. Though you can apply the exercises for testing young puppies, here are a few additional guidelines when meeting to see whether an older pup is a good match for your lifestyle. Always remember to let your head lead your heart. Nothing is sadder than rescuing a dog only to have to return them because they couldn’t cope with your lifestyle. Be strong — find out ahead of time whether you and the puppy are suited to each other by performing the following tasks:\n\n» If you have kids, introduce them to the puppy before you bring\n\n» If you have an animal menagerie at home, make sure the puppy can cope with the creature chaos. Ask whether the owner has other pets at home (if the puppy has been living there) or whether anyone has conditioned this puppy to other creatures.\n\n» Ask a staff member (or the previous owner) to lift the puppy. What\n\nhappens? Intense fear or frustration isn’t a good sign. The ideal puppy may squirm but is still accepting of restraint. Also, ask to see how the puppy acts when approached while chewing on a bone or eating a meal.\n\n» To see how they handle contact, bring a soft brush and try to groom the\n\nOlder puppies who lack intensive early socialization are less accepting of strangers and strange or unpredictable situations than infant pups, so allow some room for edginess. But if you see anything more extreme, use all your willpower to back off, especially if what you see is aggression or excessive fearfulness. Unless you want a major training project, look for a puppy who’s been socialized to living indoors and shows comfort with each member of your family (other pets included).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 96, "id": "0d71dde3-5652-45e9-a754-62626a914195", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "Before embarking on your first pre-puppy preparation shopping spree, pre-\n\npare yourself. You’ll see a lot of stuff — many of the brands will seem pretty similar, and most of it will be made overseas. (Look for a Made in America sticker if that aspect is important to you.) Initially, your puppy will need only a few simple items, such as bowls, some toys, and a crate, gate, or pen for an enclosure. This chapter can help you make the right choices about purchasing puppy supplies, from what kind of toys and self-soothing objects to buy to where to place the crate. A little planning will give you peace of mind and ensure that your puppy comes home to a calm, consistent, and supportive new environment.\n\nThe first few days after you bring your puppy home will be a bit of a blur; the most important task to focus on is your puppy’s sleeping and house-training routines. Quick responses to commands like Sit and Come are important (and you’ll learn about early puppy conditioning in Chapter 7), but your initial focus is on helping your puppy adapt to your schedule and getting comfortable living with you.\n\nTo avoid overstimulating your puppy or blowing your budget before the puppy has cut their baby teeth, remember that less is more, at least initially. Though you may have the temptation to buy everything you can for your pup — from the latest toy to a designer raincoat — I suggest that you bring a list and stick to it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 91, "chunk_index": 97, "id": "2a82c19c-8bab-46ae-92d2-ae2d0c01f620", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy needs a safe place, like a crate, enclosure or small gated pen for sleep and a free-play room to call their own. Puppy-proof these places by removing any “mouthables” (items that a young puppy can grab, chew, or choke on), and decide where you’ll sit and what you’ll do when supervising your puppy for the first few days they’re home — more about this in Chapter 7!\n\nI strongly advise using a crate for house-training and chew training; it’s also the best place for your pup to rest during the day and sleep at night. Think of it less as a cage and more as a bedroom. You’ll find tips in the next several sections to help your puppy bond with their room.\n\nA gate can be used to blockade a door and prevent your puppy’s passage from room to room or on a stairway. Gates come in handy when you want to\n\n» Enclose your puppy in a room when you’re around to supervise or play with them » Control your puppy’s access to dangerous or off-limits rooms and stairs » Teach your puppy that people, food, and fun happen only when they’re calm. (Do not enter the free-play area until your puppy is sitting calmly or engaging with a toy.)\n\nSome people feel less guilty when leaving their puppies in large gated areas rather than in small rooms or crates. Big mistake. Big rooms make a puppy feel displaced and lonely so that they may potty or chew out of sheer anxiety. Dogs are den animals who feel safest in small, manageable spaces. If your goal is peaceful\n\nFIGURE 5-1: A playpen is a safe and portable place for your puppy to stay.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 98, "id": "c54d88ee-e2ec-4281-a1b7-70e5b61b84d2", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "separations, enclose your puppy in a crate or small enclosure when you leave for more than a few minutes. If you’re leaving for more than six hours, consider the playpen as a happy medium and hire a dog walker to break up their day. See the next section for more info on playpens.\n\nA playpen — essentially, a movable enclosure — is quite the multifunctional purchase. It can be used to\n\n» Acclimate the puppy to other pets by keeping them apart until they’re\n\n» Contain your puppy when you can’t watch them » Keep your puppy from wandering about large, open rooms » Paper-train them, if that’s your goal » Contain them outside temporarily\n\nA folding playpen (see Figure 5-1) can be tucked away or transported easily.\n\nTeach your puppy to stay calm for greetings from day one. One of the first lessons your puppy will learn is how to act when people approach you. Anytime you approach the gate or playpen, or whenever you’re letting your puppy out of their crate, pause. Ignore your puppy if their jumping, squirming, or vocalizing. Do not engage them until they’re calmly standing on all four paws.\n\nYes, some dog crates look like oversized guinea pig cages, but the truth is that your puppy, with the right conditioning, will love their crate like a child loves their bed. The trick is in the training! Make positive crate training one of your first goals — you’ll find it especially useful during the early stages of potty and sleep training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 99, "id": "14ee7efa-8a20-40ea-a2a2-36c6aa38d202", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "Because you’ll want your puppy to sleep and nap in their crate, put it in a quiet room with little traffic. Ideally, your puppy should sleep near someone at night, so your bedroom is a good location. Keep the shades in the crate room drawn during the day. If you find it inconvenient to traipse through your home to an upstairs crate during the day, buy two crates — one for the bedroom and another to place close to your front door.\n\nHere are a few things you can do to make your puppy’s crate a little cozier:\n\n» Have a stuffed animal or another dog toy waiting. The Snuggle Puppy, for example, comes equipped with a heartbeat and hot water bottle to radiate the feeling of sleeping with other puppies.\n\n» Prepare a docking station or CD player to play music when your puppy is left alone. Dogs don’t like silence in general and may grow anxious of distant noises they can’t explore. The point of music is to drown out the sounds of silence and help your puppy tolerate on being alone.\n\n» Install light-blocking binds to create a den-like atmosphere at night\n\n» Provide a pacifier equivalent. Hollowed-out toys stuffed with kibbles\n\n» Induce calm and sleeping by adding a crate cover. The first goal with quiet time is to teach your puppy how to relax and soothe themselves when no one can be with them.\n\nFor the first weeks after you have your puppy home, help them pattern sleep rou- tines. (See more about this topic in Chapter 7.) After your puppy establishes good sleeping habits, begin to vary their nap locations by moving their crate or playpen to different rooms of your home or by tethering your puppy near you as described in Chapter 7.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 94, "chunk_index": 100, "id": "3b053cf9-aa20-4df7-bc25-ed2ddf260eb8", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "Still not sold on crating your puppy when you’re out or can’t be watching them? Think about it this way: Giving your pup their own special place to play and rest is synonymous with giving a child their own bed and tucking them in when it’s time to rest. You wouldn’t make a child sleep on the floor in the middle of a large room, would you? Your puppy will appreciate having their safe place.\n\nWhen you shop for a crate, you’ll find all sorts of different sizes, materials, and colors. Should you get a divider or leave space for potty paper? Should the sides be covered or open for air flow? Here’s the scoop:\n\n» Plastic crates are standard for travel and can also be used as everyday crates.\n\nIf you plan to travel with your pup, buy this type.\n\n» Wire crates allow for better airflow and viewing and can be covered with a blanket at night to create a more den-like experience. Dividers are also available to size the crate according to your puppy’s size.\n\n» A wicker, wood, or canvas crate is less of an eyesore than other models. However, you have to pray that after you pay top dollar, the puppy won’t decide to chew their way out.\n\nA crate can be an invaluable training tool. It’s ideal when\n\n» You’re leaving a puppy alone for a duration of time not to exceed 3 hours for\n\npuppies younger than 4 months old or 6 hours for older puppies.\n\n» You’re teaching a young or mischievous puppy who isn’t house-trained to\n\n» You’re feeding an easily distracted puppy. » An overly excitable pup needs a timeout. In this case, don’t use the crate as a form of punishment; simply lead your puppy there with a toy and toss treats in the back section of the crate as you calmly guide your puppy in.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 95, "chunk_index": 101, "id": "cd3a6c41-dcda-44d9-ad0e-15c63a3f24a8", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "A crate does have some drawbacks, however. It can be emotionally destructive to your puppy if it’s overused, because puppies are social creatures and aren’t accus- tomed to long spells of isolation. Left alone regularly for more than 4 to 6 hours often results in hyperisolation anxiety — a lonely puppy who’s overreactive and hyper, in other words. If you must leave your puppy for long stretches, consider a playpen-crate combination.\n\nA crate isn’t a teaching tool. Your puppy needs lessons from you to learn how to act in all areas of your home and in everyday situations, such as mealtimes and family interactions and when people come to visit.\n\nIf the idea of a crate still turns your stomach, you have other options. To contain your puppy when you’re not home (necessary for house-training and to teach your puppy to rest when you’re not home), you can use a playpen or a very small, gated room. If your puppy is older, you can use a leash to keep your puppy with you when you’re home and show them how to act in the rooms you share.\n\nThough playpens are ideal enclosures for young puppies under 12 weeks of age, and can be used to supervise a puppy in multiple areas of a home, they begin to lose their magic when your puppy reaches 4 months of age. At this time your puppy won’t want to be separated from you, and the use of a playpen may lead to excessive barking or frustration chewing. Hopefully, by this time you’ll have a handle on house-training and can begin to give your puppy more freedom in supervised areas.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 95, "chunk_index": 102, "id": "4ed3bff0-17e7-4f8b-a035-02c534b9a06c", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "Even though you’ll find some adorable and comfy dog beds on the market, resist the urge to buy a collection until your puppy is house-trained and past the chew- ing phase: Either habit can make waste of your cozy purchase.\n\nMeanwhile create a comforting area in each room you share that your puppy will look for and return to each time they enter it. Lay down a flat mat, towel or blan- ket, spreading them near your sitting areas to help your puppy identify their place. Place chew toys and bones on their mat to create a calm vibe.\n\nIf the puppy has a strong chewing tendency, skip the bedding altogether. Ingested blankets and towels can cause serious intestinal problems in puppies.\n\nTake your pup’s mat with you wherever you go. It helps your puppy feel safe and at home whether their visiting the vet, staying at the kennel, or riding along on a family trip. It’s like having a security blanket.\n\nOrganized feeding times in organized places is a relatively new phenomenon in the dog-human relationship; dogs used to spend their days poking about and looking for food outside or patiently waiting for discarded table scraps. The issue with feeding your puppy at a set hour and all at once is that they will grow restless and excited near their designated mealtime and then be rewarded with a big jack- pot of food for annoying behavior. Instead, consider feeding your puppy their daily ration of food throughout the morning or late afternoon, using the food to reward their attention and patience. I tell you more about early puppy training and socialization in Chapter 9.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 96, "chunk_index": 103, "id": "d38e2547-8402-4601-867b-eaccded1733b", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Doggie mealtime is a purely human concept. Yes, it’s more convenient to feed your puppy in a bowl, but when you’re able, portion out meals into reward pockets or treat cups and use the food to motivate good habits, such as coming when called, chewing toys on their mat, or pottying in the proper place.\n\nFor now, purchase a few bowls to start — two for water and one to contain your puppy’s meals. Keep bowls for water inside the house and out, but sequester your puppy’s food dish to control and vary feeding locations based on your early social- ization efforts. For example, you may choose to feed them on their comfort mat one day, saying “On your mat” as you lead them there; in their crate the next day, saying “In your room”; and in the car another day, saying “To the car.” Meals are powerful motivators and are useful in conditioning and socializing your puppy during the first month you spend together.\n\nAs for the type of bowl, stainless steel is ideal because it’s easy to clean, it doesn’t break, and its weight reduces the chance of the bowl being knocked over. Size the bowl to your puppy’s breed: small, medium, or large.\n\nYou can buy bowls with stands that raise the dish to make eating more ergonomi- cally comfortable and that are advertised to help prevent bloat (which they do not). These bowls certainly make eating look more comfortable, but they aren’t totally necessary, because dogs are physically designed to be ground-level feeders.\n\nBloat is a fairly common and fatal dog disease if not caught immediately. Caused by gas, the stomach presses on the diaphragm and twists, cutting off all circula- tion. Learn about the signs and symptoms and avoid the number-one cause of bloat — exercise directly after eating a large meal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 97, "chunk_index": 104, "id": "892c3852-1d5b-422b-a45f-32e632902eed", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Sometimes dogs do the darnedest things, like carrying their food dish to private locations or burying their food (or attempting to, anyway) in cushions and rugs. Modern convenience is lost on some dogs, who still like to interact with their food instead of gobbling it up in one sitting.\n\nYour puppy will repeat behaviors that get your attention, food, and fun. The sim- plest way to motivate your young puppy’s good manners and routines is to reward positive choices — sitting for attention, for example, or standing on all four paws instead of jumping. In addition, if you praise, pat, or play with your puppy each time they make a good chewing choice, you’ll save yourself a lot of destruction in the long run. The following sections present other tips to get your new puppy started on the road to good behavior from the moment you adopt them.\n\nA food reward is often the best way to encourage your puppy’s focus and make a positive association with learning. If your puppy’s excited for the dry food you’ve chosen to feed them, look no further. Ration out all or a portion of each meal, and divide that amount into treat cups or reward pockets (as described in the following list).\n\nIf you feed your puppy moist or raw food or they don’t excite to their kibble, find another type of treat that gets them excited. Remember that your enthusiasm with the treat is more important than the amount or size of the food reward. Here are two great ways to use food to train and motivate your puppy’s earliest learning:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 97, "chunk_index": 105, "id": "05f6c979-72c6-4d06-a3a2-a2d17f48576f", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "» Treat cups: Keeping your puppy’s treats in a specific container helps them\n\nconnect the sound of the shaking cup with a food reward, which is a valuable training tool. (I discuss this training technique in Chapter 10.) To create a treat cup for your puppy, purchase an inexpensive plastic container (or use an emptied deli container), cut a small, round hole in the lid, and fill it halfway with dried kibbles or broken-up dog treats.\n\n» Reward pockets: Place your puppy’s treats in one of your pockets or\n\npurchase a food pouch to stow snacks. With food bits at the ready, indoors and out, teach and reward your puppy whenever the opportunity knocks. Did they sit before you opened the door or go to their mat or crate — reward them as you say “Good puppy!” Are they nervous going down the stairs? A few tidbits tossed on the ground may be all the incentive they need to try a little harder. Use meals or treats for rewarding your puppy for returning to you and for outdoor pottying. Check out Chapter 10 for more uses of reward pockets.\n\nAlthough you may be tempted to buy every toy and bone available to you, don’t! Puppies, like children, have specific likes and dislikes, and overwhelming your pup with options is disruptive. They’ll grow up thinking everything on the floor is fair game — even your beloved, oh-so-broken-in slippers. Keep in mind, though, that a new puppy will spend their first few days nosing about and won’t be interested in interactive play for another two to four weeks.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 98, "chunk_index": 106, "id": "444a1afa-f2cb-4cc2-8de3-b539a8774a68", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Many people, myself included, swear by objects that can be stuffed with moist- ened kibbles and frozen, or a mix of kibble and a creamy spread that can be safely left in your puppy’s enclosure to soothe their chewing impulse each time it strikes. Some puppies can’t figure it out at first, so show yours how to explore the con- tents by digging out a little of it with your finger. Puppies learn from mimicking,\n\nand nothing is more fun than discovering food and rewards locked inside a stuffed bone. When cleared of foods, this toy can be tossed in the air or chewed, making it the ultimate 3-in-1 object.\n\nToys come in as many different shapes as you’d find in a high school geometry book, so prepare yourself. Puppies like objects that bounce, squeak, and roll. You’ll have plenty of selection, and, for the record, your puppy won’t mind if you choose a bird squeak or a fox, or a red ball or a blue one — it just needs to bounce, roll or squeak (or all three) and you’re all set. Choose a couple of toys to discover what captures your puppy’s heart, and look no further.\n\nStuffed toys can be great fun for puppies who think of them as small prey animals, especially when they squeak. Some puppies, however, go beyond the toss- and-play mode and insist on ripping them from limb from limb until the squeaker is removed. This isn’t an ideal game for puppies, because squeakers can be dan- gerous when you remove them, and the stuffing can be ingested. Search for toys with the word indestructible on the packaging.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 98, "chunk_index": 107, "id": "fad8a31b-47ef-4112-89eb-7ac000e5114e", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies love interactive games, especially as they mature. Tug is a great game for puppies and can be used to teach your puppy to Give on command, as well as learning what is and isn’t okay to tug on — your hair or slippers, for example. Here’s a quick lesson on playing tug with a young puppy:\n\n» Start with a rope or doggie play pole, which can also be fashioned out of a\n\n» Bounce the toy in front of your puppy or wait until they show interest in\n\nplaying with it. Reward their interest by saying “Tug” and providing resistance. » Take a smelly food treat in your hand (like liver, hot dog, or jerky-type treat)\n\n» Let your puppy have the toy back right away and continue playing or say “You\n\nSoon your puppy will learn that sharing and releasing toys means more fun and interaction, not less.\n\nWhen picking out self-soothing toys for your puppy (objects they can play with alone), keep the analogy of giving a child your smartphone to keep them busy when you’re present but not accessible. Self-soothing objects come in many forms: What calms your puppy best?\n\nThough you generally can’t go wrong with indestructible plastic bones, some puppies find them, well, boring. Rawhide, which is made in America, is a satisfy- ing chew, but it’s problematic with some dogs who chew obsessively because they gulp it as they go and can choke or get indigestion. Destructible bones also cost money to replace — just saying.\n\nPersonally, my clients have had the most luck with pressed rawhide, animal-part sticks (hooves and bully sticks), and vegetable-matter pulp bones. Test out a few kinds yourself to find a bone that satisfies your puppy’s craving and that can pass the “systems” test (their digestive system, that is); then buy it in bulk.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 99, "chunk_index": 108, "id": "a2bc1fa8-956b-4d1b-b90f-23d52d5cbdd9", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies love a challenge, so use puzzle toys to keep them busy and on their toes. As you might expect, you have plenty of store-bought options when it comes to puzzle toys, but you can come up with your own pretty easily. Here are a few ideas:\n\n» Place food in a muffin tray, and then cover the tidbits with a ball. » Fill a hard plastic bottle with food. » Toss treats onto the carpet or ground as you encourage your puppy to play\n\nSome puzzle toys are safe enough to leave in your puppy’s enclosure to keep their mind and spirits occupied when you leave them alone.\n\nFreedom lines (indoor and out), collars, and early leash skills\n\nFor your puppy’s homecoming, you need to purchase only two leashes: a short, lightweight nylon leash that your puppy will drag behind them (for easy and calm redirection) for indoors and a long freedom line for outdoor playtime in open areas (away from streets) and, later, for advanced training. You can purchase a lightweight mesh harness or thin, adjustable nylon collar (also known as a buckle collar). Buckle collars don’t slide or choke. Their purpose is to carry\n\nyour puppy’s ID tags. (For more on collar conditioning and leash training, check out Chapter 11.)\n\nSmall-breed puppies are fragile, and their throats are particularly sensitive to the restraint of a collar. Although the collar is important for sporting an ID tag, if you have a small puppy, attach any leashes to a harness instead of a collar.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 100, "chunk_index": 109, "id": "0ecb9dcd-b2a3-463a-9e23-f3202e3744f1", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Freedom line is a fancy term for a lightweight lead (leash) that your puppy can drag behind them. You can make or purchase this lightweight leash and let your puppy wear it whenever you’re together in the house or yard. Ideal for dragging behind your puppy, the light weight lead gives them a sense of freedom while your super- vision ensures their safety. Stay close to the line so that you can easily redirect your puppy or guide them from one activity to another without stress or frustra- tion, whether the activity you want to avoid is jumping on the counters, chasing another animal, digging up a plant, or nipping at the kids.\n\nThe indoor drag leash should be 4 feet long and be attached to your puppy’s buckle collar (or harness, in the case of small-breed puppies). When giving your puppy freedom outside, use a 25- to 50-foot-long lead to allow them freedom to play while giving you plenty of leash to interfere with a rambunctious puppy and/or hold onto to retrieve them if they should wander off. For young puppies, long lines are great for wandering in a yard or field — take along some favorite snacks and reward your puppy every time they “check in” with you. You can also use long lines to encourage off-lead training as your puppy matures.\n\nI discuss training leashes used on older puppies in the section “Exploring Future Needs, Modern Gadgets, and Training Tools,” later in this chapter. For now, let your puppy explore on a drag lead or long line so that their first experiences of walking with you doesn’t involve you choking them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 101, "chunk_index": 110, "id": "0f396cb4-9dd2-4b12-82d6-f7ec03b28f26", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Your veterinarian and breeder are likely to suggest that you microchip your puppy, and I also strongly recommend it. Your veterinarian can inject into your puppy’s neck or shoulder (no more painful than a typical shot) a preregistered, computer-recognizable identification chip. If your puppy gets lost or ends up at a shelter, a simple wave of the wand reads the embedded information (typically, your contact info) so that your puppy can be returned to you. Many breeders have a microchip inserted in each puppy’s shoulder before sending them home. If your pup isn’t one of them, make an appoint- ment immediately.\n\nWhen your puppy is conditioned to a collar, you can secure an ID tag to it. Some national-chain pet stores now have machines that create personalized tags in minutes. You can also find fancy ID tags online: Search the Internet for the phrase ID tags for dogs. I find that the best message to write is Need meds! Help me home [555-555-5555]. Of course, your pup probably won’t need meds, but this message discourages would-be dognappers and stresses the urgency of getting your puppy back home if someone finds them straying. I recommend using an ID tag in addi- tion to a microchip because people can’t identify the information on the microchip without the appropriate device.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 101, "chunk_index": 111, "id": "262e0d97-2fef-41b6-bafb-76cd55b8ca6e", "word_count": 217, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 282 } }, { "page_content": "Your biggest efforts in the early days will be house-training your puppy and social- izing them to everything your life has to offer. Though your veterinarian will rightly advise you against walking your puppy into town until they’ve had their inocula- tions, this doesn’t mean you can’t carry them about in a sling or carrier or take them along on short car rides. The whole socialization process, from meeting new people to conditioning to loud sounds to getting your pet accustomed to all the nuances of your life, is so important that I’ve devoted an entire chapter (Chapter 9) to it.\n\nMeanwhile, here are a few products you may choose to get a head start on the socialization routine. Two of the options involve carrying your puppy, something only you know whether you can do. If your puppy is a miniaturized breed, remem- ber that life can seem quite overwhelming when you’re on the ground. Nestling near to your heart in a sling or curling up in a carrier provides an extra buffer of safety and helps in all your early socialization efforts. Puppies initially startle to unfamiliar noises and, without their birth family to reference, can develop fear if they’re not comfortably contained.\n\nThe objects described in the next four sections come in various sizes, shapes, and colors. Read the reviews and reference the sizing charts to help you decide which ones to purchase.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 102, "chunk_index": 112, "id": "3415e523-a4b4-4efa-8f2c-95b6fba659b1", "word_count": 235, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 305 } }, { "page_content": "I’m a big fan of the sling, no matter what the species. A sling rides over your shoulder and allows you to tuck your puppy into the pouch when they’re in a calm mood so that you can keep your puppy close when conditioning them to new sights and sounds or when moving about your home or building. To accustom your puppy to the sling, lay it flat in or near their sleeping area and hide food in the folds, so they can smell, explore, and find treasure in it. To familiarize them with your smell, put a shirt in the pouch, too.\n\nMost puppies are transitioning from full-time companionship with littermates to a singleton lifestyle in your home. Though you don’t want to carry them about full time, lest they develop an overdependence on your presence, using a sling to con- dition them to your lifestyle and to socialize them in the world beyond can be as reassuring as it is convenient.\n\nIf you have other pets agitated by seeing a newbie having so much direct contact, make a different selection from the products in the following sections.\n\nSmall travel kennels, especially if you plan to travel with your adult dog, should be conditioned early and used to provide your puppy with a feeling of safety. Condi- tion your puppy to their carrier by sprinkling food, treats, and toys around them in the carrier. If your puppy is wary, you may also unzip the openings and play in and around it.\n\nThe sooner you get started with the carrier, the faster your puppy will grow to accept that being in it means more time with you. Use the carrier as you would a sling — to transport your puppy about, slowly conditioning them to the sights, smells, and sounds in and about your home. More socializing tips in Chapter 9.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 102, "chunk_index": 113, "id": "9f76fb97-89f0-49e4-a43c-f6d009974a96", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy will start communicating with you and signaling their needs by 12 weeks, and sometimes even younger. To get a jump start on the process, hang a bell by the outside door or by the gate that leads to the papered area if you are training your puppy to potty inside. (Flip to Chapter 14 for tips on house-training your puppy.) Tap the bell every time you take your puppy to potty. Your puppy will learn the system and tap the bell themselves whenever they want to be let into the potty area. Pretty nifty! Here are a couple of other bell systems that work:\n\n» If you have a fenced yard, hang a bell on the outside door to encourage your puppy to ring it to come in. This will save you the hassle of replacing screens or listening to your dog bark when you can’t get to the door immediately. » Have a bell by the main water dish. Tap it for each refill and watch as your dog\n\nFor more on teaching your puppy to ring a bell to go to their potty area, check out Chapter 14.\n\nExploring Future Needs, Modern Gadgets, and Training Tools\n\nAs your puppy gets older, they’ll develop in ways you can’t imagine. Sure, they’ll grow like a rose, but, like a child, your puppy will shed their inhibitions and become more confident and curious by the day. You may notice that your puppy listens less, explores more, and tests the boundaries of their everyday interactions with you.\n\nThough you won’t need any of the items listed in the following sections for the homecoming, you can read about what you’ll need in the future or mark these pages for later consideration.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 103, "chunk_index": 114, "id": "7c2e9ddf-7014-4b07-8f9f-4386f5c82017", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "After your puppy gets settled into your home and is old enough to socialize around town and with other dogs and people (which happens around 16 weeks of age), you’ll need to bone up on the leash training and choose the right type of body restraint. Neck collars were the norm until very recently, when they were shown to have stressful effects, especially when placed on young puppies. Imagine being led about by a necklace: you’d pull away and feel trapped, too (a phenomenon known as oppositional reflex). Unless you’re a pro with leash training and you have your timing down to a science, consider using compassion wear, which conditions your puppy to walk near you through a system of guiding, not jerking or pulling. These user-friendly collars require little to no strength to control and allow you to focus on positive reinforcement to encourage your puppy’s focus and cooperation. The two types of conditioning collars are no-pull harnesses and head collars.\n\nYou can reference my website, SarahSaysPets.com, for photos and video clips specifying leash use and collar options.\n\nStick to buckle collars and freedom lines when guiding puppies younger than 4 months old. Other types of collars restrict your puppy’s breathing and teach them that walking near you is uncomfortable.\n\nI’ve found a few types of no-pull harness designs that are effective in encouraging good following skills in puppies. A harness that loops around the front of the puppy’s body is also an ideal system for puppies of all sizes and can be used safely if a puppy’s neck is too fragile to bear the resistance of a neck collar.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 104, "chunk_index": 115, "id": "2db7c550-f425-4b2d-b9bd-5870e15a8d2e", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "FIGURE 5-2: A front-attached, easy-walking conditioning harness.\n\nThis type of harness braces your puppy across their chest. The leash clips in front of your dog’s chest and restrains their forward momentum as you lead them for- ward. It may look and seem awkward at first, but it works amazingly well after it’s fitted properly. Some puppies get distracted by the leash and grab for the strap incessantly, but most pups learn to accept the restraint in a couple of walks. (Figure 5-2 shows one of these harnesses.)\n\nIf your young puppy is one obsessed by the leash dangling in front of their face, wait awhile before attaching the leash to the front clip: Most grow out of this obsession by 4 months old. You can either start out with a mesh neck collar first and then transition to a harness or flip the front clip harness so that the leash attachment rests between the shoulder blades rather than on the chest (a trick not possible on every version of the front clip design — see if it works with yours).\n\nA head collar is like a horse halter for dogs. It can be used from the start — even with puppies as young as 12 weeks of age. It’s a nonconfrontational conditioning tool that encourages cooperation and good following skills.\n\nYou may think this collar looks like a muzzle when you first see it, but it’s not. Puppies can eat, chew, and play happily while sporting a head collar; it simply eliminates internal or external pressure around the neck.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 105, "chunk_index": 116, "id": "4e624310-2466-4e69-b727-c6f7fb770171", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "How does this wonder collar work? It works on the “mommy” principle: When your puppy was very young, their mom would correct them by grasping their muzzle and shaking it. This communicated the statement, “Hey, wild one, settle down!” The head collar has the same effect. Left on during play, the pressure on the nose discourages rowdiness and mouthing. By placing a short lead on your puppy when you’re expecting company, you can effectively curb jumping habits. Barking frenzies are drastically reduced, and training is made simple as you guide your puppy from one exercise to the next. Another plus is that leading by the chin demands minimal physical strength, so nearly everyone can use it — kids too. (See an example in Figure 5-3.)\n\nFIGURE 5-3: After your puppy is used to the nose strap, you’ll be able to guide them like a horse on a halter.\n\nHow often you should leave the head collar on is a question best answered by your puppy. If yours is relatively well behaved, you can use it exclusively during walks and lessons. If they’re the mouthing, jumping, or barking type, leave the collar on whenever you’re able to supervise them.\n\nThe head collar must fit properly around your puppy’s neck. If it’s too loose, your puppy can pull it off and perhaps chew it. You want the neck strap to fit snuggly, with one finger’s worth of space between the neck and the strap. (My website, SarahSaysPets.com, offers a short video on sizing the head collar and putting it on.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 117, "id": "87f1413e-7b74-4c0c-9f87-66b5c32edc1a", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "If you give this collar a try, you may have to tolerate some resistance. Initially, puppies don’t love the idea of a head collar. Their reaction reminds me of the first day my mother dressed me in lace — I hated it, but after an hour or so, I hardly noticed it at all. And your puppy will learn to tolerate the head collar. When you see them flopping about like a flounder, be patient. After they realize that they\n\ncan’t remove the collar, they’ll forget about it. Some puppies take an hour to adjust to the feel of the collar; some take a day or two. Place it on their head three times a day for 20-minute intervals until they accept it.\n\nNeck wear collars, also known as choke or prong collars, are available but not rec- ommended for modern-day dogs and dog lovers. The idea behind a neck wear collar is that it applies pressure around the dog’s neck when the dog strays, bolts, or chooses to explore in another direction. This causes a feeling of entrapment or worse, affixation, which leaves a dog feeling more stressed by situations like seeing another dog or walking with you. Long term? Neck collars do more harm than good.\n\nIf you’re confident that you can guide your puppy by their neck, choose a check chain or martingale collar. This collar slides over your puppy’s head and rests high on the neck, just behind their ears. The check chain has a section of chain that should be centered between your puppy’s ears. The martingale is a cloth collar that is especially useful with long-necked dog breeds because it has a wide midsection that distributes the weight of your pull.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 118, "id": "aa8ca3e1-3903-4b8f-807b-a13619aa664e", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "I rarely encourage the check chain or martingale collar because it often pits the owner’s strength against the puppy, and the puppy is left pulling against the owner’s grip instead of walking with them.\n\nIn the long, intertwined history of people and dogs, the leash and leash walking are relatively new inventions, designed for convenience and safety. When out walking with their dogs, humans tend to go in straight lines, confident in the belief that they are in charge because they are holding the leash. But restricted, linear walks are unnatural to puppies, who prefer to meander and explore. Your puppy will pull on the leash in an effort to increase the meandering. You will pull back, increasing the restricting. This combination of pulling away and pulling back puts pressure on your puppy’s collar, and they’ll start to choke and feel very, very anxious.\n\nWalks should bring about the calm you experience when walking hand in hand with someone you care deeply about. It’s a learned habit: Getting it right takes some practice and the right leash and training restraint. The following sections have some tips about finding the right equipment; be sure to review the earlier section on freedom lines and the joy your puppy feels when exploring naturally.\n\nAs your puppy matures, they’ll be less tolerant of being left alone. If they’re still too curious to turn loose in your home, it’s time to begin leash training. (Flip to Chapter 7 for specific instructions.) After your puppy is comfortable on a leash, guide them room by room using a 4- to 6-foot leash that you can hold or clip to your side.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 107, "chunk_index": 119, "id": "58a03fc8-bed6-45ad-9ee3-38969dba9800", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "When it comes to starting these walkabouts, the sooner you move beyond the confines of the kitchen, the better. I recommend no later than 12 weeks of age, but remember to take your puppy to potty before exploring together.\n\nAfter you’ve taught your puppy the basics of cooperative walking skills indoors, begin to use the training leash outdoors. Vary between the freedom line and the training leash so that your puppy learns to understand the difference by the weight of the leash.\n\nWhen practicing your puppy’s walking skills on a training leash, stop whenever your puppy pulls and wait until they turn or walk back to you or sits to begin walking again. If your puppy does circle back to your side, drop a treat inches from your shoes and say “Find it” to reinforce the decision to check in.\n\nWhen driving a little puppy under 16 weeks old in a car, use a small crate to encourage calm manners and for safety purposes. As the puppy matures, continue leading them to one door and area of your car; if crating a large dog as you drive isn’t feasible, consider using a safety harness and/or seat belt attachment when you drive.\n\nA seat belt safety lead can be used in the car or left secured to your puppy’s collar for easy guidance when you’re out and about. Letting your puppy ride in your lap or hang their body halfway out the window when you drive may seem fun, but it’s a bad idea. Here’s my rule: Confine your puppy while driving. It’s safer for you, your puppy, and other motorists.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 120, "id": "dad5eed0-a71c-4c4a-b89b-a5d86750dadb", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "A retractable leash is fun when used in the right setting, such as meandering on a beach or in an open field. The longer, the better. Initially, this leash is great for exercising. Your puppy can run like mad while you stand there reading the morn- ing newspaper. When you progress to off-leash work (see Chapter 13), the retract- able leash is a staple.\n\nDon’t use a retractable leash near roads or heavily populated areas. Its high-tech design takes getting used to, and even a seasoned pro can lose hold of the slack. If you’re out with other people, watch their legs. If a person gets sandwiched between you and your prancing puppy, they’re in for a rope burn.\n\nPuppies have been shown to respond to learning games and clicker training as young as 7 weeks old, so feel free to begin these lessons now. Anything that encourages your puppy to repeat activities like pottying in the right place, chew- ing on their toys instead of yours, or going to their mat is a good thing.\n\nIf you’ve never formally been introduced to the clicker, allow me: This small, handheld device (see Figure 5-4) makes a sharp clicking sound each time it’s pressed. Pair this sound with a food reward and you’ll discover power that would make Pavlov proud. Your puppy will alert to the sound, and when they connect this noise with a food reward, they’ll be prompted to repeat whatever action makes it click. Use the clicker properly to condition good behavior in mere sec- onds. Sounds too good to be true, right? It isn’t, and you can get started with pup- pies of any age. Check out Chapter 11 for more tips on how to use your clicker to help your puppy use good habits.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 121, "id": "1ec43ab2-6330-4de7-a18d-5869554c4fa8", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "Teaching your puppy to go to their targeting discs is a fun and useful way to teach your puppy lessons like Go to Your Place and Stay. You can purchase discs or make them out of a heavyweight paper or the top of a plastic container. This technique requires some ingenuity and patience until your puppy catches on — then prepare yourself for some fast-paced excitement. Check out Chapter 11 for more tips on how to use a targeting disc (and how to play the Lily Pad game).\n\nThink of a targeting stick as a long finger. Purchase a fancy one (some have click- ers built into them) or use a kitchen utensil or toy wand. Once you’ve chosen your targeting stick, teach your puppy to mark the end of the stick by rewarding their interest. Check out Chapter 9 for more tips on how to use a targeting stick to help direct and socialize your puppy.\n\nAre you a tech-head? Don’t let adopting a puppy slow you down. Check out the options described in this section for products that can make your life and your puppy’s life safer, organized, and more fun.\n\nNever attach anything to your puppy that delivers a shock, spray, or vibrating sensation. Marketed as training tools, these items are inhumane and have lasting effects on your puppy’s otherwise trusting and cheerful demeanor. Outlawed in many countries, using these battery-operated items is a big no-no.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 122, "id": "17ed2f93-170b-4868-9a63-91ef389a9f25", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "These devices allow you to watch, record, or interact with your puppy when you can’t be with them. After purchasing the camera, you’ll be instructed to download an app to your phone or tablet. The camera allows you to interact in a variety of ways, from talking to your puppy to dispensing treats, food, or water. A new one allows video chats. Though a camera is convenient and nifty, remember that nothing truly takes the place of your being home. Too much interruption from virtual you may cause anxiety — whereas, left alone, most puppies are quite able to cope with isolation by chewing from a selection of appropriate toys.\n\nI often ask my digital clients from around the world to record their puppies’ behavior and share these clips with me before sessions; I send video back (using my dogs, of course), sharing protocols that are as effective as they are fun.\n\nThese devices can be programmed to allow your dog access to food and fresh water at set times throughout the day. Though fresh water can never be argued with, feeding devices should only be used in a pinch. Meals are better used as rewards for good behavior and offered during social times when you and your puppy are together.\n\nI love a good treat dispenser — it has so many uses. If your dog suffers from iso- lation anxiety that leads to barking or destruction when left alone, consider a device that can be preprogrammed to dispense food when they settle on their mat and stop barking. These machines can also be used when you’re home to teach your puppy to stay on the mat or to settle down during greetings. App-controlled as well as personalized to release treats when barking stops, a treat dispenser is one conditioning tool that few homes should be without.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 123, "id": "6a4c6e77-d5e8-424e-a836-7eacc8c21dd3", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "If the thought of losing your dog keeps you up at night, purchase a tracking collar and rest easy. This device is linked to an app on your phone and allows you to trace your puppy’s whereabouts inside and out.\n\nWhy stop to scoop when motorized devices or mini robots can scan your yard and clean up the poops for you. I’ve seen these in action — brilliant!\n\nI dare you to search for the term hamster wheel for dogs. You’re going to get an eye- ful. If exercising your puppy inside appeals to you, you’ll have many options, whether you settle on a treadmill or a self-paced running wheel. (Yes, a running wheel looks exactly like a giant hamster wheel for dogs.)\n\nMechanized brush, hair remover, and bathing apparatus\n\nIf settling on a traditional dog brush and using your sink or shower head to bathe your puppy sound a little boring to you, modern inventions that make bath time\n\nzippier and sometimes less stressful await! From circular shower heads to full-body hair dryers and brushes that do most of the work for you, your puppy will be the best-groomed dog on the block. Just take good care to condition your puppy to the feel and sound of these devices before using them. See Chapter 17 for tips.\n\nYour puppy won’t like silence and will sleep better with noise. New studies show that dogs respond best to calming noises versus variety in voice and sound. What better way to ensure that your puppy hears calming sounds than to purchase or download music specially created for their ears only?\n\nThe light-up leash and collar sound like just what they are: Either is a great way to keep track and provide safety in traffic when out after dark.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 111, "chunk_index": 124, "id": "6e4fa39b-ef05-466b-ad51-e55fc59c6791", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "Think Fitbit for dogs. Easily clipped to your puppy’s collar, this item lets you track and record your puppy’s daily activity.\n\nAll these gadgets, and more, are available just about everywhere you’d normally shop for your puppy products; read reviews before making any purchase to ensure that the one you buy is reliable.\n\nIntroducing your puppy to friends, family and other pets\n\nLearning all about the exciting new science of modern\n\nWhen I began teaching dogs and people, 30-some-odd years ago, there\n\nwas no research supporting any of it. Anyone calling their puppy “baby” got an eye roll from the scientific community who declared that dogs were biological automatons, incapable of thought, reason, or attachment. How far we’ve come! Nowadays, dogs are the hot new research model, and it’s the profes- sionals who are shouting, “Dogs think, feel, and have complex reasoning ability.” As if we didn’t know. In this chapter you find out about the latest and greatest discoveries in dog science and see how it confirms what you already knew in your heart.\n\nIn the pages ahead, you’ll also find essential tips, from organizing a routine schedule and inspiring healthy sleep habits to shaping your puppy’s earliest memories of you and motivating associations to words like Sit, Stay, and Come.\n\nThat all sounds pretty neat, but truly the best thing science has done for us has been to demonstrate beyond a reasonable doubt that our dogs, even as young", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 112, "chunk_index": 125, "id": "36010914-0bb3-44a8-9ed7-e7c693eaaa02", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "puppies, respond best to calm direction, routines, and praise. As you’ll discover if you haven’t already, your puppy has an uncanny ability to recognize and respond to you in ways that resemble the attachment between parents and children; just being around your puppy creates loving feelings. (In science-speak, our bodies release the loving hormone oxytocin). So, doesn’t it make sense that we treat these sensitive, intelligent creatures kindly? Dogs — like kids — raised with com- passion and respect grow up happy. And happy is good.\n\nThe word anthropomorphic gets tossed around a lot in the dog world. It’s a fancy term for our very human tendency to project our feelings onto other animals. It’s a no-no according to many, but a little anthropomorphizing could be a not- so-horrible thing if it keeps people from being too harsh or cruel with their dog- gies. After all, it’s science that’s telling us of the similarities between puppies and little kids. I’ll show you how to balance your anthropomorphic impulses with the realities of what makes your puppy separate and unique.\n\nDog training methods are like parenting philosophies: You can choose from lots of different approaches, and what works for one kid may not work for another. Thanks to science, more and more professionals are swinging to the proven stud- ies demonstrating that dogs actually learn best when routines and language are positively reinforced. But some training advocates still rely on decade-old alphacentric methods that stressed the need to dominate and relied heavily on traditions passed down from a time when dogs lived primarily outside and worked hard for a living. Few dogs embrace that lifestyle now, trading cold nights for comfy couches, and trading chores for companionship.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 116, "chunk_index": 126, "id": "a902683c-8c69-4920-9cf1-6a43178ca545", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Should you feel the need to hire a professional to help you raise your puppy, first explore the trainer’s approach. If someone uses a word like dominant or suggests methods that involve using prongs or battery-operated collars, find someone else. You are your puppy’s only advocate. If you love your pup like a baby, as many people do, be as discerning in your choice of helpers. If you’re having trouble finding a class or trainer in your area, ping me at sarahsayspets.com or search online at sites like https://apdt.com/https and https://m.iaabc.org.\n\nUntil the 21st century, most trainers borrowed from the growing philosophy that dogs were domesticated wolves, with many of the wild, unruly survival skills that captive wolves used to cope with being locked away. It wasn’t until the mid- to-late 1900s that a scientist named David Mech, trudging into various Northern reaches of the United States, revealed the truth about how wolves live and relate to each other. Funny thing — wolves have strong family ties and devotion to their young that’s not so different from how humans live and love.\n\nAs far as the evolutionary debate and how it relates to your relationship to your puppy goes, suffice it to say that dogs are no longer considered domesticated wolves, but rather a subspecies that split off to form a friendlier, more pleasing species that continues in their eagerness to please us. Imagine that! Brian Hare, a researcher from Duke University, wrote a compelling essay stating that, with both dogs and people, our survival was less survival of the fittest (as another great naturalist, Charles Darwin, proposed) than survival of the friendliest, because we required group cooperation to thrive.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 116, "chunk_index": 127, "id": "1d71a607-474c-4488-8c3f-76472ad746ec", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "With all eyes focused on our parallel evolutions, dog cognition has become a global obsession. In the past decade alone, a scientist has figured out ways to monitor dogs’ brain activity, decode their DNA, and do comparative analysis with human and other mammalian brains. Electrodes and MRI scans track the brain centers that alert to strong scents, familiar faces, various expressions, and spoken words. I’ve listed three of the more important findings, and how they help you to relate to living with and loving your puppy.\n\nInterested in reading more about dog cognition? Research the topic online or at your local library. Periodicals like Science Daily and Nature (both online) stay abreast of all the current studies. Have fun exploring the new science of your beloved puppy.\n\nUntil recently, the scientific community had a hard time admitting that dogs have feelings. Why? Because in academic circles nothing is real unless there is measur- able data to prove it. Since no one in academia could show that dogs were capable of feeling emotions, reasoning, and attachment, it just wasn’t so.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 117, "chunk_index": 128, "id": "617dbd3e-d241-48e6-b724-dec08626e1d5", "word_count": 179, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 232 } }, { "page_content": "Enter two scientists: Dr. Stanley Coren began as a psychology professor and neu- ropsychological researcher at the University of British Columbia, whose lifelong hobby with dogs finally realigned his professional career. In 2008, he did what at the time seemed like a simple comparative analysis showing beyond a reasonable doubt that dogs have similar cognitive abilities to 2-2½-year-old children. Researching at the University of British Columbia, Coren set out to determine which breed of dog was the smartest based on a set of questions that tested their responsiveness to human direction. Although the findings caused quite the ripple in the dog world, the significant undisputable discovery was that all dogs, regard- less of their breed or intelligence rating, are capable of processing information, reasoning linear outcomes involving getting something they desired (such as a bone or freedom), and deducing simple arithmetic. He also showed that dogs could learn up to 150 words.\n\nDr. Coren’s publications opened the floodgates, and soon studies from around the world were conducted on topics including a dog’s musical preferences to similarities in the body chemicals released during petting.\n\nFast-forward to 2012 when another human neuroscientist, named Gregory Berns, an MD/PhD who specialized in MRI analysis, did a similar experiment with dogs. By tracking their brains’ responses to familiar smells, sights, and verbal directions, he discovered beyond a reasonable doubt that dogs show similar proactive and excited reactivity to everyday routines and people as we do.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 117, "chunk_index": 129, "id": "c469b0d5-c314-45aa-8727-956487cca136", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "Further studies with Dr. Berns’ team of scientists showed that dogs and people have similar brain centers, chemical releases in response to anticipation of posi- tive outcomes, and neurological wiring. His revelation set the scientific world on fire. proving to people everywhere that, yes, dogs\n\n» Recognize familiar faces and are more attracted to cheerful expressions than\n\n» Respond positively to the smells of the people they love » Are capable of problem-solving and modeling behavior (monkey-see-monkey-\n\nThe major difference between a dog’s brain and a human’s brain? The size: “A large dog’s brain is about the size of a lemon,” says Dr. Berns. So, what’s going on in all those empty pockets of your puppy’s brain? Much of it is devoted to olfactory receptors and sensory tunnels that collect information about your pup- py’s present situation: from the noises they hear to the sights and smells sur- rounding them. We people swapped out sensory awareness for complex thinking skills, in the process growing the frontal lobes of our brains, or what’s called the cerebral cortex.\n\nWith all the hoopla about dogs, some naysayers still claim that dogs are just not as smart as everyone thinks. Rather than point out what dogs excel in, they point to how a dog’s intelligence can’t compare to a dolphin, chimpanzee, or person. Yes, I’ll admit that I can’t teach a dog to make me breakfast in bed or balance my checkbook, but dogs can do plenty of things people won’t try, either.\n\nDogs have stellar hearing and response rates, fully capable of alerting to an unfa- miliar noise or intruder if they’re prone to doing so. I, on the other hand, slept through a hotel fire detector; needless to say, had I been home, my dog’s barking would have roused me.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 118, "chunk_index": 130, "id": "0c1a5bd8-3020-423b-aed5-9a77c885a2ed", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "Most dogs have acute scent-detection abilities, too — far surpassing human com- prehension. In her book A Dog’s Nose, Alexandra Horowitz, PhD, lays out your pup- py’s most sensitive appendage for all the world to see. Sure, their brains may be smaller than our own, but they make up space by devoting 40 times the sensory surface area to interpreting a world we cannot fathom — a world full of scented rainbows. Here are some other points Horowitz makes:\n\n» In a side-by-side analysis, your adult puppy will have up to 300 million olfactory\n\ncells (your puppy’s sniffing receptors) in their head, in comparison to a human’s 6 million — that’s a 50:1 ratio.\n\n» If trained, a dog can identify a single teaspoon of sugar in 2 million gallons of water — that’s two Olympic-size pools of water. I can’t even smell sugar in my morning coffee.\n\n» Every dog has a secondary olfactory center located in the roof of their mouth, called the vomeronasal organ, that alerts them to slight changes in body chemicals (known as pheromones) that help to distinguish the age, sex, and sexual receptivity of other dogs.\n\n» Dogs can smell moods. Slight changes in our perspiration cue our dogs into\n\nSure, dogs aren’t smart like people are, but it’s precisely because they are not people that dogs are brilliant in their own right, and the sooner you can recognize, respect, and reward your puppy for their version of clever, the sooner you’ll be navigating your own love story.\n\nWhen walking your puppy, allow some time for sniffing — especially in areas where dogs congregate. Sure, the idea that your dog is sniffing other dogs’ elimi- nations sounds gross to you, but you’re not a dog. To your puppy, reading the morning “pee-mail” is the highlight of their day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 131, "id": "e53bcea5-1015-40ed-9c43-75e51d4dcee8", "word_count": 304, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 395 } }, { "page_content": "Now that science is up to speed on the emotional life of dogs, it’s time to tip my hat to one of the most renowned neuroscientists of all time, Jaak Panksepp, PhD. He discovered that all mammals (humans, too) are born with five master emotions that rule all their behavior, day in and day out. I’ll relate the five emotions to dogs only, but don’t be afraid to let your imagination run wild — we have more in common with our dogs’ emotional landscape than you might think.\n\nSeeking is the master emotion that drives a dog’s survival: They hunt to find food, water, and companionship. As a social creature, your puppy can’t survive on their own and will form close bonds to whoever they spend time with, which often sur- pass their connection with other, unfamiliar dogs.\n\nScientists have recorded 100 expressions that dogs use to communicate with people. Many of these expressions are easy to identify: I want some, play with me, pet me now, time for breakfast, let’s go for a walk! See how many expressions you can read — you know your puppy best.\n\nPlay is somewhat of a mystery: No one can put their finger on why it happens — it just does. Dogs play when they feel safe where they are and who they are with: It’s a good measure of your puppy’s mood.\n\nPlaying and seeking are baseline emotions that you can use to measure your puppy’s mood accurately. When taking your puppy out and about or introducing a new distraction in your home, if your puppy will take a treat or engage with a toy, rest assured that they’re feeling secure enough to access their positive emotions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 132, "id": "b1322d5e-53a8-46c7-b356-acf47b1dbe69", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "Fear is a tricky one: It’s a sign that your dog is feeling unsure and stuck. In the next section on body language, you’ll learn the telltale signs of fear, but you don’t have to imagine too deeply — fear is a universal feeling. It freezes joy and leaves dogs immobilized, not sure of what will happen next and unsure what exactly to do about it.\n\nI address a puppy’s fearful reactions throughout the rest of this book. Pay close attention to Chapter 9: Socialization is the best insurance that your puppy is com- fortable with all the sights and sounds he’ll experience in your world: Otherwise, you’ll never know when fear-of-the-unknown might strike.\n\nFrustration hits when a puppy is caught between what they want to do and what they can’t do — or what they can’t reach. Low-level frustration often happens when a toy rolls under the couch or when a puppy whines behind a gate. Higher- level frustration mounts and may develop into more dramatic reactions in\n\nresponse to people passing by a window or fenced yard or to suffering from exces- sive isolation. You can find tips for dealing with these specific issues in Part 5.\n\nPanic is fear on steroids. Puppies panic when imminent death or peril seems at hand: It can happen in the early weeks of life when a puppy is separated from her litter, or at some point later on. I once worked with a husky who was crated during a small house fire, while the alarms blared and fire crews arrived to douse the blaze; after that experience, that pup panicked every time he was asked to go into a crate. Panic shuts down all other emotions and leaves a puppy in a state of, well, panic.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 120, "chunk_index": 133, "id": "f209c249-b22f-4125-a2b9-e5bc8be16d17", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Another great influencer who shaped modern dog thinking long before it became scientifically cool to do so was Nicholas Dodman, DVM. His books outlined dogs’ emotional lives and communication styles. When it comes to communicating, dogs and humans differ in these key aspects:\n\n» People talk with language and need to listen to one another for meaning. » Dogs use postures and subtle gestures to symbolize meaning: If you want to\n\nhear what your dog is saying, you need to use your eyes.\n\nIt took nearly two decades for scientists to follow Dr. Dodman’s lead, but when they did, they confirmed roughly everything he’d already taught us. Here’s an overview of your dog’s body talk: Consider how learning how to listen to your puppy will improve your relationship. Puppies are like kids — they are much more eager to listen to you if you learn to listen to their side of the story, too.\n\nYour puppy’s posture is a funny thing: It’s easier to remember if you compare it to yourself or someone you know well. Both pups and people “shrink” when they’re confused, fearful, or anxious; they also rise with excitement. They have a\n\nresting pose when life is least stressful, and a few favorite sleeping poses. Observe your pup and note, down to the very last detail, their body language, paying spe- cial attention to tail and ear positions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 121, "chunk_index": 134, "id": "b79804c0-ee88-44d2-90b1-601380faa1a0", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "Consider how your puppy will read your posture when something extraordinary happens, like a visitor’s arrival. All puppies get excited when people visit: Your home is their den, and the door is the mouth of the den. If you, in your desperation to save face, start shouting and pushing your puppy as someone enters, the whole arrival scene is one big fiasco. Instead of redirecting your puppy or showing calmness by example, you’ve just taught your puppy that greetings are a wild-’n’-crazy scene.\n\nLearn to translate your puppy’s postures and to redirect or soothe them when the mood they show doesn’t reflect the scene. In the remainder of this chapter you’ll also learn how their ears, eyes, mouth, tail, mouth, and vocalizations can be interpreted — use Figure 6-1 and Table 6-1 for quick reference. I help you explore different ways to interact with your puppy throughout the rest of this book, using these tables and illustrations as a guide.\n\nFIGURE 6-1: Understand what your puppy is telling you in these five postures.\n\nLow, arched, pulled back and down, hackles possibly up\n\nShifting from forward to pulled back, approaching but then immedi- ately avoiding the person\n\nComfortable posture, leaning toward an interest, moving from side to side, or jumping if excited\n\nTucked low under belly, arched slightly over the back, or fluctuating between the two\n\nStill or gently swinging in a relaxed or slightly elevated position\n\nStill above rump or above arched back in a tight, repetitive wag\n\nPanting, normal, possibly parted in a vocalization", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 122, "chunk_index": 135, "id": "1d284d12-34db-4b8e-8023-a07d803d255f", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Tight, unflinching, and possibly parted in a growl or vocalization\n\nYour puppy’s eyes will tell you a lot about how they’re feeling, from adoration to hopefulness to outright fear. Learn how you can interpret your puppy’s five key expressions to help adjust to eye situations:\n\n» Relaxed eyes: Notice your puppy’s eyes when you’re enjoying a moment together. Comfortably gazing at you in calm and mutual adoration, pupils (that dark circle in the center of their eye) in proportion to the colored ring, AKA the iris? That’s their relaxed eye.\n\n» Squinty, appeasing eyes: If your puppy is squinty it means one of three\n\nthings — they are trying to appease you (or another person or dog), they are slightly fearful (you can tell if they’re rump is lowered), or there is something actually caught in their eye. (Not usual, but if they scratch or rub their eye, you should check.)\n\n» Hard eyes: A dog who stares with hard eyes and a rigid body is feeling threatened or defensive. If pressed this dog — or puppy — will bite. » Whale-eye: This happens, and is not a good thing, when a puppy is so stressed, frustrated, or anxious by a stimulus or situation that you can actually see the whites of their eyes. If this happens to your puppy, do whatever you can to calm them by removing the stimulus or taking them out of the situation.\n\n» Avoids eye contact: If your puppy avoids your eye contact, they are either feeling overwhelmed by your interactions (are you staring down at them intensely?) or are just trying to ignore you altogether (not an uncommon behavior when they are in their adolescent phase — see Chapter 12!). If you can’t tell right off the bat, check out their other indicators (ears and tail, in other words) to see if they are up (attitude) or down (conflicted).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 123, "chunk_index": 136, "id": "5d0bbf2b-8e4a-41a2-89ac-1d7ad6e263b6", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "Like your puppy’s eyes, the tail is extremely expressive and can be used to gauge how they’re feeling throughout the day. As you’ll discover, there’s more to a tail wag than what meets the eye: Its position as well as the tempo of the wag deter- mine whether your puppy is happy or anxious or feeling more assertive.\n\nTo get a read on your puppy’s tail, observe its position. First, figure out their neu- tral tail — where it sits in relationship to their rump when they’re calm. Using that position as tail-neutral, see whether you can identify these “tell-tail” emotions:\n\n» Happy: Your puppy will lift their tail slightly and wag it from side to side when\n\n» Excited: When your puppy is excited, they will raise their tail a bit more and\n\nwags more frantically; this often happens when you return home.\n\n» Arched: A puppy who feels threatened (generally a behavior not seen before 7 months of age) may arch their tail stiffly over their rump. This puppy will stand their ground! Proceed with caution!\n\n» Tucked: A puppy who tucks their tail beneath their body is trying to look\n\nsmall. Often accompanied by cowering, this one is signaling fear or anxiety.\n\nYour puppy’s tail wag doesn’t always signal joy. Learn these tempos so that you can distinguish a happy wag from an anxious or aggressive wag:\n\n» Happy swing: Puppies who wag their tails so hard that their bodies wiggle are extremely happy: Discover what makes your puppy feel this good — maybe a special treat, toy, or happy voice — and use these things to train and reward your pup as often as possible.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 124, "chunk_index": 137, "id": "841896c1-1532-4a2f-b152-0ff3f1723c1a", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "» Sway: A sway is a shorter wag, and the emotion varies depending on where it’s held. A sway on a slightly elevated tail expresses interest or arousal. If the tail is swaying at rump level, your puppy is showing submissiveness. A below-rump sway on a puppy displays fear.\n\n» Twitch: Twitching tails convey intense emotion. One that’s raised above the\n\nrump signals agitation. A low twitch? This puppy is panicking.\n\nWant to know just what your puppy thinks about Aunt Edna’s visit? Look at their tail — if it’s wagging on the right side, they’re happy. Tails that wag to the left communicate caution or insecurity.\n\nYour puppy will also use their ears to express emotion and will often use them in concert with their tail: Ears and tail up convey confidence and a bold curiosity; ears and tail lowered communicate caution or fear. Learn these poses and all the other ear expressions in between these two extremes.\n\n» Relaxed: All puppies have different ears. Some flop, others point, and some stand part way up. Study the ears when your puppy is relaxed to determine their resting pose.\n\n» Seal-like: This adorable, seal-like look is copped when your puppy draws their ears back: When it’s paired with a full swing of their tail, you no doubt have a happy and excited puppy on your hands.\n\n» Antenna: This is the classic one-up, one-down expression that lets you know your puppy is focusing on two different noises at the same time. Your puppy is one of a very special species that can be tuned into different sounds simultaneously.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 125, "chunk_index": 138, "id": "43469ead-ba1f-4f8b-9927-ec007fa6cf4a", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "Did you know your puppy can move their ears independently of one another? This adaptation helps them track sound coming in various directions — neat! » Pitched forward: When a puppy pitches their ears forward, they’re making a statement: Generally paired with a raised tail and forward body lean, this puppy is trying to make themselves look bigger. Look around you — whatever your puppy is staring at may be causing excitement or frustration.\n\n» Pinned back: With ears pinned back, and body curved and lowered to the\n\nfloor the puppy’s message is feeling small and powerless.\n\nMouth: Grin or grumble, stress panting, play panting, yawning\n\nYour puppy’s mouth is similar to your own: When cracked in an open, smile-like curve, it generally conveys joy (unless the puppy is panting due to hot weather or excessive activity, like bone chewing, a stint at the dog park, or exhaustive play). A closed mouth is common when a dog is sleeping or playing independently. A tightened lip pout is seen in puppies who are concentrating or doing something unpleasant, such as meeting a new dog or smelling something foul. A growl where facial muscles are tightened and lips are curled communicates that your puppy is feeling either defensive or seriously afraid. Note your pup’s mouth positions so that you become fluent in their lip language.\n\n» Mouth slightly open: A relaxed jaw that’s slightly open is similar to a child’s\n\nimpish or happy grin. The lips are loose and wrinkle-free.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 125, "chunk_index": 139, "id": "227605ea-2d8f-428c-bf2c-864d7ec54a8d", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "» Mouth shut: Dogs generally keep their mouths shut when relaxed or sleeping, but if your puppy closes their mouth in a social situation, pay attention to what’s going on around you. If your puppy is feeling stressed, a tightly clenched mouth or puckered lip communicates growing agitation. » Lip licking: Your puppy will lick their lips when they’re anxious or over-\n\nstressed. If you can, remove your puppy from the situation or calm them by holding them to your heart or tucking them behind or beneath you.\n\n» Taut face, lips in C position: If your puppy’s face is stretched and taut, check their lips for a quick gauge of their emotional state. If your puppy feels threatened or trapped, their lips will pull back into a “c” curve.\n\n» Taut face, lips in V position: If your puppy is feisty and reactive, clearly ready to take on the world, their offensive reactions can be noted in lips that pull back into a “v” curve.\n\n» Yawning: Puppies yawn when they’re tired, or when copying another dog or person; yawning may also be a way of releasing stress. Keep your puppy’s emotional landscape in mind when determining a mood or emotion. » Panting: Your puppy will pant when they’re thirsty or hot, but may also\n\npant if they’re stressed or overstimulated. Keep the situation in mind when interpreting this behavior.\n\nYour puppy will have a variety of vocalizations, starting with small, pitiful whim- pers when they’re newborn and helpless to the ear-splitting, headache-causing yaps of a puppy feeling lonely, frustrated, or defensive.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 126, "chunk_index": 140, "id": "bb2752dd-3c6f-4f7c-9f49-0d1be85cb07a", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Although I address how to manage or redirect your puppy’s barking habits in Chapter 16, I’ve listed various types of barking here:\n\n» Bratty barking: These puppies want attention! They space the barks out, and\n\n» Stress whining: These puppies want something they can’t have or reach: It might be a toy or your attention or a completely random item — but you’ll know the instant it happens, because it will pull on your heartstrings. Beware, though — if you reward whining, you get more and more and more whining until it becomes a lifelong habit.\n\n» Reactive barking: These puppies alert to any sound or stimulus. Because the\n\nsound is high-pitched and repetitive, your goal will not be to stop your puppy — reactive barkers are born, not made — but to develop an off switch so that you can curb the barking once it starts. Want a clue? Flip to the barking section of Chapter 16.\n\n» Baying, or howling: This is generally a breed-specific sound isolated to\n\nhound-type dogs and Nordic breeds. These dogs use their voices to communi- cate with other dogs and to express frustration when left alone or feeling stressed.\n\n» Play growl: Puppies often growl during play, especially during confrontational games like tug-of-war, physical wrestling, or face-to-face sparring. It can and should be easily calmed or diffused by redirecting the play to an object or chewing type of toy.\n\n» Pleasure seeking: Many dogs growl or moan when enjoying a rub or scratch. Unless the sound is paired with a stiff posture and direct, hard-eyed stares, it’s a pleasurable sound.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 141, "id": "4ff19816-2c6e-49f0-893d-bc5eab004017", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "» Throaty growl: A warning growl that’s paired with a stare and tense body posture often occurs over resources. It’s common for puppies to communi- cate their boundaries with other dogs; however, if they’re growling at you, get professional help. Though you can redirect your puppy if this type of aggres- sive stance continues, it may become a habit. And you know what they say about habits: They’re hard to break.\n\n» Belly growl: A more serious growl emanates from the belly. This growl means the dog is about to bite. Often paired with raised hackles, flattened ears, and exposed teeth, this dog will lunge and snap or bite the source of its frustration.\n\nThere’s a direct parallel between dogs who bark and people who yell: See if you can make the parallel. A puppy barks at seeing the neighbors walking their dog. If you yell, your puppy will interpret your raised and frustrated tones as barking. Though your puppy may stop barking for the moment, they’ll go back to barking the next time around, because your yelling was simply interpreted as backing them up. Yelling isn’t helpful. Find a better solution to your barking problems in Chapter 16.\n\nYour puppy’s fur is filled with lots of scents that signal — to every dog they meet — their demographics as well as their latest poop-rolling adventure. None of it matters much to us humans, although when their fur stands up on end, take notice. When your puppy’s hair lifts along their spine (technically referred to as piloerection), your pup is definitely trying to tell you how they’re feeling at the moment — and it’s not always confident. Pay close attention to these instances", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 142, "id": "89d13c86-5366-4745-81f1-289bec9fc610", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "» On the offensive: A thin line of hair that stands up along the spine and\n\ncontinues down the back. Dogs with this pattern of piloerection may appear overly confident, but will likely turn aggressive.\n\n» Anxious: A broad patch around the shoulders. On the flip side, this pattern is\n\nspotted in dogs that are less confident and even fearful.\n\n» Aroused and conflicted: Patches of hair raised at the shoulders and the base of the tail and no raised hair on the back. This pattern covers a range of reactions that a dog may be feeling, from ambivalent to conflicted.\n\nPiloerection is just another fancy word for goose bump.\n\nI’ve never understood the lure of being a dog whisperer. Dogs don’t listen to whis- pering people. Pride yourself instead on being a dog listener, because taking the time to listen is most important.\n\nOne of the most helpful similarities between puppies and babies is their basic needs: All of them need to eat, drink, sleep, go potty, and play. The main differ- ence is the way they express their need confusion. Babies cry when a need over- whelms them; puppies, though they may occasionally whimper, get nippy and restless.\n\nAs kids mature, they learn to communicate their needs with words; your puppy can’t talk, but they’ll mature, too. In place of spoken language, they will gesture their needs if you’ve laid the groundwork by pairing each need with a routine. Involve everyone in your household in these rituals, and within a week you’ll cre- ate habits with your puppy that will stick for life. See Table 6-2 for a mock chart you can use as a model for training, or take it as Square One and modify it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 128, "chunk_index": 143, "id": "6369aa5e-0112-46d8-b8bd-2e4fc07e59f0", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "Designate one spot in each shared room, or use a crate or pen to condition good sleeping habits. Take your pup to their area, provide a chew toy, and secure them, if necessary.\n\nKeep the bowl in the same spot. Encourage your puppy to sit before drinking.\n\nFollow the same route to the same potty spot. Restrict attention until your puppy goes. If they’re going outside, tap a bell to encourage them to alert you when they need to go out.\n\nEstablish a play area inside and outside the house. Make sure all four paws are on the floor before you toss a toy or give a bone.\n\nDogs become frantically fussy when overtired or confused by hunger, exhaustion, thirst, or the need to potty. Nearly all puppies will start by nipping in confusion, but if these initial nips are met with harsh discipline, the puppy may develop defensive reactions, such as aggression or barking back.\n\nWhoever satisfies a need is held in high regard. Though your puppy may take some time to “pay it forward” with their love and devotion, each passing day brings you closer to that ultimate connection. Need by need, your bond grows.\n\nYour puppy is most awake at dawn and dusk: The fancy term is that they’re crepuscular. People are diurnal; some animals, like raccoons and owls, are noctur- nal; dogs are crepuscular — they rest a good 75 percent of the day. Though this makes them ideal companions, they can grow frustratingly fussy when overtired: Think of a toddler having a meltdown. Now imagine that toddler with teeth. If your puppy is mouthy to the point of snapping, it may have little to do with their personality and more to do with needing a routine rest. Turn to Chapter 7 for a proper sleep schedule. (Keep in mind that your goal is to have a dog who is active", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 129, "chunk_index": 144, "id": "e79d0f06-e64c-492e-a43d-7f266f38df50", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "with you twice per day — before 9 a.m. and after 4 p.m.) Too much stimulation can create a chronically frenetic dog: You don’t want that, now do you?\n\nYoung puppies (younger than 6 months) require two 2- to 3-hour sleep cycles daily. Like kids, some puppies have a hard time putting themselves to sleep, espe- cially when excitement levels are high. Designate a quiet room for napping (using a crate, pen or gate to contain your puppy), and place them down for scheduled naps during the day. In my house, having 9 a.m. and 1 p.m. naps helped me sched- ule my day, too. Each time you lead your puppy to their resting area, say a cue word or phrase, like “In you go.” Eventually, your puppy will go to this area on their own when they’re tired.\n\nPuppies enjoy predictable routines. A hungry puppy is understandably upset and may show you by eating anything — even difficult-to-digest items such as tis- sues or walls. Schedule feeding times and stick to them, whether you feed all or a portion of your puppy meal by hand or from a bowl. If you notice your puppy get- ting nippy or difficult, check your watch. The behavior may be a result of hunger tension.\n\nIn Chapter 5, I argued for hand feeding your puppy their meals when possible. If you’re out of the house around normal feeding times, however, you can now buy timed feeders that you can set or program with an app. If your schedule is less than predictable or you know you may be called away during mealtimes, consider this option.\n\nA young puppy has a high metabolism and should have more frequent meals. Schedule three to four meals throughout the day, slowly phasing out meals as your puppy matures. At some point after your puppy reaches 10 months to a year, they may naturally drop one meal. Most dogs, however, prefer two feedings a day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 130, "chunk_index": 145, "id": "d5a8771a-ea01-49ad-ba37-738affe03477", "word_count": 327, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 425 } }, { "page_content": "Does your puppy love their food? If so, use it to reward them throughout the day. Portion out some or all of the food and use it to motivate quick responses and self-control. (For more on how to use food to inspire learning, check out Part 4 of this book.)\n\nWater is critically important for your puppy’s well-being: it should be left out and available at all times. That said, try to monitor their drinking habits while house- training them. Establish a drinking station for your puppy and keep their dish there, whether it’s empty or full. Give water with meals, after playing, chewing, or napping, and as you’re on your way to the potty area.\n\nRestrict water after 7:30 p.m., unless you want to be up all night taking your puppy outside. If your puppy needs a drink, either give them a small amount or offer a couple of ice cubes.\n\nAlthough dogs have many fewer taste buds overall (humans have 9,000 to their 1,700), your puppy has a ring of taste buds on the tip of their tongue that make water taste sweet. Pretty cool.\n\nI don’t think house-training can be summed up any better than with the wonder- ful maxim “Whatever goes in must come out.” Your puppy’s biological clock will have them eliminating on demand. When their bladder or bowels are pressed, they’ll let loose whether they’re outside or on the papers — or the rug, if you’re not watching.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 130, "chunk_index": 146, "id": "64713d0d-1f47-4e86-b8dd-18add9d3e3f1", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "Your goal is to teach your puppy where to go and how to let you know when an obstacle (such as a door) is stopping them from getting there. Fortunately, you’ll find this task easy after you commit to a routine and can relax your expectations. Tension or expressed frustration is confusing; your puppy won’t learn quickly and may grow increasingly more afraid of you. Your puppy needs a schedule, a routine, and a consistent pattern — all of which are within your grasp.\n\nIf you’re having house-training difficulties, refer to Chapter 14.\n\nThe urge to play and express themselves energetically is one of the most natural responses in your puppy’s repertoire. As with children, play and lighthearted interactions can be fabulous instructional tools and can be used exclusively during your first few months together.\n\nHow you play with your young puppy determines your long-term relationship. Rough games, such as wrestling or chase communicate confrontation, which can be scary and may lead to aggression or mischief. Great games such as the 2-ball toss or soccer and name games (which I describe in Chapter 20) instill cooperation and a fun-loving attitude — this puppy won’t ever want to leave your side.\n\nThe answer to the age-old question “When should I start training my puppy?”", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 131, "chunk_index": 147, "id": "78f1a422-3454-46e5-8060-bc274a54d393", "word_count": 213, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 276 } }, { "page_content": "is, if possible, before you even bring your puppy home. Because dog training is 90 percent people training, it’s ideal to begin by preparing your home, your family, and even your other pets long before the big day arrives. In this chapter, you learn how to arrange spaces with your puppy in mind and how to prepare and introduce the kids and resident pets; I also give you tips for when you have to leave your puppy alone; an answer to the recurring question “Are crates necessary?” My goal in this chapter, however, is to cue you in on the first and most valuable lessons your puppy needs to learn during their first month at home. Puppy training doesn’t need to be a drag — just be sure to organize and share your insights ahead of time so that everyone in your household is on the same page.\n\nTraining, training — the kind you might think of when someone says the word doesn’t need to be a formal process, if you focus on creating consistent routines and condition the right attention-getting habits. Hint: If your puppy wants your attention, wait until they have all four paws on the floor before you address them.\n\nPreparing for your puppy-baby’s homecoming is a lot like getting ready for a baby. You’ll have fun shopping (see Chapter 5 for suggestions) as well as setting up your puppy’s playscapes and nursery, and if you organize your puppy’s potty plan ahead of time, you’ll be surprised how quickly that will go.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 133, "chunk_index": 148, "id": "6eeee528-5fca-4850-97da-07df67328e8e", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Designate an open room, like a kitchen, as your puppy’s free-play zone. A carpet- free space is ideal; rolling up area rugs at the corners may tempt a pup to chew, and the absorbent texture may prompt elimination. Tape wires down, remove all low-sitting temptations, and place your shoes elsewhere. Place the puppy’s com- fort station at the corner of this room as well. (See the next section.)\n\nThe free-play zone should be free of items that the puppy shouldn’t play with (such as the hanging towels and doll shown in Figure 7-1). A little puppy-proofing can prevent a lot of problems.\n\nIf your puppy’s free-play zone blocks another pet’s domain, reorganize your resi- dent pet’s area well in advance of the puppy’s arrival. For example, if your cat’s bowls and litter box are within the puppy’s area, relocate them before you bring your puppy home so that your cat won’t feel displaced by the new arrival. For more tips on introducing your pup to the resident pets, flip to the section “ Introducing other pets,” later in this chapter.\n\nFIGURE 7-2: Give your puppy an area in all the rooms you share.\n\nFeed your puppy by their comfort station in their free-play zone or, if they’re distractible, in a gate or crate within the free-play zone. Have two dishes — one for water, one for food. Take up the bowls at appropriate times and wash the dishes after every feeding. (See Chapter 6 for more on feeding times for puppies.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 134, "chunk_index": 149, "id": "33692b03-5269-4c61-8cf5-408383a438eb", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "Help your puppy identify an area of the free-play zone that is home base. This area will be your puppy’s comfort station, where they’ll rest, find their bones and toys, and go when directed to “Go to your place.\" Place a flat mat, folded quilt, or bed in a corner area or a nook created between furniture. Put your puppy’s toys and bones on the mat, and if possible, arrange the water dish nearby. Sit by your puppy’s calming station with them and treat them so that they think the area is special. If you make this area the focal point of your interactions, your puppy will bond to it quickly. (See Figure 7-2.)\n\nYour puppy should have a pre-established comfort station in each room you plan to share. Choose a spot that’s close to where you spend the most time. As you introduce your puppy to new rooms in the house, either bring their familiar bed or use a similar one in each room.\n\nPuppies need a lot of sleep to support their rapid-fire growth and mental devel- opment. If your puppy isn’t getting enough sleep, you’ll know it — though sleep may not be the first thing that comes to your mind. An overtired puppy may become hyper and nippy to the point of being aggressive if you try to interfere with their constant motion.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 135, "chunk_index": 150, "id": "c91cd305-ec72-427c-a450-d36ca67fcdd0", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "Because a tired puppy can become ornery (just like you), you’ll want to address their sleep schedule immediately! Designate a gated area as their sleep space, or put their crate in an area free from a lot of foot traffic and incoming light so that they can sleep undisturbed. (It wouldn’t hurt to pull the blinds or drape a towel over your puppy’s crate to create a den-like feeling.) Because puppies are attuned to all sounds, block distant noises by leaving on soft rock or lullaby music so that your puppy doesn’t feel left out. Whether you choose a crate or a gated room, make it cozy by laying down a mat and an article of your clothing, as well as a puppy pacifier (see Chapter 5) or bone to self-soothe your puppy if they should grow restless. Avoid fluffy beds or cushions because either can encourage chewing or accidents.\n\nSleeping is one of your puppy’s basic needs — just as important to their develop- ment as eating and drinking. When puppies don’t get enough sleep, they act fran- tic to the point of distraction, often becoming incessantly mouthy. Many show aggressive tendencies when continuously overtired, much like a colicky infant.\n\nUnlike people, who as adults are diurnal — resting 8 hours or one-third of a 24-hour cycle — dogs are crepuscular, most awake at dawn and dusk and resting for the remainder of the day. This factor makes them ideal pets because your day can be organized to play 20 minutes an hour with them before 9 a.m. and after 4 p.m.\n\nAs far as creating a habitual daytime sleep schedule goes, organize their nap times during the day for those times when you’re busy or working anyway. Until they reach 8 months of age, your puppy should have a noontime visit to feed, take comfort, and relieve themselves.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 136, "chunk_index": 151, "id": "bfe317ad-215f-4b10-ae0d-9b2ac589d1b7", "word_count": 310, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 403 } }, { "page_content": "See Table 7-1 for a daily schedule, including ideal nap and potty break times. As tempted as you are to provide your puppy with daytime activities and late hours filled with dreamy snuggles while watching T.V., resist the urge. If you over- stimulate your puppy, they will have a harder time settling down, may be over- reactive, and may develop extreme separation anxiety during adolescence and puberty stages. For more on potty breaks and house-training, see Chapter 14.\n\nGo outside/papers; offer self-soothing toys and activities\n\nCreate a feeding routine, feeding by hand, in a toy, treat cup or bowl\n\nGive your dog puppy pacifiers. chews, and blankets while you get ready\n\nGive attention after your puppy goes potty; next put in crate with pacifier or chew\n\nFeed or portion out food and use for play or training\n\nTake to potty areas after meal, then play with multiple toys!\n\nSelf-soothing play with chew toys, other dogs, or an adventure\n\nAssign words to everyday routine like Car, Walk, or Bone\n\nTake your dog out before crating them for afternoon nap\n\nEarly is better; let 15 minutes pass before rough play\n\nReward your puppy with play or a self-soothing activity\n\nTake your dog to their area to go then back to bed. No attention\n\nIf your puppy is having a hard time sleeping solo, consider a Snuggle Puppy sleeping buddy toy, as described in Chapter 5.\n\nTo some, maybe even you, crates seem confining, even dungeon-like torture devices that trap poor puppies against their will. But crates aren’t awful — I promise. Puppies grow to love these enclosures like kids love their big-kid beds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 136, "chunk_index": 152, "id": "052272ec-932c-41f2-8c4e-1d2ac7b47d5e", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "And though you can phase off the use of their crate as your puppy matures and their house-training and chewing habits are under control, no one says you have to: Some puppies even become crate-dependent, entering the crate on their own when life gets too overwhelming. Every time I see our sweet Tally dog curled up in his crate, I start wishing I had a crate to crawl into when days are long and times get tough.\n\nHere are ten steps to introduce your puppy to their create. (For more about what type and size of crate to purchase, flip to Chapter 5.)\n\nIf you live in a large home, consider two crates — one in the kitchen area and the other in the bedroom or quiet place to encourage rest. Place the crate in the free-play zone, placing old clothing articles or a pad on the bottom (unless your puppy pees on them — then keep the bottom bare until your puppy learns to hold their bladder).\n\n1. Initially have the crate in the open area, using it as toy central.\n\nPlace toys, treats, and bones just inside the crate, and then let your puppy’s curiosity take over. From the start, place their food near the opening, gradually moving each meal closer to the door.\n\n2. After a couple of days, play the “in-we-go, out-we-go” game.\n\nTake high-value treats and sit by the opening of the crate. This is a hands-off exercise — no touching or forcing your puppy into the crate. Shake the cup or hold a treat to your puppy’s nose, and then toss in the treat. Say “in-you-go” as your puppy goes into the crate to find it, and “out-you-go” as they leave the crate. Play this game three to five times and quit before your puppy loses interest.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 138, "chunk_index": 153, "id": "0ba7dc9f-55ab-4d1e-88a9-03d98a47cb2f", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "3. If your puppy is comfortable moving in and out of the crate, begin to feed a portion of their meals scattered in the crate.\n\nI use commercial foraging mats or place a bowl in the back corner.\n\nAs your puppy is eating their meal, slide a bone or extra-high-value treats in the open side slats while still leaving the crate door open.\n\n4. Place all high-value chews or favorite toys and note any time your puppy enters the crate to play or rest.\n\n5. After your puppy is comfortable in the crate, say “In-you-go” as you lure them in using a fist of kibble or a few high-value treats.\n\nSit down at the opening, say “Bye for now” and shut the door; ask a helper to drop in a favorite chew through a side opening or do so yourself. Within 5 seconds, open the door and place another treat inside the crate, before your puppy has a chance to pop out.\n\n6. Gradually lengthen the close-door time until your puppy is accustomed to varying closures from 10 to 60 seconds.\n\nAgain, either drop in a chew as you walk away or ask a helper to feed treats in the side window while you walk away.\n\n7. When you’re confident that your puppy can settle inside their crate with a self soothing toy, choose a natural nap time and leave them alone for 15 minutes with a favorite chew and gentle music playing, and then dim the lights.\n\n8. If they’re frantic, you can return to the area — but don’t rescue them. Just let your presence calm them.\n\nDo not remove your puppy from the crate when they’re distressed or else they’ll grow frantic every time they’re left alone. Wait until your puppy is settled to calmly open the crate.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 138, "chunk_index": 154, "id": "25fd84aa-ffdd-4301-a238-67f3b7f211f8", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "9. When they have settled down, feed high-end treats through a side opening, and then open the crate and take the puppy to potty. 10. After your puppy is calm being left alone, use the crate for nap times.\n\nYoung puppies need lots and lots of sleep, and are most awake at dawn and dusk. Puppies need two full nap periods and a good night’s sleep to mature into calm, sensible dogs. When overstimulated and chronically entertained, puppies develop into impulsive dogs who need a lot of activity to self-soothe. Use your puppy’s natural sleep cycles and chew toys to teach them to self-soothe or rest when left alone.\n\nCrates aren’t ideal for older puppies who may be suffering from separation anxi- ety. If separation anxiety is a concern, read more about that topic in Chapter 16.\n\nWhether you’re paper training your puppy or teaching them to potty outside, establish a schedule as the one outlined in Table 7-1 and decide on a route to speed through shared rooms to the door or to the papers, which should be set in a spe- cific spot. (See Chapter 14 for a diagram of a sample route.) Place papers in the specified area or select a door to use and a potty area no more than 10 to 20 feet from your home’s entrance.\n\nContaining your puppy in certain areas of your home is important, especially if your house is large and you have other pets or children. Too much freedom or activity can set bad habits in motion, especially if your puppy is fearful or easily excited, so you’ll want to determine which rooms your puppy is allowed into at first and set up the potty route accordingly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 139, "chunk_index": 155, "id": "65c2546f-568d-435b-930e-c85b94ebbb9d", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "The day has finally arrived to bring your puppy home. You’ve thought ahead, pre- pared family members and friends, and probably shared your excitement with a few strangers. This trip will be a real thrill ride for you. Your puppy, however, may feel a little differently. Leaving the place and people they’re used to and being separated from their dog family can be stressful and scary.\n\nMake every effort to plan a calm trip home. See if you can arrange the trip during their usual naptime. Also, think through the possible scenarios so that you’ll be prepared for anything that may happen:\n\n» Best case: Your puppy may sleep the entire way home. Keep your energy\n\nsubdued and speak softly to your puppy if they wake up. Calming music may also be effective.\n\n» Worst case: Your puppy may throw up, howl, or have diarrhea. The worst-case scenario is a drag, I know, but be prepared, just in case. And no matter how disappointed, disgusted, or frustrated you become, don’t stress or correct your puppy.\n\nTo be prepared for any mishaps, bring the following items on the trip:\n\n» Paper towels and cleaner » Pet safe carpet or upholstery cleaner » Plastic bags » An appropriately sized plastic crate » A towel to spread under the crate to prevent slipping or to clean up accidents » A lightweight collar with an identifying phone number in case of emergency or\n\nCrating your puppy in the vehicle is important for safety and comfort. Ask the breeder or caretaker what size is most appropriate for your pup. In the car, secure the kennel by bracing it with pillows or tying it down on a level surface. If other people are riding with you, ask someone to sit near the opening of the kennel and speak softly to the puppy while feeding them whatever food they’re accustomed to eating if they’re awake.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 140, "chunk_index": 156, "id": "c4323907-15d2-4887-b31e-b28bd2a5c89e", "word_count": 318, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 413 } }, { "page_content": "Never let (or make) your puppy sit in your lap while driving. It’s too distracting and, to make matters worse, a slight fender bender may release the airbag. Like infants, your puppy won’t survive the blow.\n\nWhen planning your first day with your new pup, remember to keep it simple. If you have kids or other dogs, tire them out and use bribes to ensure their cooper- ation. Don’t tolerate fighting and commotion between siblings — your puppy will have enough on their mind. Keep all stress at bay for the first 24 hours. If you have other pets, keep the puppy separated with a puppy playpen, praising your resi- dents for sniffing or approaching the puppy.\n\nIn this section, I walk you through the best way to introduce the puppy to your family — including both people and pets. No doubt everyone will be fast friends after puppy settles in, but you can ease the inevitable initial fears and discomfort by handling day one well.\n\nTo introduce your family to the puppy, gather everyone involved in Team Puppy, hand everyone some puppy kibble, and create a large circle by sitting on the floor or grass. Place your new puppy in the center of the circle and let them approach everyone on their own. Dole out toys or small food rewards so that everyone can give the pup a present when first meeting them.\n\nIf you have kids, the day that your puppy first comes home may be on a future fondest-memories-of-childhood list — talk about excitement! However, part of your job is to keep the kids calm because too much squealing and loving in the first 5 minutes can be somewhat overwhelming for a pup. Explain the situation ahead of time and ask your children to help you make the puppy feel comfortable by speaking quietly and petting gently.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 141, "chunk_index": 157, "id": "1ecd2211-5b05-4eb0-9ab6-52d0c664916f", "word_count": 310, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 403 } }, { "page_content": "Here are a few tricks I’ve found useful in dispelling early tension, frustrations, and fights:\n\n» Model, model, model. The saying “Monkey see, monkey do” applies to children, too. Because your children pick up on habits by watching you, show them how to act with actions instead of words. I can assure you that\n\nsomething is bound not to go as planned, but if you stay calm and ignore the impulse to badger or boss, you’ll have a more relaxed home on your hands. Kids react poorly to negative reprimands. Stay cheerful and model the right behavior while your children are watching. Like monkeys, they see — and then they do.\n\n» Assign tasks. Make a chart assigning everyone a job ahead of time. Make raising the puppy a fun family affair where everyone plays the role of the parent.\n\n» Talk to your kids ahead of time. Get them involved in your plans and warn them of all the possible situations that may arise. For instance, the puppy may be sad and withdrawn and may not want to interact with anyone — they’re missing their littermates. Though the kids may be let down, everyone must respect the puppy — they’ll snap out of it in a few days. On the other hand, the puppy may be nippy and want to play rough — again, a carryover from their first family. (See Chapter 15 for tips on handling a mouthy puppy.) Make sure the kids are aware of the possibility, and help them interact with the puppy when they’re calm.\n\nRemind the kids that puppies need a lot of sleep — especially during the first 6 months. Let them decide on the music choices and placement for the puppy’s nursery, and show them the sleep schedule so that they can take a role in putting the puppy down for naps and bedtime.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 141, "chunk_index": 158, "id": "60e6c31b-96b0-4ce0-ad36-3a756b653586", "word_count": 312, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 405 } }, { "page_content": "» Take the puppy away. Your puppy will get easily excited by your children and may express themselves by nipping, jumping, and tugging. Help create a plan if a situation with the puppy gets out of hand, referencing Chapter 8 for some creative ideas like Alligator Island (every kids favorite), Fishing for Fido and the Run Run Stop game.\n\nIf redirecting your puppy doesn’t work teach your kids to clear the area!\n\nEveryone gets excited when they hear the word puppy. Friends and neighbors crawl out of the woodwork and want to welcome you home. Don’t be persuaded! Limit early introductions to only the closest friends and family. Resist extracur- ricular visits and drive-by welcomes until the next week, when your puppy has fully transitioned and has bonded with the household.\n\nSometimes your friends can be the hardest to control. Many will, without provo- cation, share their views on everything from house-training to how to discipline your puppy when they misbehave. Listen respectfully, but stay the course. Even though your friend may speak the gospel about what worked for their puppy, you’re not raising their puppy — you’re raising your own. As children, what works\n\nfor one pup may not work for another. If you follow everyone’s advice, you risk confusing your puppy. If you need more help than this book offers, skip your friends’ advice and sign up for a class or call a respected professional.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 142, "chunk_index": 159, "id": "1b280ae9-942c-494b-af9d-4241bbdc180f", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "When the time has finally come for you to introduce your new pup to your friends, gather some treats and offer them to your visitors as they come in. Offer them a chair or ask them to sit on the floor as your puppy approaches. Ask them to extend the treat but not release it until your puppy is calmly standing or sitting on all four paws. By ignoring them when they’re excited and petting them when they’re calm, you’re getting a head start on encouraging good manners.\n\nThough you and your family want all the pets to be friends, you have to realize that your resident pets will not be wearing party hats when you walk through the door with a new companion in your arms. Young puppies are especially annoying to other animals — and the oodles of attention they get will be off-putting to the resident pets. Some time must pass (up to 6 months, in some cases) for everyone to get used to each other.\n\nThe following sections highlight some species-specific tips to help ease the tension.\n\nTry to organize the introductions at a time when your resident dog is the calmest and, preferably, after play, meals, and exercise. If your dog doesn’t know the Find It game, teach it to them by casting treats or parts of their meal on the floor while instructing “Find it.” (See Chapter 20 for a more detailed explanation.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 143, "chunk_index": 160, "id": "c8c4fcff-6ec7-4f21-b16a-d6d3b18b643c", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "When introducing a young puppy to an older dog, ask a friend or family member to help out supervising the puppy during the introduction. Place the puppy in a crate or playpen either in someone else’s house or apartment or outside in a clean and safe environment as you approach with your dog on a loose leash. Each time your dog sniffs or looks at the puppy, mark the moment with a word like “puppy- good” or use a clicker as described in Chapter 5, and then toss a treat to the floor: Find it! If you’re unconcerned about your dog’s reaction, let the two sniff each other while your friend either holds the puppy in their lap or sits with the puppy on the floor.\n\nNext, proceed into the house. Use a pen off to one side of the house or gate the puppy away from the main living area until your first dog is familiar and more at ease with the presence of the puppy. From the outset, give your resident dog the\n\nroyal treatment, feeding and greeting them first (dividing their meals into as many meals as you’re feeding the puppy). If your resident pet approaches you while you are, or anyone is, interacting with the puppy, turn away from the puppy and address them immediately. Don’t allow the puppy to push the other pets aside for your attention; just ignore them or gently block their inclusion by turning away.\n\nWhen allowing your puppy to mingle in your home, affix a light indoor freedom line (see Chapter 5) or leash onto your puppy’s collar to allow for quick redirection if the puppy is too playful or is annoying your resident dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 143, "chunk_index": 161, "id": "78d64083-9422-45ad-9d40-466579d3a1cf", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "Be prepared for the resident to growl, snap, or pin your puppy — and stay calm. If you yell at your resident dog, they’ll be more resistant to the newbie’s presence. If you’re able, praise your resident, reminding them that they are still the queen and lead them away from the puppy with a promise of a treat. Your puppy must learn that your older dog is not its mother or another puppy. Reassured and given more treats for tolerating the pup’s presence, they will slowly grow on each other.\n\nGrowling, teeth snarling, and pinning are not unusual dog behaviors when two dogs first meet. Dogs organize their relationship based on seemingly odd interac- tions. Almost immediately, one dog appears to yield while the other controls the interaction. However, if one dog appears vicious or the discourse continues for more than 30 seconds or escalates to where both dogs are fighting each other, separate the dogs immediately and call a professional to help smooth the intro- ductions. I’m often called to introduce a new puppy into a household to ensure everyone starts on the right paw.\n\nSome older dogs, when faced with a new puppy in their home, completely with- draw, going so far as to act as though they’ve never met you. Don’t be put off. Instead, just shower them with love and attention. If your youngster badgers or bullies your resident dog for sport, discourage it immediately by using a drag lead or a quick spritz of water from a spray bottle", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 144, "chunk_index": 162, "id": "d591bfdd-c81e-451a-a1d2-7cafa941d9b7", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "If you bring a new older puppy into the group — one who is old enough to be walked on a leash — it’s best to have a friend help you and let the dogs meet on a walk at a location unfamiliar to both dogs. Manage the two dogs so that when walking side-by-side, you can guide them to sniff bottoms instead of being forced at one another face-to-face. Let your resident sniff first, and then guide the puppy back so that when walking slightly behind, you can gradually walk the puppy to greet your dog, rump facing.\n\nIf you’re earnestly concerned that your resident dog may harm the puppy, muzzle them or keep hold of their leash to enable easy interference. You can also call in a professional to walk you through it.\n\nAdding two puppies to your house is more like having twins than adopting two ham- sters, two fish, or two cats. The first year is quite the balancing act. House-training, fran- tic chewing escapades, and nipping and jumping habits are often more than twice the effort because one puppy influences the other and, in the end, may tune you out. You need the 3 Ps — patience, persistence, and positive attitude — to keep the training ball moving forward at a steady pace. That said, raising two puppies can give you hours of entertainment watching them play and experience life together; just keep this image in mind while you’re devoting hours to raising your twins.\n\nWhen left together 24 hours a day, your puppies will form a strong bond to each other, which is good. However, that means they’ll also be less attached to you, which makes influencing their behavior difficult. To prevent that level of bonding, separate them at least twice a day and, if possible, let them sleep in separate bedrooms. Have two crates so that each pup gets used to having their own space.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 144, "chunk_index": 163, "id": "d99d9ab1-ca8d-497c-90e9-20b6a24104b1", "word_count": 322, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 418 } }, { "page_content": "Here are additional hints for making life a little easier for everyone in the 2-puppy house:\n\nRemember that each puppy is different. Sure, certain similarities string all pup- pies together. However, like humans, each one has their unique personality and temperament that affect the way they relate to their world. In a multidog house- hold, everyone must be sensitive to the needs of each puppy.\n\nLet your puppies establish their hierarchy. Personality affects the way puppies relate to one another. Groups of two or more puppies form a hierarchy, with the most outgoing, assertive one assuming the bossier position and often the more protective, demanding role. You may have trouble figuring out which puppy is the leader of your group because it’s not often a straightforward delineation. Puppies don’t base hierar- chy on who’s the biggest or who came first. Nor do they base it wholly on who’s the toughest. Hierarchy is most often based on who’s the most responsible or level- headed in a given situation. The puppy with both the brains and the brawn wins out. Regardless of your feelings, you must support their arrangement.\n\nRemember the discipline rules. The best advice I can give you here is don’t get hot-headed with your puppies. Your puppy won’t understand things that happened moments ago, and together, both pups will view you as a buzzkill. Sure, you’ll get frustrated when you find a mess of any kind — I get that! My family rescues prob- lem dogs, and sometimes I think it’s just to test my resolve.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 145, "chunk_index": 164, "id": "7e654e7a-ed15-4146-ac6d-24bc2a5a84b4", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Directing your frustration at either puppy only weakens your connection to them and strengthens their bond. For suggestions on specific problems, see Chapters 15-17.\n\nAllow wrestling, to a degree. Teach your puppies to go outside or to certain areas of your home to play. If they tend to get out of hand, make treat cups (see Chapter 5) and teach them a universal name like “Pups!” Clap your hands when the play esca- lates, say “Pups,” and then direct them with the treat cup to their play area or redi- rect them to a bone.\n\nPlay the name game. Teach your puppies two names: their names and a universal one that you can use when they’re together, such as “dogs,” “girls,” “boys,” or “babies” — whatever works for you. Using a single name makes calling them easier; “Girls, come!” rolls off the tongue easier than “Buddy, Fifi, Daisy, Marlo, come!” Play the name game with the treat cup, shaking it as you run from them, and then turn- ing and saying “Wait!” Reward them by tossing the treats down (see the Find It game described in Chapter 20) so that you don’t mistakenly encourage jumping.\n\nFeed your pups separately. If you’re having difficulty keeping the puppies sepa- rate, create two separate feeding stations. (See Chapter 5.)\n\nAvoid starting a toy war. I know you want them both to have a toy. But one puppy keeps insisting on having both. You give it back to the other puppy, and they take it away. The giving and taking can go on all day. Remember your leadership rule: If the more assertive puppy wants both, the more assertive puppy gets both. Period.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 145, "chunk_index": 165, "id": "0c209009-3f5b-4ef7-9702-ef6cef5e6006", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppies begin to fight with each other to the point of making you nervous, call a professional to help you resolve the situation. Additionally, if you catch a fight before it begins, shame the underdog and reward the leader with attention. I know it feels unnat- ural, but remember that your dogs aren’t human. If the situation repeats itself, call in a professional.\n\nMost cats would prefer to live without a puppy in the house. Some are fearful of puppies, and others are outright annoyed. Your cat may head for the highest cabi- net and stare at you reproachfully when you bring home a puppy. If you have a confident cat, they’ll probably wait stoically for the puppy to approach close enough for them to give the pup a solid bat on the nose. In any case, keep your responses low-key. Overreacting can put all species on edge.\n\nFollowing are some suggestions to help the introductions go smoothly:\n\n» Place the puppy in a gated room or open playpen (with a special chewy for diversion) and let your cat wander around the room at their own pace. Don’t try to influence or interfere in your cat’s reaction. Reward any interest your cat takes in the new addition with a favorite treat or toy. If you\n\ncan, teach your kitty “Up, up” by gently luring or lifting them onto a high counter or cat tree. If your puppy starts acting up, however, step in to calm the puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 146, "chunk_index": 166, "id": "3bfe7e59-8bae-4d50-9d71-a7bbcfb1f970", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "» When your cat behaves nonchalantly around the puppy (it may take a while; perhaps a week), place the puppy on a light drag lead and bring the two together in a small room. Hold the lead if your puppy acts up and redirect them with a toy. In the coming weeks, have your puppy drag a lead (inside and out, if needed) and continue to use a treat cup to teach them to focus on you when you call and divert their attention to a treat and toy when excited by the cat’s presence.\n\nDon’t be too surprised if your cat growls or bats at the puppy. Directing your frustration at the cat will only make matters more stressful. Your cat is defining their space, which is a necessary boundary for coexistence. Reward any initiative your cat takes to stay in the room with the puppy, erecting shelves or cat trees to satisfy your cat’s instincts to mark (they will scratch an upright post) and climb safely out of reach.\n\nIf you have farm animals or other pets in the house — such as ferrets, birds, or rodents — give the puppy a few days to acclimate to your home before introducing the rest of the menagerie. If your pup’s reaction concerns you, attach a leash to curb their enthusiasm and redirect them to a toy or bone. If your puppy seems too assertive (generally experienced with older puppy rescues), they may not have had the proper conditioning for living harmoniously with other animals during their socialization period. Consider using a head halter to reduce their staring or a basket muzzle to reduce your worry and possible mishap.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 167, "id": "2d33437c-1032-4b92-8813-a1b07924b611", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "When introducing caged critters, bring your puppy in to see them after playtime and with a portion of their meal or high-value treats. Play Find It, gradually inch- ing closer to the enclosure. The goal is to let the puppy habituate to the sound and smell of the critter before becoming fully alert to the animal’s presence. After three sessions of play, see whether you can prompt the critter’s motion and calmly stroke your puppy, saying “Gentle,” or continue to play if they seem unphased by the introduction\n\nIf you have free-roaming animals, introduce them as you would a cat, with the puppy gated in one area or in their playpen or dragging a leash.\n\nWell, you’ve made it home. All the anticipation has come to this very moment. Even though you may want to rush in and give your newest member the full tour, hold your huskies. Simplify the first day by showing them the free-play zone, the room they’ll call home until they’re grounded and potty-trained. Think through the coming weeks and how you can bring your household together to make the most of this impressionable time.\n\nSpeak to your puppy softly and don’t correct them or respond if they have an acci- dent or chews on something they shouldn’t. In the beginning, they’re too disori- ented to retain any information; they’re just getting familiar with their new surroundings and their funny-looking furless family members, so you’ll only succeed in frightening them. Relax. You’ll do fine. This is just the beginning.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 168, "id": "a0461dc2-b00a-44b0-97e5-2b0ee966a788", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Prepare yourself and your family for the fact that the first day home with your puppy can be a little odd. After all the anticipation and preparation, your puppy is home. They may jump right into the mix, or they may pass out for days. You may get one who sleeps straight through the night, or they may be up on and off, whining mournfully. Your puppy may be rough, sweet, or completely aloof. Don’t take anything personally; it may take them a few days or weeks to adjust.\n\nWhen you get home, let your puppy have a drink of water, and then show them to the potty area, whether you’ve planned a place in the front yard or papers in a corner inside. After they have relieved themselves, bring them into the secured free-play zone or gated enclosure.\n\nThough you and your family will be overjoyed, your puppy will likely be disori- ented and confused. Stay calm, either watching or validating their interests by getting down on their level and taking a virtual tour with your nose. Though you may rely on your eyes when it comes to familiarizing yourself with a new place, puppies orient themselves through their sense of smell. If your puppy wants to rest, place a cozy blanket in your lap and be a quiet presence. You’re showing them that this new space is okay, and acting like a calm and cool adult dog gives your puppy reassurance that they have someone to lean on. Discourage anybody who overwhelms your puppy with their interests or affections. Your puppy will need time to adjust.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 148, "chunk_index": 169, "id": "29369be1-7457-4aee-8453-19bf82b2de1a", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "Ideally, your puppy should sleep near someone at night. Because your puppy won’t be used to sleeping alone, they’ll often be distressed and up all night calling for their littermates. Keep your newbie close to you for the first few nights at least. If you must leave them alone, play soothing music to ease the fear of unfamiliar noises.\n\nThe first week is quite progressive. By day two or three, you’ll notice your puppy watching you and getting excited when you walk through the door. You may be surprised to note the different reactions, but their emerging reactivity is a sure sign that they feel safe and welcomed. Try to keep yourself calm, especially when your puppy gets excited, because you don’t want to encourage hyper greeting manners before your puppy has cut their baby teeth.\n\nOrganize the day, using the sleep and house-training schedule shown in Table 7-1, and remain patient with accidents or exploratory chewing, especially if your puppy is in the infant stage (younger than 16 weeks of age). If you notice your puppy chewing furniture or wires, use a distasteful bitter-apple spray to discour- age their curiosity, or tape the wires out of reach. Puppy-proof each area you share by placing objects such as dish towels and shoes out of reach. Prevention is worth pounds of cure.\n\nAvoid loud or physical interference, because it only overwhelms your puppy and discourages bonding. Running and shouting “No” to a puppy may make them stop at the moment, but you’d stop too if someone shouted at you. Your puppy doesn’t understand; you’ll only succeed in making them afraid of people.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 149, "chunk_index": 170, "id": "f2b54b3c-2689-4cb9-81b9-68cb92f9c490", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "During these early days, the most important lessons are\n\n» Helping your puppy learn their name: Fill a plastic container with some of your puppy’s food or favorite treats. Voilà — you now have a treat cup. Shake it and reward your puppy until they make the association between the sound and getting a treat. Next, call their name when they’re unsuspecting as you shake the cup and reward their attention. Within a day or two, phase off the cup and watch as your puppy alerts happily to their name.\n\n» Teaching your puppy where to go to get each of their needs met: Your puppy will be most focused on where to go for food, water, sleep, and potty. Assign words to each routine, as detailed in the Needs chart (Table 6-2) at the end of Chapter 6, to help your puppy associate words with actions.\n\nThe first month with any puppy is a critical bonding time. As the days and weeks pass, you’ll notice your puppy’s confidence and awareness of you growing. They’ll initiate routines by going to the door when they have to go out or standing by their bowl at mealtime. Your puppy is communicating with you! Now you can continue the magic by thinking of early efforts as though you were teaching a newly adopted baby English as a second language. Your puppy’s first language is posturing and body cues; though they can learn words, you’ll need to pair them with gestures and routines. By paying attention and interpreting the meaning behind their actions, you’ll forge a bond that will last a lifetime.\n\nWhen puppies are very young, their whole bodies and brains are absorbed in encoding new experiences, from the smells in your kitchen to the sound of the dishwasher. How puppies react to these sensations depends on their temperament and how you engage and interact with them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 149, "chunk_index": 171, "id": "0a5ab080-779d-4385-b571-ea57335352fc", "word_count": 314, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 408 } }, { "page_content": "Here is a quick list of habits and words to get started on during the first month you’re together:\n\n» “Get your ball or toy.” When playing with your puppy, say “Go get your toy” as you toss a toy and let them chase it. I love the toys that are attached to a pole — they’re perfect for exhausting and diverting your puppy’s hunting and grabbing energy. Use the phrase to play and redirect your puppy whenever they’re excited; when greeting people, for example.\n\nDon’t worry about retrieving games at this stage: Most puppies are too young to share. The goal of this game is to teach your puppy what they can grab, have, and hold (“Go get your ball or toy!”) and what they can’t — namely, you. » Play treat cup games. Make a treat cup as described in Chapter 5. After your puppy makes the sound-treat connection, teach them the 4-paw rule. Shake the cup and reward your puppy if they hold still; if they jump, lift the cup above your head and look up. Flip to Chapter 8 to learn how to condition an automatic Sit, and then incorporate Sit into this routine. You can use the treat cup to teach your puppy to come to their name — shake the cup and run 5 to 10 feet away from your puppy as you call their name; say “Come” as you release the treat.\n\n» “Say hello.” To encourage proper greeting manners, wait to greet your puppy until they’re calm enough to sit for a treat. As you reach out to pet them, say the words “Say hello.” Eventually, they will learn that this phrase means to greet people on all four paws. Remember that good manners start at home.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 150, "chunk_index": 172, "id": "897e719e-564c-481e-bcfc-0b42a086b97e", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "» To encourage licking on command, spread a thin coat of butter on your hand and say “kisses” as you offer your puppy your open palm. When your puppy nips your hand, let your hand go limp until they stop, or remove their mouth gently as you remind them to give “kisses” instead. More tips in Chapter 15.\n\nPuppies aren’t perfect: Not all their messages are heartwarming. Sometimes your puppy will be bored and demand your attention by jumping up, barking, or grab- bing a shoe or paper towel. As you work through the many joys and frustrations of puppyhood, remember that even bad behavior is a sign of healthy development — it signals that your puppy is engaged, focused, and dependent on you. This is the time to start communicating your routines and rules to your puppy in a calm, consistent manner.\n\nA lot of what they learn happens when you don’t even know it, like when you approach their gate or crate. Wait until your puppy is relaxed and standing on all four paws in their enclosure before you open or step over a gate or lift them out; otherwise, you’ll teach the opposite. It’s the same with food or water: Wait to lower the dish until your puppy can sit still. Whining and barking are other habits that start early. Ignore your puppy’s vocal demands unless you’re certain that they need to go out. More tips on dealing with all sorts of frustrating behavior are in Chapter 15; skip ahead, if you need to.\n\nPuppies, like kids, love attention. And, like kids, they don’t care if the attention is negative or positive. Shouting, pushing, and grabbing wont’ discourage a puppy — they’re interpreted as confrontational play and make a puppy more reactive, not less.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 151, "chunk_index": 173, "id": "2aaedfa2-6ddf-4289-9ef1-67bc8c189b58", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "During the first month, your puppy will experience everything for the first time. Given all the sounds and stimulations they face, there is sure to be something that will likely startle your puppy: Fear of the unknown is completely natural and your puppy’s startle reflex, a powerful force. Stay calm. Though you’ll be tempted to soothe your puppy when they’re fearful of an object or sound, the best approach is to stay calm and act like it’s nothing. The been-there-seen-that attitude gives your puppy far more reassurance than bending over and soothing them, and it encourages them to look and bond to you as their authority on everything life-related.\n\nSome puppies relish the comfort of being held in someone’s arms. Many small breeds love the reassurance of being held tightly by someone larger whom they trust. But, like kids, no puppy wants to be held all the time. Pick up your puppy only when they’re calm and restful. If your puppy squirms to be let down, don’t take it personally. There’s a time to hold and a time to let go.\n\nWhen holding a puppy, keep their spine to the ceiling and belly to the floor: This is a great mantra for kids and grown-ups alike. I refer to the proper way to hold a puppy as the heart hold, where you embrace the puppy sideways so that your hearts are pressed together, holding their hips and shoulder joints snug to your body.\n\nPuppies don’t like to have their legs dangling, and many puppies feel scared when flipped on their back. If your puppy appears to be uncomfortable in your arms, they are. Ask your veterinarian or another professional how to best lift, carry, and hold your puppy if you need guidance. By holding your puppy securely, they’ll sense your loving power, which helps them bond to you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 151, "chunk_index": 174, "id": "471100df-76e7-4135-8c0c-c54c23f6e01f", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "If you have a small or young puppy, don’t hesitate to lift them into a heart hold whenever they’re meeting a new dog. If you’re certain that the dog or other puppy is safe and can be trusted not to attack your puppy, kneel down and let the bigger dog smell your puppy thoroughly. If a helper is present, ask them to hold your puppy while you pet and playfully engage the other dog. You’re letting your puppy witness your courage firsthand. In the moment, or over time, your puppy will grow more confident greeting other dogs and learn that sniffing is the proper way to say hello — at least if you’re a dog.\n\n» Learning the laws and unwritten doggie etiquette codes in your community\n\nBringing up a well-rounded puppy isn’t a 1-person job, even if you live alone.\n\nHowever, if you’re surrounded by family members or friends, striking a balance between consistency and cooperation takes some effort. You soon find out that sometimes your puppy is easier to train than your partner, kids, or roommate. If you’re living near other people — whether in a subdivision, an apartment complex, or a busy urban neighborhood — incorporating your newbie may be tricky too. You’ll quickly discover just who is a puppy lover and who isn’t. Another paramount goal is finding the right outside help — from a veterinarian and dog walker to a fun, informative puppy teacher. In this chapter, you discover how to pull together Team Puppy to help raise a happy, well-behaved dog.\n\nIf I were asked to boil down family life with a new puppy to a single all-important concept, it would be this: Be consistent. It won’t matter what your rules are and whether your puppy is off the furniture or not or given organic bones to chew or old shoes as long as everyone is on the same page.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 152, "chunk_index": 175, "id": "d07eea04-f2ad-44e5-acdb-012d03f0114a", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "One area that causes manic confusion is at the front door. If one person welcomes the rowdy puppy, while another gets mad, and still another tries to redirect their attention to a toy, the puppy will not have a clear vision on the proper greeting etiquette in your home.\n\nIf you can give your puppy one gift, let it be this: Gather your family around and decide on a few ground rules, such as whether you’ll let your puppy do any of the activities in this list:\n\nThough the answers to some of these questions might seem obvious to you, every- one is different and may not see it your way. Have the discussions up front and away from the puppy to avoid in-the-moment aggravations.\n\nEncouraging Positive Interactions between Kids and Pups\n\nOne hallmark of my childhood was my dog, Shawbee, who was a husky-shepherd mix. She was my constant companion, waiting for me at the bus stop, hanging outside the church while I took ballet lessons, and sharing my ice cream cone on a hot summer day.\n\nToday, kids are often overstimulated at a young age, and they have less time to hang out with dogs. Riding bikes and running around are often limited to parks where dogs aren’t allowed. To boot, young puppies and young kids don’t always hit it off. In some circumstances, the puppy views the child as another puppy to bite and bully. At other times, a child becomes jealous of the attention the new addition is getting, which leads to sibling rivalry between the child and the puppy. But as the ringleader in your household, you can help your kids and puppy hit it off and have a rewarding relationship.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 154, "chunk_index": 176, "id": "410cb5f0-26ae-43d4-8f28-25076176c068", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "With time, patience, understanding, and the guidance I provide in this section, you can teach your kids to interact with the puppy in practical ways and coach your puppy to respect their human siblings.\n\nKids like to help and be involved, but training exercises can bore them to tears. Face it: To a 5-year-old, mud wrestling for two hours is more exciting than a 2-minute “Follow” lesson. Training exercises are just no fun, and the phrase “It’s your responsibility to feed Roxy” has a negative spin. The good news is that your kids get involved when the routines are upbeat and creative.\n\nBefore you teach the kids how best to play and teach the puppy, buy or make treat cups (see Chapter 5) and fill them with a trail mix of some tasty treats or mealtime kibbles. If your kids are crafty, have them decorate the cups with markers or stick- ers. When that’s taken care of, have them try out three quick kid-safe games they can play with the puppy:\n\n» Multi-toy toss. Perch a child (or two) on a kitchen counter or have the kids stand on the opposite side of the gate, with five or more of the puppy’s favorite toys. Have the kids say “Wait” as they hold the toy in front of the puppy, but have them hold off tossing until the puppy is still. Urge a tossing phrase like “Go get your toy!” Don’t worry about fetching at this point. When your puppy grabs the toy, have the kids pull out another and call the puppy over to start the process all over again.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 155, "chunk_index": 177, "id": "7839919d-3287-4111-8db0-d380b0b9eff4", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "» Run-run-stop. Play this game with your kid or kids until your puppy shows good impulse control — not jumping or nipping, in other words. Begin by standing with your puppy and child in the free-play area or outdoors. Give your child the treat cup, have them shake it as they call the pup’s name, and then have them run just five steps away from the puppy. After a short run the child turns and holds out their arm like a traffic cop, saying “Stop” in a strong voice. The moment your puppy stops and holds still they should drop a treat at their feet, saying “Find it!”\n\nIf the puppy jumps or nips, either place a freedom line on your puppy so that you can interfere by stepping on it or have the child cover their eyes with their hands (the peek-a-boo solution described in Chapter 15), or, if the puppy scares them, lift or place the child out of reach. (If your child is too young to manage this game on their own, recruit them as your special helper as you play it for them.)\n\n» Hide-n-seek. Give your kid (or kids) a treat cup and ask them to hide around the corner or a piece of furniture. Have them wait to shake the cup and then have them call their puppy the moment you say the child’s name. When your child is out of sight, ask your puppy “Where’s Sophie?”— at which point Sophie should call your puppy as she shakes the treat cup. If your puppy is confused, go with them to find the child. Start with easy finds before moving outside or attempting more challenging hides.\n\nDon’t leave young children alone with a puppy: Both species are mastering impulse control and can hurt each other unintentionally.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 155, "chunk_index": 178, "id": "120af67d-751e-48a7-89c5-21cdcfd8c9d1", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "If you have kids, I’m sure you’ve already faced reality: They’re not always angels! Kids can run hot and cold: One minute they encourage play with their puppy, and the next they’re shouting that the puppy is hurting them. Neither species is all that sensible, and you’ll have to step in more often than not.\n\nMy favorite phrase, whether you’re raising kids or puppies, is this: You’re the one on the park bench; they’re the ones on the rollercoaster. In other words, when either the kid or the puppy is getting wild, you need to remain calm. Yelling at either puppy or child will upset the balancing act between them even more.\n\nHere are some quick phrases and kid-safe moves I use with families in my private practice. They get life back on course as quickly as their wacky energy spirals out of control. Bottom line? Though kids and puppies love to play, their interactions can become scary to kids when the puppy starts nipping in fun.\n\n» Alligator Island: Designate a countertop in your free-play zone as Alligator Island. Lift the kids onto the counter or tell them to hop up there for safety. After they’re safe on the island, they should ignore the pup until they’re calm or, if they want to continue playing, toss toys once the puppy stands or sits calmly on all four paws.\n\n» See you later: As long as your kid and puppy are still working out the rules of play, make sure there’s an easy exit over the gate or out the door. Use a phrase like “Bye-bye” or “See you later” as you leave quickly anytime your puppy is jumping or nipping.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 156, "chunk_index": 179, "id": "a65f4bee-43d2-4c91-8d8b-41ace8be180d", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "» Treat cup redirect: Puppies as young as 8 weeks old can learn the connec- tion between hearing the treat cup shake and getting a reward. Teach the kids to toss treats on the floor and say “Find it” instead of directly handing the puppy the treat. Place treat cups in strategic locations and teach kids to use them to redirect the puppy when they become rowdy.\n\nTreats tossed on the floor teach puppies to look down when they’re anticipating a reward.\n\nSet up situations that your pup can expect to encounter to teach them how to han- dle themselves — such as the kids’ running frenzies, snack time, or floor-level gaming. Redirect your puppy’s focus away from the kids, using techniques like the counter condition skills and desensitization techniques detailed in Chapter 15. If your puppy can’t detach from the kids’ fun, use a freedom line and a choice of compassion wear (see Chapter 5) so that choking their neck doesn’t intensify their frenzy. With a leash and the right training techniques, you can remedy many everyday occurrences between kids and puppies — behavior like mouthing and nipping, food grabbing, and chasing. (Chapter 15 provides more details on training to overcome these and other daily hassles.)\n\nGetting Help with Shaping Good Manners from Day One\n\nA puppy’s early learning takes place primarily through cause-and-effect. If they get any attention (good or bad) or a reward when they do X (X can be just about anything — sitting or jumping or playing with a toy or whining or pottying in the right place on the carpet), they’ll do it again.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 157, "chunk_index": 180, "id": "8433dff8-40ae-46af-9627-6508f1f16298", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Because early lessons are the most significant, I’ve outlined crib notes in the hope of helping you motivate your family and friends’ participation.\n\nYour goal with house-training aligns with your puppy’s impulse to leave their liv- ing space to go potty. Because your puppy needs to relieve themselves after eating\n\nor drinking, resting, playing, or enduring long bouts of isolation, take them to an assigned spot in either a private and papered corner of your home or outdoors 10 to 20 feet from the door. Set a route to the bathroom area, and use words and gestures to guide your puppy each time you escort them. The important thing is to develop a routine. Here’s one I can recommend\n\n1. Take the puppy from the crate to the designated bathroom spot, saying “Go to the papers,” or “Outside.”\n\n2. Wait to give the pup attention until they’re pottying in the right place. 3. Say “Get busy” as they potty, either poop or pee. 4. Greet, play with, or walk the puppy after they’re done. In preparation for the inevitable “accidents,” set up cleaning stations in strategic places, equipped with paper towels and house-soiling spray.\n\nAll puppies are enthusiastic about their relationships and naturally try to get “up close and personal” whenever it’s time for a proper greeting. That means they instinctively want to jump up and engage in some face-to-face contact, just like Great-Aunt Ernestine used to do. If one of your human friends or relations is eager for a kiss, ask them to wait until your puppy is on all four paws before com- ing down to their level. Here are other tips and creative ways to elicit help in teaching your puppy the 4-paw rule.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 157, "chunk_index": 181, "id": "9b5081bc-51e0-443c-a202-460169924b0e", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "» Teach your helpers that your puppy will repeat whatever gets the attention of the humans around them. Ask them to place their hands over their faces, as though they’re playing peekaboo, and wait until the puppy settles on four paws to greet, pat, or play with them.\n\n» Place treat cups around your home in strategic locations. Show family mem-\n\nbers how to shake the cup to encourage your puppy’s attention, but ask them to withhold the treat until your puppy is standing calmly on all four paws. » Put toy baskets around the house and by the front door. Encourage everyone to direct your puppy to “Get your toy” throughout the day and when people arrive or they’re getting excited.\n\nPuppies, like kids, like to keep busy. Kids play with their hands, puppies with their mouths. If you don’t have toys for the kids, they’ll make do — with your things.\n\nIf you don’t give puppies toys to chew on, they’ll settle for whatever they can find. If you’d rather they chew on their toys and not on your running shoes, I recom- mend the following strategies:\n\n» Place puppy baskets around the house at your puppy’s level. Ask everyone to direct your puppy to the basket, by saying “Go get your bone!” Gather the toys and put them back when the puppy is done playing.\n\n» Choose a few different words for different toys — like “toy,” “ball,” and “bone.” Encourage everyone to name the object as they toss it. Soon your puppy will be able to identify up to five different toys.\n\n» Ask everyone to direct or redirect your puppy to their toys if they seem bored", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 182, "id": "7f5e3e75-9d5e-4ba5-9a4d-44672b493764", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "» Have a spray deterrents (like bitter apple) around the house to spray objects or furnishings that your puppy may show an interest in chewing. Remind everyone to spray the item, not the puppy.\n\nDesignate a routine for family mealtimes and share it with everyone. A puppy can either go back in the crate with a tasty chew or settle in their comfort station. If needed, a family member or friend can sit on the leash to keep your puppy from wandering or getting into trouble.\n\nA puppy can’t sit still if they have a pressing need. Make sure your puppy has been fed, has gone potty, and has grown tired before expecting them to chill while you eat.\n\nNipping puppies are generally overstimulated, needy, or tired. Show everyone the Needs chart from Chapter 6 (Table 6-2) and encourage consistent words and rou- tines. If your puppy is nipping, remind everyone to\n\n» Review the puppy’s needs. A lack of sleep creates mania, so make sure your puppy rests 4 to 6 hours every day in addition to 10 to 12 hours at night. Avoid pushing, shouting and discipling your puppy face to face, because your puppy will see your theatrics as confrontational play. Instead, review which need might be distracting them.\n\n» Avoid prolonged or assertively staring at you puppy when you address them. Either of these actions may be interpreted as confrontational play, making rowdy problems worse, not better. If the puppy cannot be redirected to a toy, stop touching them. To an excited young puppy, touch excites interactive play.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 159, "chunk_index": 183, "id": "f612120f-8da6-4210-addb-5e0648634c38", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy is still nipping and acting wild with older pets or kids, have them drag an indoor freedom line or leash. Also, consider the compassion wear head collar. (Read about it in Chapter 5.) This compassion wear enables anyone to take calm control without startling or interveneing with the puppy physcially.\n\nAny physical or verbal intervention with a young puppy is perceived as play — adding to the puppy’s idea of fun, not helping to calm them down.\n\nI’m sure you’ve heard the phrase “It takes a village to raise a child.” Well, the same holds true for a puppy. Take time to surround yourself with a happy clan of outside helpers, and be sure to keep their contact info close at hand because you’ll lean on these people more than you think. This section gives you an idea of who needs to make up your clan.\n\nA movement is afloat to change the way professionals handle and think about their beloved dogs (and cats). Known as the Fear Free Initiative, this progressive movement was founded and is organized by “America’s veterinarian,” Marty Becker, with the goal of promoting a force-free, respectful manner of treating and managing dogs and positively conditioning puppies. Although the initial focus was on revolutionizing modern veterinarian treatment and hospital design, the Fear Free Initiative has grown into a certification hub for other pet care profes- sions, including groomers, daycare, and training facilities. Fear Free even edu- cates and certifies dog loving homes! To find out more about Marty Becker’s Fear Free Initiative, log on to https://fearfreepets.com.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 184, "id": "7d2eb066-8ab2-4197-8b4e-5f5675520664", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Think of your dog’s veterinarian as being on par with your doctor or your child’s pediatrician. Medical knowledge is essential, but a good bedside manner is the cherry on top of the sundae. Speak with the receptionists and bring in your pup for a cheerful social call before their initial visit. Talk to the doctor like they’re a neighbor. Do you feel comfortable sharing all your canine concerns with them?\n\nIf you’re unsure of which veterinarian to use, ask around. You can narrow your search by asking your friends and family whom they use and why.\n\nPuppies can be quite impulsive — they often swallow things that look edible before even considering whether they are. So, at your puppy’s first veterinary visit, ask the doctor for a recommended method for inducing vomiting. You should also find out the poison-control hotline number and always keep it on your phone in case of an emergency. Seek out a 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital in your area as well. Keep the hospital’s number by or on your phone. Accidents can happen during off hours, so have a plan.\n\nWhether your life demands consistent hours away from home or circumstance steps in to temporarily rearrange your schedule, knowing a dog walker can make the difference between a happy puppy and a stressed-out one. Puppies are like human babies in that they have a strong need dependency. Even though an adult dog can hold their bladder until you get home or can survive until a late meal, your puppy may well eat the walls of your house if you get stuck in traffic. A reliable dog walker can be a godsend in times like these.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 185, "id": "78e31b9d-9aca-4142-8fc7-e5ba1c84dd9e", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Ask around and interview a couple of dog walkers before you need one. Planning ahead of time makes handling crises that much easier. When considering dog walkers, remember that reputation counts, as does your puppy’s reaction, so be sure to ask for references and allow your puppy to consider the candidate. Tail- wagging and kisses are equivalent to double-thumbs-up.\n\nBecause anyone can hang out a shingle and claim to be a dog walker, look for walkers who are insured and certified with a known dog-walking group. These days you can use popular online sites, like www.rover.com/ to find a dog walker— a site that can be especially useful when traveling with your pet. Get references, no matter who you choose!\n\nPuppy training techniques vary considerably. More and more trainers are sug- gesting 100 percent positive reinforcement and are coaching their clients to address their puppies only when they are doing everything right. Sometimes that can feel impossible for us human, but you can’t go wrong with this approach. I support positive reinforcement trainers wholeheartedly.\n\nOver the years, I’ve developed my philosophy, which has a slightly different slant. My goal is to teach my clients how to live happily with their puppy by developing", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 186, "id": "7b7388e6-3816-4ec3-87d6-e204f68c2f5e", "word_count": 203, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 263 } }, { "page_content": "systems and routines that their puppy can both identify with, count-on, and enjoy. Instead of commanding a puppy to obey, I teach puppies to identify words much like I would teach a foreigner English as a second language. When a puppy recognizes words like Place, Come, and Get Your Toy, it’s easy to help them man- age their day. People training is a big part of my program too: I teach my human clients the importance of sitting or kneeling to pet or handle their puppy instead of bending over them, creating calming station for their puppy in the rooms they share, and playing with their puppy to strengthen their bond. Consistent rituals, like food sleep and potty rituals, can make all the difference in having a puppy who feels calm and one that is anxious and out of sorts. In my world, training is as much for the people as the puppy. At the end of the day, puppies need to learn where to go and what to do in a range of situations: “Sit” as a matter of saying please, “Come” to mean that you’re standing together, and “Get your bone” and “Go to your place” as a way to offer comfort when your puppy is fretting or alone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 162, "chunk_index": 187, "id": "322ea520-5567-4224-86d7-55cd64a66399", "word_count": 211, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 274 } }, { "page_content": "Some trainers follow the traditional alpha-dog methods — ones that assert we have God-like authority over our dogs and that dogs should listen to us robotically or bear our fury — were used decades ago and popularized by some celebrity trainers. They use physical discipline and often bully their clients’ puppies with threatening mannerisms and battery-operated shock or vibrating collars. I never encourage these methods. Although a puppy may stop a behavior—who wouldn’t freeze if shocked or threatened by a virtual stranger? — their cooperation comes at too high a cost to their joy and well-being. Fearful puppies may behave because puppies, like kids, are easily intimidated, but the majority mature to become manic or defensive dogs. Please avoid trainers suggesting any of these techniques.\n\nSometimes you just need a kind professional to sort out just how best to raise your puppy to be the dog you want them to be. Puppies are frustrating — I get that. They’re like children in their curiosity, energy, and desire for adventure. Raising a puppy is hard work, but your efforts will be rewarded! This section covers ways to get help with your puppy if you need it. Select your professional carefully, by reviewing their credentials as selectively as you would for a child.\n\nA group training program is worth its weight in dog biscuits. Social time mixed with structure and training blend for an experience that’s fun for everyone involved. Look for a program that targets the size and age of your puppy, wel- comes families (if you have one you want to bring along), and one that limits", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 162, "chunk_index": 188, "id": "88d9f605-f1c0-47ba-91db-9778f998db78", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "enrollment to four to eight puppies. The teacher who is teaching the class is important, too — make sure you can talk with them should you have a specific question and that they are tuned in to your individual puppy. As I always say, there is something nice about every person and puppy I meet — find someone who likes you both! You’re undergoing training as much or more than your puppy: You should look forward to class, too.\n\nPuppies are impulsive and excitable. Find a class whose teacher takes excitability in stride and teaches with rewards and encouragement — and who doesn’t single out anyone’s puppy as problematic or perfect. All puppies are who they are, and the goal of the school is to find the magic in each student.\n\nFree play is the time during a kindergarten class when the puppies get to race about and get to know the other puppies and people in the classroom.\n\nIf your situation has grown dire or desperate or you have the impulse and funds to hire a private puppy trainer to help you raise your pup, finding a positive coach to guide you can make quite a difference.\n\nI’ve been teaching dogs and people for over 30 years, and although I could quit to devote myself to writing, making media appearances, and speaking in public, I wouldn’t dream of it. I love helping people and families understand and live happily with puppies!\n\nI’ve seen dog training techniques change and evolve a lot over the years. Starting in 1986, I was one of only two professional dog trainers in Westchester County, New York, where I still live. Now there’s a trainer in every neighborhood, and though just about anyone can get a “certification” online, no licensing or accred- iting organization can help you identify a qualified professional.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 163, "chunk_index": 189, "id": "aa562f20-0153-4078-a7d0-20dbdbe45094", "word_count": 306, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 397 } }, { "page_content": "So, where do you begin when searching for a dog training professional? And how can you tell whether the person you’ve hired is right for you and your dog? Start by imagining your puppy as a toddler standing in front of a grown-up who doesn’t speak the same language. These large people are talking, gesturing, smiling, frowning, and maybe yelling — whoa. What do these people want me to do?\n\nThat’s how your dog feels — like a fur-clad 2-year-old in a foreign land. A good dog trainer is like a nursery school teacher and a sympathetic translator rolled into one. Keep looking — you’re sure to find someone who has devoted their life to helping other people learn how to communicate and teach their puppies effectively.\n\nDog training even has franchises — just like a McDonald’s restaurant. Anyone with capital can invest and call themselves a dog trainer. Sure, most people get into dog training because they love dogs, but it takes more than just a savvy mar- keting plan to help people and dogs communicate effectively.\n\nA great option for busy families and professionals is digital dog training. With the advent of real-time nanny cams, your puppy’s behavior can be recorded, shared, and discussed without the trainer having to experience it firsthand. Generally, more cost-effective sessions can be organized online or over the phone that cover topics from how to choose the right dog or puppy to problem-solving and training issues.\n\nThe benefits are tremendous: I’ve been doing digital sessions globally with great success for years, offering fresh insight on a whole range of questions and frus- trations. It’s also a cost-effective and quick way for someone considering private help to test the waters. Before choosing a digital dog trainer, consider their repu- tation and certifications.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 163, "chunk_index": 190, "id": "6a004abc-3a00-4ac9-b8bc-113aa1171199", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "Groomers have a tough job, so I give them a lot of credit. Many dogs backpedal before they even reach the door. Many growl when approached, and a few may even need to be muzzled. Grooming is often a thankless job. You can greatly shape your puppy’s opinion of the groomer by exercising your puppy before bringing them in, keeping them combed between visits (to keep painful knots at bay), and introducing them to the groomer’s handling techniques from early puppyhood.\n\nWhen deciding on a groomer, review their qualifications and certifications. Visit each facility ahead of time and ask to see where the dogs are stationed while they’re waiting their turn or drying. What vibes do you get from each place? Do the dogs who are already there seem happy or stressed? Is it clean and almost odor free? Would you want to get a haircut there if you were a dog?\n\nWatch the groomer’s handling techniques. Is the person empathetic — do they speak gently or harshly to your dog? Though a groomer may need to be firm with your dog to keep them still during the process, they shouldn’t be cruel or abusive.\n\nIf the idea of wrangling your puppy into a groomer doesn’t get your tail wagging, you should realize that some groomers will come to your home, either using your bathing facilities or arriving in a full-service grooming van. Some of my clients use this service and are happy with it. Consider what you and your dog would prefer.\n\nI love the concept of daycare for your dog, especially if you work all day, but there are good daycare centers and poorly managed daycare centers. Pick yours wisely; visit ahead of time or watch a live feed online to determine how the day will go.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 164, "chunk_index": 191, "id": "4ed301b9-93de-4cb1-9501-a63f98dd4c7d", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "Do the dogs enjoy playing with one another? Are they supervised? Do you notice one dog picking on or frightening the other dogs (bullying, canine style)? All dogs should enjoy attending daycare — the last thing you want is for your dog to learn bad habits from other dogs.\n\n» How are the dogs and puppies grouped? Small dogs should not be intermin- gled with large ones. High-energy dogs should not be paired with older, quieter, or physically compromised dogs. Ask what type of dogs the facility would pair your puppy with.\n\n» What does the staff do when a dogfight breaks out? » Who is the veterinarian on staff? If the vet is offsite, where is the office\n\n» Does the pet center kennel overnight? » What contingency plans are in place if you’re delayed and can’t pick up your\n\n» Does the pet center offer auxiliary services, such as grooming, training,\n\nBear in mind that your puppy may be exhausted after their visit to daycare. If training, walking, and bonding are high on your priority list, plan these events for another day. Your puppy may be blissfully brain-dead when they get home.\n\nPuppies, like kids, pick up both good and bad habits from their friends. If you notice your puppy roughhousing or being uncharacteristically defiant, ask to meet the dogs they play with. If their playmates are rubbing off bad energy, you may consider asking whether your puppy can be placed in another group. Or, consider taking a break from daycare until your puppy is more mature, because an older puppy or dog is less likely to acquire bad habits.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 165, "chunk_index": 192, "id": "ff476f6a-b33f-4aea-b97c-f0beae7b24ef", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Dog parks are fine places for dogs and dog lovers, but wait until your puppy is at least 7 months old before joining in on the fun. Until reaching their adolescence,\n\nyour puppy will be annoyingly persistent, and though most dogs recognize the smell and gestures of young puppies, some don’t. The risk at a dog park is that your puppy will annoy an undersocialized-though-free-ranging dog or dogs to the point of distraction and get attacked by one or more of them. My opinion? It’s way too risky to chance.\n\nBefore bringing your puberty-age puppy to a dog park, check the place out. Though each dog park is organized differently, a properly run park should have a list of rules — usually posted at the entrance — to ensure that everyone enjoys their time at the park.\n\nSome days will be perfect — your dog will meet nice friends, you’ll bond with the other pup parents, and your dog will sleep like a log when you get home. Other days, the bullies will be running the park, no one will laugh at your jokes, and your dog will throw up in the car. That’s okay. Just leave. And always leave — right away — if any dog (maybe even yours) is being aggressive. Though it’s rare, seri- ous dogfights have erupted at dog parks.\n\nBring a supply of food rewards and favorite toys with you to the park. Offer one whenever your dog returns to you. Your dog may be well behaved at home, but the freedom and fun of a dog park will test their listening skills.\n\nMost parks have poop bags and water available, but it’s always wise to bring your own supply.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 165, "chunk_index": 193, "id": "63c65935-33ae-49f3-a713-c59ca4f0c25d", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "“It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood . . .” until, of course, you hear the con- stant serenade of a barking dog. I love my neighborhood dearly, but one quiet summer day, my neighbors left for the beach and tied their 8-month-old beagle (bless her little soul) out in the yard. That day, I swore I’d move to Barbados. However, the annoying barking was pitiful — poor Betsy the beagle was lonely, frantic for her family’s return. I went over after 3 hours to console her and found that her water dish was empty. I gave her a fresh bowl and a chew bone, which kept her busy the rest of the afternoon.\n\nThere’s a lot to keep in mind when trying to be a good dog neighbor, and fortu- nately, this section can help. If you’re new to puppyhood, it helps to know the basics: Fortunately, it isn’t too tricky. Here are the top five rules to being a good puppy neighbor:\n\n» Scoop the poop. Make a habit of cleaning up your puppy’s elimination the\n\nmoment they go to the bathroom. Aside from the obvious sanitation element, when your puppy is praised and sees you picking up their mess in the right location, they’re more likely to go there again.\n\n» Select the pooping place. Teach your puppy to potty near your front door", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 166, "chunk_index": 194, "id": "6815373f-7aa8-448d-af1f-45fd009d6a98", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "whether you live in an apartment, flat, or house. Though it’s tempting to want to walk your puppy as far from your home as possible, you wouldn’t potty- train a kid by sending them to the neighbors’ bathroom, right? Because dogs mark their boundaries (also known as their territory), make sure your puppy learns where their property begins and ends. If you let them potty around the ’hood, as they mature they may become more reactive or excitable on leash as puppies identify their territory by scent marking. If your puppy is the reactive type, they’ll likely be more reactive in the house as well, alerting when others pass your window.\n\n» Be mindful of barking. Waking up to a barking dog or puppy is no fun. Avoid letting your puppy out before 7 a.m. and after 9 p.m., or talk to your neighbor if you’re worried that the barking might be bothering their peace of mind.\n\nBarking puppies are not happy puppies. If yours is barking uncontrollably, consider their state: Could chewing a bone, engaging in some interactive play, or experiencing the pleasure of your company calm their worries?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 167, "chunk_index": 195, "id": "b9fa169b-f361-4754-acd8-bbe92562fe4e", "word_count": 190, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 247 } }, { "page_content": "» Condition your puppy to everyday noises. Most puppies alert to unfamiliar sights and sounds by barking, either in alarm or as a defense mechanism. Barking can develop into a bothersome routine if you don’t get a quick, calm, and steady handle on it; see Chapter 15 for tips. Do your part in puppyhood to limit the startle reactions in your puppy by conditioning them to everyday noises — ranging from visits from delivery people to sounds just beyond the wall to neighbors passing by the front window. To do this, simply place treat cups in strategic locations so that when you hear a familiar noise or either you see or the puppy sees something beyond reach, you can quickly grasp the cup, shake it, and redirect your puppy to a chew toy or fun activity. Remember to move back and away from the center of the distraction. For more help on this issue, flip ahead to Chapter 15 and read up on curbing the barking habit.\n\nWhen leaving your puppy, put on some gentle music to drown out incoming sounds, dim the lights and close the blinds to block activity, and leave them with a satisfying chew toy.\n\nIf you leave your puppy outdoors, provide them with access to a shaded area and plenty of fresh water. If you’re expecting inclement weather, don’t leave your puppy alone outside. Go with them to their potty area and bring them directly back inside after they’re done.\n\nIf your puppy suffers from separation anxiety, they will suffer more if crated. Flip to that section in Chapter 16 for more tips on helping them cope when left alone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 167, "chunk_index": 196, "id": "2d6eb7e1-0b32-44e0-bb1f-b8ced3c3aa03", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Until your puppy is 5 or 6 months old, use a freedom line to play with them in your yard or an open park: Young puppies react strongly to being pulled or held in one place, and forcing them to remain tethered to you can cause fear and, later, explo- sive leash reactivity. As your puppy is maturing, you may begin to walk them around the neighborhood, but make every effort to teach them considerate walking skills.\n\nStart by selecting a piece of compassion wear (either a front clip or head harness) to begin with, rather than affix your puppy to a neck collar and take them on a drag.\n\nTake five to seven short walks (no more than 5 minutes apiece) inside your home, teaching your puppy their first walking words: Follow-Wait-Find-It.\n\n» Follow: This word directs your puppy to follow your lead! Project your voice in the direction you want your puppy to follow and stop every few steps initially (gradually lengthening the steps you take) to stop your puppy as directed below.\n\n» Wait: This word teaches your puppy to stop, look, and listen to you. To teach it, stop suddenly, and quickly direct your puppy to Find It as outlined below. If your puppy doesn’t stay with you, hold a treat to their nose to get their attention, then say “wait” as you more gradually bring your pace to a halt. » Find It: As you come to a stop bring a treat to the floor by the side of your left shoe. As you do, say “Find it!” As your puppy gets the rhythm of the sequence lesson, you may drop the treat by your foot, so you eliminate the posture of bending down to get their attention.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 168, "chunk_index": 197, "id": "2abb8ca7-1d8c-409e-84bc-94452627d6ee", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Practice Follow-Wait-Find-It outside, first in short practice walks around the yard, and then on short walks, and then progress to longer excursions. If your puppy seems unsure of a sight or distraction, veer away from it rather than soothe your puppy (which would only reinforce their fear), and then play Find It and jolly them along. For more tips on walking, flip to an age-appropriate chapter in Part 3.\n\nNever approach a dog you don’t know. Though the puppy parent may insist that the dog is friendly, you just don’t know how the dog will react to a stranger. If you meet someone who is walking a friendly-looking puppy of a similar age, first ask whether you can approach to say hi. Respect the parent’s decision whatever it is and don’t take offense: The puppy may be sick or the person preoccupied or in a hurry.\n\nTeach walking skills on a 6-foot leash. Avoid using a retractable leash until you and your puppy have the hang of walking together. Never use retractable leashes near roadways or crowds — too dangerous.\n\n» Introducing your puppy to strangers, wild animals, noises, and interesting objects\n\nYour puppy is born to be social — that’s the good news. If introduced to\n\npeople and places during their socialization period, they’ll grow into a dog who can handle just about anything. Even though some of your early excur- sions may be restricted until your puppy is fully inoculated, make every effort to expose your puppy to a variety of situations and people so that they’ll be more comfortable with situations new and unknown throughout their life. You can invite people into your home (asking them to remove their shoes and wash their hands) or take your puppy out in a carrying case or crate to get a handle on all the sights and sounds they’ll experience in their lifetime.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 168, "chunk_index": 198, "id": "7c6ec459-6105-4174-80a7-f7f057525c18", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "The not-so-good news is this: If you miss this early window — this golden oppor- tunity to get your puppy out in the world when they’re young (before four months is ideal) — you could be sentencing your puppy to a lifetime of unknowns if you don’t get a move on quickly. Older puppies who haven’t been socialized to take unfamiliar sounds and people in stride often go into a metaphoric tailspin and become dogs who are wary or defensive of new experiences for the rest of their lives. Being a scaredy-cat is no life for a dog, so devote the time early on (or hire a professional to do it for you) to get your pup acclimated to everything they will encounter throughout their life, from objects and people to noises and other animals.\n\nAll puppies need someone to look up to: Like kids, they’re eaily intimidated when they’re little. Though they idolize their birth mama, that attachment will transfer to you, and just like that, your puppy will be watching your interpretation of new people and experiences for guidance on how to react. This is the ideal bonding experience if you cop a been-there-done-that attitude. Stay calm, be confident (even if you have to pretend), and use lots of rewards to help your puppy see that life is nothing to fret over.\n\nIf your puppy is older than 16 weeks, don’t despair. Even though they have passed their ideal impression window, they’re still open to your example when they get overwhelmed or excited. A noticeably defensive or wary reaction simply indicates that your puppy has no conscious memory of such an occurrence and isn’t sure how to act. In these circumstances, your reactions to both the situation and the puppy are important.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 169, "chunk_index": 199, "id": "a4ee7fec-e5ab-4b06-a8ca-fcdd7b5da59f", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "Wondering how to handle your puppy during this formative time? This chapter is here to help.\n\nMy favorite puppy quote is, to paraphrase Frederick Douglas, “It’s easier to build strong puppies than to repair broken dogs.”\n\nRecognizing the Critical Stages of Your Puppy’s Social Calendar\n\nSocializing your puppy to all of life’s surprises is just as important as training them during the first year. Though they may behave perfectly in your living room, if they fall to pieces when you hit the road, you won’t be able to take them anywhere. And your puppy has so much more in store for them than the usual distractions and people in your backyard. Exposing your puppy to different animals, weather situations, objects, noises, and places will encourage them to accept anything new throughout their life.\n\nPuppies, like children, go through developmental stages, and each stage brings with it a new perspective. In the earliest stages, everything is new, and your pup- py’s trust in you is innocent and faithful. This is the ideal time to get started. As long as you don’t react to a new stimulation, your puppy won’t, either — they’ll get conditioned to new noises, sights, and people, often without pause or hesitation.\n\nAs your puppy grows up, they’ll become less inhibited about how to act and will need persuading to stay focused on you. (Think food and fun here.) Here’s a list of puppyhood developmental stages; socialization ideally starts in the first days and weeks they’re born.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 170, "chunk_index": 200, "id": "18189c50-959a-4eb1-9c37-37207fa85355", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "The first seven weeks of a puppy’s life are tremendously important. Think of it as their earliest impression period. Sure, they’re born blind and deaf (puppies’ eyes and ears open within four weeks of age) and can’t even potty without their moth- er’s stimulation, but at least their body is aware of temperature and motion. Devoted breeders start stimulating their puppies with a gentle touch from day one to prepare their pups for their eventual lives with people.\n\nAfter five weeks of containment, puppies explode into their first socialization period and learn from their mother and littermates what most kids pick up in kindergarten: In doggie terms, they learn about biting gently (what the pros call bite inhibition), respecting authority, and playing with an object to self-soothe. Unless you love a challenge (and I do mean a challenge), only adopt a puppy who has spent seven to eight weeks with their mother and littermates.\n\nSeven to 16 weeks is the period when your puppy’s brain grows, also called the critical socialization period, and for a good reason: Your puppy is creating mental pathways, learning routines, and developing habits that can last a lifetime; this is also the stage when your puppy will encode all the sights and sounds they will experience in their lifetime. That’s good if you expose them to lots of stuff, but not so good if you’re busy or you lose track of these most important weeks for your puppy. I’ll go over just how to socialize your puppy and tweak your response for different reactions (hyper, fearful, or defensive) later in this chapter, but suffice it to say that if you have a puppy, the time to start exposing them to just about everything is now.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 171, "chunk_index": 201, "id": "902e94a8-629f-43c3-88b0-48b4df1e2b83", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Beware of the fear-impression periods, which last about two to three weeks. Dur- ing this time, a puppy becomes easily startled by unfamiliar noises, sights, or overly reactive people. If your puppy has a dramatic reaction (runs back, drops their tail, or freezes), do one of three things:\n\n» Remove or lift your puppy if the situation is truly dangerous (when a dog is\n\n» Calmly allow your puppy to sit under your legs or stand behind you as you or\n\na helper explore the situation with a dose of healthy curiosity.\n\n» Just stay calm (during a thunderstorm, for example).\n\nThe idea here is that you should be the one modeling confidence, so be confident.\n\nThe sixteen weeks to six months stage happens during the body’s rapid growth period. Though your puppy is far less impressionable than when they were younger, you nevertheless still have time to pack in some socialization outings to ensure that they can comfortably contend with all the unknowns of this world. Puppies older than 16 weeks become purposeful and confident and may look at times like they’ve never even heard a human speak, even if training was started early. Adolescents are never pretty, no matter the species. At this stage, they start losing their puppy teeth and begin expanding like they’re on growth hormones — hence the term “growing phase.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 171, "chunk_index": 202, "id": "80e7904e-b3e2-41ab-9c3f-6217e2a11486", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "A puppy who is past the critical socialization window of six months, may have a more pronounced reaction to new situations, especially if they have no similar experience in their memory bank. But all is not lost: Studies show that puppies can learn new things after their prime socialization period, though it takes more exposure and practice. For example, an older puppy who hasn’t navigated a stair- case or hardwood floor may be terrified at the prospect. How you handle such a situation determines their future attitude. Help is just pages away.\n\nAs far as socialization goes, maturity is like a funnel: It’s right side up until about four or months old, at which time it inverts. Though an upside-down funnel can still be conditioned to new experiences, it takes more time and exposure.\n\nPhysical maturity happens at different rates for different dogs. Smaller dogs have it all wrapped up by about a year; larger dogs can take as long as two years. Emo- tional maturity happens around age 3.\n\nNew experiences are always stressful, no matter what the species; I’m sure you can relate. As you socialize your puppy, a good way to tell if a specific social experience (like seeing a vacuum, walking near roadways or meeting the postman for the first time) is overwhelming for your puppy is to notice when they stop engaging with you or taking treats. If they stop either activity for more than three seconds, you’re too close to the distraction: this is what I call being in their red", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 172, "chunk_index": 203, "id": "0b61332c-46fa-499c-b9e8-5f36db238d60", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "zone. When this is the case, double the separation between you and the distraction until you find that sweet spot where your puppy can experience new people or distractions and yet still play or eat: Mark that as a starting point with any new distraction that startles your puppy. Gradually move closer to it until your puppy is fully conditioned to being around it. And how will you know? Your puppy will eat and play with you!\n\nAs you’re socializing to stuff, whether at home (also known as the den) or in the yard (also known as the puppy’s territory) or the world beyond, your puppy may suddenly go from eating or playing with you happily to freezing in fear or alert. This reaction is what I call a first-time fear. It’s normal. Each of these reactions is an opportunity to condition your puppy to the situation, as suggested in the pages ahead.\n\nThough you may have to wait until your puppy is inoculated to go on field trips — flip to Chapter 19 for a typical inoculation schedule — you can still bring the world to your doorstep by asking family and friends to help you condition your puppy to different people and everyday distractions.\n\nEven if your puppy is too young to walk in town, you can carry them with you in a sling or carrying bag. It’s all part of safely socializing them to the hustle and bustle of your block or town. Help your puppy view an outing as a positive event by creating a cozy nest in their carrying case and rewarding them with favorite chews and treats. Excursions should last no more than 10 to 20 minutes, depend- ing on your puppy’s comfort level — and less time if they’re stressed. Then when your veterinarian gives you the green light to socialize on the leash, you’ll be ready to go, go, go!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 173, "chunk_index": 204, "id": "2549a07b-5e5d-4550-a6f0-7e044076856d", "word_count": 318, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 413 } }, { "page_content": "From the moment your puppy comes home, they’ll be socializing to life as you know it. Enlist a helper to do things like open an umbrella, drop a pot, run the mixer or vacuum as you sit on the floor, feeding and playing with your puppy. Most puppies startle to unfamiliar sounds, but if you act like they’re nothing, your puppy will condition to the distraction almost immediately. Keep in mind that, as long as they start to recover within three seconds, you’re fine; if it takes longer than that, repeat the distraction but at twice the distance from you and the pup.\n\nPuppies are as unique as snowflakes and, like children, are born with distinctive personalities. Knowing your puppy’s type helps you to support their reactions so that you can better teach them how to cope with whatever life throws their way.\n\nCan you identify your puppy’s type from the options in the following list? If you’re unsure how to read your puppy’s body cues, flip to Chapter 6 for guidance.\n\n» Active: This interactive, gregarious puppy meets life with unyielding enthusi-\n\nasm. You can bet that this puppy, celebrating every new possibility, will always meet the world head-on.\n\n» Cautious: This puppy hesitates before approaching anything unfamiliar. They may freeze, race behind your legs (or try to climb up them), or try another way to escape the situation.\n\n» Defensive: A defensive pup is wary of new situations and people, staring, analyzing, and often avoiding new people and situations. As they mature, they often vocalize a warning or throaty growl, and may approach (and then quickly back away from) whatever’s triggering the reaction.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 173, "chunk_index": 205, "id": "79980712-114d-4d3b-a48f-384566c0ea44", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "» Calm: This type of pup reacts calmly and is patiently observant and has a\n\nrelaxed body posture and mild-to-friendly curiosity level.\n\nPuppies, like people, show clear signs of stress that are easy to read once you know what to look for: If your puppy stares, vocalizes (barks or growls), lunges, or jumps at the distraction, they’re beyond coping. The pros would say that a puppy doing any of these things was being triggered. Help is just a page or two away.\n\nRegardless of their age, your puppy’s ability to stay calm and remember their man- ners around people will be determined by your responses to their behavior, their experiences, and their breed influences. Even a protective breed can be a model citizen if introduced to lots of people in lots of different places. On the flip side, a cautious puppy, if pressed to cope with unfamiliar situations too quickly, will become reactionary (in fear) and may develop an aggressive streak as they mature.\n\nIs your goal to have a calm, well-mannered dog? If so, remember that the best lessons in life will come from you and are learned at home. When introducing or greeting your puppy, only acknowledge them or let them out of an enclosure if they’re on all four paws and calm enough to stand still or sit for attention. When socializing them to other places, animals, or things, only approach when they have settled down enough to listen to you and are able to model your easygoing, been-there-done-that attitude.\n\nThough I’ll address just how to socialize your puppy in the next section, use the check-off chart in Table 9-1 to course the socialization schedule.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 174, "chunk_index": 206, "id": "4948d9ad-5396-44d3-a754-2c54fc0e7a68", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "One of the all-time great dog training people is Dr. Ian Dunbar. As a veterinarian, he has devoted his life to promoting the value of off-leash puppy classes and per- sonality socialization reform. He suggests that puppies be introduced to 100 new people in the first three months of life, stating that, if you can’t go out, have puppy parties and invite a variety of people.\n\nAs you introduce your puppy to an array of new experiences, each person, place, and thing will have a unique look and smell. At first, your puppy, like most, may hesitate or overreact when experiencing something unpredicted or strange. Like a stressed child, your pup’s unsure how to act and needs your directions so that they don’t mature into a dog that reacts fearfully time and again to specific people, places, or sounds.\n\nBefore you head out with your puppy on a walk arround the neighborhood, prac- tice the words in the list below in a quiet area of your home before using them\n\n» Find It: Toss treats on the floor at your feet and play the Find It game detailed in Chapter 20. Your puppy will learn this game fast. When socializing your puppy to new things, use savory treats to entice their interest.\n\n» Say Hello: This cue will calm all greeting interactions. Because puppies view face-to-face greetings as invitations to play rough or act just plain confronta- tional, teach your puppy a new greeting style called the welcoming curve. As you say the cue word hello, lure your puppy to stand sideways instead of straight into you. Now pet them shoulder to tail instead on top of their head. Use “Say hello” as you greet admirers and see how your puppy adjusts their posture (instead of jumping) to ease the moment.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 175, "chunk_index": 207, "id": "39d86a01-9025-4dac-80f3-45d42114886c", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "» Under: Puppies like to crawl under things: It helps them feel secure. Direct your puppy under your legs as you sit on a couch or chair. If you can’t find anything to sit on, crouch down and let your puppy curve in the crook of your legs.\n\n» Back: When something or someone startles your puppy, they will often run behind you. Let them. Rather than console them, courageously face the distraction; reward your puppy for following your lead. If your puppy freezes or reacts instead of turning to you for assurance, teach “back” at home. Lure your puppy behind your body as you say “back,” rewarding them the moment they sit comfortably behind your heel.\n\nDo not force a cautious puppy to face their fear by lifting or pushing them toward something they have moved away from. Explore or greet the person yourself, and then reward your puppy for coming forward on their own. » Follow-Wait-Find It: These walking words teach your puppy to focus on you in unfamiliar places. Teach this medley in a quiet room at home, reviewing the lesson in Chapter 11 before practicing on a leash. “Follow” instructs your puppy to walk with you, “wait” to stop, and “find it” to come back to your side to discover a treat placed carefully by your left foot. More on this move in Chapter 11! » To Your Place: Bring a mat or blanket from home when socializing your puppy to new places. As detailed in Chapter 5, all puppies identify with calming stations — take your pup’s mat to help them feel secure no matter where you go.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 176, "chunk_index": 208, "id": "80da3fca-b5f9-4c0c-b855-d295afc4d14b", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "As you’re exposing your puppy to new situations and surroundings, take note of their body posture. (See Chapter 6.) If they’re reacting with extreme fear, excite- ment, or aggression, you’re too close to the distraction. Increase the distance until your puppy can relax. Slowly move closer as you condition them to focus on you no matter what’s going on.\n\nMany of the useful techniques described in this book, such as teaching your dog to lay under a table or your legs, as well as all the sequence lessons, are shown on my website, www.sarahsayspets.com,. Check it out.\n\nRemembering the three T’s: Tips, tools, and techniques\n\nMost young puppies under 12 weeks old will look to your reaction in all-new situ- ations. If you’re nervous, they’ll pick up on that. If you get excited, uncomforta- ble, or edgy, they’ll likely follow suit. Expose your puppy to new experiences under controlled circumstances so that you’ll be centered and prepared to set the right example and deal with your puppy’s reaction. Here’s a list of tools, tips, and tech- niques to help you with all your socializing adventures:\n\n» Treat cups: Condition your puppy to the sound of a treat cup. Purchase or create a treat cup as described in Chapter 5, and then shake it and reward them until they make a connection between the sound and the snack. Play games with the treat cup, including the run-run-stop game described in Chapter 7, and the sit-to-say-please game, where you teach your puppy to sit before offering a reward. once they learn to sit hearing the cup shake, offer the cup to visitors and admirers.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 176, "chunk_index": 209, "id": "fb9d8a3f-0c94-44ff-a9b7-ee85371c0398", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "» Compassion wear: When socializing with your puppy, avoid restraining\n\nneckwear and back-clip harnesses that may stress them by making them feel trapped. Though you definitely need to leash your puppy near traffic and populated areas, if your puppy is a puller (and most are), consider a head collar or front-clip harness (also known as compassion wear and detailed in Chapter 5). Both eliminate your puppy’s ability to pull against the leash as you guide them through unfamiliar situations.\n\n» Leash: Condition your puppy to a light leash or freedom line, and keep these items on them when they’re meeting new people. Leash control should feel similar to holding a child’s hand rather than holding on for dear life. if it doesn’t feel that way, follow the steps in Chapter 10 or consider finding a professional to give you some tips.\n\n» Toy basket: Place toy baskets filled with three to five toys and bones near\n\ndoors, enclosures, and played areas. Tell your puppy to “get your toy” as you walk to the basket and play with them. Now include the toys in your greeting ritual and ask anyone coming through the door to do the same. It’s best to start with family and work your way up to delivery people or strangers. » Comfort station: Create a comfort station in each room where you spend time or entertain others with comfortable bedding and chews. Whenever possible, bring the bedding with you when socializing, traveling, or taking your puppy to the doctor. It’s their security blanket.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 177, "chunk_index": 210, "id": "8a1434ff-0d28-42fc-a1df-17e5baddfe0b", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "» Targeting signal: Teach your puppy a targeting cue as described in Chapter 5, using either your hand or, if your puppy is cautious, an extendable target like a soup spoon or store-bought targeting bop. When you teach it as a fun game, you can use the target to direct your puppy to new objects or unfamiliar people. » Target disc: These discs, as described in Chapter 5, can also be used to settle your puppy when you’re away from home. By teaching your puppy to stand in a specific location on a specific disc their focus will shift from the environment to concentrating on the task at hand!\n\nSocializing Your Puppy, No Matter Their Age or Experiences\n\nYes, it’s easier to socialize a young puppy when they’re still unfamiliar with life and will naturally look to you for a clue on how to act. This can be a tremendously fun, adventurous, and explosive learning stage for both you and your puppy.\n\nDoes this mean you should just throw in the towel if you’ve adopted an older puppy or are reading this book after missing this window? Heavens, no. You’ll still have a lot of influence over your puppy’s interpretation of the situation, though less than if they were just a baby. For example, an older puppy who hasn’t navigated a staircase or hardwood floor may be terrified at the prospect. How you handle such a situation determines their future attitude. If a situation is avoided (rather than dealt with as I suggest), a puppy will mature into a dog who is permanently leery of stairs or whatever the phobia is throughout their lives. You don’t want that.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 178, "chunk_index": 211, "id": "ad1a49e9-b953-4c1d-a3b1-a057bbfafc78", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "No matter their age, take notice of your puppy’s reaction to new experiences: Watch their ears, eyes, tail, and posture and note their reaction. Using the descrip- tions found in Chapter 6, see if you can determine whether your puppy is excita- ble, cautious, or defensive. The next few sections spell out how you should deal with each puppy type.\n\nExcitable puppies have little fear and want to explore everything and meet every- one. Your goal is to successfully help them learn to redirect their excitement. Here are three techniques to deal with their enthusiasm:\n\n» Redirect their attention. Try using a toy, a special savory chew, or a\n\nFIGURE 9-1: Gently brace your puppy if they’re jumpy when greeting people.\n\n» Limit their upward mobility. Without applying any pressure, place your\n\nthumb under their chin and gently loop it over their collar with your fingers pointing straight down between their front legs; what I call the thumb brace. (See Figure 9-1.) Scratch their chest, and reward and pet them for staying on all four paws.\n\n» Help them adopt an alternative greeting style: They might grab a toy and dash around like mad or flip over on their back for a belly rub, also known as “belly up!”\n\nAll puppies repeat behavior that wins them attention — they don’t care whether the interaction is negative or positive. As even a glance or light touch may be all that’s needed to guarantee a repeat performance, avoid pushing or verbal admon- ishments. Give your reactionary puppy an example of calm in every situation — your future depends on it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 178, "chunk_index": 212, "id": "16b3d900-478c-48d3-8bf3-48c842bdf395", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "A fearful puppy needs a guardian and protector to step up and direct them: Here’s your curtain call. Avoid the temptation to bend and soothe your puppy, because they may consider your reaction as modeling their behavior. Instead, adopt a been-there-done-that attitude, acting courageous and calm. Approach whatever distraction has rattled your puppy and — when possible — pretend to sniff it curiously. As your puppy overcomes their initial reaction, use treats to reward their baby steps. Continue to expose them to whatever the new distraction is for three to five minutes each day until they absorb the distraction as blasé.\n\nCommit now to socializing the paws off a fearful-type puppy. However, remember that it may take many outings to mellow their caution to the point that they’ll become more pleasant to have around.\n\nDon’t lift your puppy or coddle them if they have a fearful reaction. Your lowered body posture and high-pitched tone convey the message that you’re afraid, too. Let your puppy move out of the situation that’s overwhelming them, and then kneel and pet them with full strokes. Breathe deeply and stay calm: Your compo- sure will be reassuring.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 179, "chunk_index": 213, "id": "f9f8a885-85aa-4177-9f97-8cd6b102b2f0", "word_count": 192, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 249 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy’s first thunderstorm or fireworks celebration may be a memorable event. The best thing you can do is act like it’s nothing — petting or soothing when your puppy is in a state of panic may model their fear, creating a panic reaction instead of what may initially have been just a normal caution response. Rather than model fear by crouching low, talking in a voice that sounds more like whining than confident reassurance, and staring at them in intense concern (your puppy may startle to being stared at this time), stay calm, use familiar directions, and keep your puppy with you. Here’s a helpful list of things to do when your puppy is unsettled by life’s unavoidable events:\n\nUse a leash in tandem with compassion wear. If your puppy has already devel- oped a fearful reaction to storms, use a leash affixed to your choice of compassion wear (see Chapter 5) to guide them through each episode rather than let them hide or run about in a state of panic.\n\nSet a good example. Put on soothing music and stay calm as you read or relax as if nothing is happening. If your puppy will eat, chew, or play with you, that’s a good sign: Offer them the opportunity. By staying calm and just reading a book or doing another low-key activity, you’re setting an example of how to act in a storm.\n\nUse a sound recording. If a specific sound is unsettling to your puppy, record it or see whether you can find a sound machine that has the sound prerecorded. Play it at gradually increasing volumes while your puppy is playing or eating. If they are still startled by the noise, lower the volume and play it in a distant room. If your puppy’s reactions don’t improve, speak to your veterinarian about medication.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 180, "chunk_index": 214, "id": "8ed54157-af2d-40fb-ae92-e40cf7da5649", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Any attention given to a puppy reinforces their reaction, which is fine if and only if your puppy is calm. Other responses need redirection. Read on to find out how.\n\nA defensive puppy takes life a little too seriously. Socializing them is necessary to calm their intensity. Teach your puppy the terms Back and Under, as encouraged earlier in this chapter, to mean “stay behind me” and “follow my example.” Look to the coming age-appropriate training chapters to work on Find It and other treat-cup games, as well as the directions To Your Place, Bone, Stay, and Follow. Over time, your pup’s resolve will melt.\n\nIf your puppy displays an early defensive reaction (before they’re 14 weeks old), take it seriously. If the tips in this book don’t lessen your puppy’s intensity, hire a professional. The onset of adolescence, with the release of adult hormones, will intensify any aggression that’s at the root of their defensive reactions, so you need to deal with this behavior immediately.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 180, "chunk_index": 215, "id": "e863f46a-3fd6-4a77-8615-c3239df70cf6", "word_count": 166, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 215 } }, { "page_content": "Change is a part of life. Even though many changes are for the best, all changes are stressful — and not just for humans. Puppies experience stress, too. The dif- ference between their tension and ours is how they display it. Sure, I may pack on some extra pounds when I’m feeling anxious, but I don’t destroy the couch; your puppy may, though. And if you discipline an anxious pup, they’ll become more stressed and destroy other items — perhaps your rug or the bed. Is this a sign of spite? No, never: puppies live in the moment and in moment’s like these your puppy is just confused and worried, and they need your help to adjust. Other signs of stress are aggression, barking, hyperactivity, and extreme withdrawal. In this section, I advise you on how to ease your puppy’s stress when facing a move, when your household is coping with a death, or when adding a new family mem- ber to the home.\n\nMoving is one of life’s most stressful changes. First, the financial decisions may bring about more theatrical conversations than you have on an average day. Then you have the packing, shipping, and traveling back and forth. When the big day finally arrives, you’ve reached a new peak of exhaustion. If you have to move, my heart aches for you, but it bleeds for your developing puppy. Chaos often sends their routine into a tailspin. During this change, you may notice your puppy resorting to early puppy behavior: They may become hyper, demand attention, nip, jump, or chew. Forgive them and vow to help them cope.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 181, "chunk_index": 216, "id": "26af41ef-e2b1-44cd-9837-cbb845ecb883", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "Try to include your puppy in your preparations, giving them bones to chew while you’re busy boxing up your life. If you’re traveling to your new home, bring famil- iar objects such as dog beds, bones, and toys to make them feel connected to your new home before you move in. Also, use familiar words, schedules, and routines from day one. If you keep your day-to-day habits the same, your puppy will adapt in no time.\n\nThe first time you leave your puppy in your new home, they may stress out, resulting in destructive chewing or excessive barking. Confine your puppy in a small room or familiar pen or crate with your old shirts and a favorite chew toy; dim the lights and leave on comforting, familiar music. Don’t discipline your puppy if they demolish something. Your corrections only increase anxiety. If you return home to scenes of destruction, ignore them and clean up the area later when your puppy is occupied.\n\nDon’t let your puppy off-leash in your new yard unless it’s fenced in; they’ll be disoriented for a few weeks and may get lost if they wander off. Instead, let them explore their new surroundings on a reactable leash or freedom line, provided you’re a safe distance from all roadways. As your puppy appears more comfortable in their new surroundings, introduce fun games as outlined in Chapter 20.\n\nREMEMBERING YOUR PUPPY’S NEEDS DURING LIFE CHANGES\n\nWhether family or friends call on you unexpectedly or your life takes an unexpected turn, your daily demands as a puppy parent will continue. Here are some tips that can help you and your pup through this confusing time:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 182, "chunk_index": 217, "id": "00314276-b074-40ba-8787-2331625a3daf", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "Buy new chew toys. Buy lots of them — chewing is a self-soothing exercise for your puppy.\n\nEnlist the help of friends or neighbors. Have volunteers come and walk the puppy in the morning and afternoon when you’re unable to do so.\n\nSet an alarm. Set an alarm on your phone to alert you at mealtimes so that you don’t forget.\n\nSet aside some daily bonding time. Take a break five to ten minutes a couple of times per day for bonding, some playful training, a hike, or even just a snuggle. Keep saying the words your puppy may already know, like sit, stay, and come so that they don’t get rusty.\n\nWhether you’re giving birth or adopting a child, your puppy will notice the shifting dynamic when someone new comes to live with them. All family additions gener- ally add up to less attention for a puppy. With some forethought and cooperation, you can reverse the inevitable and show your puppy that this new addition is a plus for everyone.\n\nA new baby in the house can be one of the coolest changes of a lifetime — for people, that is. Puppies, on the other hand, can get the short end of the stick. Less attention, weird smells, and less exercise often result in puppies acting out from restlessness or a lack of structure. To ensure that your 4-legged pal doesn’t feel left out, start planning for the new arrival.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 182, "chunk_index": 218, "id": "ca86a4cf-3ea0-470d-8383-ea5f6de290e8", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "Imagine the baby has moved in. They’re a cute little creature who’s just weeks old. Your parenting instincts are in full throttle. Now enters your beloved puppy. Are they used to lounging on the furniture or jumping up for attention? Do they order you to give them a back rub by pawing, barking, or nudging you? Can you see the problem that’s developing there? They won’t stop this behavior just because you’re holding a newborn. If you shout at them or isolate them suddenly, they may grow leery and jealous of your new fancy. Fortunately, you can take a few steps ahead of time to ensure that nobody gets left in the doghouse:\n\n» As early as possible, socialize your puppy with small children. Use treat\n\ncups as described in Chapter 5 to help your puppy associate kids with fun and food. Toss treats down, saying “Find it” as you cast them to the floor; this helps to ensure that your puppy stays focused on your hands and looks down instead of up when kids are around. Stay calm while the kiddies visit, but keep your dog on a leash if you’re uneasy. Dogs are telepathic, so any nervous emotions come across loud and clear.\n\n» Take your puppy to a playground. Keep your puppy on a 6-foot lead and", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 183, "chunk_index": 219, "id": "6a07a2f6-8d96-4ec0-b594-d4517e8e0c70", "word_count": 220, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 286 } }, { "page_content": "play Find It games as you socialize them to the sound and activity of children. If your puppy is relaxed and calm when admirers approach you, offer them an open treat container and ask them to toss the treat down as though they were feeding chickens. If you’re puppy jumps uncontrollably, try using the thumb brace technique mentioned early in the chapter or flip to Chapter 15 for other tips on settling down an excited puppy or building confidence in a fearful one to ensure that your puppy doesn’t stare at or jump on anyone. Retreat if your pup is cautious or defensive. (See Chapter 6 for descriptions and illustrations of the kinds of body language you should look out for when it comes to fearful or defensive pups.)\n\nIf your puppy shows any signs of aggression, call a professional. Your reaction can make the problem worse. Petting or soothing reinforces the behavior, and disciplining make your puppy feel more threatened.\n\n» Walk through your daily routine with a smelly stuffed doll. If you know\n\nsomeone with a baby, ask to borrow a blanket to accustom your puppy to the smell. Wrap a baby doll in the blanket, allowing your puppy to sniff its feet as you say gentle. When changing your baby (both the doll and the real thing), practice the directions Wait, Go to Your Place, and Stay. See Chapter 11 for more on teaching your puppy these words.\n\n» Set new-furniture rules. I think it best not to keep your puppy on the\n\nfurniture around a new baby, but if you wait to spring this rule on your pup after the baby’s home, the puppy may feel confused or anxious. Keep a short freedom line on your puppy, and if they hop on the furniture, gently guide them off, reminding them to Go to Your Place. Remember that shouting or shoving them off is interactive and suggestive of a game.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 183, "chunk_index": 220, "id": "50b80b0e-fc50-4eef-acee-59e102848481", "word_count": 323, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 419 } }, { "page_content": "» Help your puppy get used to all the new equipment. With baby comes a lot of new stuff — big stuff like strollers and rockers and loungers as well as little enticing chewables, like pacifiers and rattles. Bring all these items in well before your baby arrives; then use Find It to positively familiarize your puppy with each one, and Leave It (as taught in Chapter 11) to distinguish between what belongs to your puppy and what doesn’t.\n\n» Establish an exercise schedule for your puppy. Make one that is realistic with your new responsibilities. Mornings may be rough, so help your puppy look forward to afternoon romps instead.\n\n» Establish a comfort station (see Chapter 5). Place it in or just outside your\n\nbaby’s room and get your pup accustomed to settling there. Teach them Go to Your Place as described in Chapter 11; if they’re properly leash trained, you can secure them on a 3-foot tether with a chewing toy if they seem restless. » Watch your words. If the phrases you use for baby and dog are too similar, your pup may get hyped up at the wrong time or be utterly confused. (\"Why are you looking at the newbie instead of me!\") Change phrases like “What a good girl!” to “What a great puppy!”\n\n» Help your puppy get used to being ignored sometimes. Yes, I want you to ignore your puppy completely. You can break it up into two 30-minute or three 20-minute segments, but get your puppy accustomed to life without your doting. If your puppy can get your attention wherever and whenever he wants it, he’ll be upset when you’re focused on the baby.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 184, "chunk_index": 221, "id": "ca56a9f9-a64a-4328-a42a-47274a94085c", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "» Ease off confrontational games. No more tug-of-war or wrestling, and\n\neliminate all in-home chasing matches. Play games outside and teach your puppy calm household manners. If he’s a tugaholic, practice the release Give, covered in Chapter 11.\n\n» Consider how your child’s future toys may compare to your puppy’s\n\nfavorites. Reconsider your puppy’s toys, if necessary, way in advance as you teach your puppy the phrase Go get Your Toy. Keep these objects in an accessible basket or on your puppy’s bed. Discourage chewing.\n\n» Condition them to erratic handling, such as touching, poking, and\n\nhair-pulling. Babies and small children like to grab and pull, and your puppy may be startled if the baby’s tug is the first one they experience. Feed them a savory or lickable treat as you gently condition them to your mimicking of a baby’s touch. Say gentle as you do this, and repeat this phrase when it happens in real time. Don’t forget to make some baby sounds, too, for the full effect.\n\nThe day will come. Your baby will arrive, and your life will never be the same. To help your puppy adjust, follow these suggestions:\n\n» Ask the nurse if you can bring home an infant blanket from the nursery. It may seem like a strange request, but I’m sure yours won’t be the first. Ask your partner to let your puppy sniff these items, placing them in normal spots like the nursery and kitchen so that your puppy conditions to the new smell. » Brush up on obedience lessons while mom’s in the hospital. Puppies love structure and the attention showered on them during training sessions. The brush-up will be a good base for the weeks ahead, when life gets more unpredictable and stressful.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 184, "chunk_index": 222, "id": "d08d56f9-d3ca-4ead-9909-de3ab62aded2", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "» Hire a dog walker if the house is empty. Isolation is stressful for puppies. » Plan baby’s homecoming. Keep your puppy on-leash and let them welcome\n\n» Harness wild puppy energy: If your puppy’s too boisterous, offer them a special savory chew or busy toy, as described in Chapter 5, and gradually reintroduce them back into the circle around baby. Spread some butter on a serving spoon and use it to lure your puppy some distance away until they have calmed.\n\nThe butter trick also works as you establish a bond between your baby and your puppy when the puppy settles down. Dab some butter on your baby’s foot or booty and say kisses. (See Figure 9-2.)\n\nIf your dog growls at the baby, call in a professional to assess the situation.\n\nFIGURE 9-2: Teach your puppy to focus on your baby’s feet, not face, by dabbing butter on their feet or booties.\n\nPeople love to travel. We love to see new sites, taste new foods, and meet interest- ing people. We pore over travel sites and pick places we know we’ll enjoy. We pull out our calendars and create itineraries: Leave on Friday, home on Tuesday. For the most part, we know what’s coming and where we’re going.\n\nYour puppy? Not so much. Depending on your dog’s level of socialization, breed, and temperament, travel can be quite stressful. Car rides are fun for many dogs, but a 10-hour marathon drive may test their mettle. And if you think airplane seats are uncomfortable, try flying in the cargo hold.\n\nConsider your destination. Will your hosts welcome your dog? Yes, they said “bring everybody,” but confirm in advance that this means your dog. Not everyone puts dogs in the same category as kids.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 185, "chunk_index": 223, "id": "8b9d12e9-2454-46d4-9e5c-3ada0dfcd5af", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Know your dog. Are they adventurous or more of a homebody? Are they easily dis- tracted by a favorite toy, or do new scents and sounds send them into a frenzy? Do they walk companionably on a leash, or do they need a little work in that department?\n\nIf you’ve confirmed the dog-friendliness of your destination and your dog is socialized and ready for a trip, pack carefully to ensure a comfortable journey. Bring as many homey things as you can — beds, crates, toys, bowls, and leashes. Pack a list of your dog’s familiar words and routines. Dogs are much happier when surrounded by things they recognize. If your hosts have dogs, introduce them to yours in a neutral location (preferably outdoors to avoid territorial disputes). Let\n\nboth dogs drag long leashes to allow natural interaction while maintaining your ability to intervene if needed.\n\nIf your dog stays behind, try not to feel guilty. He will be content with a stable routine and delighted when you get home. Keep in mind that the aggravations of travel that frustrate humans may overwhelm your dog and create a situation that makes you wish you had all stayed home.\n\nI’m leery of planes, so you can imagine how neurotic I get thinking of a dog in the belly of one of those steel babies. I’d avoid taking any pet on a plane if I didn’t have to. Sometimes air travel is unavoidable, however, so follow these tips to make flying easier on everyone:\n\n» Condition your puppy to the air travel carrier or kennel long in advance. Check out the section on crate training in Chapter 7 and follow those instruc- tions as many weeks in advance as you’re able to plan it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 186, "chunk_index": 224, "id": "a13c0bf3-1368-48ba-9e99-b6407a717d88", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "» When possible, plan direct flights in the evening or early morning. Ground temperatures are cooler then. (Heat-induced suffocation is the biggest risk in airline travel.)\n\n» Make your puppy’s reservation when you make your own. Planes accept\n\nIf you can’t fly direct, book a flight with a layover that’s long enough for you to reunite with your puppy. Take them out for a stretch, drink, potty break, and hug.\n\n» Obtain health certificates and proof of vaccination. Airlines require them for all dogs, so you need to get them from your veterinarian and forward a copy to the airline immediately. Carry one with you on the day of the flight, too, in case any questions arise about your dog’s clearance to travel. » Write the flight info on top of the traveling crate. Using 1/2-inch letters,\n\nwrite the flight’s destination, including your name and the name, address, and phone number of the person or place you’re visiting.\n\n» Avoid feeding your puppy within six hours of the trip so that he’s pooped\n\n» Prepare the crate for takeoff. Add light bedding and paper (taped down) in one end to absorb mistakes. Affix kennel bowls inside the crate. Freeze water in one so that your puppy can have a drink while in flight.\n\n» If your puppy is a champion chewer, evaluate whether to nix the bedding. Some puppies are so stressed by air travel that they’d chew the shirt off your back if you were sitting next to them. If you suspect that your puppy will be distressed, ask your veterinarian for a sedative.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 187, "chunk_index": 225, "id": "99f87e0c-a19e-4775-a84d-62895ecb63e2", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "I’ve never owned a puppy or dog who didn’t love a road trip. I know some dogs have less-than-enjoyable experiences, but even they can be transformed with some patient car conditioning.\n\nPuppies do best with structure in the car. Always take them to the same passenger door or hatch, saying the phrase to the car as you go and while directing them into a crate or cozy nest decorated with bedding and bones. If the routines are not organized, your puppy may feel restless and ill-at-ease, which can lead to a cas- cade of problems, the least of which is pacing, whining and barking at everything that moves.\n\nFor any road trip, make sure your puppy is secured in some fashion. Here are a few options:\n\n» Put your pup in a crate during road trips. Buy a strong, wire-mesh type (for good air circulation) that is sized for your puppy’s weight and breed. Line the bottom with a mat, cloth, or similar bedding to provide a surface that they can sink their paws into while you’re driving.\n\n» Secure your puppy with a seat belt. Give your puppy their area in the back seat for short jaunts. Secure a doggie-style attachment to the seat belt and decorate the area with a mat and toys to keep them comfortable and occupied during the drive.\n\n» Erect a sturdy barrier. Barriers enclose your puppy in the back compartment\n\nThe Center for Pet Safety rates different items, such as toys, bones, and car safety harnesses. Check out the site before you buy any of these items: www.centerforpetsafety.org.\n\nCars can be a dangerous place for dogs, so you must take certain precautions:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 188, "chunk_index": 226, "id": "b94bd3a2-568d-47dd-b133-5fb2b07eb2f1", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "» Never leave your puppy in the car on a warm day. Even with the windows\n\ndown, your car will bake like an oven, leaving your puppy uncomfortable — or dead. Nothing is worth that.\n\n» Keep an extra set of keys on hand. If you must leave your puppy, keep the engine running with the air conditioning on full blast and lock the doors. Keep the second set of keys with you so that you can get back into the car. » Think careful, not cool. While driving, keep windows cracked but not wide\n\nopen. Some people think that letting a dog hang their head out the window is cool, but it’s dangerous. Dogs can get hurled from the car in an accident or have debris fly into their eyes, causing permanent damage.\n\nAre you planning a long journey? The following guidelines can help ensure that both you and your puppy get through the trip with minimal hassle:\n\n» Keep your pup’s diet and feeding times consistent. A change can upset\n\ntheir system, and that’s one discomfort you can easily avoid.\n\n» Avoid traveling in extreme heat unless you have a good air-conditioning system. If you’re in extreme heat, plan to travel at night or early in the morning.\n\n» Keep your puppy on a leash at every pit stop. When traveling, a puppy’s\n\nhoming device shuts down. If he wanders off or gets momentarily distracted, he may have trouble finding their way back to you. Traffic is also a danger, so be safe, not sorry.\n\nDiscovering how short lessons can lead to a bigger\n\nLearning to approach training like teaching a foreigner\n\nLearning how to teach your puppy off-lead control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 189, "chunk_index": 227, "id": "f2420327-386e-46c3-bdd6-896b695742aa", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Many people picture bringing a puppy home during the “adorable” stage,\n\nbetween 8 and 14 weeks, and professionals do claim that it’s the best age to bond with a puppy. Though I agree that it’s an impressionable time, the truth is that you can bond with a puppy (or a dog, for that matter) at any age. It’s fun to watch a puppy morph through each developmental stage, but puppies are a lot of work, too; this chapter helps you get a focus on just what’s in store.\n\nSome breeders offer their puppy buyers what’s known as imprinting foster care after a puppy separates from their litter at seven or eight weeks old. This service involves paying someone else to house-train, socialize, and teach your puppy for weeks to months, depending on the arrangement. I’ve seen this work well for some of my clients and not so well for others: Much depends on who’s doing the foster care. The choice is up to you.\n\nBefore giving birth to my first child, I anticipated snuggly cuddles and long, lin- gering morning gazes — the two of us blissfully smothered in mutual adoration. Little did I know. The first months were in fact a blur of late-night crying jags, poopy diapers, and wishing that someone had prepared me for the labor involved in parenting. If you’re a new puppy owner or you’re preparing to bring home a puppy, let me help you out: At the stage between 8 and 14 weeks, your puppy is all about getting familiar with their surroundings and routines. Don’t expect too much from them. Even though a puppy at this age is capable of learning, their brain won’t finish developing until they’re 14 weeks old.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 193, "chunk_index": 228, "id": "f527a9c8-16b3-4efb-a6c2-041b20fe9c7f", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "So, what can you really expect? First and foremost, puppies at this stage need tons of sleep: between 16 and 18 hours of quiet time. If you’re tempted to overstimulate your young puppy, don’t do it. Your puppy will end up acting like a colicky baby who is chronically sleep deprived. How can you tell? Puppies who need sleep act fidgety, pushy, and mouthy. Unless they get the right kind of sleep, overtired pup- pies develop into restless dogs — and you don’t want that.\n\nNor do you want to start off on the wrong foot when it comes to socializing your puppy. The most important lessons at this stage involve associating words with specific routines. Luckily for you, these lessons aren’t hard to teach. If you stay consistent, the associations should develop naturally as you tend to your puppy’s everyday needs. I outline just how to tackle this task in the following sections, so put the high-intensity exercise and training lessons on the back burner for now. If you’re disappointed that your puppy won’t be running that fancy doggy parkour obstacle course just yet, try not to be — there’s still a lot of fun to be had at this stage.\n\nAll puppies are programmed to look to their family’s body language and postures for clues on how to act, as I discuss in Chapter 6. Your first goal is to teach your puppy to listen for direction by outlining lessons similar to teaching a foreigner a new language. Using a say-n-show format, you’ll say words that tie into where you’re going or what your puppy is doing. When you pair words with action, your puppy will learn to listen for direction in no time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 194, "chunk_index": 229, "id": "1d18420e-5c88-443d-a1c3-2307c889d1cf", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Like a human baby, your puppy is paying attention to you all the time, absorbing everything going on around them at a rate never to be equaled again in their life- time. Young and impressionable, they look to others to learn how to handle new\n\nsituations. But they can’t understand what you’re teaching them until they learn to identify the meaning of certain words. After all, training isn’t an exercise in domination or control; it’s teaching English to your puppy so that you share a common language.\n\nTaking care of your puppy at this stage can be a little repetitive: it’s a continuous string of sleep-potty-eat-drink-potty-play-potty-sleep-potty — and then rinse and repeat. Bonding during this stage occurs as you calmly and routinely take care of these basic needs: Yes, those needs in fact involve eating, drinking, pottying, sleeping, and playing. Help your puppy learn their first words by teaching them where to go and what to do when all their needs are pressing. Your puppy desper- ately wants to know, “Where do I go when I am thirsty, hungry, or tired or need to potty?”\n\nYour puppy at this stage needs lots of potty breaks because their bladder muscles don’t fully develop until four to five months of age. For more on house-training your puppy, flip to Chapter 14.\n\nWith consistent routines, schedules, and word cues, your puppy will start indicat- ing their needs by initiating the routines you’ve shown them! (For printable puppy schedules, visit my website at SarahSaysPets.com.\n\nIn Table 10-1, I list five important routines your puppy should know at this stage, pairing each one with a word cue to help them link each routine with a specific action.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 194, "chunk_index": 230, "id": "e1bc5eb5-96c5-4854-b85e-1392609c5c61", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Designate a footpath to your puppy’s bathroom area. Guide them to this area as you repeat a direction like Outside or Papers. Say Get busy as they potty.\n\nSay this direction as you calmly lead your puppy into their crate or quiet room to rest. If they hesitate, guide them with food lures or favorite toys. Settle them in with a busy toy or chew to help them self-soothe. Avoid dragging them, pleading, feeling guilty, or getting cross.\n\nEach time you feed your puppy — whether by hand, bowl, or feeding toy — identify the activity with a word and routinely go to the same area to get their food. If they jump or bark, stop and walk away. Only feed a calm puppy.\n\nKeep your puppy’s water dish in the same area. Have them hold still before lowering the bowl.\n\nHelp your puppy identify their belongings by keeping their toys and bones in one area. Identify each object as you play with it.\n\nYour puppy will learn more quickly if training is incorporated into everyday habits and playtime. Use their name and directions like Sit and Find it as you share treats and food and play with toys. Your number-one routine will be to teach them where to go to the bathroom, as I discuss in Chapter 14.\n\nForget discipline at this stage because your pup is just too young to understand it. You succeed only in frightening them and eroding your relationship — and that’s not good.\n\nThis game is easy and fun and you’ll use it forever. Take a few kibbles, as outlined in Chapter 20, and drop them at your feet (gently at first), saying Find it. It’s that simple. How many repetitions does it take to teach your puppy this cue? With each Find It treat-drop, they’re one step closer to learning this all-important word game.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 195, "chunk_index": 231, "id": "c3373f58-e87d-48ba-9348-98dfcb86c9be", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "I talk about Find It a lot in this book, but that’s because it has tons of important uses, from calling your puppy to your side or teaching them to play with the chil- dren without jumping or nipping to conditioning them to look down when cars, cats, cyclists, and critters pass. You can also use Find It to keep greetings with strangers on an even keel and teach cooperative leash walking skills.\n\nUse Find It when feeding your puppy. Toss one kibble at a time (a great game for children) as you encourage the 4-paw rule as detailed later, in the section “Help- ing your puppy learn the 4-paw rule,” or toss a few handfuls down for meal- time fun.\n\nTreat cups (see Chapter 5) help your puppy learn their name quickly. If your puppy has yet to associate the sound of the cup shaking with receiving a food treat, prac- tice shaking and rewarding until they do. Now make multiple cups and spread them around for easy access. When you’re ready to have your puppy learn their name, follow this 3-step process:\n\n1. Shake the cup and say the puppy’s name simultaneously. 2. Repeat until you get a quick response each time you call.\n\nUse this trick everywhere you spend time so your puppy will alert each time you call out.\n\n3. Call out their name first, immediately followed by a shake of the cup.\n\nOnce your puppy is alerting to their name and no cup is immediately neces- sary, begin Step 3.\n\n4. Call out the puppy’s name and progressively extend the time you shake the cup.\n\nGo from 1 second later to 2, 3, and 4 seconds later until you see that your puppy has learned their name. Gradually phase out shaking the cup, but continue rewarding your puppy with play, praise, and other rewards, like letting them play.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 196, "chunk_index": 232, "id": "cf63dd85-e1f5-4b22-9957-eec01edad944", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "Pick a short name or nickname and say it anytime you’re offering your puppy positive rewards, like treats, toys, or attention.\n\nTeaching your puppy to sit is like teaching a child to say please. You can’t teach your puppy to literally say please, but you can get them to use a gesture to say that they want something. If you consistently direct your puppy to sit before offering them anything they perceive as positive, they’ll sit when they want something just as readily as most dogs jump. Here are some situations where you want your puppy to say please:\n\n» When receiving meals, treats, or water » Before a ball toss or toy offering » Before doors open to let them in or out » Whenever they want an item on the counter or tabletop » Before car entrances and exits » During all greetings » During introductions to children and older people\n\nMake sure your puppy doesn’t generalize a learned routine, like Sit, to one spot, such as their place or your kitchen. Practice new routines in a variety of different places and around various people and situations.\n\nTeach your puppy that the word Come means you’re together, not apart. Eventu- ally, it will bring your puppy running from afar, but initially Come should reflect\n\ntouch, reassurance, and rewards, not separation and frustration. Here’s how to do it:\n\n1. Hold a treat in one hand. Hold the other hand open, palm out, 2 to 3 inches from your puppy’s nose. The instant your puppy touches their nose to your palm, say Come and drop the reward from the other hand, saying Find it! Your puppy will quickly associate touching your palm with both the word Come and the reward.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 197, "chunk_index": 233, "id": "c4549dd5-b983-4e9d-87e2-ba1d8f1be3b8", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "2. Continue the hand gesture and saying Come in different areas around your home and outdoors so that your puppy learns to respond to both your signal and the word.\n\n3. Practice flashing your hand without saying the word come, rewarding your puppy for touching your hand by saying Find it and dropping a treat on the ground at your feet.\n\n4. Practice saying come as you step back three steps, using rewards to lure your puppy to follow you. Increase the distance, as you step back two steps at a time, from 3-to-5-to-7 and so on. Flash your palm and reward your puppy the moment they nose you.\n\nUse a portion of your puppy’s meals to work on Come every day. You will continue the lesson in the next few chapters, using a building block approach: Practice inside, outside, and when socializing your puppy away from home.\n\nMost puppies enjoy playing with toys, but they won’t understand the concept of sharing for a while. To help your puppy along, play the following game. Try it first with your puppy on a leash and with some treats or a clicker in your pocket. Take your puppy into a small, quiet room with a favorite ball or squeak toy and then follow these steps:\n\n1. Kneel on the floor and praise your puppy happily for a minute before you bring out the toy.\n\n2. When you bring out the toy, toss it in the air (and catch it) to encourage their interest and then give it a short toss.\n\n3. If they take the toy, let them keep it for a while.\n\nYou want them to feel that you’re not there to challenge them for it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 198, "chunk_index": 234, "id": "bfd17c00-a123-4cb2-abc5-d2117f23713c", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "4. Bring out the treats (and clicker, if you’re using that method). When you offer your puppy a treat, they will spit out the toy. As they do, say Give and either click-and-treat or simply treat as you praise them. Do not take the toy away from them. The goal is to teach your puppy that “Give” means “spit it out.” This action highlights your good intentions to play and not steal.\n\nYou can use a treat cup to encourage sharing. When your puppy has an object or a toy, shake the cup enthusiastically and say Give when they do.\n\nPractice these directions in the confines of a small room for five days, and then bring the direction into normally populated areas. Phase out the treats gradually. If your intention is to toss the toy, take it after they spit it out and toss it imme- diately. Praise them with an exclamation like this: “Good boy — let’s play!”\n\nEarlier in this chapter, I tell you about the importance of associating words with everyday routines; Table 10-1 gives some examples of phrases to use. The list of words you can use to identify your routines is endless, however. For example, you can teach your puppy the names of each room in your house, if you want to, or the name of each and every toy.\n\nWhatever phrase you choose, teach your puppy using the say-n-show format: Say the word and do the action. Reward your puppy for following along. Don’t stare and repeat directions over and over and over again, because your puppy may feel threatened and freeze up.\n\nHere are three more phrases I highly recommend teaching to your puppy:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 199, "chunk_index": 235, "id": "55534c47-5c39-42f2-b129-8e1281786c6c", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "» Inside/Outside: Teach your puppy how to navigate in and out of your home (also known as their den) by saying these words as you go inside or outside. Use treat cups and toys as you guide them by saying the word. Look at, reward, and praise their cooperation.\n\n» Car: Say Car each time you take your puppy to the car. As soon as they’re able to walk on their own, use treats or a toy to guide them, and then toss the rewards in the vehicle and say Find it as you help your puppy in.\n\n» Family names: If you live with family or friends, teach your puppy everyone’s names as you identify who’s entering their free play area. Say Daddy’s home; Lizzy’s coming down.\n\nI insist on the 4-paw rule when dealing with pups and often advocate its use in this book. It’s especially important to impress on puppies at this stage the impor- tance of the rule. Your puppy’s first lessons simply must include not jumping for treats, toys, or attention. Using the 4-paw rule (no notice or greeting or reward unless all four paws are on the floor) is easy at this stage. Every time your puppy jumps up at the gate to get attention or jumps during greetings, stop dead in your tracks and cover your face with your hands — a technique I refer to as the peeka- boo solution. (The idea here is to ostentatiously deny them the attention they seek.) If they jump for treats or toys, lift them out of reach. In all these situations, wait until your puppy is on all four paws to give them what they want.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 199, "chunk_index": 236, "id": "2cfc8c32-da42-4765-89fe-2c7e9c46119d", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Stairs can be a formidable obstacle for puppies. Some small breeds are just too little to tackle the stairs, so they must be carried up and down at this age. (Don’t worry: In time, they’ll be scampering up and down like the big dogs do.) Some larger-breed puppies, although big enough to use stairs, are afraid because their depth perception is only begjinning to develop around eight weeks of age.\n\nIf you have a puppy with stair phobia, help them walk the stairs, by wrapping your hands around their ribs and guiding them down slowly. A helper can crouch down to their level and shake a treat cup to cheer them on.\n\nIn Chapter 7, I talk about how you should set up your puppy’s free-play area. Start teaching your puppy their “place” ASAP — by putting a washable mat in a corner and arranging their toys and bowls nearby it. Teach your puppy the word Place by waving a toy or shaking a treat cup as you guide them to their area. Reward them after they have all four paws on the mat — good puppy! Should your puppy go on their mat on their own, keep treats handy to reward them.\n\nIn Chapter 14, I talk about how you can teach your puppy to ring a bell when they need to go outside to potty. The fact is, though, that your puppy can learn to ring a bell to get whatever they want. Hang one by the water dish to ensure that they stay hydrated, and by the doors so that they can alert you whenever they need to potty or want to come back inside. Tap the bell gently with your fingers just before you fill the water bowl or open the door — soon, your puppy will catch on and ring it, too.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 200, "chunk_index": 237, "id": "b989594b-ee93-48d2-b9ae-22aff69f3e0c", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy doesn’t catch on to the bell ringing within two weeks, dab the bell with a spreadable treat. Walk your puppy to the door as normal, but just before opening the door, offer the bell to investigate. Once your puppy touches it, praise them and proceed with the routine.\n\nYoung puppies have strong oppositional reflexes (something I call entrapment panic) if they feel caught against their will in any way. It’s a survival instinct that may play out if you insist on forcibly walking your young puppy on a tight leash. If you do, they may buck, freeze up, bite through the leash, or yelp as though they were caught in a bear trap. Worst of all, when forced to yield to a leash, a puppy grows up instinctively pulling in an attempt to break free, and will bolt given the opportunity.\n\nIt’s okay to place a lightweight collar or harness on your puppy soon after you get them home. If they’re like most puppies, they’ll fuss at first by scratching at their neck or rolling on the floor. If they do, condition their cooperation by placing it on before meals or for 20-minute intervals while you play Find It or toss favorite toys. Does your puppy run from you or back up when you approach to place their collar/harness on them? If so, kneel or pick them up first, use a spreadable treat or crumbly treat that you can place on the ground, and then place the item from behind your puppy.\n\nPuppies grow fast, so keep an eye on the collar size and loosen it when necessary.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 201, "chunk_index": 238, "id": "22481987-1357-4640-b5ed-bf971a494fac", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "When your puppy is accustomed to the collar, attach a light 4-foot freedom line to the buckle and let them drag that around as you play Find It, shake their treat cup, and toss toys. After a day or two, pick up the leash and follow behind them. Con- tinue to play Find It and play with toys, as they get used to having you following along at the end of their leash. Once that’s happening with ease, start to call your puppy’s name and encourage them to follow you.\n\nDo any number of foolish things to pique your puppy’s interest. When they start following you, reward them by placing the treats on the floor and saying “Find It-Follow.”\n\nIf your puppy actively resists following you, don’t run over to them; doing that reinforces the resistance. Instead, wave rewards or lower yourself to the floor while you praise them.\n\nThroughout your puppy’s life, they’ll be prodded, pinched, and probed for good (though unclear to them) reasons. To get your puppy used to all of life’s surprises, practice the handling exercises in this section early and often. No one would wish a cut on a puppy’s paw, a burn from an electrical cord, or a double ear infection, but these things do happen, and it helps to get your puppy prepared. (I talk more about health concerns and emergency issues in the chapters in Part 5.)\n\nHere’s a handling tip your veterinarian will love: Once a day, take out some savory food bits or a spreadable treat, and — while your puppy is cheerfully eating — play doggie-doctor. Use household objects to pretend with or scare up a toy doc- tor’s kit as you gently give your puppy make-believe shots, look in their ears and eyes, probe their belly, and so on. Mimic all the things they’ll experience during their wellness visits and mirror the actions you will take if your puppy gets sick.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 201, "chunk_index": 239, "id": "9b491120-8836-4338-a5a4-46bd28b874c4", "word_count": 323, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 419 } }, { "page_content": "If possible, schedule a tour of your chosen animal hospital before your puppy’s first appointment, to help them make a positive association to both the place and the people.\n\nThough you may never have given your puppy’s paws much thought, their feet are essential to every interaction. Handle and touch your puppy’s paws daily to ensure that future nail clipping, routine check-ups (for thorns or cuts after adventuring), and any future medical care their paws might need is a non-issue.\n\nA brand-new puppy is easy to condition and socialize because they’re unsure of themselves and how best to react to new situations. Most puppies look to their people to direct and translate new situations. How you greet and interact with people from all walks of life are their greatest examples.\n\nWhen welcoming new visitors, allow your puppy to approach them on their terms rather than thrust them forward or lift them excitedly. If your puppy is unsure, let them hang back, and encourage your visitors to wait for them to approach them.\n\nOf course, the best lesson in appropriate greeting manners comes from you. Mom was right again when she said, “Good manners start at home.” When greeting your puppy, be casual. Even though you may be beside yourself with delight, stay calm and interact with your puppy only when they’re calm, too.\n\nAs the weeks pass, your puppy will feel more a part of your household and be more interactive when new situations arise. If your puppy begins to jump or mouth you or your company, kneel next to them and brace them by clipping your thumb gen- tly under their collar. (See Chapter 9 for an illustration.) Steady them on all four paws whether you’re greeting them or someone is approaching you. Give the command Say hello as you or the admirer offer pats or treats.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 202, "chunk_index": 240, "id": "a7887b88-b7d3-4e32-b5bd-daff4ee95f67", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy is fearful or tense, ask the person to shake a treat cup and treat them so that they shape a new and more positive outlook. Also, ask the person to approach them from the side or to kneel. Straight on, the head-to-head greeting can easily overwhelm a nervous puppy, who’ll interpret the approach as threatening.\n\nFor more tips and tricks on socializing, flip to Chapter 9.\n\nAlready getting frustrated with your puppy’s behavior? You’re not alone. Before you leash, er, lash out, however, remember that your puppy isn’t capable of trans- lating your anger into a meaningful lesson. Your reactions only teach them to be wary of your moods, something that makes their behavior worse by the hour. Studies show that puppies who fear retaliation chew and nip more, and often mis- behave when their people are out of the room or not watching them. You have a long life with your puppy: if you’re having trouble with an issue, please refer to the appropriate areas of Part 4. (Flip to the table of contents or the index for guidance.)\n\n» Exploding onto the learning scene with your preadolescent puppy\n\n» Sequencing lessons so that you can teach three commands at a time\n\nChapter 11 Teaching Your Preadolescent Puppy: 14 Weeks to 6 Months\n\nAll good honeymoons must come to an end, and in the realm of puppy par-", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 203, "chunk_index": 241, "id": "18f4a5a8-b8e2-4ffd-a8e7-f557baff2170", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "enting, most end during the preadolescent phase. It’s not a pretty time, no matter the species. During this stage, puppies are beginning to recognize what behaviors get your attention, what games seem to last the longest (and not necessarily the games you want to play), and who’s organizing the day-to-day interactions — in their eyes, it may not be you. Even though your puppy may act pretty confident during this phase, they still need direction from you. The advice in this chapter can help you guide your puppy successfully through their preadolescence.\n\nPuppies emerge from their sleepy, early brain-growth phase with eagerness and enthusiasm for all of life’s many adventures. Your efforts will boil down to helping your puppy understand where to go and what to do in every situation. Say you’re\n\nsitting at the table or texting a friend or welcoming a visitor or waiting your turn at the vet’s office: Where should your puppy go and what should they do? How about when they’re bored or hungry or wants to play? If you don’t direct them, they’ll test out all the typical preadolescent shenanigans, including jumping, nip- ping, barking, and grabbing-’n’-going. It can be an utter nightmare.\n\nFortunately, this chapter provides a happy alternative to this type of nightmare. If you follow my advice here, you’ll end up surviving — and maybe even enjoying — your puppy’s preadolescence. With my tried-and-true sequencing approach, you’ll be able to introduce your puppy to three cues at a time. You’ll then be able to use those words to help your puppy understand where to go and what to do in every situation.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 205, "chunk_index": 242, "id": "5a31050e-59c4-432f-af32-727dd43f8aea", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "As you’re training your puppy and introducing new words into their vocabulary, make it fun. Your puppy will cherish their time with you, and lessons that help them identify words and end with rewards build a positive team spirit.\n\nBecause your preadolescent puppy has neither the attention span nor impulse control of a 7-month-old dog, the lessons in this chapter are tailored to meet your puppy’s capacities at the 14-weeks-to-6-months stage. Taken altogether, they allow your puppy to be successful, mastering each direction before you start applying it to their daily routine — similar to letting children master their addi- tion skills in school before asking them to balance your checkbook.\n\nPuppies, like kids, love plunging into group activities. The behavior they repeat is determined by what gets your attention, so focus only on the routines you want your puppy to repeat. Is your puppy over on their mat, chewing a bone? Stand up — quick! Race over and reward them for doing just that.\n\nI suggest that you practice each of the lessons outlined in this chapter twice daily for five to ten minutes per lesson (shorter lessons for younger puppies). As you practice, you may notice that your puppy picks up some directions faster than others. Don’t be too surprised. That’s how training usually goes. After all, think of what you’re accomplishing: You’re teaching another species your language. My advice is to be patient throughout the many phases because puppies learn best from an understanding teacher.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 206, "chunk_index": 243, "id": "b78c13f9-ddef-4e95-b3e3-57bf5c384233", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "During the 14-weeks-to-6-months stage, continue sleep training (as detailed in Chapters 6 and 10) and organizing your puppy’s time in the house, by either con- taining them in their free-play area, supervising them while dragging a freedom line or leash, or introducing them to all areas of your home on a walkabout. (More about walkabouts later in this chapter.) As they grow more comfortable with your surroundings, rather than burst out of their confinement and barrel through your home — grabbing every roll of toilet paper, stuffed animal, or sock they find in their way — you may gradually trust them with more freedom. Don’t rush it, though. If they do well for the most part but falls apart when company arrives, put them on the leash whenever you have visitors.\n\nAt this stage, your puppy should feel pretty confident in knowing where to go to get their basic needs met (eat, drink, sleep, potty, and play). If you’ve not outlined these routines, review the Needs Chart (Table 6-2) from Chapter 6 and the tips in Chapter 10. During preadolescence, however, your puppy will be far more interested in how they fit into the fabric of your everyday life. If you don’t tell them where to go and what to do, they will turn your life upside down by making their own set of rules — and that’s a nightmare I wouldn’t wish on anybody.\n\nAs your puppy is developing, both physically and mentally, you need to start teaching the following useful directions: Follow, Sit, Down, Stand Still, Stay, and Come. Though you may have already started some of these lessons, continue rein- forcing them throughout your puppy’s development. Build your lessons around their regular nap times (in the middle of the day), and don’t forget to intersperse the lessons with plenty of play and socialization.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 207, "chunk_index": 244, "id": "d7774728-b35d-4b7d-8b0b-f7df6d136517", "word_count": 306, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 397 } }, { "page_content": "As you’re teaching your puppy the meaning of different words, remember that they will respond to the sound of your voice, not the actual sense of the words. Say each cue word clearly, in a strong but nonthreatening voice.\n\nThe very best way to turn your puppy on to listening and learning from you is to use your words during the day as you play and care for all your puppy’s needs. Because playtime is every puppy’s top priority during this stage, the following list highlights which directions to use during each game. (To find instructions on how to play a particular game, flip to Chapter 20.)\n\n» Can’t Catch Me: Use your puppy’s name to attract their attention as you’re running away from them, and use the directions Wait and Find It when you stop abruptly to reward them. If your puppy jumps up, lift the treat high above their head until they are standing securely on all four paws.\n\n» Get Your Toy: When playing with your puppy’s toys, gather multiples so that you are never caught focusing on just one. Toss one toy, saying “Get Your Toy” and cheering your puppy on if they run after the toy. If your puppy returns to you, pair the cue \"Bring\" with their delivery, but don’t reach out or immedi- ately demand that they fork it over to you: Remember, puppies like kids need to learn how to share! If you can inspire their sharing the toy by offering a treat or baiting them with a new toy so they spit out the one they’re holding, say Give as they spit it out.\n\n» Belly Up: Anytime your puppy naturally lies down, say Down. Use Belly Up", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 207, "chunk_index": 245, "id": "bb583b87-4ae7-456b-8a6f-6d1bf1355ba7", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "whenever your puppy rolls on their back to get a scratch.\n\n» Roll Over: If you have a roly-poly puppy, say Down and Roll Over to get them\n\nIf there’s one thing young puppies lack, it’s impulse control. If you’re like most parents, you may feel overwhelmed and discouraged during your puppy’s trans- formation from a sleepy baby that everyone couldn’t wait to cuddle to the preado- lescent state — the puppy everyone avoids. To control their exuberance, or to help your puppy should a sudden noise or activity startle them, get a handle on these lessons as soon as you’re able.\n\nYour puppy’s ability to hold still for any length of time depends on their age as well as on how you introduce this lesson. At first, keep the lessons short and completely food-centered as you practice in a low-commotion environment. Work with your puppy off-leash or on a light freedom line if they’re easily distracted. Practice at a time when they are neither exhausted nor ready for play — it’s what I call the sweet spot of ideal focus. (All I can say is that you’ll know it when you find it.) Read the steps in the following sections, and visualize the exercise before getting started.\n\nAll puppies are born posturing, and they focus quickly on learning by way of signs and gestures. Though you’ll want to teach your puppy to listen for your direction, using sig- nals to reinforce your words can speed the learning along. As a bonus? A puppy who learns to read signals may watch you more attentively.\n\nDirect your signals just above your puppy’s nose or muzzle. Here are the signals you use in this chapter:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 208, "chunk_index": 246, "id": "63a6e2cf-6377-4d1c-b5f6-955d3a7d507e", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "Sit: Point your finger as you swing your right arm from your puppy’s nose to your face (as if you were scooping their attention toward you) and say Sit.\n\nDown: Point to the ground directly between your puppy’s paws.\n\nStand: Position your flat palm parallel to the floor.\n\nStay: Flatten your palm like a paddle. Flash it quickly in front of your puppy’s nose and say Stay.\n\nOkay: Point your finger and swing your right arm out from your puppy’s nose as you step forward. Say Okay to tell them Job well done!\n\nCome: Your open palm signals your puppy to come close to you. When calling your puppy from a distance, raise your arm straight above you and wave your hand (a move that I call the human exclamation point) as you say Come. If they’re coming too quickly, hold your arm in front of you like an air traffic controller and then draw your finger up to your nose (like the Sit signal) to encourage them to stop, sit, and check in with you.\n\nWait: Slice the air directly above your puppy’s face with your flat palm.\n\nGood Dog: To reassure, praise, and calm your puppy, pat your heart with your open palm and say Good dog. To encourage enthusiasm or to release your dog from a long stay, throw one arm or two above your head.\n\nPractice Stay on a carpet or nonskid mat so your puppy has a good grip.\n\nSTAY, STEP 1 1. Count out 25 dry food pellets (if your puppy enjoys them), or break up as many\n\n2. Direct your puppy to Sit, reward them with the first morsel, and then instruct Stay with a flash of your hand. (See Figure 11-1.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 209, "chunk_index": 247, "id": "0cafab12-249c-458a-8352-f3ac199a2e8e", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "3. Within one to two seconds, reward your puppy with another morsel. Repeat Stay, pause one to two seconds, and reward again.\n\n4. Continue to remind Stay and reward your puppy every second or two for three or four rounds before releasing them with Go Free!\n\nReward your puppy with morsels and attention only when they’re in the Sit-Stay position. Ignore them after they get up. Wait 10 to 15 seconds to call them over to start the next Sit-Stay sequence.\n\n5. Repeat this Stay lesson — all food-motivated at this point — until they consume the treats you’ve set aside.\n\nFIGURE 11-1: A flash of your hand tells your puppy to stay.\n\nYou’ll notice that your puppy is catching on when they keep holding their Stay position even after you release them. If this happens, praise them and give them another treat.\n\nAfter three days of short, consistently reinforced Stay lessons, practice for three more days but lengthen the duration of Stay from 1 or 2 seconds to 3 or 4 seconds, and then progress to 5- or 6-second Stay sequences. Follow the preceding steps, practicing in low-distraction rooms (the rooms may vary) on nonslippery surfaces.\n\nYour next goal is to wean your puppy off the repetitive reward pattern by intro- ducing a variable reinforcement schedule — one that has no identifiable pattern. Borrowing from the psychology of casino gambling, where erratic rewards are used to hook their patrons, this same inconsistent schedule will also excite your puppy’s participation.\n\nFollowing the same five steps outlined in the preceding section, your puppy will enter into a new phase of learning when you step away from the second-by- second reward loop and instead begin varying the time intervals between each treat. Here’s one example:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 210, "chunk_index": 248, "id": "766f9a5c-652a-47a9-b513-f6fdc06c0a78", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Stay – Pause 6 seconds – Reward-and-Release Go Free!\n\nNow vary the second interval between each Stay — and don’t worry about keeping track, because the whole goal is not to develop an identifiable pattern. After your puppy shows self-control, extend the intervals from 2 to 6 seconds to 2 to 10 seconds to 2 to 15 seconds and so on.\n\nMany puppies learn the magic of holding still along the way. They often default to sitting still and just patiently waiting, watching you. Reward that action!\n\nDon’t rush this direction. Take your time and use encouragement to ensure that your puppy has a rock-solid Stay throughout their lives.\n\nIf your puppy has zero interest in food and you’ve exhausted all effort to find something tasty enough to excite their interest (I’ve used hot dogs, bacon grease, and various dried animal parts), find something else to reward them. A happy voice or a special toy might work.\n\nAfter you’re both more confident with Stay, begin to increase the level of distrac- tion your puppy can tolerate — practice in the kids’ computer room, for example, or in the kitchen before mealtimes. If your puppy is having difficulty holding still when other people are present, go back to rewarding short interval stays every 2 to 4 seconds before building up to their previous average.\n\nIncrementally include Stay lessons in real-life situations such as around the cat, the kids’ activities, and even when greeting new people.\n\nPreadolescent Stay lessons should be all about self-control around distractions. I tell you how to work on long-distance Stay (where you leave your puppy’s side) in Chapter 12.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 211, "chunk_index": 249, "id": "cde409e0-dec5-43b6-b3eb-c7353a8c621f", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "The term Leave It tells your puppy that whatever they’re approaching is off limits. You can teach this lesson in two ways. Use both methods to help your puppy understand that whatever they’re tempted by is best to avoid.\n\nFind a spray or oil that many dogs find repulsive, such as a bitter-tasting spray deterrent found in most pet stores. (Vinegar works as well.) Before introducing your puppy to the odor, douse a tissue or paper towel with it and discreetly drop it on the floor.\n\nAs your puppy approaches the lure, say Leave It to warn them off. When they back away, kneel to play, reward, or pet them lovingly.\n\nNow use the scent to deter your puppy from chewing household objects or nipping your body or clothing. Continue to say Leave It when your puppy approaches objects that you prefer them to leave alone.\n\nThe second part of the Leave It lesson initially involves two treats: a high-value, preferably smelly treat and a low-quality kibble or biscuit, with each broken into small pieces. Using a leash is optional. Follow these steps:\n\n1. Call your puppy into a quiet room. 2. Ask them to Sit on your left side. 3. Holding the low-quality treat in your right hand, turn to hold it down at your puppy’s level (about 8 to 12 inches from their nose) as you say Leave It in a firm-though-nonthreatening voice.\n\n4. If your puppy lunges for the treat anyway (and most will), snap your hand shut over the treat like a clam and wait until your puppy pauses from even a split second to toss the more savory treat at their feet, saying Find It!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 212, "chunk_index": 250, "id": "79a36134-9244-4ec5-9c99-ae9cb5969ba1", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "5. Repeat this sequence several times in each session. Soon your puppy will know that when you say Leave It, they should resist the impulse to grab whatever is directly in front of them and look to you for a better option. After your puppy has mastered this step and can resist food even when it’s in front of them, you may begin to hold the low-value kibble lower to the ground (where it will be more tempting) or increase the value of the food you’re presenting to them.\n\nThough it takes some time and practice to get your puppy to the point of leaving a cat or critter alone in the middle of high chase, you should start to use this direc- tion around household distractions after they have the ability to contain their impulse around their food. Use Leave It if your puppy looks on the counter or when Auntie Grace drops their handbag or a visitor tells you that they’re afraid of dogs.\n\nLeave It isn’t an admonishment — it’s a direction that teaches your puppy self-control.\n\nTeaching your puppy Stop, Look, and Listen (also known as Wait)\n\nYour puppy needs to learn one word that rises above all others when it comes to getting them to stop dead in their tracks no matter where they are or what they’re doing. If you play your training cards right, your puppy will learn this word as an exhilarating game of Stop and Go. Begin with this fun off-leash exercise:\n\n1. Use your puppy’s meal kibble, or break favorite snacks into bite-size bits. 2. Go into a quiet room, calling your puppy to your side. 3. Holding a treat between your thumb and index finger, bring it to your puppy’s nose.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 212, "chunk_index": 251, "id": "8d340788-ba96-4c7d-b22b-722cf89f6830", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "4. Before giving them the treat, call their name and take three to five steps forward so that they follow you.\n\n5. Stop abruptly, with your treat hand at their nose. 6. Use a word like Yes or Good to mark the moment (or use a clicker, if you have one).\n\n7. Release the treat, saying Find It. 8. Continue to step and stop, taking the game to other locations and even practicing outside after your puppy is catching on.\n\nNow test it out during playtime and as you give treats. Hold a treat or toy in front of your puppy and instruct Wait. If they leap for it, lift it out of reach. Do not lower the toy again until they are standing or sitting calmly. Repeat Wait. If they hold still with the reward two feet above their head, drop it quickly for a quick game of Find It.\n\nUse Wait to teach your puppy self-control at doorways and during playtime as well as to teach them to check in with you periodically during walks or outings. Rewarding their cooperation with treats and toys — especially when they’re first learning this direction — ensures a lifetime of cooperation.\n\nBecause your doorway is the center of a lot of actifvity, it’s a good place to start teaching your puppy self-control:\n\n1. With your puppy on their leash and collar or harness, walk to the door.\n\n2. Plan on either shaking your puppy’s treat cup or using a toy to reward them when\n\n3. The moment they alert to the word, release the toy or treat and say Good Puppy.\n\n4. Repeat these steps, but this time when you say Wait, open the door a small crack.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 213, "chunk_index": 252, "id": "7daa772e-2743-4ce8-8714-b0c6341916b1", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "5. If they lunge, hold the leash steady, waiting until they stop pulling to reward them.\n\n6. Gradually open the door until you’re able to open it fully wide without your puppy\n\nInclude Wait on your outings to instruct your puppy to stop in place. With your puppy on their freedom line, periodically (no more than once every five minutes and as needed) say Wait and then step on or pick up the leash. Release your puppy to Go Free the moment they pause without struggling.\n\nWait differs from Stay in that it’s a momentary pause that can be used to instill polite manners at doors, stairs, and thresholds, as well as used in everyday con- versation. With a home full of pets and people, Wait is one word we use a lot.\n\nTeaching your puppy new words and routines can be fast and fun when using the sequencing method, which introduces three interlaced behaviors at once instead of just one at a time. Why three? Well, one is too few, and two is predictable — your puppy will naturally vacillate between the two behaviors without concentrating on what you’re saying — but three is the perfect challenge. Watch as your puppy slows their reactions to tune in to what you’re saying so that they can get it right.\n\nPractice one sequence per 5-minute lesson, and no more than two different sequences each day. Once your puppy is showing an understanding of words, you may bring the sequence out of lesson time and begin to use them in your daily interactions.\n\nOrganize your lessons in a quiet room or area. Treats are essential, so bring those along too — or a toy, if your puppy prefers it. The leash is purely optional at this stage.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 214, "chunk_index": 253, "id": "7ccb7c4b-f27a-48df-9451-6c29bc3940bc", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "I call the Sit-Down-Stand word cues the A-B-Cs of puppy training. You and your puppy will have fun learning this quick sequence.\n\nInitially, practice luring your puppy one behavior at a time. Remember to practice after a potty-and-play routine when your puppy is neither too sleepy nor too worked up to focus on learning something new.\n\nWhen doing Sit-Down-Stand, avoid ramming your puppy into position with your free hand. At best, you’ll get them there, although they won’t learn to do it for themselves; at worst, you’ll frighten them and they’ll grow more cautious during lesson time.\n\n1. Sit: Hold the treat from your puppy’s nose, bringing it to a point directly above their ears. As they sit, say Sit.\n\n2. Down: Hold the treat from your puppy’s nose, drawing it straight down to a spot directly between their paws. When they lie down, say Down. (See Figure 11-2.)\n\n3. Stand: Hold the treat from your puppy’s nose, drawing it out in a line directly in front of their eye, or if they are lying down, draw it at a slightly upward angle in front of their face. (See Figure 11-3)\n\nYour puppy may have an easier time learning one skill than another: That’s com- mon. Or, you may feel like you’re not able to move your puppy from one position to another without physically pushing them along with your free hand. Ideally, give your puppy time (sometimes it takes 30 seconds) to move into each position on their own. After the lightbulb goes off — this position works to get the treat — they will more quickly assume it the next time around. If you need to see this sequence in action, tune into my YouTube channel at www.sarahsayspets.com.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 215, "chunk_index": 254, "id": "4da375aa-be93-4cd5-ba60-743534f8a134", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "After your puppy has gotten each of the separate positions correct, sequence them together in random order. Gradually increase the number of behaviors they can complete per each reward — and time them, if you’re competitive, to see how many behaviors they can nail per 15-second interval.\n\nPlace your puppy on their leash or freedom line and get their attention with a treat cup or toy or by holding out a tasty food treat. Walk forward in a straight line, say- ing Follow as you do. If your puppy jumps ahead or on you, stop and lift the reward\n\nout of their reach. Start again when they calm down. After three to five steps, say Wait as you come to a stop. When they stop and look to you, drop the treat on the floor at your feet and say Find it.\n\nAfter you’ve established your walking rhythm, extend the steps between pauses. Begin around the room and then proceed into other areas of the house, as described in the \"Instilling Household Manners\" section, later in this chapter.\n\nIf your puppy swings out in front of you, walk along a wall and hold the reward behind your thigh. If they continue to jump at you, ask a helper to hold the line loosely and to tug it downward should your puppy leap up.\n\nCome is one of the first directions all puppies should know. Though I introduce it in Chapter 10, it bears repeating that Come should be taught as a cue that means you are together, not apart. During this preadolescent stage, practice Come as a sequence with other words to help your puppy understand that Come is a direction that leads to interactive fun. Here’s how:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 216, "chunk_index": 255, "id": "2bbaf25a-4b1d-4a06-ac73-86b17e1fd48f", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "1. Break treats into bits, and pocket or carry a treat cup while practicing this lesson.\n\n2. Call your puppy’s name as you step backward or run from their side. (Keep the distance short initially — fewer than five paces.) 3. As you stop, direct your puppy to Sit, and then reward them.\n\nAs your puppy learns this skill, your new goal will be to help them understand that Come ends with full hands-on interaction, ensuring that future Comes end up with your puppy at your side.\n\nTo do this, choose one of their petting poses — either Belly Up or Lean In (leaning into your legs).\n\n4. Say Come, and after your puppy comes and sits, kneel and lure them into a Belly Up or Lean In pose.\n\n5. Mix it up, pairing Come with either Sit, Lean In, or Belly Up.\n\nThink of the Come direction as the human phrase equivalent of “Huddle,” and encourage your puppy with that level of confidence. Convey that Come invites reconnection and that togetherness is the safest, most wonderful place to be.\n\nWhether you have kids around or you’re a kid at heart, the Over-Under-Through sequence is just plain fun. It also helps to teach your puppy self-control whenever people are sitting at their level:\n\n1. Get a handful of treats and sit on the floor with your legs side-by-side and extended out in front of you.\n\n2. Hold a treat in front of your puppy’s nose and lure them over your outstretched legs as you say Over.\n\nIf two legs are unsurmountable, separate your legs, letting your puppy tackle one at a time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 217, "chunk_index": 256, "id": "d20d35cd-b52c-409c-b400-802689d8a49e", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "3. Bend your legs to create a tunnel beneath them: Lure your puppy under your legs as you say Under, rewarding them for crawling under your legs. 4. Bend one leg (if your puppy will fit) over the other to create a modified tunnel combination, saying Through as you lure your puppy through the “tunnel” with a treat.\n\n5. Mix it up and reward your puppy at various points along the way.\n\nWhen you see good behavior that you want to reward, be careful how you mark the moment. Saying Good Dog! repetitively in a high-pitched tone may create so much excitement that your puppy may abandon their good behavior for something more recreational, such as nipping or jumping. Instead of lots of verbal praise, if you’re using a clicker, click before you treat. (See Chapter 5 for more on clickers.) If you’re not using a clicker, use a sharp, marking word like Yes or Good to highlight the exact behavior you want your puppy to repeat.\n\nTurning your young puppy free in your home, even if they’ve been doing well with their potty training, is a big mistake. They’ll misbehave and you’ll end up paying for it — in more ways than one. Unsupervised, a puppy can rearrange your closets, eat garbage, and chew on the chairs.\n\nIf your end game is to teach your puppy how to be free in your home, however, this is an ideal time to get started.\n\nOnce or twice a day, lead your puppy through your home on-leash. Though any- one in your immediate circle of friends and family may guide your puppy, let common sense prevail. Do not tether them to children younger than 12 or secure a rambunctious dog to an unsteady person.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 218, "chunk_index": 257, "id": "32313e63-6bfc-4e17-a5a9-753275e473b5", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "Following are some suggestions when touring your home:\n\n» Keep the walkabouts short and upbeat. Direct with the familiar words Follow, Wait, Sit, Place, and Leave It that you’ve been teaching them and reward their cooperation with treats and praise.\n\n» Speak directions clearly, and enunciate syllables. Also, give directions only once; repeated directions sound drastically different from single directions. (Consider the indecipherable “Sitsitsitcomeonpleasesitdown.”)\n\n» If you’re sitting, arrange a place for your puppy and settle them with a\n\nchew. If they can settle down, keep them with you.\n\nWhen your puppy gets into a routine in your home, you can test their self-control and cooperation by letting them drag a freedom leash as described in Chapter 5. Use your words and signals to direct them, guide them to their stations if you want them to be still, and pick up the lead if they get rambunctious or needs reminding.\n\nEstablishing a special place in the rooms you share\n\nAll puppies love to follow their families, and, when given a choice, yours will always want to be near you. Too much isolation is a bad thing because a puppy gleans their personality from group reflection. When possible, teach your puppy their special place in each of the rooms you share so that they can hang with you wherever you are in your home. If your puppy is still working on their house- training or instigates mayhem when given too much freedom, either walk them on a leash or tether them, as shown in Figure 11-4.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 219, "chunk_index": 258, "id": "44670082-6e59-455e-817a-3ce95e2547cf", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy must be fully comfortable on a leash and at least 12 weeks old before you begin tethering them. Until this age, most puppies feel frantically trapped on a leash and need more sleep than active training. Before then, supervision, crate time, and safe-room freedom are best.\n\nFIGURE 11-4: Tether when you can supervise and teach Stay.\n\nDetermining how long you can keep your puppy tethered to their special place depends on their age and mental state at the time. A sleepyhead of any age can handle an hour or more, and an older pup can handle more extended periods. The best gauge is your puppy’s behavior — always keep them tethered near you and be aware of their signals. If your pup has been resting by you for an hour and sud- denly stands up and starts acting restless, they probably need to go to their potty spot. If your puppy chews on a bone for 15 minutes and then starts acting like a jumping bean, they’re likely experiencing an energy spurt and needs time for a little play.\n\nWhen creating tethers for your puppy, follow these steps:\n\n1. Select a station area in each room you share — perhaps a spot near the couch in the TV room but away from the table in the dining room.\n\nPuppies fidget, so make sure the station is away from stairs, electrical cords and outlets, and other entanglements.\n\n2. Set up the area with a comfy mat and your puppy’s favorite chew toy.\n\nDoing so helps them identify their special place — their comfort station. Think of the comfort station in human terms: When you go into your living room, don’t you have a favorite couch or chair?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 219, "chunk_index": 259, "id": "febae24b-de5e-4d3f-b80a-d998f8441797", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "3. Identify an immovable, sturdy, and secure object near the comfort station where you can secure the puppy’s leash. (Refer to Figure 11-1, where the leash is hooked around a table leg.)\n\nIf you have nothing to secure the lead to, screw an eye hook into the wall and clip the leash through it.\n\nSome puppies like to get in the way. Blocking you attracts your attention, but it can be dangerous if you trip or step on your pup. Whenever your puppy trips you up, gets on the wrong side of the leash, leans, or gets in your way, say “Excuse\n\nEventually, your puppy will go to their station naturally. Initially, though, you must secure them at the station until they learn to enjoy their special place.\n\nSome puppies panic when initially tethered. If you’re concerned about your pup, arrange their place nearby and sit on the leash rather than tether it to an immov- able object. Encourage bone chewing and begin to leave their side only when they’re sleeping. They’ll soon get the hang of it.\n\nIf your puppy is a leash chewer, you may find them chewing their tethering leashes — it’s a common frustration. To circumvent the issue, purchase light- weight chain leashes for tethering times.\n\nTeaching your puppy polite manners around food — for their meals and yours — is a must-do task. And it’s a whole lot easier when everyone is following the same routine.\n\nFor your puppy’s mealtimes, they need to learn to sit and wait as you prepare their food. If they won’t cooperate — jumping or barking at you in anticipation — you have a few choices:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 220, "chunk_index": 260, "id": "3bfcfb21-3a7e-4d7c-99ac-fe5ff96a8c4e", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "» Push the food bowl back and ignore your puppy completely, putting their food\n\n» If your puppy gets set off by the routine, break the routine into parts and teach your puppy to sit and wait for each step, giving them handfuls of the meal or a reward for each successful step. If they act up, push the food out of reach and walk away. Resume this mealtime-manners game in 5 or 10 minutes.\n\n» If your puppy still jumps or barks as you’re in the throes of final preparations, have them drag a leash before you begin. If they become overexcited, step on the leash using the techniques I outline in Chapter 15.\n\nFor your own mealtimes, designate a station area four to six feet from the table where your puppy can sit or play while you and your family are eating. If you’ve already encouraged interruptions, you can be sure that they won’t stay put ini- tially, so tether them there, as described earlier in this chapter. If they’re still having trouble relaxing, exercise and play with them just before you eat, and set aside a special chew or toy that comes out only when meals are served.\n\nLooking at your puppy invites them to the feast. To encourage civility, ignore them while you eat. I know that it seems cold-hearted, but in the end, you’re teaching them that this is the time to snooze or catch up on some undisturbed chewing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 221, "chunk_index": 261, "id": "9253f7b8-e77d-4430-8969-f9508ba5b174", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "During your puppy’s preadolescence, their adult teeth will emerge and their hair will begin to grow and fill in; it’s a happy time and a sad one, when many of their infant puppy characteristics fade away. Though Chapter 17 addresses grooming tips and techniques, I thought I should stress at least once in this chapter the importance of conditioning your puppy to their grooming tools now — the sooner you get started, the more they will link their sprucing to food and fun.\n\nHere are three tools to introduce your puppy to. Use favorite chews, spreadable treats, and high-value food rewards to get your puppy acclimated to their use:\n\n» Toothbrush: Organize a routine around the tooth-brushing event to build\n\nexcitement for the activity. I always brush each of our dog’s teeth separately in the small downstairs bathroom to build up eagerness for each turn.\n\nSandwich a dab of safely formulated doggie paste between your chosen brush and a high-value food treat. Say Pearly Whites as you extend the brush to your puppy. After they alert to the routine, continue to play the game for a few more days, slowly diminishing the size of the food treat. Ask a partner to steady your puppy’s head by holding a treat to their nose as you get them comfortable having the brush rotated in their mouth.\n\n» Nail and hair clippers: This is an excellent time to get your puppy used to the\n\nsound of any future clipping tools you or your groomer will use in your puppy’s lifetime. It bears repeating that preadolescent puppies are more receptive to noises as well as to any handling or unfamiliar physical interac- tions than at any other time in their lives. Pairing handling with positive outcomes becomes forever lodged in the area of their brain labeled It Must Be Okay Just Because It Leads to Something Good.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 222, "chunk_index": 262, "id": "4c6f5481-ead9-40d6-b3bf-6f17b0597f4b", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "1. Take whatever tool you’ll use (a nail clipper, for example).\n\n4. Repeat Step 3, but this time open and shut the clipper one time.\n\n5. Continue to expose your puppy, open and shut the clipper a time or two, and reward them only after you’ve removed the clipper from sight until they are relaxed about the activity. Repeat this activity with the other grooming tools.\n\n» Grooming brushes: Whatever your puppy’s coat type, assemble the brushes, shedding blades, or combs you’ll need during this stage. Condition your puppy to their presence as outlined with the clipper, but extend the practice to gently touching their coat. Remember to reward them after you remove the object. Gradually comb through their coat, removing the object often to reward their cooperation.\n\nYour puppy “sees” the world through their sense of smell, so let them sniff every- thing that comes near their body. They have to have a good sniff to feel comfort- able with their surroundings.\n\nDuring your puppy’s teenage months, you’ll witness their emotional\n\nawakening — it’s a time when their adult hormones let loose and external distractions interrupt everyday routines. If you know your dog’s breed or mix, this is also the time when many specific traits emerge: Terriers grow more vigilant; protective breeds, more territorial; retrievers and herders, more obses- sive with their passions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 223, "chunk_index": 263, "id": "e04e0ea4-cd5d-4fcf-b7fc-0f7ce64fc2f6", "word_count": 224, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 291 } }, { "page_content": "If you’ve established good habits, they’ll stick, although at times you may think your puppy has forgotten every lesson you’ve ever taught them. Trust me: No hostile or domineering impulses are taking over your puppy’s brain. It’s just that teenage puppies, like maturing kids, blossom into early adulthood with a lot on their minds. As I stress throughout this book — and even more so at this particu- lar stage in your puppy’s life — keep your cool. Sure, your puppy may act like a stranger at times, but they still identify with you and adore you most of all. This chapter will help you appreciate your puppy’s changing priorities and coach them through this awkward time. Together, you’ll not only discover how to survive this time but also how to thrive with everyone’s dignity intact.\n\nStarting the training process with an older puppy? Flip to Chapter 11 to learn the early lessons you missed.\n\nAt the teenage stage, your puppy’s world is being shaped by two conflicting forces: the desire to please you and the desire for some independence. Don’t take it per- sonally. Your efforts to follow through with your directions will assure your puppy that you mean what you say and will result in their respect, regardless of whether they feel like listening at any given moment. Build on the lessons I sketch out in Chapter 11, and, before you know it, you’ll survive the worst of it when it comes to bringing up puppy. Here are a few rules to help you through this stage:\n\n» Remain calm. Don’t let your puppy see that you’re angry or frustrated. » Make sure your puppy doesn’t ignore you. If your puppy blows off your", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 225, "chunk_index": 264, "id": "25da1f5f-4a9b-47f8-8bcc-d1ef67bf1a97", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "direction, often as if they hadn’t even heard it, calmly repeat the direction and reinforce your expectations. If your puppy is off-leash and ignores or defies a direction, ignore them and withdraw from the situation, provided they’re in a safe enclosure. When possible, take the treat cup and pretend to eat from it, refusing to share or even acknowledge the puppy that just moments ago blew you off.\n\n» Raise your puppy’s consciousness. Teach your puppy the concept of Nope.\n\nFor more details on developing their awareness, see the later section “Teaching your puppy the concept of Nope.”\n\nIf you began training during one of the early stages of puppyhood, many of your training habits are likely set already; if not, refer to the relevant conditioning sec- tions of Chapters 10 and 11 to bring your puppy up to speed. Puberty, which hap- pens during the teenage stage, results in the release of adult dog hormones that dramatically shape and modify your puppy’s mannerisms. Many parents report what you’ll experience: a cheerfully cooperative puppy suddenly blowing you off; a get-along-with-everyone puppy terrorizing the new pooch at the dog park; and what in the world do you call that thing they’re doing on the couch cushions — a pelvic thrust? Oh, the things you have to look forward to.\n\nBefore your puppy strays too far off course, make a list of all the good puppy man- ners you expect from your darling and share it with friends and family. Insist on\n\nfollowing through with expectations, and refuse to settle for any new ideas, lest friends and family develop their own set of rules. Here’s a mock list — you should use it to clarify for everyone reading it what you want your puppy to do in each situation — and don’t be afraid to remind them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 226, "chunk_index": 265, "id": "37874c3f-431b-434e-ade8-5126a750a367", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "» Approaching a door, at home, or on the road: Puppy must sit, coming in\n\n» Greeting: Puppy should grab a toy from the basket and only be greeted after\n\nthey’ve calmed down enough to sit or roll on their back\n\n» Mealtime manners: Puppy must sit and wait for puppy food and also lie on a\n\n» After-hours TV/computer: Puppy should lie on a mat and chew a toy. » Greeting other dogs and people while on a leash. Puppy must sit at your\n\nSomewhere during the teenage stage, your puppy will give you The Look — the one that says they know what you want but they’re not going to obey immediately. Maybe your puppy’s look will say, “In a minute!” or “Have we met?” Or maybe your puppy will give you the equivalent of a teenage eye roll. But you’ll get The Look someday, so prepare yourself. Acting out is a part of growing up.\n\nSo, how should you deal with your puppy when they don’t want to listen to one of your many directions? Well, number one, don’t sweat the small stuff. If you get mad over a minor infraction like your teenage puppy blowing you off, life’s going to get a lot worse for you. Don’t yell, chase, hit, or isolate your puppy, either — those techniques won’t buy their long-term cooperation.\n\nAs you work with your puppy during this stage, remember that they’re the one going through puberty right now, not you. (Whew!) Life is hard and confusing for them now; they’re easily distracted. Sometimes all it takes is a gentle reminder; at other times, maybe you need two or three. No matter how often t has to occur, calmly insist on what puppy needs to do with stationary directions like Sit, Stay, and Down.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 227, "chunk_index": 266, "id": "83050272-e4e1-44c8-9dd4-0a17a1319d10", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "Try not to be angry if your puppy willfully ignores a direction. You still know best what has to happen next. Calmly repeat yourself even if your puppy is distracted, insisting that listening to you is a requirement, not an option.\n\nOne particular situation needs a firm hand — handling a runaway puppy. If your puppy is off-leash in an unconfined area and you feel that you must go to them, walk at an angle to a point ten feet away from where they’re standing. If you have treats or a treat cup, make a big fuss about eating the treats yourself. (Your puppy has no idea that you won’t actually do it.) Avoid walking straight at your puppy as they may interpret your direct approach as a game. If your puppy approaches you, calmly cast treats on the ground or floor and play Find It. Then calmly hold their collar or attach a leash.\n\nAfter you have your puppy back on-leash, review the lesson they ignored, and practice on-leash lessons for five or ten minutes every day for one week. Remind- ers are often all they need.\n\nIf your puppy continues to ignore a stationary command like Sit or Down, review that one as well.\n\nMany puppy parents dole out No as if it were their puppy’s middle name. More often than not, though, people use the word No inconsistently, which tends to leave puppies baffled about its meaning. It should mean Leave It or Stop — an instructional cue, not a discipline per se. You don’t want your puppy to ever see you as a venting machine. You’re the one who is too cool to blow your lid. If you want your puppy to respond appropriately to this type of cue, avoid the following mistakes:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 227, "chunk_index": 267, "id": "6f8137a7-839c-45cf-b53f-ce166334a001", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "» Shouting it: Shouting to a puppy sounds like barking. Would barking excite a\n\n» Using it with your puppies’ name: In fact, many puppies think No is the second half of their name: “Buddy, no!” “Molly, no!” You should use your puppy’s name only when you’re happy, not angry.\n\n» Saying it after the action has occurred: If I yelled at you after you ate a bowl of soup, would you understand that I was upset at you for opening the can? Said at the wrong time, No communicates nothing.\n\n» Repeating it: “No, no, no” sounds different than a one-word direction.\n\nThe purpose of teaching your puppy to stop doing what they’re doing is to help you weigh in when you’re giving your puppy direction around distractions. Maybe you’ll need to use it when you’re calling your puppy from another group of dogs — or when you walk by a big pile of animal scat. Since No is used frequently, we’ll use a softer version, Nope, through the training lessons in the following sections.\n\nYour puppy will get pretty creative as they mature, testing out new behaviors and revisiting a few old habits before they’re all grown up. Though a whiny, couch- cozying, slipper-chewing, garbage-grabbing puppy can look completely inno- cent, and it’s hard to resist laughing the first time your puppy streaks by with that roll of toilet paper unfurling behind them, if you let anything slide twice, your puppy may have a new habit in the making. Decide early on what your puppy needs in order to feel included and satisfied in each situation (a bone, a mat, a 15-minute game of Toss after a nap), and insist on only the behavior you’ve outlined.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 228, "chunk_index": 268, "id": "90719a29-7417-49bc-ad63-8be4f502ca5b", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Though your puppy may still need up to six hours of daytime rest in their crate, they may like sleeping on their calming station (see Chapter 5) as well. Test it out by gating the crate room area, placing the rest mat outside the crate, and leaving the crate open for nap times. Can the puppy sleep as well outside of the crate? If they can, you may begin phasing out the crate for afternoon nap times.\n\nYou may want to continue crating your puppy at night, though the choice is up to you. If you want to have your puppy sleep crate-free, tether your pup with a light leash to your bed or another immovable object, as fully described in Chapter 11.\n\nTeenage puppies are still growing and need lots of replenishing sleep. If your puppy is restless or fidgety outside of their crate, go back to schedulling naps in their enclosure.\n\nMost puppies start phasing out a meal on their own. If yours does not, you can wean them off their midday meal during this stage over a 6-day period using the following strategy: Cut one-fourth of the meal for one day, one-half for days 2 and 3, three-fourths by days 4 and 5, and then phase out the meal altogether.\n\nBy this stage, your puppy has bladder control. Urge them to stay in their crate 15 to 30 minutes longer each morning by waking them up with a bone or food- stuffed hollow toy, until they’re content sleeping in until your ideal target time.\n\nTHE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A LURE, A REWARD, AND A BRIBE\n\nThere’s a big difference between the following three concepts — especially in your dog’s eyes:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 229, "chunk_index": 269, "id": "461e0c0a-9bd4-48f1-9987-b52193a5bf69", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Lure: Lures are generally a value food reward or a favorite toy used to guide a puppy through an action. A word cue can be attached to the action, which a puppy will learn over time.\n\nReward: Anything that a puppy values (freedom, a toy or bone, playtime, release from a crate or car) may be used to reward them for listening or responding to a signal.\n\nBribe: Bribes (generally, food) are used to cajole after a puppy has ignored a direction.\n\nThough lures are good for early training and rewards for good behavior can be given at any time, bribes are a big no-no unless you want a puppy who listens only when you’re waving a big piece of chicken in your hand.\n\nAs your puppy moves from preadolescent puppy lessons into the next phase of their learning, you’ll notice a few new things — namely, that your puppy is pro- cessing a lot more information than just “them” and “you.” Suddenly, that other dog barking in the distance has a crucial message that needs translation and often an immediate response, the vehicles zooming by take a form that elicits their developing predatory impulses, and, when given a choice, they’d often rather stay at the dog park than come home with you.\n\nThe good news is that your puppy will still excite to their old word cues if you keep the lessons fresh, and may work even harder to please you if you come up with new fun routines. Bring your lessons out into the real world, phase out your treat dependency, and engage your puppy’s focus by rewarding them with anything they consider positive, from playing with their dog friends to a swim in the lake.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 230, "chunk_index": 270, "id": "f9f1e308-8d65-4756-94ee-c869746da70c", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Stay is a direction best left unrushed. I introduce it in Chapter 11 using treats and toys. Although you should continue to use Stay to encourage self-control around\n\nfood and games, bring this lesson into your everyday interactions, challenging your puppy’s focus as you add more distance and distractions to each exercise.\n\nHere are a few rules to follow when teaching the Stay direction:\n\n» No staring. Avoid staring at your puppy when they’re holding a Stay. It’s too\n\n» Stand tall. When you bend down, you can look threatening to your puppy or\n\n» Stay close to your puppy when you start. You should have about six inches from toe to paw. Creating too much distance too soon can be confusing for your pup.\n\n» Hold the lead directly above your puppy’s head. Do this initially for each\n\nexercise. That way, if they confuse Stay with Go, you’re there to steady them in place.\n\n» Vary the pause time. When you return to your puppy’s side at the end of\n\neach exercise, vary the length of time you pause before you release them with “Okay!” This variation prevents their “reading” the pattern and encourages them to keep a more watchful eye on your whereabouts.\n\n» Resist petting. Hold off until you finish the entire lesson. Praise is better —\n\ndo that with your voice. Too much petting ruins their concentration.\n\nPractice the simple sequence in the following steps twice a day until your puppy is feeling mighty fine about their accomplishments.\n\nTo prepare for your first lesson, follow these steps:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 230, "chunk_index": 271, "id": "e2c70f05-ae26-4eba-909d-4a45f8d5ae10", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "2. Fold the leash in your left hand and hold it directly above their head, so that it’s taut (but not tight) at hip level. 3. Position your puppy behind your heels.\n\nNow you’re ready to teach your puppy their first lesson. Repeat the following steps four to six times — depending on the intensity of each exercise:\n\n1. Instruct “Sit” and align your puppy with your ankles. 2. Instruct “Stay” as you flash your hand in front of your puppy’s nose. Remove the hand signal and pause for five seconds.\n\n3. Instruct “Okay” as you swing your arm forward and step out of position. 4. Again, instruct “Sit-Stay.” This time, pivot to face away from your puppy and pause ten seconds. Return to the starting point and release with “Okay!”\n\n5. Back to the start position again, instruct “Stay.” Pivot in front of your puppy. Pause. Now march in place to create a physical distraction that will teach your puppy how to contain themselves. Yes, I said march! March slowly at first, like you’re sleepwalking. After your puppy holds still for that, gradually increase your physical motions.\n\n6. Instruct “Stay” and pivot and pause. Then try jumping and waving your arms.\n\nGo slowly at first. You want to ease into your mania. Then make some noise. 7. Pivot, pause, and then make the sound of your favorite barnyard animal while looking away from your puppy. Then turn back, pause, and release.\n\nI’ve said it before, but it bears repeating a thousand times: No staring into your puppy’s eyes, because dogs view prolonged glares as confrontational, not instructional. Instead, keep looking over their head.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 231, "chunk_index": 272, "id": "bb73dbe3-9152-4b82-ad6e-568c62c9435d", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "8. From your starting position, instruct “Stay,” pivot in front, and pause for 30 seconds.\n\nStand up tall, relax your shoulders, and keep the leash above your puppy’s head (taut not tight) just in case they’re tempted to break.\n\n9. When the time is up, return to their side, pause, and release with “Okay!”\n\n“Good pup!” Only use verbal praise between exercise as petting can excite your puppy’s playful nature!\n\nSome puppies have a reduced attention span and initially may not be able to hold still for long. Check to ensure that you’re following protocol: Did you start with the early Stay lessons outlined in Chapter 11? Are you standing right in front of them as you increase distractions? Are you keeping the leash above their head to enforce their control? Are you introducing this direction in a discrete location? Too many distractions make it impossible to concentrate. If you think your puppy may have to go potty, take them on a quick potty run. If they’re fidgeting, bring them back to a Sit and either make the sequence shorter or stand closer to your puppy.\n\nWhen your puppy can hold still for 15 seconds, you’re ready to increase the three Ds:\n\n» Distraction: Step up your march, add a new aerobics twist, walk full circle\n\naround your puppy, and chant like a chimp. Can you do all these crazy things without tempting your puppy to move?\n\nAre you wondering why you’re jumping around and making noise while your puppy is expected to stay? Eventually, your puppy will have to concentrate while confronted with motion and sound distractions, so you’re helping them get accustomed to temptations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 232, "chunk_index": 273, "id": "238f338b-3547-4583-81ca-b7e14e94c8e2", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "» Duration: Stretch your 30-second standstill to two minutes. » Distance: Move out one foot at a time. When you’re successful, reintroduce\n\nAs you progress, you may try securing the leash to an immovable object and increasing your distance or practicing Stay at the door or while a friend opens the door or while you ring the bell. Gradually introduce Stay to challenge your puppy’s self-control. When they can handle all that, the two of you should feel like pros.\n\nYour puppy’s lust for adventuring will expand a lot during the teenage period, as will their taste in friends both on-leash and off. As they become more mindfully aware of life around them, it’s the perfect time to work on their leash-walking skills. Because an unruly leash-walking dog can be one of life’s biggest night- mares, work twice a day on shaping cooperative walking skills (using your choice of compassion wear as detailed in Chapter 5) to ensure that you and your puppies walking together are nothing short of a dream.\n\nTeaching your puppy to walk calmly with you on a leash is a bit of an art form. Because leash pulling is so common that it could practically qualify as an Olympic sport (all dogs pull against resistance, no matter their age or size), teaching your puppy not to pull takes effort. Here’s what you have to do:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 233, "chunk_index": 274, "id": "fcda91a7-c58c-4d14-bd69-f41571e09195", "word_count": 229, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 297 } }, { "page_content": "1. After playing with your puppy for 10 to 15 minutes (preferably off-leash), secure them on their compassion wear collar or harness (see Chapter 5) and a 4-to-6-foot walking leash, and guide them to your left side. (See Figure 12-1.) 2. Place a handful of food rewards in your pocket (no fewer than 25 small treats). 3. Walk in a familiar area outside, saying “Follow me.” 4. If, after three to five paces, your puppy is walking with you, stop as you say “Wait,” and then reward them by placing a treat next to your left foot.\n\n5. Walk in a counterclockwise circle with your puppy on the inside as you extend the distance you move together. Gradually lengthen the steps you take before each pause.\n\nFIGURE 12-1: Be cheerful and upbeat when teaching your puppy to walk at your side.\n\nIf you have a puller, don’t tug, yank, or jerk them back: Most interpret your sud- den surges as Game On and pull a lot harder. The best thing to do is to stop. Relax your arm straight on the leash and think of your elbow as a hinge. Rock it back slightly to offer the slightest give and hold your puppy in place until they stop pulling. The very moment your puppy stops pulling, looks back to you, or sits in place, mark the moment with a happy exclamation like “Good” (or use a clicker, if you have one) and place their food reward by your left foot.\n\nIs your puppy too strong for you to manage? Consider a conditioning harness or head collar, mentioned in Chapter 5. You can hold the leash behind your back with both hands. This position transfers the strain of the leash from your arms to the trunk of your body. If your puppy hacks or strains harder, however, call a profes- sional for assistance. If you persist, you may do damage to their airway.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 233, "chunk_index": 275, "id": "648caa53-3d66-439d-a74c-d30a5730e3c0", "word_count": 322, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 418 } }, { "page_content": "To help perfect the leash move, practice without the leash. Relax your arms at your side, and let them swing back and forth from your elbow. Now imagine that I’m holding my hand behind your back. Slap my hand without doing more than flexing your triceps muscle with a slight bend of your elbow. Now pick up the leash. Pretend that my hand is there and that you’re trying to hit it.\n\nAs your puppy follows more willingly, play the pace-change game to keep them interested. Holding your leash hand steady, move faster by trotting. Then slow your pace by lengthening your stride. Make sure you change gears smoothly, and indicate the change by saying “Click-click” or “Shh.” Remember, your puppy’s a canine, not a Porsche.\n\nAfter you have your puppy walking to your rhythm, you’re ready to teach them the turns. Walking at a reasonable speed, say “Follow” and pivot to the right. To help your puppy keep up, slow down as you turn. Click your tongue, bend your knees, or slap your leg to keep them with you. Walk six paces, stop and position the Sit, and then hug your puppy for a job well done.\n\nAvoid pulling the puppy through the turn. That’s no fun for them.\n\nYou’ll know you’re ready to practice the Follow direction in everyday situations when your puppy responds without pressure on their collar. One obvious place to use the Follow direction is on your walks. If your puppy’s young or just beginning to learn, practice Follow for one-fourth of your walk. Increase the distance over the next month until your puppy is always walking at your side.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 234, "chunk_index": 276, "id": "b61216a3-e2dc-4391-aa8c-11cc37169f53", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Stay calm if things get out of hand when you’re out in public. If you yell, “Follow, follow, follow!” and jerk your poor puppy back and forth, they’ll get more excited. If you have this problem, determine whether you’re asking too much too soon and check to see whether you’re using the right collar. (See Chapter 5.) Maybe your puppy needs to exercise more before you practice in public.\n\nAs you’re walking, you will pass other dogs and people. Though it’s okay to let your puppy greet some dogs and some people, they should not greet everyone. You need to be the one to judge whom to approach. Dog people are easy to identify: They look lovingly on your puppy as if just one pat will make their whole day. If you have the time, ask your puppy to Wait and Sit. Only after you have them set- tled should you allow them to go and greet a new person.\n\nIf you see another dog, well, that’s another matter. You need to make super-sure that any dog you approach has good leash manners and is dog-friendly. Unless you know the dog, you may not be able to tell; in this case, it’s better to teach your\n\npuppy the phrase not now, speeding up as you pass the other dog and discouraging your puppy from making any direct eye contact with passing dogs.\n\nIf you know an oncoming dog and want to stop to allow some on-leash interac- tion, you may certainly do so. Ask your puppy to Wait and Sit, however, before releasing them to greet.\n\nAllowing your puppy to drag you over to greet another dog is foolish and unsafe. Leashes modify a dog’s natural posture, making them look confrontational even when they’re anything but; also if your puppy were to break free from the leash, they would impulsively take off, putting themselves and others in danger!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 235, "chunk_index": 277, "id": "5313002b-df33-48cf-adc1-7bfaa636950c", "word_count": 318, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 413 } }, { "page_content": "Chapter 11 stresses the fun to be had learning the meaning of lots of different words, from Come to Sit, Down, and Follow. Using a sequence lesson format, Chapter 11 also shows you how to teach three words simultaneously and how to vary the order of the words you use in order to perfect your puppy’s listening skills. This chapter asks you to put their understanding to the test by using their words out in the real world and teaching them to listen, no matter the distance between you.\n\nContinue using the Wait direction to catch your puppy’s attention at doorways, cars, or stairs or before entering an area of high stimulation (for example, the veterinarian’s office, a room full of children, or a dog training class). This direc- tive tells your puppy to stop, look to you, and listen for another instruction. If you’re successfully using this direction in these situations, begin to practice it on your walks, and then at a distance:\n\n1. Stop in your tracks as you direct “Wait.” 2. Hold the leash securely if your pup doesn’t stop with you. 3. Release with “Okay.” On a freedom line\n\n1. Position yourself next to the line, initially ten inches behind your puppy’s tail.\n\n3. If your puppy stops and checks in, mark the moment with a clicker or a word like “Good,” and then immediately release your puppy with “Go Free” to continue exploring.\n\n4. If they cannot process Wait from this distance, step on the line. When they are brought to a stop, wait for them to check in, then respond as though they stopped on their own. Mark the moment they look to you with a click or Good! then release with “Go Free”.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 236, "chunk_index": 278, "id": "450e015a-090b-4bad-ad81-1f88a1c5d573", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "5. Repeat the steps, this time furthering the distance in Step 1.\n\nThe goal when you say “Come” is to have your puppy return and reconnect with you. Each time you say this direction, pat, treat, or otherwise handle your puppy so that they learn that “Come” means “togetherness and interaction.” As you gradually instruct them to come from a greater distance, they’ll want to close the gap.\n\nChapter 11 has all you need to know in order to teach your puppy Come. Continue to practice this lesson (review, if necessary) throughout the day whenever you have something positive to share — a pat, a treat, a toy, or even dinner. Make sure your puppy’s first associations in this direction are warm and welcoming.\n\nBefore you can teach your pup to come from a distance, they must understand that “Come” means togetherness. After they understand, you’re ready to go for dis- tance control, using a freedom line or retractable leash. (See Chapter 5 for info on leashes.)\n\nPractice this exercise in a quiet room and keep your lesson short and upbeat.\n\nTo teach distance control, make sure your pup is wearing a long lead and then fol- low these steps:\n\n1. Practice three regular Sit-Stays, finishing each by returning to your puppy’s side and releasing them with “Okay!”\n\n2. Leave your puppy in a Stay position and walk to the end of the leash. 3. Pause. (Vary the duration each time.) 4. Call “[Name], come!” in a directional tone. Signal it by raising an arm straight above you and waving (the human exclamation point!).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 237, "chunk_index": 279, "id": "48fca353-e723-4fd4-ae5b-e61894b91d29", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "5. As soon as you issue the direction, scurry backward and reel in the leash.\n\n6. When your pup gets near your feet, bring your finger up to your eyes. 7. Encourage eye contact by standing or kneeling and making kissing sounds.\n\n8. Pet their head or belly as you reward them with positive love and interaction.\n\n9. Release them with “Okay” and always remember to praise your good puppy.\n\nPractice Come three times per session. That’s all. More than that is stressful for your pup.\n\nIf your puppy gets excited when they hear “Come,” you’re doing a good job. Now you can start encouraging focus around everyday distractions and increasing the distance from which you call them. Use the leash, freedom line, or retractable leash. Instead of putting your puppy from a Sit-Stay, wait for them to get dis- tracted. Stand behind them and call “[Name], come!” If they don’t look to you, tug the leash and use rewards and praise to entice them. You may also run away from them a short distance before turning and welcoming them into your arms.\n\nIf you’re having trouble getting your puppy’s attention around distractions, you’re not alone. Keep practicing, but start in a lower distraction area so that you can build your puppy’s success rate — and yours, too.\n\nHere are a few things to remember when teaching the Come direction:\n\n» Do use it sparingly. When you overuse Come, dogs stop paying attention.\n\nWhen your puppy understands the direction, avoid using it all the time. Say it infrequently and make it extremely rewarding. (Don’t forget about the other directions you have in your arsenal: Inside for coming indoors, Let’s Go for following after you, and Follow for staying at your side.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 237, "chunk_index": 280, "id": "91678b01-3d31-4e60-bf28-6dec766da115", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "» Do use a different direction to bring your puppy inside. Coming in from outdoors is a big drag for your pup, no more fun than being left alone or ignored. Using the Come direction when you want to bring your pup inside makes it a negative direction. Instead, pick a direction like Inside. Start using it on-lead when bringing your puppy into the house. Quickly offer a treat or ball toss.\n\nAnd here’s a list of don’ts — be sure to follow them:\n\n» Don’t chase your puppy if they don’t respond. Practice on-lead for now or\n\nuse a long line to give them more freedom to explore.\n\n» Don’t call for negative interaction. Do you have to brush, bathe, or isolate your puppy? If so, don’t use Come. Also, avoid using it when you’re angry. You’ll only freak your puppy out.\n\n» Don’t repeatedly call or discipline your puppy when they run away. I know the frustration of marching around in the middle of a cold, wet, rainy night looking for your puppy, but if you call or discipline your puppy, you’re only teaching them to run from you.\n\n» Don’t discipline your puppy when they return to you. They won’t come\n\nOnce your puppy recognizes that the word “Nope” means stop whatever their doing, you can begin to practice it around distractions. Use it on your walks and when adventuring on the freedom line. If, say, you instruct Follow and your puppy sticks their head in a bush, say “Nope,” tug the line, and then remind them again to Follow. If you call your puppy on the freedom line and they give you one of the Looks — the In-a-Minute look, for example — say “Nope,” tug the line, and call them again — remembering to look to the ground or call them as you run in the other direction!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 238, "chunk_index": 281, "id": "587fd438-8460-4062-85ff-bd047af017b1", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "Continue to reinforce all your puppy’s manners by using Sit throughout the day and in a variety of situations, from greetings to an automatic response when your puppy wants a toy, pat, or meal. This direction is the human phrase equivalent of saying “please.” Give the direction once in a clear, strong voice. If your puppy ignores you, don’t be afraid to walk closer to them and say it again. Sit is not optional.\n\nContinue to work on the Down direction even in situations where lying down might be the furthest thing from your puppy’s mind. The Down pose forces relax- ation, which your puppy may not want so much as need throughout their day. Initially use food to urge your puppy’s cooperation in distracting areas, slowly phasing out rewards as your puppy is more reliably listening to you. For tips on learning this cue, flip to the sequencing section of Chapter 11.\n\nWhen your puppy begins cooperating, use Down for everything, such as before treating (hold the treat to the ground and direct Down) and before dinner (cover the bowl with your hand and, as you put it down, say “Down”).\n\nTo teach your puppy Leave It at a distance and out in the real world, set up six to ten different situations — a maximum of one or two for each day, as this lesson is stressful. Work inside before you set up an outdoor distraction.\n\nIndoors, put your puppy on their leash and have someone secretly place a tissue or another temptation on the floor in a neighboring room. (This is your prop.) Follow these steps and pay attention to timing:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 239, "chunk_index": 282, "id": "89f290df-f032-4d4c-9761-58122d994a52", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "1. Put your puppy on their collar/harness, and then bring them to your side and casually walk toward the prop.\n\n2. The second your puppy alerts to the prop, say “Leave it” in a strong, calm voice as you side step to the right of the object.\n\nYour puppy has a built-in antenna system: their ears. If their ears perk up in the direction of the prop, they’re alerting to it. When teaching Leave It, watch your puppy’s ears. Say “Leave it” the moment your puppy notices the tempta- tion, issuing a quick leash tug if they continue to eye it.\n\n3. Now, the fun part: Scold at the prop — point at it, tap it with your toe, and say “Bad, bad tissue!”, similar to telling a toddler that the stove is hot. Do not, however, look at your puppy. By warning the puppy with Leave It and correcting the object, your puppy will fear the object — not you.\n\n4. Step back from the prop and remind puppy to Leave it as you walk on. Direct your puppy to a toy or reward them with treats and attention after you’ve moved away from the bad, bad tissue.\n\n5. Walk by the prop several times to ensure that your puppy got the message.\n\nGive (also known as “Kindly release what’s in your mouth now”) is a vitally important direction to get at a distance. Parents can instruct a puppy to give a toy to the kids even from across the yard, and puppies can be encouraged to release things even from afar.\n\nTo get this distance control down, work your puppy on their freedom line and practice during playtime:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 240, "chunk_index": 283, "id": "c23db243-01a3-4212-ab6b-8f78f7d14da7", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "1. Get multiples of an identical toy, like a tennis ball. 2. Toss one for your dog 3. When they have the ball, show them that you have the same one. 4. Instead of reaching for the toy in their mouth, shake and bounce your toy as you wait for the puppy to release the one they’re holding. 5. As they are releasing the object, say “Give,” as you toss the copy.\n\nNow practice inside when your puppy is holding a toy or a bone:\n\n1. Stand three to ten feet from your puppy when they’re holding or playing with a toy or chewing a bone.\n\n2. Show them a food reward, and then say “Give.” 3. The moment they release, say “Find it!” as you toss the food bit over to the left so they need to get up to get it.\n\nYou can choose to toss the toy for them or just let them resume chewing.\n\nLife is very different for a puppy once their hormones start flowing: It’s a fact of life. Personal space becomes an issue, and so does sexual status, whether or not you choose to neuter them (which, hopefully, you will — see Chapter 17). Though there won’t be any #MeToo movement in the dog world any time soon, the days of your puppy’s innocent groveling, chin-licking exuberance, greet-anything- that-moves-and-hope-they-like-me activities are long behind them. In their place come many of the adult mannerisms that will stick with them throughout their lifetime. Fortunately, you still have some influence on how they will get along with other people and with dogs. This section tells you what you need to know.\n\nYour puppy will not only feel different during this stage of maturity — but will also smell different. Of course, you and I might not notice, but other dogs are another story. It’s a time of heavy sniffing — your puppy will be like a debutant at the new ball of life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 241, "chunk_index": 284, "id": "aad8b39b-a476-4ad1-af8e-862b9e324808", "word_count": 327, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 425 } }, { "page_content": "Though it’s an exciting time to be a puppy, it’s also a very impressionable time. Surround your puppy with fair-minded, well-socialized companions. (Age mat- ters less than comfortable social skills here; experience with a variety of dogs is ideal to ensure that your puppy is comfortable with all dogs.) When introducing your puppy to a new dog off-leash, approach the other dog and engage with them to show your puppy your comfort level with the new dog.\n\nIt may take up to ten minutes for two unfamiliar dogs to find common ground, especially if they’re dissimilar in age or size. You can facilitate interaction with a toy or by running around like another dog, to whom they may both give chase. If your puppy overwhelms a new companion, separate them before the other dog lashes out.\n\nKeep the following words at the ready when encounters occur:\n\n» Gentle: Use a word like gentle as you facilitate interactions with your off-leash puppy. When it’s said in a calming voice, you may use soft touches to separate your puppy if you feel they’re playing too rough.\n\n» Away: This word directs your puppy away from a dog, especially when that\n\ndog’s body cues are communicating that they have had enough interaction for one day (averted eyes, tail, and posture down, with lip curling or a growling sound).\n\nUse your puppy’s favorite treats or treat cup to call them over to you and away from the other dog. Though you should never overuse this direction, practice calling them two or three times and, when possible, letting them return to the fun immediately so that Come isn’t perceived as a dead end. » Sit: Every three to five minutes, interrupt your puppy’s play and instruct Sit to", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 242, "chunk_index": 285, "id": "dd035b34-17d4-46d7-b550-c8c32c054e02", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "ensure that, friend or no friend, they always check in with you.\n\nChapter 13 Striving for Off-Lead Control: 9 Months to 1 Year\n\nWhen I was growing up, the understanding was that dogs aged seven\n\nyears to every human year: It was simple math that I loved to practice on just about every dog I met. Since then, however, the equations have gotten a little more complicated. It turns out that puppies mature a lot during their first couple of years and then slow down considerably as they grow older. A quick search online (type “age equivalents in dogs”) will show the lifespan of a dog and their age equivalent, which varies even more, depending on your puppy’s size. Suffice it to say that simple math won’t help you here.\n\nThe good news for you is that all the drama of your puppy’s growth and emotional development should pass in a year instead of the decades it takes human kids to grow up. If you’ve done your work together as outlined in the other training chapters of Part 3, you’ll be able to communicate with your puppy using the words they know and routines that should be habituated by this stage. If you’re jumping into the book here, flip back to Chapters 10 and 11 to start your lessons off on the right paw!\n\nMagic happens if you routinely train your puppy through the various stages of learning. In addition to watching your puppy’s awareness grow, you will witness habits take form. Your puppy sits at the door because that’s what they’ve always done; they ring a bell when they need to potty, because that’s just the order of events, they drop the ball, fetch a toy when greeting, whip their head around when you call because it’s, well, that’s just how life works. It’s how it’s always been.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 242, "chunk_index": 286, "id": "72ca616c-d2f2-4231-8d8c-52af016a79fa", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "You can’t overestimate the pleasure of living with a well-trained dog. In Chapters 10 and 11, I cover the first steps of training for puppies. Start there and master those exercises before you begin the ones described below.\n\nWhether your goal is to have your puppy off-lead around the home or to be responsive when you’re on a hike at a park (check the rules to ensure that you’re allowed to take your dog off-leash in a public area), the most considered question is, “How will I know when my puppy and I are ready for off-lead-control train- ing?” Well, there’s no magic age or season or day; readiness is something you gauge by experience. If you practice giving these directions and your pup shows signs of stress (such as licking their lips, hyperactivity, nipping or roughly jump- ing at you, chewing on their freedom lines), they’ve given you a signal to lower your expectations for now. Puppies show readiness with concentrated eye contact and responsiveness that’s quick and cooperative. A puppy has their timetable for preparedness: Off-lead work requires impulse control that emerges anytime between the ages of 6 and 18 months. Read on to get started.\n\nTraining off the leash requires that both you and your puppy be mentally prepared for the challenges you’ll face. Get your game face on, and then prepare your pup.\n\nTo have off-lead control, you must be confident that your puppy will listen. If you’re a bundle of nerves when you let go of the leash, your puppy will know it and\n\nwill become anxious and unresponsive. Puppies, like people, are drawn to confidence, so you need to act with authority and self-assurance even if you have to fake it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 244, "chunk_index": 287, "id": "c7431726-c5b6-49a2-893c-cd7b7dffbc1d", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "As you work toward off-lead control, don’t get too bold too quickly. When the leash disappears, both you and your puppy will feel a little disoriented. Praise, rewards, and confident direction will keep your puppy’s attention focused on you. If you begin to chase them or repeat yourself, your puppy will make their own decisions, and if at that moment they don’t want to Come and they’re free to run, you may be standing there helpless. Off-lead control means continually reading and rereading your puppy — especially in the beginning — and being aware that your puppy is also learning about you. To have control, you must look like a con- fident parent so that your dog can trust your judgment.\n\nTo further your mental preparation, keep these three suggestions in mind:\n\n» Stay cool. Frustration makes you look foolish. As you work toward off-lead control, your puppy may act confused and unresponsive because your guidance is gone. You used to give the direction and guide them with the lead. Now you don’t, and it feels awkward to them. Whatever your pup’s reaction, stay cool. Any attempts at discipline add to their confusion. Jazz up your body language and use some pep talks to encourage them to stay focused on whatever you’re doing.\n\n» Stay focused. You want your puppy to grow up thinking their activities", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 245, "chunk_index": 288, "id": "35bcd137-a363-46fe-b64f-b7ade68c2fb7", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "revolves around whatever you’re doing, not the other way around. If your puppy can turn your day upside down by stealing a sock from the laundry basket, or toilet paper from the bathroom, or muffins off the counter, then you’re the one living in the dog house! Sure, most puppies will try to get all the attention by doing things that get you riled up, but aim to be a calm voice of reason and redirection. Work in a confined area or let your puppy drag a freedom line so that you can ignore or redirect your puppy when they act up.\n\n» Allow one step back for two steps forward. Your puppy is responding beautifully off-lead . . . until someone rings the doorbell, a chipmunk runs across the driveway, or another dog comes trotting past the gate. Then everything they’ve learned goes out the window and you’re back to being ignored. Let me tell you a secret: Off-lead control takes time. If your puppy is good but is still having trouble in a stimulating situation, review on-lead exercises in distracting environments. (See Chapter 12.) Using a freedom line helps control the situation and at the same time conditions more appropriate behavior.\n\nSo, what goes into making your pup mentally ready? Maturity serves your off-lead goals well. As your puppy passes into doghood, you’ll note calm predictability. Wanderlust and mischief will have most likely lost their thrill. Your dog’s joy will manifest itself in silent teamwork and shared activities. The stages your puppy follows to maturity aren’t so different from the ages and stages of a child growing into adulthood.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 245, "chunk_index": 289, "id": "3c847863-bc39-4fab-a3b4-9062aa0a2833", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Consider your puppy’s breed instincts when working toward off-lead reliability. For example, a terrier, who was bred to follow their hunting instincts indepen- dently, is far less impressed with your direction than a Shetland sheepdog, who lives for the camaraderie and guidance of a shepherd. Hounds and Nordic breeds are other pups who must be monitored closely because their instincts can override your direction. Do some research to discover whether your puppy’s breed was bred to work in concert with people or to work independently. Independent thinkers may need more persuasion to focus. (A clicker and some food can work wonders.) With an independent thinker, understand that 100 percent reliability may not be a realistic goal.\n\nBuying the Right Equipment — and Using It Correctly\n\nAs you work toward off-lead obedience, you’ll practice exercises that extend your control over greater and greater distances. Before you start, however, you should round up the following items (each of which is discussed in more detail later in this section):\n\n» Retractable leash: The retractable leash is invaluable for advanced\n\n» Indoor freedom line: This item is a light, 4-foot leash worn around the house. » Finger lead: This lead, shown in Figure 13-1, should be long enough to gently guide but short enough not to distract your dog (1 to 6 inches is a common length).\n\n» Tether-n-train: This type of leash, with a clip on each end (see Figure 13-2) teaches your pup to walk beside you. You can also use this leash outside to tether your puppy to an immovable object (such as a tree or bench) to practice distance Stay directions. See the later section “_Tether and Train_” for more details.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 246, "chunk_index": 290, "id": "c2fcec77-9e0c-49ce-840a-2e4becc052af", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "FIGURE 13-1: Bridge to off-lead cooperation with a short leash that you can use to gently direct your puppy to your side.\n\nFIGURE 13-2: Tethering helps teach your puppy to Stay outside.\n\n» Outdoor freedom line: Purchase or make a light 25- to 50-foot line to allow\n\n» Walking freedom line: This light 5-foot line can be used to teach your puppy to walk at your side. It also suffices for an indoor dragging leash if your puppy acts up when given too much freedom.\n\nAttach any dragging lines you use to your puppy’s buckle collar or harness — never to a head collar or choking collar.\n\nOff-lead puppies don’t develop overnight. Training is a step-by-step process. Use your new equipment to increase your puppy’s focus, but don’t get itchy fingers. Just because they behave well on their retractable leash one day doesn’t mean they’re ready for an off-lead romp the next. Take your time. Even though I explain how to train with each piece of equipment separately, you can use them inter- changeably to vary your puppy’s routine to keep them interested, engaged, and on their toes!\n\nA retractable leash is an excellent tool for distance training when you’re working alone in an open environment. However, that’s the only time I ever recommend its use as it gets easily tangled around objects, people, and other pets. This lead allows your pup limited freedom to explore while enabling you to enforce direc- tions the moment you give them. You can use the retractable leash as a training tool to reinforce the following directions:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 247, "chunk_index": 291, "id": "f66898dc-d6b1-4790-b367-3d37da2c51d3", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "» [Name]. Call your puppy’s name enthusiastically. If they look at you, praise\n\nthem. That’s all that’s required — just a glance. If they ignore you, you need to either turn and run away from them or tug the leash and then then look at the ground, acting as though you’re calling them for a good reason. Praise them after you have their attention.\n\n» Wait. Use Wait to get your puppy to check in with you during walks. Begin when your puppy is 3 feet in front of you and then extend to 6 feet, 8 feet, 12 feet, 16 feet, and 26 feet in front of you. If your puppy passes the line you have set and continues forward, press the Stop button and remind your puppy: “Wait.”\n\n» Stay. \"Stay\" and \"Wait\" differ in two ways: duration and your focus. Wait says stop, look, and listen for my next direction, Stay says relax you’re going to be here a while. To bone up on Stay, using your retractable leash increase your distance incrementally. (To accustom your puppy to the pull of the retractable leash, pivot in front of them and slide the leash out a few times.)\n\n» Follow. Use this direction to call your puppy back to your side. Call their name\n\nand then direct “Follow” as you slap your leg. Praise your puppy as they respond, and then walk a short distance before you stop to release them: “Go Free!”\n\n» Nope. Whenever your puppy’s focusing on something they shouldn’t be concentrating on, say “Leave it” and then redirect them with a familiar direction. Immediately refocus their attention with a toy, a stick, or another direction.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 248, "chunk_index": 292, "id": "067b1aad-dafb-4ace-ae01-ddef3aa831ce", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Use an indoor freedom line to keep an eye on your puppy during high distraction times like kids’ homecomings or parties. Stand by the line and give a direction (Sit, Down, Wait, or Come). If your pup is too preoccupied, you may need to go back a step and lure them into position with food or a favorite toy. Your puppy may have generalized that \"sit\" and \"down\" only count in the kitchen alone. Once you’ve practiced this new out-of-lesson format, phase off luring, lest you become treat dependent. Now if your puppy looks at you, walk closer to their side and repeat the direction. For example, if you give the direction, Down, and your puppy gives you a blank stare, step on the line to stop them, and then repeat both the word cue and the associated hand signal. (For more on hand signals, see Chap- ter 11.) It’s not uncommon to give the directions two or three times when you move from on-leash to off-leash directions. Your patience can help them over- come their off-leash confusion. Praise your dog when they’re cooperating.\n\nAfter your puppy has proven to be reliable on the freedom line, use a short lead to reinforce your stationary directions: Sit, Stay, Down, Wait, Follow, and Come. (Refer to Chapters 11 and 12 for more on these directions.) The short lead adds weight to their collar, reminding them of the security of on-lead direction as well as giving you the ability to guide them calmly if they get confused.\n\nIn addition to using the short lead around the house, do one of their standard les- sons once a day. Bring your puppy into a quiet room and practice a simple direc- tional routine. Initially hold the short lead, but then drop it after you’ve warmed up. Slap your leg and use hand signals and peppy body language to encourage your dog’s focus.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 249, "chunk_index": 293, "id": "af41dbe0-99dd-48d7-93e2-7e93bccecdff", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "When using a leash with clips on both ends (what I call the Tether-n-Train), you use the end clip to secure the leash to a tree so that you can work on distance and out-of-sight Sit and Down-Stay directions. Follow these training steps:\n\n1. Warm up with five minutes of regular on-lead practice. 2. Stop your puppy next to a tree or another stable object you can secure the leash to (as shown in Figure 13-3).\n\nFIGURE 13-3: Secure your puppy to a tree or another immovable object to begin practicing distance commands.\n\n4. After you direct your puppy to “Stay,” walk ten feet away.\n\nExtend your distance as they gain control. Run your fingers through your hair and swing your arms gently back and forth to emphasize that the leash is out of your hands.\n\n5. As your puppy improves, practice a Sit-Stay and duck out of sight, practice Down from a Sit-Stay, or practice a distance Down-Stay.\n\nIf your puppy disobeys, determine whether their response is motivated by anxiety, confusion, or disrespect. If they’re confused or anxious, their posture will shrink, their tail will lower, and both their eyes and ears will flicker distressfully. Don’t issue a correction: Doing so may only create more stress when you’re separated. Calmly return to their side and reposition them gently. Repeat the exercise at close range. If its disrespect, review your role and review earlier lessons to build your partnership.\n\nIf your puppy gets overexcited or breaks from the position when you return, try the walking-in-backward trick. Holding a distance Stay is hard work — many dogs feel stressed when they can’t see you and pop up when you finally return. If this sounds like your situation, walk back to your puppy backward. Wait until you’ve released your puppy from a stay to make eye contact and praise them!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 249, "chunk_index": 294, "id": "54cd6f8c-a452-4ec4-95d6-248e086f0972", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "I introduce the freedom line in Chapter 5, and it’s a staple for off-leash practice. Attach your puppy to a 25- to 50-foot freedom line and let them roam free as you keep a watchful eye on them. I generally leave the leash dragging, though if you’re concerned that your puppy will run off quickly, you can secure the end of it. Engage your puppy by playing with a stick or ball and investigate your\n\nsurroundings together. Avoid giving too many commands. Just hang out and enjoy some free time with your pup. Every five minutes, position yourself near the line and give an enthusiastic but clear direction.\n\nIf you’re issuing a stationary direction, such as Sit, Wait, or Down, stop abruptly as you signal and direct them simultaneously. If you’re issuing a motion direction, such as Come or Follow, run backward as you encourage your puppy toward you. If they race over, help them in the proper position and give them a big hug. If your puppy ignores you, quickly step on the line, as shown in Figure 13-4, and say “Nope.” (Don’t scream; speak sternly.) Redirect and position your dog and praise them enthusiastically. End the session with a favorite game.\n\nFIGURE 13-4: Use a freedom line to work on distance cooperation outside.\n\nDoes your puppy love mealtime? As often as you can, pack their meal into a fanny pack, treat cup or baggie and take them out on their freedom line. Every time they check in with you, say “Come” and give them a handful of kibbles. Now the com- mand Come and your reconnection is associated with praise and food — what could be better than that?", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 250, "chunk_index": 295, "id": "6a900987-b5c0-4fc8-a864-84b9decf38f2", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "When practicing various exercises, you may notice that your puppy is in one of two camps: the excitable explorer camp or the more timid and clingy camp.\n\nNeither is preferable; they are what they are. Both warrant gauging whether your goal is to enjoy this time together. A radically excitable puppy finds it difficult to focus when distractions mount and will likely dart away if not taught better impulse control. On the other hand, a puppy who is nervous when you’re out of sight won’t enjoy the splendor of an off-lead stroll and may react inappropriately to passersby. Keeping your puppy focused on you, regardless of their personality or the situation, is the key to happy off-lead experiences.\n\nSome puppies can’t get enough of life! Social, curious, and outgoing, excitable explorer puppies race about, trying to take in every new stimulus. Before practic- ing an off-lead exercise with your excitable explorer, tire them out a bit. Play games (indoors or out) that don’t require strict conformity to detail. Soda Bottle Soccer and Two-Toy Toss (see Chapter 20) are wonderful options. At first, prac- tice your lessons before your puppy’s meals, using either their kibbles or special treats to enhance their focus and cooperation. A clicker (flip to Chapter 5) can often add a spark to lessons as well. If your puppy is too excited to respond, prac- tice on-lead for half the lesson or return to the basics for a few more weeks.\n\nIf your dog is cautious, they’ll be less inclined to romp when you unclip the leash. Their tail may immediately attach itself to their underside, their ears may pin back, and their eyes may dart around, looking for a familiar place to hide.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 251, "chunk_index": 296, "id": "63a89d5c-eb9f-4d5a-9064-1c85dfdd92ab", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Don’t soothe your timid pup. Act with confidence as though nothing has changed — this reaction will impress your puppy. Until now, their leash has served the same purpose as a child’s security blanket: It created a sense of safety until the moment it disappeared. The goal is to help your puppy have faith in your presence and your direction. Try the following tips to get your pup to have faith in your direction:\n\n» Increase your use of visual hand signals. » Use a treat cup or a click-and-treat combination (provided that the sound of the clicker doesn’t startle your puppy) to alert your puppy and reward their cooperation.\n\n» Respond in ways that pique their curiosity, such as playing with a stick or toy\n\n» Instead of simply unclipping the freedom Line, shorten it by slowly snipping away at it, one inch at a time. Some puppies like the feel of the leash and prefer it to running “naked!”\n\nDo you know that your puppy can read you as well as — or maybe even better than — you can read them? If your timing is off by a hair or your mind is drifting, they’ll notice and may modify their cooperation. If you feel that your puppy’s testing you, you may be on to something, but their resistance is caused less by disrespect than by their interest in learning the rules of this new off-lead game. Practice the lesson only when you can be mindful to detail, and use a freedom line to prevent any mishaps. In case your puppy becomes genuinely out of control, have a few backup plans, such as running to the car, faking a tremendous accident, or shaking a treat cup. Be positive when reunited so that your puppy doesn’t lose faith in your reconnection.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 252, "chunk_index": 297, "id": "69237b82-76cb-41e5-a25c-51785d6a09cc", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Chapters 11 and 12 cover the standard Down direction, but for off-lead safety you need to take it a step further with the emergency Down direction. The emer- gency Down is a high-octane version of the Down direction that’ll have your puppy hitting the dirt mid-pace. It can be a real lifesaver. I used it to stop one of my puppies who broke their Stay to greet my husband, who was walking home across a busy street.\n\nIn the beginning, your puppy may be a little confused, so be patient and positive throughout their training sessions. Don’t start practicing this exercise until your puppy has mastered the Down direction. (See Chapter 11.) To teach your pup the emergency Down, follow these steps:\n\n1. Stand next to your unsuspecting puppy. 2. Suddenly direct “Down” in an urgent tone as you kneel or bend and point toward the ground, as shown in Figure 13-5.\n\nUse the type of tone you’d use if a loved one were about to walk off a cliff.\n\n3. Tap the ground and repeat Down if they look confused. 4. Act like you’re being bombed, too, by kneeling next to your pup.\n\nIf your puppy needs a food lure initially, go ahead and use one, but phase off within five repetitions to avoid treat dependence. Soon, your puppy will catch on. After they do, begin extending your distance from them as you direct “Down” in your most urgent tone.\n\nFIGURE 13-5: The emergency Down can save your dog’s life.\n\nIt’s true — the emergency Down really does save lives. Once I was leaving my training classes with my husky, Kyia, when a tennis ball slipped loose and started rolling toward the road. Kyia, the sweet thing, wanted to help and ran innocently to collect it. In a panic, I shouted “Down!” and she dropped like a rock. What a good girl!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 253, "chunk_index": 298, "id": "e05fc86e-53ab-4a98-b8f5-bdc3716faec7", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "The emergency Down exercise is very stressful. Limit your practice to one out-of- the-blue emergency Down sequence a day.\n\nKnowing When to Trust Your Pup and Other FAQs about Off-Lead Training\n\nBefore I address frequently asked questions about off-lead training (OLT) let me warn you: It takes only one mistake to lose your puppy. Many things can happen: your puppy may get confused, or see a friend, or see a squirrel, child, or cat. Many young dogs test their people’s reactions by turning into an instant comedian and bounding away from you just for fun. So practice all initial training in an enclosed area. Keep the situation safe until they’re both mature and reliable. It is never wise to walk a dog near a roadway off leash: don’t do it, no matter how confident you are in your puppy’s reliability.\n\nYou may be wondering many things about OLT at this point. Here’s a list of ques- tions that I’m asked most often:\n\n» When will I know I can trust my dog off-lead? You should feel it. This road is never smooth in the beginning; some days you get a quick and happy response; other days feel more like your first lessons together. Stay cool, though — frustration is a sign of weakness, and you can quickly lose your dog’s respect. You’ll gradually notice your dog’s hesitation diminish. They’ll respond happily and without consideration, and you’ll get a fluid feeling that they enjoy being near you and listening to you. Until this point, keep your puppy in an enclosed area or dragging a freedom line as you practice so that if they start to act cocky, you can retreat immediately. And don’t hesitate to go back to the freedom line or on-lead exercises for a quick review.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 254, "chunk_index": 299, "id": "ddee6084-3fe3-43c2-aa25-010dd5ee4cf6", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "» I get so frustrated when my puppy ignores me that I sometimes feel like hitting them. Is it ever okay to hit them? Feeling like hitting is fine. Hitting them isn’t. If you hit your dog, you erode your relationship and diminish their off-lead trust. If you’re really angry, walk away calmly. Remember, a graceful retreat is not a failure.\n\n» My puppy breaks every time I leave them in a Stay on their retractable leash. What can I do? Make sure they’re okay with the pull of the leash-pivot in front of them, and then walk forward and — because they may respond to the tug of the leash — remind them to stay. Then increase your distance slowly. For example, if your puppy gets up every time you walk out 15 feet, practice at 10 feet for a week, and then at 11 feet and 12 feet, and so on. » Sometimes my dog crouches and barks at me. How can I make them stop? Don’t look at them. They’re trying to turn all your hard work into a game. Ignore them until their antics subside. Work on-lead at short distances if they’re uncooperative.\n\n» Don’t the lines get caught around trees and doors? Yes, they do. Clip all\n\nlines to the buckle collar and never leave your puppy unsupervised.\n\n» When I place my puppy on the short lead, I can’t get near them. Should I give it up? You need to work on your freedom line for another week or so. When you try the short lead again, put it on with the freedom line and correct them by stepping on it when they dart away.\n\nIf you meet up with an off-lead dog, stay calm. Tensions can get misconstrued, prompt- ing two otherwise peaceful dogs to tussle. Here’s what to expect:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 255, "chunk_index": 300, "id": "8296c09b-4ceb-421f-8ea9-d09e2986efce", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Normal greeting: When meeting for the first time, it’s normal for dogs to posture considerably, which may include raised hackles or a raised tail or jumping, pawing, growling, staring, or mouthing. When two dogs meet in an open space, they’ll gen- erally race at an angle to one another and circle, assessing who should organize the interaction. After they’ve established their roles, the dogs will get along unless human interference stresses the situation.\n\nAbnormal greeting: Dogs don’t charge directly at one another unless they’re pre- paring to fight. A face-to-face, chest-to-chest, direct-eye-contact approach is friendly only if you’re a person — dogs view it as an attack. Dogs generally attack one another only if they’re defending their young or protecting their territory. When this type of confrontation occurs, the only hope may be for the other dog to lie still in complete submission or turn and run away, which may or may not happen. If you have any control over the outcome, leave immediately.\n\nA well-behaved dog is a welcome social guest, a plus at parades and picnics, and an added fan at after-school sporting events. The pleasures of having a well-mannered puppy who matures into a wonderful, responsive dog are undeni- able! So, why does the world have so many ill-mannered dogs — dogs who jump and bark at the door, have accidents, and chew their families’ belongings? The answer is straightforward and simple: because no one took the time to teach them how to behave — inside their home or out. Don’t worry: I won’t let that happen to you!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 256, "chunk_index": 301, "id": "2491e256-7684-461e-87f8-c2f9b6402b30", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "The key to etiquette training is to set your goals and share them with family and friends — and even with strangers who interact with your pup. Think of this last training chapter of Part 3 as sending your puppy off to Miss Sarah’s School of Dog Etiquette, which is a short-term course with long-term freedoms and rewards.\n\nTo develop the all-important canine consciousness, you must do two things:\n\n» Decide what you want when you give a direction. » Follow through — if your expectations are unclear, your puppy’s reaction will\n\nWhen debuting that almost-grown puppy of yours, follow these five essential rules:\n\n1. Make sure your puppy is familiar and comfortable with the setting before you attempt to introduce them to anyone. Don’t greet people your first day out.\n\n2. Before each introduction, insist that your puppy stand still at your side. Gently hold still or bring them back to your side and instruct “Wait.”\n\n3. Tell admirers “We’re in training.” This statement will help them respect your efforts and contain their excitement (hopefully).\n\n4. Stay more focused on your puppy than on the admirer. Insist that your puppy use good manners before you let them approach a new dog or person. 5. Put faith in your knowledge. Just because everyone has advice doesn’t mean they’re right. “I don’t mind if they jump” doesn’t hold water. You mind if they jump, so don’t give in.\n\nUnder and back: Helpful commands when you’re out and about\n\nHave you ever marveled at the sight of a dog lying patiently under the table or their human’s legs? It’s calming on all fronts because the dog is at peace knowing that the person is safe and in charge. Fortunately for you, it couldn’t be easier to teach your pup this skill.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 256, "chunk_index": 302, "id": "c16580a7-9762-4d30-a246-6f39639160d6", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy wants to rely on someone who has a better idea of what’s going on in the world; dogs are just not equipped to understand our society and the oh-so- very-long list of dangers that abound. Whether resting at home, with company, or in town at a cafe, your pup will feel most secure when tucked safely under your legs. (See Figure 13-6.)\n\nTo get this result, teach your pup the Under command, which calms them and helps them feel secure in social situations:\n\n1. Sit on the edge of a chair with your legs bent in front of you. 2. Wave a treat to lure your puppy. 3. Lead them under your legs and say “Under,” rewarding them and petting them with soothing, loving strokes.\n\n4. Direct your puppy to Stay and give them a bone to chew or toy to play with.\n\nFIGURE 13-6: Teaching Under helps your puppy feel safe when you’re out and about.\n\nAnother direction, Back, teaches your puppy to back up and get behind your feet. This direction is ideal for outings and social greetings, where their enthusiasm may override their focus. To bait them with a treat, draw it back directly under their chin and guide their body behind you.\n\nMeeting people doesn’t have to be a hair-raising experience. If your puppy is good on the leash, knows their directions, and is friendly, you have what you need to introduce your pooch to strangers.\n\nBefore you venture into the social scene, though, read over the following disclo- sures. If any of these possibilities applies to you, follow my specific instructions and skip the rest of this section:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 257, "chunk_index": 303, "id": "6baf632c-238c-46c1-b758-ad6a948ae197", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "» If your puppy is aggressive: If your puppy is having aggression problems, the\n\nonly person you should introduce your puppy to for now is a trainer or behaviorist with a specialty in aggression rehabilitation. How do you find such an expert? Ask your veterinarian. It’s better to be safe than sued.\n\n» If your puppy is nervous: If you notice your puppy getting nervous or tense around unfamiliar people, join a class or work under private supervision. Don’t push the issue alone.\n\n» If you’re insecure: If you don’t believe that you have what it takes to train your puppy, you won’t. Confidence is contagious, but so is a lack of it. Hire some extra help if you need the support.\n\nHow you handle introducing your puppy depends on none other than your puppy. If your puppy is overly enthusiastic and wild, you need to tame their expressive- ness. Keeping them focused on you is the key.\n\nAsk people to wait until your wild one is calm before they approach. Enforce a Sit-Stay at your side. Use treats to toss on the ground (playing Find It) so that your puppy learns a new habit when greeting people — looking down instead of leaping up. Use the term Say Hello (see Chapter 10) to encourage your puppy to lean into people versus approaching them head-on. Remind your puppy to Stay and don’t let up on your vigil until the person is gone. Whew! What a workout.\n\nWhen introducing a scaredy-cat, ask the greeter to wait until you and your puppy are in position. Teach your puppy the Back command, as outlined earlier in this chapter, to let them know you’re in charge, and place them in a Sit-Stay. Kneel at their side and, if you can muster a free hand, take the person’s hand. Let your puppy sniff the two together. If they won’t keep their head up, lift it for them as you gently rub their chest.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 258, "chunk_index": 304, "id": "1f412c3d-6347-43e4-808c-1c79f037cd51", "word_count": 328, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 426 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy is a little cautious when people approach, before you start, place some treats in your pocket (or, if your puppy likes peanut butter, bring some along) and play Find It, tossing the treats down as the admirer approaches you.\n\nPick a building that you plan to visit with your puppy, such as the veterinarian’s office, the pet shop, or your kids’ school. Your puppy’s behavior in those buildings depends on their self-control when entering the building. If your puppy’s wild, bursting through the door and scanning the room to see who they might jump on first, you’re doomed. Instead, follow these steps.\n\nAfter you’ve selected a building, approach it with your puppy on-leash and follow these steps:\n\n1. Bring your puppy to your side as you exit the car.\n\nAs your puppy exits the car, gather their leash and call their name. Kneel down, say “Shh” to calm them and play “Find It” to get your puppy focused on you.\n\n2. Pause before you open the door and direct “Wait.” 3. Don’t open the door until they’re settled enough to be sitting patiently. Pause again until your puppy is calm.\n\n4. Say “Okay” as you lead them through the door. 5. After you’re inside, direct your puppy under your legs or onto a mat positioned at your side and encourage them to Settle.\n\n6. Give them a bone to help them displace their excitement.\n\nSome dogs are nervous when they enter new buildings. If your puppy is, bring them to your side and show confidence. Bring high-value treats and play Find It as you walk to the building from your car. After you get to where you are going, place your mat by your feet and direct them to their “Place.” If you’ll have to wait, consider a high value chew to entertain your puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 259, "chunk_index": 305, "id": "afc36597-dd4e-468d-beed-62669b4a795e", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "Making Friends: Introducing Your Pup to Other Dogs\n\nA well-socialized puppy makes friends wherever they can. Meeting other dogs and puppies will top their list of priorities. However, you need to teach them impulse control or else they may dart headlong into traffic or rush an unfriendly candidate.\n\nBefore you rush up to every dog you see, stop and ask yourself whether the dog is friendly and the people are open to greeting. If you think they are, gain control of your puppy to ensure that the interaction goes smoothly. Do not approach dogs who are barking, jumping, or out of control: This type of dog is overwhelming to both dogs and people.\n\nBefore approaching a friendly, well-mannered dog, gain control of the situation by following these steps:\n\n1. If your puppy acts excited, bring them Back and encourage them to Wait. 2. Ask the person to wait to approach you until after your puppy has calmed down.\n\n3. After you have your puppy under control, you can permit a greeting by saying, “Okay, go play.”\n\n4. When playtime is over, instruct your puppy to Follow and move on. 5. Use rewards and praise to encourage them to leave the other dog alone and focus on you. 6. Keep working on it.\n\nGetting your puppy in control around new dogs and people can take a while.\n\nPuppies love playdates as much as kids do! If your friend or neighbor has a dog- friendly dog or another puppy and you want to get the dogs together to play, try to organize a first meeting at a neutral location, such as an empty playground or field. (Doing so prevents territorial reactions.) When possible, give both dogs freedom to interact on a freedom line (see Chapter 5), because choking up on a short leash can prompt containment aggression.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 260, "chunk_index": 306, "id": "1e6bb84b-b379-4ad3-9132-eb9f4cc3ec8b", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "When they first meet, you may see some rough interaction in the form of play, or you may witness dominance displays such as growling, mouthing, and mounting. Don’t freak out or choke up on your lead. This behavior is natural, and your inter- ference often prompts a fight. Stay calm, but observe closely. The dogs must determine a hierarchy. After that’s accomplished, they’ll play and have fun on their own. If you’re certain that a fight has begun, separate them with the leashes. Don’t handle fighting dogs.\n\nIf you’re approached by an off-lead dog, don’t hesitate, don’t look at the dog, and don’t let your puppy look at the dog. Just walk quickly away from the area. Dis- courage any confrontational attempts your puppy makes. Both of you should avoid eye contact. An off-lead dog defends their territory. However, if you leave without confrontation, they’ll stop the chase immediately to harbor their fighting reserves for a more threatening foe.\n\nI’ll let you in on a secret: Veterinarians love a well-behaved dog. It makes their job a lot easier. To impress your vet, follow these steps:\n\n1. Bring your puppy’s favorite chew toy in case you have to wait, because your\n\n2. Take charge the moment your puppy hops out of the car. Direct “Follow” as\n\nyou walk to the door and “Wait” after you get there.\n\n3. If you must wait to see the vet, direct your puppy under your legs (“Under”) or at your side (“Back to me\") on a mat. Give them a bone to chew and tell them to “Stay.”\n\n4. Instruct “Wait” at the threshold of the examination room to keep them calm", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 261, "chunk_index": 307, "id": "6e288d9f-3f81-46db-b7b4-1b8faf1ba61d", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "5. Place your puppy’s mat on the examination table to calm them, which, in\n\nSome puppies aren’t wild about receptionists and aren’t too impressed by the veterinar- ian, either. Set up a practice run and ask the receptionist to meet you outside with your puppy’s treat cup. (See Chapter 11.) Ask the person to avoid making eye contact with your puppy. If your puppy is tense, avoid confrontation. If your puppy wants to approach, have the receptionist reward them with treats.\n\nHousetraining lessons everyone can master — including\n\nFortunately, there are a lot of similarities between toilet training a kid and\n\nhouse-training a puppy. Both like to leave their living spaces to potty and prioritize privacy. By using many of the same techniques, like scheduling activities and feeding schedules, you’ll teach your puppy to go to an area of your choosing on an absorbent surface of your choice to potty. With a plan and a heavy dose of patience, house-training your puppy is just a matter of time.\n\nWhen possible, plan your puppy’s homecoming around your vacation time. This initial bonding-and-training period is an ideal way to kick off your life together!\n\nIf house-training worries you, this chapter will help. Even though it’s a project that requires consistency and cooperation, it is, by all means, doable. Lay out a plan before the homecoming, if possible, or, if your puppy’s still having accidents, try this fresh approach. In this chapter, I’ll establish ground rules and a schedule you can apply no matter where your puppy is in the house-training process.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 262, "chunk_index": 308, "id": "8a085c20-8f7b-4437-a166-3b72b355f84b", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "Stay positive! Your attitude will make or break this process. A proactive and posi- tive approach will ease your puppy’s misunderstanding. If you let frustration creep in, however, your tension will stress your puppy out: Corrections teach your puppy to avoid you when they need to potty, both inside and out.\n\nThe first step in house-training your puppy is to choose the elimination area. Your goal is to teach them to leave their living spaces to go to the bathroom, so decide whether you want that place to be indoors or outdoors. Papers should be neatly arranged in the far corner of a room or pen, away from food and water dishes and gradually shimmied to an out-of-the-way bathroom or mudroom where your adult dog will go for privacy. Outdoors, choose the surface first: Do you want your puppy going on mulch, grass, or pavement, for example? Once that’s decided, choose or create a place by putting down, say, mulch — initially just 10 to 20 feet from the door to help your puppy stay focused on the goal of your outings. Take your puppy to the toilet area on a 6-foot leash and wait until they potty to pet, play, or walk them.\n\nBecause eliminating puts puppies in a vulnerable position, privacy is best. Choose a spot that is discrete, whether indoors or outdoors. Like people, dogs don’t like to potty out in the open, nor should they get in the habit of wandering about to find their ideal elimination spot.\n\nAlthough I find training a dog to go outside makes the most long-term sense, city people often have to start out with paper training until their puppy has received their vaccines. You may also want to choose paper training over taking your dog outside if you have a small dog or an indoor lifestyle. Whatever you choose, many of the same rules apply:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 266, "chunk_index": 309, "id": "5bcf7577-1a8e-42fb-ac52-666d877eb4ef", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "» Consistently use the same bathroom spot (inside or out). » Say a word or phrase — such as “Go outside” or “Papers” — when you lead\n\n» After you bring your pup to the area, ignore them until they eliminate. » While your puppy is eliminating, say a word or phrase such as “Get busy.” » Don’t use the potty place or papers for play or interaction.\n\nYou may wonder whether you can cross-train: Have your puppy pee inside when the paper is present but go outside when it’s not. This scenario is ideal for working parents or for zones that are hit with extreme weather patterns. (House-training a husky in the middle of winter may not present problems, but getting your teacup Chihuahua to pid- dle in subzero frost just isn’t going to happen.)\n\nThis cross-training option is slightly more challenging for your pup to comprehend, but any routine can be learned as long as you’re consistent. Just be clear on your expectations — that they potty on paper when you’re out of the house or during inclement weather and outside at all other times. Here are some suggestions for cross-training:\n\nEstablish a routine for going outside when you’re home and in all but extreme weather.\n\nGet your puppy to ring a bell to alert you when they need to go (see the section “Helping Your Pup Communicate Their Need to Go,” later in this chapter), and rou- tinely take them to a predetermined spot near the door or exit.\n\nWhen you’re not home, secure your puppy in a small room or playpen with papers or pads. Calmly remove the pads when you return home, clean them in front of your puppy to reinforce eliminating in the right place, and then return to business as usual. Keep your puppy confined near you if they try to venture off to potty elsewhere in the house.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 266, "chunk_index": 310, "id": "6c5292be-4308-4e40-833b-966947b14dcb", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "During inclement weather, place the papers down in a distant room in your home — preferably, in the garage, mudroom, or hallway or by the exit door. As you approach the area, call “Papers!” and lay them down.\n\nIn Chapter 6, you find out that puppies have five basic needs: to eat, drink, sleep, play, and eliminate. Fortunately, all these needs have a predictable pattern. Your puppy will need to go outside or to their papers to potty after they eat a meal, drink, or wake up from a nap or during long sessions of chewing or playing.\n\nEven though my suggestion that you take your puppy outdoors after each activity sounds like a lot, a very young puppy can’t control their impulses. However, establishing a routine early on can cement their understanding of “holding it” until they reach their potty place.\n\nYour puppy will catch on quickly if you’re consistent with a house-training rou- tine. After you’ve selected the potty area (discussed in the earlier section “Picking Your Puppy’s Potty Place”), follow these guidelines:\n\n» Take your puppy to potty with a cue. Routine is important, so consistently take your puppy to potty after they come out of their crate, wake up from a nap, or finish playing, chewing, eating, or drinking. (Times vary, depending on the age of your puppy.) Say a word cue like “Papers” or “Outside” as you walk to the specified area. Try to use the same route each time so that your puppy gets used to the routine. (See Figure 14-1 for an example.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 267, "chunk_index": 311, "id": "98067984-e174-4169-b85f-7a2e938f1f51", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "» Stay calm. With puppies, it’s important that you always remain neutral as you navigate them to their potty area. Overexcited greetings or delight may promptly shift their focus to play instead of pottying. Withhold your attention until after pottying to motivate their cooperation, and keep it calm to avoid riling up your puppy. Keep your puppy focused on the routine of getting to their area and going to the bathroom before you greet, reward, or play with them. All good things come to puppies who potty!\n\n» Keep still. When you arrive at the potty spot, either place your puppy in a pen or keep them on a leash. Hold off on letting your puppy play or wander until they have done their business. Stay near your home or apartment until your puppy has finished their eliminations: Remember, a human parent would never toilet-train a child by sending theirs to the neighbors to potty.\n\nIf you have a small dog or young puppy, encourage them to walk themselves to the area. It’s all about muscle memory — they need to navigate to the area so that they’ll remember where to go. If they’re struggling with stairs, flip to Chapter 10 for a quick lesson on stair navigation.\n\n» Potty cue! While your puppy is positioning themselves to eliminate, use a\n\ndirection like “Get busy” so that they learn to go when directed to do so. After a month of saying this phrase as your puppy is beginning to pee or poop, they should go when prompted.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 268, "chunk_index": 312, "id": "27a36f82-1912-4ce5-b2fb-a6fe424b158a", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "» Consider a potty marker. Some people find success using treats to reward house-training, while others find that their puppy soon learns to go more frequently to get more rewards. To test whether food rewards will speed up the process, use a word or sound marker to highlight the moments your puppy poops or pees. Wait until they’re almost finished to click (see Chapter 5) or say \"Yes.\" Follow each marker with a food reward.\n\n» Rewards for going. After your puppy is done eliminating, greet, praise, and\n\nFIGURE 14-1: Follow the same path to your puppy’s potty area because consistency breeds understanding.\n\nIf your puppy doesn’t eliminate within 5 minutes, either carry, crate, leash, or oth- erwise confine them for 5 to 15 minutes before trying again. This step prevents an accident and helps your puppy build the bladder muscles they need to hold it. Whin- ing, nipping, and frenzied activity are all signs that they may need a potty break.\n\nJust how many potty breaks does your puppy need per day? Well, that depends. Young puppies (younger than 12 weeks) may need to go outside every hour or two. Older puppies can hold out quite a bit longer.\n\nUse the general guidelines in Table 14-1 for your puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 268, "chunk_index": 313, "id": "da3a8c58-97a5-4d56-ae56-15c4a7e2185a", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "Based on this table, you need to set up a daily house-training schedule. If you’re home during the day, follow the plan shown in Table 14-2. If you’re out during the day, follow the schedule shown in Table 14-3. As you go through this schedule, you may remember what I mention in Chapter 6: Dogs are crepuscular — most awake at dawn and dusk and restful during the rest of the day. Your puppy may need to go outside every 30 minutes to an hour in the early morning (depending on their eating, drinking, and playing routines) and then only once or twice dur- ing the stretch between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. All puppies are different — keep a log to help you recognize patterns.\n\nNote: In Tables 14-2 and 14-3, the italicized events may not be necessary as your puppy matures.\n\nA puppy younger than 12 weeks has little to no bladder control, so you’ll be taking them out quite frequently during the daytime. Occasional accidents are not uncommon during this time, so don’t be discouraged. (See the section “Quick Tips for Handling and Avoiding Accidents,” later in this chapter.) As your puppy matures, they’ll have the bladder control to hold it as well as the awareness to let you know when they need to go potty.\n\nDogs of all ages need interaction between the times listed in the tables, so remem- ber that playtimes are extremely important throughout the day. If you work outside the home, try to come home for lunch or hire a dog walker to split up your dog’s day.\n\nMost puppies need to eliminate after isolation; if you find your puppy uninterested in a meal, take them outside for a quick bathroom run before each feeding.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 269, "chunk_index": 314, "id": "a5e42002-116f-4504-af01-49f5a0700f40", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "A puppy cannot hold their bladder all day — few dogs can, either. If you have to leave for more than four hours, either drop your puppy off at a daycare center, hire a dog walker to stop in at midday, or create a space that allows for a good stretch as well as a place to potty. Though your puppy might be confused at first by your expectation that they potty inside on paper and outside when you’re with them, they will adjust to the routine as long as you’re consistent.\n\nIf you find that your puppy can’t hold their urine — they’re even going in their crate or when stationed — they may have developed a urinary tract infection. If you think this is the case, take a sample of your puppy’s urine to your veteri- narian for testing. To collect a sample from your pup, take a plastic container outside and catch a spray of morning urine by holding it under your puppy as they go. Either race over and drop it off at your veterinarian’s office within an hour or refrigerate it for preservation.\n\nConsistency is the number-one concept of a good house-training routine. Help your family and helpers learn the program by drawing or copying Figure 14-1 and highlighting these points:\n\n» Where to take your puppy to potty » When to take them to potty » What signs your puppy might give, from pacing to quick exits or frantic\n\n» Your route to the potty area, including any sound cues, such as a word or", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 271, "chunk_index": 315, "id": "925ce874-b950-4863-b832-b6010f82d5f0", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "A young puppy’s needs are confusing. A baby will cry when needs are not met. Puppies, on the other hand, do other things to signal their need confusion, such as fidgeting, nipping, racing away, or whining. I’ve found that nipping is the most common reaction — think of it as a healthy way to reach out for your help. Even though you teach them a better signal down the road, for now be mindful that a young puppy’s nips may highlight their need to potty. Rather than disciplinie a baby puppy, direct them “Outside!” or to their “Papers!”\n\nTo help your puppy learn to give you a more appropriate signal, consider these suggestions:\n\n» Ring a bell or chime. Secure a bell or chime at your puppy’s nose level,\n\nraising it as they grow. (See Figure 14-2.) Tap the bell just before you go on a bathroom run. If your puppy has access to the door, hang it there so that the sound always indicates an open door. Otherwise, start by hanging it next to the gate, stairway, or banister that encloses their free-play area. Ring the bell for them or with them for a week. If they don’t catch on, discreetly smear butter or cheese on the bell first thing in the morning. When your puppy touches the bell, open the door — voilà.\n\n» Bark near their area. If your puppy is a barker, teach them to bark on cue. As you approach the exit area for a potty outing (door, gate, whatever), encour- age them to Speak (see Chapter 16). When they do, praise them lavishly, and on you go outside. Good puppy!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 272, "chunk_index": 316, "id": "d90e9fea-b592-40ea-a109-26c716b045de", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "As soon as you have the routine down pat (after a week or when your puppy is older than 12 weeks), encourage your puppy to signal you that they need to go out. Rather than chant “Outside,” lead your puppy to the door and wait for a sign that they need to go outside. If they’re a subtle signaler, call them to you and pump them up: “What is it? Outside? Good dog!” Show them the bell and then let them out. Repeat the process in rooms farther and farther from the door or their papers, running enthusiastically to the door with them and leading them to their spot on a leash.\n\nFIGURE 14-2: Teaching your puppy to ring a bell when they need to go out is easier than you think.\n\nGradually phase out the bathroom escort by letting the leash drop on your way to the potty area. As they learn the drill, start stopping three-quarters of the way there, and then halfway, and then let them go it alone.\n\nShelter or pet store pups often have a handicap when it comes to crate training. After all, they had no choice in that early impressionable time away from Mom. Though a mother dog in an ideal setting would teach their pups to move far away from their sleeping areas to go potty, shelter and pet store puppies often potty, sleep, and eat within the same enclosure.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 272, "chunk_index": 317, "id": "4512bb4c-adce-4e82-b70c-be369939f7cd", "word_count": 238, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 309 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy is having a problem with soiling in their sleeping area, the crate may not be the best option for house-training, because it symbolizes a potty area. At night, a young puppy can sleep at your bedside in a large, open-topped box or secured on a leash to your bedside (after they’re leash trained and comfortable with daytime stations). If they still can’t seem to keep their areas separate, you may need to gate a bathroom and leave papers down. During the day, keep your puppy with you or confine them in a small room, taking them outside or to the papers as often as your schedule will allow (ideally, within a half-hour to 2-hour period). Take them to the same area, over and over, following the routine described throughout this chapter. Having another dog eliminate in this area is helpful because the scent can give your puppy the right idea.\n\nAccidents do happen, and some puppies will have more than others, so knowing how to handle the situation is the key to limiting their frequency. Here are my quick tips:\n\n» Limit their freedom to a small confinement area. If your puppy is eliminating in little-used corners of your house, they may have too much freedom. Puppies are den animals. Most young or untrained adolescents won’t soil the area right around them, but if they can race upstairs or into an adjacent room outside their “den,” they’re more than happy to relieve themselves there.\n\nKeep your puppy confined in a crate or on a training tether (available online), or use a generic leash to serve the same purpose. A training tether leash can be quickly modified to secure to your waist or to an immovable object in the room you share. Designate an area in each location with a mat and chews so that your puppy can easily occupy themselves if you’re busy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 273, "chunk_index": 318, "id": "2b2ae6e8-9216-48cf-b715-f795a63e2dd6", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "Before letting your puppy run willy-nilly through all the rooms in your home, review Chapter 11 for tips on a more gradually integrated approach, one that I call walkabout.\n\n» Clean up accidents privately. If your puppy eliminates in an unacceptable place, don’t let them see you clean up their mess. Doing so may signal fun with paper towels or a nurturing acceptance — after all, their mom did lick up their messes — that will encourage a repeat performance. Calmly place your puppy in another room or with a family member as you clean it up.\n\n» Neutralize the odor. Your puppy has a very sensitive sniffer. They automati- cally return to areas where their smell is concentrated. Use a pet store formula or a 50-50 mixture of water and vinegar to remove the scent. » Know when corrections count. If you catch your puppy in the process of eliminating in the house, startle them just a little. (Shouting and running at your puppy is way too scary.) Clap your hands as you say, “Ep, ep, ep!” After you’ve interrupted your pup, relax your posture and calmly direct them to the elimination area as if nothing happened. When they’re done, praise your pup for finishing.\n\n» Know when disciplinary actions don’t count. As much as you want to think your pup is human, they aren’t. Your frustration and anger toward your puppy make you look foolish. I’ve heard this claim: “My puppy knows what they did was wrong — you should see the look of guilt on their face.” But the truth is, your puppy doesn’t understand the world in the same way you do. Though all", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 274, "chunk_index": 319, "id": "97a904f2-2f97-444d-9b09-9803f8b3b306", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "dogs recognize our frustration, they can’t dial it back to what prompted their wrongdoings. Sure, you can frighten a puppy into looking guilty, but scaring them won’t teach them anything — except to be leery of you.\n\nIf you catch your pup soiling someplace other than in their designated area, you can interrupt the process, but lay off all other corrections.\n\n» Maintain a stable diet. Avoid changing dog food brands, unless your\n\nveterinarian directs you to do so. Your puppy doesn’t digest food the way you do: Their intestine is small and unable to process and absorb a varied diet. If you must change food, do it slowly, shifting 25% every three days until you have 100% of the new food.\n\n» If your puppy is pooping in the house, lay off constant food treats. If you sporadically give food in any form throughout the day, their elimination habits may be random.\n\n» Watch the water intake. Puppies, especially young ones, drink water\n\nexcessively if they’re bored or nervous. If your pup is having house-training problems, monitor their water intake. Provide water or ice cubes (which absorb faster into their system than water) during mealtimes, just before an outing, and when they pant or go to their bowl.\n\nRegardless of where you live, pick up after your puppy. Stools attract bugs and worms, and stepping in dog poop is gross. Do your part — after all, in the city and many sub- urbs, cleaning up after your dog is the law. Retail scoopers are available at pet stores, or you can do what I do:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 275, "chunk_index": 320, "id": "56933dce-2f4c-42c6-8492-d6672eae0608", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Because bags are easy to carry on walks, you should never have an excuse for not cleaning up after your pooch.\n\nWhen a client calls complaining of everyday hassles — like a chewed\n\nslipper or puppies who jump or nip a lot — I pinch myself and smile. Though I respect their frustration, each of these behaviors is a sign of healthy development. Of course, no one likes having chewed carpets, pricked fin- gers, or company that hides from your puppy when you open the door, but resolv- ing this list of typical dog frustrations is straightforward and pretty simple, compared with more severe aggravations like leash reactivity, separation anxiety, and aggression. If these issues have you down, flip to Chapter 16 for more specific tips and tricks. For now, let me help you understand, empathize with, and create solutions for a host of common puppy problems.\n\nWhatever frustrations top your list, know this: You are not alone. There isn’t a problem in this chapter that hasn’t been had by just about every puppy parent at one time or another. Many solutions are common sense, with remedies that are so\n\nobvious you will wonder why you didn’t think of them yourself. As you address each frustration, follow this 3-step solution:\n\nYour puppy loves your attention and will repeat anything to get it — even if it’s negative.\n\nYour puppy is more interested in knowing what to do than being scolded for what not to do.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 275, "chunk_index": 321, "id": "eaae2d0f-c034-4691-acef-bb1b0bcc5d3f", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "Only after you’ve taught your puppy what they should do can you address the frustration with a remarkably easy, parental-sounding redirection: Don’t do that — do this! Other forms of discipline are often viewed by your puppy as confrontational play. Instead of calming your puppy during everyday interac- tions, your puppy will grow up doing bothersome things just to feel included. As I point out in Chapter 6, even negative attention (shouting, shoving, glaring) excites a puppy.\n\nFortunately, help is just ahead. You will learn how to encourage different routines, like chewing their objects instead of your furnishings, sitting for attention instead of jumping, and grabbing a bone when they’re excited instead of little Casey’s ponytail. The choice of how your puppy behaves is really up to you.\n\nYour puppy’s misbehavior exists only in your mind. From their perspective, what- ever they’re doing — sock stealing, counter cruising, nipping, digging, barking, or engaging in impulsive greeting rituals — has value and is often just plain fun. Before you can phase out one behavior, consider what you’d rather they do instead. We will explore your options together.\n\nAfter you’re an official puppy parent, your eyes and ears will perk up to any nearby conversation, article, tip, or controversy about dogs. Sometimes you’ll hear unfa- miliar terms — every field has its own jargon. To get you up to speed, here are some definitions of common terms used by dog professionals and dog lovers alike (for more examples or videos of these terms in action, visit my site, SarahSaysPets. com, or use that site’s Contact button to message me with your question):", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 278, "chunk_index": 322, "id": "210b19a3-16c3-411b-acdb-e74c93d9c348", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "» Block: Blocking breaks the eye contact between your puppy and a distraction, be it a muffin on the counter or another dog. Place an object or your body in your puppy’s line of vision to calm any reaction.\n\n» Condition: The idea here is to create an association between what’s going on in the environment and your puppy’s reaction to it. Ideally, you’ll condition your puppy to stimulations they’ll experience throughout their life. Sometimes your puppy will condition involuntary (known as classical conditioning), as in their response to the sound of a treat or food bag, and at other times you can condition voluntary responses, like teaching your puppy to sit when they see you holding a toy or food reward. Though you can use conditioning to train your dog chosen habits like sitting instead of jumping, your puppy can also condition bad habits just as quickly.\n\n» Counter-condition: Dogs can be taught new behaviors and routines to\n\ncounter another habit, like lying down or returning to your side when they see another dog on a leash, or sitting or fetching a toy when they hear a doorbell.\n\n» Desensitize: Desensitization involves gradually exposing your puppy to\n\nstimulations, like a noise or dog, that otherwise bring about a strong startle response until they’ve conditioned to its presence without reaction. » Extinguish: This references a way to bring an end to behavior by simply ignoring it. When a puppy barks for attention you can ignore it until the behavior is extinguished.\n\n» Habituate: This term refers to the gradual exposure to a former overstimulat- ing situation until your puppy can redirect or cope with the situation more calmly. A good example is a puppy who is reactive to vacuums being gradually habituated to them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 279, "chunk_index": 323, "id": "47e0a932-9d3d-45e6-aa46-ca390eb7b5bd", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "» Mimic: Recent studies show that dogs, like people and other primates, are capable of both emotional and behavioral copycat behavior, also known as mimicking. You could use mimicking to encourage calmness in situations where your puppy is excited or use cheerfulness if your puppy is cautious of a new dog or person. You can also use mimicry to teach your puppy the meaning of new words like “Upstairs” or “Outside.”\n\nneeds to hire a trainer is that trainers are proactive planners who understand behavior problems without needing to see them in action. Proactive training involves teaching your puppy what to do rather than waiting until your puppy is misbehaving to call attention to the wrong behavior.\n\n» Punishment: Anything that discourages a behavior is known as a punish- ment. Positive punishment adds something that your puppy will want to avoid, like a shock or a shove (although most positive punishments scare your puppy and result in other undesirable behavior, like chewing, self-mutilation,\n\nor avoidance). Negative punishment removes something when an action happens, like lifting a treat out of reach when your puppy jumps.\n\n» Redirect: Redirection involves changing your puppy’s focus from one activity to another activity. By associating words such as their name and phrases like Go Get Your Toy or Can’t Catch Me (see Chapter 20) with a fun activity, you can redirect your puppy when they’re feeling cautious, defensive, or excited, for example when greeting or chasing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 279, "chunk_index": 324, "id": "855a9bf0-6ec3-40be-a083-e90eafcea087", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "» Reactive responses: Reactive responses happen in response to bad behav- ior. Many people (including many ineffective trainers) wait until bad behavior occurs to direct or interfere with a puppy’s behavior. Instead of resulting in understanding, reactive responses create a negative behavior loop that strains the relationship between puppy and parent and leads to other annoying rituals like pacing, barking, and self-mutilation.\n\nAvoid anyone who tells you to use battery-operated collars that deliver shocks as a training strategy for your dog — and remember that these collars are illegal in many European countries.\n\n» Reinforce: Anything that encourages a behavior to occur is considered to be reinforcing the behavior. Certain positive reinforcements provide something rewarding to your puppy, like a reward for sitting for treats and toys — ensuring that they’ll repeat the response. On the other hand, negative reinforcements remove a positive aspect, such as covering your face each time your puppy jumps or paws for attention. (Puppies crave face-to-face contact and will adjust their behavior if it is denied them.)\n\n» Socialize: This process involves getting your puppy used to the different\n\nsights, sounds, and stimulations they’ll be exposed to throughout their life. A puppy who isn’t well socialized will have strong, often paralyzing reactions to unfamiliar things.\n\n» Trigger: Anything that stimulates a strong reaction in your puppy is commonly called a trigger. Some sounds or sights or situations will trigger fear, hyperre- activity, or defensiveness in a puppy. Keep track of what triggers your puppy, and work to socialize them to the situation until they’re comfortable with it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 280, "chunk_index": 325, "id": "7e4c61ab-abab-4f85-9ac8-ffc953daa9f0", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Chewing is a puppy thing. It’s nothing personal. Puppies don’t know a stick from a table leg or a doll’s head from a chestnut. Just like kids, pups are curious about the world around them, and they love to explore. Kids use their hands to explore, and puppies use their mouths.\n\nAdditionally, pups between 3½ and 11 months old are teething and growing: They start out with a tiny, adorable head filled with 28 little baby teeth, and within a year they end up with a big head filled with 42 adult chompers. During this time, your puppy may chew on the furniture, the walls, or your favorite shoes to allevi- ate discomfort. To ward off possible destruction, supply (and encourage the use of) appropriate chew toys. Get spray deterrents to make your valuables taste bad. In addition, be patient and use some of the tried-and-true techniques described in this subsection to teach your puppy what to chew instead of what not to.\n\nHaving objects scattered all over the floor can confuse your puppy, who may think that everything on the ground belongs in their mouth. Instead, organize a calming station in the rooms you share and place a couple of bones and toys on it or near it in a toy basket. Teach your puppy the phrase Go Get Your Toy (or Bone), by say- ing it each time they look bored or it’s clear they want to play. Reward your puppy with time, play, or food bits.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 280, "chunk_index": 326, "id": "3a0eb63d-f897-4a65-aaab-9fc90d22f92b", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "Designate one favorite toy to offer during greetings. Pull it out whenever you’re coming in or visitors arrive, and keep a replica by the crate to offer whenever you’re greeting your puppy there. Wait to greet your puppy until they either settle down or grab the toy playfully. Not sure what to use as a greeting object? I use a tennis ball for one of my doggies and a hollow bone stuffed with peanut butter for another. See what your puppy likes best and use that!\n\nSpray deterrent can be very useful if you find one that works. Any odor or bitter- tasting fluid can be dabbed or sprayed onto the surface to discourage your puppy from mouthing it. Certain store-bought products or household products (like vin- egar or diluted oils) may do the trick. If you notice your puppy chewing on the furniture surrounding their station, coat everything except their bed and bone. Also, if your puppy is chewing household items such as wires or phone cords, say “EP, ep” as you discreetly spray the article. Before you leave the scene, redirect your puppy to their chew toy.\n\nWhen one puppy steals another puppy’s toy or bone, the object’s value increases. The same is true if your puppy grabs something you’d rather they didn’t and you race over to them or chase them to get it back. Instead of teaching the puppy to avoid whatever they’ve just grabbed, you’ve just communicated “Prize envy!” In other words, they’ll consider that whatever they have is valuable because you’re challenging them to get it back. If you make a fuss after they grab it, your puppy thinks, “Wow, what a great prize — everybody wants to take it from me!”", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 281, "chunk_index": 327, "id": "e670b53e-ba8f-41c6-8574-5deda16eb2bc", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Avoid disciplining after the fact, too; your puppy won’t understand you. And remember, yelling is barking to a puppy, so they’ll bark back or grow fearful of you or interpret your aggression as an invitation to play rough. To create a flow- ing, happy relationship with your puppy, set up situations so that you can catch their thought process and redirect their focus to a more appropriate toy.\n\nTo your puppy, everything is a treasure — whether or not you agree. Too often, when you’re chasing or admonishing a puppy for taking something, the puppy learns the wrong message — that you’ll stop everything to get the particular thing back . . . so they take it again and again and again. The solution is just as easy — here’s how you do it:\n\nMaking a treat cup is easy; refer to Chapter 5 for specific instructions. If your puppy hasn’t made the connection on what a treat cup is, shake the container and offer them treats until they associate the sound with getting a treat.\n\nKeep the sound consistent and familiar by using the same kind of cup in every room.\n\n3. Each time they chew or play with a toy (yours or their item), approach with a treat cup and toss treats on the ground as you say “Find it.”\n\nWhen your puppy drops the object, say “Give” as they release it.\n\n4. If the object is a bone, just let them go back to chewing it.\n\nDon’t touch it or take it away if you don’t have to.\n\n5. If the object is a toy, toss it and continue playing for several minutes to highlight the bonus of playing together.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 282, "chunk_index": 328, "id": "1ec9ef14-4122-4e72-9995-27895f869d1e", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "6. If the object is one of your belongings, pick it up and put it out of reach. 7. Calmly redirect them to their toys and play with them if you have a few minutes.\n\nI can hear you already: “Doesn’t treating encourage the behavior?” Even though this technique doesn’t discourage your puppy’s mischief, it does encourage them to share their treasures, which can save you a lot in replacement fees. A delivery system is better than a destruction crew.\n\nIf your puppy has learned to run away from you with objects, place them on a 4-foot freedom line in the house, and then step on the line as you shake the cup and follow the new routine of tossing treats on the floor and encouraging them to Grab-n-Show. After they understand that your approach isn’t threatening, the next time your puppy grabs something you don’t want them to have, find a treat cup, shake it, and call them over. Say “Give” as you offer a treat. Praise them when they release the object and help them find a chew toy. You can say “Where’s your toy?” to encourage them.\n\nHow you shape your puppy’s understanding of what to chew and what not to depends on their age. Puppies younger than 16 weeks are like babies: self-absorbed and floating from one need state to another. They sleep, they eat, and they poop. Sure, they pick things up, but they’re not aware of any value or consequence. An older puppy, however, begins to seek things out to get your attention or to relieve physical growing pains. How you deal with your puppy depends on their age.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 282, "chunk_index": 329, "id": "56279070-a4a7-4682-b1fc-78f541480aab", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "A puppy younger than 16 weeks is too young to comprehend your frustration. Sure, when you yell or grab them, they may look guilty, but I’ve got news for you: You’re only terrifying them. Think about it: The very person they look to for reas- surance is chasing them down, wild-gorilla style. Pretty scary, no?\n\nYour puppy’s mouth is equivalent to your hands: If your puppy is restless, or ner- vous, they chew. Young puppies live moment to moment just doing whatever comes naturally. They can’t remember what they did two seconds ago, so all interruptions are translated as confrontational — by the very person they love. And if that weren’t bad enough, guess what an overcorrected, nervous, fearful puppy grows up doing to relieve their tension? Right — they chew!\n\nFortunately, I can introduce you to a better way. The following system works for puppies at any age, but it’s especially important to teach a young puppy good chewing habits:\n\n» Create a playroom: Place a mat down to rest on and a collection of their toys and chew items. Keep it clean, with no other temptations around. Spend time together teaching them to identify toys and chews by name.\n\n» Take a walkabout: These are planned “walks” round and about your home; use them to condition your puppy where to go to find their place, toys and chews in each room you share. Guide your puppy on a leash, and show them their places in various rooms in the house. (You can learn more\n\n» EP, ep: If your puppy shows interest in grasping an inappropriate object, tug their leash toward you and say “EP, ep,” and then quickly redirect your puppy to your side with a quick Find It game or to their place and toys.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 283, "chunk_index": 330, "id": "06c67c5b-4161-4ba5-93e7-b354af9d2993", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "» Share rewards: Use a treat cup to reward sharing, as outlined in the section\n\n“Tell your puppy what to do,” earlier in this chapter.\n\nAs your puppy matures, you’ll be better able to impress upon them the difference between their belongings and those objects that are off limits. That said, if you come upon destruction after the fact, you have to let it go. After-the-fact correc- tions are ineffective and damaging to your relationship because your puppy will grow anxious of your sudden (and to them, anyway, unexplainable) outburst. On the flip side, correcting the thought process and then shaming the object of interest helps teach your puppy what to avoid. And, when done correctly, this method puts the negative focus outside your relationship, allowing you to maintain your loving connection.\n\nReview the Leave It instruction, as taught in Chapter 11. Then set up a situation with something your puppy’s obsessed with — tissues, shoes, a Barbie doll, or whatever else strikes their fancy — and follow these steps:\n\nWhile your puppy’s resting in another room, set the object in the middle of the floor.\n\nThough a casual glance or sniff is okay, racing or grabbing the item is not. If they’re intent on a snatch (ears and eyes focused, leaning away from you and toward the item), guide them back (using a high value treat if you need too) and say “Leave it.”\n\n4. Bad Sock! (or Chicken, Counter, or Garbage, and so on).\n\nCalmly lean down, pick up the object, and shame it woefully — bad, bad sock! — without looking at your puppy. (See Figure 15-1.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 284, "chunk_index": 331, "id": "1ff2c14d-b246-4c90-9932-938ad959181a", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "You read that right: Get upset with the object, not at your puppy. You’re doing the puppy version of telling a child the stove is hot — the focus isn’t on the child’s being bad but on the fact that the object is unsafe for them.\n\nFIGURE 15-1: Reprimand the object, not your puppy.\n\nDon’t even look at your puppy as you mouth off to the naughty thing. Your neighbors may think you need to be committed, but your puppy will love you for it.\n\nIf your puppy walks by without lunging, keep them focused. Your reminder to Leave it combined with a treat or toy should convince them to ignore the chastened object like the plague (See Figure 15-2.) If they don’t ignore it, consider their age; they may be too impulsive to absorb this lesson (wait a month and Your puppy repeat this sequence after they turn six months), or you may be looking at them, or perhaps your timing is off. Say “Leave it” as your puppy approaches the item, and then scold the item, not your puppy.\n\nAvoid practicing off-lead. If you can’t stabilize your puppy, they’re more likely to dance about, snatching at the object and then darting away from you, turning this lesson into a game of bait and chase.\n\nUse the Leave it to catch your puppy in the thought process. If your puppy already has an object in their mouth, you’re too late. Stay very calm at this point and focus on teaching your puppy to share their finds instead of coveting them as described above.\n\nFIGURE 15-2: “What sock?” If you scold an object, your puppy then avoids it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 284, "chunk_index": 332, "id": "aa9b71ee-32de-4187-89a7-e2e11877b949", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies, being puppies, are bound to chase and grab at things. If the item is a ball or squeak toy, you don’t have a problem. But if it’s the children, cats, or your clothing, well, that’s an issue. Your new goal is to teach the puppy what’s accept- able to grab, pull, and tug at and what’s off limits.\n\nIn Chapter 20, I point out that the teaching Tug and Give simultaneously is critical to developing your puppy’s understanding of when it’s okay to tug on items and when the items have to be released. You may want to check out that chapter before trying out this section’s strategies in your day-to-day interactions with your pup.\n\nIf your puppy is a clothing grabber or a scarf puller or a hair band snatcher, you’ll need to make it crystal-clear that worn objects are off limits. Purchase or make a dog play pole that you can bounce about like a fishing rod as you encourage your puppy to Go Get Your Toy and play Tug-Tug-Give (described in Chapter 20) with their toy. Then fill a small spray bottle with a distasteful spray deterrent and carry it with you when you suspect an assault. Don’t look at your puppy or turn and face them when they jump after your clothes, as they’ll interpret your actions as rough play or confrontational. Without looking at your puppy or responding impulsively, spray your clothing discreetly while your puppy is instigating this interaction and continue walking.\n\nIf the clothes-grabbing problem persists, get help now. It can mature into adult aggression — no joke.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 286, "chunk_index": 333, "id": "6089b872-25aa-46da-8995-88ae1c9c388e", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Kids and critters running around the yard, apartment, or house are a big tempta- tion to your puppy. If you were a puppy, you’d be stimulated to chase them, too. Because you can’t teach kids and critters to freeze on cue, you need to help your puppy control their impulses. Follow the 3 step program mentioned earlier in this chapter, as it works well here, too.\n\nGet ready for action by putting your puppy on their leash and training collar or harness — ideally, around mealtime so that you can use their food to engage in the following lesson (feeding their food in portions or by hand). Now have your kids role-play — ask them to race around the room and engage in exciting mock play in front of you and your puppy as if you and the puppy weren’t there. (Remind them not to look at the puppy.)\n\nEngage your puppy by luring a lesson (first outlined in Chapters 10) or by playing Find It or another favorite game from Chapter 20.\n\nAnytime your puppy looks, leans, or lunges at the children, either step between them (block) or move in the opposite direction as you redirect them to another diversionary game or activity (refer to Step 2).\n\nAfter you’ve calmed your puppy indoors, repeat this same routine outdoors until they can be together without setting each other off. Refer to the kids-and-puppy section of Chapter 8 for more tips on peacefully raising your kids and puppy together.\n\nFor safety reasons, never leave the puppy and children unattended. Remind the children of the differences between dogs and other kids — namely, that dogs don’t like being hugged, because it makes them feel trapped and threatened and they only stare directly at each other when inviting rough play or a fight. Because kids have poor memories, grown-ups have to be around to remind them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 287, "chunk_index": 334, "id": "d2c90d26-bd27-4289-a951-4a2cb6e967c1", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy could get their paws on some magic device that conveyed them through the world at eye level to humans, they’d never jump again. There’d be no need — they’d be face-to-face with their pack members, seeing what they see and\n\ndoing whatever they do— bonding, hanging on the couch, checking on the pan- cakes, or slapping a big, friendly wet one right on Aunt Sally’s kisser.\n\nOf course, puppies can’t live their life at that height, so your puppy takes to jump- ing. They jump to greet, explore, and join you in places where you’d rather they not. When you correct them — nudge them off the couch or attempt to repel their 2-legged embrace, they translate your physical interaction as playful, exciting, and interactive. You’re encouraging them with your attention.\n\nPuppies who jump need to learn the 4-paw rule, which means that they don’t get what they want until all four paws are on the floor. For your puppy to understand that the 4-paw rule applies everywhere and with everyone, consistency is a must, so use one of the creative ways spelled out in this chapter to involve your friends and family. Soon you’ll realize that your puppy isn’t the most difficult one to train.\n\nPlace toy baskets by key excitement points, like entranceways and your puppy’s crate so that, when greetings arise, you can direct your puppy to grab their toy or bone first, as I discuss in Chapter 8.\n\nAll puppies want you down on their level. If they can’t figure how to get you down, they’ll come up. Though you may feel frustrated at the moment, any pushing or shoving only encourages more jumping, as most perceive physical corrections as confrontational play. A better solution is to counter-condition your puppy by teaching an alternative behavior, such as the ones in this list:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 287, "chunk_index": 335, "id": "a9c7a333-2a49-4cc3-922d-919cbb96e7eb", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "» Sit: Teach your puppy to sit when they hear the doorbell, the word hello, or the sound of a treat cup shaking. Flip to Chapter 10 for tips on teaching Sit. » Belly Up: If your puppy likes a belly rub (most do), pair calming rubs with the words “Belly Up!” After a week or so of pairing the word with the action, say “Belly Up!” during greetings.\n\n» Go Get Your Toy: Each time you enter the house or play with your puppy, pair a word to the action of getting a toy. If you have a basket of toys by the door or greeting area, direct your puppy to Go Get Your Toy each time there’s a meet-and-greet.\n\n» Dance: Some little dogs are obsessed with hopping around on their hind legs, especially when they’re happy. If this sounds like your baby, teach them to Dance on cue by holding a treat or toy above their head a full arm’s length from your body. Now do the same thing at the door. There’s only one rule — no physical contact.\n\n» Go to Your Place: In Chapter 7, I talk about the calming value of giving your puppy a comforting place in all the rooms you share. Having a place by the door is helpful, too: Send your puppy there for greetings and also after they come in from muddy or wet walks.\n\nTo learn how to teach your puppy these directions, flip to the age-appropriate sections of Part 3 for instructions.\n\nTo address the frustration at the moment, you need self-control. Remember: Any attention — negative or positive — given to your puppy at the moment will only encourage more jumping, not less. After you get hold of yourself, try these strategies:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 288, "chunk_index": 336, "id": "9320369b-2509-4ab2-8db0-5d218303dcdd", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "» The peekaboo solution: The most effective solution for an attention jumper is to do the exact opposite of what they’re hoping for: It’s what I call the peekaboo solution. (See Figure 15-3.) The pros would say that we’re solving the problem by extinguishing it. Consider this: If I kept bugging you to play Monopoly and you didn’t look up once, I’d go elsewhere for fun. After your puppy stops jumping, encourage them by saying “Sit” or “Go get your toy!” and then give them attention for that.\n\n» Block: This solution often takes puppies by surprise. Do it gently and without any engagement with your eyes or torso. As your puppy jumps, calmly move your leg or torso into the space their body occupies so that they’re bumped slightly off balance. Even if they try to jump a couple of times, keep moving your leg into their space. When they pause to consider the incident, instruct “Sit\" and praise them.\n\n» Reverse yo-yo: If your puppy’s a real jumper, keep a lead (at least 4’ long)\n\nattached to their collar. When they jump, either step on the leash so that it’s short enough to get them only a few inches off the ground but no higher, or gently pull your puppy sideways. Continue to ignore them as if they weren’t there, giving no eye contact, body language, or verbal corrections until they’ve settled enough to sit calmly.\n\n» Spray away: Also effective when it comes to discouraging eager jumpers is to spray a bitter-tasting deterrent (lemon juice-water, vinegar-water at a 50% mix, or a marketed taste deterrent) between your bodies. Avoid spraying your puppy in the face; spray your clothing instead to create a vapor boundary between you. After your puppy pulls away, refocus their energy to a toy or game.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 289, "chunk_index": 337, "id": "98f1c452-375d-42af-9600-9d624d5f5e2a", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "FIGURE 15-3: Cover your eyes when your puppy jumps for attention.\n\nCounter-cruising is a common habit — after all, you spend an awful lot of time moving stuff around on them. Blatant corrections are perceived as prize envy — that you’re coveting whatever’s up there. If your corrections are too pronounced and threatening, you may encourage sneaky behavior such as counter-cruising behind your back. Even though you think your puppy’s grabbing out of spite, they’re not.\n\nThe reason your puppy snatches things off the countertops when your back is turned or you leave the room is that — obviously — they want to avoid being chal- lenged by you. Basically, they’re thinking, “Whatever is on the counter must be great, so I’d better grab it when all backs are turned, or else I’ll have to give it up.”\n\nFollow these steps to get a handle on this issue (a puppy must be six months old to understand this sequence):\n\n1. Place a tempting item on the counter and bring your puppy into the room on-leash.\n\n2. The instant your puppy looks up to sniff the counter, calmly pull back on the leash and say “Leave it.” Next, shame the counter in an admonishing tone, “Shame on the counter!”\n\n3. Continue to work in the kitchen, reminding your puppy to leave it when they look at the countertop then redirecting them to their place and their toy or chew.\n\nIf your puppy’s already stolen something off the counter, try not to be upset. To retrieve the object, call your puppy to you and calmly exchange the item for a treat or toy. Yelling or shoving your puppy after they’re already in possession of some- thing will only reinforce their behavior, ensure they counter-cruise when your back is turned, and guarantee a repeat performance.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 290, "chunk_index": 338, "id": "aadecdf6-71f1-4512-bdad-e3ce7f9c8bd6", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "If mealtimes are too distracting for your puppy, tether them while you cook. (See Chapter 11 for advice on tethering.)\n\nThere are people who really don’t see any issue with dogs being on the furniture. If you count yourself among them, you have my permission to skip this section. However, some people invite young puppies on the furniture only to regret it dur- ing adolescence when they use the furnishings as a parkour course. If you have a puppy and you don’t want them on your furniture permanently, or you want them to come up by permission only, do yourself a favor and discourage the behavior until they’re eight months old. You can still snuggle anytime, but it’s better to slide down to the floor so that you’re making the choice to come down to their level, versus bringing them up to you.\n\nWhen a client doesn’t want the puppy on the furniture, or they want their puppy only to come up when they say it’s okay, I teach a technique I call level-training. It’s especially important if a puppy struggles with house-training (puppies are more likely to pee on absorbent surfaces), chewing or impulse control. Hopping on the couch and standing eye to eye gives many puppies the impression that it’s playtime. A better approach is to have your puppy stay on their place, looking up to you with parental reverence. As your puppy matures, you can permission-train them, as detailed later in this section.\n\nAlready got a couch hugger? The habit’s not too difficult to break as long as you’re consistent. Follow these steps to level-train your young pup:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 291, "chunk_index": 339, "id": "f5ee06c5-f72d-4fc7-9b57-93ffe5f48cc3", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Be fair — set up a calming station nearby to help your puppy feel welcome and directed when you’re relaxing on the furniture.\n\nTell your puppy to “Go to Your Place” when you approach their area and direct them to a bone or ball each time you approach the area. Reward them with treats and attention whenever they go into the area on their own.\n\nIf your puppy places a paw or two on your leg or cushion, catch their impulse early and calmly remind them to Go to Your Place. Have plenty of toys and bones for them to play with, and give them lots of attention once they’re settled down.\n\nPermission training: Allowing older puppies on the furniture\n\nI enjoy cuddling with my dogs on the couch and sometimes even on the bed — especially when I’m sick. However, each of my dogs was taught to come up only when given permission. Sound confusing? It isn’t. Your puppy can learn anything if your rules are consistent.\n\nWait until your puppy is at least eight months old to introduce the concept of per- mission. Until this point, you should keep your puppy on the floor so that they don’t assume the cushions are theirs and don’t see you as a puppy.\n\nFollow these steps to teach your puppy to join you on the furniture when they’re invited:\n\nGive your puppy a place in all the rooms you share. Teach them to go to bed when you say “Place” by following the steps in Chapter 7. Then teach them the meaning of Off.\n\nThey might freeze and look confused; if they do, guide them up.\n\nAfter 5 to 15 minutes, direct them to their place and to their toy or bone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 291, "chunk_index": 340, "id": "5c46871f-68d7-4204-96f0-df8c33dd7823", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy jumps up without permission, calmly guide them to their comfort station and direct them to their objects. It often takes some repetition, just like teaching young kids to sit at the table. When you’d like to invite your puppy up, bring them to the furniture and ask them to “Sit” and “Wait.”\n\nSitting and looking to you is how your puppy should learn to ask permission to join you. When they do tap your lap or the furniture and say UP, up to invite your puppy to join you on the furniture (See Figure 15-4).\n\nFIGURE 15-4: Teach your puppy to say “please” by sitting!\n\nIf your puppy gets hyper on the furniture, they’re too young to contain the excite- ment of being on your level. Wait a couple of months before reintroducing per- mission training.\n\nMouthing and nipping are two different issues. Mouthing is an oral activity, where your puppy will gently grasp your hand or arm in their mouth; it’s more of a communication skill to convey need or confusion or to inspire playful interaction. Nipping, on the other hand, is a more direct communication, inviting rough play or signaling tantrum-like behavior resulting in overstimulation or lack of sleep. Nipping with intent to harm is a more concerning issue and may be a sign of resource guarding or another form of aggression: Speak to your veterinarian or consider outside help. (For more on how to deal with aggression, flip to Chapter 16.)\n\nAll puppies mouth — it’s what they do. Getting nipped with those sharp little needle teeth can hurt, but consider this: Before your puppy came home with you, mouthing is just what they did all day long. They mouthed their mama, they", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 292, "chunk_index": 341, "id": "81597273-2adc-4e21-8a9d-7052d80bfa6e", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "mouthed their littermates, and they put their mouth on everything they could reach. Bringing them home is a real culture shock, and suddenly being expected not to mouth is a confusing lesson. Here are some tips to make it easy and fun:\n\nTeach gentle: Instead of teaching your puppy not to mouth you (a losing proposition), teach your puppy to mouth you gently. Relax your hand in your puppy’s mouth and say “Gentle” as long as they’re doing just that.\n\nTeach kisses: Whenever your puppy licks you, say “Kisses” and praise them warmly. Encourage licking by slathering your hands with a frozen stick of butter. Yum! With the butter treat, they’ll gladly lick your hand instead of mouthing it.\n\nTeach YOUCH: When your puppy bites down too hard (which will happen), make a big sudden to-do like you’re hurt, which may not be so hard to pretend, after all. Shout “YOUCH” dramatically, and watch your puppy’s reaction. Some take it to heart, recognizing your pain threshold, and return to gentle mouthing. Other puppies find your theatrics hysterically funny and get even more excited. If your puppy is the latter, don’t try this again, because it’ll only make matters worse.\n\n» Redirect: Puppies generally mouth because they want to be with you. If you substitute a toy for flesh, stay with your puppy as you encourage them to engage in a chew. You can also try these strategies:\n\nCheck your puppy’s needs chart: Needy puppies (hungry or thirsty; tired or wound up; potty-ready) get mouthy.\n\nPlay games. Choose chasing games with multiple toys or a play pole. • Pet your puppy soothingly. Use long strokes, which has a soothing effect on puppies.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 294, "chunk_index": 342, "id": "8319f42c-4636-49a7-9560-3811ab984029", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Mouthing generally slows after your puppy’s milk teeth fall out, around four to five months old. If mouthing continues, you can extinguish it by withholding your attention when your puppy nips softly. Keep your hand still, because withdrawing it is an invitation to play and nip harder. Encourage kisses and give them attention when the lick your hand instead.\n\nSometimes a puppy can go from mouthing gently to nipping: They’re two very different behaviors. Mouthing is loving, nipping is bossy — and it smarts. A nip- ping puppy isn’t a bad puppy. They’re just pushy — and because you’re the one who let them get away with being pushy in the first place (although I’m sure it wasn’t your intention), you’re the only one who can get them to stop.\n\nYour puppy might nip you from behind to demand your attention. A puppy might nip in play or when chewing a bone or resting and they don’t want to be bothered.\n\nPhysical corrections get interpreted as confrontational play, so they can cause a puppy to escalate their mouthing to nipping as a defensive reaction.\n\nIf you have children, please flip to Chapter 8 for more tips on raising them together.\n\nDiscouraging nipping follows the same pattern of the other behavior modification strategies I’ve mentioned:\n\nConsider whether your puppy might be overtired (one of the leading causes of early-onset aggression) or under-exercised. Both situations can cause very similar reactions.\n\nWrite down all the situations that trigger your puppy’s nipping — for example, when they’re resting or chewing a bone or you’re talking on the phone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 294, "chunk_index": 343, "id": "23200d13-18c4-476e-bb3f-1012b0268f70", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "Consider using a compassion-wear head harness. These collars automati- cally correct a lot of behaviors, like nipping, because of their calming effect. As outlined in Chapter 5, the pressure of these collars on the nose and behind the ear allows you to gently guide your puppy and enables you to calmly break their staring when they’re getting reactive.\n\nReconsider the types of games you play with your nippy puppy. Though they may love aggressive, physical games like tug-of-war and wrestling, until they learn oral impulse control and soft-mouthing-only rules, play games that keep them at a distance, like Soda Bottle Soccer, Find It, and Play Pole Fun. (For instructions on these game alternatives, see Chapter 20.)\n\nSit-for-everything training will give your puppy a whole new perspective. Instead of being pushy, they will wait on your every direction: To your puppy, life is a game. You want to be the one to teach them what comes next. Have your puppy sit for everything, and use treats, toys, or even their meals (feeding them kibble by kibble or spooning out the food, if you have the time) as you walk around asking them to Sit by the stairs, in the hallway, and by the door. Getting bored with just sitting? Work on Down and Stand and Come — see Chapters 10–14 for instructions.\n\nLeave a leash on your puppy so that you have something to direct them with — and so that you can avoid physical confrontation. Use a long line outdoors and a drag lead indoors (when your puppy is enjoying free rein of the house) to enable easy guiding.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 295, "chunk_index": 344, "id": "b29e4bbb-4a7b-4375-8a3e-37af6a64d253", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "Remember with your puppy, any attention — negative or positive — will be interpreted as confrontational play and make the nippy behavior more intense and frequent. That said, when it occurs, do the following:\n\nGive yourself a timeout. Separate from your puppy; Don’t scold your puppy as you walk away or isolate them in their crate, free play area or pen.\n\nSeek higher ground. When the kids and the puppy are playing and the puppy is getting too wild, teach the kids to escape to Alligator Island. Say what? Flip back to Chapter 8 for a full explanation of this game, but in short any countertop can be used as an island! Have the kids ignore your puppy completely, until they are calmly standing or sitting on all four paws. If the puppy continues to jump, tell the kids to cover their faces with their eyes. Once your puppy is settled, the kids can toss toys or treats at a safe distance!\n\nSpray away. If your puppy persists, try spritzing yourself with bitter apple spray or putting a leash on your puppy so that you can guide them off your body part instead of leaping out of their way.\n\nPurchase several small spray misters to place around your home for handy access. Discreetly hold them in your hand as you spray whatever object your puppy is nipping — clothing, furniture, or body part.\n\nNever stare at your pup while you spritz or spray them. Doing so turns an unpleasant result into a confrontational interaction.\n\nIf your interactions and discouragement don’t calm your puppy’s reactivity, find a professional to help you rehabilitate them. Some mouthy puppies grow into dogs who use aggression to get their point across.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 296, "chunk_index": 345, "id": "396f7be2-de30-44e9-a066-f4b8417a3e4c", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Chapter 16 Addressing Extreme Reactions — On and Off the Leash\n\nAs your puppy matures into adolescence, they start taking life far more\n\nseriously. They notice things and respond to unusual sights and sounds. Your pup is now fully aware of comings and goings — yours and everyone else’s. They grow bored with the same old stuff and worrisome when alone. Without your understanding and direction, or if unfairly disciplined for what are, to your puppy, completely normal reactions to life’s uncertainties, their reactive behavior will get worse and not better.\n\nIn this chapter, you’ll learn how to respond and redirect the behaviors that con- cern or aggravate you — like digging, barking, aggression, leash reactivity, and other anxious behavior (especially when left alone). Keep in mind, though, that changing your puppy’s behavior is less about them and more about how you han- dle their reactions to everyday situations. Hyperassertive or soothing approaches generally backfire because they’re more interactive than instructional.\n\nIf you read along and analyze just what might be causing your puppy’s reaction, you can tweak your response. Remember: Everything depends on what you do at the moment. If you react to a barking, lurching, digging, mounting, or grazing puppy with the wrong kind of intervention, you’re guaranteed a repeat perfor- mance. If instead you counter-condition, desensitize, or redirect them (more on those terms in a bit), you can guide your puppy to a behavior that’s more chill or socially acceptable, like chewing on a bone, sitting still and watching you, or fetching. Are you wondering, “What can I do to redirect my puppy to a new skill or to alleviate my puppy’s stress completely?” Read on to figure out the answer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 297, "chunk_index": 346, "id": "b7f4ba76-543c-434a-8ff2-b7b5b17a0062", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs display several different types of aggression. Understanding what may be developing enables you to react appropriately. This section identifies the various types of aggression and gives some advice on how to hold it in check.\n\nThe following descriptions and suggestions don’t take the place of professional attention if your puppy is showing aggression. Aggression becomes more serious as puppies mature and lose their puppyhood inhibitions.\n\nNever approach an aggressive dog, and do not face them straight on — those movements are perceived as challenging. If you get into an encounter with an aggressive dog, don’t run away in a frantic panic: Many dogs view this behavior as prey-like and may chase and bite you. When possible, drop your head and close your eyes — and don’t move. After a dog sniffs you over and accepts your non- threatening posture, they’ll likely retreat. If you need to move away, back away slowly and do not make eye contact with the dog.\n\nDo you have an interactive pup under your roof who steals clothing for fun, barks for attention, leans against you in new environments or around strangers, or\n\nsuccessfully solicits attention whenever the mood strikes? Giving constant attention and dedication to their motion conveys the notion that you’re the one being trained! When you do finally assert yourself, a dog who is prone to use aggression to resolve conflicts may use it when you change gears and try suddenly to control them. To regain control, follow these tips, for starters:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 298, "chunk_index": 347, "id": "d1b1feff-39ad-46d3-9ca7-2849d42aaed7", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "» Feed them half or more of their food by hand. Teach them the sequence\n\nlessons outlined in Chapter 11, and insist that your puppy mind you to be fed. Practice two to five lessons each day (from five to ten minutes each), and during those lessons use every direction they know.\n\n» Say “Excuse me” when your puppy blocks your path. (I first mention this\n\ntip in Chapter 11.) Shuffle through them with your feet, or calmly walk through them if they’re standing in your way.\n\n» Ignore all their attempts to get your attention. Some of these attention-\n\ngetting behaviors include barking, pawing, head-butting, and whining. Use the peekaboo solution I describe in Chapter 15.\n\n» Don’t stare at your puppy. Unless you’re exchanging loving glances when you’re both relaxing, dominance stares-downs can be threatening to young puppies.\n\nIf your puppy growls during any of these efforts, such as when getting them to move out of your way, don’t push it. Stop everything until you get professional help. Your problem is serious.\n\nA puppy who shows aggression while eating, sleeping, grooming, or being medi- cated by a family member, stranger, or dog professional (veterinarian or groomer) is showing resource guarding. This type of aggression is usually tied in with domi- nant, territorial, or idiopathic aggression.\n\nIf you see this type of behavior from your puppy, don’t freak out, hit them, or scream. These reactions only reinforce their defensive notion that you’ve come to steal their prize or assert yourself.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 299, "chunk_index": 348, "id": "e6d71029-4ead-44be-b02e-35de3b144083", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "The prevention and remedy for this problem are to help your pup accept you as less threatening. Don’t make a power struggle over whatever object they’re guard- ing. Follow these steps to train your puppy to let you into their personal space and\n\nnear their favorite items (such as a food bowl at mealtime). Although I reference a food dish, you should also practice this exercise with a favorite toy or bone:\n\n1. Condition your puppy to a positive sound, such as a shaking treat cup or a clicker.\n\nAlways follow the sound with a food reward. (Chapter 5 describes using these training aids.)\n\nPractice this step three times a day. Continue until your puppy connects the sound with a reward, and then go on to the next step.\n\n2. Once a day, while your puppy is eating a meal or chewing on a bone, approach them with the treat cup and reward them, at first, by tossing a treat at their feet and saying “Find it.” Do not reach down or take the food or object away.\n\n3. Next, approach your puppy and kneel or crouch so that you are able to toss the treat into their bowl while they are eating or between their paws. If your puppy tenses up or growl as you approach them during a meal, stop and seek professional advice immediately. Your puppy is too close to what’s known as a biting threshold and may bite anyone who stands too close them. Don’t let your puppy become another dog-bite statistic.\n\n4. When your pup is comfortable with your kneeling and tossing a treat into their bowl or by their feet, try letting them take the reward from your hand.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 299, "chunk_index": 349, "id": "fd4ff8be-521c-4a0f-9f44-bd7b20e2faf0", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs notice fear. If you’re afraid, your puppy knows it and will be suspicious. If you’re fearful of your puppy, call a professional immediately.\n\nI can’t guarantee that you won’t get bitten in the process of training a puppy who shows resource guaring aggression, so you be the judge. Proceed only to the point that your puppy seems happy and comfortable with your interactions. If they tense up or lay their head over their possessions or growl, call in a professional trainer for help. One session can provide all the enlightenment you need.\n\nDogs who act aggressively when strangers approach their homes are territorial. This problem is commonly encouraged when\n\n» Delivery people approach and leave the home territory: Because the puppy thinks that they were successful in “driving the people away,” their defensiveness is reinforced.\n\n» The owners are home and react to a territorial response by yelling or\n\nphysical handling: In this situation, the dog perceives the owners’ heightened response as attention, which reinforces their response.\n\n» A dog is allowed to react aggressively in a car or tethered outside: When a dog acts defensively in these situations, they’re warning all intruders to stay away. Because they do, they consider themselves victorious, which reinforces their territorial aggression.\n\n» Dogs are isolated during greetings or visits: These isolated dogs may develop what I call frustrated territorial aggression (FTA), which isn’t a good thing. In a normal group of dogs, all the dogs are allowed to “sniff-greet” a newbie. Isolation frustrates this normal process and encourages an aggres- sive response the next time the doorbell rings.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 300, "chunk_index": 350, "id": "081a0bb6-4d04-44e4-904b-ab10d9659d39", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Another territorial behavior is marking (or peeing) all over the house. It differs from house-training accidents in that the “marks” are tiny squirts of urine made in deliberate areas, such as the outer walls or highly trafficked paths. See Chapter 14 for tips on resolving this issue, and use them in combination with the other tech- niques for resolving territorial aggression.\n\nTo make associations to visitors more positive, try the following tips:\n\n» Use a treat cup or clicker to help your puppy associate outsiders with a positive reward. If your puppy is relaxed enough to take a treat, ask the visitor to cast a handful of treats on the floor and play Find It.\n\n» If your puppy barks or acts hyper, stay calm. Shouting or other demonstra- tive corrections add more negative energy to an already tense situation. Stay calm and use a leash to direct your puppy “Back” and behind you. Focus your puppy on a bone or toy until they’ve calmed down, and then introduce them when the situation is appropriate.\n\nIf your situation is already out of hand, purchase a head collar (described in Chapter 5) and leash or station your puppy during arrivals. This collar reduces the negative restraint around the neck and places the puppy’s body in a submissive posture.\n\nHandling an aggressive dog on a chain collar is like holding an angry man’s arms behind their back. It creates fury. Using a head collar or front-clip harness (what is collectively called compassion wear) reduces this tension and communicates structure and discipline passively.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 301, "chunk_index": 351, "id": "e4823b93-3d2c-4bf6-bac0-fc79d5349441", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "Although guarding and herding breeds are genetically prone to territorial aggres- sion, this behavior can be found in any breed. So, if your puppy is threatening anyone, get help immediately. A territorial puppy, no matter the breed, almost always turns into a dangerous dog.\n\nDoes your puppy feel threatened when unfamiliar dogs or people approach? Even outside their territory, do they react aggressively when anyone approaches? If so, they may think it’s their job to defend themselves against the unknown. You must teach them to look to you when their life feels overwhelming.\n\nMany dogs develop a protective relationship when their owners are too relaxed during a walk, as in talking on their cellphone and paying little attention to where they’re going and who they’re with — namely, their puppy. If you want a well-mannered puppy, take an active role in the walk to ensure that they walk respectfully at your side. Otherwise, your dog will roam in front or drag you along and then act aggressively when they encounter unknown situations, people, or other animals.\n\nTo correct protective aggression, you must identify what your puppy’s triggers are (seeing or hearing people at the front door, through the window, or on the street, for example,) and then train and work with your puppy to keep them below their breaking point. Meanwhile, find a treat or toy and reward them until they make a more positive association to the trigger. Here are some other tips you may find helpful:\n\nThese teaching tools control your puppy passively with very little pressure. Neck collars cause oppositional reflex — a drag on your puppy’s neck that makes them feel more frustration, not less.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 301, "chunk_index": 352, "id": "5d0d3c94-60c8-4ccb-a0c1-9b8e7d4e26ad", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "» Train yourself and your puppy. Remember, dog training is like teaching\n\nEnglish as a second language: it will require a lot of patience and understand- ing on your part! Teach your puppy to look to you for the best ideas on how to behave!\n\n» Call a professional if you need help. Is your puppy giving you no respect?\n\nPredatory aggression is an instinctive behavior from pre-domestication, when dogs still had to hunt for survival. Most dogs still possess a chasing instinct. Even though breeders have suppressed the drive to kill in most breeds, some dogs instinctively chase and, in some instances, catch what they’re after.\n\nIf you have a chaser on your hands, rehabilitating them is quite a project. Instincts hold powerful sway over behavior. Focused play gives a chaser an outlet, but you\n\nneed to redirect their impulses with other animals or children to discourage inter- active chasing rituals. For focused predatory games, see Chapter 20; to correct your puppy’s impulses with kids, see the discussion of chasing behavior in Chapter 15.\n\nEvery litter has its shy puppies. These mama’s boys or girls depend on their mom’s wisdom for safety. After these pups move into human homes, they con- tinue to be needy. Their timidity, which surfaces in new situations, may turn into overwhelming fear if you don’t give them proper direction and support. A puppy in this situation may react aggressively during adolescence.\n\nAlthough shyness is a temperamental trait, a puppy’s reactivity can be toned down through routine socialization and exposure to specific stimulations. Dis- cover what motivates this puppy — food, toys, or loving attention — and use it to help your puppy react in a more positive fashion to distressing situations.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 302, "chunk_index": 353, "id": "584d446c-b985-4a83-88c7-0f1166b0e44b", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy shows the early signs of fear when you have company (such as flight, approach-avoid, or protective barking from behind your legs or furniture), you need to be understanding and patient. You can’t correct a fearful puppy; doing so only increases their fear. Use favorite rewards (play Find It and other favorite games) to counter-condition a happy reaction to life’s unexpected occurrences.\n\nA large part of the problem is that the puppy isn’t sure who has control over the situation. To help prevent this problem, you must begin training to teach your puppy to look to you for directions on how to manage unpredictable situations, like someone coming over or meeting a dog on a walk. You must get in the habit of looking at life from your puppy’s perspective and ensure that you remember to give your puppy directions when they’re feeling unsure of themselves or a situation.\n\nCalming your highly sensitive and fearfully reactive puppy can be unnerving for everyone—most of all your puppy! Stay calm and use familiar words and routines. Here is a list of suggestions:\n\n» Encourage everyone to ignore your puppy until the puppy approaches them. Ask people meeting your dog for the first time to shake a treat cup, click and treat, or extend a tasteful snack.\n\nWhen people back away from a threatening puppy, the puppy receives the message that aggression works.\n\n» Remember the phrase hip-to-head when introducing your puppy. Because face-to-face greetings with humans can seem confrontational to puppies, teach your puppy to stand next to visitors to greet them (as I describe in the Say Hello exercise in Chapter 10).", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 303, "chunk_index": 354, "id": "5d8191ba-7071-4681-80dc-04287a84e55d", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "» Use your puppy’s treat cup or a clicker and treats to encourage a more\n\npositive association to unfamiliar situations and people.\n\n» If your puppy feels comforted by being leashed, keep them leashed when you expect company. When you greet the people, let your puppy hold back. Act cheerful and welcoming to set a good example; consider playing Find It around the visitor’s feet if your puppy will participate. Wait to introduce your puppy and give them attention after they’re relaxed with the new situation.\n\nIf you can’t make progress and decide to seek out a professional for help, find one who uses a soft and positive approach. Threatening this type of dog often creates more fear.\n\nAggression between dogs occurs when they perceive their territories as overlap- ping (which can happen anywhere because some dogs think that their territory is extensive) or when a hierarchical struggle takes place in a multidog household. This type of aggression is often exaggerated by well-meaning owners who scream or pull back when their puppies show aggression. Such a reaction only adds to the tension.\n\nOverlapping-territory disputes usually result from a lack of early socialization or from having a neighbor dog who is tense and reactive. If your pup has limited socialization, you must assess how serious it is. A puppy class may be the perfect solution. You, as an owner, need to show your puppy how to act with their species — the best way to do that may be surrounding your puppy with other friendly puppies.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 304, "chunk_index": 355, "id": "194d1564-236b-47d0-a509-db99918f798d", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "In my puppy kindergarten classes, I allow ten minutes of off-lead play, which allows the puppies to socialize with each other and with other people. Socializing your puppy at a young age ensures that they learn to greet, play, and interact nat- urally with other puppies and grow into a dog who’s less reactive to the sight of their species.\n\nIf your puppy is showing territorial aggression — barking frantically at the periphery of your home or yard or unable to calm down with visitors — seek professional help. Unchecked, this behavior becomes far worse as a puppy matures and can lead to all-out aggression.\n\nWhenever a home has two or more dogs, the dogs develop a hierarchical relation- ship. Dogs and puppies need to work out patterns of relating to toys, to food, to passageways, and attention. Though you may expect one dog to control in all areas, the patterns can fluctuate, and the rules can change for each situation. For exam- ple, one pup may be a zealot for squeak toys but less intense about the eating ritual.\n\nMore damage is done when owners try to interfere with the dogs’ established interactions. Though you don’t want to let dogs escalate their reactions, you should not try to equalize every interaction, either. If you sense your puppies/dogs are overreactive, place them on leashes and separate them calmly when the situ- ation is intensifying beyond your comfort level, or tiffs last more than 5 seconds. Ask the dogs to sit, redirect their attention to an object, or encourage them to take rough play outdoors if you have a yard enclosure.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 304, "chunk_index": 356, "id": "ac06265d-2db6-44b6-bfdd-f0358a052484", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "If your dogs are fighting routinely, find a professional to help you sort it out.\n\nI very rarely come across idiopathic aggression, but it does exist. Most, although not all, puppies with this problem are the result of poor breeding from a puppy mill. Idiopathic aggression is identified by erratic or fearful aggression responses in atypical situations, and these traits are seen at a very young age. Idiopathic aggression falls into two general categories:\n\n» Erratic viciousness: At unpredictable intervals, a puppy in this category\n\ngrowls fiercely from their belly. This behavior may happen when the puppy’s owner passes the food bowl, approaches when they’re chewing a toy, or even walks past them. At other times, the dog is perfectly sweet.\n\n» Fear-biting: A puppy in this category shows dramatic fear or a startled bite response to nonthreatening situations such as turning a page of the news- paper or the sudden movement of an arm. These puppies, who are known as fear biters, may also act extremely confused or threatened when strangers approach.\n\nMany well-educated dog people use the term fear biter incorrectly. They don’t realize the big difference between a puppy who bites out of fear and a fear\n\nbiter. A puppy who bites because they’re afraid feels trapped or threatened for a good cause; a fear biter may suddenly fly off the wall and attack you when you turn a page in a book. Don’t automatically assume the worst if someone labels your dog with this term.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 305, "chunk_index": 357, "id": "634eb7fb-bba3-4e86-b73e-296553841754", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "Don’t panic if your puppy occasionally growls at you or barks at the mail carrier. A lot of puppies growl when protecting a food dish or toy, and the guarding instinct is strong in many breeds. You can cure or control these behavioral problems with proper training. Even many biters can be rehabilitated. Dogs with psychotic aggression display severe aggression — bared teeth, hard eyes, a growl that begins in the belly, and a bite response you’d expect from a trained police dog. These personality disturbances are seen very early, usually by four months of age.\n\nIdiopathic aggression is both frightening and tragic because nothing can be done to alter the dog’s development. Unfortunately, their fate was sealed by the people who ran the puppy mill they came from or who bred them irresponsibly, and it’s often the result of extreme early stress or inbreeding. In my career, I’ve seen only a handful of idiopathic puppies, and all were purchased from unknown or suspi- cious breeders. If you suspect that your puppy is displaying erratic viciousness or fear-biting, speak to your breeder and veterinarian immediately and call a spe- cialist to analyze the situation.\n\nTo determine how serious the aggressive behavior is, you need to consider the follow- ing factors:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 306, "chunk_index": 358, "id": "44802a97-6690-42dc-95e0-f54296ab2df0", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "Breed: Do you have a more instinctively driven dog — a sled dog, terrier, or guard- ing breed? These breeds have a greater propensity toward reactive responses like aggression when they feel threatened, because they’re not genetically programmed to look to people for interpretation. Breeds from the Herding and Sporting groups are genetically programmed to look to people for direction, so seeing a 17-week-old Golden Retriever, known for its passive nature, growling over their dish is more alarming than seeing a protective dog growl over their possessions. Neither dog should growl, but a growling Golden indicates that you may have a deeper problem than just a breed-inherent trait. Research the breed. Recognize your pup’s personality. Understanding their natural inclinations and working through them at the earliest age possible can help you prevent problems.\n\nAge: A very young puppy should not show serious signs of protecting food and toys. Though an occasional play growl is normal, hard stares and belly growls are causes for concern; consult with a professional to determine how you ought to han- dle your situation. As your puppy matures, their hormones will release, and they may begin to use more assertive reactions (like jumping up, growling, or nipping) to communicate. Though normal, this is still cause for concern. A puppy who chal- lenges people is showing a sharp lack of social inhibition that can lead to a lifetime pattern of confrontation. Call a professional for your puppy if the pattern of aggres- sion escalates or continues.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 306, "chunk_index": 359, "id": "ca52f765-3342-4b58-bd7e-0ec0b22f78ac", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "Temperament: Aggression is an emotional reaction when an animal is frustrated or fearful. All puppies determine early whether you’re giving direction or taking it. If you’re not considered authoritative, your puppy will take charge of their own life. As they grow, they become more mindful of sounds and stimulation and may often use defensive displays like barking or aggression to keep their space (your house- hold) under tight surveillance. Of course, passive puppies can show a similar type of aggression. When a passive puppy is neglected or untrained, they may assume self- protective behavior in reaction to changes.\n\nEarly play patterns: If you bring up your puppy on games of rough wrestling and tug-of-war, they may become aggressive during adolescence. These challenge games can set the stage for larger confrontations, especially if the puppy’s training is ignored.\n\nCorrective techniques: If a young puppy is subjected to heavy-handed corrections early in their life, they learn self-control through fear, not through understanding. For example, if you slap your puppy for grabbing a sock, they may grab the sock less often when they’re with you, but they’ll be more protective of the sock after it’s obtained (known as possession aggression).\n\nIf you have a puppy who shows aggression when resting, keep them off your bed or couch. You may not think it’s a big deal, but an aggressive dog thinks that these high sleeping grounds are their right to be defended, not a privilege. If you can’t keep them off your bed, crate or station them nearby. (See Chapter 11 for stationing tips.) If they growl as you attempt to relocate them, call a pro.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 307, "chunk_index": 360, "id": "b805ea8b-bfb8-4ae1-a52e-3de55e17702d", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Most puppies are pretty quiet until they’re five to seven months old, when their grown-up hormones start flowing, so don’t be giddy if your 3-month old puppy doesn’t make a peep. Start these tips early on to prevent a lifelong barking habit, and remember that puppies sound off for a lot of reasons — primarily because they’re excited or stimulated but also because they’re just plain bored.\n\nThe first step in teaching your puppy not to bark is to recognize the impossibility of that statement. Puppies bark like kids talk, and though some are quieter than others, that’s all relative. Here’s a more realistic goal:\n\n1. Condition your puppy to everyday sounds. 2. Socialize your puppy to the people and places that they’ll meet and see throughout their lifetime.\n\n3. Teach more appropriate self-soothing activities to help your puppy cope with slow days or times when they’ll be alone. 4. Teach your puppy to quiet down on cue.\n\nA chronic barker is a real headache. How you handle your puppy, especially as they’re initially testing their vocalizations, will dictate how much barking you’ll hear over the next decade-plus. Your reactions should depend on what’s prompt- ing them to bark in the first place, and the following sections address the different possibilities.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 307, "chunk_index": 361, "id": "b514691f-caee-4b08-8018-2f6542d85d4c", "word_count": 211, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 274 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies have remarkably acute hearing and will alert to any sound they hear within earshot of their den (also known as your home). Barking is their way of alerting you to something that’s approaching. This trait was a key part of the dog- human bond that’s not as necessary as it used to be. One way to help your puppy condition to everyday noises so that they’ll be less likely to alert to everything they see or hear is to condition and desensitize them using food and fun. For example, to prevent your puppy from barking every time someone comes to the door or walks by, have treats and toys at the ready and use them to distract your puppy. Soon your puppy will recognize the noise as part of their daily routine, whereas yelling at them for barking will reinforce that something scary was going down.\n\nMake recordings of everyday sounds like the doorbell, the garage door opening, the elevator, or footsteps in the hallway — whatever might or does alert your puppy. Play these recordings at low volume to desensitize your puppy to the sound while playing or feeding your puppy so that they’re accustomed to the noise and associate each with good things!\n\nThe cardinal sin when rehabilitating a barker is yelling. When you yell, your puppy thinks you’re barking too, which leads to — you guessed it — more barking. To solve your problem, stay cool and follow the advice in this section.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 308, "chunk_index": 362, "id": "1a1b0ede-e2cf-4e4e-8a87-8c924425aff0", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "In Chapter 9, I talk about the importance of socializing your puppy and how to do it. Nothing could be more critical in helping your puppy feel safe in your home (which in turn leads to less alert-barking) than socializing them to everyday rou- tines and people. Use treats and happy talk when introducing your puppy to your daily cast of characters, from your neighbors and friends to delivery people of every persuasion (postal, pizza, and beyond!). Here is a hit list of other essential socialization scenarios:\n\n» Anyone or anything approaching your car: Condition your puppy to see people and other animals approach or pass the car while you’re driving and when you’re parked. Use treats or chews or busy toys, and have people — like gas and fast food attendants and children — toss treats into the car when they approach to speak with you.\n\n» Delivery people, dog walkers, and yard workers: These helpers are staples in our lives and come in all shapes and sizes. Ask them to pay the puppy toll each time they visit, tossing a super prize to your puppy each time they enter — a handful of high-value treats, a busy toy stuffed with a super-savory treat, or a tasty chew set aside for special occasions.\n\n» Plumbers, carpenters, construction workers, and so on: Whether you\n\ninvite working folks in to fix up your home (which I recommend you do if at all possible, just to socialize your puppy) or visit with some in the neighborhood, socialize your puppy to the whirring and the banging and the other (some- times random yet familiar) noises of manual labor.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 309, "chunk_index": 363, "id": "74ef05ea-ad03-4b3a-bbfc-8dd3e529d10c", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "» Neighbors (both kids and grown-ups): Whether you live in the city or the suburbs, you’ll be surrounded by neighbors who sound, look, and act differently than you do. Get your puppy used to everyone by holding a puppy party as soon as you’re able. Ask whether you can bring your puppy over to watch the children play. Knowing that your puppy won’t be alert-barking every time they hear a ball bounce or see a bike go by should be encouragement enough to get started early!\n\n» Neighborhood dogs and cats: Introduce your puppy to neighborhood dogs and cats as early as you’re able to. Because they’ll spend their entire lives separated in a zoo-like existence, it’s far better that they exchange friendly barks, greetings, and get-togethers for occasional romps than it is for them to establish a defensive relationship.\n\nPuppies bark when they’re bored and have nothing else going on. They bark to get a rise out of you or to communicate with another pet or the barking dog down the\n\nhall or across the street. Your immediate goal, whether it’s preventing barking or redirecting an already formed habit, is to find another way for your puppy to self- soothe. One tried-and-tested method is to provide your puppy with busy toys and feeding tubes — hollowed-out bones or plastic, chewable container toys — that your puppy will have to chew and work on to get their food. I realize that might sound cruel to you, but dogs are programmed to hunt, and after a few days of working fervently to get their food from a chewable feeding tube, the activity will be a more pleasant and exhausting habit than barking their head off — so much so that habitual chewing will take the place of chronic barking!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 309, "chunk_index": 364, "id": "0a14b7ad-f8c0-4cc1-8d53-aa134646ba9b", "word_count": 298, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 387 } }, { "page_content": "To teach your puppy how to settle down on cue, teach them what you expect them to do when you say “Shhh.”\n\nTo develop your puppy’s understanding of “Shhh,” practice the following seps two or three times a day for a week, independently of any real-life barking situation:\n\n1. Take a handful of your puppy’s food or favorite treats and call them over to you.\n\n2. Line the treats on the counter, in sight but out of reach. 3. As you turn to face your puppy, say “Shhh” as you lure them into a sitting position.\n\n4. If they jump or whine or — heaven forbid — jump at you, lift the treat above your head and wait until they’re sitting quietly and looking at you to reward them with it.\n\n5. To reward them, say “Find it” and toss the treat on the ground by their paws.\n\nThis step focuses them on the floor and away from other goings-on.\n\n6. Practice three to five repetitions, and then move to a new spot and repeat the activity.\n\nRead the barking scenarios in the following section to see how best to handle your puppy in the moment.\n\nDoes your puppy alert at everything they see and hear? If so, nothing will go unno- ticed at your home — bikers, the neighborhood kids, or lively creatures passing through your yard. Practice the conditioning and socializing steps in the previous\n\nsection, “Developing your puppy’s Off switch,” and provide lots of busy toys to ensure that the next decade is peaceful and quiet. Here are some additional tips:\n\n» Avoid leaving your puppy alone outdoors for long periods. Unsupervised confinement often breeds boredom and territorial behavior. Put those two together and you’re likely to end up with a barkaholic.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 310, "chunk_index": 365, "id": "c2a5b70a-3256-437f-addf-53285acddf17", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "» Block off areas that your puppy uses, or might use, as lookout posts, such as the front yard or a living room couch or windowsill. If they’re a night guard, crate them or secure them on a lead in your room at night, giving them three feet of freedom — just enough to lie comfortably on their bed. » Remember that screaming at your puppy is translated into barking. When you yell, you’re reinforcing the barking and supporting your puppy’s role as border patrol. Anytime you see or hear your puppy start to perk up, call them back to you using a treat cup or a dragging leash (refer to Chapter 5) if they won’t focus. Say “Shhh” and ensure quiet as instructed in the previous section before rewarding them.\n\nDon’t’ buy battery-operated barking collars. Aside from being outlawed for cru- elty in many countries, they’re virtually ineffective. Even the products that claim to be cruelty-free often misfire; all types leave your dog, at best, confused or scared, and, at worst, savvy to when it’s on, when it’s off, and when the battery has gone kaput.\n\nMost puppies test their barking prowess around four to six months of age, in the form of bratty barking. They bark when you’re focused on something else: the dishes, computer, or dinner table, for example. Prepare yourself: The first bark is always the most precious, but believe me: The barking-for-attention gag loses its glow fast. If you respond to a barking puppy, you end up with, at best, a barking dog or worse — a dog with separation stress. Take charge of this situation before it becomes an all-out habit. Here are some tips:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 311, "chunk_index": 366, "id": "6f8b57d2-2603-417d-93b4-e9ea3abc2fdf", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "» Be proactive. Give your puppy lots of tasty chews and food-stuffed hollow toys to keep them busy. Keep to the schedule laid out in Chapter 6, making sure you’ve given your puppy not only a tiring play romp but a midday nap too. A tired puppy is a yappy puppy.\n\n» Focus on good behavior. Reconnect warmly to your puppy whenever they’re chewing a toy, exploring calmly, or resting on their bed. Give them a sense of how to get your attention positively.\n\n» Ignore the barking if you can, and never yell. Your puppy translates\n\nshouting as — you guessed it — more barking. Earplugs help.\n\n» Interfere without attention. If you must address the barkfest, do so discreetly by entering the zone without eye contact or notice. Generally speaking, being in the same space will calm any fussing, but regardless, wait until your puppy has settled to leash them up for a walkabout, or place them in their crate or a quiet room with a bone to redirect their angst.\n\nPuppies mount for a whole host of reasons, and none of them is wrong or bad. Mounting, which is gender neutral, generally starts around five to seven months of age. Puppies mount because it feels good, new, and different — it’s a fun way for them to self-soothe. And yes, boys will mount things as a general response to their surging sex hormones, but this is only one of many situations that cause this behavior. Female dogs mount, too: In this respect, mounting is used to displace tension or test rank. So, don’t go off the deep end if your puppy — male or female — is scaling your pillows, your leg, or your neighbor’s Chihuahua.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 311, "chunk_index": 367, "id": "06438231-17de-4783-b4c5-8f4628a7c594", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "If mounting is all-consuming, you can dial it back with one or more of these techniques:\n\n» Calm interference: Leave freedom lines on your puppy indoors (4-foot) and outdoors (25-foot) to enable gentle interference, as described in Chapter 5. » Counter-conditioning: If you notice your puppy’s stimulation rising, stop and\n\nplay a high-energy game, like fetching a toy or playing tug.\n\n» Redirection: If your puppy starts mounting, call them away from their focus and redirect them to a different activity, like practicing a trick or chewing a bone.\n\n» Blocking: Stand between your puppy and the center of their momentary affection. Pair your blocking with redirection and positive reinforcement lessons, using treats, toys, and attention.\n\n» Noting the triggers: Try to take note of the events that trigger the mounting, and begin a training regimen so that you’re able to direct your puppy at these times. Puppies are a lot like kids: They need the structure of socialization and lessons to instill civility.\n\nIf your puppy reacts aggressively at any point during these steps, terminate the corrections and seek professional help. Your puppy may act out because they per- ceive the situation as a power struggle: Ask yourself, are you staring at your puppy? Your puppy may observe your reaction as a confrontation.\n\nDigging occurs for a multitude of reasons: It’s a great way to cool off or alleviate isolation stress or boredom, but it can also be a predatory reaction to sensing underground critters or (for many creatures) just plain fun.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 312, "chunk_index": 368, "id": "efeefd07-95d2-4ab6-a771-c300b4ee7556", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "You either have a digger or you don’t. If your puppy realizes that digging is a great pastime or a satisfying self-soothing behavior, it can be tough to redirect. A good approach is to be proactive, teaching your puppy alternative self-soothing activi- ties, like chewing and searching for food in a hollow bone, toy, or puzzle feeder and creating a Go Dig spot whenever your puppy feels the need to dig.\n\nYou’ll be hard-pressed to teach your puppy not to dig, but you can coach them where to dig when the impulse strikes them! Here’s how:\n\n1. Pick one area where your puppy can dig to their heart’s content, whether that spot is around your house or in a park (if you live in an apartment or a condo). You can also buy your pup a sandbox to give their digging some satisfaction. 2. Bring toys and treats to hide when you model how to dig by digging yourself in front of your puppy. Don’t forget the garden gloves!\n\n3. Go to your puppy’s digging area with them every day, instructing “Go dig!” 4. Have a dig-fest. Dig with your puppy and cheer them on. 5. If you catch your puppy digging somewhere they shouldn’t be, call out to them and redirect them to their spot with the cue words “Go dig!”\n\nSpraying your puppy with a hose or setting mousetraps is cruel, and I don’t encourage those correction techniques. A more humane method that works is to place a couple of piles of your puppy’s stool (provided they don’t like it) in the hole with a dose of oregano oil or red-pepper flakes before covering it up.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 313, "chunk_index": 369, "id": "88aab5e7-5c87-4616-9dec-efc33c3a7e8b", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Are you a gardener? Well, if you are and you let your puppy watch your garden, guess what? That’s right — monkey see, monkey do. I suggest that you place your puppy indoors when you garden. It’s just too tempting for them after seeing you dig in one area all day. Remember, dig together only at your puppy’s designated digging spot.\n\nWhether your puppy is a puller or just stops dead in their tracks, the result is a no-win situation for everyone involved, where walking your puppy ends up being stressful and their social skills suffer. What’s a puppy parent to do?! In this sec- tion, I tell you how to overcome leash resistance.\n\nThe first and most important question is how old is your puppy? Young puppies (younger than four or five months old) don’t like to stray too far from their den — also known as your home. Positive outings should be short to begin with and should be shaped with food. You can use your puppy’s meal to motivate them to stay with you.\n\nTo start teaching your puppy to walk with you, follow these steps:\n\n1. Let your puppy drag their leash around inside the house or apartment to get them used to having it on.\n\n2. Teach them to follow your lead by shaking your treat cup or luring them with a treat or toy. Gradually extend the distance between each reinforcement. 3. Begin to lift the leash and use it to guide your puppy through familiar rooms in your home.\n\n4. If they resist you, simply kneel in front of them (still facing forward) and tap the ground with your finger while you shake the treat cup or clap your hands to urge them along. Reward them as soon as they reach you!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 313, "chunk_index": 370, "id": "09df4c3a-795d-4fbe-be89-b853656fb95a", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "5. Using a head collar or front-clip harness, use incentives to urge them to walk with you. Don’t tug or drag your puppy, because they will resist following you even more.\n\nIf your puppy pulls you when you put them on the leash, you have a no-win situ- ation on your hands. The more you pull back, the harder your puppy will dig in their heels, and no matter how strong you think you are, you’re fighting a battle that you’re never going to win. Keep these concepts in mind:\n\n» Oppositional reflex rules the walk. Your puppy isn’t dumb! When your\n\npuppy pulls away from your iron grip, they’re responding to an instinct called oppositional reflex. If I caught you by the shirt sleeve and began pulling you down the road, you’d pull back too.\n\n» Posture sends a message. Leash strain puts your puppy’s body into a compromised and confrontational pose, making other dogs and people nervous when they see your dog approaching. This creates a vicious cycle\n\nFIGURE 16-1: Walk forward, turning as your puppy pulls, and then praise them as they catch up.\n\nbecause the dogs who view your dog automatically assume that they’re aggressive and act defensively, which may then trigger your otherwise friendly puppy to be scared or reactive.\n\n» A relaxed hold on the leash: Almost any puppy would be happier if you’d\n\nkeep the leash relatively loose on walks, but that doesn’t happen by magic — someone has to train a puppy how to manage it.\n\nSo, do you want to teach your puppy how to walk on a loose leash? I thought you’d never ask:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 314, "chunk_index": 371, "id": "947c6967-37f3-4c8e-a78d-b672d73a57e0", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "1. Work in your home first, then your neighborhood or yard. Gather treats or food. Hold a 6-foot leash in your hand or secure it to your waist.\n\n2. Instruct “Wait” before you start moving, and drop treats at your feet and say “Find it.”\n\n3. Step forward and walk three to five steps. If your puppy pulls, stop. 4. Wait until your puppy stops pulling (which may take a few minutes). The moment they do, click or mark the moment with a word like “Good.” Then reward your puppy by saying “Find It” and dropping the treat at your feet. 5. Continue this exercise for days until your puppy stops and looks back to you\n\nwhen you stop. Gradually lengthen your steps, and add a turn.\n\n6. Walk in a straight line. (See Figure 16-1a.) If your puppy races ahead get their attention by clapping your thigh or calling their name and then turn around and walk in the opposite direction. (See Figure 16-1b.)\n\n7. Verbally praise your puppy for catching up to you (“Good puppy!”). Repeat these turnabouts until your dog is predictably focusing on you.\n\nIf your puppy plops down on the sidewalk and refuses to walk with you (don’t you love walking a mule?), try to avoid the turn-and-face routine, remember not to drag them, and try never, ever, to pick them up! These actions reward their resis- tance. You also don’t want to acknowledge your puppy’s resistance with coddling, or else you’ll create a dog who is plagued by learned helplessness. Coddling won’t teach them how to follow along.\n\n» Plop down wherever you are. You read that right! Kneel or plop down and pretend to find something fascinating on the ground. When your puppy saunters over, act truly happy and surprised and reward them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 315, "chunk_index": 372, "id": "f7e16925-a75d-46e1-8d93-a520689e3e6f", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "» Use your puppy’s treat cup effectively (preferably filled with your puppy’s meal or high-value treats). Shake the cup as you take gradually more steps between each reward. Say “Find it” and drop the treats by your foot each time. » Liven up the walk: Tie your puppy’s favorite toy on a rope or bring their play pole out and turn the outing into a chase-and-grab walk until they’re more comfortable being both on a leash and away from their den.\n\nSome puppies eat the strangest things, from grass to crayons to socks. Should this worry you? Well, yes, a little. Swallowing a nondigestible object, should it get stuck in their intestines, can be life-threatening, requiring surgery to remove (which is in itself a trauma). What can you do to prevent your puppy from swal- lowing anything within reach? Here are six helpful tips:\n\n» Don’t sweat the small stuff. If your puppy is grazing on grass, sticks, and pebbles, you need to be mindful, but don’t go bonkers. Any hyper reactions will only draw more attention to your puppy’s activity, making them more likely to graze again. Instead, teach them the puppy version of Leave It (see Chapter 11), and take toys and treats with you on your outings. If you toss, drag, or play with treats and toys on your walks, your puppy will be less likely to search for random mouthables.\n\n» To a puppy, any attention is good attention. If you focus on your puppy when they’re mouthing, running away from you, or eating an unacceptable item, your body language and actions are saying “prize envy!” Your puppy will likely grab more things or, worse, grab the forbidden items only when you’re not looking.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 316, "chunk_index": 373, "id": "c72b7bf7-530d-4494-9821-5f7782fea40f", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "» Litter the yard. First place balls and toys and other distractions around the yard, or string up ropes for your puppy to grab and tug. When you go out together, direct your puppy to these activities and play together.\n\n» Teach Bring. Your puppy can learn fetching games early on; use multiple toys when they’re young so that you’re always seen as having the better toy.\n\n» Never chase or grab objects from your puppy. Puppies love a chase — they always feel in control, even if it ends up in your favor. Chasing a puppy may lead to gulping the evidence the moment they perceive your interest in taking their prize.\n\n» Keep the house clean. The surest way to prevent your puppy from grabbing non-digestible items is to keep them out of reach. That’s easier said than done, for sure, but way less costly than an operation.\n\nSome puppies love squeak toys; others gut them. If your puppy tears or ingests objects, eliminate those types of toys or bones from their toy box. Find toys that your puppy enjoys playing with and that are durable to stand up to their ideas of fun.\n\nPuppies hate separation. If they had their way, they’d follow you to the ends of the earth. But, alas, they can’t. Puppies suffering from FOBA (fear of being alone) have varying degrees of separation stress. Although few puppies start with full- blown separation anxiety, many unfortunately end up there. To ensure that your puppy learns to cope with isolation, learn the three levels of isolation issues, in growing severity, so that you can analyze your puppy’s reactions and deal with the symptoms before they get out of hand.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 317, "chunk_index": 374, "id": "e160eb01-743f-4e4d-809c-ca99766001bf", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "Many puppies feel isolation anxiety. They may whine or bark when you leave them alone or isolated in a crate, especially during the first few minutes. These puppies may begin to cling to you when you’re home, nudge, lean in, or paw for reassur- ance, sometimes just seconds after you’ve stopped petting them. Many prefer accompaniment when going outside or into another room. What you may think is bonding can quickly evolve into a more serious attachment disorder if confidence- building measures are not taken. (See the later section “Helping a puppy with isolation issues.”).\n\nIf your puppy is stressing when left in a crate, especially in the first days of sepa- rating from their litter, consider a Snuggle Puppy toy, as described in Chapter 5, to give them a sense of comfort when you can’t be near them.\n\nOne level above anxiety is distress, defined as a growing sense of anxiety when left alone, including hyper-excitement when you’re preparing to go as well as when you come back. You may notice a change in your reaction to your puppy’s behavior as well — from adoration to feeling guilty or resentful.\n\nPuppies who are distressed often eliminate or chew destructively when left alone. Never, and I say never — repeat, NEVER — discipline a puppy after the fact, espe- cially if you suspect distress. Your corrections will be paired with the separation, making each separation from you all the more stressful. At that pace, your puppy is at risk of going from a puppy who isn’t crazy about departures, but can never- theless cope, to one with full-blown separation anxiety.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 317, "chunk_index": 375, "id": "18ccce1b-4cd0-49e1-8049-f0da05199388", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies who turn your separations into high drama don’t love you more or less than the puppies who can rest calmly in a crate while you’re gone. Because your comings and goings are a part of everyday life, focus on conditioning your puppy to be alone using the steps listed in the later section “Helping a puppy with isola- tion issues.”\n\nProperly defined, true separation anxiety reflects a full-blown panic state every time a dog or puppy is left alone — a state that’s soothed only when one of their loved ones is present. Symptoms include a pronounced reaction to anything that hints of departure — from simple readying routines like dressing, bathroom rou- tines, or even the sound of the car keys — to chewing, clawing, barking, pottying, stress pacing, window escaping, and frenzied greeting rituals when reunited. Although a discussion of true separation anxiety is well beyond the scope of this book, if you suspect that your puppy is far gone, reach out to the woman who has become the separation anxiety guru here in the states, Malena DeMartini. Her books, lectures, and personalized digital lessons are spot-on: Check her out in print and online at https://malenademartini.com.\n\nPuppies with separation anxiety cannot be easily isolated when you can’t be home. These dogs grow increasingly frantic in the crate, pacing, whining, and attempt- ing to escape to the point of doing physical harm to the paws or mouth or entire body.\n\nYour veterinarian may recommend a veterinarian behaviorist to help you analyze your puppy’s condition and prescribe medication to alleviate their separation anxiety. These drugs can be true lifesavers, helping your puppy feel relief as you work through the steps listed in the next section.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 318, "chunk_index": 376, "id": "4395bc9b-7e33-4716-9191-6a1e614839a4", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Sometimes, puppies who stress when isolated and those who are just restless and poorly socialized to household etiquette share many of the same symptoms — so how do you know the difference, and what can you do to help? Generally, though not always, puppies who show separation stress fall into one of two personality types (see the following list) and consistently repeat behaviors when left alone, whereas hyper or frustrated puppies cycle through good days and bad, depending on their age and their daily sleep-and-exercise routines:\n\n» Passive puppy: This puppy is sweet but undirected and needy. No matter the amount of affection you offer, it never seems to be enough. What they need in order to feel more secure in their world is more direction, not more attention, but because they’re not getting it, they impulsively check in with you, time and time again.\n\nTheir constant interaction speaks volumes: Their constant vigil to get attention is a sign of their insecurity: “Do you love me? It’s been seven seconds; do you still love me?” Although your puppy adores you, what they need most is the direction to help them organize their behavior in your home. Without guidance, this type of puppy is prone to a virtual panic attack when left alone in the house. » Assertive puppy: Left to their own devices, confident and bossy puppies like to organize the household activity, so they need to learn their manners and be trained to listen to their people. Headstrong, they’re often unimpressed by you — until, that is, you leave the den (your home) and they’re trapped inside. When that happens, frustration anxiety sets in.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 319, "chunk_index": 377, "id": "0d6b8ff2-e1b0-4fd3-8bd9-ebfcfe702d1c", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Separation anxiety demands a multipronged solution that involves training and, often, medication when their self-soothing and calming reactions are interrupted. If you need help with training, get it. In the meantime, here are some tips:\n\n» Don’t waste your energy on correcting your puppy after the fact. You’ll only make your problems much worse. Your corrections get linked to your arrival, adding another reason for your puppy to stress while you’re out. » Think of it this way: When you leave your home, you’re trapping your puppy inside. They can’t get out if they want to — and they will want to. Puppies (like people) want to explore sights and sounds. Your puppy cannot snack, hop online, or text a friend either, so the best choice is to teach your\n\npuppy to rest or chew while you’re out. Left to their own devices and given more freedom than they can manage, they will get nasty and frustrated, which leads to barking, chewing (items as well as themselves), and marking.\n\n» Up the play and training routines to build your puppy’s confidence. Play and training go together — use words including Sit, Down, Place, Find It, Come, and Stay before you toss your puppy’s toys and offer food or treats. Work on tethering stays around the house. Take your puppy out for random adventures and play-train your puppy while you spend time together. These word directions and reassurances will help steady their nerves when you’re gone. (For more on training strategies, see the age-appropriate training chapter for your puppy in Part 3 of this book.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 319, "chunk_index": 378, "id": "5c02e17a-d78e-4217-8082-dd0e4277a317", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "» Learn to earn. Teach your puppy how to earn more attention by performing simple, fun routines. Make a list of possibilities, like Get Your Toy, Sit and Stay for ten seconds, or Find It games. Although giving your puppy attention whenever and however they ask for it might seem natural to you, just ask yourself what your puppy will do when you’re not there to satisfy their attention itch the second they have it?\n\n» Create steady come-and-go patterns. Leave your puppy alone a lot, even if it’s just to go to the bathroom or answer the door. Sure, your puppy will fuss — most do — but don’t pay a lot of attention to it. If they follow you to the bathroom or gate, say “Stay” and block their following with your leg. If your puppy whines or barks while you’re gone, that’s their issue; ignore them until they’ve calmed down. That means no eye contact, petting, or nurturing until they’re self-soothing or coping. Gradually and mindfully increase your departure lengths from 30 seconds to a minute to two minutes and then to five minutes to ten minutes. (For more on practicing departures, see the Stay exercises in Chapter 13.)\n\n» Establish a leave-alone routine. Keep in mind that dogs are by their nature calm, restful animals. Crepuscular (versus diurnal or nocturnal) means that they rest 75 percent of the day and are most awake at dawn and dusk. To create sleeping patterns in keeping with their natural rhythm and to reduce the separating stress they feel, follow a few calming routines:\n\nDrown the silence. Puppies don’t like silence: It often makes them antsy and unnerved as they’re left to interpret every noise they hear. Leave on reggae or soft rock, or buy specially composed dog music to mask the sounds of silence.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 320, "chunk_index": 379, "id": "23f47aba-c379-43ac-ace6-ad0330e54eb8", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "Create a den vibe. Ideally, leave your puppy in a darkened room, like a mudroom, kitchen or bedroom, pulling the blinds and playing gentling music to drown out noise and encourage your puppy to rest while you’re out. Crates or small pens are good for puppies who’ll also be working on strengthening their bladder muscles.\n\nCondition your puppy to rest while you’re home. Use the sleep schedule outlined in Chapter 7 to establish resting and feeding times, and use your puppy’s crate for both, especially if your puppy is reluctant to settle during those times.\n\nLeave your puppy a favorite chew toy. Rub the toy between your palms so that it smells like you.\n\nIf you routinely go out for long stretches, either come home every three hours or hire someone to take your puppy out. Though it’s okay to leave your puppy for two separate 3-hour blocks of time in a row, any more may result in crate accidents or, worse, your puppy may develop isolation anxiety. If long departures are the norm, consider a pen, an enclosed room, or daycare. (See Chapter 8 for more on daycare.)\n\nDon’t give in to “pet me” solicitations. The petting-on-demand ritual makes being alone even more difficult. Going from lots of attention to no attention at all is too sharp a contrast for a pup. When they’re alone, your puppy longs for com- panionship. Because watching the soaps or chewing fingernails isn’t an option for them, they instead may devour your couch.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 320, "chunk_index": 380, "id": "c3371434-bd10-4199-9662-6408c0c3c978", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy is prone to destruction when you leave, make them a party bag: Put a selection of treats, toys, and chewies in a brown paper lunch bag, crumple it closed, and place it in the middle of the floor just as you walk out the door. Even though it won’t resolve their anxiety, the party bag will give them something to focus on for the first few minutes after your departure, which is when most of the tension happens.\n\nDo you have a tinkler — a puppy who pees when they’re overexcited or (on the flip side) scared or submissive? It isn’t uncommon, and it goes away faster if you fol- low the formula outlined next. Most puppies grow out of this stage within weeks or months.\n\nTinkling isn’t a conscious act — puppies do it because they’re overexcited or anx- ious. As a dog-to-dog interaction, pee is a signal of respect and awe. Discipline only makes the problem worse.\n\nIf tinkling has become part of the greeting ritual, ignore your pup until they’re calm, see if you can take them out or get them to focus on a toy or treat-led game. If your puppy is in the crate, ignore them until they’ve calmed down, and then walk backward (with your back facing your puppy) into their crate space, open the latch — still without making any eye contact — and direct your puppy to their potty area. Wait until they’re playing with a toy or focusing on a treat to greet them calmly.\n\nTo reassure your puppy that your gaze is loving, pair your glances with food and favorite objects.\n\nKneel to pet them rather than lean over. Review Chapter 6 to recall how your pos- ture affects your puppy’s behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 321, "chunk_index": 381, "id": "4c4a011a-3f07-4b92-ba89-c4c6fff0a7e9", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Here’s are a few more tips to help your stimulated tinkler, especially if it happens with visitors:\n\n» Ask any person who excites or concerns your puppy to ignore them\n\nunless the puppy approaches them. Give them a stash of high-value treats, and encourage them to dole them out by tossing them on the floor and playing Find It.\n\n» As the interactions at the door and with select people become less stimulating, see if you can approach the puppy without an incident. Begin to engage the puppy at the moment while continuing to avoid eye contact or directly facing your puppy, which may feel more like a confronta- tion than comfort.\n\n» Does the tinkling happen when your puppy is overexcited or frustrated? See if you can calm down. If you’re too hyper, they get scared; if you’re too frustrated or angry, they also get nervous. It’s just the way some puppies are: They know when you’re out of control.\n\n» Disciplinary actions are ineffective and make matters much worse. Forgive your puppy now — they don’t understand why you’re mad.\n\nUse treat cups and favorite objects to engage your puppy when they’re nervous or excited. Ask a guest to shake treats from a cup and to kneel versus bending over to pet your puppy.\n\nWhether you soothe or admonish them, your attention reinforces the moment’s mood, whether that’s excitement or fear. Stay calm no matter what’s going on, and focus your puppy on an object or a food-led activity.\n\nDeciphering dog food labels so you can choose a food\n\nConditioning your puppy to enjoy veterinary visits and", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 322, "chunk_index": 382, "id": "03ec6b33-07f4-43b9-936f-a1f14b8ea390", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "To keep your puppy healthy and injury free, prevention is worth a pound of\n\ncure. The good news: You’re in charge of your puppy’s health and well- being. Taking a proactive role in your puppy’s health can prevent a lot of disease and heartache. One way to accomplish this task is to keep your puppy well-fed, active, and clean.\n\nFifty years ago, humans knew little of their own nutritional needs, let alone the needs of their dogs or puppies. Commercialized dog food wasn’t even common- place until the early 1970s. Nowadays, you may feel the need for Chemistry 101 to decipher the label on your puppy’s food. This chapter helps explain the mystery surrounding puppy food. When you’re finished reading this chapter, you can answer the questions you weren’t sure who to ask.\n\nPaying attention to your puppy’s overall health doesn’t stop there! Maintaining their outer appearance not only makes your puppy look and feel good but also helps you discover any ailments before they become serious. Grooming — including brushing, nail clipping, haircuts, and, yes, even dental care — are just some of the\n\nways to keep your puppy in tip-top shape. I’ll help you figure out just how to keep track of your puppy’s needs while teaching you how to help them enjoy all your prods and pokes! Of course, the other way to stay on top of your pup’s good health is to make sure you join forces with a caring vet who can help your puppy grow into a healthy adult dog.\n\nAnd then this chapter keeps on giving: In it, you’ll learn how to incorporate diet, fun, and fitness into your daily routine — and what age-appropriate activity you can do with your puppy. I also cover everything from how to gussy up your puppy to how to prevent illness through daily maintenance.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 325, "chunk_index": 383, "id": "3bed12d8-11d7-4aeb-9e6e-53a49f3916dd", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "A healthy puppy is a happy puppy, which, for you, means less chewing, more cooperation, consistent potty habits, and a calmer attitude overall.\n\nPuppy Nutrition 101: Your Puppy’s Changing Dietary Needs\n\nFeeding your puppy the wrong diet affects their health and their behavior. The wrong diet can increase your puppy’s susceptibility to disease, infection, and, possibly, nervous/aggressive disorders.\n\nYou have a myriad of choices about what to feed your pup: store-bought or home- made, premium brand or run-of-the-mill, wet or dry. When nearly every brand on the market claims to be the best, how do you decide? Don’t worry. I’ve done some investigative reporting to get the scoop on just what makes one puppy food different from the rest. Here I explain the ingredients in plain English and then help you decide what the best diet options are for you and your puppy.\n\nAs your puppy ages, they’ll need a different balance of nutrition to keep them healthy. Like humans, older dogs need less protein and fewer calories.\n\nDeciding what to feed your puppy is a major to-do these days. Though all dog food manufacturers are sworn to meet your puppy’s nutritional needs, the amount of food you’ll need to give your puppy in order to meet their minimum daily require- ment ( or MDR) differs greatly: a fact that matters if you’re the one holding the poop bag. The ingredients they use, how they mix it, and even the tricks they use to make it palatable to your precious puppy are what set one diet apart from another. Some pet food companies take great care to use top-of-the-line ingredi- ents that most dogs can easily digest; other companies do not.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 326, "chunk_index": 384, "id": "d1e7ec05-670b-4ef8-8587-01facc6df875", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "How do you know if the diet you’ve chosen suits your puppy? Ask these questions: Do they enjoy eating? How are their poops — firm and regular? Is their coat shiny and their nose slightly moist? Those are all good signs. Another significant sign is their weight and growth rate: It’s important not to overfeed your puppy, because it throws the nutrients in a well-balanced diet out of whack. Excessive weight or rapid growth spurts, which can be encouraged by overfeeding, can put pressure on their developing joints, bones, and muscles, causing skeletal pressure that may haunt their adulthood.\n\nOne way to judge your puppy’s weight is to feel their spine and rib cage: Though you should be able to feel the last three ribs, their shoulder blades, and their spine, neither element should be protruding.\n\nThere are key differences you need to know about before you can decide which food type is right for your puppy:\n\n» Dry food (kibble) is cheaper and more convenient, but it has more preserva- tives and is less appealing to dogs. Dry kibble requires processing to blend the various ingredients, and its cereal-like consistency is unlike anything a dog would be attracted to in the wild. Dry food uses lots of chemical preservatives to keep it fresh and prolong its shelf life. When you hear in the news of dry food being recalled, most cases are because the fat in kibbles has turned rancid and deadly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 327, "chunk_index": 385, "id": "afd3fd19-b3f2-43b2-a861-4a89d2f865cb", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "» Wet (canned) food often uses fewer preservatives (due to airtight packaging) and carbohydrates, and is generally more palatable to dogs. But it’s more expensive, and it can grow bacteria and become contaminated relatively quickly, so you shouldn’t leave it out for more than an hour. For dogs with sensitive digestive systems or allergies, wet food can make a huge difference. Canned food also retains more water and uses less cereal-type grains than dry food, which can also dramatically affect your puppy’s processing because few dogs would nosh on rice or wheat stalks if allowed to scavenge for food. The soft, gushy consistency of wet food, as well as its pungent meaty odor, is often more attractive to both dogs and owners.\n\n» Raw food is another option to consider when choosing food for your puppy. A raw-food diet is exactly like what it sounds: a mixture of raw meat, uncooked bones (often pulverized), veggies, fruits, and a few other raw ingredients that strive to mirror the foods a dog/puppy would eat in the wild. Specialty pet stores sell premade raw-food diets, or you can research how to make well-formulated meals right in your kitchen. (Of course, safe storage and careful handling are musts when handling any raw food, so remember to wash those hands!)\n\n» Freeze-dried food is still considered raw food. Should you choose to rehy- drate it for your pup, it will have much the same allure as any other unpro- cessed diet. As the name suggests, the ingredients have been dried at a low temperature until all the moisture is removed, which eliminates the need for chemical preservatives. This is good news if your baby has a sensitive, processed-food-rejecting, allergy-prone stomach.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 327, "chunk_index": 386, "id": "efbb8cf3-d621-44a4-bbc2-74aa5598d077", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "Though freeze-dried food can be quite costly, it crumbles nicely and serves well as a high-value treat or topping for a dry food option. With just a touch of water, it can be mashed into a nice gravy topping!\n\n» Home-cooked food is an increasingly popular option for feeding dogs of all ages and sizes. Home cooking, like commercial food, allows for a lot of variation, from the types of meats you choose to the extra additives that meet the requirements for vitamins, minerals, and carbohydrates. If your puppy is prone to allergies or has a highly sensitive digestive system, you may want to consider this option seriously. You may end up spending as much or more at the veterinarian and on medication as you would on a high-end diet.\n\nIf you’re considering going this route, make sure you think it through carefully. While feeding your puppy a well-balanced and nutritious diet has many pros, it is a time commitment, especially if you have a special-needs puppy who requires more protein to support their development. Followed responsibly, the home diet can be modified for your puppy’s age, breed distinctions, and individual needs. If you need help with your homemade formula, check out The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, by Wendy Volhard and Kerry Brown (Wiley). Your recipe may call for some tinkering until you get a formula that best suits your puppy’s everyday needs.\n\nWhen buying any dry or wet food, try to get human-grade ingredients (ingredi- ents safe for human consumption). Read the label before you buy. Low-end foods often use by-products, discarded meats, and additives to enhance the smell and color. Although the wet food may look okay for your plate, low-end foods can wreak havoc on a dog’s overall health.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 328, "chunk_index": 387, "id": "007ce721-3add-40de-8256-88e210d07b78", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "Broken down, aren’t all dog foods the same? I’m afraid not. The only real similar- ity is in the percentage of components required to meet a dog’s daily allowance, which is determined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Foods must contain six essential elements: protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and water. These elements make up the minimum daily requirement. But that’s where the similarities end.\n\nEven though the requirement is set by law, each company can choose whatever ingredients it wants to fill that requirement. For example, some foods include soy to meet the daily protein requirement, whereas other foods include meat or other animal protein. What’s the big difference between soy and meat? Your puppy will have to eat about four times as much soy to reach their MDR of protein than meat: which amounts to about four times as many calories and one ginormous pile of poop! For dogs, animal protein beats soy hands down.\n\nWhen searching for the right dog food, pay close attention to your dog’s digestion. Foods with low-quality ingredients aren’t absorbed as well and can give your dog loose stools. Good food should help your puppy produce two to four compact, inoffensive-smelling stools a day.\n\nThe following sections discuss each of the essential components in dog food and compare how the various grades of food meet these requirements.\n\nProteins (recommended 21 to 26 percent of the food)\n\nPuppies need protein for their growth and development and their immune system — more so when they’re in their growing phases. Your puppy’s food should be between 21 and 26 percent protein in makeup. (You can find out how much is in the food by looking at the label on the back of the packaging.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 328, "chunk_index": 388, "id": "0e9ba7e5-7629-42a0-a0db-f22d01b8cade", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "The need for protein changes throughout your puppy’s life. Whenever they expe- rience a temperature change or any kind of emotional stress, their system demands a certain amount of protein. When stress occurs, your puppy uses more protein (and therefore relies on you to feed them more protein). If your puppy leads a more sedentary existence or you’ve restricted exercise due to a recommendation or injury, speak to your veterinarian about reducing the ratio of protein in your puppy’s diet.\n\nMore protein isn’t always better. High-protein diets are used for show or working dogs. If you have a sworn couch potato or a dog who must spend hours alone, feeding them a high-protein diet (which, broken down, equals energy) makes them jittery and hyper.\n\nThe source of the protein determines the quality of the dog food. When you read the label, you see one or more protein sources: meat, animal, or grain protein. Here’s the translation:\n\n» Meat protein: Meat protein consists of organ meat or muscle meat. This type of protein is the closest to human quality and is superior to other protein sources.\n\n» Animal by-products: Animal by-products consist of any part of the animal that contains protein — hair, hooves, lips, and eyelashes are included in this group.\n\n» Vegetable or grain proteins: Anything that includes the word gluten can", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 329, "chunk_index": 389, "id": "93cc27f8-0611-4a3f-8d0a-ed2182216d91", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "be translated to mean a hard-to-digest, low-quality vegetable protein that is inexpensive for the manufacturer to produce. Vegetable and grain proteins are typically soy or corn-based, which are hard to digest, and your puppy will have to eat more food to get their MDR. If that isn’t bad enough, some puppies are allergic to grains found in dog food. The most common allergies are to corn, wheat, and soy. Certain grains also may contain fertilizer residue, which can cause an allergic reaction. If your pup refuses to eat their food or if their digestion seems abnormal in any way, consult your veterinarian and bring along the labels from your puppy’s food to help the vet identify any possible aggravating ingredients.\n\nMake sure you provide your pup with a diet that contains more animal protein than vegetable protein by picking food that has two or more animal sources of protein listed in the first five ingredients.\n\nPuppies get energy and dietary fiber from carbohydrates. Sources of carbohy- drates in dog food vary dependent on the food: Lower-quality foods use less expensive and more readily available ingredients from corn or wheat; higher- quality foods use rice, barley, and oats. The total amount of carbs should equal about 42 percent of the food.\n\nUnderstanding the digestive system of your puppy is important because not all carbohydrate digestion is the same: Foods high in carbs can cause digestive prob- lems in dogs, such as bloating, upset stomach, constipation, and too much stool. If you notice these symptoms regularly in your puppy, speak to your veterinarian and consider a dietary change", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 330, "chunk_index": 390, "id": "556a2432-b781-471f-bf8d-d939f5a7cc1d", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "If your pup inhales their food, slow them down. Either buy a slow feeder or place a too-large to-swallow rock at the bottom of their food bowl to create an eatable obstacle course.\n\nFats and preservatives (15 to 20 percent of the food)\n\nThe fat in the diet gives your puppy stable, even-tempered energy. Also, fat keeps your puppy’s skin and coat healthy, mobilizes digestion, and stabilizes\n\ntemperature — keeping them warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s warm. Look for foods that are 15 to 20 percent fats and preservatives.\n\nSources of usable fats include chicken fats, sunflower or canola oil, fish oil, and lactose-free dairy products. I say lactose-free dairy products because after a puppy loses their baby teeth, they lose the enzyme needed to process the milk chemical lactose. Even though a dog doesn’t know the difference between lactose and lactose-free, their stomach sure does — lactose in dogs produces gas and loose stool.\n\nHere are some tidbits to keep in mind when researching fats in your puppy’s diet:\n\n» Many food companies have begun adding tallow fat to meet the minimum daily requirement. Used in the production of candles, this fat is inexpensive and indigestible. When a brand claims a “new formula,” make sure the change doesn’t include this unusable ingredient.\n\n» Supplementing fat in your puppy’s diet is often unnecessary. However, if your vet encourages you to increase fat content, use pressed safflower oil drizzled over their meal, approximately one teaspoon for small dogs and one table- spoon for large dogs. This oil has a high concentration of linoleic acid and is least likely to cause an allergic reaction.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 330, "chunk_index": 391, "id": "e6228eac-05ec-4251-8293-c53e7058787e", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Although animal fat is an important part of your dog’s diet, it’s the one ingredient that can go bad shortly after manufacturing. For this reason, all dog food contains preservatives. Preservatives can be natural or artificial, and whereas artificial is certainly cheaper (a cost difference that’s passed on to the consumer), it’s often dangerous to your pet’s health. Watch out for the following artificial preservatives:\n\n» Rendered fat: We’re talking boiled-down animal byproducts in order to create\n\n» Propylene glycol: This preservative is banned by the FDA in cat food for its\n\n» Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT):\n\nThese two preservatives are suspected carcinogens.\n\nSafer, natural preservatives include vitamin C or E (which show up on the label as tocopherol or ascorbate).\n\nVitamins are organic additives that the body requires to unlock nutrients from food, and they help the body use energy. Dogs need to ingest vitamins with food to digest properly.\n\n» Fat soluble: These vitamins, which include vitamins A, D, E, and K, are stored\n\n» Water soluble: These vitamins, which include vitamins B and C, are flushed\n\nthrough the body daily — either used up or excreted.\n\nLook for foods that have these vitamins listed and speak to your veterinarian if you’re tempted to give your puppy a multivitamin supplement. It’s often unneces- sary with most foods because a proper balance of vitamins is required by the FDA.\n\nDid you know that your dog can live three weeks without food but will die within days without water? Water is necessary for all digestive processes as well as temperature regulation and nutrient absorption. Water acts as a transportation medium, shipping things between organs and out the body.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 331, "chunk_index": 392, "id": "8e02838e-208c-4a45-8530-5b4bfb19484e", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "How much water your pup needs has been relatively boiled down to 1¼ cup per ten pounds of body weight, but that does depend on the intensity of their physical activities and the type of food they eat. Whereas canned food is composed of 75 percent water, lowering the amount of additional water necessary for optimal health, dry food contains only 10 percent moisture. Regardless of how and when you offer your puppy water, rec- ognize that panting is equivalent to a person sweating — a sure sign that your puppy needs a drink!\n\nIf you’re using water from the faucet, have it tested (or test it yourself) to ensure that it’s free of harmful contaminants. Faucet water has been known to contain bacteria, viruses, lead, gasoline, radioactive gases, and carcinogenic industrial components that can cause chronic health problems. Department stores such as Walmart carry inexpen- sive water-testing kits that measure hardness, chlorine, pH, nitrate, and iron levels. If you find your water high in chemicals, consider a water softener or store-bought filter to filter the water you and your pets drink.\n\nSome foods have a long list of vitamins. Keep in mind that only 1 percent of the food should be sourced from vitamins. Though the list may look impressive, less is more.\n\nMinerals are a lot like their vitamin cohorts. They help the body in its normal daily functions, like circulation, energy production, and cell regeneration. By law, the FDA mandates that foods have a balanced supply; if you’re concerned about it, know that over supplementation can be harmful to your puppy’s development and health. Speak to your veterinarian if you have more specific questions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 332, "chunk_index": 393, "id": "38798ae4-8db0-4d55-9ba7-28c0e59e6ecc", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Interpreting food labels to get more bang for your buck\n\nWhen considering diets for your puppy, remember that each food is monitored by the AAFCO and must meet specific nutritional standards. How each food arrives at those standards is what you need to evaluate.\n\nTo pick the right food for your dog, you need to figure out how to read ingredient labels. You also have to consider your puppy. Formulas that agree with one puppy don’t necessarily agree with another.\n\nFigure 17-1 illustrates how the ingredient labels differ between lower-quality and high-quality food. Note the ingredients to stay away from.\n\nTake a minute to read the ingredients listed in Figure 17-1. Compare the protein and carbohydrate sources, and then focus on fats — animal fat is a generic term for a class of inexpensive fats. Chicken fat and sunflower oil are better alterna- tives. Again, if you’re unsure, ask your vet for advice.\n\nSome people would say that the high-quality foods cost more, but that’s arguable. Consider that you have to feed your puppy more to get the daily requirements; when you factor in the health concerns, you may end up saving more money in the long term by feeding your puppy a healthier diet. And if that doesn’t win you over, just remember the idiom “What goes in must come out!” A healthy diet truly does affect your puppy’s health, saving you loads in the long run as you get to enjoy your life together.\n\nFIGURE 17-1: Label-by-label comparison of a commercial versus a holistic brand.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 333, "chunk_index": 394, "id": "43a98a38-5ae8-4125-b814-762b423a730c", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "All puppies are different. One formula just can’t suit everyone. Find out as much as you can about the nutritional needs of your puppy by talking to your veterinar- ian, breeder, or educated pet-store professional to determine the diet that best suits your pup’s needs, especially if you notice anything odd about your dog’s behavior or digestion.\n\nDiet allergies are being diagnosed with increased frequency. Symptoms include itchy face and paws, vomiting, and diarrhea.\n\nTo detect what’s causing an allergy, your vet may begin your puppy on a hypoal- lergenic diet. Hypoallergenic diets use novel protein and carbohydrate sources that your puppy hasn’t been exposed to. The chosen protein (such as lamb, veni- son, rabbit, or fish) is usually one that isn’t in other types of dog food; rice is often the carbohydrate of choice. (Your veterinarian can provide you with a specialized diet or ingredients to blend.) In addition, all flavored treats, chews, and medicines are eliminated. You then reintroduce familiar food groups one at a time to deter- mine your puppy’s allergies.\n\nIf you have a large-breed puppy who’s prone to grow quickly, don’t be surprised if your breeder or veterinarian suggests feeding them adult food.\n\nSome puppies have specific ailments, such as a sensitive stomach, that require a prescription diet. Your veterinarian can guide you in your selections and provide appropriate foods to keep your dog well.\n\nRegularly bathing and grooming your puppy not only establishes healthy habits, but it also means you’re doing your part to ensure your puppy is a clean, fresh- smelling dog. Done right, these activities are also great bonding moments!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 334, "chunk_index": 395, "id": "a3b06e9c-3fef-410d-8323-19d68b45e904", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "Attention to your puppy’s outer appearance not only makes your puppy look and feel good but also helps you monitor your pup so that you can discover any ail- ments before they become serious. Of course, the other way to stay on top of your pup’s good health is to make sure you join forces with a caring vet who can help your puppy grow into a healthy adult dog. For more on grooming as your pup grows up, check out Dog Grooming For Dummies, by Margaret H. Bonham (Wiley).\n\nThe one glaring way that your puppy differs from a child is that they’re unable to articulate discomfort or dismay. When puppies feel pain, stress, or entrapment, they may withdraw, react defensively to touch, or vocalize loudly in the form of a whimper, yelp, or growl. It’s your job to be their interpreter. Establishing routine daily checkups not only conditions your puppy to handling but also keeps you aware of anything that may be running amiss.\n\nThink you’ve got chutzpah to groom your puppy yourself? You just might, but before you start drawing the bathwater, consider all that’s involved in keeping your puppy clean, brushed out, and coiffed.\n\nTime and patience: Depending on your puppy’s coat type, the adult length, and whether their hair grows or sheds, getting into a routine of daily brushing and monthly or bimonthly bath times to keep your puppy free of knots and tangles is a must.\n\nThe right equipment: Will your puppy need periodic clips? You’ll need proper clippers and special scissors as well as a sedate puppy and a steady hand.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 335, "chunk_index": 396, "id": "1096726f-1f5b-4039-9310-96d75d918631", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "A groomer’s precision: And if all that fantabulous fur weren’t enough, taking care of your puppy also requires nail, ear, and eye care. Read the following sections to see what’s involved with those areas.\n\nI remember dog baths from back when I was a kid. I had a big husky-shepherd mix named Shawbee. To say she hated baths is an understatement: She would dig in her heels the minute we turned her down the hall. Restraining her in the tub was no picnic, either. Four hands had to be on her or else she was hall-bound, shaking suds as she ran down the stairs and out the door. It was quite entertaining for us kids.\n\nTo prevent your dog from bolting during bath time, make “Tub” an event! Teach the word as a direction, and practice tub exercises long before you need to bathe your puppy. The trick works so well that your puppy may start jumping into the tub on command. Use the following steps:\n\n1. Teach your puppy to run into the bathing zone without actually doing anything.\n\nSay “Bath time!” and run to the area, either shaking the treat cup as you go or simply rewarding them with high-value treats or a lickable treat (peanut butter or a store-bought formula) when you arrive. Repeat this silly game until they’re beating you to the area.\n\nPlace a towel or rubber mat on the bottom of the tub or shower for traction, decorating the bathing area ahead of time with high-value treats or lockable\n\nmats and toys or chewies. You’ll use your puppy’s favorite items to help them associate pleasant thoughts with bathing", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 336, "chunk_index": 397, "id": "2397381d-8da2-4399-b6c2-00648f95b262", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Help your puppy into your pre-puppifed (refer to Step 2) tub or shower, reward and play for two to three minutes, and then take them out. Repeat this step until your puppy looks forward to tub togetherness.\n\nTry this fun water game: Place a large mixing bowl in the tub for your puppy to sniff; as they’re exploring, drop their favorite treat, toy, or bone into the water and say “Find it!”\n\nRemember that this is a pre-water step; the only thing in your tub should be a towel to stand on, a spreadable treat (like peanut butter) rubbed onto the sides at your puppy’s nose level and some toys. This is a practice run! If they show stress or attempt to escape, use enticing treats or special toys to focus their attention, and use soothing, loving strokes to calm them down. 4. Run the water as you’re playing, but let it drain. (Don’t fill the tub.) 5. After your puppy allows the water to run while they’re in the tub, let the\n\nIf your dog squirms, stop the water, sing softly, and offer some treats as you scratch their back lovingly.\n\n6. Proceed gradually until you’re able to fill the tub and bathe them peacefully.\n\nI know these steps sound extensive, but think of it as one week’s adventure. After all, it’s a training exercise — and a relatively small effort for a lifetime of easy bathing.\n\nGrooming can be a complete nightmare or a delightful, interactive time with your dog. Whether grooming is a chore or a treat is determined in puppyhood. Keep the first brushing episodes fun, and always end on a positive note by giving your pup a treat or their favorite toy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 337, "chunk_index": 398, "id": "a98261e0-c75f-4f23-bf6a-d3b64452feba", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "The following suggestions can help make your puppy’s first associations with grooming pleasant ones:\n\n» Use a soft-bristle human or puppy brush. You can eventually work toward using the brush of your choice, but at first, avoid wire-bristled brushes. Also keep in mind that as your puppy matures, they’ll shed their puppy coat and\n\nwill require a more sophisticated brushing tool. To discover which brush is best for your pup’s needs, speak to a groomer or pet-store professional. » Spread peanut butter or a store-bought equivalent in your puppy’s food bowl, or provide a delectable chew for distraction. Show your puppy the seasoned bowl when they’re in a quiet mood, and as they enjoy the diversion, softly draw the brush over their body.\n\nIf you follow the preceding suggestions, your puppy will take the experience in stride, and soon you’ll both be looking forward to the time together.\n\nIf your puppy growls fiercely at any point while you’re brushing them, stop every- thing and call a professional right away.\n\nIn addition to brushing, cleaning, and clipping, you want to do regular care and spot checks of your pup to ensure that their eyes, ears, nose, and mouth are healthy. Close inspection can identify potential issues before they become serious so that you can notify the vet.\n\nIn the following four sections, I’ve detailed more important cleaning and groom- ing pointers to help keep your pup smelling fresh, looking swag, and staying healthy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 337, "chunk_index": 399, "id": "0394cdc8-f871-4fef-9647-5aa19b4c28f0", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "Taking care of your puppy’s teeth is not optional: The earlier you start, the sooner this habit will become a routine that you and your puppy will enjoy. Sure, dogs have more-concentrated saliva than humans do, and dogs who chew a lot are less prone to tartar buildup than humans are, but these forms of prevention don’t take the place of dental care. Without a little help from friends (that means you and your veterinarian care team), poor dental hygiene can cause tooth decay, abscesses, periodontal disease, and tooth loss as well as heart, liver, and kidney disease, which are especially dangerous and costly in adulthood.\n\nFollow these tips to keep your puppy’s teeth healthy through their life:\n\n» Include chewing bones or dry food in your puppy’s diet. The natural\n\nbacteria-cleansing elements in your puppy’s saliva help clean your puppy’s teeth and will continue to do so throughout their life. Making chewing (and buying) quality bones a lifelong obsession.\n\n» Start brushing your puppy’s teeth. Use special dog toothpaste instead of human toothpaste because fluoride and dogs don’t mix! To get your puppy used to brushing, find a paste they enjoy — they come in flavors — and then spend a few days letting your puppy get comfortable having the paste-coated head of the brush in their mouth, rewarding your puppy after 5-second stints. Gradually introduce gentle strokes downward from their gums into your daily routine. Initially, remove the brush every two strokes and offer your puppy a high value reward; each day add another stroke, removing the brush between and rewarding your puppy until they can tolerate a full cleaning.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 338, "chunk_index": 400, "id": "e4a15671-2145-4e9c-a5e4-f649ae368a9a", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "If you have a young puppy, acquaint them with this procedure early on. Gently mirror the brushing action with your index finger, removing your hand and rewarding them with tasty treats.\n\n» Make dental care part of a routine checkup! Veterinarians have recently discovered that your puppy’s lifelong health is dramatically affected by good dental hygiene; so much so that they’ve included dental checkups as part of your dog’s overall yearly health analysis. As your dog gets older, you may opt for professional cleaning. To clean your dog’s teeth, your veterinarian will need to scales each tooth separately and finish with polishing. Dogs generally need to be anesthetized for this procedure.\n\nSome puppies put up an enormous struggle when getting their teeth brushed. If your dog is averse to the brush, try using a plastic finger brush that loosely fits over your index finger instead, to ensure that you and your puppy get in the habit of cleaning their teeth regularly. If your dog growls at you, quit immediately and call a professional.\n\nLong nails can force your puppy’s foot out of position, causing strain, injury, or discomfort; if that weren’t bad enough, long nails can crack or break if they catch on something, resulting in sustained injury and multiple trips to their doctor.\n\nHow do you know when your puppy needs a clip? If you can hear their nails on the floorboards, it’s time for a trim. To keep your pup’s nails healthy, you need to schedule a nail trip to a local groomer or veterinarian hospital, or go the DIY route about once a month.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 339, "chunk_index": 401, "id": "81e2fe3b-4cd7-40b8-93e6-fa12ade27907", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "You can trim your puppy’s nails in two ways — with clippers or a file:\n\n» Clippers: You can choose from two types. The scissor type is considered best for larger dogs; the one that looks like a guillotine is best when clipping medium to small dogs. Many videos on YouTube are posted by manufactur- ers: Watch the videos and talk to your veterinarian before you consider the investment.\n\nTake extreme care to avoid cutting into your puppy’s quick (the tissue part of the nail). Aside from being excruciatingly painful, the cut will bleed for hours because the quick has lots of veins. To prevent excessive bleeding, purchase a clotting solution like styptic powder from your veterinarian. It works like magic.\n\n» File: A dog file is just sandpaper-like material on a stick or rotating tool (like a Dremel tool) that files your dog’s nails rather than cuts them. (Filing prevents that “cut to the quick” business mentioned in the previous bullet.)\n\nWhen clipping your puppy’s nail, clip the very tip, just at the point it starts to curl. (See Figure 17-2.) You may notice that your pup’s front nails grow faster than the hind ones due to the kind of surface they exercise on. If your dog has a dewclaw (a nail that rides high on the back or front paw), don’t forget to trim it.\n\nFIGURE 17-2: Clip the nail at the tip where the point starts to curl.\n\nWhether clipping or filing your dog’s nail, position yourself next to your dog, not front-facing (that position can appear confrontational and startling). Use treats and peanut butter to create a positive association with this activity.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 339, "chunk_index": 402, "id": "47c6986f-5d90-4963-81fd-a2f801586f99", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "If you’re filing your dog’s nails, ask a helper to pet your dog while you get familiar with using the tools. You should file off just the hook at the end of your dog’s nail, the same portion you’d cut with the clipper. File in 5-second intervals, praising and treating your dog between intervals.\n\nIf you’re reading this sidebar before you’ve had to cut your dog’s nails, consider your- self blessed because you can prevent problems before they begin. To avoid having a clipper-phobic dog, make paw handling part of every positive interaction, from petting to treating, by following these steps:\n\n1. Initially, just handle your puppy’s paws — nothing fancy.\n\nThroughout the day, touch and handle your puppy’s paws. Say “Good puppy!” then reward your puppy each time you’ve successfully held their paw for over 1 second. Have as much hand-on-paw contact as possible for a week or two. Perform no clipping at this step.\n\n2. Swipe some peanut butter (or a similar paste) across the refrigerator at your\n\ndog’s eye level. As they lick, rub their paws with the clipper.\n\nDon’t cut the nails just yet. Open and shut the clippers to acquaint them with the sound.\n\n3. Gradually manipulate your puppy’s paw to get them acquainted with having\n\ntheir paw held against their will for more than 3 seconds.\n\nTo do this, determine the best pose for you to clip your puppy’s nails. Will you have them stand with their paw on your knee, or do you want them sitting while you hold their paw gently in one hand and clip with the other. I tell my clients to face in the same direction as their puppy, rather than facing them as many puppies view that pose as threatening.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 340, "chunk_index": 403, "id": "c8bc13ae-caa3-41ee-8e4c-1bd6bf45a17d", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "4. Practice this pose with your puppy — as if you were about to clip, but don’t do\n\nSit, hold their paw as you would for clipping, and after two seconds let go and reward them. Gradually increase the time, always rewarding them with a high value treat after they cooperate with the exercise.\n\nIf your puppy holds nicely still for up to 4 seconds but starts to squirm after 6 sec- onds, don’t reward the squirming. Dial it back to where your puppy was successful and reward that stage. Gradually — very gradually — inch back up to 6 seconds, even if you have to increase the hold one millisecond at a time!\n\n5. Once your puppy will sit still while you handle their paws for up to 10 seconds, try one cut — just one — by placing the edge of the clippers over the top of the nail and quickly squeezing the handle. Clear nails are easier to cut as you can literally see where the pink quick of the tip begins. If your puppy has dark nails, you need to take extra precaution. You can ask your veterinarian or groomer to give you a lesson.\n\nNote: Don’t correct your dog if they protest. Be understanding and slow down. Consider the alternative — filing instead of clipping. Again, nail clipping sounds like a major production, but in the long run, you’ll be glad you took the time to do it right. Anyone who has cut their dog or frightened them by being too rough can tell you that having a clipper-phobic dog is a nightmare.\n\nSoulful, sweet, comic — your puppy’s eyes express it all. Keeping them healthy, bright, and clear is up to you. If you notice that your puppy’s eyes are tearful, full of mucus, swollen, or itchy, see your veterinarian. Your puppy may be suffering from conjunctivitis (contagious to other dogs), a cold, an internal parasite, or an allergy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 341, "chunk_index": 404, "id": "31d0f463-4efb-4172-a2ef-ad349ceee97f", "word_count": 325, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 422 } }, { "page_content": "Your puppy has a third eyelid. If you lift the lower lid carefully, you see a pinkish lid that closes independently. This lid protects your puppy’s eye from dust and other particles that are picked up near the ground. This third lid can become infected, so note its healthy color and take your puppy to the veterinarian if you notice it becoming inflamed.\n\nIf your veterinarian prescribes eye medication, administer it carefully by swip- ing something tasty on the refrigerator (peanut butter or broth) at a 30-degree angle above your dog’s eye level. Stand behind your dog or to their side and pull back the upper lid until you see the white of your dog’s eye; then carefully drop in the medication.\n\nDifferent dogs require different cleaning schedules, ranging from every couple of weeks to daily. As a general rule, floppy ears require more care than uprights because of limited air circulation. If you have a hairy-eared breed, you may be instructed to pluck the hair out of the way because excess hair can trap wax and make one big mess that cries out for parasites. Talk to your veterinarian or groomer for personal instructions. (Refer to Chapter 18 for information regarding ear mites.)\n\nFollow this general advice for caring for your puppy’s ears:\n\n» Clean the outer ear flap. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a commercial ear solution that helps prevent infection. Using a cotton ball soaked in the\n\nsolution, wipe the outer flap. Use caution when cleaning, because the ear is very tender and going in too deep can be painful. Repeat this process until the cotton comes up clean.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 342, "chunk_index": 405, "id": "cef64aa8-bf1d-4b24-b03e-afe0258b3a1b", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Don’t use cotton swabs or poke into your puppy’s ear canal. You can cause irreparable damage by doing so.\n\n» Prevent water from entering the ear. If you’re bathing your pup, put a cotton ball in the opening ahead of time and wipe the ears out with a dry cotton ball when you’re finished.\n\nEar infections are quite common. Signs of infection include a red or swollen ear, discharge, head shaking, ear itching, or bad odor. If you notice any of these symp- toms, get your puppy to their doctor immediately. Left untreated, infections can cause fever, depression, irritability, and loss of balance. Your veterinarian may prescribe an ointment that you administer at home. Here’s how to use it:\n\n1. Wait until your dog’s a little sleepy. 2. Bring them to the refrigerator and swipe some peanut butter or broth at their eye level.\n\n3. As they’re licking the refrigerator, gently squeeze into their ear canal the amount of ointment specified by your veterinarian.\n\nYou don’t have to know much about the nose, though it is helpful for tipping you off to the fact that your puppy’s not feeling well. A warm nose can be caused by elevated temperature. (See the nearby sidebar, “Taking your puppy’s tempera- ture.”) However, weather conditions also can lead to dryness or fluctuation in body temperature. If you suspect that your puppy has a fever, touch their other body areas without fur (belly, paws, or the inside of their ears) or take their tem- perature. Did I mention that you have to do it rectally? What fun!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 343, "chunk_index": 406, "id": "53d35e86-dde2-47a8-999c-45db6b751c83", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "A dog’s nose can become discolored. One potential cause is the sun. When your puppy hangs in the sun, protect their nose with sunblock with a sun protection factor of 45. Another reason a pup’s nose may become discolored is an allergic reaction to a plastic food dish or household detergent. In such cases, use stainless steel bowls for your dog’s dishes, and clean with environmentally safe products.\n\nHere’s a fun activity your whole family will enjoy. Okay, maybe not. With all the techno- logical improvements of late, your puppy still has to endure the old thermometer-in- the-bottom style of preventive care. I recommend that you occupy their mouth with a tasty treat (peanut butter and treats top the list for my dog Whoopsie) while you dip a rectal thermometer in petroleum jelly and slide it in gently. The time varies by thermom- eter; read the instructions for use. Note that a resting dog’s temperature is between 100.5 degrees and 102.5 degrees, which is much warmer than the normal 98.6 degrees for humans. A good idea is to take your puppy’s temperature when they’re well so that you can gauge an illness when symptoms show.\n\nPuppies, like kids, need vaccinations and regular checkups. Get out your appoint- ment book and schedule regular visits to ensure that your puppy gets all the pro- tection they need.\n\nA puppy’s first vaccines should be given as they’re weaned off their mother’s milk. Unless a puppy is orphaned, which would require more medical interven- tion, that usually means a puppy’s first vaccine should begin at six weeks. If a series is recommended, follow-up shots are given two to three weeks later. These shots are called boosters. After the puppy reaches doghood, vaccines generally need to be given annually.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 343, "chunk_index": 407, "id": "54242d82-7053-449d-8b78-732a98195ff1", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "When possible, spread out the vaccines so that your puppy isn’t exposed to so many on the same day. This plan may cost you a little more in veterinarian visits, but in the long run, it may prevent your pup from having an adverse reaction.\n\nFinding a veterinarian you see eye-to-eye with is truly important: You’ll be together through thick and thin. Of course, it’s a little different from finding a doctor for yourself — you need to make sure your puppy feels safe and happy going there, too. Here are the most important factors to consider:\n\n» Knowledgeable doctors and staff: Those days when scruff-shaking, pinning, and staring down dogs to achieve dominance were regarded as acceptable behavior are long gone. These techniques have been proven by veterinarian behaviorists to terrify dogs and ensure a fearful or defensive reaction. Any vet or vet staff member who tries to intimidate your pup with these forceful techniques or even a stare down should be avoided or educated. Although these practices still exist in some uneducated circles, they’re flat-out wrong.\n\nIf necessary, educate staff on how you expect your puppy to be treated, and if they’re less receptive, go elsewhere.\n\n» A less-than-terrified reaction: To ensure that your puppy enjoys their vet visits, find a facility that will let you make social calls, or, better yet, find a facility that offers puppy classes.\n\n» Clean, organized, and friendly: Make certain that the hospital you choose is well organized and clean. Ask to stay with your puppy during routine visits so that you can make sure their techniques are minimally forceful.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 344, "chunk_index": 408, "id": "c612ff41-c9e1-460c-a299-5b2d7bc523b5", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "There are a few accreditations in the veterinarian world, including ones certified by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) and Dr. Marty Becker’s Fear Free organization. Though not required by the American Veterinary Medical Asso- ciation (AVMA), the AAHA and Fear Free certify those hospitals that meet a set standard of practice. In the case of AAHA, they work to verify that facilities are thorough, sanitary, responsive, and safe. To be certified as a Fear Free practice, a facility must show that it focuses on the most recent scientific studies to alleviate their patients’ stress while inspiring and educating force-free methods of care, training, and intervention.\n\nDogs with allergies suffer from swollen and itchy paws, itchy skin or gums, sneez- ing, and eczema. Some dogs even suffer a severe internal upset, like respiratory problems and digestive issues. The worst part is that dogs can’t articulate what’s wrong, so pinning down the culprit is difficult. Canine allergens come from many varied sources:\n\ncleaning products, fabrics, insecticides, cedar chips, rubber, plastics, and cigarettes\n\n» Food and food ingredients: Beef, chicken, pork, corn, wheat, and soy\n\nAlthough most puppies can tolerate most items, a puppy or an older dog who develops an allergy does suffer miserably. How can you tell that your puppy is having an allergic reaction to a substance or food? If your puppy develops an allergy, their body goes into overdrive trying to rid their system of whatever it is. If their skin comes in contact with an allergen, your puppy may develop a rash or", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 345, "chunk_index": 409, "id": "ff60aeb8-e49d-49a4-82ef-619d75291ff0", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "spend their time scratching in an attempt to scrape off the offending molecules. If the allergen is inhaled, your puppy may develop a cough — or worse, bronchitis — to dispel the foreign substance. If your puppy eats something that doesn’t agree with them, they may vomit or have diarrhea.\n\nIf you suspect that your dog has allergies and you’re unable to isolate the allergen, talk to your veterinarian. Routine tests can determine what’s bugging your puppy, then you may either eliminate the causing element or give your puppy medication to soothe the symptoms.\n\nThe most reliable method for testing food allergies is determined by tweaking your puppy’s diet. After your veterinarian has prescribed a 12-week hypoaller- genic diet, they will use one of the following tests to pinpoint the exact allergen:\n\nBlood test: Your veterinarian may take a blood sample to determine an allergy: using either the RAST test (radioallergosorbent) or ELISA test (enzyme- linked immunosorbent assay). These tests are used primarily for airborne allergens, although they can test for food and fabric allergies (cotton or nylon, for example) in some cases.\n\nSkin test: Quite similar to the way children are tested for allergies, your veterinarian will shave a patch of skin and inject various substances to judge your puppy’s reaction.\n\nTo prevent possible allergic reactions, keep the following tips in mind:\n\n» Use detergent soap designed for babies’ diapers when washing your pup-\n\n» Check the various sprays (cleaning, insecticide, plant fertilizer) used in your", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 346, "chunk_index": 410, "id": "923a7afc-6002-459f-a760-34feab4455b4", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "home, yard, and garden. Don’t use any products toxic to your pet. Plain white vinegar is a surprisingly effective pest control and cleaning agent. Imidacloprid and fipronil are also nontoxic, pet-friendly insecticides that do the job well. » Don’t overuse cleaning or parasite products. Flea sprays, powders, and dips\n\n» Watch what you feed your puppy throughout their life. Many dogs have (or, over time, acquire) food allergies. If you suspect a food allergy, speak to your veterinarian. They will likely suggest a dietary change and may want to narrow your pup’s diet fundamentally to pinpoint the cause.\n\nOne of the key ways you can prevent roaming, injury, certain types of cancer, and a variety of behavior problems is to spay or neuter your pet — not to mention doing your part to improve the horrific pet overpopulation problem that results in millions of dogs being needlessly killed every year. Close your eyes and consider that image.\n\nYou have two surgery choices for this procedure, both resulting in infertility requiring anesthesiology:\n\n» Traditional: In traditional surgeries, which use a knife and scalpel, the sex\n\nFemale: Ovaries or both the ovaries and the uterus\n\nThe traditional type of operation limits the heat cycles in female dogs and renders male dogs sterile. Recovery generally takes 5-14 days and often requires that your dog wear a cone (a head immobilizer) to prevent the dog from aggravating the incision.\n\n» Laparoscopic (or keyhole): During this procedure, the surgeon uses laser", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 346, "chunk_index": 411, "id": "af05e852-ffba-4196-babb-7d8b5846ab0e", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "technology via a miniscule blade to make one or two small incisions. Following an internal camera, they make a cut to the tubes leading to the the reproduction organs. While it is the latest, highly technogical development in this veterinarian procedure and ensures a faster recovery time, this procedure is less widely used. Perhaps it’s because the equipment is costly and the procedure requires a steady hand to handle a precision blade inside your dog reproductive zone, making the operation more risky, in some people’s opinion, as well.\n\nMany dog lovers request a gastropexy during their dog’s spay or neuter procedure. It tackles a separate health concern: It staples the stomach down to prevent a fatal condition known as bloat, in which the stomach fills with gas and twists. (For more on bloat, check out Chapter 19.)\n\nIf you’re not planning to breed your dog, do have your dog spayed or neutered. Hormonal drives can override all else, and an intact dog will try to escape the warm, safe perimeters of home to go out and look for a mate. Doing so can lead to catastrophe, but placing your dog under lock and key in the home can lead to great frustration, which can lead to destruction, chewing, and restless, chronic pacing and barking behavior. Spaying or neutering generally leads to a happier life for all involved.\n\nI’ve loved every dog who lived under my roof, but none was intended for show or breeding, and consequently, all were either spayed or neutered. It didn’t change their personalities, and they didn’t get fat. Trust me: This alteration isn’t like a lobotomy — it simply removes the need to scope out and fight for mates. Here’s a list of other common arguments for alteration:", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 347, "chunk_index": 412, "id": "d36fb465-c9d0-4153-ac04-4b4728b30371", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "» Spaying prevents female dogs from going into heat and bleeding (twice a year\n\nfor three weeks at a clip), which can be a mess for owners.\n\n» An estimated 4 to 6 million dogs are euthanized in animal shelters each year.\n\n» Having your dog fixed reduces the chance of breast, ovarian, uterine, and cervical cancer in females and testicular cancer and prostate infection in males.\n\n» Male dogs are less likely to mark your home or fight with other male dogs and\n\nare more likely to stay close to home when they’re neutered.\n\nIf you adopt your puppy from a shelter, you will be required to neuter them. Some shelters offer to do the procedure for you, and others direct you to a low-cost facility. Altering can cost anywhere from $50 to $550, depending on where you choose to have it done. When choosing a low-cost facility, be mindful to ask how they keep costs down, and use good judgment if the low cost means that they cut corners on medications and individual care for your puppy. If your puppy is comfortable at the veterinarian’s office, you may request certain comforts to be provided pre- and post-surgery, such as their favorite blanket or calming music.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 348, "chunk_index": 413, "id": "405c0109-6ba1-47ff-91bd-3df0d6994e8f", "word_count": 207, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 269 } }, { "page_content": "With puppies as with babies, there’s a great saying worth posting to the refrigerator: Sleep creates sleep. I’d go so far as to say a puppy’s sleep training, or the lack of it, keeps my phone ringing year after year. Here’s the secret that most people don’t know: Dogs are crepuscular. Before you look up that word, let me cut to the chase. People are diur- nal: We’re awake two-thirds of the day. Some animals are nocturnal: They’re awake at night. Dogs are crepuscular: They’re most awake at dawn and dusk, and they sleep for 75 percent of a 24-hour cycle. This is great news if you hop on the sleep training routines listed in Chapter 7, but it’s bad news if you’re already overstimulating your puppy with constant activity. If you’ve been duped into thinking that your dog needs entertainment when you can’t be with them, you likely have a puppy who is chronically sleep deprived. And how will you know? They have trouble getting to sleep, they don’t like being left alone, and they’re very, very nippy. Flip to Chapter 6 for help — and get some sleep!\n\nWhen you bring a young puppy home, they have five needs: food, water, elimina- tion, sleep, and play — also known as exercise. Yes, exercise is a need! Your puppy needs exercise to keep their system in balance. Make sure you incorporate exercise in your puppy’s routine. Because a walk down the street can be frightening to a new puppy because of cars, big dogs, and other creatures, games (see Chapter 20) are the best way to tire them out.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 348, "chunk_index": 414, "id": "425d07de-19ab-4e3a-87d9-1ed03fcd47a2", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy were to live in the wild, they wouldn’t be permitted to wander far from their territory until they reached six to seven months of age; it’s a safety issue, tied to the release of adult dog hormones. Though I do encourage social jaunts to town, I do not recommend that my clients walk their puppies far from home — for many reasons, including their fear-impression periods (as discussed in Chapter 9) and their immature dog-to-dog greeting skills (discussed in Chapter 12).\n\nExercise outdoors does lead to a calmer dog indoors, but proper exercise is the key phrase. Proper exercise involves planning age- and size-appropriate activities and setting aside time to join in the fun. See Table 17-1 for guidelines on deter- mining how much exercise and interaction your puppy needs.\n\nAmount of Exercise Suggested for Different Energy Levels\n\nIf your puppy doesn’t work off their energy outdoors, they’ll work it off indoors. Along the same lines, if you don’t run them, they may demolish your couch. No, it’s not spite. It’s just energy coupled with boredom.\n\nPuppies don’t like to exercise alone. They need a companion to frolic and play with. Unless you have a couple of dogs, you need to exercise your puppy two to three times a day for 10 to 20 minutes, depending on their age and breed. Although this amount may sound like a lot, after you get into a groove, the exercise will be fun and a good bonding time for you and your puppy.\n\nAlthough all puppy’s need to move about, their energy level is fairly set. My golden mix could run for hours, while my German Shepherd Dog-mix poops out after about 20 minutes play. Check out Table 17-1 to determine how much exercise and play your puppy really needs!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 349, "chunk_index": 415, "id": "49b6969c-e5b2-4184-aabf-37cfd976e3e2", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "One common misconception about dogs is that leaving a dog outside all day is good for them. “They need fresh air” is not a valid argument. If you leave your puppy out all day, you end up with a neurotic creature who digs in the yard and barks until the neighbors complain. Why? Puppies need time with you, inside or outside — basically, wherever you are!\n\nChapter 18 Identifying and Preventing Common Ailments\n\nThis chapter is a virtual encyclopedia of information about health problems\n\nand preventive care and vaccines. In this chapter, you’ll find a list of many of the common ailments and a list of the more serious conditions that your puppy may suffer from, including diarrhea, bloat, and teething. If you’re raising a purebred puppy or wondering about your mixed breed, a few discomforts are known to be hereditary, such as compacted anal glands and hip and elbow dyspla- sia. In life with dogs, as in life in general, it’s better to be prepared!\n\nIn addition, this chapter teaches you all you’d ever need to know about parasites, those that feast on your pup’s insides and on their skin. Oh, the joy! Thinking about any bug — flea, tick, or otherwise — nesting on or in my dog really gives me the creeps. External parasites live for blood — your dog’s, to be precise, although some settle for a human snack if the mood strikes them. I describe all these suckers (pun intended) one at a time, later in this chapter.\n\nFirst stop? Destination vaccination! A good rule of thumb: Prevention is truly worth a pound of cure.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 350, "chunk_index": 416, "id": "47fea499-067b-4a7e-afab-15c92ce759b8", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Many highly contagious bacteria and viruses can wreak havoc on a puppy’s inter- nal system, causing symptoms ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to seizures, fever, and loss of appetite. The good news? Many of these diseases are preventable with vaccinations. In this section, I detail the many vaccines that your veterinar- ian will recommend. Core vaccines are considered essential because the diseases they prevent are common and highly contagious — and have a mortality rate. Other vaccines may be a good idea too, depending on where you live and what your puppy is exposed to. Speak to your veterinarian about what they recommend.\n\nWhen your puppy gets vaccinated, your vet injects antigens, or small amounts of the disease itself, into your puppy’s vein or muscle. When the antigens are intro- duced, they act like a tiny army of invaders — two or three little disease soldiers. Instantly, your puppy’s internal defenders — the good soldiers — set out to destroy the invaders. The good soldiers win easily because so few antigens are present. Most puppies can conquer the invaders without developing any symp- toms. This internal battle of good-versus-evil helps your puppy develop a fleet of protectors called antibodies. These newly enlisted antibodies stand at the ready to shield your puppy if the disease reappears. The same holds true with human vaccines.\n\nCore vaccines prevent diseases that have a high mortality rate and are widespread in the United States. All puppies must get these vaccines or be at great risk of contracting and passing on deadly viruses. These inoculations are routinely given at 6, 12, and 16 weeks of age.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 352, "chunk_index": 417, "id": "24517779-931c-47be-a25d-779cc7ce9c2b", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Many people have concerns over giving too many vaccinations all at once. The worry is that a puppy’s emerging immune system cannot tolerate or defend itself against multiple vaccines, so the puppy can get sick or even die when following a routine vaccination schedule. Though most puppies can and do tolerate the sug- gested formula, a few puppies cannot. These puppies get highly symptomatic, and — although it’s extremely rare — they may die from an intolerance of vac- cinations. If you’re concerned about your puppy’s sensitivity, speak to your veter- inarian about spacing out the vaccines instead of giving them all at once.\n\nThe highly contagious and often deadly viral disease parvovirus-2 affects the lin- ing of a puppy’s intestinal wall. Though puppies get a protective boost against this disease from their mother’s milk, your puppy will need three additional vaccina- tions as well. Symptoms include vomiting, increasingly severe diarrhea (yellow to\n\nyellow-gray and then tinged with blood), and overall depression. Although there’s no medical “cure,” early supportive care is essential to a puppy’s survival. Your veterinarian will recommend that you keep the puppy still and well-hydrated and offer you the option of leaving your puppy in their care until the worst symptoms have passed.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 352, "chunk_index": 418, "id": "6d4b4383-e22d-400c-ad6c-366bd50f68f7", "word_count": 206, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 267 } }, { "page_content": "Another potentially deadly virus, distemper is a respiratory disease that passes from pup to pup through airborne discharge from coughing or sneezing or bodily contact. Distemper is tricky to diagnose because the symptoms appear in stages. At first, a puppy may have a fever and loss of appetite, and then they may appear fine and healthy as the disease incubates for six to nine days. Stronger symptoms appear a week or more later, including eye and nose discharge, coughing, vomit- ing, diarrhea, walking and balance issues, and seizures. If the puppy is unable to fight off the disease, it often causes brain swelling and can lead to death.\n\nCanine hepatitis, a type of adenovirus, is a disease of the liver with symptoms sim- ilar to human hepatitis (though not transmittable to humans), and it can cause death. Symptoms include fever, an enlarged liver, and coughing. Passed through stools and urine, this highly contagious disease gets lodged in the tonsils and can cause respiratory tract illnesses as well.\n\nThis deadly viral disease is transmitted through the saliva and bite wounds inflicted by infected animals. Rabid animals are often compelled to bite their vic- tims, people included — sounds like a bad vampire movie, but you won’t get a happy ending here. The disease enters the body, moves to the brain where it incu- bates for a month or two, and then causes disorientation, fever, personality changes (increased aggression and biting tendencies), and seizures. In its final stages, the infected animal enters a paralytic stage, can’t move its head or neck, froths at the mouth (because it can’t swallow), and dies a horrid, suffering death. Vaccinate your pet today!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 353, "chunk_index": 419, "id": "8441481d-7f7b-4590-9677-93e8d7c4e7c0", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Noncore vaccines may be specific to a given geography (for example, a Lyme vac- cine is important in areas where the tickborne disease is rampant) or may be con- sidered optional if the effects of the disease aren’t life-threatening. Speak to your veterinarian about these vaccines and decide which, if any, are essential for your puppy’s health and well-being.\n\nBordetella is the classic kennel cough vaccine that’s required by most dog facilities, from kennels to daycare and group training centers. Passed through feces and saliva, it’s highly contagious (though nonfatal) and results in symptoms includ- ing a dry cough, loss of appetite, fever, and nasal discharge. In advanced stages, it can develop into pneumonia (detected by a chest X-ray). Though kennel cough has no medical cure, you can ease your puppy’s suffering if you\n\n» Keep your puppy calm (because exercise triggers coughing spasms) » Moisten dry food to prevent rough kibble from aggravating their throat » Remove their collar when indoors » Offer time in a steamy bathroom or near a humidifier if the cough seems\n\nParainfluenza used to be limited to horses, but recently a strain of the virus has affected dogs as well. A more serious strain of kennel cough than Bordetella, this highly contagious virus has a higher mortality rate and is a concern in dog facili- ties. Depending on the severity of the case, antibiotics may be given.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 353, "chunk_index": 420, "id": "7bb19e5f-7d16-47fd-8267-f687d0a4722b", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "Coronavirus is a highly contagious virus that lodges in your puppy’s intestinal tract and causes fever, loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea. Passed through feces, it runs its course in two to ten days. Although it’s not deadly, there is some debate about whether it lowers a puppy’s resistance to other viruses, such as parvovirus. Routine vaccinations starting at six weeks prevent this disease. If it takes hold, lots of fluids help flush it out; in advanced stages, it requires medication to curtail symptoms, like diarrhea.\n\nLeptospirosis, a bacterial disease, has not one but eight strains. Carried in the bloodstream, it can affect many internal organs but seems to do the most damage in the liver and kidneys. Both wild and domestic mammals can transmit the dis- ease through contact with urine and stagnant water. Symptoms include vomiting, fever, weight loss, and overall pain and discomfort, and it’s easy to diagnosis through a blood sample.\n\nTreatment involves a round of penicillin or antibiotics to help your puppy rid their system of the bacteria. Left untreated, it can be fatal in puppies younger than six months. Speak to your veterinarian about the prevalence of leptospirosis in your area to find out whether the vaccine is a good idea for your pup.\n\nLyme, a tickborne bacterial disease, attacks a puppy’s nervous system and causes a whole host of ailments that should trigger suspicion, including lameness, swol- len joints and lymph glands, loss of appetite, lethargy, and aggression. The odd thing about these symptoms is that they may appear and reappear suddenly, and the joint pain and swelling may shift overnight from one leg to another.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 354, "chunk_index": 421, "id": "40bdff11-bba7-49df-a557-871f3e6fc5ca", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "The medical treatment involves a series of antibiotics. Left untreated, Lyme dis- ease may cause severe kidney disease that can lead to renal failure and death. If that’s not bad enough, Lyme disease can also cause heart disease and nervous disorders in advanced stages. If you live in an area where Lyme disease is preva- lent, talk to your veterinarian about this vaccine.\n\nGiardia, discussed in the section “Other internal critters,” later in this chapter, can be found in open water where your puppy may pause innocently to quench their thirst, and it’s contagious to other dogs and people. (Egad!) A vaccine is now available to build your puppy’s resistance to giardia. Consider your lifestyle and speak to your veterinarian if you feel your puppy may be at risk.\n\nThroughout your puppy’s first year, you may witness a range of health conditions: One day they’ll be zestful, determined, and confident, and the next day they may sleep late and show little interest in daily activities. After all, a lot is going on under the surface. Their bones are growing and their hormone levels are fluctuat- ing, and their body is growing accustomed to all the little airborne particles their world has to offer, from pollens to pollution. So, how can you know when your puppy is actually suffering from a health problem?\n\nTo judge whether your puppy is just having an off day or something more serious is bothering them, take notice of your puppy’s happy, feelin’-fine state so that you’re better able to recognize changes in both their mood and bodily functions. By scheduling their needs (as described in Chapter 7), you can notice when they’re off schedule, which may indicate a health problem. Make a note of what’s", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 355, "chunk_index": 422, "id": "5fadeb84-82a3-46aa-9217-8a9038c4fd16", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "different, from excessive sleep to refusal of food to changes in their poop. If the issue persists and you need to take your puppy to the veterinarian for a checkup, the vet will appreciate the detailed info that you can provide, because you know your puppy so well.\n\nLike kids, puppies have a first set of 28 teeth, also known as milk teeth. After birth, the adult set of 42 teeth grow up in your puppy’s gums and then, between the puppy’s fourth and six months, begin to make their descent, shoving the baby teeth out of the way. The process is painful and affects some puppies more dra- matically than others, bringing symptoms ranging from loose and watery stools to mopey behavior and loss of appetite to whining.\n\nSome milk teeth are stubborn — they hang on even as the adult teeth are making their appearance. Aside from causing terrible discomfort, the double-tooth sce- nario can affect the adult tooth’s alignment or cause tooth decay. Routinely peek inside your puppy’s mouth and speak to your veterinarian if this problem happens to your puppy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 356, "chunk_index": 423, "id": "65065631-e982-4d05-b6da-2a851f9c26fe", "word_count": 184, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 239 } }, { "page_content": "When your puppy coughs, they’re trying to get rid of a foreign particle. The source can be anything from an allergen to pollution or a respiratory illness. If your puppy is coughing, consider whether environmental factors may be the cause and then try to avoid any likely suspects. If the cough erupts irregularly throughout the day or during physical exertion, it may be a sign of a viral infection. (The most common infection is caused by the Bordetella virus — the kennel cough virus — but luckily enough there’s a vaccine that can render your pup immune to the disease.). In the most serious cases, a cough can signal heartworm or distemper, especially in young dogs who aren’t fully vaccinated. If the cough lingers, make a note of any other symptoms and call the vet.\n\nYour puppy is known for their enthusiasm, joy, and innocent excitement. If you notice lethargy, a sudden drop in your puppy’s pep — for example, they can barely get up to greet you or show little enthusiasm for treats, walks, or adventures — it may indicate a more serious problem. Look for other signs, such as fever, diar- rhea, and respiratory issues. If your dog’s lack of energy persists for more than a day or two, call their doctor. Although many puppies may display these symptoms when they experience the sudden emergence of hormones, a drop in energy level is often the first sign of internal upset.\n\nDiarrhea is a common ailment in puppies, and when unaccompanied by other symptoms, it usually signals a reaction to dietary changes or stress (from the drama of a move or abandonment to even the simplest change in schedule). Many puppies have bouts of loose stools during their teething stage and after a vaccine as well; such symptoms generally pass in a day or so.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 356, "chunk_index": 424, "id": "74b97b8a-d18c-4625-b145-657398e0cebf", "word_count": 306, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 397 } }, { "page_content": "If the diarrhea occurs with other symptoms, which may include a fever or lack of enthusiasm or appetite, it may signal a more serious illness or infection. Keep a record of your dog’s imbalance and see your veterinarian if the problem continues — or if the diarrhea goes from loose and foul smelling to bloody or mucus tinged.\n\nThere are lots of reasons your puppy might have a sudden scratch, and most often it’s nothing to worry about. If your puppy starts to itch and itch and itch, however, especially in the same place, it might do you well to take note. Dry skin can signal an allergy, a cut or scrape, or a parasitic invasion (fleas, mites, roundworm, and the like). Occasionally, an itch can even signal something worse. If this symptom persists or if you notice something wonky on your dog’s coat or skin, make an appointment with their veterinarian.\n\nMany young pups have an occasional bout of constipation, or trouble pooping. You can remedy it by giving them more to drink and adding a little fiber to the diet. Canned pumpkin, chopped veggies, or a little olive oil can work as a laxative.\n\nIf your puppy can’t poop and the constipation is accompanied by a sudden drop in activity and a belly that is hard or painful to the touch, call your veterinarian immediately. Your puppy may have eaten something that is blocking their intes- tines, which is a serious problem.\n\nYour puppy may vomit from time to time, especially if they’re a speedy eater or they overeat or even when their belly is empty. (If your puppy is hungry, they may vomit up bile, a yellow, frothy liquid.) Help your puppy strike a balance with the right amount of foods fed at the right intervals, especially when they’re young.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 357, "chunk_index": 425, "id": "f93a4a3b-42ad-4112-9c29-c3e6795d7458", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Be especially mindful not to exercise your puppy right after eating. It can not only cause vomiting but also lead to a far more serious, life-threatening condition where the stomach twists and circulation is blocked, known as bloat.(More on bloat later in this chapter.)\n\nHere’s the big question with vomiting: Are other symptoms present, too? Make sure everything checks out: normal eating, bowel movements, and energy level. If you notice drooling, whining, or diarrhea in addition to vomiting, you have cause for concern. These symptoms can signal a host of ailments, from eating poisonous items to having parasitic infestations, food allergies, or life-threatening viral dis- eases such as distemper or parvovirus.\n\nHere’s a problem that stinks! Gas is created somewhere along the digestive tract and can have many causes:\n\n» Ravenous eating or chewing: Your pup may be taking in a lot of air, but,\n\nfortunately, this type of gas doesn’t smell too bad.\n\nTry to slow down their eating by feeding them in a specialized slow feeder or foraging mat — or do-it-yourself by placing a large rock in a feeding bowl. If you have multiple dogs, try isolating your puppy from them if the eating appears to be a competitive feast.\n\nWhere your puppy’s health is concerned, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. If anything causes a sudden and persistent shift in your puppy’s personality and mood or if your gut just tells you to go to their veterinarian, go! No matter what someone else might tell you, if you sense that something isn’t quite right with your puppy, then some- thing is not quite right with your puppy. Your pup cannot voice their pain — so you’re their one and only guardian.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 358, "chunk_index": 426, "id": "554db772-0fc3-4a0c-a6ec-ae8a06ca7ae0", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "Certain symptoms that your puppy has — such as appetite fluctuations, lethargy, diar- rhea, vomiting or a persistent cough, inability to poop, chronic thirst/urination, insistent itching, or changes in stool — can indicate a serious problem. If your puppy shows dra- matic symptoms of any of the conditions listed in the “Day-to-Day Health Concerns” section, call your vet immediately and make an appointment. This section is not intended to take the place of veterinarian care.\n\n» Eating certain foods: An odd item in the diet can cause gas. Perhaps you changed the diet suddenly or the puppy has a sensitivity to the food you’re feeding them — or your puppy may have gotten into something unusual. » Suffering from a health problem: Foul-smelling gas accompanied by either diarrhea or vomiting signals a more serious issue. When foreign bacteria make their home in your dog’s intestine, it can cause disease and infection as well as gas. Call your veterinarian if your puppy has these symptoms.\n\nBloat is a word that strikes fear into the heart of every dog owner. If you’re bliss- fully unaware, bloat is a condition that causes the stomach to twist in on itself. Whether 180° or 360°, this torsion is immediately life-threatening because fluid cannot enter or exit and creates a buildup of pressure on the heart and lungs. Symptoms include a bloated belly, unsuccessful vomiting, foamy saliva, restless- ness, panicking, and shallow breathing. Do not wait — shock and death follow rapidly. Get your dog to their veterinarian or, if it’s after hours, to an emergency hospital.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 358, "chunk_index": 427, "id": "51a20da5-a150-4bac-972d-9f43c6ba5b98", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "Near your dog’s anus are two small anal glands that produce squirts known as secretions. This odor blast helps dogs identify one another and even provides such intimate stats as the dog’s age and hormonal state. Each time your puppy poops, a small squirt of this liquid coats the stool. However, the anal glad can become compacted, and then your puppy has problems. Some puppies are more suscepti- ble to gathering residual fecal matter in these glands, which become blocked and painful. If you see your dog scooting around dragging their bottom, it’s a fairly sure sign the glands are compacted.\n\nYou can either learn to express these glands yourself (ask your veterinarian to show you) or let the vet do it for you. Unexpressed glands may become infected and require a cycle of antibiotics and, in worst case scenarios, a surgical procedure.\n\nPuppies limp for lots of reasons. If it’s a passing thing, don’t worry yourself, but if it continues or worsens, here are some causes to consider:\n\n» Thorn, sliver, or obstruction: Your puppy’s pads are similar to a tire: thick and resilient but always pressed to the ground. Run your finger gently over your puppy’s pad to eliminate the possibility of an embedded foreign object.\n\n» Rough play or overexertion: Puppies grow throughout their first year:\n\nBones, muscles, and tissues are prone to aches and pains, especially if your puppy enjoys roughhousing and tearing circles around the yard or dining room table. If your puppy comes up lame, a few day’s rest and relaxation will usually improve their condition but if their condition worsens or doesn’t improve, it could be a sign of a more serious issue.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 359, "chunk_index": 428, "id": "178d1ac9-1cf2-4607-81b5-65e0ccca1a47", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "» Lyme disease: One symptom of this condition is joint pain and sporadic limping. If your puppy’s aches and pains are coupled with lethargy, fever, increased water intake, and lack of appetite, schedule a trip to the veterinar- ian immediately.\n\nGee whiz! It’s a whole section devoted to parasites, diarrhea, and infections. Though making this chapter fun and entertaining may be an impossible task, it’s important to keep the end goal in mind: If I can help your puppy remain parasite-free, your house, bed, and couch cushions clear of any disease-carrying organisms, and help you remain calm when your puppy isn’t feeling 100 percent, I’ll have done my job.\n\nFleas are an age-old problem, and they’re not going away anytime soon. They generally hang out in the lower portion of your puppy’s body, behind the shoulder blades. Contrary to popular belief, fleas don’t live on dogs — they only feed on them. Fleas live in carpets and grass, so treating the problem involves all-out war.\n\nTalk to your veterinarian about safe options for treating your puppy. Your vet may recommend collars, uniquely formulated pills, oil pouches, or other products during flea season. (Be sure to use these remedies only as frequently as the label instructs.) These products repel fleas, but remember that fleas don’t live on your dog so much as feast on them, so repelling fleas from your dog may result in their jumping on people. (The following section discusses removing fleas from your home and lawn.)\n\nDon’t spray, rub, or squeeze flea prevention products near your dog’s face or bottom regions, because most products are toxic. Not all products are created equal. Pet stores sell many of the older flea-and-tick preventions that aren’t as safe as some of the newer products.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 360, "chunk_index": 429, "id": "ca7dca4a-cae7-4491-a056-6be881f15fe1", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "If you want to deal with fleas in a pet- and human-safe way, you may want to look into nontoxic remedies. Some herbal sprays (home mixed or purchased) contain- ing eucalyptus, lavender, and tea-tree oils may help with flea problems. You can also use a flea comb to remove the fleas from your puppy. (Then drown the fleas in a cup of soapy water.) To discover other non-toxic ways to prevent and remedy flea infestations, talk to your vet and visit dogster.com. (www.dogster.com/dog- health-care/home-remedies-for-fleas-on-dogs)\n\nAsk your vet about flea tablets or prevention powder. Although these remedies don’t take care of the fleas you have now, they do sterilize the fleas, putting a cramp in their reproductive cycles.\n\nA tick is another blood-sucking parasite. Like fleas, ticks prefer furry creatures, but they settle for humans in a pinch. Unfortunately, ticks are found all over the world, and some can carry bloodborne diseases. Unlike fleas, however, ticks prefer to navigate to the front portions of your dog’s body, near their heart, and they prefer areas where the blood is located near the surface. (Think head and arteries.)\n\nTicks are remarkably tiny until they’ve filled up with blood — to find ticks on your pet, disguise your tick search as a massage session. Probing deep into your pup- py’s fur, feel for unusual, tiny bumps in your dog’s coat.\n\nTicks love to climb, so their favorite area is naturally around your puppy’s head. Removing a tick is no picnic. When ticks feed, they insert barbs into the skin like fish hooks. If you try to pull out a tick, you end up with a headless, blood-filled sac, and your puppy ends up with a nasty bump on the head.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 361, "chunk_index": 430, "id": "ae937691-95a0-49ad-bc5a-433210ec9ae7", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Removing ticks is easiest before they dig in, but you have to act fast. The low-tech flea comb is your best friend after your pup’s been on a walk or hike. Comb your pup with this thin-toothed tool to remove ticks before they implant. I keep a separate comb for the kids’ hair. (Yes, I flea-comb my kids. Try it before you laugh — it’s effective.)\n\nBecause ticks feast on blood from birds and other animals on up through the food chain, they often carry diseases. Here are the seven most common diseases:\n\nLyme disease (canine borreliosis): Lyme disease has spread to more than 47 states. It can affect most mammals (including you) and is transmitted through the common deer tick. (Nearly 50 percent of all adult deer ticks carry the disease.) After the disease gets into your dog’s system, it seeks out joints, causing painful inflammation, fever, loss of appetite, and lameness. Left untreated, your dog’s kidneys, heart, and neurological processes may be in danger.\n\nRocky Mountain spotted fever: Ticks carrying this disease are most common in the southeast United States, but they aren’t confined to that region. It causes failure of blood-clotting mechanisms, rash, fever, loose and bloody stools, bloody urine, nosebleeds, and respiratory difficulty.\n\nCanine anaplasmosis: This bacterial disease is found the world over and is recog- nized by its symptoms of fever, lethargy, lack of appetite, joint pain, and lameness. The bacteria is transmitted through the deer tick, western black-legged tick, and brown dog tick.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 361, "chunk_index": 431, "id": "82ef439f-46b1-48cb-b43b-140ae66b7747", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "Canine ehrlichiosis: This nasty condition is transmitted by a brown dog tick (although deer ticks are also in question). Canine ehrlichiosis causes severe ane- mia, fever, bruises, and bleeding disorders by attacking the white blood cells.\n\nCanine babesiosis: This disease is more common in Europe than in the United States, though the number of cases in the South is growing. It causes severe anemia.\n\nCanine hepatozoonosis: Ambylomma maculatum ticks (say that five times fast) carry hepatozoonosis and can go on to infect many major organs of the dog; however, infection is generally subclinical. (That’s doctor talk for a condition that isn’t severe enough to present observable symptoms.) Found in the South and Southeast, this disease is identifiable by fever, lack of appetite, weight loss, bloody diarrhea, as well as some bone and muscle issues.\n\nCanine bartonellosis: Like other tick-borne infections, this one is accompanied by fever, vomiting, and diarrhea, in addition to lameness, swelling of the lymph nodes, and inflammation of the nose and eyes (and heart muscles, but you can’t see that).\n\nYour veterinarian can run a titer test, which measures levels of antibodies or immunity to determine whether your dog has been infected with any of these diseases and needs treatment.\n\nTo remove a tick that’s already bitten down, follow these steps:\n\n1. Stun the tick for 30 seconds with a cotton ball soaked in mineral oil. 2. With special tick-removing tweezers (available at pet stores), press down on the skin on either side of the tick.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 362, "chunk_index": 432, "id": "b9ac50a3-da81-440b-be3f-f92fd0b5faed", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "3. Squeeze tightly the skin surrounding the tick and grasp the head. 4. Lift up and out. This step can be painful for your pup, so you may want to give them a spoonful of peanut butter or some biscuits while you take care of the removal business.\n\nIt’s hard to kill these (blood) suckers. They’re drown-proof, squish-proof, and squeeze-proof. I find that the best way to kill ticks is to burn them or drop them into a jar of bleach, rubbing alcohol, or vodka (for lower toxicity). If you have children, keep the jar out of their reach.\n\nThe following tips can help you prevent ticks from feasting on your puppy:\n\n» Walk your puppy in the open sunshine. Walking in the sunshine is safer\n\nbecause most ticks prefer to hang out in shaded, woody areas.\n\n» Clean up your yard. Ticks lay their eggs, hundreds at a time, in damp, shady environments (like tall grass and leaves). They have several hosts and can pick up bacterial infections from any one of them. Charming.\n\n» Inspect yourself and your puppy during and after every walk in the woods or a field. If you’re with a human partner, take turns looking each other over from head to toe. If traveling alone, bring a mirror. Ticks can latch on at any level — they fall from trees, attach to the undergrowth, and crawl on the ground. How delightful!\n\n» Wear protective clothing. To protect yourself, wear light colors (making the ticks easier to spot), tuck your pant legs into your socks, and wear a cap. » Apply a homemade, nontoxic spray. Spray your puppy with a mixture of", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 363, "chunk_index": 433, "id": "b1e7860b-f149-4dec-87f9-1cadf405b010", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "» Speak to your veterinarian about recommending a good topical treat- ment to prevent ticks. Many products on the market are less toxic and highly effective tick repellants. With topical spot treatments, you put a drop of\n\nthe product on the puppy’s skin; the repellent moves through the pup’s oil glands and hair follicles to cover the whole body.\n\nIf you prefer a spray repellent to a topical one, remember not to spray repellent around your puppy’s eyes. To treat their forehead and ears, place the product on a glove and massage it into those hard-to-reach areas. Don’t forget the paws.\n\nStore-bought tick products are toxic; placement is important to prevent your puppy from licking their body after treatment. If they’re tempted, occupy them with their favorite game until the product dries.\n\nFunnily enough (I guess), ringworm isn’t a worm — it’s a fungus. Round and irritating, this parasite feasts on the outermost layer of skin, on nails, and on hair follicles and is prevalent the world over. While most adult dogs develop a natural immunity to ringworm, it isn’t uncommon in young puppies. Though not fatal, it’s contagious through direct, skin-to-skin contact (dog-to-dog, dog-to-human, dog-to-whatever-living-thing) — and even through contact with objects or sur- faces that an infected person or animal has recently touched or rubbed against. Symptoms do not include itching in most pets, but can be recognized by circular, hairless patches or crusty areas of hair loss throughout the body.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 363, "chunk_index": 434, "id": "6bc6b2d3-b77e-4266-adab-9132689e4db4", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "Mites and mange, which live on skin and hair and in blood, are quite content hanging around on or in the skin or coat of your puppy. Before treating for these parasites, make sure you get a diagnosis from your vet to ensure that the treat- ment is parasite-specific. (Infections can cause some of the same symptoms.) Read on to find out what symptoms may indicate mites or mange.\n\nEar mites crawl into your puppy’s skin to reproduce. These eight-legged buggers nestle in your dog’s ear and feed on the outer layer of skin. The first sign of ear mites is your puppy’s behavior — they’ll scratch their ear intently, shake their head, and walk funny.\n\nYou can check for ear mites by examining your dog’s ear canal. If the canal is filled with brown wax and is crusty around the edge, take your pup to the vet. Your veterinarian can determine whether mites (or another sort of infection) are the problem and can quickly get your pup on the road to recovery. After your puppy\n\ngets a professional flushing from their doctor, you need to follow up with drops and cleaning procedures.\n\nMange mites are nasty little creatures that are related to ear mites. However, they’re more free-ranging than ear mites and often localize along the spine, legs, head, or underside of your puppy’s body. Here are the three different types of mange mites (talk to your vet for a diagnosis and treatment):\n\n» Cheyletiella, or walking dandruff: These critters hang out along your puppy’s spine and create a lot of flaking as they munch on their skin. The surest sign is intense scratching and nibble-biting along the spine.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 364, "chunk_index": 435, "id": "9b5de80a-357d-4504-9a9d-4792272b9f5d", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "» Demodectic mange: Demodex mites, which are noncontagious, are usually transferred from a mother dog to their pups during nursing. Under normal conditions, these mites coexist at a harmonious level with dogs. However, if a puppy gets stressed or is malnourished, they can multiply and create either a localized infection (the infected area loses hair and becomes itchy, red, and bald) or a widespread infection (creating large, inflamed, bald patches).\n\n» Sarcoptic mange: Otherwise known as scabies, these contagious crab-shaped bugs burrow into your puppy’s skin to lay eggs and sip blood. Their favorite spots are the head, legs, and underside. The surest sign is a puppy who literally can’t stop itching all over.\n\nAs much as you may want to control your pup’s itch with anti-inflammatories, don’t. Anti-inflammatory drugs, such as cortisone, lower an already weakened immune system.\n\nInternal parasites are much more of a health hazard to dogs than external para- sites are. Internal parasites are especially dangerous to puppies because they can really mess with the pup’s developing systems and can deplete the necessary bal- ance of nutrients.\n\nThe nasty heartworm is transmitted by mosquitoes (and therefore is more preva- lent in warmer climates) and lives in the chambers of the heart and in the lungs.\n\nLeft untreated, heartworm disease is fatal. Preventing this disease with medica- tion is much better than curing it after your puppy is affected.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 365, "chunk_index": 436, "id": "a41de2ff-8015-42b1-a47f-599610e1e078", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "Look into once-a-month prevention pills. These medications are prescribed according to weight. If you have a pup, be sure to ask your veterinarian how to accommodate for their growth. Though these pills are more expensive than daily pills, busy people often prefer them. They have the added advantage of preventing and treating many common intestinal parasites.\n\nFollow your veterinarian’s prescription. If they tell you to use the heartworm pre- vention year-round, you should do so. Also, your puppy must still have an annual heartworm test because prevention doesn’t work 100 percent of the time.\n\nThis section lists other nasty but fairly common internal parasites (see your vet for the diagnosis and treatment options):\n\n» Coccidia: These parasites lay their eggs in stools, and dogs become infected by eating other dogs’ stools. Intestines playing hotel to these creatures become inflamed, which leads to loose, watery stools, bloating, vomiting, weight loss, and strained elimination. Diagnosis and treatment are easy when the puppy is mildly affected and the stool that’s checked shows coccidian eggs; however, this isn’t always the case. You may need to have their stool checked more than once because the adult parasite isn’t recognizable under the microscope. If the puppy has an extreme case, the procedure to eliminate the invader can be detailed and costly.\n\n» Giardia: These water-loving creatures are found in most outdoor water", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 366, "chunk_index": 437, "id": "9545197e-e8cc-4450-90a2-b24639a7a127", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "sources, especially in warm climates. After being ingested, they feast on the inner lining of the small intestine, creating inflammation, which leads to loose, mucus-coated stools. vomiting, bloating, and weight loss. Left untreated, it can cause anemia and dry skin. These parasites are easy to detect, but early prognosis is the key, so get your pup to the vet if you notice symptoms. » Hookworms: Hookworms come by their name naturally: they literally hook onto your dog’s intestinal lining where they feast on your puppy’s blood, causing anemia that can be fatal if left untended. Puppies either pick up hookworms by eating an infected animal’s feces, or by nursing on their infected mom, or coming in contact with worms that creep through their tender skin. Symptoms include bloating, excessive gas, loose and smelly stools, weight loss with a failure to gain weight despite a large appetite, bloody stools, a dry and brittle coat, and even severe anemia and death.\n\n» Roundworms: This type of parasite floats inside a dog’s body — in the liver, through the heart, and in the lungs. In their final stage, roundworms settle in the small intestine, where they feast on what’s left of your dog’s dinner. Many dogs who have a case of roundworms are plagued with an insatiable appetite or no appetite and vomiting, smelly diarrhea, gas, and bloating. Often, dogs with roundworms have a potbellied appearance. Make an appointment with your vet if you suspect your dog has roundworms.\n\nPuppies can be infected with roundworms in utero or from nursing on an infected mom. Older dogs can become infected by ingesting roundworm eggs, which are shed in another dog’s stool and contaminate the environ- ment, often surviving for years. Lovely.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 366, "chunk_index": 438, "id": "e68a29fe-1b39-497d-a865-12d596f5a0bf", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "» Tapeworms: These critters leave evidence when they inhabit your pooch.\n\nI remember once asking my brother why a piece of rice was crawling out my dog’s rear end. Turns out it was a tapeworm. Yuck. Truth is, most people discover that their dog is infected with tapeworms by using the white rice diagnosis. Other subtle signs include an increased appetite accompanied by weight loss, rectal itching, abdominal pain, and indigestion. Dogs pick up this parasite by eating fleas, which serve as the tapeworms’ intermediate hosts. See your vet if you, too, find “rice” in your puppy’s bedding or around their potty spot.\n\n» Whipworms: Whipworms live and reproduce in a dog’s large intestine,\n\ncausing inflammation and the following symptoms: bloating and cramps, vomiting, bloody or mucus-coated stools, a dry and brittle coat, smelly diarrhea, and a diminished appetite. Puppies become infected with whip- worms by eating worm-ridden stools (an especially popular activity among pups!) or by stepping in feces and licking their paws.\n\nHookworms and roundworms aren’t strangers to humans. Children can fall victim to these parasites if their play area is frequented by free-ranging pets (cats as well as dogs). To prevent these problems, clean up after your puppy, wash your hands after cleaning, and check your child’s play area twice a day.\n\nChapter 19 Preventing Accidents and Knowing What to Do in an Emergency\n\nI want to do everything I can to spare you the trauma of an injured puppy: No one\n\nwants to see their baby hit, scraped, burned, poisoned, or suffering in the heat. But accidents happen, so this chapter will help you both prevent and prepare for", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 367, "chunk_index": 439, "id": "6e25cd8c-88a5-422f-a681-dff49b13f8a3", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "You can take a lot of proactive steps to avoid mishaps, from off-leash training and fencing to learning what environmental and household dangers to avoid. In the emergency sections in this chapter, I cover everything from creating a first aid kit to administering canine CPR, as well as provide emergency-care tips you can use while transporting your puppy to a veterinarian or an emergency hospital. Know- ing how to handle situations from cuts and burns to skeletal injuries can save your pup’s life!\n\nAccidents Happen: Preventing and Preparing Before They Do\n\nYou can do a lot to prevent accidents from happening to your puppy. Thinking out a few steps ahead and knowing your puppy’s personality and passions can stop a lot of incidents before they happen. Is your puppy a wire chewer? Tape them up or coat them with a distasteful spray such as bitter apple or oregano oil. Do you have a runner? Having a dog that likes to venture out into the world beyond can be scary for those left behind. First step: Get your puppy fixed — if procreation is on their mind, away they will roam. (For more on spaying and neutering, see Chapter 18.) You’ll also need to invest in off-leash training, trips to the dog park, or a fence. (See the later section “Fences Help” for enclosure options.) Is your puppy intent on ingesting interesting items — food items and otherwise? Keeping your house tidy can help, but having a first aid kit on hand and the poison control hotline in your contacts list is a must.\n\nPlan and collect items you may need in an emergency. Though none takes the place of veterinarian care, you may need to begin lifesaving measures immedi- ately to prevent your puppy from going into shock or losing blood.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 369, "chunk_index": 440, "id": "e00cab31-934a-4f02-9a7f-5742d2caa59f", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "Should an incident strike, stay very calm. Your puppy will be dealing with a lot of pain, which may result in lashing out aggressively, especially with well- intentioned strangers and hospital staff. If possible, muzzle-train your puppy ahead of time to allow quick usage.\n\nDo not give human medicines or pain relievers to a dog of any age: You may do much more harm than you intend.\n\nKeep your veterinarian’s number on speed-dial, and phone them immediately after an accident. Even if your dog seems okay, I recommend speaking with your veterinarian to discuss the issue and possible preventive tips. Additionally, have a backup plan if your veterinarian is out of the office or on vacation. Ask them to recommend a respected clinic for emergencies.\n\nYou can call the 24-hour National Animal Poison Control Center if your puppy has swallowed something poisonous: (888) 426-4435. (You may be charged a $65 fee; however, the immediate and professional assistance they offer is worth a pot of gold when your puppy is in distress.) Keep the label of the ingested matter on hand or describe what was swallowed; the operator is trained to talk you through the incident, translate symptoms, and tell you exactly how to handle each incident.\n\nAfter you have put a first aid kit together (see the nearby sidebar, “First aid kit for dogs and puppies”), condition your puppy to emergency handling. Practice when your puppy is naturally calm, and use high-value treats and stuffed toys to keep your puppy occupied and happy. Here are four moves that will condition your puppy to not only tolerate veterinary visits, but also enjoy them!", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 370, "chunk_index": 441, "id": "49c88777-bab1-45a9-b45b-20c141bfb580", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "» Muzzle on, muzzle off: Conditioning your puppy to wearing a muzzle is an absolute must. Make it a game and play just before feeding so that you can use their meals and high-value treats as motivation. Memorize the phrase “You look marvelous!” and say it to your puppy in a silly, happy tone each time they slip into their garment. Sure, it looks hideous to you, but wearing a muzzle at some point in their lives may be a necessary option., and a willing- ness to wear one may help them get the medical care they need. (Refer to my YouTube channel for visual tips!)\n\n» Gauze and hold: Pretend your puppy is bleeding. Just like with people, you need to apply continuous pressure on the wound. Practice holding gauze on an imaginary wound as you talk in a calming voice. Hold the pad on for three seconds, release, and then offer a treat. Continue to increase the holding time, and always reward your dog after you let go in order to reward their cooperation.\n\n» Pretend eye applications: When dogs feel uncomfortable, they squirm. To\n\nget yours used to having their face and eyes managed, have a friend lure your puppy with a treat or chew. Touch the dropper to your puppy’s cheek, at least 2” from their eye. Reward your dog after you pull the dropper away. Gradually increase the time and move closer to the eye itself, using a soft voice and touch, and provide tasty lures until your puppy is comfortable with the interaction.\n\n» Tweezers, flashlights, and plastic gloves, oh my! The same rules apply for these objects: Condition your puppy to the feel, smell, and sight of these strange objects before using them in an emergency.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 371, "chunk_index": 442, "id": "124f2fd8-dac2-4cc7-8c26-bb725929a9bc", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "A hundred years ago, the United States had only 8,000 cars and only 150 miles of paved road. These days, roads crisscross just about every path your dog might choose to explore. Though I hate to say it, because fences create a zoo-like vibe, having one is a necessary evil. When choosing a fence, however, you have a few options.\n\nIf you’re able to fence your yard, do it! Fenced enclosures allow your dog to have freedom versus constantly keeping them leashed or putting them on a tie-out. Both restrict your dog unnaturally and may cause injury or death if affixed to their tender neck. If possible, include your home, also known as your dog’s den, within the fenced area, versus placing the pen in a distant portion of the yard — all dogs prefer to be close to the den when resting or eating.\n\nYour puppy is a social creature and may not want to stay outside alone until they’re older and more confident. Be creative when decorating your dog’s play yard. Use jumps and tunnels, swinging objects, toys, bones, and puzzle feeders to direct your puppy’s attention when you play together.\n\n» Physical barriers: These above-ground fences are considered by most\n\n(including myself) to be the most humane because they don’t require that your dog wear a battery-operated collar that shocks your dog when they cross the flagged barrier.\n\nThe variety of physical fences includes picket, chain-link, and split rail.\n\nOne drawback to physical fences is that gates may be left ajar and your dog may wander. Be careful, especially when visitors come and go.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 372, "chunk_index": 443, "id": "1193fd23-9f30-495d-ade1-4c50e24e9ea2", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "» Underground electric wires: If a physical fence is out of the question,\n\nconsider going below the surface. Working with an electric fence company, you’ll determine the parameters and have the fence installed. After the wiring is in place, you’ll place flags in the ground to let the dog know the location of the fence border. You then take your dog to these flags with the electric collar to demonstrate how the shock works.\n\nSome dogs can habituate to the shock, even on the highest setting, so be mindful of selecting this as your fencing type if your dog is large and bold enough to burst through the shock.\n\nMany people attest that electrical collars are traumatizing and cruel. They are, however, a less expensive option and have caught on around the globe. Though I’m not one for strapping a pronged shocking-collar on my dogs, I respect any- one’s personal decision to do so.\n\nTraining your puppy to concentrate their attention\n\nWhen I hear about a puppy breaking away from their person and tragically getting hit by a car, I want to cry. I always think — could training have helped? After all, teaching your puppy the meaning of words like Come and Stay is so that you’re able to use them in a pinch to keep them safe around distractions. Off-leash con- trol can be easily shaped during your puppy’s late adolescence; flip to Chapter 13 for tips. Until that time, use long lines, dog parks, or enclosures to keep them safe.\n\nIf your puppy has an accident, stay cool. If you lose it, they’ll get nervous and go to pieces. Be a rock of confidence. Be mentally tough. Organize. Think. If neces- sary, get them to the hospital as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you’ve pre- pared with the following information, you’ll be fine.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 373, "chunk_index": 444, "id": "c33250f8-3b9f-4fe4-bbbb-b670b43f1808", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Even the most beloved pet may bite when they’re experiencing pain or confusion. All first aid kits should have a muzzle: See the tips in the “Playing puppy doctor”\n\nsection, earlier in this chapter, about “muzzle on, muzzle off,” or watch my YouTube video on how to positively condition your puppy to wear a muzzle.\n\nIf you’re caught unprepared, though, you can get by using a belt, rope, or bandana to prevent biting. Here’s how it would work with a bandana:\n\n1. Fold a bandana into a long band. 2. Drape the center of the band across the top of your dog’s nose. 3. Cross the two ends underneath your dog’s chin. 4. Tie the ends securely behind your dog’s ears. 5. Check the crossing point underneath. If the crossing point is too loose, your dog may paw it off; if it’s too tight, you may choke them.\n\nTransporting a dog who has internal injuries is a tricky business. They’ll be rest- less and want to move. Your job is to make sure they don’t. If you suspect a broken bone, spinal injury, or internal bleeding, transport your puppy on a firm surface, such as a sled, an oversized plastic lid, or a piece of plywood. Otherwise, placing your puppy on a sheet or towel is acceptable. Don’t cover their face, or they may panic.\n\nBe ready for an emergency anytime by having a dog-size board in your home or garage.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 373, "chunk_index": 445, "id": "63f6e04e-82ae-4424-a6a6-9af41ffcb7ec", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies can’t articulate pain. They can’t intellectualize it, meditate on it, or separate themselves from it. To them, it’s just pain — an intense feeling and a state of being. Pain puts dogs in a vulnerable state. It confuses their thought process and their physical organization. Their only drive is to protect themselves and alleviate their distress. Add that state of mind to your puppy’s natural tem- perament and what you get is a fairly unpredictable reaction. Though dogs experi- ence pain in the same way, they deal with it differently.\n\nChoking usually occurs when your puppy is chewing or playing with a toy and is suddenly challenged or startled or takes a deep breath. If you’re not around or you don’t react quickly, choking can be fatal. One way to prevent choking in the first place is to think smart: Don’t give your puppy toys that are smaller than the width of their muzzle, and remove any bones once they can fit inside your puppy’s mouth.\n\nIf your puppy chokes on something, stay calm and focused while following these steps:\n\n1. If you have a small dog, lay them on their side; if possible, bring your medium- or large-size dog to a standing position.\n\n2. Open their jaw to inspect their mouth carefully. If you can see an obstruction, remove it, unless a bone is jammed into their throat; let your veterinarian team know, because these kinds of objects require more careful removal.\n\nBe careful: You can jam the object farther in or get bitten if your dog is panicking.\n\n3. If you can’t dislodge the object, try a modified version of the Heimlich maneuver.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 374, "chunk_index": 446, "id": "e742c927-5280-4b86-83a4-49c218e3e23b", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "If your puppy can stand, clasp your hands together around their abdomen and pull up into their stomach just behind the sternum. (Identify this point ahead of time.) Repeat this action five times vigorously.\n\nIf they’re unable to stand or they’re wiggling, place your hand under their lowest rib and thrust up forcefully from the rib base to their spine. 4. If all else fails, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.\n\nPerforming artificial respiration (mouth- to-nose resuscitation) and CPR\n\nAs horrible as it is to see your puppy lying there after a fire or a car accident or after choking, ingesting poison, or being electrocuted, it may not be too late to save them. Be quick, stay calm, and think clearly when performing the following steps for performing artificial respiration:\n\nIf your pup’s heart is beating but they aren’t breathing, proceed to the next step. If you also don’t feel a pulse, see the step list after this one for administer- ing CPR.\n\n2. Check for any obstructions in the mouth, and clear the mouth of any blood or mucus.\n\n3. Pull their tongue out to make sure the airway is clear. 4. Shut their mouth gently. 5. Pull their lips over their mouth and secure them by wrapping one hand under their chin.\n\n6. Create an airtight funnel to their nose with your free hand. 7. Inhale, and then exhale air smoothly into your puppy’s nose. 8. Repeat every five to six seconds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 375, "chunk_index": 447, "id": "1f8f6b75-6b89-4c35-b3db-1d481bb0ac3d", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "If you can’t feel your puppy’s heartbeat, you must pump their heart for them by performing CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation), which means doing chest com- pressions in addition to the artificial breathing method just described.(Be sure to start chest compressions as soon as your puppy seems unresponsive — don’t bother with a pulse check; chest compressions are initially more important than rescue breaths.)\n\n1. If you have a large puppy (over 15 kg), lay them on their right side and place your hand over the widest part of their chest. If you have a small pup (under 15 kg), place your hand over the apex of the heart.\n\n2. Compress the heart area of the chest in short bursts, one compression per second.\n\nYou’ll know when you’ve saved your dog because they’ll come back to life. 4. Get your dog to an emergency veterinary clinic as soon as possible.\n\nIf they are sick enough to need CPR, they will require post-resuscitation support and close monitoring.\n\nIf your puppy is hurt and starts bleeding, you want to stop it immediately. Bleed- ing comes in three forms:\n\n» The everyday cut or scrape: This injury is no big deal. Twice a day, wipe the area with hydrogen peroxide to keep it safe from infection, and it should heal just fine.\n\n» A continuous or oozing stream: This type of bleeding requires medical\n\nattention immediately. Raise the body part above the heart, if possible, and apply bandages, one on top of the other, to soak up the blood as you press down on the area to slow the flow.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 376, "chunk_index": 448, "id": "6f367925-f5e3-4461-b70c-9033b40f22cf", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "» A gushing spurt-and-flow: This type of bleeding is serious — very serious. Your puppy can go into shock quickly and die if they lose too much blood. Place bandage on top of bandage, elevate the limb (if possible), and put constant pressure on their wound. Drive to the nearest animal hospital.\n\nIf you suspect internal bleeding, get your puppy to a hospital immediately. Inter- nal bleeding is a life-threatening situation. White gums, a distended abdomen, a bloody cough, or vomiting spells indicate internal bleeding.\n\nFind your puppy’s pressure points. While they’re sleeping, feel for the pulse near the hip and elbow joints. These arteries regulate blood flow and, in an emergency, you can press them to slow it down. You can also use ice packs to slow the flow of blood from oozing cuts and scrapes.\n\nMost bug bites are no more of an annoyance for a dog than they are for humans. A bump or scratch or a bit of swelling won’t alter the day too dramatically. How- ever, if a dog is allergic to the bite or sting, the reaction can be severe or even life-threatening. Symptoms of an allergy include facial swelling, hives, fever, joint pain, muscle ache, swelling, vomiting, and diarrhea. If your puppy has this reaction, seek medical attention immediately.\n\nA severely allergic dog goes into respiratory failure, which can be fatal within minutes. This reaction, anaphylaxis, requires immediate veterinary attention. If you know that your puppy is sensitive to insect bites, ask your veterinarian to pre- scribe a bee-sting kit that can counteract the reaction in an emergency.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 376, "chunk_index": 449, "id": "b80e32a0-053a-4376-9b83-33a5be8ee657", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "Although most snakes issue pressure bites when they feel threatened, most bites aren’t poisonous. How can you tell? Poisonous snakes have fangs that make holes in the skin. Here are some other general guidelines for telling whether a snake is dangerous:\n\n» Most native North American snakes that are solid colored or have stripes\n\n» Be careful of snakes with diamondback patterns, stripes running around the body, or those with blotch patterns. In North America, poisonous snakes include rattlesnakes, water moccasins, cottonmouths, coral snakes, and copperheads.\n\nIf your puppy is bitten by a poisonous snake, get them to their veterinarian imme- diately, phoning enroute so they know what to expect.\n\nBurns can result when a puppy’s curiosity strikes again and their mouth gets mixed up with chemicals or live wires. They can also be caused, of course, by con- tact with fire.\n\nStay calm if your puppy gets burned and get them to their veterinarian immedi- ately. Call the vet’s office in advance. Do whatever the veterinarian may suggest, such as pouring cool water over the area before you arrive.\n\nIf your puppy gets burned by chewing on electrical cords and is in pain, apply ice to the burns and give them ice water. Then take them to their veterinarian, who may prescribe an oral antibiotic gel to prevent infection and may recommend a dietary change until their mouth returns to normal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 377, "chunk_index": 450, "id": "38747a21-08c7-4a39-9b5a-3d680f1dff0f", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "Because dogs don’t have pores, they can’t sweat. The only way they can release heat is through the pads in their feet and by panting. Dogs can suffer from heat- stroke if left in poorly ventilated areas, such as a car or kennel, or if tired out or over-exercised on a humid day. If you notice that your puppy has shallow breath- ing, a rapid heart rate, and a high temperature, cool your puppy gradually with wet towels, a cool bath, or ice around their neck, head, and groin. Take them to the veterinarian if signs persist or worsen.\n\nHeatstroke is preventable. Never leave your puppy in a poorly ventilated environ- ment, and make sure water is always available on warm days. If an emergency necessitates leaving your puppy in the car, contain them in a kennel or seat-belt harness and leave the car running with the air conditioning on and doors locked. For cases like these, keep an extra set of keys in the glove compartment to take with you so that you can get back into your locked car.\n\nThe best solution is never to take your puppy with you on hot days. A car, even with all the windows down, can overheat within an hour — what a horrible way for a dog to die — locked in a hot automobile, just wanting, and waiting for, their caretaker to return.\n\nWalk (or, better yet, crawl) around your house and look at it from your puppy’s perspective. What looks tempting? You can use duct tape to secure wires, and you can clean off coffee tables and clear bookshelves. I know that you don’t want to rearrange your living space, but remember that puppies are like babies: They get into everything for the sheer fun of discovering something new.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 378, "chunk_index": 451, "id": "3d552820-2253-4889-aec6-f4b7021a9be2", "word_count": 300, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 390 } }, { "page_content": "Hanging there like a snake, an electrical cord or a telephone wire can be quite tempting to attack and chew. The damage can range from a sharp to lethal shock or a mild to third-degree burn. If you notice a severed cord, check your puppy’s mouth for burns (and then see “Treating burns,” earlier in this chapter).\n\nFor a list of all household dangers as well as poisonous plants and environmental concerns, you can search on line or download and print a free list from my website (Sarahsayspets.com).\n\nSome puppies love to swallow what they chew — especially if you’re trying to take the object away from them forcefully. The problem is that not all items can pass through a puppy’s intestines. Some get stuck inside, initially causing vomiting, gagging, dry heaves, or coughing, which can go on for days. If that’s not cause enough for alarm, the puppy’s loss of appetite is. If the intestine is blocked and nothing is done to remove the obstruction, the intestine ruptures, which can be fatal.\n\nTreatment depends on how soon you get your puppy to the vet, because you often don’t know whether the object is sharp or could break (thereby rupturing the intestines), whether it’s small and likely to pass, or whether it’s large enough to block digestion. Unless your veterinarian can induce your puppy to vomit up the object (which they may or may not be willing to do to guard your dog’s safety), an X-ray is needed to identify what was swallowed. To remove the foreign object, the doctor may order surgery.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 379, "chunk_index": 452, "id": "af9b84ef-f6a4-4c86-9f09-313162ba310f", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies love to play and, like children, can learn most of their life lessons by\n\nplaying games and having fun. Think back to your childhood: What are some of your fondest memories? Most everyone learns their most important life lessons — like how to share, use patience, and speak respectfully — in preschool or by playing sports and games with friends and family. Your puppy can learn patience and self-control through play, starting as young as eight weeks old.\n\nIn this chapter, you’ll find ten-plus games that are as fun to play as they are edu- cational. Watch as your puppy’s self-control and focus develop right in front of your eyes. Using directions like Wait, Sit, Down, and Come, you’ll play/train quick responses before your puppy has even lost their baby teeth.\n\nPuppies love to play Chase, but you’ll notice a theme in the games I describe in this chapter: Always encourage your puppy to chase you, not the other way around. Teaching your puppy to follow you and to drop an item they’re holding for the toy or treat you’re holding is an important habit to instill in a young puppy. Consider the opposite: a puppy who runs when you need them to come or who races off with a forbidden treasure, like your cellphone or one of the kids’ toys. Let me help you avoid that habit. Embedded in my description of the games in this chapter is the term “Can’t catch me,” which is a fun way to alert your puppy when you need to get their attention.\n\nThe Find It game is my dogs’ favorite activity. Anyone can play it (even strangers) to help your puppy’s mood, no matter what’s going on around them. Although I mention this game throughout the book, you can start teaching it anytime.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 383, "chunk_index": 453, "id": "e066d63d-0fe4-496e-8caf-a521f8f92b70", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Overall goal: To teach your puppy to look down to find a reward (treat, toy, bone)\n\nUse it: Use Find It to give your puppy some mental foraging fun with mealtimes, to distract an overstimulated puppy during greetings, play, or introductions to new people or dogs on a leash, or when spotting a squirrel, car, or bike. If you have an anxious puppy, Find It can infuse stressful situations with a fistful of fun!\n\nDirections: Pair Find It with Come, Follow, or Give to teach a quick, happy response and to reward quick responses to other directions, like Sit and On Your Mat.\n\nTo play: Begin by tossing one treat or kibble on the floor by your puppy’s toes as you say “Find it!” After your puppy catches on, toss the kibble by your own toes. Got that? Now take gradually bigger steps away from your puppy as you say “Find it — Follow.” Eventually, Follow will help your puppy keep up with you and stay close by your feet. When your puppy has the gist of it, you can expand the game, by tossing kibbles on the ground for them to forage or by using this game to dis- tract your puppy during greetings and other distractions. For more ideas, flip to the index: You’ll find Find It there, for sure.\n\nForaging mats are now marketed for dogs, designed to hide away a puppy’s entire meal in the cracks and crevices of a durable rug that your puppy can root about in yet cannot destroy. The mat is a great diversion for an active puppy, and you can build in the direction Find It, too. My kids and I love the mats: We spread out a good portion of our dogs’ meals and say “Find it” when we put down their indi- vidualized meal. Be sure to check them out.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 384, "chunk_index": 454, "id": "85b2c6a4-700f-4f15-ab94-298e6dd28c10", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "Overall goal: Tug-of-war is a favorite puppy game that is simple to play, and it just happens to be the best way to teach your puppy to “Give” up an object on cue. Notice as you read how the principles of tug-of-war are used to reward puppies for playing a game they love and how treats can be used to teach your puppy the meaning of the word “Give.”\n\nUse it: Since your puppy will love to tug on anything, with anyone, teach them to Tug only on their toys and only on cue. Through this simple and fun activity, you will build up your puppy’s self-esteem (I guarantee they’ll get this one right) and you’ll have a handy new way to redirect their excitement and frustration. Remem- ber this one rule however, especially when just starting out: Pocket and position treats strategically around your home so that each time you play “Tug” you can also teach your puppy to let go on cue.\n\nDirections: This game has two parts—the Tug and the Give. (See the next sec- tion.) Teach them the words independently of one another for 2 days, then pair them together!\n\nTo play: It’s easy to pair the word “Tug” with the action. Take any of your puppy’s fabric or rope toys, wiggle it until your puppy grabs hold, then say “Tug” as you apply resistance. That’s it. Over time, put a little more umpf into your Tug. Ini- tially, just use a second toy or high value food treat to encourage your puppy’s release. After two days of practicing the Tug and Give separately (as described below) pair them together as instructed.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 384, "chunk_index": 455, "id": "1453eb7e-2761-402f-ad0f-0b61de22adc4", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "Overall goal: You want to get an automatic “spit out” reaction whenever you say the word “Give.” The goal is to spit out whatever they’re mouthing, though not necessarily putting it in your hand.\n\nUse it: Aside from being a handy playing skill, “Give” has safety features that can’t be argued against. If your puppy has something you value in their mouths or an object that may endanger them, “Give” covers all bases. After you make “Give” less of a demand and more of a direction, your puppy will be eager to share their treasures.\n\nPlayers: “Give” can be taught to puppies early on, so puppies of all ages can play this game.\n\nTo play: When your puppy is chewing something, whether appropriate or not, approach them with a treat cup or a handheld treat. Hold the treat near their nose, saying “Give” the moment they release the object. If the object is their toy, how- ever, do not take it — let them keep it. If it’s something they (in your opinion) shouldn’t have, reward them with a jackpot of treats as you remove the object calmly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "page": 385, "chunk_index": 456, "id": "6e3c8faf-57b8-4656-95cf-cb58927caab7", "word_count": 188, "book_title": "Puppies For Dummies", "book_description": "Complete guide for puppies", "book_filename": "PuppiesForDummies.pdf", "token_count_approx": 244 } }, { "page_content": "A worldwide sea change in dog training that speaks for those who cannot speak for themselves is long overdue. The voices taking a clear stand against pain-based collar devices and aversive control methods masquerading as dog training grow louder.\n\nThe Hierarchy of Dog Needs defines Standards of Care and Best Practices in force-free training. Attending to animal welfare needs and exclusively force-free methods are setting the gold standard in emotional and behavioral modification and training. The ethical code embedded within The Do No Harm Dog Training® and Behavior Handbook and the Hierarchy of Dog Needs® (HDN) is grounded in animal welfare principles and dog-friendly dog training. By virtue of providing ethical standards and practices guidelines in the dog training field and industry, we hope to help lead the way, making life easier and more joyful for our dogs and the people who love them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "293fb8e5-3a0d-4ea3-9037-f73500506816", "word_count": 144, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 187 } }, { "page_content": "In developing a new force-free model of best practices, we no longer leave the door open for aversive/punitive measures in dog training. The extant training models focus largely on quadrants in learning theory yet sadly, have too often been misused as a rationale and justification for the application of punitive methods in training. The ubiquitous misapplication of methods in an unregulated industry is the problem. Doing psychological or physical harm to a captive dog points to a lack of skill and competence on the part of the trainer. There is no justification for harsh treatment or training with dogs, or any animal for that matter, unless one’s life or safety is in immediate danger. The methods detailed in the HDN may be used in any order without risk to the dog: Do No Harm methods never asks or directs the pet parent to hurt their dog psychologically or physically. We seek to “do no harm” physically or psychologically to dogs under our care and training at all times.\n\nShock collar training is a serious animal welfare concern in the United States and across the globe. Frequently, animal abuse masquerades as dog training. How can the average pet parent be expected to make a well- informed decision with regard to behavior modification tools when so many dog trainers, misinformed professionals, and manufacturers of shock\n\nproducts misrepresent the true nature of their effects? There is simply no place for shock, prong, choke, or other aversive devices in companion animal training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "59ad8f49-396c-48bf-a3f2-9908728e0f75", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "In “Why Shock is Not Behavior Modification,” principal investigator Dr. Karen Overall (2013), editor of the Journal of Veterinary Behavior states, “The use of shock is not treatment for pets with behavioral concerns” (p. 111). The popular myth that shock “saves lives” has no evidence to support it. Indeed, nothing could be further from the truth. A hypothetical fallacy with the alternative of either shocking a dog or euthanizing a dog is a patently false dichotomy commonly posed by shock proponents. Dr. Overall states unequivocally, “The use of shock does not bring dogs back from the brink of euthanasia; instead, it may send them there” (p. 111). Using punitive methods or devices in training can cause an increase in anxiety that often leads to further behavioral problems, resulting in pet parents relinquishing their animals to overflowing shelters. If progressive zoos are successful in changing the behavior of the animals in their care using force- free training methods alone, behavioral consultants, trainers and other professionals, ought to do the same for our pet dogs.\n\nIn addition, dog bites are an increasingly grave public safety issue, making dog-training methods a public health concern. Bite incidents resulting from the administration of shock are not uncommon—it is well documented in scientific literature that inflicting pain is a cause of aggressive behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "fbb6040e-b85f-42bb-b148-ad58a9fb7fef", "word_count": 217, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 282 } }, { "page_content": "The Hierarchy of Dog Needs has received a very positive and warm response from the dog loving community. It is in use by veterinary behaviorists, integrative and holistic veterinarians, gentle groomers, dog walkers, pet sitters and service dog organizations, trainers, and pet parents. It is designed for dog trainers teaching classes and those conducting private consultations. The infographic is particularly helpful to shelters, rescues, foster pet parents, and animal welfare advocates. It is in use as a teaching guide in colleges, on websites, on television, and by a growing, international base of pet parents interested in the Do No Harm ideology and practice of dog training.\n\nDr. Katrina Ward, DVM, remarking on her presentation of the HDN to the Australian Veterinary Association conference said, “The Hierarchy of Dog Needs was very well received and hopefully will be taken up as a routine method of assessing needs and applying humane behavior\n\nmodification” (as cited in Michaels, 2015/2020). Dr. Lynn Honeckman, DVM and behavior specialist in Orlando, Florida, uses the HDN to teach pre-vet students in her veterinary clinic presentations. Everyone from national crisis response human and dog trainers to working dog trainers are using it. In a television morning show featuring the Hierarchy of Dog Needs Maarja Tali, guest lecturer at Tallin University in Estonia says,", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "c48504a0-4bd2-45a0-b54b-2e8a96eff96e", "word_count": 215, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 279 } }, { "page_content": "After the basic needs are met, dogs need to feel safe and loved. Relationships are as important to dogs [as they are to humans]. So, before we start drilling or shaping or teaching or training, it is much more important that we have a good trust-based relationship with our dog. One of the most important messages here is that before we even get to training, we need to understand whether the dog is ready to learn. (Tali, 2019)\n\nPart 1. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs Standards of Care and Best Force- free Practices provides the theoretical foundations that support the Hierarchy of Dog Needs for each level of the pyramid and elaborates on each method of Force-free Training. Part 1 includes fully referenced, scientific citations for professionals and readers assuring scientific rigor. The citations enable force-free practitioners and supporters to empirically defend their stance on animal welfare needs, providing the evidence to do so at their fingertips. Part 1 is also designed for speakers, researchers, and instructors as informative presentations based upon dog-centered needs and the Hierarchy of Dog Needs/Do No Harm paradigm. The For the Pet Professional section offers various ways that pet professionals can use The Hierarchy of Dog Needs and the Do No Harm handbook to teach others. Pet professionals will find information on creating presentations, how to use the handbook in private consultations, how to create coursework for class curricula and ideas for using the HDN and the handbook in social media with examples that both carry the Do No Harm/force-free message and enhance and support business goals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 36, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "19739662-8507-41b2-b3e4-d3f793724f11", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Chapter 1 discusses Biological Needs, including proper nutrition, the need for fresh water, sufficient and appropriate exercise, sufficient air with a focus on brachycephalic breeds, sufficient sleep, avoiding outdoor hazards with indoor shelter, and proper temperature control avoiding hyperthermia and hypothermia. Chapter 1 also illustrates the critical need for gentle grooming and gentle veterinary care. Chapter 2 address the Emotional\n\nNeeds for security which fosters secure attachment, love, trust, consistency, and benevolent leadership. Chapter 3, Social Needs, explores bonding with people and dogs, and the purpose of play. Cognitive Needs detailing the relevance of choice, novelty and problem-solving activities are examined in Chapter 4.\n\nChapter 5, Force-free Training Needs defines force-free dog training and thoroughly describes the best practices listed in the Hierarchy of Dog Needs guide: Management, antecedent modification, positive reinforcement, the types of differential reinforcement, classical and counterconditioning, desensitization, the Premack Principle, and social learning are all defined and illustrated with straightforward, clear, dog-centered examples of each method.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 36, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "81f16921-9acd-4394-afef-2707e384c235", "word_count": 160, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 208 } }, { "page_content": "Part 2. Setting Your Dog Up for Success is useful for pet professionals and pet-parents, as it lays the groundwork for success in raising a dog: Chapter 6 explores why success begins with choosing a puppy or dog that is likely to fit your lifestyle. In chapters 7–8, specific criteria are outlined to help pet parents find a competent and kind dog trainer, and to select a dog- friendly veterinarian and groomer, some of the most determinative decisions one will make in a dog’s lifetime. Chapter 9 explains how to socialize a puppy or dog safely and carefully and how to avoid the common pitfalls of flooding puppies and rescue dogs with stimuli that can cause well-intended plans to backfire. Chapter 10 explores how and why to provide enrichment. Part 2 concludes with a discussion in Chapter 11 on the importance of learning dog body language to better understand how your dog is trying to communicate with you and others.\n\nPart 3. Good Manners and Basic Training focuses on manners and training mechanics in an easy-to-learn and follow step-by-step roadmap of the nuts and bolts of teaching the basic skills everyone wants their dogs to learn. Chapter 12 explains the top ten tips for successful housetraining. Chapter 13 teaches how to replace puppy and adult dog biting, mouthing and chewing with alternate behaviors. In Chapters 14 and 15, training techniques and trainer “secrets” provide instructions for teaching dogs with the methods that successful force-free trainers use. All of the basic training needs including calm greetings, no jump, sit, down, wait, lightning recall (come) and leash-walking skills are found in Chapter 16. Part 3 includes", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "0d2d0707-a996-4bda-9122-068e16c07d13", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "numerous examples making sometimes complex learning principles and techniques easy for anyone to teach and understand.\n\nPart 4. When Things Go Wrong addresses behavior problems rooted in emotions that professional trainers and pet parents often find difficult to understand and treat. Largely written for the advanced-level behavior consultant, Chapter 17 focuses on aggression of all kinds providing trainers with the tools they need to address the most challenging cases. This chapter provides easy-to-understand and use protocols for problem-solving on aggression topics including red flags, an assessment intake form for private behavioral consultations, a liability contract, and a veterinary behavioral report. Chapter 17 also explores desensitization and counterconditioning exercises and techniques for frustration reactivity, human and dog-dog aggression, sibling rivalry in multi-dog households, resource guarding and a Do Not list for family, friends, and visitors. Chapter 18 provides assessment, management and adjunct treatment of allergies to the veterinary plan. The nuanced triggers for barking and how to decrease barking and stress are explored in Chapter 19. Chapter 20, helps the pet parent and the consultant develop a dogs and babies plan that begins, ideally, far before the new baby comes home. In Chapter 21, the causes and treatment of fear are explored. In closing, Part 4, Chapter 22, provides a comprehensive assessment and treatment plan for separation anxiety disorder and related behaviors.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "e37b32de-3bea-49cd-a01f-8126ef2d3904", "word_count": 221, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 287 } }, { "page_content": "I hope this book may help dogs and the people who love dogs, whether they work with dogs professionally, or touch dogs’ lives in any way. Let’s help them to thrive.\n\nelcome to a new era in dog training. Marking the emergence of the force-free age in the field of dog training, The Hierarchy of Dog Needs® is a logical and progressive paradigm whose time has come. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs (HDN) is a wholistic system of care that takes a clear and ethical stand on dog welfare needs and dog-training methods and devices. The HDN is a novel adaptation of renowned psychologist Abraham Maslow’s Hierarchy of (human) Needs that emphasizes strengths, positivity, free will/choice, and a belief in the wholeness of animal nature (Maslow, 1943). Research shows that when biological needs, safety needs, and belongingness needs are met for social animals, they are far less likely to display abnormal behavior. The is supported by scientific evidence as Hierarchy of Dog Needs demonstrated in this handbook and makes no apologies for embracing protective ethics concerning our beloved dogs.\n\nThe Hierarchy of Dog Needs infographic and this handbook provide teaching tools for all types of industry professionals and pet parents to use as a force-free alternative to the more conventional but dated teaching paradigms currently available. Anyone who interacts with or studies dogs, or any animal for that matter, can use it successfully. The HDN lists dog needs hierarchically but the levels are fluid rather than static. Once basic needs have been assessed and met, the training methods may be used in any order of choice, dependent upon the situation, context, and expertise of the handler.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "d094d776-400e-46e2-a316-1e7b2c177dcc", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "The Hierarchy of Dog Needs is a guide to animal wellness and Do No Harm Dog Training. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs was created as a guide to standards of basic care in dog welfare needs and best force-free training practices. The HDN is in use internationally by veterinarians, veterinary behaviorists, dog trainers (including working-dog and police-dog trainers), groomers, shelters, rescues, animal welfare advocates, and pet parents. The HDN has been translated into French, Spanish, Portuguese, Danish, Chinese, German, Estonian, Korean, Greek and Arabic to date, with many more requests awaiting translation.\n\nThe Hierarchy of Dog Needs is a tool for animal wellness and serves as an essential companion to the Do No Harm Dog Training Handbook. HDN\n\nForce-free Training Needs methods and this handbook may be used for both common behavioral problems and the most challenging issues, such as housetraining, loose leash-walking, excessive barking, separation anxiety, fear, dog-dog aggression, human aggression, resource guarding, and more. It can help to identify the primary, secondary, and other problems affecting the dog and help guide the path of training.\n\nThere is an increasingly strong dog-human bond in society and it makes sense that a more dog-friendly, dog-needs paradigm was needed and thus developed. Too often basic needs are not met or are under met. Dog needs are not considered in punitive or “balanced” training approaches where the focus is on punishing unwanted pet dog behavior and not on dog welfare. Do No Harm training makes dogs’ lives better because it is more effective, safer, and has longer lasting effects. Do No Harm is truly dog friendly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "3266a9fc-8dd0-49d2-84a4-6da223eb491d", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "The Hierarchy of Dog Needs infographic is not intended to be a treatise on learning theory. Science has examined many different types of learning that sensitization, desensitization, positive reinforcement, positive punishment, negative reinforcement, negative punishment, extinction, imitation, mimicry, and social learning. In other teaching paradigms, understanding behavior uses Skinnerian-related quadrants as a means to categorize response frequency. Placing every behavior response into a quadrant is not always helpful or the best approach to understanding emotional and behavioral modification and training needs. Only those methods that are physically and emotionally safe for dogs are included on the HDN and taught in the handbook.\n\nThe HDN pyramid infographic was designed to be a stand-alone guide covering as much critical territory for dog welfare and training in a one- page format as feasible. The HDN addresses as many primary needs and force-free training methods as possible, however, no infographic can convey all things to all pet professionals. Scientific advisor Dr. Luis Suoto Soubrier aptly points out, “The main message and the paramount goal of The Hierarchy of Dog Needs are clear. By introducing further nuances and provisos, even after writing an exhaustive (and exhausting to read) set of rules, we would still, unavoidably, be simplifying reality anyway” (L. Suoto Soubrier, personal communication, 2015).\n\nThe joys, challenges, and responsibilities of pet parenting involve loving care and fit well with The Hierarchy of Dog Needs model. Of primary importance is the enhanced relationship the pet parent nurtures with their", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "11381e30-6ab1-4e4e-9dc6-ef828395fb91", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "dog by using the HDN. Nurturing and developing social skills and confidence in your dog sets the stage for optimal well-being, using force- free training, instead of instilling fear and potentiating aggression.\n\nDo No Harm is fast becoming the gold standard of care throughout the dog-training field. Pet parents and professionals are now applying emotional and behavioral modification methods using the Do No Harm model. The time has come to chart a new course making responsible dog training method the best practice.\n\nEthics are at the very heart of Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook and the HDN. The embedded Do No Harm ethical code follows force-free, aversive-free, punitive-free training methods alone as best practices. To stem the tide of animal abuse in the dog training industry, canine behavior consultants are raising their voices in regulating practices in the field of dog training.\n\nThe Pet Professional Guild (PPG) (2020c) is the first international, independent certifying dog take a clear, uncompromising, antithetical position on the use of shock, prong, choke, dominance, pain and fear-based methods in dog training. Members are fully vetted and must conform to a non-negotiable ethical code of conduct and standards. Members forfeit their membership status for violations of the ethical standards. We need more of these organizations to help protect and defend our dogs’ well-being.\n\nProfessional organizations caring for and treating sentient beings all have ethical codes guiding their members and detailing acceptable standards of care. Let’s take a look at what the most highly esteemed and prestigious organizations in related fields have to say about ethics.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "cb7cf4fe-12b5-4930-9b55-9f5f13a9031c", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA)\n\nThe Principles 4. A veterinarian shall respect the law and also recognize a responsibility to seek changes to laws and regulations which are contrary to the best interests of the patient and public health.\n\nThe Principles with Supporting Annotations 1. A veterinarian shall be dedicated to providing competent veterinary medical care with compassion and respect for animal welfare and public health. 2.1 Veterinarians should first consider the needs of the patient: to prevent and relieve disease, suffering, or disability while minimizing pain or fear. 3.3 Veterinary Medical educators should stress the teaching of ethical issues as part of the professional veterinary curriculum for all veterinary students. (AVMA, 2019)\n\n“Changing Behavior, Behavior Modification, Aversive Techniques” (AAHA, 2015).\n\nThis Task Force opposes training methods that use aversive techniques. Aversive training has been associated with detrimental effects on the human–animal bond, problem-solving ability, and the physical and behavioral health of the patient. It causes problem behaviors in normal animals and hastens progression of behavioral disorders in distressed animals. Aversive techniques are especially injurious to fearful and aggressive patients and often suppress signals of impending aggression, rendering any aggressive dog more dangerous. Aversive techniques include prong (pinch) or choke collars, cattle prods, alpha rolls, dominance downs, electronic shock collars, lunge whips, starving or withholding food, entrapment, and beating. None of those tools and methods should be used to either teach or alter behavior. (AAHA, 2015, p. 212)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "21412669-cb51-47ea-b699-212025898f34", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "In 1847 the American Medical Association (AMA) was founded establishing educational and ethical standards for the profession. The AMA’s Code of Medical Ethics, the world’s first national ethical code of the embodies medicine’s professional professionalism and self-regulation on which public trust rests. Nearly 100% percent of medical schools administer the Hippocratic Oath as a guide to moral conduct in treating those under the care of their members, urging medical school graduates to “Do No Harm” to the best of their ability (Tyson, 2001). The AMA Journal of Ethics has a dedicated website page entitled, First Do No Harm (2019). AMA Principles of Medical Ethics (1995–2021) standard of conduct include\n\nPrinciples of Medical Ethics 3. A physician shall respect the law and also recognize a responsibility to seek changes in those requirements which are contrary to the best interests of the patient. 8. A physician shall, while caring for a patient, regard responsibility to the patient as paramount. (AMA, 2021)\n\nThe American Psychological Association (APA) published the first edition of the Ethical Standards of Psychologists in 1953, more than 60 years ago. The APA ethical standards of care undergo continuous review and are now\n\nknown as the APA’s “Ethical Principles of Psychologists and Code of Conduct”. These mandates not only require adherence to the law but raise the bar on ethics. From the “Ethical Principles of Psychologists and Code of Conduct” official webpage: Including 2010 and 2016 Amendments (APA, 2017).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 47, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "a4aa8fb9-0deb-4484-ae0e-74bd63c0ae86", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "Introduction and Applicability In the process of making decisions regarding their professional behavior, psychologists must consider this Ethics Code in addition to applicable laws and psychology board regulations… If this Ethics Code establishes a higher standard of conduct than is required by law, psychologists must meet the higher ethical standard. This Ethics Code is intended to provide specific standards to cover most situations encountered by psychologists. It has as its goals the welfare and protection of the individuals and groups with whom psychologists work and the education of members, students and the public regarding ethical standards of the discipline.\n\nGeneral Principles. Principle A: Beneficence and Nonmaleficence Psychologists strive to benefit those with whom they work and take care to do no harm [emphasis added]. In their professional actions, psychologists seek to safeguard the welfare and rights of those with whom they interact professionally and other affected persons and the welfare of animal subjects of research.\n\nSection 2: Competence 2.03 Maintaining Competence Psychologists undertake ongoing efforts to develop and maintain their competence. 2.04 Bases for Scientific and Professional Judgments Psychologists’ work is based upon established scientific and professional knowledge of the discipline. (APA, 2017)\n\nHarsh methods are not a viable treatment for emotional and behavioral modification in sentient creatures or a treatment for aggression. Harsh methods are commonly a cause not a cure of aggression (Overall, et al., 2006; FDA, 2014).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "ab8c1fcc-4dcf-4acd-9bdb-d0caf07a5052", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "Behavior is complex. No single model of behavior can comprehensively understand, explain and predict behavior. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs however is multi-modal, multi-dimensional, and based upon a number of behavioral models providing a more complete and eclectic representation of learning and behavior than any one of the classic models of behavior do alone. Below are some popular schools of thought and theories about the nature of behavior.\n\nThe Behavioral Model attributes behavior to the environment. The through antecedents and postcedent environment drives behavior consequences. Behavioral Analysis is based upon the if, then contingency. Behavior is learned, that is conditioned through\n\n1. Classical Conditioning: Associations learned by pairing one stimulus —the antecedent, to another stimulus\n\n2. Operant Conditioning: Reinforcement or punishment also known as consequences or postcedents\n\nMore often than not both classical conditioning and operant conditioning occur simultaneously and are inextricably linked with each other. However, these two types of learning are typically spoken of independently so students and trainers may more easily understand the concepts of behaviorism. With this clarity, practitioners can identify the underlying principles leading to the formulation of a plan for treating a specific problem, behavior, or emotion. The researchers most notably responsible for developing these representational systems of behavior are research scientists Ivan Pavlov and B. F. Skinner.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "1eff3233-a8cb-4858-aee4-3c05eb5c4fcf", "word_count": 214, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 278 } }, { "page_content": "This model theorizes that a dog bites a person because the dog has been reinforced or punished for biting, or the dog associates the person with something that previously caused an involuntary physiological response and/or a learned aversive response.\n\nThe Affective Neuroscience Model of behavior attributes behavior to functions of the brain modulated by hormones. The emotional systems model theorizes that environment, behavior, and emotion cannot be isolated from each other, resulting in the activation of multiple emotional and behavioral systems in any given schema. Some of the most notable researchers in this area include Charles Darwin, Jaak Panksepp, and Joseph E. Ledoux.\n\nThis model theorizes that a dog bites a person because the dog is\n\nexperiencing fear, panic, or rage on the neurological and hormonal levels.\n\nThe Ethological Model of behavior attributes behavior to evolutionary adaptive traits with a focus on field studies in natural environments. The identification of Modal Action Patterns (MAP), inherited tendencies to make specific and complex responses to specific environmental stimuli, helping scientists to understand behavior. Some of the most notable researchers in this area include Charles Darwin, Konrad Lorenz, Niko Tinbergen, and Simon Gadbois.\n\nThis model theorizes that a dog bites a person because it is adaptive to\n\nsurvival to bite when threatened or to compete for resources.\n\nThe Medical Model of behavior attributes behavior to wellness or the lack thereof. Veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists build their treatment plans based upon this model.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "7c56fb96-83bc-4383-b8a3-7bf712db4b60", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "This practice theorizes that a dog bites a person because the dog has a\n\nThe Biological Model of behavior attributes behavior to genetics or DNA, determined by heredity and breeding.\n\nThis model theorizes that a dog bites a person because of the propensity\n\nfor aggression acquired through the dog’s lineage.\n\nIII. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs—The Third Force in Behavior\n\nStudents of psychology are familiar with The Hierarchy of [human] Needs. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs is a novel variation of renowned psychologist, Abraham Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, adapting a human model of behavior to fit dogs. Similar needs occur in all species.\n\nAnimal models of human needs are traditionally used in research where the results and conclusions are extrapolated to humans to help us understand disease and develop treatments in medicine and behavior. Pavlov developed his theories of classical conditioning using dogs as his subjects in research. Skinner developed his theories of operant conditioning using pigeons as his research subjects. The field of comparative psychology explores cross-species comparisons, including those between humans and animals (Tinbergen, 1963).\n\nMaslow, disenchanted with the popularized behaviorist paradigm of his time, cofounded the school of thought in psychology called humanism, the Third Force that emerged subsequent to psychoanalysis and behaviorism the summer of 1938, Maslow conducted (Leahey, 2001). During anthropologic research on a Blackfoot Native American reservation that is believed to have inspired him to theorize a new understanding of the fundamental features of human nature (Taylor, 2019).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "0dc88f10-8375-47b6-9c17-7b7f56565ccf", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "Humanistic psychology emphasizes strengths, positivism, choice, and a belief in the wholeness of animal nature. In Maslow’s own words: “Self- actualized people have the wonderful capacity to appreciate again and again, freshly and naively, the basic goods of life, with awe, pleasure, wonder and even ecstasy, however stale these experiences may have become to others” (Maslow, 1943, pp. 370–396). Does this not definitively describe what we often observe in our dogs? We witness our dogs taking great joy in simple things, over and over again. Taking a (w)holistic view of the sentient dog, The Hierarchy of Dog Needs combines both wholeness and behaviorist templates for wellness and emotional and behavioral modification understanding that both mental events and previously reinforced learned behaviors are causal. Humanism asserts that the present and the future and the past influence us.\n\nFollowing on the heels of Maslow’s work and others, the former President of the American Psychological Association, and renowned research scientists, Martin Seligman, became the face of Positive Psychology (Seligman, 2020). He called for an alternative to psychology’s “relentless focus on the negative” and for research into growth, mastery and drive. Today, much research and many academic textbooks explore topics including well-being, the science of happiness, and peak performance. Seligman’s most famous work on learned helplessness (Seligman, 1972) demonstrated that dogs that had previously learned that escape from shock was impossible, would not even attempt to escape once escape was on option. His breakthrough research shows that mental events are causal, even in our dogs (Seligman cited in Schultz & Schultz, 2008).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "796ca44b-948d-4f99-8ee1-404570784683", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "Maslow further developed his theory in Motivation and Personality, the significance of relationships (Maslow, 1954). The highlighting Hierarchy of [human] Needs remains a very popular framework in secondary and higher education psychology instruction and research. The nature of our relationships with our dogs deserves more attention, thus introducing this adaptation to dog care and training is a unique pleasure.\n\nDogs have the opportunity to reach an optimal state of well-being when all their needs are met. This is the singular objective of The Hierarchy of Dog Needs principles and procedures, standards of care and best practices. All needs highlighted in the Hierarchy of Dog Needs are interconnected. Needs are similarly dynamic in humans. Researchers find those whose needs for safety and belongingness are met are far less likely to display\n\ndistraught and disordered behavior than those who have not had these needs satisfied (Schultz & Schultz, 2008).\n\nNote: While a pyramid has become a popular way to represent The Hierarchy of [human] Needs, Maslow himself never used a pyramid to illustrate his levels in any of his writings on the subject.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "6fc3b4a0-86ce-4bfb-9fcd-da3ee8b2a72c", "word_count": 181, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 235 } }, { "page_content": "here is a cry for help from shelter facilities to veterinary offices for a new framework to successfully modify behaviors without causing physical or psychological harm to our dogs. The Do No Harm Training and Behavior Handbook answers that call. This handbook illustrates how specific needs and force-free training methods are inherently connected, opening the door for conversations with other pet professionals and with clients. In addition, it elucidates how to inspire professionals to invest in a total program of care and training. By design, this handbook encourages collaboration between force-free pet professionals to refer to and support other force-free professionals to achieve optimal well-being for\n\nthe whole dog. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs (HDN) graphic is used in speaker presentations at veterinary conferences and lectures at local humane societies and pet expositions.\n\nThe Do No Harm handbook identifies primary, secondary, and other problems affecting dogs and guides the reader on the assessment, treatment, and training path. It accounts for both dog and client needs, helping the pet professionals or pet parents to create a comprehensive training plan. This training handbook also provides an outline for class and private consulting.\n\nReview The Hierarchy of Dog Needs infographic with your client and take notes about problem areas; this will assist in uncovering additional training needs. Creating a to-do list helps the professional to set the training focus on the specific needs of their client and dog, providing a comprehensive plan for both.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 55, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "f624dc83-5869-4717-be4e-525b98437b06", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "When working up the pyramid, identify unmet and under-met needs and areas of particular interest or concern. Working down the list of training methods on the left side of the pyramid outlines how to address behavioral issues. Details explaining each method are also discussed in Part 1. The remainder of the handbook contains information regarding the application of these methods, which may be used in any order or combination. In this manner, pet professionals may establish the required number of sessions needed for a comprehensive approach to address the underlying motivations of problem behaviors and identify the various contexts where such behaviors occur.\n\nThe Do No Harm handbook is designed for use in media and the development of professional treatment plans. Consider the following uses:\n\nSocial media groups Virtual training Blogs Websites Television spots Webinars Podcasts\n\nVeterinary behaviorists Allopathic, progressive, integrative, and holistic veterinarians Veterinary technicians and assistants Pet chiropractic and acupressure specialists Manners trainers Agility trainers Working dog trainers Service dog trainers Therapy dog trainers T-touch practitioners Pet therapists Dog walkers Pet sitters Gentle groomers Rescue group directors, staff, and volunteers Animal shelter management and employees Foster pet parents Responsible breeders Dog daycare operators Pet store owners Pet food manufacturers and distributors Pet photographers\n\nWhat follows are examples of the many ways various professionals can use the Do No Harm Dog Training handbook.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "6c3b5958-e218-43c9-889d-5ba1254e36a0", "word_count": 224, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 291 } }, { "page_content": "Use this handbook as a guide for explaining either very specific issues identified in the hierarchy’s pyramid, force-free training methods, or both, during speaker, lecture, or other formats of presentation. Each section can also serve as a standalone topic for a presentation tailored to the interest of a sub-population of dog lovers. For example, one topic of interest is the need for proper temperature control and how to avoid hyperthermia in the summer, and hypothermia in winter. Or a speaker for a breed rescue group might create a presentation on brachycephalic airway obstruction from the section of the handbook devoted to the need for air.\n\nExamples for Pet Bloggers and Television Interviews\n\nThe topics in this handbook and The Hierarchy of Dog Needs make excellent blog material. Force-free advocates can easily use the HDN to television spot explain dog needs and force-free presentations.\n\nDo No Harm Management and Best Force-free Practices methods illustrated by The Hierarchy of Dog Needs are a great segue laying a foundation for force-free training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 58, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "70659438-bb4f-4f03-8ac0-339b96af4415", "word_count": 169, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 219 } }, { "page_content": "Consider developing a lesson guide of basic skills using the Do No Harm Dog Training Handbook as a foundation, using The Hierarchy of Dog Needs infographic as a handout for discussion during class. Use the training techniques and trainer “secrets,” such as capturing, luring, shaping, linking, and real-life reinforcement to teach force-free best practices in the context of teaching name response, sit, down, wait/stay, come, and leash-walking. Trainers who teach classes may rearrange the topic material and teach a basic skill in each class. Referencing the HDN throughout lessons with clients helps to emphasize the importance of meeting needs and learning force-free methods. The goal for any class is empowering clients to use force-free methods for problem-solving when training issues arise when you are not there in class to guide them. Include a copy of the HDN in take- home training packets.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 58, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "965c7030-a406-465b-9873-5cf3300145ca", "word_count": 142, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 184 } }, { "page_content": "Review the HDN infographic with your client during the first consulting session. Assess training needs and identify the methods you will use from the force-free training methods chart on the left side of the handout. Help address unwanted behavior with explanations of differential reinforcement, counterconditioning, and desensitization methods. Take notes on a master copy. Private consultants can identify behavioral problems needing attention and lead to the development of a treatment plan to determine which basic skills are missing from a family’s repertoire to help the troubled dog and client. Address the needs and topics you feel most competent and comfortable teaching. For example, the client may want recommendations on nutrition and exercise. A conversation on Emotional Needs and trust often reveals fearful or aggressive behavior only a qualified behavior consultant can safely and adequately address. A discussion on Social Needs and attachment may uncover a separation/attachment issue or disorder associated with pet parents, or with other dogs in the family.\n\nAnother idea is to create a poster of the HDN for your facility or classroom wall. Have a print company create an unaltered, uncropped (as is) poster from a print-ready file available to force-free advocates from the author.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "29114cb0-c674-4ca3-88f5-3386c9c3d063", "word_count": 198, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 257 } }, { "page_content": "The Hierarchy of Dog Needs (HDN) includes gentle veterinary care as an essential biological health need. As the primary contact professionals, veterinarians are in a position to make the greatest impact on the physical and psychological well-being of the dogs under their loving care. Veterinarians can take a leadership role with pet parents and other pet- related professionals in the animal welfare and force-free movement by using The Hierarchy of Dog Needs and the accompanying Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook. They are encouraged to share The Hierarchy of Dog Needs with colleagues, patients, trainers, and at speaking engagements, such as in seminar presentations for veterinary conferences. Veterinarians are encouraged to refer only to force-free/Do No Harm dog trainers and consultants. (See Chapters 1 and 8, Gentle Veterinary Care.)\n\nMake your rescue or shelter truly force-free by adding a copy of the HDN infographic to the take-home packet with each newly adopted dog. Post a laminated copy on the gate to each dog’s kennel as a reminder to everyone who enters of how to use force-free handling and training techniques with the focus on meeting emotional needs and decreasing stress. Ensure that all management, staff, volunteers, and foster parents have access to a copy of the infographic as a means to educate everyone connected to your adoption agency. Post a copy on your website and social media sites.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "c8c8b692-54a6-4062-a49e-fcc21f337afa", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "Groomers may blog or offer presentations on the benefits of gentle grooming, the importance of proper hygiene, removal of fur nests that may serve as havens for bacteria, and proper nail clipping to prevent long nails from impeding a dog’s natural walking gait or the structural functions of the spine. Use the handbook to develop a training packet that includes information about pet grooming provided in the gentle grooming sections to help the client’s dog learn to tolerate and even enjoy grooming.\n\nProvide a copy of The Hierarchy of Dog Needs infographic in the educational and guidance packets of each new pet parent and discuss the needs and do no harm training practices you want to guarantee to your adoptees.\n\nNote: The reproduction, use, or modification of the Hierarchy of Dog Needs® is strictly prohibited in any product sold for profit where the primary value of the product is the reproduction itself, such as on t-shirts or coffee mugs.\n\nFuture Directions in Research, Law, and the Role of Celebrities\n\nThe time has come to chart a new course. Do No Harm principles and ethics are fast becoming the gold standard of care throughout the dog training profession. Scientists, legislators, and celebrities are urged to take a clear\n\nand unwavering position against the physical and psychological harm our dogs suffer, pioneering the cultural change essential in creating truly dog- friendly societies. Worldwide, progressive zoos and sanctuaries have moved away entirely from using punitive and other aversive methods, even when working with large and potentially dangerous animals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "88af68fe-39cd-4615-9ec7-df238a09f6df", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Dog bites are a serious and growing public safety issue and it is well- documented in scientific literature that inflicting pain is frequently a cause of aggressive behavior. Bite incidents may result from the direct administration of shock (Polsky, 2000). Aggression is not the only emotional disturbance stemming from punitive and aversive training methods. According to an article in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior, “Good Trainers: How to Identify One” (Overall et al., 2006), investigators placed shock collars, prong collars, and choke collars at the top of the list of equipment that causes anxiety, fear, and arousal, which often contributes to an increase in aggression. A growing number of governments in progressive animal-welfare sensitive nations ban the use of these devices on pet dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "b9b8266a-3ad9-43aa-9bb7-e94e6b3cfc5b", "word_count": 124, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 161 } }, { "page_content": "Canine research scientists are encouraged to take a leadership role in the ethical treatment of companion animals. Evidence illustrates there is no place for shock, prong, choke, or other aversive variables in companion animal research. The rationale against the use of shock and positive punishment is well established in scientific literature. Dr. Karen Weigle (2019), clinical psychologist, affiliated with the University of New Hampshire spoke out on shock saying, “This has gone on for this long because this is a population who cannot adequately speak for themselves.” Who will speak for the dogs? If not us, who? If not now, when? Professional positions opposing the use of aversives in dog training are based on both a sophisticated academic grasp of the neurochemical and behavioral mechanisms at play, and a desire to promote animal welfare in a civilized world (Michaels, 2015d). The hallmarks of leadership in science highlight the detrimental effects that painful devices and practices have on our companion animals. The advent of the Pet Professional Guild (PPG) gives medical professionals, research scientists, and other pet professionals a clear option for affiliation with an international, science-oriented organization. PPG members subscribe to No Shock, No Pain, No Choke, No Fear, No Pain and No Physical Force in dog training. It is understood that science cannot take a stand—but scientists can.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "516d60d7-3a9a-4b5c-bc60-9f939e4262c9", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "Scientists can easily design research studies that do no harm, thus supporting the instrumental and necessary steps leading to a ban on shock devices used with pet dogs. A survey using the extensive Canine Behavioral Assessment and Research Questionnaire (C-BARQ) database (Serpell, 2020), or a separately designed survey, exploring the co-relational relationship between shock training and bites would be of practical value to scientists, animal welfare advocates, trainers, and the public. A survey study based upon a collection of statistics from veterinarians on the injuries and deaths from choke and prong collars would inform and illustrate the true extent of the problem using these devices.\n\nScientific presentations have real world impact on audiences, and moreover, on our companion animals. Pet professionals from an array of dog-related fields often incorporate these scientific interpretations into their practices and hold them up as a gold standard. New evidence-based practices are the driving force in social commitment to animal welfare policy legislation and the subsequent enforcement of sanctions prohibiting intentional harm to dogs. Scientists who adopt a clear and ethical stand on\n\ndog handling and training can help drive social change and shape laws governing animal welfare legislation. Governmental representatives will look closely at what scientists have to say about shock, prong, choke, and dominance training practices. The adaptation of ethics driven science into law puts to rest the unwarranted justification of the use of painful devices and training methods.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "74d94bba-2f84-40b8-aa79-b64034cb85c5", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Celebrity impact on cultural change is also a powerful and a much- needed force for good. The dog-loving celebrity community can be leading spokespersons for Do No Harm training methods. Celebrities can affect the well-being of dogs across the globe with just a few, clear, and well-spoken words about dog training methods. Employing force-free dog trainers and encouraging the production of truly dog-friendly television shows and films will further endear fans to stars and their pets.\n\nTogether a commitment to strengthening animal welfare laws and regulations based upon dog-friendly ethics will bring about a transformation —a sea change in dog training that is long overdue. Increasing penalties for dog abuse and neglect, and developing regulation in the field of dog training ensures trainer competency and a do no harm ethic for dog-related activities. This will accomplish our collective goal. It is incumbent upon each of us to take a clear and unwavering stand on these issues by adopting a force-free ideology concerning the care and welfare of our dogs.\n\neeting your dogs’ Biological Needs is the foundational base for a happy and healthy life. Here are the biological needs that should be met, per The Hierarchy of Dog Needs®\n\nProper nutrition Fresh water Sufficient exercise Sufficient air Sufficient sleep Indoor shelter Safety Temperature control Gentle grooming Gentle veterinary care", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "f2952d22-eecd-47cd-834f-9c4abd54996f", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "A dog’s focus on food springs from the need for proper nutrition, which is a basic essential need along with air and water. Dogs are completely dependent upon us to provide a sufficient amount of high-quality, biologically appropriate food. They cannot go to the grocery store or open the refrigerator to retrieve what their body is craving! Taking a look at the world from a dog’s perspective, allows us to better appreciate our responsibility to provide biologically appropriate nutritious food. Improper diet and poor-quality food may cause behavioral problems and medical issues in dogs. Poor quality food invites allergies and illness. Many medical and behavioral problems are directly affected by diet, so keeping a beloved dog physically and temperamentally fit by meeting their nutritional needs is essential. You want your dog to thrive, so provide high-quality dog food.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "7a3290d1-6b8a-4073-8ed1-753cc73dda42", "word_count": 138, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 179 } }, { "page_content": "While experts disagree about nutrition, most will agree that any diet you choose must be nutritionally balanced. Sadly, “. . . much of the research supporting clinical pet diets does not undergo peer review and is never published in full journal form. Whereas obtaining patent rights to protect intellectual property is understandable, the field as a whole will benefit only if data are published” (Deng & Swanson, 2015, p. 825). Veterinary nutritionists do agree that a poor diet is the biggest obstacle to achieving overall canine health. It is a daunting task to stay up to date on the latest nutritional theories, brands, and recalls. It is important to take nutritional recommendations from reliable sources whose opinions are not influenced by commercial interest as much as possible. If your dog is healthy there are many choices in biologically appropriate diets. However, if there is illness or disease you will want to follow the recommendations of your trusted veterinarian. You will want to\n\nSelect healthy ingredients. Avoid questionable additives. Understand the effects of dog food processing when choosing meal type such as kibble, freeze-dried, dehydrated, air-dried, raw, or home- cooked. Proactively research manufacturer reliability.\n\nFeeding a Biologically Appropriate, Nutritionally Balanced Diet", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "fb72b974-696f-492f-aa6f-02b1add8f50c", "word_count": 200, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 260 } }, { "page_content": "Feeding a truly nutritionally balanced diet requires selecting quality sources so that all essential vitamin, mineral, amino acid, macro and micronutrient requirements are met. A balanced diet requires a variety of healthy meats and veggies. Most vegetables and some fruits can and should be a part of your dog’s diet. For many pet parents, that means finding a few reliable brands and rotating between whole protein sources such as chicken, beef, and salmon, within and between brands. Transition between brands or protein sources over the course of a week or two, gradually adding the new food to the old. Continuously feeding the same food may create allergies and nutritional deficiencies.\n\nDr. Karen Becker, a leading integrative veterinarian specializing in nutrition recommends a carefully planned biologically appropriate diet for you dogs. She tells us,\n\nAnd while nutritionally balanced, fresh whole food isn’t the cure for every disease that afflicts cats and dogs, it is the very best foundation upon which to build a protocol that can return a sick animal to good health. Simply put, when your pet’s organs must work overtime to digest and absorb species-inappropriate nutrients from a processed diet, it inhibits the body’s capacity to achieve and maintain a state of homeostasis. (Becker, 1997–2020)\n\nBoth canned foods and kibble undergo extreme processing to make them shelf stable. Commercial pet food processing can impact digestibility, the availability of nutrients, and safety (Buff et al., 2014).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "cd60aa65-89b3-4295-9291-238470f9087f", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Many properties of commercially prepared dog food are not sufficiently regulated. We suggest that you\n\nRead the ingredients on labels and choose a food with a specifically named protein source as the first ingredient. Avoid the vague term “meat,” by-products, corn syrup, and sugar. Meat meal is generally rendered meat made of by-products and that is why you will not see meat meals in human foods. Avoid meat meals when there are higher quality alternatives. Avoid artificial flavors, colors, and preservatives, especially BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin that may be linked to carcinogens. Artificial\n\npreservatives may be toxic to your dogs: Some artificial preservatives are also used as pesticides.\n\nConsider the following questions when choosing a brand of dog food\n\nSources. Where do the ingredients come from? Recalls. What is the manufacturer’s safety record? Marketing and customer service. Is the company transparent about its products and responsive to inquiries?", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "9bfdaeda-dc98-41be-a9a3-f73ab46f6843", "word_count": 148, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 192 } }, { "page_content": "Choose human-grade ingredients that are subject to inspections to meet the strict criterion to be labeled human-grade if within your means. Otherwise, you may be feeding your dog meat ingredients that can contain pathogen-laden diseased or medication-laden euthanized animals. Home- cooked meals can also be great for your dog! If you choose to home-cook, start with trustworthy recipes or prepare a healthy meal for yourself and cook a little extra for your dog: Take care to avoid human foods on the dog toxicity list. Find nutritionally balanced recipes using human-grade ingredients. Reliable sources such as BalanceIT® (2004–20), founded by board certified veterinary nutritionist Sean Delaney, DVM, DACVN, who co-authored a leading textbook on veterinary clinical nutrition, formulates every recipe online for the specific needs of each pet.\n\nProtein should come mainly from animal versus plant sources. Choose a protein-rich, not carbohydrate-rich diet. Canines have few dietary requirements for carbohydrates; however, some commercial dog foods may contain up to 90% grains because grains are inexpensive and increase calories. Grain-free processed kibble is also too often overloaded with calories and carbohydrates. Dr. Doug Knueven, DVM, holistic nutritional expert and sought-after veterinary conference speaker, suggests that you choose a food with a small percentage of healthy whole grains that provide complex carbohydrates. High-protein diets are generally linked to high performance, whereas high simple carbohydrate diets are linked to obesity in dogs (Knueven, 2008).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 68, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "f3fc4b8d-b7f9-40d4-a290-3b2039385509", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "There are some excellent dehydrated, air-dried, and freeze-dried foods as well. However, if you choose to feed kibble, try to feed a kibble that contains as many organic ingredients as possible. Purchase a 2-week supply of kibble and keep it refrigerated. Oxidation may degrade the essential nutrients that have been supplemented. Do not pour the food out of the bag into another container. Add water or a scoop of wet food to the kibble: Kibble does not provide enough water during a meal. Chewing kibble does not clean the teeth.\n\nThere is a controversial and sometimes contentious debate about feeding a raw diet, however, the evidence against it is inconclusive. Some veterinary organizations, such as the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) have taken positions against feeding raw food for what they believe to be public safety issues. They say,\n\nThe AVMA discourages the feeding to cats and dogs of any animal source protein that has not first been subjected to a process to eliminate pathogens because of the risk of illness to cats and dogs as well as humans. Cooking or pasteurization through the application of heat until the protein reaches an internal temperature adequate to destroy pathogenic organisms has been the traditional method used to eliminate pathogens in animal source protein, although the AVMA recognizes source protein, although the AVMA recognizes that newer technologies and other methods such as irradiation are constantly being developed and implemented. (AVMA, 2019, September 5, para. 1).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "d5eff68f-cf73-40cf-b787-5edeb30a5e5e", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "If you choose to feed raw, ensure that your dog is eating a nutritionally balanced diet. If you are creating meal plans, include raw meat, organ meat, shredded fruits, vegetables, ground and raw meaty bones, and the appropriate supplements. Raw meaty bones are typically half meat with bone that is consumed, such as chicken necks, backs and legs; turkey necks; pork and lamb necks and breasts, and canned boney fish such as sardines, salmon, and mackerel. Canned fish is pre-cooked. Conveniently frozen raw meals of meat, bone, and vegetables are now widely available. Take precautions with food handling hygiene as you do with any raw meat to prevent possible bacterial or parasitic contamination of hands, surfaces, and utensils. Special precautions must be taken for immune-suppressed individuals who are particularly susceptible to pathogens.\n\nA popular public service resource for comparing both wet and dry brands team of professionals dedicated to canine wellness includes a veterinarian. Dog Food Advisor reviews hundreds of dog food brand products from A–Z, interprets nutritional content, evaluates additives, and publishes recall notices. Their reputation for fairness has made them a leader in helping pet parents and business owners. Another source in the form of an annual review for pet parents is The Whole Dog Journal, which rates dry and wet food brands.\n\nThe Whole Dog Journal in “Diets, Dogs, and DCM”, Straus and Kerns (2019) analyzed data released by the FDA, in an attempt to determine if there is a link between reported cases of dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) and the affected dogs’ diets. They report, “No one knows for sure what might explain a link between certain types of diets and DCM in some dogs” (2019, October 22, para. 6). The article provides safety precautions,", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "a53a28f4-37cd-41df-aa5d-69330c738c16", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "recommendations, and references to the updates, and reports of medical interest. Legumes, namely peas are currently suspected.\n\nObesity is the most common nutritional disorder in dogs. An excess of 15% over the ideal bodyweight is considered obese and is most often caused by either excessive caloric intake or inadequate exercise, or a combination of the two. Studies indicate that 18 to 44% of dogs are either overweight or obese. Risk factors for obesity include: Dietary practices, female gender, neutering, age, and breed, namely, Labrador Retrievers, Cairn Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, Dachshunds, Shetland Sheep Dogs, Basset Hounds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Beagles. The socio-economic and dietary habits of the pet parent are factors in dog obesity as well (Collard et al., 2006). A scientific meta-analysis review of causes of obesity in dogs says that we should not use body weight alone to evaluate a dog’s nutritional needs when planning meals. Your dog’s lifestyle, neuter status, activity level, age, medical condition, and health history must be considered as well (Birmingham et al., 2014).\n\nAlthough truly fresh water is often overlooked for pets, water unfit for you to drink is also most very likely harmful for your dog. Pet parents often mistakenly take the quality of the tap water they give their pets for granted. If you drink spring, distilled, filtered, or bottled water, consider providing quality water as a must for your pet, hand-in-glove with a nutritious diet.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "daa31d3a-c469-400e-b49b-52911b5eb466", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Fresh water is vital for all known forms of life. Unless you are feeding a wet or raw diet, drinking water is most likely your dog’s only source of hydration for metabolic processes. Water regulates temperature, carries nutrients and oxygen to all cells, lessens the burden on the kidneys and liver by flushing out urine and feces and other toxins, aids in digestion, and dissolves minerals and other nutrients so they are accessible to the body. Water also lubricates joints, moistens tissues such as those in the mouth, eyes, and nose, helps prevent constipation, and protects the body’s organs and tissues (Mayo Clinic, 2020a).\n\nA National Resource Defense Council (2003) study cites an article, “What’s on Tap,” revealing that the tap water of scores of United States cities is compromised. Pollution, old pre-World War I pipes, and outdated\n\ntreatment facilities and processing put dogs at risk from contaminants that breed bacteria and fail to remove toxins such as pesticides, industrial chemicals, and arsenic which can be found in tap water. Diarrhea is often linked to food choice, yet the role that contaminated water may play in diarrhea and cancer is often overlooked. In a recent meta-analysis (Ercumen et al., 2014), aging water distribution systems in the United States and other developed countries were found to allow pathogens that cause diarrhea. Most cities are not in violation of the national standards, yet the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) standards are weak. For example, the EPA allows 10pps of arsenic although scientists concur there is no safe level of arsenic in drinking water.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "26c9e094-6ada-49e9-8524-6d7ab982b0a1", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "Note: Water should not be rationed for housetraining. Your dog can perish within a few days without water.\n\nThe well documented benefits of exercise for people also apply to your dog. There is irrefutable evidence that regular physical activity is vital to help prevent several chronic diseases such as: cardiovascular disease, diabetes,\n\ncancer hypertension, obesity, depression, osteoporosis, and premature death (Brendin et al., 2006). In Decoding Your Dog: “All Dogs Need a Job,” Dr. Mary Klinck, DVM, tells us that a dog’s need for exercise is dependent on life stage, breed, and personality; however, individuals within each breed can vary significantly (Klinck, 2014).\n\nExercise needs are unique to each dog. Have an integrative force-free veterinarian complete a wellness check for your dog before beginning an exercise regimen. Too much, too little, or the wrong type of exercise and mental stimulation can lead to medical and behavior problems (Marcellin- Little et al., 2005). Sadly, there has been very little research about the optimal frequency, intensity, and duration of exercise for dogs. However, if your dog is overweight, monitor your dog carefully, slowly increasing frequency, intensity, and duration of exercise because the heart rate in overweight dogs during exercise is higher (Kuruvillaa, 2003).\n\nProvide frequent and regular physical and mental exercise appropriate for your dog’s medical condition, age, and breed. Proper exercise not only keeps your dog fit, but it also decreases stress. It is up to us humans to provide sufficient exercise that is fun, while at the same time keeps our dogs safe. Remember our dogs play by their own rules and they simply cannot be trusted to make good decisions, by our standards, on any regular basis!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "2cadd75f-ac62-4577-a61c-3fc642d0f4da", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Scientists have studied the euphoria known as runners high that is experienced during and after long-distance running and strenuous exercise. Is it any wonder our dogs love to run? The opioid theory is believed to be involved in mood enhancement during and after exercise. The increase in the body’s naturally produced opioid endorphins released during exercise has a positive effect on depression and anxiety as well (Boecker et al., 2008). In a recent study, a lack of sufficient daily exercise was associated with canine anxiety. Dogs who exercised less suffered more noise sensitivity and more separation anxiety distress. More exercise may provide a solution for anxious dogs (Tiira & Lohi, 2015).\n\nPuppies have special exercise needs. Frequent self-regulated free-play sessions are encouraged for puppies. Arranging casual play dates with dogs who “play nice” are great for exercise and wonderful socialization for your puppy. Protect your puppy by preventing jumping and falling down. More than 50% of fractures occur in animals less than one year of age (Animal Medical Center of Southern California, 2016). Jumping off of beds, couches, and people’s laps, are major causes of spinal and other bone fractures in puppies. Avoid running, long hikes, and long walks until your dog is between 10 and 18 months old, dependent upon size and breed. Here’s why:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "f7019519-9df2-4382-9c9d-8efcdad62fba", "word_count": 216, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 280 } }, { "page_content": "The bone growth plates are soft cartilage areas that sit at the end of long bones (limbs and pelvis) in puppies and adolescent dogs who are still growing. Bone plates are a weak link, soft and vulnerable to injury. Sex hormone changes in puberty cause the growth plates to close and the plates then calcify and become a stable inflexible part of the bone. Puberty is a landmark for both growth plate closure and for slowly increasing exercise. In puppies the closure is, on average, completed by approximately 10 months of age in large dog breeds, a few months earlier in small dog breeds, and a few months later in giant dog breeds—up to 18 months of age (Provet Healthcare Information, 2013; Marcellin-Little et al., 2005). Specific cautionary measures and additional breed-specific orthopedic concerns should be discussed with your trusted force-free veterinarian.\n\nProviding daily runs or alternate opportunities to run and play is vital to your dog’s physical health and emotional well-being. Most healthy dogs love to run! Make sure your dog is properly conditioned before participating in strenuous or athletic activities. Always prepare the muscles to reduce the risk of injury with a warm-up by starting with slow walking and then increasing intensity to jogging gradually over 5–10 minutes. Be certain your dog is comfortable with the level of intensity before increasing duration, distance, or intensity. Consider enrolling your healthy adult dog in an aerobic dog sport class or joining a local group for swimming, agility training, fly-ball, dog dancing, hoops, lure-coursing, or terrain-intensive scent work.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "44140df8-fa93-450e-93d4-6c2002acc6fe", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Your dog, more than likely, will not be cautious about excessive exercise so it is up to you to monitor activities carefully. Excessive frequency,\n\nintensity, or duration of exercise can have a negative impact causing injury or making an existing condition even worse. Be sure to provide rest breaks, and build endurance slowly, to avoid cardiovascular fatigue. Fatigue can result in injuries. Be on the lookout for limping, excessive panting, or a reluctance to exercise. Exercise should be joyful. Involving other dogs makes physical activity even more stimulating.\n\nGenerally speaking, exercise gear may be a topic of heated discussion but not in the force-free training community. Force-free dog trainers recommend a back or front-clip harness for walking and running in order to distribute the pressure across the dog’s chest and body, rather than around the neck and throat structures. If safe for you, your dog, and others, let your dog run naked just with a collar and identification tags.\n\nThe benefits gained from safely practiced aerobic and non-aerobic exercise are enriching for both you and your dog. Look for unique trails, parks, beach areas, and neighborhoods to explore. If you prefer to watch rather than run, arrange for a play date with another friendly dog, or visit a safe leash-free dog park if your dog is a well-mannered social butterfly. (See Chapter 9, Dog Parks and Dog Play.)\n\nFor the most part, just like humans, senior dogs continue their desire for activity and exercise, but at a slower pace. Arthritis may negatively impact your dog’s ability, comfort, and desire to exercise. Understanding both the physical and the behavioral factors involved in our aging dogs provides the best exercise guidance.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "520d5eef-5c65-46db-8a2a-c6c275341fe1", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Find ways to include your aging dog in your daily activities—being left home alone often quickens the decline of your senior dog’s mental and physical condition. Pay attention to your dog’s comfort limit with distance and other endurance factors on walks. A dog stroller or wagon will allow your dog to continue to be part of family activities. Walk for a short distance and then let your aging dog enjoy a ride in the stroller or wagon even if you have a multi-dog household, keeping everyone together if possible. “Sniffari” walks, mainly to sniff, are highly enjoyable for most aging dogs. Sniffing is the window to the world where they can experience novelty.\n\nFor dogs who have always loved riding in the car, keep riding! If your dog is too large for you to lift into the car, make a small investment in stairs\n\nor a ramp. These aides may be the most practical way of including your dog on these visually enriching and olfactory stimulating adventures.\n\nScent tracking and interactive toys can be a wonderful source of mental enrichment when physical activity is limited. Therapeutic supervised swimming using a life jacket, socializing with appropriate playmates on the same activity level, or even playing with a respectful puppy whose playstyle is monitored, may help keep your aging dog stimulated.\n\nFor more guidance about senior dog exercise, Dr. Karen Overall (2013, pp. 690–697) has a brilliant section, i.e., “Protocol for Understanding and Helping Geriatric Animals”, in her Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "b1804ad8-53f5-4b7d-8214-69940bb01e62", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "If you cannot exercise your dog, a training-savvy and trustworthy friend or vetted force-free dog walker can help. Do not let anyone else use a choke, slip, prong, or shock collar on your dog. These collars have been shown to cause injuries to dogs. Make it clear to your dog walker that your dog is to be walked on their harness. (See Chapter 16, Leash-walking.)\n\nIf your dog needs more exercise than you can provide or if you have limited space, when safe for your dog’s age, medical condition, and morphological structure, consider exercising with a lure/chase toy. Some physically challenged pet parents who are unable to exercise their dog outside of the home find a lure-chase toy a convenient way to make sure their dog runs each day. This toy is also recommended for pet parents who do not have enough time to exercise their dog on any given day. The chase- lure toy is especially beneficial for prey-driven, high-activity level dogs or powerful breeds that love and need to run. It works great for small breeds as well and is a lot of fun for the handler.\n\nThere are some important caveats regarding lure-chase toys.\n\nThe lure should be kept near the ground, not lifted into the air. Jumping and twisting of the spinal column may cause injury.\n\nOnce your dog catches the lure, always trade-up, by offering a high value treat tossed away from the lure, giving you a chance to retrieve it safely. Better yet, teach “Drop It.” Otherwise, dogs may resource guard the lure, as if it were a prey item they’ve just caught. Allow your dog to catch the lure on occasion or the lure-chase toy game causes undesirable frustration. Exercise should be fun!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "682a8f56-cb25-45cc-b4f8-f7a43f1f342c", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Another at home exercise technique for adult dogs without medical conditions, arthritis, or a predisposition to back injuries, and who are natural retrievers is upstairs fetch. If you have a carpeted staircase in your home and a healthy dog, upstairs fetch is like having a stair-stepper exercise machine for your dog. Toss treats, one at a time up the stairs. Do not toss anything down the stairs as this could result in injuries to dogs tripping and falling down the stairs.\n\nDigging is another great natural exercise for your dog that does not require daily time or physical effort from pet parents. Get a sand box or designate a special spot in the yard reserved for a dog zone digging pit where you regularly bury goodies.\n\nA puppy’s first breath is a critical sign of life outside of the womb. Air is a metabolic requirement for survival, and it is the need that must be met first. Abraham Maslow’s original work, A Theory of Human Motivation (1943, The Basic Needs section, para. 16.) delineates the basic physiological needs to maintain the body’s homeostasis. One of the most basic of these needs is the need for oxygen. Oxygen travels through the lungs and is then transferred to red blood cells that carry the oxygen to all of the organs in the body that require oxygen to function.\n\nIf your dog is having breathing problems, see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Breathing difficulties can quickly become life threatening. Air is a deficiency need (Maslow, 1943) and if dogs are unable to satisfy their need for air, at a minimum they are uncomfortable and at the extreme, they are suffering and often medically endangered. The body cannot function properly with inadequate oxygen and will ultimately fail.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 77, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "42c7914f-e661-4e1d-88f1-5a78dc98e660", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs are not morphologically built for collars around the neck. Choke and prong collars when used correctly, choke. The use of choke and prong collars exacerbate breathing problems, particularly in our brachycephalic breeds, and may cause medical injury to the trachea, which is essential to breathing.\n\ntypically made of metal, chain, or rope euphemistically called a slip lead. Rope is the device of choice used for hanging, therein, the purpose of the slip lead and a noose are much the same i.e., to choke. The metal spikes on prong collars are, additionally, often sharpened to inflict more pain and pressure, resulting in injury. The use of choke and prong collars exerting enormous pressure in pounds per square inch on in brachycephalic breeds, and may cause medical injury to the trachea, which is essential to breathing. According to Eileen Anderson, in “Why Prong Collars Hurt”, “The pressure on the prong collar is concentrated into multiple small areas (like spike heels) instead of being dispersed with blunted prongs of a medium size (you can obtain prongs that are smaller and sharper), the pressure is approximately 155 times that caused by a flat collar” (Anderson, 2017, para. 32).\n\nthe spikes, exacerbate breathing problems—particularly", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "779f7ff6-1010-46a3-8c1c-4939379143d8", "word_count": 200, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 260 } }, { "page_content": "So why do I avoid the choke chain . . . there are many medical and safety reasons. Not surprisingly, strong yanking on the neck with a chain can cause health issues. If the force from a dog pulling on a flat collar raises intraocular pressure [pressure inside the eyes], imagine how high that pressure must rise when you actually yank the dog with a thin chain! Even if your dog has no eye issues, the choke chain is notorious at exacerbating airway issues. For instance, it can worsen coughing in dogs prone to collapsing trachea (weak trachea that flatten more than they should) and affect the ability of dogs with small tracheas, such as pugs and bulldogs, to breathe. (Yin, 2012a, Choke Chain section, para. 5).\n\nThis report from a senior veterinary clinician appears in the New York Post, “Pet owners might use choke or prong collars to help train a dog that pulls on the leash, but accidents with these devices can cause serious injury,\n\nincluding permanent neurological problems—or even death,” said Dr. David Bessler, senior emergency clinician at Blue Pearl Veterinary Partners in Manhattan. “The whole point of a choke collar is that it applies force 360 degrees,” he explains. If a dog surprises an owner and takes off running, the collar snaps the pet back, causing whiplash, or choking. Bessler recalls a fatal case where an owner stepped on a leash as the dog started to run: “It caused an upper-airway obstruction and that dog drowned in its own fluid” (Bessler (n.d.) cited in Sala, (2014). Punitive training with a choke collar, such as strangulation by holding a dog off the ground by a choke collar (a not uncommon practice), can cause severe brain damage (Dickomeit et al., 2013).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "2de8488b-2dac-43de-ae9c-0fab27a513c9", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Short noses and wide set eyes might make dogs look cute and childlike, but these features are often associated with breathing difficulty and may come at a very high price to our dogs: Make no mistake, BOAS is a painful condition in dogs. The risk increases as the morphology becomes more and more exaggerated.\n\nBrachycephalic airway syndrome (BOAS) may affect puppies as young as three months of age (Meola, 2013). Veterinarians and kennel clubs must discuss the problem openly with colleagues and pet parents. Due to the serious medical and welfare implications and the increasing popularity of the brachycephalic breeds, efforts to separate fashion from health are needed. Risk factors should be used to guide breeding decisions. In a study on the impact of facial conformity on canine heath, Packer et al., (2015) warns, “As such, breeders and buyers should be aware of these risks when selecting a dog and breeding organizations should actively discourage exaggerations of this high-risk conformation in breed standards and the show ring.” A fundamental rethink in brachycephalic breeding is necessary to save the breeds.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "f6923f4f-e8ee-489b-9004-205712cfdfa6", "word_count": 179, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 232 } }, { "page_content": "Breathing disorders increase as muzzle length shortens. Breed-related air obstruction disorders are commonly associated with some of the extreme conformation standards established by breed and kennel clubs. Breeds such as the Pug, English Bulldog, Boston Terrier, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, French Bulldog, Boxer, Pekingese, Shih Tzu, Japanese Chin, Shar-Pei, Lhasa Apso, and short-nosed crossbreeds are at great risk of developing BOAS because the soft tissue is crammed within the skull (Burn et al., 2012) often resulting in chronic and debilitating respiratory dysfunction. Thicker necks and obesity are additional exacerbating factors in brachycephalic dogs (Burn et al., 2015).\n\nPet parents too often dismiss labored chronic breathing difficulties and respiratory noise as normal despite their dogs’ obvious difficulty breathing, overheating, gagging, and choking while on short walks. Dogs may physically collapse and die due to lack of oxygen. Although these pet dogs often show severe clinical signs of BOAS, many pet parents do not recognize that their dog has a breathing problem. Pet parents may believe that these breathing abnormalities are normal signs of aging. Too often these dogs have acute attacks or lose consciousness before a pet parent recognizes breathing is a problem and seek medical help. In a recent study (Liu et al., 2015), 60% of French Bulldog pet parents failed to recognize BOAS in their dogs. Indeed, research finds that 58% of surveyed pet parents of brachycephalic breeds may be suffering because pet parents believe that breathing difficulties, noisy and labored breathing, gagging and choking are “normal” for that breed (Burn et al., 2012b). Some pet parents describe the medical symptoms of respiratory dysfunction as “cute.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 50, "id": "5efd6ddb-48ab-452d-ab3f-7fbe466ce567", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "According to Dr. Gerhard Oechtering (2010), faculty of veterinary medicine at the University of Leipzig, Germany, “Malformations and collapsibility of the upper airways are much more complex than previously thought.” A dog’s nose to be essential for effective thought thermoregulation. Stenotic nares are pinched or narrow nostrils that make it difficult to breathe and cause snorting and snoring. Laryngeal collapse may occur as a result of stenotic nares and tracheal narrowing and lead to death. Jemima Harrison, producer of the 2008 BBC Documentary, Pedigree Dogs Exposed, highlights the serious nature of some of the health and welfare problems in purebred dogs. Harrison sheds light on the reality of\n\nthe suffering of many brachycephalic breeds. She reports, “Many flat-faced dogs try to sleep sitting or even standing up because their airways block when they drop their heads. It means that some brachycephalic dogs are chronically sleep-deprived” (Harrison, 2016, para. 1). The Royal Veterinary College at the University of London (O’Neil et al., 2015), reports, “These dogs may not be able to enjoy the simple pleasures in a dog’s life such as exercise, play, food and sleep.”\n\nDo your best to protect your dog from both indoor and outdoor air pollution when reasonably plausible, just as you would for yourself. Exposure to air pollution has been shown to produce cognitive deficits and brain lesions in dogs as shown by a magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) study published in the Journal of Brain and Cognition. The study examined the effect of pollution on brain abnormalities in dogs and children (Barragan-Mejia et al., 2008). Use air purifiers in your home. Avoid smoke-filled rooms and walking your dog when the Air Quality Index (n.d.) is high for humans.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 51, "id": "95f12346-c211-44a2-a5c4-2fb6bc1a2460", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Sufficient sleep is a fundamental biological need for our dogs. Sleep, along with food, water, and oxygen is essential to survival. Sleep is a critical requirement for optimal health and emotional well-being. Puppies and dogs need to get the quality sleep and the rest their bodies crave. Your dog’s species-specific need for sleep is both similar and different from what humans need. Although sufficient sleep is not discussed frequently, veterinarians, breeders, pet parents, trainers, shelter workers and foster parents are responsible for seeing that the dogs in their care have adequate sleep opportunities. Sleep needs vary with age, health, lifestyle, and among individuals. Sleep strengthens the immune, skeletal, and muscular systems. Dogs suffer physically and psychologically and cannot thrive without sufficient sleep.\n\nNewborn humans require on average twice as much sleep as adults. Similarly, puppies need lots of extra sleep to grow, heal wounds and store energy to develop and function properly. Many rescue dogs come from very stressful environments, sometimes unavoidably so, with little opportunity for true relaxation. They may be at critical risk for exhaustion and thus, have special sleep needs. To read more about sufficient sleep, see Diane Garrod’s book, Stress Release For Dogs: The Canine Emotional Detox (Garrod, 2021).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 52, "id": "241c10e2-a6cb-4d4b-924c-dfd01f10e4ff", "word_count": 203, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 263 } }, { "page_content": "Sleep deprivation has been found to increase aggressiveness and decrease effective social interactions (Kahn et al., 2006). Sleep deprivation is associated with a compromised immune system, diabetes, weight gain, obesity, depression, hormonal imbalances, and can more than double the risk of cardiovascular disease (Brown et al., 2012). According to Bentivogliio & Grassi-Zucconi (1997, pp. 570–576), “Pioneering canine experimental studies going as far back as 1894 show that sleep is a vital function, and that the lack of sleep causes brain damage and eventually death. The complete absence of sleep was found to be fatal for puppies in a few days. Adult dogs died after 9–17 days without sleep.”\n\nSleep deprivation shortens attention span, increases anxiety, impairs memory, and has a negative effect on mood. The relationship between sleep deprivation and anxiety is well documented in clinical research (Pires & Anderson, 2012). Anxiety is one of the most insidious emotional consequences of both dream sleep (REM) deprivation and deep-sleep deprivation. Generalized anxiety disorder and phobias are associated with sleep deprivation, so anxiety may also cause sleep deprivation.\n\nThere may be a genetically hard-wired reason for your dog’s rumbling about during the night. Periodically scanning the environment may be an innate, residually adaptive behavior, which served to detect predators and protect survival in the wild.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 82, "chunk_index": 53, "id": "9d32009d-685d-4cb5-927d-0ac419283a19", "word_count": 213, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 276 } }, { "page_content": "The 24-hour internal clock drives all animals. Circadian rhythms are biologically built-in, even in nocturnal animals (Edgar et al., 2012). One study on dog sleeping habits shows that your dog’s rest occurs mostly at night, but their activity increases approximately 2 hours before dawn, and they become most active at dawn, on average. Dogs often nap around the noon hour and have slower activity during the afternoon hours (Tobler & Sigg, 1985). Approximately 44% of your dog’s time is spent in alert wakefulness and 21% in the drowsy state. Adult dogs sleep approximately one-third to one-half of a 24-hour-cycle, with an average internal bedtime of 9 pm and rising time of 4 am, according to a classic dog sleep study (Lucas, et al., 1977). Dr. Alexandra Horowitz (2009) also suggests dogs may have a burst of energy in the evening because of their species-specific sleep-wake patterns.\n\nAs stated above, sleep-wake patterns are species-specific. Humans most commonly sleep for several hours in a single session whereas dogs do not. A 1993 study of sleep-wake activity in dogs showed that the typical pattern of sleeping and waking in dogs is very different than that in people, contrary to popular belief (Adams & Johnson, 1993). Within an 8-hour period, the 24 dogs in the study had 23 sleep-wake cycles on average, of 21 minutes each: they would sleep for 16 minutes and then spontaneously awaken for 5 minutes! Unlike humans, these dogs appeared to become fully conscious during those 5 minutes of wakefulness. When two or more dogs slept together, they each had their own sleep-wake cycling, unaffected by", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 54, "id": "af45315f-7c2d-4e55-a7f1-4b8538b50595", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "the other dogs cycling. Think of your dog needing power naps throughout the day. Power naps promote performance and learning, help to restore balance to immune and neuroendocrine systems, and are ideal for the genetically hard-wired canine sleep-wake cycle.\n\nCarefully choose the placement of your dog’s bed. Wolves have dens, humans have bedrooms, and so your dog ought to have some sanctuary as well. For daytime power naps, your dog may prefer an open-door crate in a corner of a bedroom or other room, a cloth covered open crate, or an orthopedic bed set apart from the line of traffic in your home. Puppies require more sleep than adult dogs. Keeping puppies in the center of the living room, with human activity continually disturbing their sleep, fosters stress. When setting up containment areas for newborn puppies, responsible breeders should keep each puppy’s sleep needs in mind, balancing Biological Needs with Social Needs. Senior dogs often require more sanctuary space as a safety net apart from other animals in the home to protect their aging bodies and allow for additional sleep needs.\n\nPeople pay close attention to the type of spinal and back support our own mattresses provide and understand how important proper sleep support is for our own well-being, however, pet parents often make the mistake of choosing the cutest or cushiest beds for their dogs. All dogs, particularly dogs with long spinal columns such as Dachshunds and giant breeds, need a bed with sufficient spinal support. Why not give your dog the best of both worlds—orthopedic support and cute blankets and pillows if you wish. If the only soft bed for your dog does not allow your dog to stretch fully, a remodel of the dog zone is in order to provide a truly optimal sleep environment for your best friend.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 84, "chunk_index": 55, "id": "69cd356e-5ec1-4a87-96e8-00f546864874", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Separate, but close sleeping quarters may help both canines and humans sleep better at night. As a social and domesticated species, emotionally healthy dogs generally want and need to be in close proximity to us. However, just as humans need a quiet environment for restful rejuvenation, so do our dogs. Consider a change in sleeping locations or quarters if your need for sleep is out of sync with your dog’s sleep-wake cycles. When choosing restful sleeping quarters, the National Sleep Foundation (2016) reminds us to factor in proper temperature control, sound, and light.\n\nApproximately 23% of your dog’s time is spent in deep-sleep, and 12% in the dream state associated with rapid eye movement (REM) (Lucas et al., 1977). During REM sleep, your dog’s eyes may roll, they may whimper, shake, whine, growl, and even bark on occasion. They often appear to be chasing something with all four legs pumping the air! Fascinatingly, because a large portion of your dog’s brain is devoted to processing scent, your dog may be dreaming in the scent sensory mode as well! “Those who see smells must remember in smells, too: When we imagine dog’s dreaming and daydreaming, we should envisage dream images made of scents,” Dr. Horowitz reports in Inside of a Dog (2009, p. 88).\n\nPuppies spend a greater percentage of time in the dream state than adult dogs, very likely processing all of the new information they are absorbing each day. Dreaming may be a bridge between the brain and behavior, having useful functions similar to dream function for humans.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 84, "chunk_index": 56, "id": "d1a6671c-bb3a-4d9d-819a-ebc46d6eb7ed", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs adopt many different sleeping positions, some by choice, some as a security measure—and some because the only bed provided is in the shape of a donut. Feral dogs and wolves curl up into a ball with their paws tucked under their body and tails wrapped over the face to conserve body heat and protect their limbs, face, throat, and vital organs. This is the least vulnerable and least restful position for sleeping, however this position allows for a quick leap to the feet for fight or flight. Some dogs sleep on their stomach, also allowing them to jump to their feet easily in the event of a threat or an interesting activity they would like to follow. We also see the “splotz” tummy position (rear legs outstretched) that is often more restful, but still ready to leap into action. Dogs that sleep outstretched on their side are genuinely able to relax and are most often feeling secure in their surroundings. Some dogs sleep belly-up with their legs in the air. Generally, this indicates a secure and confident dog because it is a vulnerable position that exposes vital organs and the throat.\n\nDogs deserve and need to have indoor shelter. Because the natural sleep- wake cycles of dogs differ sharply from sleep-wake cycles in humans, your dog needs a quiet, safe dog zone, and a truly comfortable bed to take refuge from a busy daytime household to truly thrive.\n\nIt is Dangerous for Dogs to be Left Outdoors Unsupervised", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 85, "chunk_index": 57, "id": "0b45373f-af44-4fd6-a007-594597e10c12", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "All pet professionals and pet parents should be aware of the considerable and potentially severe ramifications of keeping a dog in an outdoor pen or running loose, unmonitored in a yard. Leaving a dog outdoors unattended may result in medical, emotional, behavioral, and sometimes even legal problems. Of course, there are great benefits to being outdoors, such as fresh air, sunshine, plenty of sniffing opportunities, and the freedom to eliminate as needed. Consider the safety and feasibility of a doggy door to have the best of both worlds with indoor and supervised outdoor access.\n\nInclement weather, or normal weather for your city, can pose some serious medical risks such as hypothermia or hyperthermia resulting in your dog being unable to control their body’s temperature leading to life- threatening survival issues, suffering, and death. Heatstroke may result from something as unexpected as fence-fighting with a visiting dog in the next yard, or from playing chase through the fence with your neighbor mowing the lawn. Sunburn is painful and can lead to skin cancer. Protect pink noses, bellies, inside of the ears and top of the head, with a non-toxic sunscreen on short-haired/thin-skinned dogs when your dog is outdoors. Neighbors frustrated with your dog’s incessant barking, or children, may accidentally or deliberately release, steal or poison your dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 58, "id": "1cab8c5b-1da4-4fd1-8dcc-75bbab5d70e0", "word_count": 216, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 280 } }, { "page_content": "Although laws vary between state, chaining or tethering a dog with a rope or a line to a stationary object for any longer than it takes a person to complete a temporary task—approximately 10 minutes—is now illegal in the state of California (Animal Legal and Historical Center, 2014). The Humane Society of the United States tells us, “Dogs (especially small dogs) should not be left outside unattended, should never be chained and should always be kept on a leash in public areas” (2016, para. 11).\n\nThe failure to provide sufficient outdoor supervision and indoor shelter may result in the following emotional and behavioral problems:\n\nIsolation and loneliness. Dogs are now rarely considered farm animals (even if they live on a farm) but more often they are thought of as members of our families. Responsible caretakers and pet parents must recognize that dogs have real social needs that only we have the power to help fill—or to thwart. Stereotypies. Many dogs develop difficult to treat idiopathic obsessive behaviors such as tail-chasing, fly-snapping, and self- mutilation due to isolation, boredom, and frustration from being left alone outdoors. Anxiety. Frustration arising from the genetically-driven need or a desire to engage with passing dogs and humans can lead to fence- barrier stress and may devolve into aggression towards people in general and other dogs. Guarding. Natural guarding behaviors may intensify and create or exacerbate existing human and/or dog-dog aggression. Aggression. Teasing from neighborhood children and fence-fighting with other dogs may lead to aggression towards children, adults, and other dogs. Lack of rest. Dogs kept outdoors and working dogs rarely relax sufficiently to achieve healthy, deep, restful sleep.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 59, "id": "5cfbbb46-1cb2-4c03-b36f-ee310b8463a9", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "In “The Great Awful Outdoors” Pat Miller (2001) concurs that keeping your dog outdoors for long periods may lead to a variety of problems. Pet food and water should be kept indoors to avoid attracting wildlife and parasites to your yard. Extended time outdoors results in hazards that can cause psychological and physical damage, even death, and may include:\n\nFly strike. When left outdoors dogs risk bites by flies attracted to defecation. Flies lay eggs on the dog host leading to maggot infestation in the open wounds which are painful and sometimes fatal (RSPCA, 2021). Heartworm. The parasitic worm, Dirofilarial immitis, are spread through the bite of a mosquito putting dogs in danger of heart failure, lung and other organ damage and death.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 87, "chunk_index": 60, "id": "290f90bf-d5e2-4648-b38b-aec80272b3a7", "word_count": 123, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 159 } }, { "page_content": "Tapeworm infection. If a dog eats a flea carrying the tapeworm larva, the larva grows into a tapeworm attaching to the dog’s intestine. Tapeworms may grow to 11 inches in length. Other insects. Bee stings, ticks, poisonous spiders, venomous fire ants, mites, wasps, and hornets, are dangerous and pose immediate injury or long-term parasite problems for your dog. When left outdoor dogs cannot escape these flying and crawling insects looking for a host. In “Venom Reactions and Treatment Options” The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) tells us that with multiple bee stings, systemic poisoning is not uncommon and a dog may need to be hospitalized for multiple days (ASPCA, 2016). Rabies. In the United States, rabies is most commonly found in raccoons, foxes, skunks, and bats. The San Diego Humane Society (2020, para. 1) warns us about raccoons in our yards, “They can carry rabies and baylisascaris worms, both of which are contagious to you, and distemper which can be transmitted to your pets.” Wildlife. Fence your yard securely and protect your dog through supervision. Danger from wildlife such as: snakes, rabid raccoons, skunks, foxes, coyotes, eagles, owls, hawks, bats, and stray cats may lie in wait in your backyard ready to defend themselves if disturbed or to prey upon your dog. Coyotes. Coyotes who disturb dogs are either protecting their pups and their territory or are lured into neighborhoods by well-meaning residents who have been offering food to wildlife. Do not let your dog interact or play with a coyote. Snakes. A potentially serious threat to your dog’s safety outdoors is snakes. How do you keep your dog from being bitten by a venomous snake? Unfortunately, there is no easy answer and there are no guarantees. Neither your family nor", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 61, "id": "408bd082-d976-47fd-afcb-1f31e1cdba81", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "heir territory or are lured into neighborhoods by well-meaning residents who have been offering food to wildlife. Do not let your dog interact or play with a coyote. Snakes. A potentially serious threat to your dog’s safety outdoors is snakes. How do you keep your dog from being bitten by a venomous snake? Unfortunately, there is no easy answer and there are no guarantees. Neither your family nor your dog is safe from venomous snakes. Some dogs have an inborn aversion to snakes while others find them fascinating. Many snake bites occur on the pet parent’s own property. No spray or scatter products have been proven to be effective.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 62, "id": "0cae474e-10ec-4bb7-ac84-52011a8420e0", "word_count": 109, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 141 } }, { "page_content": "Remove food sources, such as rodents, mice, birdseed, crickets, and outdoor pet food. Secure all garbage cans. Remove habitats where snakes may hide, such as: Woodpiles, vegetation, underbrush, and rocks. Seal holes and block entrances under your house or deck. Install rattlesnake safety fencing.\n\nDo not allow your dog to walk or roam in known snake infested areas. The San Diego Natural History Museum herpetology research center (2020) advises, “Common sense is the best defense. Cultivate an attitude of alertness. Never let a dog run loose; always keep a dog leashed no matter how good it normally is.” Keep your dog safe and happy by providing exercise in secured environments such as at a dog park, an agility class, swimming, kayaking, paddle boarding, surfing, dock diving, fly-ball, shopping with you, chasing a lure toy or asking your dog to fetch your tennis serves into the swimming pool!\n\nSnake bites must always be treated as a veterinary emergency immediately. The vaccine is not a substitute for an emergency visit to your trusted integrative veterinarian. Make sure your vet carries antivenin. If you live in or visit areas where rattlesnakes roam, ensure your dog receives the snake venom vaccine which is generally effective for venomous rattlesnakes. Side effects are rare. The vaccine cost is minimal and may dramatically reduce the effects of venom, the cost of treatment, and recovery time in the hospital. It may save your dog’s life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 63, "id": "46c11db5-9aee-4e1d-b33b-c090f1523393", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "Promotional claims, anecdotal reports, and unverifiable statistics abound about the benefits of shock training for your dog for snake-aversion. There is no empirical data to support the efficacy of this training or that demonstrates that snake-aversion training by shock does all, or any part of, what it promises to do. Additionally, shock training may give pet parents a dangerously false sense of security. Many snakebites occur by inadvertently disturbing a snake and no amount of shock training will prevent that.\n\nBehavior experts tell us that shock is easily misapplied and can traumatize animals, and result in severe and permanent side effects, such as\n\nthe fear of the great outdoors, or men, for example. The reaction that snake aversion training promises to teach is flight. However, science tells us that the various responses to fear, pain, and shock include fight, flight, freeze, fawn, and others. The Fight-flight Syndrome is scientifically unpredictable according to Nijenhuis et al., in the Journal of Traumatic Stress (1998). Other unexpected and undesirable responses are equally as likely, such as:\n\nThe dog could successfully go to flight but because of the fear associated with shock, in the dog’s panic, get bitten by the snake. The dog could go to fight and get bitten by the snake. The dog could go to freeze and become paralyzed in fear and get bitten by the snake. The dog could go to fawn in submission and get bitten by the snake. Dogs can lose their flight response reaction over time and get bitten by the snake.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 64, "id": "c8f6d554-1d97-4900-a0af-f3f6c4a56976", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Pet parents who work with a trainer must be sure that the trainer’s methods are safe: Trainers must never use shock collars. No competent dog trainer uses shock for any purpose. Learning should never hurt. Alternative, non-aversive, snake avoidance training methods are springing up because of the need to find an alternate, more effective, and safer method than shock. Popular and effective new courses in real life scenarios of an outdoor hike, teach your dog to alert you immediately upon encountering a snake, similar to basic service dog training. That is—the sound of a rattlesnake is your dog’s cue to come to you.\n\nTo protect your dog, puppy-proof your home, yard, and pool area just as you would for a toddler. Many everyday household items can pose a threat to your dog—even some items specifically meant for pets can be dangerous. However, pet parents should never use any product or substance on their dog that was not specifically created for them.\n\nRead the labels and toxicity warnings on all household cleaning products. Diluted vinegar and water are a typically safe alternative to commercial cleaning agents. Beware of holiday hazards and toxins that may be sniffed or absorbed through the pads of your dog’s feet. Potentially toxic agents should be avoided if at all possible. Never use any potentially toxic product or application, such as essential oils, without first consulting a veterinarian (ASPCA, 2015). If you suspect your pet has been exposed to any poisonous substances, contact your veterinarian, or call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center hotline at (888) 426–4435 immediately (2019).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 90, "chunk_index": 65, "id": "4b95464a-f152-410d-9bf1-233bdb16fc00", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Insecticides, mosquito repellants, and rodenticides are used in many over-the-counter flea and tick remedies. Prescription flea and tick control products may also be toxic.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 91, "chunk_index": 66, "id": "5f4210a3-8090-4fdc-b26c-79d5b73974e8", "word_count": 24, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 31 } }, { "page_content": "Human and veterinary medications such as pain killers including aspirin, acetaminophen, ibuprofen, and naproxen (pets metabolize and eliminate these drugs differently than humans), cold medicines, anti- cancer drugs, anti-depressants, vitamins, diet pills, and many prescription drugs can all be toxic to animals. Keep medicine containers and tubes of ointments and creams away from dogs because they can easily chew through them. Creams and ointments applied to your own skin can cause serious, even life-threatening dangers if your dog licks your skin after a recent application. Read the label, keep your skin covered, and wash your hand thoroughly after use. Poisonous household plants, including azalea, dieffenbachia (dumb cane), lilies, philodendron, poinsettias, and mistletoe. Chocolate is toxic to dog because it contains theobromine and caffeine and the sensitivity to these substances is far greater in dogs than in humans. The darker and more bitter the chocolate the greater the danger. Human foods to avoid include xylitol, grapes, raisins, onions and onion powder, alcoholic beverages, yeast dough, coffee grounds, salt, macadamia nuts, avocados pits, tomato, potato and rhubarb leaves and stems, and anything with mold growing on it. Essential oils whether inhaled or ingested may lead to central nervous system depression and liver damage. Inhaled oils may lead to aspiration pneumonia (Pet Poison Helpline, 2020). Cigarettes, nicotine patches, e-cigarettes, and marijuana, whether inhaled or ingested are toxic. Bar soaps, especially those made with essential oils or glycerin are toxic. Bleach must be properly diluted followed by a thorough rinsing and airing out. Fabric softener sheets contain harmful chemicals if chewed or ingested, even if already used, and may also result", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 67, "id": "89f0e5bf-44be-49ad-bf14-85d65c6c1126", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "nia (Pet Poison Helpline, 2020). Cigarettes, nicotine patches, e-cigarettes, and marijuana, whether inhaled or ingested are toxic. Bar soaps, especially those made with essential oils or glycerin are toxic. Bleach must be properly diluted followed by a thorough rinsing and airing out. Fabric softener sheets contain harmful chemicals if chewed or ingested, even if already used, and may also result in gastrointestinal obstruction. Grout sealer of the alkaline type is poisonous to dogs leading to drooling, vomiting, and sores in a dog’s mouth. Rawhide dog chews may be contaminated with salmonella, which can infect pets and humans who come in contact with the chews.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 68, "id": "f814c41f-01c3-403e-8f76-05377b91eb36", "word_count": 104, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 135 } }, { "page_content": "These types of chews may also pose a choking hazard. Xylitol is a sugar substitute commonly found in peanut butter. Many breath mints and gum contain xylitol or menthol which can lead to seizures and liver damage. String, yarn, rubber bands, and dental floss are easy to swallow and can cause intestinal blockages or strangulation. Rope chew toys are notorious for threads that can be pulled out and swallowed and then wrap around internal organs such as the stomach and intestines requiring surgery. Electric cord burns and electrocution. “Electrocution from chewing on an electrical cord is the single most common type of electrical injury for household pets. These types of injuries can result in burns to the surrounding areas, e.g., mouth, whiskers, or facial hair. The current alters the electrical conduction in the heart, muscles, and other tissues” (PetMD, 2016, para. 1). Turn off the electricity before moving your shocked dog and seek immediate veterinary treatment. Toys with movable parts especially squeaky toys or stuffed animals with plastic eyes can pose a choking hazard to animals. Take the same precautions with your dog as you would with a small child. Slick wood floors and uncarpeted stairs are slipping hazards and often instill fear in dogs because of an experience with the unstable slippery surface. Many dogs have long fur between the digits, making slipping a real danger. Holiday decorations and lights. Ornaments appear like a toy ball to your dog but contain glass. Lights contain glass components and chewed cords may lead to electric shock. Topped holiday trees are common. Keep these items out of reach and if possible, confine your dog to an undecorated area of the home particularly while you are away from home.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 69, "id": "0b727a41-0251-4825-a083-02f88e33fc77", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Never throw your dog into the water to “see how it goes”—because your dog can easily drown, struggle or thrash and any trust you may have established will be broken. The safest, least stressful, and most effective way to teach a dog to swim is to use a properly-fitted life jacket. A life jacket often helps new swimmers relax enough to paddle with all four legs.\n\nDesensitize your dog to wearing a dog life jacket to keep him afloat and to provide peace of mind for you. Your dog’s innate ability to swim or ease in learning to swim is, in part, determined by breed and body morphology. Even some retrievers need a helping hand to learn and find the confidence to swim for fun and exercise. Breeds with short legs and wide chests such as Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Corgis, and Pugs, simply were not bred for swimming. Large, muscled breeds such as the bully breeds, require a great deal of energy expenditure in the water due to their significant body mass. Sight hounds, such as Salukis, Whippets, Italian Greyhounds and Greyhounds, have the disadvantage of both large muscles and little body fat to keep them afloat.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 70, "id": "d160423b-8778-4fea-b752-88d79a373abc", "word_count": 197, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 256 } }, { "page_content": "According to an article in the Whole Dog Journal (Colman, 2019), a common but dangerous dog myth is that our dogs already know how to dogpaddle and keep themselves afloat in the water. However, new, and panicked swimmers tend to concentrate their efforts on the front legs alone forgetting to use the back legs. One of the most important things you must teach your dog is how and where to exit the pool, should your dog accidentally fall in or literally get lost while swimming. Do not allow your dog to drink excessive amounts of chlorinated water from the pool and always make fresh water readily available. Rinse your dog off thoroughly after swims in the pool and out in nature. Dry your dog’s ears and dry under\n\nthe collar. Learn CPR for pets. Avoid contaminated still pools of water and green algae-ridden ponds. Home pools should be fully fenced to protect your dog from swimming unsupervised.\n\nHomeostasis. Temperature control is one central process that is necessary for life in response to environmental changes. According to Modell et al., (2015), “Homeostatic to maintaining consistency of the internal environment.” Serious and life- threatening hyperthermia (too hot) or hypothermia (too cold) are often seen in dogs who are exercising, left outdoors in the elements, or locked in cars where homeostasis may be critically compromised.\n\nDr. Janet Merrill, DVM, of the Urban Search and Rescue Veterinary Group (2020, para. 3), provides these normal and abnormal canine temperature parameters:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 94, "chunk_index": 71, "id": "86db602e-b9c2-4ca3-a553-04debaeca82c", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "Normal—rectal temperature between 101.0—102.5°F Hypothermia—rectal temperature less than 98.0°F Hyperthermia—rectal temperature between 102.0—108.0°F Heatstroke—rectal temperature greater than 105.8°F accompanied by central nervous system dysfunction (Merrill, 2020).\n\nAn extreme rise in body temperature is a medical emergency requiring immediate treatment to prevent disability or death (Flournoy et al., 2003). Hyperthermia, more commonly known as heatstroke, is an environmental or exertion caused life-threatening medical emergency in dogs. Dogs regulate\n\ntheir temperature and cool themselves by evaporation (panting) and conduction (transfer of heat to a cool surface). Panting creates a cooling effect through evaporation of saliva in the mouth, on the tongue and from the lining of the lungs. The primary cooling mechanism for dogs is panting with the mouth open (Coren, 2010).\n\nUnlike humans, sweating is not a significant mechanism of cooling for a dog. Dogs have no other efficient way of getting rid of body heat other than panting. Dogs do not have sweat glands, except in their feet. Your dog’s fur coat can easily make your dog susceptible to overheating. Fur is an insulator that keeps the heat (and cold) out, as long as your dog is not in a continuously hot environment. Once the body temperature rises, however, fur slows the cooling process because heat from the body cannot escape. Dogs not properly conditioned to exercise in the heat and humidity, and older dogs may suffer heatstroke very quickly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 95, "chunk_index": 72, "id": "e6a9eb8d-162a-4416-a8de-66f1041dbc4b", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs left outdoors or locked in cars may suffer hyperthermia where the dog’s body temperature becomes elevated because it is producing or absorbing more heat than it can release. Other major risk factors associated with heatstroke in dogs according to Dr. Janet Merrill (2020) include:\n\nWeight greater than 66 pounds but not associated with obesity Obesity Brachycephalic breeds Environmental conditions—either external temperature and/or high humidity Dark coat color Fatigue Previous episodes of heat exhaustion Muzzling\n\nimpede panting are that restrict breathing and particularly dangerous, disabling your dog’s ability to cool itself. To prevent hyperthermia, never use a nylon muzzle in hot weather or when exercising your dog. If necessary, use a basket muzzle properly sized to allow room for a full-mouthed pant.\n\nTemperatures at or above 105°F can cause brain damage. If the body becomes overwhelmed by a rise in temperature because of excessive heat and humidity, heatstroke occurs. According to the National Institute of\n\nHealth (2016), heat waves pose risks for susceptible individuals such as the very young, old, overweight, and the health challenged. The sweltering heat waves of summer and the long-term effects of sudden temperature changes shown in climate change models are predicted to become more frequent.\n\nAvoid exercising your dog in hot and humid conditions. Proper hydration is critical to dogs, particularly when exercising in warm conditions. Hydrate, hydrate, and hydrate. In hot weather, before, during and after exercise, use a garden hose or spray bottle frequently to dampen your dog’s fur with water to create an evaporative effect to help your dog stay cool. A child’s plastic swimming pool placed in the shade can also help your dog regulate internal temperature.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 96, "chunk_index": 73, "id": "351d4cd2-fed7-4561-942f-032eaf6fb343", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "Heatstroke may be easily prevented in healthy dogs by following these\n\nPlan exercise for cool periods of the day Provide adequate ventilation Provide free access to plenty of shade Provide free access to fresh cool drinking water and ice cubes Do not lock your dog in the car. Heatstroke often occurs when dogs are confined in cars where temperatures rise suddenly and dramatically Do not leave your dog outdoors alone unmonitored Consider a cooling device such as a sleeping pad or doghouse Condition your dog with progressive acclimation to exercise, heat, and humidity.\n\nHyperthermia begins when signs of heat stress go unheeded. Dogs who are panting heavily and if the environment permits, seeking shade, cool surfaces, and drinking water to bring body temperature down are\n\nexperiencing heat stress. A staggering gait and the appearance of “drunkenness” means your dog may be falling victim to heatstroke. According to Flournoy et al., (2003), “Signs of heatstroke are: increased panting, drooling, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, rapid heart rate, and dry, sticky, and discolored (bright pink, reddish or purple) gums and tongue. Cortical blindness, cardiovascular collapse, unconsciousness, seizures, coma, central nervous system dysfunction, shallow breathing, and death may follow if veterinary care is not sought immediately.”\n\nKnow your dog’s normal gum and tongue color so you will recognize changes in gum color should you suspect hyperthermia. If your dog is panting heavily and the gums are a dark pink—stop, rest, come indoors and offer cool water immediately.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 97, "chunk_index": 74, "id": "7be7aa79-5242-4219-b59b-3fb1da70f50b", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "Treatment should be rapid and aggressive. Measures should be taken immediately and during transport to the veterinarian to lower the body temperature by spraying your dog with cool (not cold) water and allowing evaporation, opening windows, and using air-conditioning to dissipate the heat. Cool, wet towels along the back of the neck, groin, and armpits (sites of major blood vessels) with airflow can begin the cooling process while on the road to your veterinarian.\n\nCool the body gradually—do NOT immerse your dog in cold water, administer cold-water enemas, or cover your dog’s body with a wet towel: this can inhibit your dog’s cooling mechanisms (Flournoy et al., 2003). Cold water immersion makes the core temperature rise, rather than decrease. Cold water also causes shivering generating heat and making it counterproductive to cooling.\n\nHypothermia is a medical emergency that occurs when the body is losing heat faster than it can produce heat, causing a critically low body temperature. Hypothermia, in healthy dogs, is caused by either exposure to cold weather, wet fur and skin, or immersion in cold water (Mayo Clinic, 2020b, PetMD, 2010). Dogs at risk for hypothermia include puppies, seniors, those with low body fat, heart disease, kidney disease, and hypothyroidism.\n\nShort-haired, thin-skinned, and toy breed dogs may lose heat particularly fast. If your dog is sensitive to cold, do not hesitate to add a sweater, or hoodie for sensitive ears, to provide extra warmth indoors and out. Add boots to protect tender pads when pads may suffer chemical burns from deicing salt or literally stick to icy pavement. Generally, avoid harsh weather, ice, and snow.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 98, "chunk_index": 75, "id": "fbd7ce43-3509-4388-83cd-c6cf6e3e8efb", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "Shivering is probably the first thing you would notice as your dog’s body temperature drops. Shivering is the body’s attempt to warm itself. If you notice your dog shivering on any occasion, barring a medical condition or fear, take action. However, be aware that shivering stops as hypothermia worsens. Lethargy often follows shivering and paleness (Miller, 2019). When your dog’s body temperature drops, the heart, nervous system, and other organs are unable to function properly. Hypothermia can lead to coma, heart, and respiratory failure and ultimately to death.\n\nThe standard of care for hypothermia is to use warmed blankets from the clothes dryer, or a warm (not hot) hair dryer plus a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel against your dog’s abdomen: an unwrapped water bottle may burn your dog’s skin. Check your dog’s temperature every 10 minutes. If the rectal temperature is below 98°F, seek immediate veterinary care. The successful outcome of treating hypothermia warms the body back to a normal temperature.\n\nForce-free training and force-free husbandry care go hand in glove. Although grooming is often considered a cosmetic practice, The Hierarchy of Dog Needs highlights proper and gentle grooming as an essential Biological Need and health issue. Positive experience in grooming is critical to our dogs’ physical and emotional fitness. A gentle groomer is worth her\n\nweight in gold. (See Chapter 8, How to Find a Good Veterinarian and Groomer.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 99, "chunk_index": 76, "id": "fdbed929-cff2-4f2c-8a94-c8c9da6ec845", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "A shiny coat is an indicator and mirror of your dog’s overall health. A dull coat indicates that something is amiss in your dog’s health. Proper hygiene of your dog’s coat is important for your dog’s health, including the removal of excess hair fur nests or mats that may serve as havens for bacteria, parasites, and fleas. Seasoned, knowledgeable groomers can identify possible medical issues during grooming procedures that might otherwise go unnoticed such as: Abscesses, skin conditions, ear infections, tumors, cysts, insect bites, wounds, foxtails, pebbles, splinters, small bits of broken glass, worm infestations such as maggots, and areas of sensitivities where your dog has been biting or scratching. Head shaking may mean an ear infection. If a dog rubs his head against objects, your dog may be trying to scratch itchy, infected ears.\n\nNail trims are not simply a cosmetic concern. Overgrown nails that reach and touch the floor can cause serious functional problems and deformities in your dog. Many dogs are either kept indoors or only run outdoors on soft grassy surfaces, so nails are not gradually worn down by running on concrete or blacktop. Regular nail clipping is necessary so that overgrown nails do not impede your dog’s walking gait or cause skeletal deformities of the limbs and spine, which are often accompanied by pain (College of Veterinary Medicine, Washington State University, n.d.). Dewclaws on the inner side of the paw do not reach the ground so they are not worn down naturally as the dog walks, runs, and plays.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 100, "chunk_index": 77, "id": "e5329409-24ed-4728-8b3e-a98d9ecd9e62", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "Health Problems and Pain Created by Overgrown Nails\n\nOvergrown nails lead to a vicious repetitive cycle of pain and avoidance. Dogs avoid having the nails and paws touched because of pain and fear, which leads to painful and unpleasant nail-trimming sessions, which leads to both the dog and pet parent avoiding nail trims, which leads to longer and longer intervals between nail trims, which in the end just leads to more pain. And the cycle repeats (Flaim, 2016). Below find a list of injuries and trauma a dog suffers from overgrown nails.\n\nLong nails can curl into a semi-circle and grow into the toe pad Pain in the nail bed caused by the pressure of overgrown nails pressing back into the nail bed Deformity of forelimb joints can result from nail bed pressure against the bones Unnatural weight distribution results in a predisposition to injuries Postural abnormalities, particularly in older dogs Painful and difficult walking and running Painful split and torn nails Elongated blood vessels in overgrown nails make mail trims more difficult\n\nJust as equipment and restraint devices in the dog training and veterinary professionals are moving quickly toward force-free, pain free, and fright\n\nfree options, this is the wave of the future in grooming also. However, trainers, other professionals, and pet parents may be surprised to learn of the potential danger and discomfort, physically and emotionally, in what is currently considered standard equipment in grooming.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 101, "chunk_index": 78, "id": "b6f1b8ed-fdca-4c2a-b90a-1b3d4b5e0a1c", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "Nooses. A noose attached to a grooming arm that prevents dogs from jumping off the grooming table. Dogs left unattended for a very short period of time may be hanged from attempts to jump off the table or from accidental falls. Straps. A strap under the stomach that prevents dogs from sitting. Slings. A cloth sling, often used to immobilize dogs for nail trims, is raised, hanging the dogs off the ground. Nylon muzzles. A nylon muzzle that prevents dogs from using the mouth to pant and bite. Drying cages and boxes. Dogs may suffer hyperthermia, heat exhaustion, severe burns, and death from malfunctioning equipment, or from not being properly supervised while in a drying cage with the equipment inadvertently left running. Even when properly supervised your dog’s body temperature can rise quickly. Additionally, stress makes body temperature rise faster. Clippers. Buzzing clippers may cut or nick mats that are close to the skin. Scissors. Sharp scissors may injure eyes or other body parts.\n\nGrooming is an unregulated field. There is a pressing need for the grooming industry to embrace more dog-friendly ethics and practices, making animal welfare the priority—and for pet parents to accept less than perfect grooms. Dangerous grooming practices and negligence can cause injury and even death. Some of the most egregious examples include:\n\nRaising the grooming arm. If your dog struggles while being groomed, it is not uncommon for some groomers to raise the grooming arm again and again until the dog stops struggling. The dog may be literally hung from the grooming arm and must devote all energy to breathing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 102, "chunk_index": 79, "id": "8b00cabc-dba9-430e-9980-f2d15855ef52", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "Calling for “reinforcements.” An alternate practice to raising the grooming arm is to call on another groomer to physically restrain the dog while being groomed. The more the dog struggles, the more the groomer and assistant restrain the dog until the dog stops struggling because of total physical exhaustion or fear, reported as good behavior. Aggressive dogs. A seldom-considered danger in many grooming facilities is that dogs may be attacked, severely injured, or killed by other dogs in the grooming salon. At a minimum, a dog’s socialization with people and other dogs is often negatively impacted by the grooming environment and experience if separation is not consistently used for fearful dogs and those who may aggress.\n\nImproving Standards and Best Practices of Grooming\n\nIn an exposé in the BARKS from the Guild trade magazine (2016, July), gentle cautionary recommendations. According to Martiya, “The introduction of restraints can determine whether the next grooming visit will be even more frightening for the dog, or just a mildly unpleasant experience.” Groomers should develop a training plan with the pet parent to be practiced between sessions moving toward more gentle grooming practices and restraints.\n\nHere are some suggestions for equipment and practice improvements\n\nleading to a more pleasant experience for the dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 103, "chunk_index": 80, "id": "4bc3f5cb-5c32-4f7d-a26c-059cf5340adb", "word_count": 208, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 270 } }, { "page_content": "Equipment and practices should keep the dog and groomer safe from injury. Equipment should be the least intrusive temporary solution to an immediate problem, that is, the minimal amount of equipment restraint needed for the task. Equipment should be properly conditioned, that is, desensitized, so as not to stress the dog. Equipment should be comfortable for the dog; if the dog struggles more, the groomer should try a different restraint (Martiya, 2016). The noose should be loose enough to allow the dog to sit or stand comfortably but still prevent the dog from jumping off the table. The dog should be allowed to choose the most comfortable body position.\n\nThe grooming arm should not be raised so high as to make the dog uncomfortable. The grooming arm should never be raised so high where breathing is difficult for the dog. Use of an Elizabethan collar for larger dogs are less restrictive and easier to accept than a standard muzzle. Use of an air muzzle for small dogs is much less restrictive and easier to accept than a standard muzzle. If a muzzle is necessary, the pet parent should purchase a basket muzzle and classically condition the muzzle before going to the groomer and between visits. Use the muzzle like a food bowl or deliver treats through the basket so your dog happily offers to put the head inside the muzzle (Patel, 2010). Dogs who cannot stand for long periods of time may be properly and kindly conditioned to slings, maintaining four feet on the ground. Wraps used around the head and ears to reduce dryer noise must be used with great care as they may induce tonic immobility where fear is mistaken for good behavior. (See Chapter 11, Flooding and Tonic Immobility.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 103, "chunk_index": 81, "id": "dbf7d9a8-ea0e-4eac-9e81-142a9545058b", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "Gentle veterinary care is a principal component of the foundational Biological Needs level of the Hierarchy of Dog Needs. Force-free training and force-free veterinary care go hand in glove. Veterinarians are generally the first professionals who interact with a puppy or rescued dog and some of the only people outside of family who may have a lifelong relationship with each dog. Positive interactions starting with the first veterinary visit and throughout the life of your dog are critical to a dog’s physical and emotional fitness. A stressful first visit may be a cause of behavior problems that continue throughout a lifetime of veterinary visits and may negatively affect your dog’s social development. We encourage pet parents to be pro-active in being not only their dog’s biggest fan, but their dog’s most ardent advocate as well. (See Chapter 8, How to Find a Good Veterinarian and Groomer.)\n\nAnimal hospital designers have suggested ways to make veterinary\n\nPainting walls in pastel colors. Have staff wear pastel-colored scrubs and lab coats. When seen through a dog’s eyes, a white lab coat is too bright and may be frightening. Removing fluorescent lights. The buzz from those old fixtures can be heard by dogs and may frighten them. Providing alternatives to lifting animals up on to high exam tables with cold slippery metal surfaces. Some clinics use yoga mats for animal exams. Playing classical music (Lewis, 2016).\n\nAnnual wellness health exams for the family dog should be scheduled, just as you schedule exams for your family members and yourself. To prevent pain, suffering, and the progression of disease, early veterinary diagnosis and treatment is critical to improve quality of life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 104, "chunk_index": 82, "id": "6f4e9944-dcb0-42b7-ad40-5c509e6d440a", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "A Belgian awareness campaign highlighting the benefits of veterinary visits provided free pet health care appointments on a voluntary basis (Diez et al., 2015). Seven hundred and ninety-one veterinarians participated in a the campaign examining 17,938 pets. According questionnaire, 7% of the dogs had never previously received a veterinary visit, 27% had not been seen in the past year, but 66% had been seen in the past year. A large percentage of dogs receiving veterinary care received little preventative care. The most common finding was overweight and obese dogs. The prevalence of disorders reported included obesity (33.5%), dental calculus (31.1%), inflammation of the external ear caused by bacteria (14%), mammary tumors (11.2%), cataract (9.5%), heart disease (6.4%), osteoarthritis (5.4%), and lameness (5.4%).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 83, "id": "efdf22cd-b13c-4c2b-b022-e3f138d00b1f", "word_count": 122, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 158 } }, { "page_content": "Basic and specialty veterinary services. Some of the basic and specialty advance care services veterinary professionals offer include: Wellness exams throughout the developmental stages, geriatric health care, vaccinations, urinalysis, microchipping, neutering and spaying, blood panels, treatments for infections and parasites including fleas and worms, dietary prescriptions for dogs who are ill, diagnostic x-rays, digital x-rays, cardiology, EKG/EEG, echocardiography, non-invasive ultrasound (sonogram) to evaluate the condition of internal organs, laser surgery, stem cell therapy, chemotherapy, orthopedic surgery for broken bones, patella abnormalities, joints, muscles, ligament injury, arthritis, tendons, and OFA- X-Ray to detect hip dysplasia, dermatology and rehabilitation for disease and injury. Many clinics and specialty hospitals are increasingly providing essential dental care, including services such as root canals, root planing, crown placement, gum (gingival) surgery, and orthodontics.\n\nPet parent and dog stress are key reasons why pets are not brought to the veterinarian more often for maintenance care. Many pet parents do not take their dog for veterinary care unless their dog is obviously ill, or they follow up with fewer appointments because both the pet parent and their dog are unwilling to experience the fear too often associated with veterinary visits (Volk et al., 2011). Visits to the veterinarian are essential but are too often unnecessarily stressful and even traumatic for many pet dogs. (See Chapter 11, Flooding and Tonic Immobility, and Chapter 21, Fear.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 84, "id": "7ad0b53a-a4a0-4ee5-967b-fd40aabc5863", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "The American Veterinary Association and the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists provide some insight and statistics. When veterinary students finish school, they realize they need help with learning animal behavior. Of more than 113,000 veterinarians in in the United States in private clinical, public, and corporate practice, there are fewer than 80 veterinary behavior specialists (ACVB, n.d.).\n\nIn a video interview, Dr. Karen Overall, DVM, PhD, and editor of the Journal of Veterinary Behavior, discusses the missing gap of behavior education in the veterinary education system and in veterinary medical schools (2011), “People need to realize that vets do not know that much about problem behavior, or even normal dog behavior. Worldwide it is exceptional that veterinary specialists in behavior are faculty in veterinary medical schools and yet the biggest single killer of pet dogs (and cats) are behavior problems.” More dogs are relinquished by pet parents and euthanized by animal shelters for behavior problems than as a result of medical problems. Sadly, the average pet parent does not know that most veterinarians, being medical doctors, are not necessarily knowledgeable about dog behavior. This may become a serious problem if a pet parent seeks behavior advice from a veterinarian not academically schooled in behavior as they often provide opinions on behavior or recommend aversive trainers. Behavior management guidelines set forth by the American Animal Hospital Association (2020) are reviewed below.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 107, "chunk_index": 85, "id": "cfcda511-0ed4-47c4-9eb6-a5b11cfbbaa8", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "The leading edge “Position Statement on Humane Dog Training” from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) (2021a) gives clear guidance as to the trainers and behavioral consultants veterinarians should and should not refer their clients to for training. They write,\n\nIf a trainer is observed using aversive training methods or if a trainer discusses out-dated ideas such as “dominance”, “leader of the pack”, or “alpha” theories, then clients should be advised against hiring them . . . After the health evaluation the veterinarian can determine if they have the skills and desire to create a behavior treatment plan or if they prefer to partner with a behavior consultant or trainer (p. 2.)\n\nVeterinarian specialists in Europe are often involved in conducting research, however, veterinary behavior research is rare in the United States the overwhelming majority of veterinarians are solely clinical as practitioners. They may not have a thorough understanding or knowledge of current animal behavior research, familiarity with aggressive incidents or\n\nevidence-based understanding of how to address such issues. According to the interview with Overall (2011), “A lot of our veterinarians are not thinking as scientifically as they could be.”\n\nAnimals who experience stress during a veterinary visit may mask their symptoms. Promisingly, there are a growing number of veterinarians who have sought education and are now specialize in the field of behavior. More than ever before, veterinary doctors, behavior consultants, trainers, and pet parents are working together to make visits to the veterinarian more joyful and less stressful for dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 107, "chunk_index": 86, "id": "23fd5356-3de9-4787-ae01-e683b8f2a61a", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) originally developed and published the Canine and Feline Behavior Management Guidelines in 2015 (Hammerle et al., p. 219) to help veterinarians and their staff with “concise, evidence-based information to ensure that the basic behavioral needs of feline and canine patients are understood and met in every practice.” The guidelines mandate the following: “All team members should be committed to a program of ‘behavior prophylaxis,’ whereby puppies and kittens are treated in a nonthreatening manner from their first visit.” The guidelines for veterinary practices were based on a consensus of expert opinions and clinical experience. The recommendations were researched and written by three veterinarians who specialize in behavior: Karen Overall, VMD, PhD, DACVB, CAAB; Lisa Radosta, DVM, DACVB; Emily Levine, DVM, DACVB, MRCVS; and other esteemed veterinary professionals and technicians, including Sophia Yin, DVM, MS; Marcy Hammerle, DVM, DABVP (C/F); Christine Horst, DVM; and Marcia Rafter-Ritchie, LVT, CPDT, VTS-Behavior.\n\nThe American Animal Hospital Association Canine and Feline Behavior Management Guidelines stand out as a progressive voice in the veterinary field. In their report, they champion low-fear and low stress clinic environments. The value and scope of regular veterinary visits outlined in the AAHA guidelines (2020) are publicly available and provide recommendations for comprehensive veterinary healthcare programs. These recommendations are designed to help the veterinarian deliver optimal patient care and are of great interest to pet parents and other pet-related", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 87, "id": "8da26356-91f9-4dff-83fe-978459e59911", "word_count": 234, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 304 } }, { "page_content": "professionals who want to see their pets thrive and avoid pain and suffering insofar as that may be possible.\n\nTo develop a lifelong healthcare strategy, the guidelines divide a dog’s life into five stages: Puppy, young adult, mature adult, senior and end of life (AAHA, 2020). According to Creevy et al., (2019, para. 1) in “The Canine following Life Stages Guidelines”, “The guidelines provide recommendations for managing 10 health-related factors at each of the first four canine life stages: lifestyle effect on the patient’s safety, zoonotic and human safety risk, behavior, nutrition, parasite control, vaccination, dental health, reproduction, breed-specific conditions, and a baseline diagnostic profile.” The guidelines also offer prevention, diagnostic, and therapeutic plans.\n\nVeterinary Guidance on Aversive Training Tools and Techniques\n\nIn regard to training and behavior modification recommendations for veterinarians, the AAHA clearly states, “It is essential that clients ask trainers about specific tools and techniques used. If the tools or techniques include prong collars, shock collars, leash/collar jerks/yanks or if the trainer explains behavior in terms of “dominance” or throws anything at a dog, advise clients to switch trainers” (AAHA, 2011, p. 211–212). Here are some of the AAHA warnings to veterinarians against using aversive techniques:\n\nThis task force opposes training methods that use aversive techniques. Aversive training has been associated with detrimental effects on the human-animal bond, problem-solving ability, and the physical and behavioral health of the patient.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 109, "chunk_index": 88, "id": "372e53ea-b4b9-47ff-8200-1c35dc44e2e4", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "[Aversive techniques] cause problem behaviors in normal animals and hastens progression of behavioral disorders in distressed animals. Aversive techniques are especially injurious to fearful and aggressive patients and often suppress signals of impending aggression, rendering any aggressive dog more dangerous. Aversive techniques include prong (pinch) or choke collars, cattle prods, alpha rolls, dominance downs, electronic shock collars, lunge whips, starving or withholding food, entrapment, and beating. None of those tools and methods should be used to either teach or alter behavior (AAHA, 2011, p. 213).\n\ninformation for veterinarians to help develop behavior management as a core competency for their veterinary staff and employees and include:\n\nBenefits of low-stress handling Reducing fear in the veterinary clinic\n\nRecognizing signs of anxiety and distress in dogs Handling anxious and reactive patients Behavioral developmental stages in dogs by age Potential problems that are likely to arise if exposure during developmental stages is not done properly, including profound panic, fear of humans, heightened reactivity to dogs, sensitivity to touch, fear of new things, inappropriate play, or the absence of play Behavior patterns associated with normal development Behavior patterns associated with problematic development", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 109, "chunk_index": 89, "id": "262a8542-36bd-4b07-8825-b41d8ba9f571", "word_count": 187, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 243 } }, { "page_content": "While many progressive veterinarians and clinics are aware of the need to change the old approach to behavior, some veterinarians are still seemingly unaware of the trend toward pet-friendly veterinary practice, or resistant to learning new ways. If a veterinarian refers patients to a dominance method dog trainer, or one who employs shock, prong, or choke collars, consider it a red flag pointing to the veterinarian’s lack of sufficient and accurate knowledge about appropriate emotional and behavioral modification methods for pet dogs. If your veterinary clinic has not graduated to a dog-friendly approach, it is time to open the dialogue or find a pet centered veterinarian for your dog.\n\nthe veterinarian, Dr. Marty Becker, groundbreaking Fear Free® initiative and professional certification program (2020b) program. Becker is the chief veterinary correspondent for the American Humane Association and has written 22 books. Dr. Becker tells us, “Once pets know fear, anxiety and stress, you cannot undo it. You can see it. You can smell it because dogs are stained with their own saliva from licking themselves. You can hear it and feel it” (Becker, (n.d.), cited in Manning 2016).\n\nThe Fear Free program uses a careful approach, gentle control techniques, and a calming veterinary clinic environment for your dog. The removal of anxiety triggers makes veterinary visits more enjoyable, safer, and less stressful for your dog, providing a setting conducive to the delivery of better veterinary care. The Fear Free Level 1 Certification (2020a) requires approximately 12 hours of online instruction. The program is designed for all individuals employed at a veterinary practice, including veterinarians, nurse technicians, groomers, customer service representatives and practice managers.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 90, "id": "c33632d5-2cb4-4eb8-bbc5-afb7566dc354", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Integrative veterinary medicine is a comprehensive approach to veterinary care that combines the best of conventional allopathic medicine (CAM) with alternative, natural, and holistic preventative, diagnostic, and therapeutic practices. Integrative veterinary practice promotes the benefits of natural medicine in support of conventional, allopathic, medicine. The integrative veterinary field is interested in researching new techniques, new products, and new treatments to help veterinarians provide the best possible care to animals.\n\nThe internationally renowned author, veterinarian, and force-free training advocate, Dr. Karen Becker, is a proactive and integrative wellness veterinarian. She describes her practice in this way, “My goal is to help you create wellness in order to prevent illness in the lives of your pets. This proactive approach seeks to save you and your pet from unnecessary stress and suffering by identifying and removing health obstacles even before disease occurs” (Becker, 2019).\n\nThe Veterinary Institute of Integrative Medicine (VIIM) was formed to help educate veterinarians and pet parents of the benefits of alternative approaches to healing animals and to bring integrative medicine to the forefront of animal healing. Integrative medicine seeks to treat the whole dog with an interest not limited to the medical history, but also genetics, nutrition, environment, family relationships, and stress levels. Integrative medicine asks the question, “Why”? The goal is to treat the underlying disease patterns, seeking to nurture all aspects of an animal’s well-being, resulting in lasting physical, mental, and emotional health.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 111, "chunk_index": 91, "id": "6a954607-b099-4b77-9b0f-51f49ae80d02", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "There is a dramatic paradigm shift occurring in the animal health care world. This new paradigm, which is called Integrative Medicine, takes a more holistic approach to the treatment of animal disorders than the present traditional medical model, which focuses mainly on pharmacological solutions. The mission of the Institute is to create resources to help educate veterinarians and dog, cat and horse owners about holistic veterinary medicine. (Veterinary Institute of Integrative Medicine, 2019, para. 1–2)\n\nThese therapies include but are not limited to therapies based on techniques practiced in osteopathy, chiropractic medicine, or physical medicine and therapy; veterinary acupuncture, acutherapy, and acupressure; veterinary nutraceutical therapy; and veterinary phytotherapy (AHVMA, 2016).\n\nVeterinarian, Dr. Judy Morgan, Naturally Healthy Pets, lists three\n\nMinimize harmful byproducts and chemicals. Proper diet is the foundation upon which integrative care programs are based. (See Proper Nutrition, Chapter 1.) Minimize vaccines. Recent research shows that the immunity from vaccines may last for years. Many veterinarians now recommend vaccinating less often than was formerly suggested. Consider a titer test as a possible alternative to many automatically scheduled vaccinations to check on your dog’s immunity status. Minimize medications. While medications may help treat one symptom, they may cause other symptoms, commonly known as side-effects (Morgan, 2020).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 111, "chunk_index": 92, "id": "7c669705-9272-42b8-a454-04503d1aca48", "word_count": 206, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 267 } }, { "page_content": "The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (AHVMA, 2016) promotes techniques that are “humane, gentle, minimally invasive and incorporate patient well-being and stress reduction, centered on love, empathy and respect.” Holistic veterinarians use standard therapies, such as drugs and surgery along with holistic therapies.\n\nHuman psychiatric medications to treat animal behavior problems have become an increasingly popular and lucrative practice. Yet studies in brain anatomy and function demonstrate that changing behavior changes brain chemistry both during early development and in the adult brain (Kolb et al., 2003). Many integrative veterinarians suggest that more natural remedies and a solid management and emotional and behavioral modification program must be carefully explored and implemented before turning to medications. Psychiatric medications may be helpful in severe cases as well as cases that have not responded to emotional and behavioral modification, however, unlike humans, dogs cannot self-report on the effects they are experiencing from psychoactive drugs. All drugs have side effects and sometimes unexpected and opposite paradoxical effects as well. If\n\nmedication is being considered, consulting with a veterinary behaviorist is highly recommended.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 112, "chunk_index": 93, "id": "36648fa2-26a6-4e6f-93e1-f6fd473226c5", "word_count": 177, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 230 } }, { "page_content": "The importance of regular professional dental care is often overlooked by pet parents and others involved with the care and training of your dog. It was not until the 1980s that there was a surge of interest in veterinary dentistry. According to the American Veterinary Dental Society, more than 80% of dogs develop gum disease by three years of age (Verstraete, 2016). Oral health is as necessary for your dog as it is for you and your other family members. Oral health has a profound effect on your dog’s general health, so do not forget to clean and care for those beautiful pearly whites. If left untreated, dental disease is often very painful and can contribute to other oral cavity or systemic diseases (Bellows et al., 2019, 2005). Periodontal disease allows bacteria and toxins to enter the bloodstream with potentially harmful effects to internal organs. Diseases associated with periodontal disease in dogs include bronchitis, hepatitis, endocarditis,\n\nkidney disease, and pulmonary fibrosis due to chronic, recurrent low-grade infections (DeBowes et al., 1996).\n\nThe American Veterinary Dental College (AVDC) provides a list of signs of oral and dental disease in dogs. If any one of us suffered from any of these conditions, we would be complaining of pain and visiting the dentist immediately. Our dogs cannot complain and are genetically hardwired to hide their pain.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 113, "chunk_index": 94, "id": "e4042281-f065-4477-bfa6-ca6ab9833263", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "Bad breath—foul breath very likely means decayed and painful teeth Loose teeth or teeth that are discolored or covered in tartar Drooling or dropping food from the mouth Bleeding from the mouth Loss of appetite or loss of weight Inflammation of the gums Receding gums Swelling of the jaws Behaviorally, rubbing of the face against furniture or rugs Moving away from you when you touch the mouth may indicate serious dental problems (AVDC, 2016).\n\nBegin dental care at an early age. Annual dental check-ups and x-rays with a dental veterinarian are strongly recommended. Removal of dental plaque and tartar is critical to prevent dental disease both in dogs and humans. Disease-causing plaque mineralizes on teeth in two to three days and then cannot be removed by simple brushing. Regular professional dental cleaning is the most effective way to clean beneath the gum line to prevent periodontal disease and identify problems: anesthesia-free dental cleanings do not clean beneath the gum line.\n\nIntroduce daily or twice daily brushing slowly by rubbing your dog’s teeth and gums with soft gauze wrapped around a finger. Gradually switch to a toothbrush designed for pets or to a very soft human toothbrush. Be\n\npatient, especially with older animals. Make brushing a bonding experience and avoid forceful restraint. Meat-flavored toothpaste can help! Fortunately, cavities occur much less frequently in dogs than in people (Hale, 1998).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 114, "chunk_index": 95, "id": "758b8157-6fe1-427f-acca-cb85e31b4e04", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "Dr. Sophia Yin, an internationally acclaimed veterinarian and applied animal behaviorist was at the forefront of the humane approach to handling pets in veterinary clinics, zoos, shelters, and in grooming with the goal of reducing fear and anxiety. Dr. Karen Overall, a close colleague of Yin’s, tells us, “There was no training program for what Sophia did. She chose to focus on the weakest link—animals who are fearful in veterinary settings” (Overall in Zimlich, 2014, section, A Behavior Pioneer, para. 5).\n\nDr. Yin was a pioneer in her focus and concern about the emotional well- being of pets. Yin combined science with practical and functional applications while developing low-stress handling techniques for treating and working with animals. She shared her research and methods with professionals and with the public in academic journals, magazines, teaching seminars, workshops, books, and instructional materials, including Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification for Dogs & Cats: The Small Animal Veterinary Nerdbook, her best-selling textbook, for veterinary hospitals and individual veterinarian certification (Yin, 2009). Her DVDs include Low Stress Handling of Dogs and Cats: Creating a Pet- Friendly Hospital, Animal Shelter or Petcare Business (Yin, 2012b).\n\nDr. Yin recognized early in her private practice that more dogs are euthanized due to behavior problems than medical issues. Her contributions improved the quality of life for our pets and increased the safety and efficiency of veterinary staff and other pet professionals, while paving the way for future developments in force-free training and animal care. Those involved in force-free emotional and behavioral modification feel deeply that her passing is a great loss to our field.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 115, "chunk_index": 96, "id": "e3871a3b-207e-4a06-95ce-ad1017cf99a2", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "aking care to attend Emotional Needs nurtures the relationship between pet parent and dog and helps prevent behavioral problems. Psychological and emotional health is every bit as important as physical health. Physical and emotional wellness go hand-in-glove. The insight that dogs lead rich emotional lives can be traced back to Charles Darwin (1809–1882) who hypothesized in The Descent of Man (1871, p. 448) that all animals experience pleasure and pain, happiness, and sadness, and fear.\n\nEmotions evolved to help us communicate with each other and they influence cognition and behavior. Today scientists and researchers, such as Dr. Marc Bekoff and the late Dr. Jaak Panksepp (1943–2017) who coined the term Affective Neuroscience, and Dr. Karen Overall, editor of the Journal of Veterinary Behavior, provide evidence on dog emotions. In The Emotional Lives of Animals, Bekoff tells us, “It’s bad biology to argue against the existence of animal emotions” (2007, p. xviii). Some of the leading researchers in emotional systems models include, Panksepp and Watt, Berns, Bekoff, Ekman and Cordaro, Izard, and Levenson (Tracy & Randles, 2011).\n\nNeuroscientist Dr. Jaak Panksepp theorized that environment, behavior, and emotion could not be isolated from each other. He developed an\n\ncalled Emotional Systems Model neuromodulators modulate hormones that drive emotion (Panksepp, 2010). Neuromodulators can either potentiate or inhibit nerve impulses.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 117, "chunk_index": 97, "id": "b6b1debf-85bf-4904-95b1-a3535ec272dd", "word_count": 216, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 280 } }, { "page_content": "Panksepp’s model posits that there are seven primary emotional systems. Four are Appetitive/Positive (+) and three are Aversive/Negative (-) (Montag & Panksepp, 2017). However, multiple emotional and behavioral systems may be activated in any given scenario. That is, both positive and negative emotions may be triggered in response to the same event. Panksepp’s Emotional Systems Model is explored below.\n\nAppetitive Emotional System: Seek, Care, Play, and Lust\n\nThe Seek emotion is the most prevalent. It motivates, stimulates, and often drives dog behavior. Dogs seek what they need and want, and also seek to find relief. Some of the more familiar neuromodulators that drive seeking behavior are dopamine, glutamate, and endogenous opioids.\n\nThe Care emotion drives nurturing and social bonding with humans and other animals. Two of the hormones involved in social bonding, including maternal bonding, are oxytocin, which acts as a neurotransmitter, and prolactin. Other neuromodulators that drive care include dopamine and the endogenous opioids.\n\nPlay drives the dog’s learning of social rules and defines social interactions through social bonding and having fun. It is expressed by affection, joy, and the satiation of needs. When needs are met, dogs seek to play. As a puppy, play helps dogs interact better when they reach adolescence and adulthood. Neuromodulators involved in play are glutamate, acetylcholine, endogenous cannabinoids and opioids.\n\nLust is driven by the need to mate and reproduce—to transfer one’s own genome. Hormones involved in driving lust include vasopressin, (which functions as a neurotransmitter), testosterone, and estrogen.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 118, "chunk_index": 98, "id": "60dcd416-ade3-4558-ad10-b2e5832101f7", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "Aversive Emotional Systems: Grief (formerly Panic), Fear, and Rage/Anger\n\nGrief is the emotion that drives separation anxiety in dogs, feeling lost in the environment, depression, agoraphobia, sadness, and mourning over death. Grief is inhibited by secure attachment involving the endogenous opioids, and oxytocin and prolactin, the main social bonding modulations. Grief is driven by deficits in these neuro modulations and where achieving secure attachment may have been thwarted.\n\nFear is the emotion that drives the Fight/Flight Syndrome, along with other “F’s,” notably: Freeze, fawn, fidget, and fornication under stressful situations. A real or perceived threat or a sudden loud noise, for example, drives fear. Fear itself is aversive but it sharpens the ability to escape and avoid potentially dangerous the neuromodulators, glutamate and epinephrine and norepinephrine which are both hormones and neurotransmitters.\n\nWhen seeking is interrupted, Rage may be aroused, which interacts with the fear systems. The rage core system invigorates aggression when a dog is frustrated or restrained, has its needs thwarted, or seeks to defend itself or its territory. Neuromodulators that arouse this system are Substance P and glutamate, while opioids and GABA inhibit the system.\n\nThe need for a sense of security and protection from danger is basic to all mammals and necessary to thrive. It is the pet parent’s job to teach their dogs that the world is a safe place, both physically and psychologically. Failure to meet security needs in environments and relationships leads to anxiety and psychological disorders that sometimes mirror those found in humans. The importance of creating a physically safe and secure environment and an emotionally safe and secure environment for our dogs", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 99, "id": "8b617b36-30f1-4bf6-94a7-9299ec43540c", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "should not be underestimated. Feeling physically and emotionally safe and free of fear at home, and when visiting the veterinarian and groomer are primary needs for your dog. (See Chapter 8, How to Find a Good Veterinarian and Groomer.)\n\nEstablish and maintain secure attachments, particularly with people within the home and with other dogs in and about the home and yard, thus fulfilling your dog’s need for connection. These attachments are critical to emotional well-being. It is theorized (Palmer & Custance, 2008) that the human-dog bond may be similar to an infant’s attachment to a parent; thus we use the term pet parent. The brain chemistry expressed in the human- dog bond is rooted in mutual attraction governed by the reward system in bonding. Ethologists in the 1990’s showed that dogs have patterns of attachment to humans similar to the mother-infant relationship (Topal et al., 1998). Another notable study demonstrates that the quality of a dog’s relationships to people is critical to the dog’s social behaviors and also affects problem-solving abilities (Topal et al., 1997). A research study demonstrates that both children and dogs are affected in their performance on cognitive tests by having a secure base (Horn et al., 2013). Dogs use the pet parent as the secure base for interactions with the environment, similarly, as do children.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 120, "chunk_index": 100, "id": "7efc5a80-3a1e-4563-b527-8cff2f2432b9", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "There are four attachment styles that are formed primarily by early experience. Although the effects of negative early experiences may be mitigated later in life, they are often difficult if not impossible to eliminate. Thus, the single most important factor of the human-puppy relationship is bonding and becoming a secure base for your dog. The four attachment styles are: Secure, anxious-preoccupied, dismissive-avoidant, and fearful- avoidant. Renowned anthrozoologist, Dr. John Bradshaw, points out that biologists have been reluctant to use the term love to describe the bond between a dog and pet parent, so they typically call it “attachment” (Bradshaw, 2011).\n\nThe Hierarchy of Dog Needs includes love as an essential Emotional Need of dogs. This break-through concept has significant implications and offers scientifically and empirically supported rationales. It is not just that we love our dogs, but that our dogs need our love. Love is an action word. To love a dog is to treat a dog with compassion, that is, seeking to understand what makes dogs “tick” and to remain steadfastly loyal to them. Ensuring that their social-emotional well-being is met day in, and day out is the number one priority—rather than treating dogs as virtual captives, born to do our bidding making us happy for as long as is convenient for us.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 120, "chunk_index": 101, "id": "10686d74-64a1-46ab-a42e-fcd434bd3212", "word_count": 214, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 278 } }, { "page_content": "Scientists in various fields, from neuroscience to anthropology, have suggested that much of what we call love is explained by hormonal and brain chemistry, according to Harvard University paper titled, “Love, Actually” (Wu, 2017). Multiple studies demonstrate that the same systems are activated when dogs interact with us as between people who are in love. Oxytocin is called the love hormone in humans. The scholarly study by Kis et al., (2014) concluded that the oxytocin system also mediates the social behavior of dogs towards people. Oxytocin is essential not only in maternal bonding, but in stress-reduction and social cooperation.\n\nThe famed neuroscientist, Dr. Gregory Berns, describes the purpose of his work, “to understand the dog-human relationship from the dog’s in his breakthrough book, How Dogs Love Us: A perspective” Neuroscientist and His Adopted Dog Decode the Canine Brain (2013). Berns’ research was motivated by the death of his dog Newton. Berns wanted to learn if Newton had loved him the way he had loved Newton. He wanted to find out what dogs are thinking and feeling. Berns’ discovered that the dog brain looks and functions much like the human brain in some enlightening and analogous ways. His work provides us with a physical description of what happens in a dog’s brain when the dog has a pleasant association with “their” person.\n\nDr. Berns’ work in fMRI’s (functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging) with unrestrained awake dogs measured cognitive changes in the dog’s brain activity, mapping the neurological basis for individual preferences. Dr. Berns’ book, How Dogs Love Us (2013) is based upon research from his Dog Project (2012–2016).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 121, "chunk_index": 102, "id": "65269687-c3e7-418d-8df4-42d3bd66fc6c", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "The Dog Project maps the perception and decision-making function of the dog brain and compares the maps to human brain maps. The same anatomical structure includes a brain region, known as the caudate nucleus which “lights up” in both dog and human bonds, when associated with positive emotions. The data strongly suggests dogs love us and miss us when we are gone. In a Psychology Today interview with Dr. Marc Bekoff, Berns tells us, “These data can be further used to move us away from simplistic, reductionist behaviorist explanations of animal behavior and animal emotions and also be used to protect dogs and other animals from being abused” (Berns in Bekoff 2013, para. 9). Bekoff states in no uncertain terms, “Move over, B. F. Skinner and those who defy and deny what we know by continuing to claim that people who say that other animals have rich and deep emotional lives are being overly sentimental and soft, anthropomorphic and non-scientific: They are wrong” (Bekoff, 2013, para. 10). Professor Berns concurs with other leading researchers in animal emotions, “Now using the MRI to push away the limitations of behaviorism, we can no longer hide from the evidence. Dogs and probably many other animals (especially our closest primate relatives) seem to have emotions just like us” (Berns in Bekoff, 2013, para. 10).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 122, "chunk_index": 103, "id": "107ced2c-25da-49ab-b6f2-5f672fda9c02", "word_count": 220, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 286 } }, { "page_content": "Domestication has provided dogs a pathway to form close affectionate bonds with people (Topal, 2006). The genetic basis for domestication and the development of affection toward people is well-established in the work on silver foxes by famed researchers Belyaev et al., (1981) and Trut et al., (2002). According to a study published in Animal Cognition, dogs may express empathic concern and comfort-offering behaviors (Custance & Mayer, 2012). Rather than approaching the typical source of comfort, the pet parent, dogs approached strangers who were pretending to cry, and started sniffing, nuzzling, and licking them.\n\nIn the chapter entitled “For the Love of a Dog” in his book The Genius of Dogs: How Dogs are Smarter Than You Think (2013), Dr. Brian Hare asserts, “Despite the abuse dogs suffer at our hands, no other species is as loyal to the human race as a dog. Dogs behave like children in various ways: following their owners around, vocalizing to get their attention, and clinging to them when they are unsure.” Hare’s research shows that gentle petting decreases cortisol and releases chemicals in the dog’s brain, producing feelings of calmness and affection.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 122, "chunk_index": 104, "id": "da4ddafe-b5bc-4065-a144-f929bf15d908", "word_count": 188, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 244 } }, { "page_content": "As the scientific scholarly literature about dogs and love progresses, not only for personality characteristics and a need for love in our dogs supportable, but there is also a genetic basis that points to it as well. Canine behaviorist researcher, Dr. Clive Wynne’s book Dog Is Love (2019) explores dogs’ attachment to humans through studies from his Canine Science Collaboratory at Arizona State University and cutting-edge studies worldwide. Wynne collaborated with geneticist Dr. Bridgett vonHoldt et al., (2017) who found evidence in dogs that three genes may be a key to explaining their unique and exaggerated interest in people. These genes are involved in human Williams-Bueren syndrome. In this genetic disorder one of the outstanding personality traits is the hyper social trait of behaving in an overly friendly manner.\n\nIn Psychology Today, dog researcher and author, Dr. Marc Bekoff, tells us, “We do indeed know what and who dogs want and need, and it isn’t rocket science. Dogs (and other animals) want and need to feel loved, safe and secure, want and need to interact and have fun and play with their friends and engage in frenetic “zoomies” when they can” (Bekoff, 2018, para. 3).\n\nDogs need love. It behooves us to give it freely, consistently and without reservation and to do no harm psychologically or physically. Be the soft place for your dog to land, the soft place that can be counted upon to show your dog love.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 123, "chunk_index": 105, "id": "f93c38e9-4dde-453b-ad05-f173565bec15", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "All relationships thrive on trust and good communication. Trust is the cornerstone belief that someone is reliably trustworthy. The hormone and neurotransmitter oxytocin is often referred to as the “trust hormone” because it facilitates bonding. Trust takes time to establish and is easily broken. Sadly, when trust is broken it may seriously damage the relationship and is often irreparable. Establishing and evenly maintaining trust with your dog could not be more important to their emotional health.\n\nAssessing your dog’s emotional trust level leads to a better understanding of your dog’s propensity to experience joy as well as fear, or the likelihood of displaying aggressive behavior.\n\nTrust is inversely related to anxiety and distress. Anything that threatens homeostasis causes stress. In a study in the Journal of Comparative Medicine entitled, “Animal Well-being II: Stress and Distress”, Calpin tells us, “Numerous factors associated with needs, life in captivity, threatening events, or aversive stimuli may threaten homeostasis. An animal’s well- being and quality of life is a reflection of your dog’s internal somatic and mental state that is affected by what your dog perceives” (Calpin et al., 1997, para. 1).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 124, "chunk_index": 106, "id": "acfef3f2-634f-4167-80b2-bb8dd30b2cf8", "word_count": 187, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 243 } }, { "page_content": "Understanding how your dog perceives a threatening situation is key to establishing trust. You may know a situation is not a threat, but your dog is not functioning with the same complex cognitive abilities that humans have acquired. In addition, remember, you do not meet other dogs eye-to-eye as your dog does. Another dog may be loudly broadcasting threat signals to your dog that go unnoticed or may be misinterpreted by you. The threat may be quite real for your dog: it may be the human perception that is not in line with reality! As trusted caretakers and pet parents, you need to become experts in recognizing potential stressors for your dog. This is commonly referred to as avoiding trigger stacking in dog training. Real and perceived threats to your dog’s well-being often lead to abnormal and maladaptive disorders.\n\nEmotional and biological well-being are enhanced by your dog’s familiarity with the environment, including dog and human social groups, and also by predictable changes in the environment. When you increase predictability that can be trusted, stress decreases. The result is an increased\n\nsense of joy and well-being and often a decrease in fearful behaviors in your dog. Both learning ability and memory impairment are associated with stress, as is long-term depression. Immune dysfunction and shortened lifespan related to disease processes have been shown in research to have a negative effect on health and longevity (Dreschel, 2010).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 125, "chunk_index": 107, "id": "1ae3546b-c1cb-4c9b-a5ed-10336a9d01ec", "word_count": 235, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 305 } }, { "page_content": "Building a bond of secure attachment through trust is a responsibility every person with a dog in the family needs to embrace. The high rate at which dogs are surrendered to shelters, breaking the bond of trust, raises serious ethical questions. Since all healthy relationships are based on trust, the obligation to build a secure and lasting attachment with your dog is a must (Hens, 2009).\n\nBoth acute and chronic stressors should be regularly and competently assessed with an open heart. As your dog’s caregiver, you are your dog’s safe haven both physically and emotionally. You want to show your dog that your home is safe, and that the world is a wonderful place to live.\n\nDogs love routines. It is important to us, as sentient creatures, to be able to predict outcomes. It is equally important that your dog is able to predict outcomes because your dog is dependent upon you. Dogs thrive when daily events are predictable, and when your mood is consistent when you communicate with them. Just as routines are helpful for people to maintain emotional stability, it is even more so with your dog. Continuity and stability go hand-in-glove. Continuity is the flip side of novelty. So much of your dog’s life is controlled. Providing activities that your dog loves and can expect to occur, such as scavenging breakfast, walk time, and chew hour; gives your dog a sense of control over an otherwise seemingly chaotic, or boring environment. Predictability lends itself to emotional security. Dependable secure attachment lays the groundwork in forming healthy relationships. Consistency in emotional attachments formed in early puppyhood is essential for your adolescent and adult dog to thrive. Consistency accelerates the learning process for your dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 126, "chunk_index": 108, "id": "8e91f9fc-8557-4f80-9b48-e95ab7d4824c", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "Apply dog rules and boundaries consistently. Have all members of your household, visitors, and employees agree upon and reinforce the desired behaviors you want rather than reinforcing the behaviors you do not want. If anyone who interacts with your dog sends your dog mixed messages, your dog cannot learn what is expected or wanted. Do not ignore an unwanted behavior one day and carelessly and inadvertently reward it on another day. That is just not fair to your dog!\n\nBenevolent leadership is needed if you so much as housetrain your dog. Domesticated dogs are our companions, and it is the responsibility of the trainer and the pet parent to guide them with a patient, kind and gentle hand. Dogs deserve no less.\n\nDogs Are Cognitively Similar to a Toddler—For Life\n\nResearch illustrates, dogs have the cognitive development of a child at approximately two to three years of age and need to be treated with the same understanding and patience afforded to a toddler. Dr. Gregory Berns, professor of neuroeconomics at Emory University led a team of researchers in identifying the small region in dogs’ left frontal cortex that regulates self- control. The famed dog researcher, using MRI images, tells us, “Whatever amount of self-control they have must be eked out of a small piece of brain real estate” (Berns in MacLellan, 2016, para. 9).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 109, "id": "7a3c19c8-b73f-41fc-9370-54d1f69a7839", "word_count": 224, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 291 } }, { "page_content": "As opposed to dominance tactics, the need for benevolent leadership is imperative in order for a sense of security, trust, and love to grow. Authentic leadership does not dominate, force, intimidate, or employ other aversive techniques that cause fear or stress and damage the relationship with your dog and other people as well. Yet, positive does not mean permissive. Effective leadership confidently and calmly teaches your dog how to live happily with people.\n\nModern training never requires you to psychologically intimidate or physically hurt your dog, regardless of what a pet-professional, family member, friend, or neighbor may say. Indeed, harsh methods have\n\ndeleterious effects on your dog which are far-reaching and may be irreversible. Do No Harm Dog Training is not only safer and more humane, but it is more effective than aversive training and it is relatively easy for anyone to learn. No competent trainer uses force or collars that cause pain. Nothing shouts “I have no skill” like a trainer who uses shock, prong, or choke collars—and pain or dominance with dogs.\n\nWe already have all of the resources our dogs want and need. It’s simple, really. Learn how to manipulate the rewards to get the behavior that you want by communicating in a language your dog can understand. There is never a need for aversive methods.\n\nogs are social creatures, just as we are, and have characteristics that often mirror our own. Social bonding with humans and other dogs should be guided and encouraged through gentle, two-way, and non-threatening interactions, ideally from a very early age. Importantly, play in all its various expressions has a vital essential role in behavioral development and should be encouraged.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 110, "id": "42ec4bcc-ca7d-47b1-963c-501022978bb7", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "The risk of developing emotional and behavioral problems from the lack of proper, early, and continuing frequent socialization opportunities is significant. However, the expectation that dogs should be social butterflies is unrealistic because it is not abnormal for animals to compete for resources. Without laws and cultural social taboos to govern humans, our competitiveness would take other forms as well. In addition, dogs appear to fall on a spectrum of sociability from introvert to extrovert similar to humans. Some dogs prefer the company of people, while others prefer the company of their own kind.\n\nAnimals are a source of social support as more and more people identify their dogs as a family member. Not surprisingly, dogs look to humans for social support as well. Research has shown that dogs are capable of some empathic abilities toward humans, by demonstrating contagious yawning (Arnold, 2017). Pet parents often cite situations where their anxious dogs clearly look to them for comfort, support, and direction. Dogs can read our facial expressions often better than humans can read each other’s facial expressions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 130, "chunk_index": 111, "id": "84d0a116-09ae-4e43-a503-338fb890b4c9", "word_count": 177, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 230 } }, { "page_content": "The health benefits to people who interact with dogs is well documented in the scientific literature. The Human Animal Bond Research Institute (HABRI) at Purdue University is an online research resource that classifies and archives research on the science of the human-animal bond. Under the direction of the human-animal bond scholar, Dr. Alan Beck. HABRI reports that, “Positive human-animal interaction appears to be related to changes in physiological variables both in humans and animals, particularly dogs” (HABRI, (n.d.). This is evident by a decrease in blood pressure and heart rate when animals and humans interact. The hormones associated with well- being in both humans and dogs, e.g., cortisol, oxytocin, b-endorphin, and dopamine, are triggered and expressed when animals and humans interact.\n\nWe can easily see areas where dogs help people, such as: Child health and development, search and rescue, disability and guide dog companions,\n\nautism spectrum disorder, dementia, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD), trauma, relief from social isolation and loneliness, workplace wellness, cardiovascular health, cancer detection and recovery, healthy aging, and general quality of life, among many others. The list is long.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 131, "chunk_index": 112, "id": "07608e1b-eeb5-4fbe-8768-2022da072539", "word_count": 182, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 236 } }, { "page_content": "Conversely, however, pet parents may dismiss their dog’s genuine need for companionship. The primary relationship is the most critical factor influencing a dog’s welfare and well-being. Emotional arousal and physiological measures are taken to understand better how dogs experience their daily interactions with pet parents. The quality of a relationship with dogs is indicated by a high frequency of positive interactions with them (Beck, 2003). The Hierarchy of Dog Needs leads us to ask: “What do we do in return for our dogs to meet their social need for us as their dependable and gentle caretakers, steadfast companions, and protectors?”\n\nAn insightful doctoral thesis by Dr. Therese Rehn, “Best of Friends? Investigating the Dog-Human Relationship” looks at how dogs experience the relationship with their pet parents (Rehn, 2013). She asks, “What is the impact that we have on our dogs?” Rehn’s research is based upon in human psychology and attachment and social support anthrozoology in I Like My Dog, Does My Dog Like Me? (Rehn, 2014). Recent studies have shown that oxytocin levels increase in dogs interacting with their primary attachment figure versus interacting with a stranger. Humans have bred dogs through artificial selection to be companion animals and working partners: science indicates that we may have bred a hyper-social behavioral system into our dogs. If our dogs are denied or thwarted in their natural inclination to connect with us, serious emotional and social deficits and behavioral problems are likely to develop.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 132, "chunk_index": 113, "id": "278d5796-465c-4c20-88aa-873f51a40755", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "A dedicated lifelong commitment to your relationship with your dog is essential for your dog to thrive and not suffer unnecessarily. Dogs need to bond with humans to form reliable secure attachments. When bringing a dog into our home, it is our responsibility to see this Social Need is met. Provide your dog with enriching experiences, such as going for rides in the car to new, secure environments. Be the trusted, benevolent leader your dog turns to when feeling unsure or frightened.\n\nIf your puppy misses out on appropriate puppy-friendly play opportunities, the communication deficits may be difficult for your adolescent or adult dog to overcome. Social deficits with people and low dopamine levels increase the risk for addiction to one-way style games. One-way games using prey drive, such as tossing a tennis ball or chasing a lure-toy, may be high intensity, but your dog is not truly interacting with you (Kaufer, 2013).\n\nPrinceton University evolutionary biologist, Dr. Bridgett vonHoldt, studies the underlying genetic basis for social behavior in dogs. Dr. Gary M. Landsberg, DVM, DACVB and author of “Social Behavior of Dogs” in the Merck Veterinary Manual, reports that relationships with people are not established by dominant/submissive signaling but are a result of genetics and shaped by learning (Landsberg, 2020). As a result of human intervention and selective breeding, humans have bred biddability in our dogs, so it is our responsibility to follow through and care for their emotional well-being with a lifetime of commitment and gentle care, even when the going gets tough, or when we are having a bad day. Bradshaw (2011, p. 171) reminds us, “Since we humans have programmed this vulnerability, it’s our responsibility to ensure that our dogs do not suffer as a result.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 132, "chunk_index": 114, "id": "3e7fd995-a448-4138-8bad-5b2cd2bd15b7", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Recognizing when dogs want to engage and when they do not and training them with the methods detailed in The Hierarchy of Dog Needs truly enhances your relationship with your dog.\n\nHow do we know that dogs need other dogs? What are the genetically determined social bonds that exist between dogs? The propensity for bonding in dogs runs deep because “All dogs are domesticated wolves” (Safina, 2015, p. 222). Wolves have complex social structures. Many wolf races have the most complex form of social organization among wild canids, that is, the pack. The pack is typically comprised of related individuals with just one male and one female breeding at a time while the other members assist in raising the young. Co-operation is essential in the\n\nrearing of young and is also involved in co-operative group hunting (Serpell, 2007). High social attentiveness and tolerance in wolves are believed to be an important factor in the evolution of cooperative dog- human relationships (Range & Viranyi, 2015). Similarly, with dogs, these social behaviors may be genetically driven (Safina, 2015).\n\nHowever, domesticated dogs are genetically altered from their naturally evolved wild ancestors. Dogs often live lives of isolation from one another. The range of diversity across breeds suggests there may be other social system differences between breeds. Similarities in wolf-like traits vary, as do social behaviors from one situation to another. These factors make designing within and between group interactions difficult to research.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 133, "chunk_index": 115, "id": "98fb001c-467f-469e-8c5a-fe4bc8ae6e4b", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "Critical Periods of Learning from Others During Development\n\nimportance of early and frequent positive During puppyhood, developmental experiences with a wide variety of dogs enhances a predisposition to pro-social behavior later in life especially during the critical, sensitive period of development. Puppies learn bite inhibition from other puppies and older puppy-friendly dogs during fair play. Learning bite inhibition helps to prevent miscommunication and overstepping boundaries with other dogs. Dogs may form secure attachment bonds with other dogs similar to the secure attachment bonds they ideally form with humans. Rightly matched individuals and groups of dogs generally bond. A fearful dog can learn to overcome fear from a more confident dog. One dog may help another dog grieve loss.\n\nTo develop and maintain social relationships, clear and effective communication between two dogs or the members of a cohort group is essential. Communication and relationships between dogs (intraspecific aka within the species) are established through visual signals, vocalization, scent, and pheromones. Visual signals include body posture, tail and ear carriage, facial expressions, and piloerection. It may be very challenging for a dog to accurately interpret the signals of other dogs because of selective breeding and the wide variation in body morphology across breeds, breed behavioral traits, cropped ears, and docked tails.\n\nA failure to understand your dog’s social developmental needs may lead to a lifetime of heartache for you both. Our dogs need not be social butterflies and we should not have that expectation of them. However, the", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 134, "chunk_index": 116, "id": "8e24bcf7-3181-466e-b10f-65271aecb4dc", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "ability to tolerate the proximity and hopefully to have friendly interactions with others of the same kind, can go a long way toward a happy partnership between you and your dog, and your dog and the larger world. Nevertheless, dog-dog aggression need not be a deal-breaker. (See Chapter 17, Dog-Dog Aggression.) The Pet Professional Guild has an excellent resource page that includes my contribution, “Puppy Socialization and Vaccinations Belong Together” (Michaels, 2012; Pet Professional Guild, 2012, 2020d).\n\nPlay is an important type of enrichment and positive reinforcement because it elicits positive emotions. Most healthy dogs love playing by themselves, with people, with other dogs, and with toys and objects when given a chance and if it feels safe. Play should be, by definition, voluntary and self- rewarding. Play is an integral part of your dog’s life, particularly in puppyhood, as it is in our own lives. Puppies learn a great deal from fair play, just as we do.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 135, "chunk_index": 117, "id": "f536abc5-72a7-4df4-8371-1d285400ae58", "word_count": 158, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 205 } }, { "page_content": "Play has a vital role in healthy adult dog development and social interactions. Dogs need to play. Play is biologically, emotionally, socially, and cognitively beneficial to your dog. Dr. Stuart Brown, founder of the United States National Institute of Play is clear about the mental health imperative of play. He tells us, “The opposite of play is not work—the opposite of play is depression” (Brown, 2008, TED). Dr. Mechtild Kaufer in the highly rated book, Canine Play Behavior (2013) tells us that frequent players have lower cortisol levels and typically live life in a more relaxed manner, whereas, dogs raised in isolation suffer from a permanent reduction in their dopamine, noradrenaline, and serotonin levels, in the long term. Carefree social contact involving tactile stimuli such as physical contact that includes petting, stimulates the release of oxytocin and helps bond dogs to each other and to us. Thus, for your dog to truly thrive, you must begin recognizing play as a need.\n\nYour dog can work off excess energy during play and get those endorphins flowing whether your dog is playing with you or another dog. Play is great physical exercise, increases coordination and keeps your dog in tip-top shape while practicing dodging, running away, and chasing. These valuable skills are adaptive to survival.\n\nOne indispensable benefit of play is learning how to cooperate, trust, and be fair to others by learning social rules. Play requires self-control and teaches empathy. Fair play facilitates resiliency. Play trains dogs for the unexpected challenges in life within a typically low-risk setting, creating greater emotional flexibility in your dog, enhancing the ability to cope, and navigate fear-inducing conditions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 135, "chunk_index": 118, "id": "ad92b5bb-3d53-4135-863a-0e309dac8a96", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "All dogs should be given the opportunity to practice and improve upon their social skills during play. Dr. Marc Bekoff, PhD in Animals at Play identifies the four features of fair play rules for dogs:\n\n1. Ask first 2. Be honest 3. Follow the rules and 4. Admit when you are wrong with a play bow! (Bekoff, 2008)\n\nThere are discrete, concrete things to look for and recognize in appropriate play between dogs whether on a playdate or at a dog park. Do not listen to people who tell you to “Let them work it out.” It is your responsibility to protect your dog’s physical and emotional well-being when it comes to play. Normal, healthy play can be rowdy, noisy, and include body slamming, gestures, and vocalizations that may frighten pet parents. There are very specific things to put on your “acceptable” or “caution/ danger” list. (See Chapter 9, Dog Play Rules, Dog Parks and Dog Beach Safety Tips.)\n\nhe father of positive psychology, Dr. Martin E. Seligman (born 1942), is known best for his break-through research on learned helplessness, happiness, and resilience. Seligman further conducted experiments demonstrating that mental events are causal. His research opened the door to the study of cognition, contrary to the theory and practice of the radical behaviorists of his time (Schultz & Schultz, 2008). Cognitive scientists illustrated that the rich internal lives of dogs are more complex than can be understood or explained through Skinnerian consequences and Pavlovian responses. The cognitive exercise of choice, problem-solving, and experiencing novelty at home and in the environment crowns our pyramid.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 136, "chunk_index": 119, "id": "14337b59-de06-4b5d-82f0-3bb9fc77a84d", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Cognition involves internal mental processes, such as motivation, attention, memory, perception, decision-making, and problem-solving—the conscious processes interfacing between stimuli and responses. Cognitive\n\nscience celebrates many types of intelligence, not just learning in the behavioral sense. Hare and Tomasello (2005) suggest that the process of domestication afforded dogs advanced socio-cognitive abilities. Examples of dogs’ intelligence include understanding human gestures, learning new words, facility at communicating, making inferences, and recruiting help and cooperation with others. Dr. John P. Pilley helped redefine intelligence in dogs by teaching his dog, Chaser, the names of more than a thousand different objects by means of exclusion. Play was the main reinforcer for Chaser’s learning. “Dogs are smarter than we think,” Pilley confirms (2013, [Video]. YouTube).\n\nDr. Brian Hare, PhD in Biological Anthropology, founded the Duke University Canine Cognition Center where he tests both pet and working dogs. Dr. Hare illustrates human-like responses in dogs, suggesting there are many similar cognitive processes guiding both humans and dogs (Barrows, 2011). Hare’s Citizen Science enterprise, Dognition, has analyzed a large amount of data from pet parents. The array of data collected help researchers understand dogs more quickly and on a much broader scale than single studies typically do. There are 5 cognitive dimensions: Empathy, communication, memory, reasoning, and cunning. Hare discovered that each dog has a unique set of cognitive skills and a style to navigate their environment and the world. Some dogs are great communicators, some have great memories and yet others are best at the connecting with their humans (Hare, 2020).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 139, "chunk_index": 120, "id": "54f52915-a60a-4722-ba56-e386a7daef5f", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "In a book review published in the American Scientist, Dr. Bekoff, a self- described rich cognitivist, points out, “Many observations show that members of some species imitate other animals, empathize with them, are is able neurobiological evidence to support the conclusion that some animals have a theory of mind), and have culture and rather sophisticated patterns of communication” (Bekoff, 2004).\n\nChewing and sniffing activities enrich your dog’s life through mental and physical stimulation. Intellectual exercise, such as learning new skills, tricks, and playing with interactive toys, complements aerobic exercise and helps to decrease stress and boredom. Scent work is a popular choice for senior dogs, dogs recovering from injuries, and dogs suffering from debilitating medical conditions. These are engaging alternatives for dogs who are unable to participate in aerobic exercise safely.\n\nNaturally, we want to teach our dogs to make good choices that will become regular habits. Dogs being virtual captives, are given the choices that you alone allow them to make. Insomuch as the pet parent controls all of a dog’s resources and freedoms, they can either provide generous opportunities for choice, or restrict their dog’s ability to make choices for themselves. The latter generates stress, and moreover, may open the door to mental illness. A happy dog’s life is not an unrelenting series of if/then contingencies imposed upon our dogs by us.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 140, "chunk_index": 121, "id": "2f70f73d-1bc6-469d-a5ad-e1d596fde70b", "word_count": 224, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 291 } }, { "page_content": "traditional, balanced or even positively oriented formal obedience training, empowerment-based training increases the amount of control our dogs have over the environment thus meeting their own needs and decreasing stress. In Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 Grisha Stewart tells us, “Exerting too much control disempowers the learner, whether it is done through threats or treats” (2016, p. 8).\n\nIn psychological terms, Locus of Control refers to the degree to which your dog feels control over the outcome of events rather than feeling helpless. The effect of perceived control and the exercise of choice are self- rewarding and help your dog regulate emotions (Cho, 2017). Controlling circumstances and behavior that revolve around safety issues is critical for your dog. Your guidance must enhance experiences and provide\n\nenrichment. One of the ways this is accomplished is by providing choices. Asking for consent in various known or potentially stressful conditions, particularly those that involve touch, approach, strangers, and other dogs will give your dog situational and environmental control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 141, "chunk_index": 122, "id": "0c77eae7-2eed-4bb2-86e2-00ac5b0318a4", "word_count": 164, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 213 } }, { "page_content": "Dr. Hope Ferdowsian, MD, physician and animal protection advocate writes, “Like many vulnerable humans, animals are capable, though often deprived, of making informed decisions about their lives. Animals can express assent and dissent, but we rarely respect their personal sovereignty in ways that acknowledge their aptitude for making choices. Play and cooperation among animals are examples of how animals can express consent with one another, but we do not speak the languages of other animals, and they typically do not speak ours. Even when they express dissent to us, their feelings are often ignored” (2016, para. 8). Cooperative veterinary care and grooming are using Choice in voluntary husbandry more frequently, just as progressive zoos have already been doing for some time. Allowing your dog the option of saying, “yes” or “no” is an invitation - however, the pet parent must be ready to accept, “no” as an answer! Respecting your dog’s choices through voluntary cooperation built upon trust, will go a long way toward helping your dog cope in what can too often be a very stressful human-dominated universe.\n\nThe founder of Horse Charming, Max Easey, is a pioneer in the area of science-based, force-free education and training for horses. Easey makes “consent training” for horses the basis for initiating, continuing, or stopping interaction with horses (Easey, 2014). She explains,", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 142, "chunk_index": 123, "id": "d6179cc7-3563-464d-9729-21d0696cf883", "word_count": 220, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 286 } }, { "page_content": "Consent training gives the horse a simple way to directly control our behaviour, by teaching the horse to use cues they can give to us that tell us when to proceed AND when to retreat or take a break. What we want is a two-way conversation that gives the animal the right to change their mind, even if they’ve just given consent. This turns most training on its head because for the most part trainers train animals to be able to control their own behaviour (M. Easey, personal communication, October 11, 2019).\n\nIn dog training, Chirag Patel’s novel technique he coined The Bucket Game, he provides dogs the option of giving consent to the continuation of training . . . or to do something else, should the dog say “no” or “not right now.” It is a game of choice. According to Patel, “We’re teaching dogs that their behavior has function” so that we’re empowering our dog’s choices rather than suppressing them (Patel, 2015, [Video] YouTube).\n\nNovelty-seeking is behavior of an exploratory nature. Exploration allows animals to gather information about their environment. A study by Kaulfub & Mills (2008) demonstrates that dogs are naturally predisposed, attracted to, and prefer novel rather than familiar stimuli. Novelty-seeking is thought to be one of the temperament dimensions of personality and risk-taking. The degree of seeking novelty balances the need for consistency. Assessing your dog’s needs at each stage of their growth helps you achieve a proper balance between the two.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 142, "chunk_index": 124, "id": "44d1803d-21e6-4e40-8f03-e5b5d1fc6e28", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "Novelty is associated with learning and has many benefits for your dog such as participating in self-rewarding, species-specific activities, and enhancing confidence. Puppies raised in a visually barren environment with an early separation from their mothers are often excessively fearful of novel situations (Bronson, 1968). Puppies and dogs of all ages must be provided with an enriched environment in a sometimes otherwise rather dismal world that lacks dog-centered stimulation and activities.\n\nEnriching your dog’s environment empowers your dog by giving your dog the satisfaction of controlling some of the outcomes of their behavior while experiencing the excitement of exploration. Customizing enrichment to meet your dog’s needs improves health and wellness. Adding complexity to the environment has many benefits and increases normal behavior patterns, often reducing problem behaviors that may result from boredom and\n\nfrustration. Novelty enhances your dog’s ability to cope with challenges. A barren environment causes chronic stress that may result in self-injury such as excessive chewing of the feet, tails or other body parts and stereotypies. Providing scent enrichment activities which activates their novelty-seeking interests is important. Conversely, taking great care in protecting our dogs from scents that may be offensive or toxic to them is critical.\n\nThe Center for Animal Welfare at Purdue University published a paper wherein researchers from the College of Veterinary Medicine outline five types of enrichment: Social, occupational, physical, nutritional, and sensory (Garvey et al., 2016).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 143, "chunk_index": 125, "id": "dec867f6-a15e-4909-be01-c260735eac53", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "1. Social Enrichment meets the need for novelty and interaction with people and other dogs.\n\n2. Occupational Enrichment provides a novel challenge, a “job” that facilitates both mental and physical exercise, such as fly-ball or playing fetch and solving food puzzles “games.”\n\n3. Physical Enrichment enhances the quality and the complexity of your dog’s living environment, providing novel toys, digging activities, doggy doors that allow choice over social and physical space, a view of the great outdoors, and perhaps a sanctuary to hide within when frightened.\n\n4. Nutritional Enrichment includes natural foraging/scavenging, hiding food, and proper species-specific nutrition.\n\n5. Sensory Enrichment stimulates the senses of smell, sight, sound, and tactile enrichment suited to your dog’s needs. Some examples of novel enrichment are visual images, music, grazing, nose games, and sensory gardens which can decrease stress.\n\nIn Canine Enrichment: The Book Your Dog Needs You to Read (2019, p. 9) author Shay Kelly asks, “What have dogs got? Only what we give them. Our modern lives are full, often too full, but a dog’s life is empty, far too empty.” Kelly has developed a uniquely progressive roadmap to providing enrichment for our dogs, known as “The Five Elements of Canine Enrichment.”\n\n1. Safe Environment is essential to the enjoyment of life and decreasing fear.\n\n2. Food Enrichment delivers high value calories in a setting that enhances emotional as well as physical well-being through seeking.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 144, "chunk_index": 126, "id": "f68c301e-cb56-4228-a1da-10fc2f99f5a8", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "3. Non-Food Enrichment includes play toys and outdoor activities. 4. Companionship and Bonding recognizes the need for secure attachments and sociality.\n\n5. Natural Behaviour enrichment provides opportunities for dogs to engage in sniffing, play and running.\n\nThere is a growing research interest in the cognitive abilities of dogs because they show more than expected success in problem-solving skills, which may involve higher cognitive abilities (Viranyi et al., 2006). Here are some examples that have spurred interest among scientists.\n\nResearcher Kaminski et al., (2004) found that the Border Collie, Rico, was able to acquire the names of novel items through fast-mapping and exclusion learning. Some dogs use cognitive process, which are remarkably similar to human processing of information. Search and rescue missions employ dogs in problem-solving activities for the purpose of finding missing people, avalanche victims, and survivors at disaster sites, and in cadaver detection. Dogs are also skilled in finding missing pets and other animals including locating endangered mammals and birds for conservation such as scat-detection of bears, kit foxes, wolves, and even tigers and seals. In the field of medicine, dogs are the experts in detecting some types of cancer and alerting humans prior to the onset of a seizure or hypoglycemic attack. Dogs are also important for detecting illegal drugs, explosives, and accelerants in arson cases. Dogs can detect substances at a far lower\n\nconcentration than humans and they can locate a target scent while ignoring non-target scents in search activities (Browne et al., 2006).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 145, "chunk_index": 127, "id": "80d03016-789a-4705-88e8-ff3fbb7f3ee0", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs’ scent-sensitivity is far beyond our human ability to perceive the world through smell. We cannot and do not experience the world as dogs do. Therefore, it is not surprising that we have a hard time understanding what it’s like to be a dog. “How Do Dogs “See” with Their Noses?” A video created by Dr. Alexandra Horowitz (2015) explains how dog intelligence in scent-detection is superior to human intelligence in scent-detection. Dogs can “see backward and forward in time.” Scent trails proceed and linger after a dog or person passes, providing dogs with information about the past and providing them with information about the future to literally sense who may have passed and who may be approaching. Humans have no intelligence or ability in this type of awareness or learning from the environment. Dogs have several hundred million scent receptor cells compared to approximately just five million scent receptors in the human brain. As a result, a much greater proportion of the dog brain is dedicated to information processing of odor profiles when compared to the human brain. The vomeronasal organ in dogs detects hormones that humans and other animals release into the body and air that alerts dogs to both the emotional\n\nstate and health status of others. Dr. Horowitz reports that “Stress and anger manifest as a cloud of hormones” to our dogs!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 146, "chunk_index": 128, "id": "0a6ea8c6-027a-47e8-a51b-129f8c9c9196", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "Intelligence evolved as an adaptation to solve evolutionarily novel problems. Intelligence comes in many forms. For example, the standard human IQ test predicts the likelihood of success in college through reading comprehension, mathematical, and analytical skills measures. In addition, some people have enhanced athletic intelligence, some have emotional intelligence, and some have powerful memories or navigational skills, while others are mechanically inclined geniuses. However, we should not make the mistake of assessing dog intelligence by human measures because when we do, we miss out on celebrating how intelligence actually manifests in our captivatingly unique dogs.\n\nA wolf’s skills needed for survival and thriving cannot be fairly compared to the skills needed by humans. Our dogs are domesticated wolves. Being socialized to humans, dogs are generally more exploratory with less fear of novel objects, known as decreased neophobia. Decreased neophobia has led to a correlation between human socialization and problem-solving abilities (Reid, 2019). Dr. Brian Hare, a leading scientist in animal cognition, tells us in The Genius of Dogs: How Dogs are Smarter Than You Think, “Learning is just one type of intelligence” (Hare & Woods, 2013). Hare’s Dognition study reveals that compared to other mammals, dogs are at a genius level in comprehending and at signaling others with body language and vocalizations, learning new words, understanding their audiences’ perspective, copying other actions, and recruiting help from others.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 129, "id": "89e63b60-2a6c-4f7b-af82-79399b789bef", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "Enhanced environments increase problem-solving abilities and positive social interactions too. Environmentally enriching interactive games using brain skills such as, finding hidden food and puzzle-feeders can increase a sense of general well-being in our dogs in what is often a sterile environment from their point of view.\n\nBEST FORCE-FREE PRACTICES FROM THE HIERARCHY OF DOG NEEDS\n\norce-free training is safer, more effective, and more reliable than technique. The aversive and professional transparency in advertising, deliver the optimum dog-friendly care and training that our dogs need and deserve. Learning force-free training is also easier for pet parents. We now know that the fear of pain is traumatizing for our dogs, just as it would be for us. The chronic stress of never knowing when punishment may occur creates distrust of humans in dogs and leads to bites. The so-called “balanced trainer” who practices a mix of punishment and rewards is a contradiction of terms. Alternating rewards with punishment creates distress in our dogs and has been shown to interfere with learning and relationships and may be a cause of aggression.\n\nAll behavioral terms and activities are rooted in scientific definitions for practical usage, so everyone involved in academic discussion is on the same page. Leaders in each field of study define new concepts resulting in a collectively agreed upon definition known as an operational definition. Scientifically and operationally defining force-free dog training establishes common ground and sets the stage for educating and teaching the broader community on emerging best practices within the field.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 130, "id": "fa7d434c-7c66-4303-aa92-5b8833ce361d", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "Pet Professional Guild (PPG) and The Hierarchy of Dog Needs formally adopted the term Force-free/Force-Free. The Pet Professional Guild Mission Guidelines explains behavior modification techniques appropriate for animal care and training. Do Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook, and the Do No Harm Dog Training social media group, among others, also define force-free similarly. Force-free means using methods preventing physical and emotional suffering in dogs in the moment and for the long-term.\n\nImportantly, force-free dog training is defined by the training practice itself, and by the intent motivating the training practice. We ask, “Does the training cause physical or psychological harm to the dog? Is the trainer dominating or intimidating the dog? Is the trainer using forceful or fear- based tactics to gain compliance?”\n\nPPG recognizes, however, “Any definition can never be so expansive and explicit that every possible situation is addressed” (2020b, para. 3). In the context of the PPG Guiding Principles framework, physical force is defined as “any intentional physical act against a pet that causes psychological or physical pain, harm or damage to the pet” (Pet Professional Guild, 2020b, para. 4).\n\nIs the absence of physical and psychological pain and/or the threat of it Manages and resolves the difficult problems of our dogs in a systematically positive manner Monitors the willingness of our dogs at each step during training before moving forward Avoids making our dogs feel worried or uncomfortable", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 150, "chunk_index": 131, "id": "0bcaaa26-40fa-4d0e-a472-a9a7b1bb8068", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "The priorities, best practices and the exclusions define what force-free training is and in addition what it is not. Force-free training is categorically and qualitatively different and unique from traditional or so-called “balance training” by virtue of the operational definition of what we do and what we do not do as described below.\n\nNo shock No prong No choke No pain No fear No dominance or intimidation No compulsion methods No physical force No hitting with any object, including rolled up towels No throwing items No swatting with a newspaper No shaking cans of coins or rocks in our dogs’ sensitive ears No spraying water in the face or body No yelling\n\nNurturing biological health and psychological well-being enhances emotional stability, social skills, and cognitive abilities by meeting our dogs’ real needs. The Hierarchy of Dog Needs describes the emotional and behavioral modification methods that force-free behavior modification consultants and trainers endorse. Effectively using these techniques serves to increase, decrease, and redirect behavior, and also to change emotional responses. We set the stage for optimal well-being by using force-free training, and eliminating the potentiality for fear, stress, and aggression.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 151, "chunk_index": 132, "id": "d1da186d-330d-4887-9799-3d5f7acac163", "word_count": 189, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 245 } }, { "page_content": "According to an article in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior, “Good Trainers: How to Identify One” (Overall et al., 2006), shock collars, prong collars, and choke collars are at the top of the list of equipment that causes anxiety, fear, and arousal, and may contribute to an increase in aggression. Polsky (2000) describes severe attacks on humans by dogs who were being trained or maintained on electric shock fences, euphemistically marketed as invisible fences. The promise of fast results may appeal to pet parents. Guaranteed quick results are often touted as a benefit of using punitive dog training methods. However, punitive training is akin to putting a small Band–aid® on a deep wound that is likely to cause an infection.\n\nUsing a shock collar and later deciding to try positive reinforcement is detrimental to your dog’s emotional well-being. The damage done by the shock treatment is sadly, often irreversible. Research shows that one-trial (one shock) learned fear lasts a lifetime. American neuroscientist, Dr. Joseph LeDoux (2011) explains it in simple terms everyone can easily understand:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 152, "chunk_index": 133, "id": "5320e4c7-c007-48a8-a7c7-99833d15b239", "word_count": 175, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 227 } }, { "page_content": "We’ll start with the simple behavior that we use when we study all of this, and it is Pavlovian Fear Conditioning. So, a rat is placed in a small chamber, and the rat hears a sound, and if nothing happens the rat begins to ignore the sound, but if the sound is paired with electric shock - and you only have to do this one time - then the rat develops a fear of the sound because it predicts the electric shock. And this becomes a lifelong fear. As long as you present the sound to the rat again, as long as the rat lives, the rat will be afraid of this sound unless you’ve done things during the rat’s life to weaken that stimulus. But even if you weaken it through, for example, extinction processes, the fear always comes back. The fear is almost, more or less, permanent and is a characteristic of the animal for the rest of its life in one way or another [emphasis added]. (LeDoux, 2011).\n\nThe widely cited Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) study measured the behavioral and physiological impact on dogs when shock collars were used during training compared to the impact on dogs when no shock was used. This study demonstrated that dog welfare was negatively impacted with training conducted by professional shock collar trainers (The Department for Environmental Food and Rural Affairs, 2010). BanShockCollars.ca (2007) provides an updated list of numerous scientific studies supporting the movement to ban shock collars worldwide. There is a fast-growing list of countries where these devices are now illegal. The No Shock, No Prong, No Choke logo is a free download on The Hierarchy of Dog Needs website and is currently available in 15 languages.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 153, "chunk_index": 134, "id": "5e4dc310-a7df-496f-aeaf-fba61c3bb5dd", "word_count": 292, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 379 } }, { "page_content": "Being kind to your dog is good science. Wonderfully, barring neurological damage, all behavior is effectively modified using The Hierarchy of Dog Needs Best Force-free Practices. The force-free training and Do No Harm Management and Learning methods are not listed in any particular order. The force-free best practices methods listed below may be used in any order or combination to address training problems:\n\nThe first step in any successful behavior modification program is visiting a gentle veterinarian to rule out any possible organic cause, pain, disease, or condition, for a sudden or chronic change in behavior.\n\nNote: Parts 2, 3 and 4 of this handbook provides examples of each training method for many of the most common and the most difficult behavioral problems, such as housetraining, excessive barking, jumping, aggression, fear, and separation anxiety.\n\n“To rearrange environment. Remove or distance triggers. e.g., baby gates, dog-friendly fencing, puppy-proofing” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].\n\nThe benefits of effective management are often under-rated. Management prevents problems and undesirable habits from developing. Typically, it is more difficult to modify behavior once it becomes a habit than preventing it before it is repeatedly rehearsed. Preventing your dog from making undesirable decisions by managing the environment sets your dog up for success in training.\n\nPuppy-proofing your home, yard, and garden makes the environment safe for your puppy, preventing bad habits from developing and preventing", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 153, "chunk_index": 135, "id": "7bdbb80b-f37d-4c09-9aca-79705f16bbfe", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "property loss. As responsible pet parents, creating a safe environment for your dog is much like baby-proofing a home for a child.\n\nSometimes the easiest answer for a behavior problem is managing the situation. Containment as a management technique may prevent frustration for both your dog and you. For example, you could spend ten years teaching your dog to stay in the yard and not chase the wildlife your dog sees in the canyon beyond your property. It would take a great deal of effort and time, moreover, it would not be reliable. If the right rabbit crossed your dog’s path, your dog may take chase and never look back. Alternately, you could build a fence to solve the problem with management. We very frequently want to choose the method that is easiest for all.\n\nPantry doors. Use a hairband or plastic tie to secure pantry doors and low-lying kitchen cabinets. Use an adhesive note to remind others to close the doors. Use a weight or spring so the doors close on its own. Toilet. Keep the bathroom door and the toilet lid closed: use small adhesive notes to remind guests. (Keep the toilet free of toxic chemicals). Cats. Place x-pens around the cat areas to prevent litter munching by your dog. Separate the dog and cat for mealtime to avoid competition and swapping of food.\n\n“To increase, decrease, eliminate or redirect behavior: change events or Associations (triggers) that happen before the behavior” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 155, "chunk_index": 136, "id": "2a4023b3-2732-44d2-89e2-451823ef4795", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Changing your dog’s environment can prevent or solve problems. An antecedent is the event, activity, stimulus, or trigger immediately preceding a behavior. In the functional analysis model of behavior modification, the Antecedent is the A in ABC, B is the Behavior and C is the Consequence. Antecedents can be manipulated to either encourage desirable behaviors or to decrease undesirable behaviors. Classically conditioned respondent behavior is controlled by antecedents as opposed to being controlled by consequences as are operantly conditioned behaviors.\n\nIn How Dogs Learn, Burch and Bailey (1999, p. 157–160) list six methods of antecedent control that modify behavior:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 155, "chunk_index": 137, "id": "de1e2d95-b0d0-48c3-81fb-9a63515036d6", "word_count": 99, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 128 } }, { "page_content": "Remove the trigger for an undesirable behavior. Example: If your dog barks at other dogs passing by the window, cover the window or use a baby-gate to block the dog’s view out of the window. Add a cue for a desirable behavior. Example: If during a walk, your dog fixates on another dog, call your dog’s name to distract and redirect your dog back to you before a bark and lunge occur. Add an establishing operation to increase a desirable behavior. Example: If your dog does not want to leave the dog park after a recall, play with your dog for a short time after “Come,” and then leash your dog and leave the park. The play session is the added establishing operation. Remove an establishing operation to decrease an undesirable behavior. Example: If your dog typically jumps on guests after rushing to answer the door with you, first let your dog calm down outside of the range of guests. The establishing operation of rushing to the door is removed. Later, allow your dog to say “hello” when your guests are seated. Rushing to the door is the removed establishing operation. Decrease the effort needed to engage in a desirable behavior. Decreasing the effort needed to practice desirable behaviors increases the probability that desired behaviors will occur. This makes desirable behaviors an easy choice for your dog. Example: If your dog whines during your dinner, feed your dog before you eat and provide an interactive food toy for your dog to enjoy during dinner. Increase the effort needed to engage in an undesirable behavior. Increasing the effort needed to practice undesirable behaviors decreases the probability that the undesirable behavior will occur. This makes the undesirable behavior less appealing. Example: If your dog acts like every inch of a walk is a “sniffari,” walk in the", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 156, "chunk_index": 138, "id": "c25c2464-4651-40e2-a79b-83440e9f1423", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "d provide an interactive food toy for your dog to enjoy during dinner. Increase the effort needed to engage in an undesirable behavior. Increasing the effort needed to practice undesirable behaviors decreases the probability that the undesirable behavior will occur. This makes the undesirable behavior less appealing. Example: If your dog acts like every inch of a walk is a “sniffari,” walk in the middle of the sidewalk and quicken your pace.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 156, "chunk_index": 139, "id": "1f5244a9-fc3b-48ca-8775-1f7bc505e561", "word_count": 72, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 93 } }, { "page_content": "“To increase behavior: Rewards for desired behavior using capturing, luring, shaping, and modeling” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].\n\nPositive Reinforcement is a procedure or experience where the frequency or intensity of a desired behavior increases or continues because the behavior was previously associated with a reward such as food, toys, praise, or love (Overall, 2013). Positive reinforcement increases the likelihood a behavior will be performed in the future because a reward was given after a behavior was practiced in the past. Therein, the frequency or intensity, that is, the strength of the desired behavior is increased through positive reinforcement.\n\nA positive reinforcer is typically something your dog seeks out. A reinforcer must increase the frequency, intensity, or duration of a behavior, or maintain a behavior as the consequence of something being added, that is, a reward. Thus, the reinforcer is in the eye of beholder. Keep in mind that what you think will be reinforcing as opposed to what your dog actually finds reinforcing may be two different things. For example, if your dog does not find tennis balls attractive, playing a game of fetch will most likely not", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 157, "chunk_index": 140, "id": "85e052b0-6b7d-4788-a7dd-32048942b80e", "word_count": 194, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 252 } }, { "page_content": "be reinforcing, and fetching will not increase in frequency. The key is to figure out what your dog likes best and use those things as rewards in teaching your dog so your dog can easily understand what you like. If your dog loves cheese, using low-fat cheese as a food reinforcer can speed learning and training by increasing the frequency of the behaviors you find desirable. Positive reinforcement is associated with the release of dopamine in the brain, known as the pleasure chemical, one of the feel-good chemicals: the others being endorphins, oxytocin, and serotonin.\n\nPositive reinforcement is one of the ideological foundations and the preferred operant treatment for learning new behaviors in force-free training.\n\nPositive reinforcement is one of the four quadrants and helps explain voluntary behavior. In his classic research tome, The Behavior of Organisms (Skinner, 1938), American psychologist, B. F. Skinner (1904– 1990), defined operant learning as experiences where behavior is either strengthened or weakened by the consequences of that behavior. Skinner’s behaviorism was devoted entirely to the study of responses to stimulus in observable behavior rather than any internal processes that drive behavior (Schultz & Schultz, 2008). Operant learning is also called consequence learning, contingency learning, instrumental learning, response learning, and R-S learning (Chance, 2014).\n\nThe founder of the Pet Professional Guild, Niki Tudge, explains operant", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 141, "id": "ff9dcf7b-deba-4b80-9f47-c6214bb23e37", "word_count": 220, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 286 } }, { "page_content": "With operant learning, new behaviors are learned, and existing behaviors are modified based on the past consequences of doing them. Behaviors that are reinforced are repeated and behaviors that produce aversive consequences are suppressed. Operant behaviors help the learner control their environment and with positive consequences empowerment takes place. (N. Tudge, personal communication, 2015).\n\nNote: The term reward learning is seen not only in scholarly journal literature on learning but even more so in neuroscience scholarly literature\n\non reward pathways and biological scholarly literature (Chance, 2014, p. 133).\n\nDifferential Reinforcement (DR) of DRI, DRA, DRO, DRL\n\n“To redirect, decrease, or increase behavior: Reward for preferred incompatible, alternate, other, or change in the rate of behavior” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 142, "id": "69980a89-3079-45c8-a8c9-a16d591f460b", "word_count": 125, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 162 } }, { "page_content": "Differential Reinforcement is one of the most useful operant behavior modification tools in the force-free toolbox. This is a type of operant training where some behaviors are systematically reinforced while others are not, combining positive reinforcement for an appropriate response and extinction of a previously reinforced behavior simultaneously (Pam, 2013, Chance, 2014). That is, differential reinforcement increases the probability of the frequency a desirable behavior while at the same time it decreases the probability of an undesirable behavior (Burch & Bailey, 1999). DR redirects the unwanted behavior. When choosing a differential reinforcement protocol decide first whether your goal is decreasing the frequency of the behavior, such as excessive barking, or replacing one behavior with another, such as sitting instead of jumping on you and your guests. Successive approximation, or shaping is a form of differential reinforcement (Skinner, 1953). Differential reinforcement is a type of operant counterconditioning (Overall, 2013).\n\nIncompatible, Alternate, Other and Lower Rate Reinforcement\n\nEach type of differential reinforcement (DR) has varying rates of effectiveness in different contexts and with different dogs. Here are four types of differential reinforcement: DRI, DRA, DRO, and DRL.\n\nDifferential Reinforcement for an Incompatible behavior (DRI) DRI reduces the frequency of an undesirable behavior by reinforcing a new replacement behavior that is incompatible. This is one of the most effective means of differentially reinforcing your dog. Your dog is unable to do two things at the same time. The beauty of DRI is that it captures the desired behavior while preventing the undesired", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 159, "chunk_index": 143, "id": "643f5559-e4c8-47a9-b5ba-dd25bfe84e94", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "behavior at the same time. Example: When greeting people, reward your dog for Sit, Stand, or Targeting your hand as desirable behavior replacements to jumping on people. (See Chapter 16, Greetings, and No Jump.) Differential Reinforcement for an Alternate behavior (DRA) DRA reduces the frequency of an undesirable behavior by reinforcing a different and alternate, but not incompatible behavior. DRA demonstrates to your dog that desirable behaviors result in rewards, while undesirable behaviors do not. Example: For barking, reward your dog for an alternate behavior such as lying down instead of barking. This teaches that lying down earns the reinforcement whereas barking does not. Your dog can still bark while lying down but is less likely to do so. Differential Reinforcement for Other behavior (DRO) (DRO) change in the rate of behavior or no undesired behavior in a predetermined amount of time (Psychology Dictionary Professional Reference, 2019). DRO reduces the frequency of an unwanted behavior by providing periodic reinforcements only if the dog does something different than the undesirable behavior for a given amount of time, intensity, or duration. DRO is also known as omission training procedure. Example: When your dog whines at the dinner table, reward your dog every five minutes for lying in bed or playing with a toy. This teaches that lying in bed or playing with a toy is more reinforcing than whining. Differential Reinforcement for Lower frequency behavior (DRL) DRL is the lesser rate, that is, lesser frequency of an undesired behavior in a predetermined amount of time. This is also called differential reinforcement of long response times dependent upon the interval between responses being greater than the minimum. DRL reduces the frequency of an undesirable", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 144, "id": "cee73dc0-0278-41d4-8be8-ff857626203c", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "y is more reinforcing than whining. Differential Reinforcement for Lower frequency behavior (DRL) DRL is the lesser rate, that is, lesser frequency of an undesired behavior in a predetermined amount of time. This is also called differential reinforcement of long response times dependent upon the interval between responses being greater than the minimum. DRL reduces the frequency of an undesirable behavior by reinforcing when the undesirable behavior is practiced less often. Example: Reward your dog every five minutes for barking just a couple of times, instead of incessant barking. If your dog barks more than twice, reset your clock. This teaches your dog that low frequency barking is rewarded.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 145, "id": "019a4ab1-3199-4c4e-ae4b-5acdf2648348", "word_count": 109, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 141 } }, { "page_content": "Dog behaviour expert and driving force behind the UK Dog Behaviour and Training Charter, Andrew Hale, cautions, “Operant solutions should be a tool in the toolkit: they shouldn’t be the toolkit. We want to reinforce something that is innately useful to the dog. If we just switch one behavior for a different behavior even when using positive reinforcement, we risk ignoring the need for relief-seeking that prompted the original behavior” (Hale, 2021).\n\nNote: Ignoring behavior as the singular treatment for the purpose of extinction is typically effective only in laboratory settings where other confounding variables are controlled. In real life, however, intervening variables such as other reinforcements in the environment affect behavior. For example, if your dog jumps up on you and you ignore your dog by turning your back, your dog may be content in jumping at your back to touch you. Perhaps you did not turn quite fast enough, or the movement of turning away further aroused your dog. Importantly, we do not purposely use extinction techniques alone in force-free training. Extinction alone often causes frustration and stress for your dog.\n\n“To change emotion: Create new associations” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 146, "id": "75b39651-cfc8-4632-9caf-1b456c873144", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "is also known as Pavlovian respondent conditioning and is based upon associations or the bonding of two stimuli. This type of learning occurs when a neutral stimulus (such as the sound of a bell) is paired with another stimulus (food). The sound of the bell becomes associated and reflexively connected with the delivery of food. Therefore, a dog who previously salivated for food alone (unconditioned response) will salivate at the sound of the bell, without the presentation of food (conditioned response). One event becomes a reliable predictor of another event occurring, teaching the dog that the first event predicts the second event. The dog learns to have an anticipatory reaction to the first event.\n\nPavlov’s work demonstrates that hormonal glands and reflexes govern involuntary behavior. Animals experience many of these events as emotions (Chance, 2014). Increased heart rate, increased respiration rate, and even immune system responses are reflexes. Emotions are changes\n\ninvoluntary; however, associative learning can modify an emotion called a Conditioned Emotional Response (CER). Conditioned “reflexes” are not inborn but rather learned. Learned reflexes may vary dependent upon conditions and are subject to behavior modification (Chance, 2014). Additionally, Pavlov demonstrated that even higher mental processes can be described in physiological terms (Schultz & Schultz, 2008).\n\nCreating Positive Associations and Modifying Negative Associations\n\nThe founder of the Pet Professional Guild, Niki Tudge, explains respondent learning for us here:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 147, "id": "4e4e798d-2833-499a-a8c9-2b2f9f03d3c2", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "Learning occurs with both respondent and operant behavior but what is learned during each one is very different. First, let’s look at respondent learning, also known as classical conditioning or Pavlovian conditioning. With respondent conditioning new eliciting stimuli, not new behaviors, are learned. This learning occurs through the process of repeated and close pairing of a neutral stimulus with an existing conditioned stimulus. This is the stimulus- stimulus-response (S-S-R) learning, and it is this process that accounts for responses through associations such as the elicitation of salivating at the sound of a tin of food opening. It is also through this S-S-R process that emotional reactions are triggered such as a change in heart rate. In this same way, fear or calmness are elicited by conditioned stimuli (N. Tudge, personal communication, 2015).\n\nFrom A History of Modern Psychology (Schultz & Schultz, 2008, p. 287), we learn Pavlov also tested buzzers, lights, whistles, tones, bubbling water, and metronomes with the same results. Pavlov, in his own words taught us that, “Footfalls of a passer-by, chance conversations in neighboring rooms, slamming of a door, or vibration of a passing van, street cries, even shadows cast into the windows of the room,” are all variables that change the nature of the association learned (Pavlov, 1927).\n\nExample: The leash becomes associated with going for a walk. This is why your dog gets excited when you pull out the leash.\n\nExample: Crinkling the bag of dog treats becomes associated with treats, so crinkling the bag of dog treats can be used as a Recall cue all by itself!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 162, "chunk_index": 148, "id": "387bdb20-1c94-4539-855f-27096a6764ec", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "learning of new associations, and Classical Conditioning, Counterconditioning, the learning of alternate associations for previously learned associations, are a primary method in molding and modifying\n\nbehavior in the field of force-free dog training. Counterconditioning reverses the effects of unwanted conditioned responses by teaching new associations (Chance, 2014).\n\nExample: Counterconditioning creates a new association to an already established one. If a previously learned association paired the sound of the doorbell with strangers appearing at the door, teach a new association pairing the sound of the doorbell with something your dog loves. For example, if your dog barks at the door when the doorbell rings, countercondition the sound of the doorbell by pairing it with hot dog bits delivered on the back patio. With multiple pairings, your dog learns to respond to the sound of the doorbell by happily running to the back patio for hot dogs!\n\nMultiple pairings are typically required but not in the case of learning fears. Fear can be learned in just one single exposure called one-trial learning. For example, in shock training, dogs may associate people, places or things with being shocked. Unrelated or unintended associations, such as a child walking by your dog can become an unexpected, an unintended, and unwanted learned association. The dog may now fear children because the dog associates children with being shocked.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 162, "chunk_index": 149, "id": "7b37f014-fc3a-4ee2-8617-ca5094d95c40", "word_count": 221, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 287 } }, { "page_content": "The classic research study known as The Little Albert Experiment, demonstrated the power of classical conditioning and how fears may generalize by associating a rat (Neutral Stimulus, NS) with a loud bang (Unconditioned Stimulus, UC). A baby (Albert) who was previously unafraid of a rat was conditioned to become afraid of rats (Conditioned Response, CR) and other furry animals by pairing/associating the rat with a loud noise. This breakthrough research showed that the emotion of fear is learned, and generalized to other similar objects or any stimuli present (Watson & Rayner, 1920).\n\nExample of learned fear by association in dog training. If, your puppy is frightened or attacked by another dog on the first night of training class, your puppy may not want to go back into the building and may develop a fear of dogs that may last a lifetime. The puppy (or adult dog) has associated the building with an aggressive dog and generalized that fear to other dogs, just as Little Albert generalized his fear of a rat to other furry animals.\n\n“To decrease emotional response: Develop a systematic graduated exposure therapy plan” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 163, "chunk_index": 150, "id": "5f1eddf5-0a1a-46c2-b1ab-206d46fe595d", "word_count": 196, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 254 } }, { "page_content": "Building upon Pavlov’s research in counterconditioning, psychiatrist, Joseph Wolpe, developed the process of Systematic Desensitization; a treatment for fear and anxiety disorders used to treat human patients suffering (Chance, 2014). Systematic desensitization is a type of counterconditioning and is the gold standard in treating fear and aggression in dogs when applied carefully, slowly, and systematically. This treatment exposes the dog to a realistic fear stimuli, but at a much lower intensity. Systematic desensitization involves overcoming fears gradually while ensuring the dog is free from anxiety at each step before proceeding to the next step (Burch & Bailey, 1999).\n\n1. Relaxation 2. A hierarchy ranging from the least or easiest, to the most problematic or intense version of the trigger stimulus\n\nIn practice, we expose a dog to a sub-threshold version of the trigger where there is no observable response, then follow immediately by a positive, high value, counterconditioning stimulus (reward/reinforcement). The intensity of the trigger is gradually heightened as long as there is no observable response, such as body language displays. The procedure is\n\nrepeated with incremental increases in intensity as long as there is no observable and Counterconditioning Techniques.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 164, "chunk_index": 151, "id": "5fc611e5-4585-453a-b4ef-000fe37e0640", "word_count": 190, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 247 } }, { "page_content": "Dr. Karen Overall (2013, p. 581–584) created a “Relaxation Protocol” as a foundation for desensitization and counterconditioning where the physical changes associated with relaxation are rewarded. First, the dog learns to perfectly focus on the pet parent or trainer for 15 seconds, preferably lying down. Then, in a slowly, graduating format, duration, distance and distractions are increased. The protocol teaches dogs to accept everything from the handler answering the doorbell, to the absence of the handler for a short time. The dog is rewarded every second or third task. If signs of anxiety or stress are observed, the pet parent or trainer immediately returns to an easier step where the dog was successful, showing no anxiety, or the they both take a break from training.\n\nThe combined terms, Desensitization and Counterconditioning, referred to as D&CC, are frequently used in concert in force-free dog training. In desensitization training, the dog learns not to react to stimuli that slowly and incrementally increases in intensity. In counterconditioning the dog learns a different emotional response, and may learn “response substitution” i.e., a different behavioral response than the current reaction to the stimulus. This combination of techniques may result in both emotional and behavioral modification.\n\nIn the dog trainers’ classic, resource guarding treatment book Mine (2002), author Jean Donaldson constructs step-by-step desensitization hierarchies for food, object, and location guarding, handling and the generalization of counterconditioned responses to other items and people.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 165, "chunk_index": 152, "id": "8e8e96e4-9faf-4a3e-8306-dffdd901d39e", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Flooding is considered the antithesis (opposite) of desensitization. Flooding pushes the dog over-threshold resulting in possibly serious and damaging results, often making the subject worse rather than better.\n\n“To increase, decrease or redirect behavior: Use a high probability (preferred) behavior to reinforce a low probability behavior” (Michaels, 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].\n\nPreferred Behavior Can Reinforce Less Preferred Behavior\n\nThe Premack Principle method of learning uses a high probability (preferred) behavior to reinforce a low probability (not preferred) behavior. David Premack (1959, 1965) discovered that a reinforcing stimulus, such as food, could also be seen as the behavior of eating food. Understanding the Premack Principle is commonly illustrated by a parent who tells the child to eat their peas first (low probability/less preferred) and the child may eat dessert afterwards (high probability/preferred behavior), that is, one behavior can reinforce another behavior. Engaging in one behavior can be used as a reinforcer for increasing the frequency of another behavior (Chance, 2014). Eating dessert is contingent upon eating peas first. Here’s an example most people are familiar with that you may already be using— A hungry dog has a high probability for eating treats, but a lower probability of sitting, making the opportunity of eating treats dependent upon sitting and resulting in the reinforcement and increased frequency of\n\nsitting. However, the Premack Principle is not dependent upon a physiological function or primary and secondary reinforcers but on behavior reinforcing behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 166, "chunk_index": 153, "id": "77e05080-cbe6-44ca-9607-27baadecdf01", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "Any behavior your dog enthusiastically seeks, such as: opening the door, playing fetch, sitting on the couch, or walking to the hydrant to read “pee mail,” may be used as the reinforcer for performing a less preferred behavior first.\n\nA dog that loves to chase a ball only gets another throw when the dog brings the ball back directly to your feet first. If your dog prefers herding sheep rather than to “Coming” to you for a cheese treat, teach your dog that herding sheep is contingent upon “Coming” to you. In other words, a non-preferred activity is reinforcing because it precedes engagement in a preferred activity.\n\nSocial Learning—Also Known as Observational Learning (Bandura, 1965)\n\n“To increase, decrease or redirect behavior: Use a dog or human model as (Michaels, sample behavior. e.g., 2015/2020). From The Hierarchy of Dog Needs [Pyramid Graphic].\n\nDogs learn new behaviors by observing another dog or a person. Social learning is learning from observing the activity and the consequences of that activity from the behavior of a model (Chance, 2014). Social learning helps the learner either acquire similar behaviors, or to try something different if the model’s behavior does not result in a resource or in acquiring a new skill.\n\nImitation, Emulation, Social Facilitation and Emotional Contagion\n\nImitative learning occurs when the learner uses the same method observed and achieves the same result. For example, a dog learns to open a door by pushing down on the handle with a paw after observing a human opening a door by pushing down on the handle with a hand.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 167, "chunk_index": 154, "id": "c1efa769-c84a-47f8-9954-0d6e5a4e2ae9", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "Emulation learning occurs when the learner uses a different method to\n\nSocial facilitation learning occurs when the presence of others enhances behavior (Zentall, 1996). For example, if the lead dog in a dog team pulls to the left, all dogs will pull to the left. The dogs may also run at a greater speed when on a team.\n\nEmotional contagion learning occurs when dogs mirror an emotional state, either intraspecies/conspecific (dog mirroring another dog) or interspecies/heterospecifics (dog mirroring their human). This may have either a positive or a negative effect on the dog. Additionally, there may be long-term stress synchronization between a dog and the dog’s human in the home, resulting in the human mental condition affecting the mental condition of their dog.\n\nSocial learning may be especially useful when helping a fearful dog. For example, by having the fearful dog observe a confident dog enter into a swimming pool. This approach is known as conspecific learning. Using a teacher-dog as a model rival also motivates a dog to try a similar behavior such as fetching.\n\nRecent research in social learning includes that of Dr. Adam Miklosi of Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest, Hungary (Miklosi & Kubinyi, 2016). The proposition is a technique called Do As I Do, and teaches the instruction, “Do It”, as a rule rather than a cue (Fuguzza, 2014). The researchers reported that the Do As I Do technique is useful for teaching a dog to interact with an object, which may be of some importance to service", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 168, "chunk_index": 155, "id": "402dfffa-e9ef-4578-bdd6-65778489bbfe", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "dog training (London, 2015). Additional research is needed by independent investigators to further demonstrate validity and reliability.\n\nnew dog romping about the house provides constant entertainment and unconditional love. However, be prepared to train, exercise, and care for the puppy or rescue dog through adolescence, adulthood, and old age. Adding a dog to your family is a lifetime commitment. The decision to bring a dog into your family is a serious responsibility requiring planning, forethought, and commitment. Once you fall in love, it is often too late to turn back, so plan carefully and choose wisely.\n\nTo provide a proper forever home, choose a dog or puppy that fits in as closely as possible with your family, home, and lifestyle. Your dog will have a distinctive personality and quirks making their own character part of your dog’s unique charm.\n\nChoose a dog whose personality and genetic traits are a good match with all the members of your family, particularly the primary caretaker. Choose a dog that is the right size for you. If you love lap dogs, a large or giant breed may be too big to sit on your lap, although Great Danes have figured out how to do it. Choose a dog whose activity level matches your family’s activity level. If you are a couch potato, a herding breed will not likely lay around the house with you. If you are looking for an easy-going house pet who is a social butterfly, dogs who have specifically been bred to guard may not suit you and may be the wrong choice.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 169, "chunk_index": 156, "id": "e44884fd-0c80-47d8-a614-9a8d12abb312", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Whatever dog you do choose, remember you are making a life-long promise to not only care for your dog and meet their needs, but to train them gently using Do No Harm methods. A 10+ year commitment should be made thoughtfully, not impulsively.\n\nAll puppies are adorable so make a list and stick to your list of\n\nMust have traits Flexible traits Do not want traits\n\nThere are many far-reaching factors to examine when choosing a dog. These considerations will help ensure you find the best fit for you and your family.\n\nAge Size Activity level Predisposition to medical problems Hair length, shedding, and grooming maintenance needs Average longevity Breed\n\nLearn how to care for a new dog before you bring one home, just as you would prepare for the arrival of a new baby into your home. Before You Get Your Puppy, by pioneering puppy expert, Dr. Ian Dunbar, DVM, PhD\n\n(2001) is an informative free resource you can download to help you prepare your family and home for a new dog.\n\nAll breeds can be wonderful or problematic with children. Successful interactions between dogs and children are dependent upon both the dog and the child receiving proper training for appropriate interactions with each other. Pet parents must remain vigilant and actively supervise any dog- child interactions with any child under the age of 5 years old.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 173, "chunk_index": 157, "id": "5bab5417-a524-4d8a-989d-58d4b66a59fa", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "Shelters and rescue groups are wonderful sources to help connect you with your forever companion—and what a great feeling you will have when you provide a loving home to an abandoned dog and very possibly save a life! Adoptable dogs are most likely already neutered or spayed and have up to date vaccinations and microchips. Although puppies are extremely and impossibly cute, a house-trained adult dog may make an easier transition into your home life. A senior dog can be a wonderful addition to the right home. Local and breed-specific adoption agencies, shelters, and rescue groups have thousands of good dogs of every breed, size, age, and description who need forever homes.\n\nCheck out Petfinder.com (2020). Research the rescue or shelter and try to find a rescue group or facility that has met not only your dog’s biological needs, but is aware of a dog’s emotional, social, and cognitive needs. Find a rescue that supports Do No Harm/force-free training methods and that already uses The Hierarchy of Dog Needs when possible. Adopting during the holiday season is especially popular and many shelters and rescues now encourage families to do so. However, puppies are a lifetime commitment. Do not give a puppy as a gift to someone who may not be prepared or want to provide a loving forever home.\n\nThe first quantitative evidence demonstrating that puppy mills produce puppies with fears, phobias, learning deficits, and a generalized lack of resilience resulting in a seriously impaired ability to cope with normal stressors, was published in Applied Animal Behavior (McMillan et al., 2011).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 175, "chunk_index": 158, "id": "9ba468b2-4a66-4ec3-8dcf-13d4cbc5d2c8", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "In the eye-opening report by Jeanine Kunkel-Jones, in “Puppy Mills: The Horrific Truth”, prospective pet parents are advised never to purchase a puppy from a pet store, unless the puppy can be directly traced to a reputable rescue and never purchase a puppy sight unseen off the Internet. According to Kunkel-Jones,\n\nPet parents who desire a physically sound, healthy, happy, sociable puppy are often severely and sadly disappointed after purchasing a puppy. When you purchase a puppy, you may unknowingly support cruel and inhumane treatment of dogs. While no puppy seller will admit to sourcing a puppy from a mill, the sad fact is that puppy mills are big business and a major supplier of puppies. Breeding is done regardless of genetic heath issues, both visible and invisible, from deformed body parts to elbow, knee, hip, and eye problems. Female dogs are typically bred every heat cycle until they can no longer produce, then they are killed, dumped, or sold. (Kunkel-Jones, 2019, para. 7, 9)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 176, "chunk_index": 159, "id": "ad8021c1-d351-469a-8e68-94e19c1a5e08", "word_count": 165, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 214 } }, { "page_content": "Health care is virtually non-existent, and most dogs spend their entire lives in dirty, cramped wire cages without any kind of enrichment. In many puppy mills, wire cages are stacked upon each other so waste falls onto the dogs below. Cages are often dirty, and food is of the poorest quality. Diseases and parasites are prevalent, including those communicable to humans. Proper veterinary care is an expense that eats into the bottom line. In addition, cruel practices such as medical procedures without anesthesia are practiced. Puppies are shipped all over the country, taken from mothers at an early age and often subjected to inhumane treatment in transport. When dogs exhaust their usefulness, they are rarely euthanized humanely. Shooting, drowning, and beating are common. The “lucky” ones are dumped at shelters. (Kunkel-Jones, 2019)\n\nAvoid supporting online puppy mills that typically ship a puppy to you. The first step is to verify the breeding protocols so you receive a healthy puppy. Just like people, the best predictors of puppy health are the longevity of parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents. Temperament is genetic and personality is the result of how that temperament is modified by socialization and the dog’s environment.\n\nThe best breeders raise puppies indoors around a variety of people, including strangers and children outside of the immediate family. The best breeders also safely introduce puppies to other puppy-friendly dogs outside\n\nof the litter and the home, so all puppies are given the necessary opportunities to become both people and dog friendly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 177, "chunk_index": 160, "id": "2b6e6186-b77c-43c4-9146-7efbb2eda677", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "By the time puppies are eight weeks old, they should have\n\nBeen handled every day Met dozens of people, including calm children Heard all sorts of noises on a low to medium level Met numerous vaccinated friendly dogs of all ages and breeds Had remedial housetraining, chew toy training, and separation anxiety prevention training\n\nVisit the mother dog and inspect the entire kennel grounds to be certain the facility meets your standards of kind treatment and cleanliness. Adult breeding dogs should never be fearful or aggressive. Be prepared to wait for a puppy. Good breeders will not release a puppy under eight weeks old and only breed a limited number of litters per year. If everything is in order, try to visit your puppy regularly from 4–8 weeks of age to nurture the human- animal bond and the bond with you.\n\nHere are some questions to ask prospective breeders:\n\nMay I visit the place where your puppies are bred? What can you tell me about the health of your dogs’ ancestors? Who bred each parent and how do I get in touch with the breeders? How did the grandparents die, and at what age? What are the temperaments and personalities of the parent dogs? What kind of socialization do you give your puppies? What do you feed them? Do you vaccinate them before they leave for their new homes?", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 178, "chunk_index": 161, "id": "ccd39297-5374-49af-8395-7f4b3e15ad60", "word_count": 229, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 297 } }, { "page_content": "A reliable breeder provides medical records of tests performed. You must receive the genetic testing records recommended by a national breed club for eyes, luxating patella, hip dysplasia, and other breed-related predispositions to disease. If the breeder has not posted their dogs’ certifications of health on their websites, request to see documentation of tests given. If appropriate paperwork cannot be provided, then immediately remove the breeder from your prospective list. Choosing a breeder who\n\ndoes not meet these basic requirements creates a substantial financial risk for you, but more importantly creates a situation where puppies may suffer greatly. These risks often result in long-term painful emotional experiences for the buyer. This is why a reputable breeder always provides health guarantees, encourage you to contact their veterinarian and other references, and offers documentation of several generations of pedigree lineage.\n\nNote: Having “papers” generally denotes American Kennel Club (AKC) registration and pedigree lineage but often has little to do with health testing.\n\nSee Pukka’s Promise: The Quest for Longer-Lived Dogs (Kerasote, 2014) for a brilliant account of the factors impacting dog longevity.\n\nRemember, contrary to popular myth, the pick of the litter is often the “middle” puppy rather than the largest, smallest, most active, or least active puppy. Here are some tips to help you select a puppy from a litter:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 178, "chunk_index": 162, "id": "f96ab15d-6eed-40a0-9ab2-f2be020cca19", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "Choose the puppy that all members of your family like and one who likes everyone in your family. Observe the puppies interacting with each other and with their mother for at least two hours to evaluate current behavior, elimination, and chew habits already in practice. Choose the puppy who can hold their own ground without pushing the other puppies around.\n\nThe first week at home will be the most crucial week in your dog’s life. Allow sufficient time for your dog to decompress, bond with you and become familiar with the neighborhood. The time needed will vary significantly dependent upon your dog’s unique needs. Don’t rush. Set up your Doggy Enrichment LandTM with all of your puppy’s wants and needs in mind. Doggy Enrichment Land, a containment set-up giving your puppy plenty of room for activities and pleasure can be used for many training needs, such as housetraining, safe greeting protocols, dog and baby/toddler separation, and separation anxiety treatment. Doggy Enrichment Land should never feel like a punishment to your dog but rather like a sanctuary and place where special, high value items are available. Your dog is learning about the world and developing habits each and every hour.\n\nBaby gates and x-pen Crates (cloth for your bed or metal) for overnight housetraining and emergencies after decompression. Crate training must be conditioned\n\nslowly and carefully to be certain the crate is not experienced as punishment. Enrichment items such as bully sticks, licking mat feeders, puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, plush squeaky toys, tennis balls, and a lure toy for play and exercise Mat or throw rug Orthopedic bed", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 179, "chunk_index": 163, "id": "cfa95e3d-e664-4199-aaad-2f98d345e9e6", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "ith the overwhelming variety of dog training methods and “training collars” advertised, it is often frustrating for pet parents to find a good trainer. The safest and most effective methods are based on force-free/pain-free/fear-free scientific principles. The consequences of using other methods include a high risk of psychological and medical injury, which are entirely unnecessary. No truly competent trainer recommends inflicting pain, fear, dominance or intimidation, shock, prong or choke collars.\n\nThe highly regarded and influential American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (2021b) takes an outspoken and principled stand on equipment and techniques that should be avoided in dog training. They report,\n\nAn appropriate trainer should avoid any use of training tools that involve pain (choke chains, prong collars, or electronic shock collars), intimidation (squirt bottles, shaker noise cans, compressed air cans, shouting, staring, or forceful manipulations such as “alpha rolls” or “dominance downs”), physical correction techniques (leash jerking, physical force), or\n\nflooding (“exposure”). The learner must always feel safe and have the ability to “opt out” of training sessions. (p. 2)\n\nRenowned veterinary behaviorist and editor of the Journal of Veterinary Behavior, Dr. Karen Overall, DVM, PhD, provides an outline in her article aptly titled, “Good trainers: How to identify one” (Overall et al., 2006). This easy-to-use reference guide was developed for pet parents, dog trainers, veterinarians, shelters, rescues, groomers, and other pet-related professionals. Pet parents can trust the quality of the trainer they are considering if that trainer adheres to the following guidelines as quoted from Overall below:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 183, "chunk_index": 164, "id": "90d0ede0-39ca-47e4-b5a2-b23ab44d9d52", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "a) Small bite-sized treats b) Leashes c) Flat collars d) Harnesses e) Praise f) Toys\n\nTools to Avoid: Cause anxiety, fear and may cause aggression. a) Shock collars/electric collars/e-collars/static collar b) Prong collars c) “Correction” collars d) Choke collars (sometimes euphemistically referred to as training\n\na) Based on a reward structure that encourages the dog to want to work more with you. Only reward based, there is no punishment or “correction.”\n\nb) Having the dog pay attention to something that is coupled with the reward [best standards of training techniques include capturing, luring, and shaping.]\n\nc) Punishment inhibits desired learning. d) Punishment does not tell the pet what to do. e) Punishment makes animals more reactive so it increases\n\naggression and arousal [emphasis added]. Any animal that was already aggressive will become worse when punished.\n\nf) Punishment increases the risk of physical and psychological injury.\n\nDogs handled with choke chains and prong collars often have laryngeal, esophageal, thyroidal, and tracheal damage. Recurrent laryngeal nerve damage or paralysis may be detected by a change in bark (Overall et al., 2006).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 184, "chunk_index": 165, "id": "02c4b27b-16e8-4a18-bff4-a864544c3b35", "word_count": 179, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 232 } }, { "page_content": "Safety, comfort, and stress reduction are the most important criteria when selecting equipment used for training. The use of equipment causing stress or pain, such as choke, prong, or electronic shock collars is antithetical to Do No Harm training and is harmful to dogs. These devices are at odds with pet parents developing positive relationships with their dogs and may cause aggression or worsen aggression (Overall, 2006). Additionally, medical research shows stress to the neck causes injuries that include spinal cervical injury, burst capillaries in the eyeballs, foreleg nerve damage, impaired breathing, and damage that affects the function of the esophagus and trachea. A regular flat collar is recommended to hold identification tags only. Do not attach a leash to a flat collar—pressure from pulling on a flat\n\ncollar may cause medical injuries as well. Make leash-walking fun and relaxing. Recommended equipment includes:\n\nHarness. An X or Y shaped harness across the breast has the least impact on movement and mobility and provides the most comfort for your dog. A front, back, or double-clip harness is recommended for all dogs and puppies, including those dogs that have developed a habit of pulling on the leash during the walk. A harness that attaches to the leash at the breastplate is fine to start, although some trainers prefer the back-clip. There are benefits and drawbacks to each. Small dogs that do not pull may prefer a step-in harness. Flat collar. Use for identification tags. Leash. Use a leash that is four or six feet in length. When you begin training, a short leash may be helpful for dogs that are difficult to walk. However, using a long (long line), very loose leash for training helps if your dog is reactive.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 185, "chunk_index": 166, "id": "3cd3dfba-4e7a-4627-9edf-f7d5eb1785b3", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "If we could not go to the grocery store and bring home bags of groceries or open the refrigerator, we would be asking, “Who’s got the food? What can I do for the people who have the food?” The easiest, scientifically endorsed dog training and socialization methods involve food. Animal behavior icons from Skinner to Pavlov and progressive zoos worldwide manage very large and potentially dangerous animals by using the power of food wisely.\n\nIf you have ever taken a Psychology 101 course you may recall that food is a primary reinforcer. Dogs love and need food for survival, making food a very powerful training tool. Do not believe anyone who tells you it is a bad idea to use food to train your dog! In The Secret History of Kindness: Learning from How Dogs Learn, author Melissa Holbrook Pierson says, “Withholding every possible chance to learn all they are capable of, and so to feel that native joy, is mean, in the original sense of the word: miserly stingy” (2015, p. 255). Jean Donaldson has this to say about trainers who are adamantly self-righteous about withholding the pleasure of food, “The sad objective of these trainers seems to be to reach the end of the dog’s life having dispensed as few rewards as possible. It’s difficult to explain why an animal trainer would strive to be as stingy as possible, given the evidence of how powerful and safe positive reinforcement is” (Donaldson as cited in Pierson, 2015, p. 255).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 187, "chunk_index": 167, "id": "aa6d0ada-b526-45f7-863d-9b79a0a08ece", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "Positive reinforcement training is an effective training method, in part, because of hand-fed treats. Using food judiciously quickly motivates a dog to learn new behaviors. Do not worry; food rewards may be decreased after a behavior is well learned and replaced with real-life reinforcement of value to your dog. You may also use play as a reward if your dog is more motivated by play. Use a graduated treat system for training, saving the highest value treats for the most difficult emotional issues.\n\nTreats. High value treats such as air-dried and freeze-dried meats and organs, organic and nitrite-free hot dogs, string cheese, or a homemade mixture of favorite treats cut to pea-size may be used for training. Although trainers commonly call food, “treats” or even “cookies,” typically they are referring to healthy high-grade species- specific food. Treat bag. Whether you opt for a plastic baggie in your pocket, a fanny pack, or a fashionable, convenient treat bag, carrying treats on your walks and during training sessions is recommended. Having\n\neasily accessible treats makes a great difference in your ability to get your dog’s attention in high-distraction environments and speeds up learning. A treat bag also keeps your hands free.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 187, "chunk_index": 168, "id": "e7cb4308-5551-4cff-8d10-8036728404f2", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "side from choosing a force-free trainer, selecting a compassionate veterinarian and a gentle groomer are two of the most important decisions you will make for your dog. Veterinary and grooming visits are often the first regularly predictable interactions a dog will have with people and other dogs outside of the home and continue throughout a lifetime. The experiences at the veterinarian and groomer, and how your dog perceives each experience, has serious and long-lasting effects. Gentle veterinary and grooming care may prevent instilling fear, anxiety, escape avoidance behavior, aggression, or triggering tonic immobility in your dog. Being restrained and manipulated by a stranger may be very frightening to your dog. Rushing through veterinary and grooming visits to get the task over with as quickly as possible is likely to backfire for you, your dog, and the practitioner in the long run, making future visits more frightening for your dog and more difficult for all.\n\nIf you have a wonderfully competent, kind, and gentle veterinarian or groomer who understands your dog’s emotional and medical needs, bravo! These practitioners may be rather difficult to find, however, their numbers are growing exponentially: they are the wave of the future.\n\nVeterinary visits may have a profound impact on your dog both medically and emotionally. The very first veterinary experience often sets the stage for how your dog responds to veterinary visits thereafter—either positively or negatively.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 190, "chunk_index": 169, "id": "67de7369-5db0-42aa-8060-a692b95c0679", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "So many pet parents feel helpless not knowing how they can make veterinary visits more pleasant for their dogs. If your dog is afraid of visiting the veterinarian, start practicing at home and begin a dialogue with your practitioner about force-free visits, or to find a veterinarian with a more dog-centered practice. If not handled with care, fearful or aggressive behavioral effects from fear at the veterinary clinic may be long lasting and resistant to change, causing unnecessary heartache for all. Slowly and carefully familiarize your dog to the veterinary procedures and veterinary equipment.\n\nVeterinarians and technicians may not understand dog body language or displays of stress. When possible, ask to accompany your dog during basic or stressful procedures, if you remain upbeat and supportive, rather than leaving your dog with a stranger for what may be a painful event. Your presence can help your dog feel more secure, if you have practiced at home and at the clinic before the need arises. According to the founder of the Canine Research Studies social media group, Rebekah Hudson, “To me, clinics that take dogs to the back without their pet parents for routine blood draws and vaccinations is a sign that we need to make improvements in the veterinary clinic and in the education of dog parents. We need more collaboration between veterinary staff, force-free trainers and owners” (Hudson, 2019a, para. 15).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 191, "chunk_index": 170, "id": "2060d6a6-43c5-4795-9263-5dd77f2db84b", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "Hiring a gentle, mobile veterinarian for basic care may be less stressful for both you and your dog, particularly if your dog already has an intense fear of the veterinary clinic. At-home visits allow your dog the familiar environment of home, while removing the possible stress of being near other animals who may also be experiencing fear. At-home visits also keep your dog away from any risk of exposure to animals who may be ill or unvaccinated.\n\nMost pet parents are now aware of the necessity of providing dog-dog socialization opportunities for their puppies. Nevertheless, when, and how\n\nto do it is still seriously misunderstood. Dog-dog aggression is widespread, often contributing to behavior problems. Many veterinarians, breeders, and pet store owners still advise new pet parents to refrain from socializing their new puppy with other dogs until the age of four to six months of age to avoid the potential for exposure to illnesses in unvaccinated puppies and dogs.\n\nHowever, Dr. Karen Overall, Veterinarian, Diplomat of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (ACVB) PhD, CAAB, explains, “Worldwide, it’s exceptional that veterinary specialists in behavior are on faculty at veterinary schools, and yet the single biggest killer of pet dogs is behavior problems. People need to realize that vets do not know that much about problematic behavior, or maybe even normal behavior. The single biggest reason people relinquish animals to a shelter is a behavioral problem.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 191, "chunk_index": 171, "id": "1e1c82f3-66c7-4891-9c07-40f9e79a280b", "word_count": 235, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 305 } }, { "page_content": "Veterinary experts in animal behavior caution that the risk of developing behavioral problems—especially aggression—outweighs risk of developing disease in otherwise healthy puppies. This knowledge is fundamental because behavioral issues are generally the primary factor in relinquishing dogs to shelters and ultimately if these dogs are not adopted, they are often euthanized. Shelters have the difficult, if not impossible, task of trying to find good homes for dogs who cannot get along with other dogs. As early as 2004, renowned veterinarian, RK Anderson, published an open letter to his veterinary colleagues titled “Puppy Vaccination and Early Socialization Should Go Together”. Dr. Lynn Honeckman, DVM, states, “There is a very small window of opportunity during which it is our job to teach our puppies that the world is a safe place” (personal communication).\n\nThe American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) “Position Statement on Puppy Socialization” advises socialization in the first three months of life, before puppies are fully vaccinated, as the standard of care. It states that, “Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences” (2008, para. 2). Socializing with littermates or in-house dogs is not sufficient. Dr. Lee Harris, DVM, a veterinarian who studies canine behavior, wisely counsels, “Common sense needs to be exerted about providing well-chosen socialization” (personal", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 192, "chunk_index": 172, "id": "b96fa955-cf9c-4cbf-9e63-7918cbbcf26f", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "communication, 2012). The Pet Professional Guild (2012) offers a terrific one-page socialization guide with a checklist on one side and a “how-to” on the other side.\n\nWork closely with your veterinarian to keep your puppy current on her vaccinations or titer testing but remain proactive about socialization requirements. Discuss the current scientific literature and create a medically safe early socialization plan with your vet and a private trainer or puppy class instructor or ask your positive reinforcement behavioral consultant for a socialization-savvy veterinary referral.\n\nChoosing a compassionate veterinarian who practices gentle handling and restraint is one of the most critical decisions you will ever make for your dog. Find a pet-centered clinic with a veterinarian where your dog comes first. Force-free handling and Fear Free® visits should go hand-in-glove. Cooperative veterinary care is a team effort. When pet parents feel comfortable with the guidance given by their gentle veterinarian, they are more likely to practice maintenance care at home between visits.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 193, "chunk_index": 173, "id": "dcaf53b0-b5b6-4adc-b1e2-47e82a5c5034", "word_count": 161, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 209 } }, { "page_content": "Find a veterinarian who prioritizes compassionate care and minimizes stress instead of maximizing restraint. Find a veterinarian who will take the time to bond with your dog, and who uses treats liberally. Find a veterinarian who has studied dog behavior and who is sensitive to your dog’s psychological need for a sense of security as well as their biological needs. Find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable in recognizing signs of anxiety and responds appropriately to comfort and calm your dog. Find one who will examine your dog in your lap or on the floor, if practical. Rather than using nylon muzzles or restraints, a force-free veterinarian might use an air muzzle, anti-anxiety, or sedative medication. An air muzzle is a ball that resembles a deep diver’s helmet with an opening in the front so that your dog can release body heat by perspiration through the tongue, rather than a tightly fitting", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 193, "chunk_index": 174, "id": "0ede1898-7a87-407a-8659-ea4d0dde11a5", "word_count": 151, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 196 } }, { "page_content": "piece of nylon cloth that frightens your dog, and impedes the ability to breathe. Find a veterinarian who uses reward-based training methods making the experience as positive as possible for your dog. Find a veterinarian who stays up to date on safety and health trends through continuing education and training. Choose someone who is not only competent, but who is friendly and shares information willingly. Chat with any prospective veterinarians and ask pertinent questions about their practices. Find out if any animals have been injured or died under the veterinarian or clinic’s care. Check with the International Association of Better Business Bureaus (IABBB) the network hub for the United States, Canada, and Mexico, to see if any complaints have been filed against the business. Request references from other pet parents. Find gentle veterinarians in your area using the zip code search on the Pet Professional Guild website, petprofessionalguild.com (2020a). If you cannot locate a gentle veterinarian, find one who is willing to working with a force-free trainer to learn low-stress handling and restraint, dog body language, and positive reinforcement behavior modification techniques. Consider in-home mobile providers.\n\nHere are some handling tips that you can practice at home to make visits to the veterinarian less stressful for you, your dog, and your veterinarian. At home, reward intermittently with treats throughout the exercises listed below, to help your dog overcome the fear of handling, high places, and also rewarding calmness.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 194, "chunk_index": 175, "id": "b166dc24-abfa-4b5e-a673-5d4e98ffa012", "word_count": 238, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 309 } }, { "page_content": "Condition your dog to riding in the car so that travel is a pleasant experience. For small dogs and puppies, start early to desensitize your dog with a familiar dog carrier. For large dogs, desensitize your dog to accept containment in a securable car crate or a crash tested harness. The containment should be associated with high value treats. Early and", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 194, "chunk_index": 176, "id": "7f3a4574-9b7c-4e35-a6ee-052f101eb9c5", "word_count": 61, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 79 } }, { "page_content": "careful conditioning to a crate is advised for use in case of injury, emergency, or for other travel needs. Desensitize your dog to wearing a muzzle, and an Elizabethan collar from an early age in case of emergency, injury, or if your dog bites. View the step-by-step instructional video, “Teaching a Dog to Wear a Muzzle (Muzzle Training)” expertly demonstrated by Chirag Patel (2010). Practice placing your dog onto a safe, raised, table-like surface. Use a rubber mat, such as a yoga mat, for secure grip. Avoid falls by securing your dog. Examine the entire body with your hands, checking for tumor growth and lumps. Examine your dog from nose to tail, looking for irritations of the skin, rashes, minor cuts, etc. Examine your dog’s paws between each toe (Witmer, 2014). Your dog will acclimate to footpad examinations for foreign objects, foxtails, and nail trims. Regular nail trimming is a must for proper bone growth and stability. Nail trimming is not simply cosmetic. Examine your dog’s ears. Lift the earflap and take a good look inside while your dog sits quietly. Check for unusual odor or inflamed skin. Head shaking may mean your dog has an ear infection. If your dog rubs his head against objects, he may be trying to scratch infected ears, or relieve dental pain. Examine your dog’s mouth. Lift the lips and examine teeth and inside the mouth. This will not only aid in veterinary exams but will desensitize your dog to people touching your dog’s mouth. Foul breath may indicate that your dog has decayed and painful teeth. Examine the stomach area. Examine gently as if looking for fleas: palpate the stomach area. Do Not alpha roll your dog for this examination. Massage the sacral joint where the spine meets the tail and lift the tail to desensitize your dog to the anal exam.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 195, "chunk_index": 177, "id": "dd0472d7-643f-4669-9a3b-35afb1871002", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "exams but will desensitize your dog to people touching your dog’s mouth. Foul breath may indicate that your dog has decayed and painful teeth. Examine the stomach area. Examine gently as if looking for fleas: palpate the stomach area. Do Not alpha roll your dog for this examination. Massage the sacral joint where the spine meets the tail and lift the tail to desensitize your dog to the anal exam. Dragging the butt across the floor can mean anal gland impaction or worms, requiring a visit to your trusted veterinarian . . . or perhaps it just means your dog needs a baby wipe! Practice squeezing your dog’s skin between two fingers to simulate injections. Use a retracted pen to simulate the pressure of an injection.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 195, "chunk_index": 178, "id": "0fc80a34-8c2d-4863-b7e3-3be0923d03d3", "word_count": 126, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 163 } }, { "page_content": "Treat generously and calmly praise immediately. Simulate, then treat and repeat.\n\nCreate positive memories from the very first visit for a check-up or vaccination. Visit the clinic more than once before taking your dog in for an exam, or vaccination visit. The purpose of the preliminary visits is to provide the opportunity to deliver treats, for a weigh-in, and to play with the technicians, administrators, and veterinarians in the hospital without any stressful experience.\n\nTry arranging appointments during the quietest business hours for the clinic. Bring your dog’s favorite and familiar objects and toys with you, which will help your dog feel less fearful. Do not hurry. Relax. Your calm demeanor will help set the emotional stage for your dog. Do not wait in the reception area room with your dog. Wait in the car or have your dog wait in the car, if safe, until it is your turn to go into the exam room. Use a species-specific, dogs-only exam room so your dog is not triggered by the smell of cats or prey animals. Go into the treatment room with your dog first and wait if this prevents seeing other dogs and people in the reception area. Although, if the veterinarian and technicians enter the room first, your dog may react more calmly than to someone coming into “their” room. Know your dog. Ask the staff to avoid direct eye contact as much as possible especially if your dog is fearful. Both you and your veterinarian should provide your dog’s favorite high value treats liberally throughout a visit. Bring your dog to the veterinarian a bit hungry. Ask to stay with your dog if you remain calm during basic procedures. Stroke and talk to your pet during exams. Be sure your dog is on a non-slip surface.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 196, "chunk_index": 179, "id": "90cc0030-1a9e-4fe5-9dc4-1f4edf76fec5", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "Let your dog sniff the instruments. Ask your veterinarian to allow your dog to initiate interaction, that is, to give consent when ready, not vice-versa if trained. Allow your dog to show readiness for procedures. Do not force. Choice and consent are the progressive concepts in veterinary cooperative care. If your dog has fear, anxiety, or aggression issues, let your veterinarian know you want to work with them to help calm your dog, or possibly use a muzzle on your muzzle-preconditioned dog. Request the use of oral vaccinations whenever possible such as the Bordetella transmucosal vaccine rather than the intranasal or injectable forms. Ask your veterinarian to use topical pain management to reduce sensitivity. Use anti-anxiety drugs for those dogs who need them. You may try natural products such as Composure TM. (Learn more in Chapter 1, Gentle Veterinary Care.)\n\nGrooming is one of the most challenging dog-related professions due to the potential for accidents, and physical and psychological injury. Even the most competent, experienced, responsible, gentle groomer is not entirely immune from accidents and injuring pets. The best protection for your dog against both physical and psychological trauma during grooming is to properly research potential groomers, and to take responsibility to adequately prepare your dog for grooming, or to employ a mobile groomer who can remain under your direct supervision.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 197, "chunk_index": 180, "id": "7dd82e36-445e-4f6a-aa17-a510ee048731", "word_count": 221, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 287 } }, { "page_content": "It is best to begin regular grooming sessions at home when your dog is young. Wait until your puppy is 4 months old and fully vaccinated before you visit a groomer. If your puppy needs grooming before then, do it yourself at home or hire a mobile groomer. The very first grooming experience generally sets the stage for how your dog responds to grooming for a lifetime—either positively or negatively. Visit the groomer more than once before taking your dog in for the first groom just delivering treats and playing with the office personnel and groomers, creating positive memories from the first day. Make the first session an abbreviated visit for bonding\n\nwith office personnel, bathers, and groomer, acclimation, and lots of love and treats. Slowly and carefully begin familiarizing your dog with the grooming process and grooming equipment. If your dog already has a fear of grooming, hiring a gentle mobile groomer may be the least stressful choice for both you and your dog. This eliminates the stress of being near other animals who may be aggressive or experiencing fear themselves. Mobile grooming is often faster and less stressful in many ways for your dog. Pet parents can easily stay with their dog or check in periodically and unexpectedly.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 198, "chunk_index": 181, "id": "d8aeb43b-4ada-4983-8fe7-a8386a18beea", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "If your dog has fear, aggression, or anxiety issues, let your groomer know that you will accept a less than perfect groom and that you place your dog’s emotional well-being ahead of cosmetic appearances. Never force grooming that is not tolerated well. Dogs should not be whimpering, shaking, or snapping during grooming. Our dogs can learn to accept and even enjoy grooming with the right gentle grooming professional in a calm environment. Pet parents need to do their part in advocating for their dog by learning about grooming, finding a gentle groomer, classically conditioning their dog before and between grooming visits, and gently grooming their dog at home between visits.\n\nChoosing a compassionate groomer who practices gentle handling and restraint is one of the most important decisions you will make for your dog. Pet parents need to be proactive about the treatment their dog receives while in a groomer’s care. As with veterinarians and trainers, seek groomers who are force-free, competent, accountable, and who practice transparency in advertising. Research the facility and the practitioner.\n\nSadly, the grooming industry is unregulated. Groomers, like trainers, have no formal educational requirements. Groomers are encouraged to educate themselves about using Do No Harm grooming protocols and equipment. Finding a gentle groomer may be a challenging task, but it is well worth the search. Find a gentle groomer who considers your dog’s well-being rather than expediency first.\n\nFind a salon prioritizing compassionate care, minimizing stress instead of maximizing restraint.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 199, "chunk_index": 182, "id": "98deaffd-78f6-41bb-90b8-23b6851137ae", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "Search for a professional who takes the time to bond with your dog, and who uses treats liberally. Find a groomer who uses reward-based training methods to make the experience as positive as possible for your dog. Find a groomer who recognizes signs of anxiety and responds appropriately to comfort and calm your dog. Find a groomer who graduated from a training program and belongs to a professional grooming trade organization. Although groomers are not required to be licensed members in organizations such as the National Dog Groomers Association, membership often indicates continuing education and on-the-job apprenticeships. Be certain your groomer carries liability insurance. Choose a veteran groomer with years of experience. An experienced groomer is more likely to be confident and competent, and willing to admit to their limitations. Choose a groomer who is up to date on safety and health trends through continuing education and training. Find a groomer who is well versed in handling pesticides, allergic reactions, proper handling techniques, and monitoring animal behavior. Find out if any animals have been injured or died under the groomer or salon care. Check with the International Association of Better Business Bureaus (IABBB) the network hub for the United States, Canada, and Mexico, to see if any complaints have been filed against the business. Request references from other clients. Find gentle groomers in your area using the Pet Professional Guild website, petprofessionalguild.com (2020a). If you cannot find a gentle practitioner, find one who is willing to work with a force-free trainer to learn low-stress handling and restraint, dog body language, and positive reinforcement behavior modification techniques. Consider in-home mobile groomers. This can eliminate a", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 200, "chunk_index": 183, "id": "1a914d03-7c75-415a-9b71-b4ca69991fb5", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "ther clients. Find gentle groomers in your area using the Pet Professional Guild website, petprofessionalguild.com (2020a). If you cannot find a gentle practitioner, find one who is willing to work with a force-free trainer to learn low-stress handling and restraint, dog body language, and positive reinforcement behavior modification techniques. Consider in-home mobile groomers. This can eliminate a great deal of stress and you will be close at hand to check in periodically to be certain your instructions are being followed and your dog is doing well. Choose someone who is not only competent, but who is friendly and willing to share information. Chat with them and ask questions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 200, "chunk_index": 184, "id": "a421c0a4-2d53-49fa-9db4-3b17cf4c2164", "word_count": 108, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 140 } }, { "page_content": "Cooperative grooming care is a team effort, so it is imperative pet parents feel comfortable asking for guidance to properly maintain their dog between visits. This is the responsibility of the pet parent to their dog and to their gentle groomer.\n\nGrooming can be a wonderful bonding experience for the pet and the pet parent. Your dog can acclimate to being handled in ways your dog is not normally handled, making professional grooming easier for your dog. A force-free trainer can teach you ways of habituating your new puppy to grooming noises, gentle restraint, and handling.\n\nA force-free trainer will introduce grooming desensitization steps for the adolescent and adult dog including guidance on consent in grooming husbandry. Here are some things that you can practice at home to make trips to the groomer less stressful for your dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 201, "chunk_index": 185, "id": "7f9d8317-ba8c-48e4-b4ff-459428b7e197", "word_count": 138, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 179 } }, { "page_content": "Condition your dog to riding in the car so that travel is a pleasant experience. Desensitize your small dog or puppy to being transported in a carrier that is familiar, well-loved, and has been associated with treats. Early and gentle conditioning to a carrier or crate is recommended for use in case of injury, emergency, or for other travel needs. Desensitize your large dog to accept containment in a securable crate or crash- tested harness. The containment should be associated with high value treats. Desensitize your dog to wearing a muzzle or an Elizabethan collar from an early age for emergencies, or if your dog bites. There is a step-by-step habituation and desensitization instructional video, expertly taught by Chirag Patel (2010) to illustrate how to do it causing the least amount of stress to your dog. Brush your dog every day or two. Mist your dog with a few drops of leave-in conditioner manufactured for dogs, to make brushing easier. Reward intermittently and generously with treats throughout practice to help your dog overcome the fear of high places, handling, and to reward calmness.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 201, "chunk_index": 186, "id": "d1024ea7-dd39-4a30-a7c3-d1f108443374", "word_count": 183, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 237 } }, { "page_content": "Practice placing your dog onto a safe, raised table-like surface. Use a rubber mat, such as a yoga mat, for secure grip. Secure your pet to avoid falls. Keep your dog leashed so the grooming process is not prolonged, which can increase anxiety. Desensitize your dog to the sound of the blow dryer, sound of clippers, and to the clicking sound of a nail trimmer (North Shore Animal League, 2015). Acclimate your dog to soap and warm baths at home before going to the groomer. Avoid shampooing your dog’s head. Clean your dog’s face every day with a warm washcloth without soap, to help prevent tear staining. Dogs with loose facial skin, such as Shar Pei, Boston Terriers, Bulldogs and Pugs need special care to prevent dirt and bacteria from causing irritation or infection. Clean the folds with a damp cotton swab and dry thoroughly between the folds. Examine your dog’s paws between each toe. This will help your dog to acclimate to paw-restraint for nail trims. Dogs should be comfortable with having their paws held and manipulated for up to 60 seconds. Remember, regular nail trimming is a must for proper bone growth and stability. Examine your dog’s ears. Lift the earflap and take a good look inside the ear while your dog sits quietly. Check for unusual odor or inflamed skin. Having the hair plucked out of the ears is an unpleasant experience. Examine your dog’s mouth. Lift the lips and examine teeth and inside the mouth. This will desensitize your dog to people touching your dog’s mouth. Make sure your dog has proper dental care. Proper dental care is so often overlooked! Massage the sacral joint where the spine meets the tail and lift the tail to desensitize your dog to handling. Teach your dog how to give consent, how to ask for a break, and how to ask you to stop. Choice and", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 202, "chunk_index": 187, "id": "cda44be7-8ebe-4c66-b87e-99f50bba9ba4", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "examine teeth and inside the mouth. This will desensitize your dog to people touching your dog’s mouth. Make sure your dog has proper dental care. Proper dental care is so often overlooked! Massage the sacral joint where the spine meets the tail and lift the tail to desensitize your dog to handling. Teach your dog how to give consent, how to ask for a break, and how to ask you to stop. Choice and consent are the wave of the future in modern cooperative care.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 202, "chunk_index": 188, "id": "89a1cc03-7354-419e-abfa-837adfa52f92", "word_count": 85, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 110 } }, { "page_content": "Remain calm and supportive and stay with your dog during grooming, if possible. Both you and the groomer should provide high value treats liberally throughout the visit. Stroke and talk with your pet during grooming, if possible. Bring your dog’s favorite and familiar objects and toys. This will help your dog feel less fearful. Make sure your groomer is patient and kind while you observe a groom. A good groomer will show you how to groom correctly at home using the right techniques and tools to help you carry on their best practices between visits.\n\nTry to arrange appointments during the quietest hours at the salon. Make sure your dog has ample opportunity to eliminate before going inside. Do not wait with your dog in the waiting room. Wait in the car or have your pet wait in the car, if safe, until it is your turn to go in for grooming. Request a dogs-only grooming room, if possible, so your dog is not triggered by the smell of cats or prey animals. Have the groomer in the room before you and your dog enter.\n\nLet your dog sniff the instruments. Ask your groomer to allow your dog to initiate interaction when ready, not vice-versa. Allow your dog to show you readiness for grooming. Do not force. Find a groomer who will groom your dog in your lap or on the floor if possible. Be sure your dog is on a non-slip surface. Bring your dog to the groomer a bit hungry. Ask your groomer to avoid direct eye contact as much as possible if your dog is fearful. If you have a small dog that may be aggressive, ask your groomer to use an air muzzle, that is, a ball that resembles a deep diver’s helmet with an opening in the front, rather than a tightly fitting piece of cloth that frightens your dog and can impedes the ability to breath. Alternatively, use a basket muzzle. Do not hurry.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 203, "chunk_index": 189, "id": "32d0dd11-2b66-4a67-bf8f-7837ea87cac8", "word_count": 330, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 429 } }, { "page_content": "There are anti-anxiety drugs for those pets who need it. You may try natural anti- anxiety products such as ComposureTM or confer with your veterinary behaviorist. (Learn more in Chapter 1, Gentle Grooming Care.)\n\nike humans, dogs are social creatures. Today pet parents know the importance of socializing their dogs, but they are unsure how to do so safely and effectively. Socialize early, slowly, and carefully. It is vital your puppy experiences each interaction as entirely positive. Behavior modification systematic desensitization and counterconditioning (D&CC) will help you and your dog learn safe ways of socializing and exercising. Start carefully supervised socialization as early as possible. Early socialization is absolutely necessary to avoid problems such as fearfulness and/or aggression later in your dog’s life. Socialization training opportunities in public should be practiced frequently and regularly throughout your dog’s life. Socialize! Socialize! Socialize!\n\nCarefully expose your puppy or dog to 100 new things in the first 100 days starting on day one for a happy, confident adolescent and adult dog. Introduce your puppy to three new dog lovers every day! A puppy’s critical socialization period is between 4 and 12 weeks of age; however, now is the time to help your dog of any age learn to accept the whole world gracefully without fear or reactivity.\n\nGentle daily handling and massage will benefit both you and your dog. It will strengthen your bond with your puppy or new-to-you dog and keep your dog from becoming sensitive to touch. Nevertheless, always let your dog decide when to be touched and for how long.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 204, "chunk_index": 190, "id": "1b5d84c9-c52c-4244-96b2-3087a1216dfe", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "Preparing your dog to live peaceably and happily in a people and dog-filled environment makes sense. Plan for the lifetime of happiness you desire with your dog. Socialize early with planned, orchestrated, incremental exposures\n\nto each of the commonly known dog triggers. People, other dogs, moving objects, loud noises, and novel situations need socialization:\n\nSocialize your dog to all kinds of people, especially your veterinarian, groomer, men, children, and strangers. People wearing hats, sunglasses, using canes, wheelchairs, deep-voiced, and any type of person your dog may encounter later in life, particularly those that may tend to startle your dog when experienced for the first time. Invite dog lovers to your home for a low-arousal puppy party! However, don’t pass the puppy around: let the puppy approach the guests on the puppy’s own terms, while guests use encouragement with treats. Dr. Ian Dunbar, veterinarian, Animal Behavior PhD, and pioneer in puppy training tells us that safe socialization during the first few weeks at home is of “extreme urgency.” Indeed, Dunbar has launched the SIRIUS Puppy Raising Initiative explaining socialization imperatives for puppies in the short critical period of social development (between 4 and 12 weeks of age). “Puppies must be safely socialized to people; otherwise, during adolescence they will likely become wary and fearful and may be aggressive towards people” (Dunbar, 2012, para. 2).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 206, "chunk_index": 191, "id": "f90ef6a7-ab67-4bbe-b5be-30fe33114f54", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "Socialize your dog to all kinds of dogs that are well behaved. All breeds, all sizes, all colors, all ages, both sexes—neutered, spayed, and au natural, only if dog- friendly. Your puppy or dog must learn how to respect the boundaries set by other dogs and to set boundaries as early in life as possible. If practical, arrange playgroups with dogs you know are dog- friendly and vaccinated. A propensity toward aggression with stranger-dogs is likely without careful, proper socialization during the critical sensitive period. Inadequate early socialization early often results in aggression, which is resistant to treatment, dogfights, embarrassing and stressful barking/lunging walks, heartache, pet abandonment, and in some cases, death.\n\nSocialize/habituate your dog to skateboards, joggers, bicycles, loud trucks, motorcycles, cats, rabbits, lizards, and cows! Thunder and fireworks are particularly frightening to dogs. While using video recordings and\n\nreplicating the conditions are possible, recommended treatments providing a “bolt hole,” comfort, and possibly anti-anxiety medication are advised.\n\nSocialize, that is, habituate your puppy to riding in the car, shopping in malls, visiting pet stores, calmly settling at coffee shops, riding in an elevator, and anything else you expect your dog may encounter during a lifetime.\n\nIf your puppy or dog appears frightened, increase your distance from the feared object. Comfort your dog. By introducing new things slowly and confidently, you will avoid frightening your dog and encourage calm acceptance. The best socialization approach is introducing new or potentially frightening things in graduating baby steps.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 207, "chunk_index": 192, "id": "f4c5d237-9e30-44ac-8ac9-c1132e02c398", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "After the 4 to 12-week sensitive period window closes, the friendly, socializing puppy open to accepting the wide and wonderful world enters into a fear-acquiring developmental period.\n\nPlay between dogs should be a two-way street. Play should typically go back and forth, with one dog pursuing the other and then a role reversal. If one dog is always being chased, or hiding, it is highly unlikely this dog is having fun and intervention is necessary. Role reversal also means one dog on top, then the other dog on top. Do not allow chase games with a large dog pursuing a puppy or small dog. The 50:50 Rule stipulates that both players have the same chance of winning (Aldis, 1975).\n\nHere are some essential tips for the assessment and supervision of play:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 208, "chunk_index": 193, "id": "7a6618c8-90c7-4912-8b74-4b5712d73316", "word_count": 131, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 170 } }, { "page_content": "Look for wiggling body language, happy faces, and play bows from both dogs. Bouncy exaggerated rocking-horse type movements are a sign the dogs are having fun. Determine whether your dog wants to run back and play with another dog by giving a consent test. Separate the dogs, remove your dog some distance away, then observe whether your dog wants to run back and play with the other dog or not. Dogs should be self-imposing breaks from play to rest or get a small drink. Breaks may include sniffing. If one dog wants a break the other dog shows respect by not persisting in perpetual play inducements. If your dog comes and lies down near you, take the lead, and protect your dog from further interaction until your dog desires another round of play. Sniffing may be in order. Puppies and adult dogs must be monitored very carefully as should small dogs vs. large dogs. Not all adult dogs like puppies. Large adult dogs should change levels, that is voluntarily self- handicap, and let the puppy or smaller dog “win” regularly during role reversals. These behaviors balance inequalities in size, strength, and health. If role-reversals or self-handicapping are not occurring, do not allow your puppy or small dog continued interaction with an adult or much larger dog who may show aggression or cause physical or emotional injury. One dog may be either the victim or the bully in different contexts. Roles may also change when playing with different play partners. Dogs should take turns happily chasing each other where neither dog is a bully or a target, so play goes back and forth. With puppies, adult dogs should be willing to let the puppy win now and again and should always back off if the puppy squeals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 209, "chunk_index": 194, "id": "9e519976-5649-42f5-811c-a31880463285", "word_count": 296, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 384 } }, { "page_content": "You should not hear a puppy or dog squealing during play except if the dog is accidentally frightened or tackled too roughly. Adult dogs should be willing to get down to the puppy’s or small dog’s level, that is, handicapping, so that the puppy can have fun too. Make sure all puppies and dogs have areas to escape play if stressed or tired.\n\nContrary to some widely held opinions, well-socialized adult dogs are generally quite tolerant of puppies and do not actively, or frequently correct puppies with neck grabs, shakes or any type of aggressive behavior. If play becomes too rough the adult dog typically simply walks away, effectively ending the fun, therein, teaching the puppy what is appropriate and what is not. (See Chapter 9, Dog-Dog Play Rules.)\n\nWho can resist getting your dog and family outdoors to catch the surf, soak up some rays, and exercise together? Dog parks and dog beaches are wonderful places for exercise and play; however, they also come with some built-in dangers. Make the right decisions at the right time for your dog. Dog play and dog parks should be safe, fun and a source of enjoyment for both you and your dog. Watch your dog’s behavior and body language carefully. Pat Miller, Training Editor for the Whole Dog Journal, tells us that at least half of the problems seen at the dog parks stem from inappropriate human behavior. It is the pet parent’s responsibility to observe and monitor their dog’s interactions at all times. Talking distractedly on a cell phone or with other pet parents is not fair to your dog or to the other dogs who are playing. Do not bring food or treats into a dog park or dog beach area.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 210, "chunk_index": 195, "id": "ffecf37b-5a21-44e8-9155-a80fe66abed1", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Look for parks with separate large and small dog areas. Large, boisterous dogs may accidentally injure small dogs during play. For beginners, avoid crowds by finding a nice quiet area away from the entrance and other areas of greatest activity to avoid crowds. Some very progressive private parks have four separate areas: one area for small active dogs, one for small quiet dogs, one for large active dogs, and one for large quiet dogs. Most dog parks have signage with instructions. Attorney, Kenneth M. Phillips, owner, and author of Dog Bite Law (2020), warns pet parents\n\nabout possible legal problems that include inappropriate dogs visiting dog parks resulting in dog fights, bites, and injuries. Canine business-owners who bring multiple dogs to a park at one time can pose unfair dangers to the average dog. Visitors who fail to clean up after their pet risk possible disease transmission. Understand that when you enter a dog park or beach, you do so at your dog’s peril. You waive your rights and assume all risks if your dog is injured.\n\nDogs are, after all, cognitively comparable to 2 or 3-year-old children for their entire lives. They simply cannot be trusted in making good decisions by our standards on any regular basis. Plus, dogs often play by their own rules. Protect and keep your dog safe, and provide great exercise and fun by following these dog beach and dog park adventure guidelines:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 210, "chunk_index": 196, "id": "65c9e33b-ff42-4ad8-8aef-b138395cfbb7", "word_count": 238, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 309 } }, { "page_content": "Do not overwhelm your dog. If your dog is a dog park or socialization beginner, arrive at quiet times of the day allowing your dog time to acclimate to the new environment and to feel safe there, keeping your visits short. Arrive first so your dog can greet one stranger dog at a time. Move away from the entry gate as soon as possible. The entrance is where all the other dogs rush to meet newcomers at a dog park. Start games with one dog, then two, then four, then more, and monitor how your dog is doing with each increasing level of intensity. Educate yourself on the symptoms of heatstroke, especially if you have a senior dog or a dog with a short upper respiratory tract, such as the Pug, Boston Terrier, or Pekingese. The first signs of heatstroke are increased panting, and gums or tongue that is dry, sticky and bright pink, reddish or purple. If your dog begins to vomit, become unsteady, or pass bloody diarrhea, take your dog to the veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Forgo dog parks or beaches when temperatures are extreme with heat, cold, or ice. Exercise early in the morning or later in the evening during summer. Provide small amounts of fresh water to avoid bloat/gastric torsion associated with exercise and gulping water. Offer fresh water that is cool, not ice cold. Offer frequent breaks with shady rest. Your dog will not know when to stop when they are aroused.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 211, "chunk_index": 197, "id": "109c2b52-72ff-400b-b0f6-2358cc85f34f", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "Evaporation has a cooling effect. Pour a little cool, not cold, water down your dog’s back and/or rub a bit on the tummy. Use baby sunscreen on noses, thin-skinned, and light-coated dogs, and upright ears—all those pink spots. Dogs should not wear gear, collars, or harnesses that are unsafe for group play. Young children should not be allowed to run or play in dog parks. Children playing with their own dog in a high-intensity environment may be at risk of injury. Other dogs may join in—aroused dogs are frequently unpredictable. Do not bring babies, strollers, prams, toddlers, or young grade school kids into a busy dog park. Nancy Kerns, Chief Editor of the Whole Dog Journal, tells us, “A small child who gets knocked down and starts to scream is like a magnet to some dogs. It gives me shivers” (Kerns, 2012). Children, the elderly, young puppies, senior dogs, and small dogs mixed in with a group of big rowdy dogs may be at risk of being hurt even quite accidentally. Supervise older children at all times. Train a reliable recall for better dog park off-leash reliability.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 212, "chunk_index": 198, "id": "471f775e-b4f3-401e-b69f-8bf99b752048", "word_count": 187, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 243 } }, { "page_content": "rovide enrichment for your dog with ongoing training, chew-items, games, toys, and jobs for your dog to improve quality of life and enhance your relationship with your dog. Meet your dog’s social enrichment needs with regular walks, outings, and activities. Learn dog body language to easily determine if your dog really wants to be touched or petted or meet someone new. If safe, consider dog sports, providing the opportunity for bonding, novelty, and to increase confidence. Try offering your dog more choices in terms of a variety of meals and treats, let them lead on a walk, provide alternative spots for sleeping, and let them choose whether they prefer to be inside or outside when possible and safe. (See Chapter 4, Novelty/Enrichment.)\n\nSniffing is the portal to scent identification. Chemical markers in scent identification are processed by the vomeronasal organ in your dog. A large part of the dog brain is devoted to processing olfactory information similar to our primary processing of visual information. Providing scent-filled activities, fondly called “sniffaris,” and games, tracking and nose work, are\n\nenriching and a unique way of playing with a dog who may not be interested in other forms of play.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 214, "chunk_index": 199, "id": "319e97f7-2b50-415f-8642-45b24f3729f5", "word_count": 197, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 256 } }, { "page_content": "Sensory enrichment gardens have been used in animal shelters to de- stress and make dogs happier and healthier, while providing a space for exploration and exercise. Sensory gardens have become very popular when considering enrichment for all dogs (Shippen, 2016). A variety of scents your dog can self-select, such as ornamental grasses, different textures, a bed of hay, tiered levels, digging pits, a fountain or a kiddie pool, trails, hollow logs, and bird feeders can make a world of difference at home as well. Sensory gardens are also mentally stimulating, building confidence in your dog.\n\nApril Bove-Rothwell, former gorilla trainer and enrichment expert for the San Diego Zoo and Safari Park, and Do No Harm intern graduate, wrote this salient piece, adapted from her BARKS from the Guild trade magazine article (2016, July).\n\nThe overall goal of enrichment is to increase the behavioral repertoire of an animal. Enrichment goes far beyond just encouraging natural behaviors; it has the power to modify behavior when carefully planned and executed. Specific goals may include increasing natural behaviors like food foraging in order to increase activity. Observing and evaluating your dog’s response to enrichment is crucial to assess if it is meeting the goals of a behavior modification program.\n\nEnvironmental enrichment is an effective behavior modification tool that is often overlooked. Providing a stimulating environment enhances the physical and psychological well-being of an animal by allowing them to express the range of behaviors typical of their species. Environmental enrichment may significantly alleviate boredom or stress, as well as prevent or modify maladaptive behaviors caused by boredom, stress, or fear. It both passes time and expends energy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 215, "chunk_index": 200, "id": "dd57dcaf-f795-41fa-b849-efe1e33c2431", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "Enrichment allows dogs to express natural behaviors appropriately with games and enrichment devices instead of the undesirable behaviors, such as incessant barking or chewing inappropriate items.\n\nEnvironmental enrichment can be categorized by each of the five senses: sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. An enrichment program should aim to utilize all of the senses in various combinations.\n\nFood is a very popular method of enrichment. Presenting food in a variety of feeders, locations and times throughout the day is very enriching. A dog’s diet can be easily presented in a variety of ways (whole, chopped, frozen, blended), hidden in different locations, or scattered to promote foraging.\n\nTactile enrichment provides dogs with different surfaces or substrates with which to interact. Puzzle feeders are a tactile enrichment that increase foraging time and enhance\n\nChanging the locations and times dogs spend in different areas of the home adds variety to a dog’s day. Exploring areas where other dogs have been allows dogs to smell objects used by others. They may also benefit from increased visual access to other dogs but need to be able to retreat if desired.\n\nEnrichment works because it influences behavior, even when we are not present. In-home environments may become predictable and boring, especially when there are behavior problems that make it difficult to bring the dog outside. A variety of enrichment items should be provided and can include interactive food-based toys like stuffed Kongs®, sand boxes with hidden toys for digging, games like hide and seek (with you or their toys), nose work with items like scented boxes, and tug toys to encourage play behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 215, "chunk_index": 201, "id": "a9642663-14e6-4595-97cf-1de562bb2afc", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "Enrichment gives dogs choice and control, which tends to increase overall welfare and the likelihood of thriving. Enrichment, along with positive training, helps dogs cope with the unnatural human world we thrust upon them and increases their physical and mental well- being, so they can live happy lives. (Bove-Rothwell, July 2016, p. 54–56)\n\nUsing your dog’s allotment of daily food calories helps your dog overcome emotional difficulties. Food enhances emotional associations and dispels fear. Food can effectively focus, redirect, distract, and calm a hyperactive, fearful, or noise-phobic dog, and safely treat all types of aggression. Dogs are born scavengers. By setting up grazing opportunities, your dog is given an enjoyable job keeping your dog out of trouble. Here are some of my favorite Grazing GamesTM (Michaels, 2017a) that address underlying emotional drives and leads to a change in behavior.\n\nScatter breakfast and/or dinner. There’s no need to feed every meal from a bowl. Eating out of a bowl is something humans, not dogs, prefer to do. Scatter breakfast out on the patio, walkway, or pesticide and chemical-free lawn. Your dog will find every last piece of premium-quality kibble while you surf the web or drink your morning brew. Use food to change emotions. Desensitize and countercondition fear of the car, a location, noise, person, or of other dogs by scattering high value food, paired with a low-intensity version of the feared stimulus, if safe.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 216, "chunk_index": 202, "id": "51bf733b-0b55-45c0-9541-3dbc8666d168", "word_count": 234, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 304 } }, { "page_content": "Environmental enhancement. Grazing makes almost any environment more engaging and feel safer. Separation anxiety/housetraining. Pet parents often mistake separation anxiety fear for a housetraining problem. If you suspect your dog may be afraid to go outside without you, scatter kibble for grazing in the yard but avoid the dog’s elimination area. Make certain there is no real threat to your dog’s safety outdoors. Greeting protocol—Redirecting doorbell barking. Upon hearing the doorbell, redirect your dog from running to the front door and barking, to running to the back door and out into the yard where you routinely scatter treats all over the patio, walkways, or lawn at the sound of the doorbell. Practice using a recording of your doorbell or knock on the door. While your dog is busy, answer the door. Let your dog inside when calm. Housetraining accidents. Scatter high value dry food over thoroughly cleaned urination and defection areas to speed housetraining. Dogs typically will not want to eliminate where they eat. Marking. Scatter treats over thoroughly cleaned previously marked areas to help eliminate marking. Dogs often do not like to eat where they have marked with urine. Scatter treats on and around any new or novel item, such as a new rug, brought into the home to pre-empt marking.\n\nPlaypen/Crate training. Scatter food over the floor of the playpen, x-pen or crate to ensure that these containments are attractive to your dog and to help decrease fearfulness.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 217, "chunk_index": 203, "id": "79f2fab6-0060-4ab6-ac21-8b0381e43ead", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "A newly popular anti-stress, anti-anxiety enrichment activity for you dog involves dog-friendly landscaping and creating a sensory garden. A sensory garden allows you dog to use all of the senses—smelling, seeing, touching, hearing, and tasting within a safe environment created with your dog in mind. A sensory garden encourages exploration and exercise.\n\nHere are some ideas that make a sensory garden fun and engaging for\n\nDigging pits. Create a digging pit using a contained area filled with sand. Bury a high value raw meaty bone, for example, for your dog to find. Streams, fountains, kiddie pools. Some pet parents create elaborate environments for their dogs by planning relandscaping designs with both the humans and the dogs in mind. However, just adding a plastic kiddie swimming pool can bring your dog a great deal of joy. Trails. Cut a running path around the perimeter of your secured property, run the trail with your dog and you may find your dog doing zoomies on the trail without you! Tiered levels. Use hay bales or hollow logs to allow your dog to get a better view of the lay of the land. Dogs love to perch on high. Bird feeders. If you have dogs who may be stressed by visiting birds, hang bird feeding stations up high so that your dog can watch, putting the safety of the birds first. Sniffer patch. And last but not least, fill the sensory garden with safe, dog-friendly plants your dog can enjoy such as bamboo, chamomile, rosemary, mint, barley grass, lavender, and dandelion. Be sure to check every currently extant and newly planted tree and plant for toxicity to dogs.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 218, "chunk_index": 204, "id": "76472088-fa16-46ea-8c41-d803be41b620", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "o you ever get the feeling that your dog is talking to you? You are right. If you wonder what is going on in your dog’s head, and long to communicate interactively, here is a surefire way of connecting. Reading body language sharpens your ability to understand what your dog is feeling and communicating. Learn to read what your dog is saying to you and learn to speak to in a language your dog can understand. A wonderful and endearing characteristic of dogs is that dogs are truly honest and authentic about showing their feelings—they do not lie. Dogs wear their feelings on their sleeves!\n\nBody language is the communicative bridge between you and your dog. Start by listening rather than doing. Listen first, before doing anything to understand your dog’s state of mind, whether fearful or happy. Your dog’s body language is broadcasting clear giveaways to their feelings. Hone your observational skills to decode your dog’s messages. Do not ignore those messages. Respond with clear hand signals for effective communication. Dr. Lynn Honeckman, veterinary behavior expert explains, “We can learn to read the body language of dogs displaying happiness, curiosity, anxiety, fear and hostility. Even learning the basics of interpreting a dog displaying ‘approachable’ versus ‘stay away’ body language can be of the greatest benefit” (personal communication, 2015).\n\nBehaviors, such as hiding, freezing, or trying to move away in the opposite direction lets you know something is seriously wrong and change is needed. Change the situation so your dog can relax and learn. Here’s what to look for:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 220, "chunk_index": 205, "id": "0aabac44-1342-4683-b362-e776a5183678", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "Tails. A wagging tail does not necessarily indicate a dog is happy (Personne, 2015). A relaxed flag-waving tail often means “I love you” but a raised twitching tail or a tail held horizontal to the ground is most likely a warning and may be an aggressive display. Fearful dogs often display a low tail or tail tucked between the legs (Collins, 2007). The difficulty reading the “tail language” of a dog with a surgically cropped or stubby tail may put both you and other dogs trying to read the dog’s body language at a serious disadvantage. Ears. Floppy ears generally indicate calm, while erect ears mean “I’m on alert”. Your dog may be deciding how to react. Flattened ears are indications of fear telling you your dog is afraid. Body posture. Body posture is another emotion indicator. Forward leaning with a stiff body are warnings to stop whatever you are doing and to slowly back off. If your dog “freezes” over the food bowl, or fixates on another dog, a bite may follow. Vocalizations. Whining, growling, or barking indicates your dog is aroused and uncomfortable. Your dog is literally talking to you. Whines often mean, “I’m scared, help me” or “I want something”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 221, "chunk_index": 206, "id": "9ffe05ab-7c8a-4bd6-86eb-5ae1d9a1b6a2", "word_count": 203, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 263 } }, { "page_content": "whereas a growl is a warning. Barks have many different meanings, depending on the context. Listening for doggy disorders. Following you from room to room, attempts at escape to follow you, housetraining regression, or destructive behavior are some classic symptoms of separation/attachment problems. (See Chapter 22, Separation Anxiety.) Your dog is not a happy camper. Fears must be treated with very slow acclimation and exposure to the troubling stimulus. Use baby step desensitization for confidence building. Dogs with human aggression or serious dog/dog aggression problems need professional help. (See Chapter 17, Aggression.) You “talking back” with rewards. When your dog does something that you would like to see more of, such as sitting or making eye- contact on leash, capture it by immediately providing a treat. Rewarded behaviors are repeated. Reward what you like regularly and frequently to get more and more of what you want. Use luring with a treat to get a jump-start on a new behavior. You may opt to use a clicker for marking a behavior immediately before providing the reward.\n\nDeveloping a good relationship with your dog is a two-way street. Stay positive. Do not correct—redirect. Punishment and old school dominance training methods produce anxiety in your dog and can cause aggression or make a troubling behavior even worse. Looking at the world from your dog’s point of view will help you understand and respond appropriately so you can both be happy.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 222, "chunk_index": 207, "id": "c3d45d39-dc87-45f3-8e20-6e030750c115", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "Behavioral body language is the single most unmistakable indicator of dog emotions. Flooding with a frightening stimulus leads to attempts at running away, hiding, or to a shutdown. These responses are your dog shouting, “PLEASE STOP, I’M SCARED.” Victoria Stilwell, star of Animal Planet’s It’s Me or the Dog, explains what happens in situations where your dog is flooded with aversive stimulus and cannot escape. “In the majority of cases, flooding only makes a dog more anxious and forces the dog to adopt different coping mechanisms such as fighting or shutting down—where the\n\ndog becomes almost numb to the environment and behaves in a way that is truly out of character—an instinct that keeps him safe and ensures survival” (Stilwell, 2020. para. 4).\n\n“Training collars” are designed for handler convenience or employing dominance tactics causing pain or choking the dog. These types of harmful tools are used as handler short-cuts or restraint. Anger, frustration, egotistical “showing off,” or fearfulness on the part of the handler can result in harsh treatment where the dog experiences paralyzing fear. To the untrained eye, the dog may appear to be in a state of calm acceptance. In reality, misused equipment, intimidation, or restraint may cause a condition called tonic immobility, wherein fear is mistaken and mislabeled as “good behavior.” Tonic immobility is a condition of unresponsiveness occurring during significant stress. Tonic immobility may occur at a training facility, lesson, or class, at home, or in any situation where a dog is frightened. Charging ahead to get a frightening task “over with” such as grooming or a veterinary visit can easily backfire, resulting in fear, aggression, anxiety, escape and avoidance behavior, or tonic immobility.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 222, "chunk_index": 208, "id": "4bb7a13c-523d-4166-ade1-4911e7f8d802", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Tonic immobility can resemble shock and is characterized by a cessation of voluntary activity and may occur in any situation where your dog is seriously frightened. In the wild, tonic immobility occurs in response to an extreme threat such as being captured by a perceived predator. It sometimes\n\nresembles a posture suggestive of death but still maintaining an awareness of the environment (Fragkaki et al., 2016).\n\nThis handbook guides you in teaching your dog the behaviors you prefer. These preferred behaviors will be the behaviors your dog will naturally repeat to get the things your dog wants. Look for opportunities to say, “Yes!” Pay close attention to behaviors and actively identify and reward the behaviors your dog already does that you find desirable.\n\nConsistently reinforced by you, these behaviors will be repeated and become routine automatic responses, and moreover, eventually becoming habits! Here are a couple of rules to help get you started. Consistently reward desirable behaviors to let your dog know, “That’s great.” Practice each manners/obedience behavior 3–4 times a day for 3–4 minutes each session.\n\nReward the behaviors you want repeated. When a dog repeats a behavior, your dog is telling you the behavior was successful in the past to get what was wanted. Determine the relative value of each reward to your dog so you can adjust the delivery of reinforcement more judiciously. The more challenging the behaviors, the higher the reward value required. Changing emotional responses are generally the most challenging of all. Dogs may respond to a variety of reinforcements such as", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 223, "chunk_index": 209, "id": "8b10580c-69b9-4a76-a940-c5a3fb9144ac", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Treats, i.e., healthy high value food Food, such as biologically species appropriate kibble Chew-items Real-life rewards, such as going outside to play Walks Tugging on toys Playing Attention\n\nDo not inadvertently, that is, accidentally or unconsciously reward the behaviors you do not want. Use these non-aversive techniques for undesirable behavior: 1. Prevent or manage undesirable or dangerous behavior 2. Ignore undesirable behavior 3. Teach an alternate behavior to the undesirable behavior.\n\nIf Your Dog Has Difficulty Learning a Behavior, Most Likely\n\nYour technique needs improvement. Your dog does not understand what you want and is unable to read your signals. You are going too fast. Effective, dog-friendly training requires taking baby steps. One of the most common setbacks in training occurs because a pet parent is pushing ahead before their dog is ready to move forward. Your treats are not of high value to your dog. Increase the appetitive value of the food reward.\n\nRaising a new puppy can be a lot of work and you may be lacking sleep. If you find yourself getting frustrated with your new puppy, take a break but do not take it out on your puppy. Simply walk away for a few minutes and take a few deep breaths or take your puppy on a walk for some fresh air. You should both be having a good time!\n\nNote: So that we may become a more dog-friendly culture, force-free training has modified some of the traditional training language in an effort to change the way a pet parent thinks and feels about their relationship with their dog. Language is important because it affects the way we think and feel. Teaching good manners is now replacing the rather old-fashioned idea of teaching obedience for pet dogs. The use the of the word “command” is", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 227, "chunk_index": 210, "id": "814516af-86cb-4ddf-891b-df6cd2d1d613", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "no longer used because to give a command suggests that you are giving a military-style order to your dog. In force-free training, the word cue (as in verbal cue), signal (as in hand signal), or ask is used when describing your request of your dog.\n\nf you are reading this before you get your puppy—good for you! If possible, have everything prepared before your puppy comes home. Strive to set up your puppy for success at home from day one. Start off on the right paw and get a copy of the puppy primer by Dr. Ian Dunbar, Before and After You Get Your Puppy (2004). If you have added a new puppy or new adult dog to your household who was never reliably housetrained or who has regressed back to making mistakes, it is time to institute or revisit housetraining protocols.\n\nUse a housetraining plan your dog understands. From day one, the key words are containment, both short-term and long-term, and reward opportunities. Confinement in a carefully conditioned crate for night-time and in a small area during the day with an indoor sod tray or puppy pad is recommended until your pup earns more space in your home (See Chapter 22, Doggy Enrichment Land.) Frequent opportunities for elimination with food rewards will have your dog looking forward to getting on the leash to go to the chosen spot in your yard, eliminating for a yummy treat. The number one rule and the basis of force-free training is rewarding for the desired behavior rather than punishing for an undesired behavior. Plan to speed housetraining by devoting at least a long weekend to housetraining protocols. Being consistent about housetraining makes it easy for your puppy or new dog to understand the routine.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 229, "chunk_index": 211, "id": "66b8c90d-8a1f-45e2-ad08-5a3b5841e323", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "Make certain your puppy or dog has a veterinary wellness check if there is a sudden regression of house soiling or if you have continuing difficulty housetraining after following the protocols below. Rule out possible medical conditions, such as kidney disease or a urinary tract infection, which may be interfering with housetraining.\n\nThe Top 10 Do’s and Don’ts for Successful Housetraining (Michaels, 2017b)\n\nHere’s how to set up your puppy or new rescue for success:\n\n1. Do carefully condition your puppy or dog to use a metal crate or to a cloth crate on your bed with enough room to stretch out comfortably. When your puppy cries at night, get up and take your puppy to the elimination spot—either a sod tray or puppy pad near the door, or outside. Do not allow your puppy to eliminate in the crate. 2. Do limit your dog’s access to the house during the day unless your dog has recently eliminated. Contain your dog using a playpen with a sod tray or puppy pad when you are housetraining and when you are away from home. You may have a container of sod delivered weekly to your home, or\n\n“do it yourself” purchasing sod from a nursery and using a low-lipped kitty litter tray. An extra bedroom or the kitchen with a baby gate will also do nicely. This containment should feel like a Doggy Enrichment Land where your dog has everything needed for sustenance, elimination, and contentment.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 232, "chunk_index": 212, "id": "cfa39e09-79ea-42b6-b809-ea1a24b40fb7", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "Puppy pads are useful mainly for urination training, although some small dogs who live in condominiums also learn to defecate on puppy pads. Dogs naturally prefer a soil substrate for elimination. If your dog has been trained to eliminate on any other substrate, such as cement or puppy pads, retraining to eliminate on soil may be needed. Over time, as your puppy becomes housetrained, enlarge your dog’s space. If your dog has an accident, decrease space, but please be kind and expect occasional errors at the start. If your dog pees in his bed area, elevate the bed in the x-pen. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep! Do not allow your dog to roam around your home until your dog earns more space in the home—one room at a time.\n\n3. Do give your puppy a high value treat, then praise exuberantly each time your dog completes elimination in a proper location. Dr. Dunbar recommends giving three treats when elimination is complete. Use very high value treats for these successful events to make a powerful positive\n\nassociation in your dog’s memory and on learning. This is so worth celebrating! Do not ignore the successes. 4. Do remember your puppy is a puppy and will not have full bladder control until 16–20 weeks of age. Do forgive mistakes. Do not be impatient. 5. Do provide many elimination opportunities, at least once per hour for puppies, once every 2–3 hours for adult dogs, and also", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 233, "chunk_index": 213, "id": "2b4498cf-4b98-4858-af7b-f1a026506a63", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "Immediately upon rising in the morning Thirty minutes after your dog eats or drinks As soon as you walk into your home from work or other absences. Walk directly outdoors with your dog on-leash for a potty break before greeting your dog After playing with your dog After otherwise exercising with your dog Before bed Whenever you think your dog looks worried, is casting about, goes to hide or you think your dog might be getting ready to eliminate. Do not think that because your puppy can “hold it” through the night that your puppy can “hold it” during the day. That is an unrealistic expectation on your part and not true for your dog any more than it’s true for you. 6. Do use a non-startling, non-punishing interrupt sound, such as calling your puppy’s name if your puppy makes a mistake while you are watching. Completely ignore the mistake itself but turn the mistake into a correct response by bringing the puppy or rescue dog to the desired elimination area. Then as soon as your dog completes elimination in the proper area, provide a reward. If your puppy makes a mistake while you are not watching, just clean it up and do not allow your puppy out of your sight or without an available “toilet” again! Do not yell or stick your dog’s nose into an elimination error. Reprimanding or sticking your dog’s nose in urination or defecation does not teach your dog where to eliminate and may encourage coprophagia—stool eating (Horowitz, 2021). If you punish and frighten, your dog learns not to eliminate while you are watching and may hide somewhere to eliminate, such as behind the couch to escape your facial scowl and reprimands. 7. Do take your dog out on a leash. Allow your dog to choose a favorite elimination spot. Use the location each time. Allow no more than the length", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 234, "chunk_index": 214, "id": "eb219ad9-f218-4e86-a7b6-06cd5f32718a", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "of a 6-foot leash for your puppy or grown dog to decide on an elimination spot while you stand stationary. You may pace just a few short feet in one direction and then the other.\n\nAllow just 5 minutes of elimination opportunity. If your puppy or new dog does not eliminate, go back inside and confine your dog since your puppy’s opportunity window is over for right now. After 1 hour, try again for another 5 minutes.\n\nWhile your puppy is eliminating and relaxing the elimination muscles, let your dog know that he or she is on the right track by speaking a verbal cue in a very calm voice. I use, “Go Potty, Go Potty,” paired with elimination. Reward profusely! “Go Potty” can later become the trigger for elimination.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 235, "chunk_index": 215, "id": "2baeb069-1f01-4810-8b86-29762c257791", "word_count": 130, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 169 } }, { "page_content": "If your dog will not eliminate in your yard for some reason, try having another dog eliminate in your yard so your dog is likely to mark it with urine. Get a puppy pad scented with a scent trigger bull’s-eye and place it where you would like the elimination spot established. Do not let your dog outdoors to eliminate alone. Your dog may become easily distracted and find something fun to do outside, then come back and eliminate in the house. This won’t be your dog’s fault but says more about a faulty technique. By letting your dog outdoors alone during training you lose a valuable opportunity for rewarding and reinforcing good housetraining habits. 8. Do feed on a routine schedule to track your dog’s elimination needs. You may also remove uneaten food after approximately 30 minutes. Take note of your dog’s eating and elimination schedule. Do not allow your puppy to feed freely all day from the food bowl while housetraining. Note: Puppies should be fed three times per day and should have water available to them at all times. 9. Do clean up soiled areas thoroughly. Use a urine blacklight identifying every area in your home where your pet or another pet eliminated. If you do not remove your dog’s scent completely from a floor or carpet your puppy will consider that area a toilet. However, if a mistake does occur, you must clean up thoroughly. Your dog can smell his scent long after you can!\n\nHard surfaces. Use an enzymatic, live bacteria cleaner or diluted bleach, if safe, for urine removal. Test for possible floor damage first. Then, allow self-drying time and rinse with water thoroughly. Scent", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 235, "chunk_index": 216, "id": "fdbd732d-5fe3-472d-b7ec-bb2a336c8334", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "and stain removers alone will typically not remove residual urine molecules that your dog detects. Carpet, rugs, and upholstery. Removing scent from carpeting is notoriously difficult. Urine leaks through carpeting onto the carpet pad and into the wood flooring underneath if the floor is not vinyl sealed. If this happens in your home, housetraining may be significantly slowed or seemingly unachievable . . . but it is not your dog’s fault. Injecting a live enzyme pet odor remover with a syringe or replacing the item is recommended. Do not use household cleaners. They often contain ammonia and may make things worse by triggering your dog to eliminate in your home. Do not let your pup watch you cleaning up a mistake. Your dog may associate the waving of paper towels with playing.\n\n10. After the cleaning solution dries and has been rinsed thoroughly, place high value scattered food or your dog’s food bowl on a previously soiled area. Turn what was a rest/toilet area into a dinner table. Dogs do not normally want or choose to eliminate where they eat!\n\nIf your puppy is making frequent “mistakes” after three weeks of training and she is at least 12–20 weeks old—remember, it is not the puppy’s fault. Somehow, you are not communicating effectively in a language your dog can easily and clearly understand. Chances are\n\nYour technique is not quite right, or Your family members are not being consistent with the plan, or Your dog is sick and needs to see a veterinarian\n\nSupervise your partially house-trained puppy at all times. Your dog’s", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 236, "chunk_index": 217, "id": "bbe3ab0b-bdd9-4997-8c0e-f55c37561ff0", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "In the Doggy Enrichment Land or similar set-up with an appropriate elimination spot available On a leash attached to you Outside with you In a crate for night time training, after a decompression, bonding adjustment period\n\nEvery time you miss a sniffing or circling signal telling you elimination\n\nis about to occur, you increase the amount of time needed to housetrain.\n\nIf safe, installing a doggy door leading out to a secure area where you can supervise your dog is the most practical and kindest way of ensuring reliable housetraining. Your dog will thank you.\n\nAbove all, be patient with your puppy or dog. Your dog has much to learn about the new rules of living in a house but will learn quickly if you use the most effective techniques and if you are consistent, speaking to your dog in a language your dog can easily understand.\n\nRemove low-lying vertical objects. Identify marked items and clean marked areas thoroughly with a live enzymatic cleaner. Then, make the marked areas “feeding station/dinner tables” by scattering food on the ground. Supervise when your dog is in previously marked areas so that you may intervene if necessary.\n\nPuppy and Adult Dog Mouthing—Teaching “Kiss- Kiss”\n\nhe following techniques are effective not only for puppy biting but for mouthy adolescent and adult dogs, including wolfdogs, not openly displaying aggression. Teach your puppy or a mouthy adult dog that when teeth touch human skin, everything fun stops for an instant. The fun begins again when you dog is calm and/or practicing a behavior that is incompatible with puppy biting.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 237, "chunk_index": 218, "id": "ff8f6569-eb19-4fcf-9c2c-1dd54653b2d1", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Decrease the intensity of your play. For example, if your dog is on your lap, calmly place your dog on the floor at once. Teach the association between the “bitey” behavior and ending up on the floor!\n\nDecrease the duration of your play. Puppies and dogs get tired and get sloppy when arousal ramps up: there is a bridge between increased arousal and biting. You take a time-out for 3 minutes or until your dog calms down. This is not as punishment but a cooling-out break to decrease arousal. Begin calm play again as if nothing happened or give your puppy a nap break. Redirect the biting behavior using chew toys. Positively reinforce your dog for chewing on appropriate items. Do not “yelp” at your dog. This is popular, but bad advice. Yelping like a puppy increases rather than decreases arousal and can frighten your dog. Your dog knows that you are not a dog!\n\nRedirect puppy biting and adult dog mouthiness by teaching an alternative behavior that is incompatible with biting, such as licking your hand. Your puppy cannot do two things at the same time. “Kiss-Kiss” gives your puppy or mouthy dog the opportunity to use the mouth and interact with you but in a manner that is appropriate from your point of view.\n\nPlace a high value treat in your fisted hand Offer your hand. When your dog licks your fist, open your fist instantly so your dog can eat the treat/reward from the palm of your hand Once well-learned, get additional licks before you release the treat Say the words “Kiss-Kiss” as your dog licks your fist Cue the newly learned alternate behavior of licking if and when your dog becomes mouthy", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 239, "chunk_index": 219, "id": "eaacb2cb-4987-4b53-a30d-dfdec6f3a49c", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "“Mark” any teeth-touching to human skin with a sound, such as “Aw,” voiced in a disappointed, not an angry tone of voice. An angry “No” excites your dog even further or frightens your dog. The goal is to lower arousal. There is never a need to use fear to get the compliance you desire if you are practicing good technique. At the same time, remove all attention and reinforcement. Retract hands, turn both body and face away, and lean away, removing eye contact. Everything fun stops when teeth touch skin. Freeze for 3 seconds before calmly interacting with your dog again. Be certain the sound you make (“Aw”), is paired with the removal of attention. This will curtail the “bitey” behavior.\n\nUse the technique below for puppies or dogs that continue mouthiness\n\n1. Tether your dog to a doorknob. Kneel just near enough to your dog so that you can reach your puppy’s head, but your puppy cannot reach you.\n\n2. Follow the steps in the fun stops method above, but get up, turn around and walk a few steps away the instant your dog’s teeth touch your skin.\n\nUse a bitter spray on clothes if absolutely necessary after testing on the fabric. Do not apply to hands. You must maintain a consistently positive associations with people’s hands. Hands are good—they deliver treats. Your hands reach out to your dog and should always be associated with welcoming.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 241, "chunk_index": 220, "id": "9fa6ef5f-ca6a-480d-b0c7-7d7af9f3446b", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "Most dogs and certainly all puppies crave chewing. Chewing is a natural canine behavior with many benefits for your dog and you. Quality chew items such as interactive food toys, bully sticks, or durable bones provide appropriate activity and decrease stress. Chew toys ought to be either 100% indestructible or 100% digestible. Dogs need “occupational therapy,” says Dr. Ian Dunbar, DVM, animal behaviorist and puppy guru. If you do not give your dog something to do, your dog will find something to do and that something may be something you may not like.\n\nAlthough dogs are genetically hard-wired to chew, some dogs like chewing more than others. Encourage your puppy or dog to be a happy, busy, life-long chewer who enjoys chewing appropriate items rather than\n\nchewing on your valuables. Habits develop early and quickly, so start training your dog on the first day home regardless of your dog’s age.\n\nChewing is a species-specific, stress-relieving natural canine activity and often soothes teething pain. Favorite chew toys often act as pacifiers. Chewing is also a great outlet for pent-up energy. Chewing on a great bone can exhaust your dog because it’s such great exercise for the mouth, jaws, and forelimbs as well. Chewing stimulates healthy blood flow to the gums too and can help clean teeth. Lucky for you, chewing also helps distract and redirect your dog away from engaging in unwanted activities.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 242, "chunk_index": 221, "id": "f536d4f3-81d7-4bcd-b459-79882a845488", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "Puppy-proof your home and keep wires and cords out of reach or covered, or better yet, go wireless. Remove access to valuable items. Design a dog zone sanctuary, that is, a Doggy Enrichment Land using a playpen, exercise pen, or baby-gated area for your dog so you can run errands and sleep. Provide a doggy toy box and rotate three or four different favorite chew items every other day. If your supervised dog gets off track, redirect to a toy/chew box. Reinforce your dog with praise for playing with those chew toys. Use a bitter non-toxic taste aversive gel for items that cannot be protected from chewing, such as staircase bannisters.\n\nProvide interactive chew toys stuffed with high value foods. Try kibble soaked in beef broth. You may want to feed one half of your dog’s daily calories in chew toys or interactive food toys until your dog is chew toy trained. Long-lasting chewables include bully sticks and recreational bones that are not consumed, such as marrow bones, and knuckle bones. Go “wild” with caviar buffalo jerky, duck, and air-dried pork strips. Choose Made in the USA labels for high quality control standards. Interactive food toys, snuffle mats, and licking mats are some of the latest new favorite grazing items on the market. (See Chapter 10, Enrichment and Grazing Games.)\n\nhen your dog does not know what to do, your dog will likely choose the behaviors that you have rewarded in the past (Miller, 2004). Reinforcing desirable behaviors helps dogs develop habits that will create a better fit with our human lifestyle. Desirable behaviors frequently repeated become habits. Dogs love training the Do No Harm Dog Training way.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 243, "chunk_index": 222, "id": "8daae82e-ee6a-4580-a717-d24e6edc2717", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Laying the foundation by understanding and applying the basic principles below are essential to successful force-free training. Creating controlled environments, using food, and working in small increments leads to favorable outcomes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 245, "chunk_index": 223, "id": "625f3c05-61d8-44e1-9a6e-a38a2231866d", "word_count": 31, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 40 } }, { "page_content": "Distraction. Begin training in a location with few distractions, making training easy for your dog. A calm, quiet home environment enhances your dog’s ability to focus on you and on the lesson. Home is typically the best place to begin for the fastest results. Use food. Begin training sessions when your dog is a little bit hungry. Use small bits of high value food rewards. (See Chapter 7, Using Food as a Reward.) The Three D’s—Raising criteria. Slowly and incrementally continue increasing the level of difficulty of a skill or emotional response as long as your dog is clearly progressing. When your dog is responding reliably, increase the difficulty of Duration, Distance, and Distraction in small steps. Baby steps. Divide the behavior into small increments so that you and your dog achieve success at whatever speed or level of difficulty that works for your dog. If your dog is having trouble learning a skill, shape the behavior by finding creative ways to break the desired behavior into smaller and smaller steps. Verbal cues. After a behavior is well learned and reliable with a hand signal, you may add verbal cues before the hand signal. Teach your dog a verbal cue, such as “Sit” or “Down,” by saying the word first, followed immediately by the hand signal. Dogs want to find the shortest distance between A (your signal) and B (getting the treat). Your dog will quickly figure out that whenever the word “Sit” is spoken, it is always followed by the respective hand signal, therein, your dog learns to sit to the sound of the word “Sit” alone. Remember, dogs can separate meaning and intonation. Both the word meaning that is already recognized, and the intonation are strongly associated with the auditory reward center, so ask politely. Help your dog be successful. If your dog seems", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 246, "chunk_index": 224, "id": "7f1f2a07-fdb6-43bc-8117-28648b945e60", "word_count": 306, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 397 } }, { "page_content": "whenever the word “Sit” is spoken, it is always followed by the respective hand signal, therein, your dog learns to sit to the sound of the word “Sit” alone. Remember, dogs can separate meaning and intonation. Both the word meaning that is already recognized, and the intonation are strongly associated with the auditory reward center, so ask politely. Help your dog be successful. If your dog seems confused, go back to what your dog already does well. Slowly progress to a higher level of difficulty when your dog is ready. Make training fun. If you become frustrated, end the training session with something your dog does well. Do not train with your dog if you are upset. Training should be fun for both you and your dog! Trick training. You may want to continue adding new behaviors to your dog’s repertoire. Many dogs love performing tricks and teaching your dog a new trick is a great way for the two of you to bond and", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 246, "chunk_index": 225, "id": "e37c7d4f-0f23-4160-8551-4210304bfa96", "word_count": 165, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 214 } }, { "page_content": "have fun. Your dog will be both physically and mentally challenged each time your dog learns something new. Perhaps you like the way she cocks her head or the way she wiggles. Capture spontaneous behavior with a high value treat or a click/treat. Teach Ring Around the Rosie (weaving through your legs) or “Sit Pretty.” Tricks are a great way to hone your training skills as well! (Ray & Harding, 2005).\n\nBelow find some popular Do No Harm training methods: capturing, luring, shaping and using the Premack Principle. More than likely, you are already using the Premack Principle training technique, such as asking your dog to “Sit” before you open the front door. The amount of time and energy you spend training and the number of trials to criterion—how many repetitions are required to reach reliability, will depend in part on the techniques you use. You may find a fair and unbiased, well-referenced analysis that examines the benefits and drawbacks to both lure and free- shaped training in, “Are ‘Free-Shaped’ Dogs Better Problem Solvers?” (LeBlanc, 2015).\n\nCapturing a behavior occurs when you recognize and mark a desirable, spontaneously performed behavior with a high value treat: that is, a behavior your dog already naturally performs without any input from you. A mark is a sound, such as a clicker, or the word “Good” indicating the behavior will be reinforced by you. Capturing behavior may be used to train all basic manners skills and quirky behaviors that may otherwise be difficult to train, such as a tilt of the head. This sequence may be used for almost any behavior you like.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 247, "chunk_index": 226, "id": "44d9f70e-b7cb-4f52-a872-d0ae1f69c59a", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "For example, if you would like your feisty dog to lie down more often:\n\nWhen you notice your dog lies down for any reason, click/treat, or say “Good” and treat immediately. You may label the behavior by saying the word, “Down” as your dog begins to lie down.\n\nIf you want to capture “Down” more quickly, limit the space your dog has to find alternate behavior options. For example, take your dog into a small room, such as a bathroom with a rug. Distract yourself—hop online or read a book and just wait until your dog lies down. When your dog begins to lie down, say “Down.” When your dog completes the down with belly on the floor, immediately toss a reward just far enough away so your dog must stand up to fetch it. Your dog will get faster and faster at offering a “Down” once your dog realizes how to play the training game with you. However, capturing may be time-consuming for some behaviors because you need to wait until your dog performs the behavior you like without receiving much direction from you.\n\nLure/reward training is one the fastest and least complicated training techniques to teach basic manners skills and behavior modification. According to puppy guru and pioneer in positive reinforcement dog training, Dr. Ian Dunbar, DVM, PhD:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 248, "chunk_index": 227, "id": "c57f75b5-a07a-4e22-9def-4c5018afde12", "word_count": 220, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 286 } }, { "page_content": "For behavior modification and temperament training, food/lure reward training should be mandatory. There is extreme urgency to prevent and resolve behavior problems. Simple behavior problems such as housesoiling, destructive chewing, and excessive barking, kill dogs. Similarly, biting, fighting, and fearful dogs are hardly happy, or safe to be around, and so there is simply no time to mess around with time-consuming techniques. We must resolve the dogs’ problems, relieve their chronic, yet acute, stress levels, and improve their quality of life using the most time-efficient methods available. (Dunbar, 2007, para. 1)\n\nTypically, the best choice for both the lure and the reward is food. Interactive toys, such as a tug toy may be used as a possible alternate lure/reward for dogs who are more responsive to them, as seen in herding or working breeds. A complete sequence is\n\nLure with a treat and a hand-luring movement—the hand signal Reward with the lure Once learned, a verbal cue/request may precede the hand signal as your dog begins to anticipate the hand signal after the verbal cue is heard repeatedly. This is how dogs learn words!\n\nAfter 6 repetitions or so, if your technique is polished, the food lure is no longer necessary, and the dog will respond to the hand-luring movement (hand signal). Food lures should not be used for more than half a dozen trials; however, if your dog is having trouble learning a skill or performing it reliably, an alternating lure/no lure sequence may be used to get behavior back on track.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 249, "chunk_index": 228, "id": "19831246-fa8f-4323-9836-34901875561a", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Shaping is a powerful and practical training tool. Shaping is a process of teaching a new behavior by first reinforcing behaviors resembling the desired behavior, systematically moving toward the goal behavior one small step at a time. Shaping teaches new forms of behaviors building upon older forms of behavior. A dog is rewarded for successive approximations of the end-goal behavior and sometimes given a jackpot of rewards when the end- goal behavior is achieved. A sample using shaping to train is provided in the chapter that teaches “Down.” (See Chapter 16, Basic Skills.)\n\n1. Identify the end-goal desired behavior you would like to teach. 2. Identify a response that can easily be used to begin the shaping sequence.\n\n3. Reward the response. 4. Incrementally require closer approximations to the end-goal behavior, reinforcing each step until the goal is reached.\n\n5. Establish each step firmly with repetitions before moving on to the next approximation.\n\n6. If your dog “gets lost,” immediately go back to the easier, previous well-known step.\n\nFor example, if you want to teach your dog to lie down on a new rug, use the steps in shaping by rewarding your dog for walking in the direction of the rug, stepping one foot on the rug, then four feet on the rug, sitting on the rug, and then lying down on the new rug.\n\nUnderstanding how to use the Premack Principle in force-free training can help boost your success rate with some of the most difficult problems you may face with your dog. The most common everyday example of the Premack Principle is, “If you eat your vegetables, then you may have dessert.”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 249, "chunk_index": 229, "id": "4ecdbe19-8dbb-4284-a849-5b1d333ed210", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Professor David Premack’s first publication (1959) was a new theory of reinforcement. It argued that the more probable response in any pair of responses could reinforce the less probable response. Most likely, you are already using the Premack Principle if you ask your dog to sit for a treat. A hungry dog has a higher probability (HP) of eating a treat, and a lower probability (LP) of sitting: the opportunity to eat is dependent upon sitting,\n\nresulting in the reinforcement of the lower probability behavior by the higher probability behavior.\n\nAnything your dog really, really wants, may be used as the higher probability behavior, and serve as the reward, such as when your dog tells you in no uncertain terms\n\n“I too like cheese” “Please open the door already” “I want to go for a ride” “Play fetch with me” “Let’s lie on the couch” “I need to sniff the hydrant” “I was born to chase squirrels!”\n\nThese requests help you identify the types of reward/reinforcement that\n\nThe Premack Principle is commonly used when your dog wants real-life reinforcement. First ask for what you want, and then give your dog what your dog wants as a reward. Ask for the low probability (LP) behavior first (what you want) and then provide the high probability (HP) behavior (what your dog wants), which serves as the reward. One behavior reinforces another behavior. Here are some terrific examples provided by members of the Do No Harm Dog Training group.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 250, "chunk_index": 230, "id": "ae47e658-98da-45dd-ab0f-b100bd9d9050", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "If your dog sits when asked (LP), then your dog gets a treat (HP). If your dog sits and waits at the open door (LP), then your dog gets released to run outside in the backyard as the reward (HP). If your dog keeps a loose leash (LP), then your dog gets to sniff something as the reward (HP). If your dog comes when called (LP), then your dog gets released back to whatever your dog was doing as the reward (HP). If your dog cooperates with nail trims (LP), then you deliver high value treats intermittently as the reward (HP). If your dog drops the tug toy or ball when asked to, “Drop” (LP), then your dog gets to play tug or fetch with you again as the reward (HP).\n\nIf your dog looks at you when your dog sees a reactive trigger (LP), then you provide more distance or a high value treat as the reward (HP). If your dog ignores the triggers (LP), then your dog gets “throw downs” of treats to graze as the reward (HP). If your dog eats the treats instead of chasing birds (LP), then your dog gets to calmly watch birds as a reward (HP). If your dog settles on the indoor mat when you bring the mat outdoors (LP), then, your dog gets to “Go Play” outdoors as the reward (HP).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 251, "chunk_index": 231, "id": "3824501a-4cf1-4d01-bbff-b7f394789ee8", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "he end goal of basic manners training is to experience ease and harmony in everyday life with your dog. One possible concern about training with treats is that you may believe your dog will continue requiring treats for learning and performing each behavior. However, this should not be a problem. Smart, competent trainers are experts in preventing treat dependence. Although we train new behaviors on a continuous schedule of reinforcement—one trick, one treat, the schedule changes once a behavior is learned. For some behaviors providing food on a steady or intermittent basis, such as for a reliable recall (Come), is the best practice in maintaining happy voluntary compliance. Food is like money to your dog, and who works for free? Nobody. Operant behaviors are all tricks as far as your dog is concerned. However, some dogs, especially the working and sporting breeds frequently prefer a tug toy to a piece of food.\n\nUse real-life reinforcement, learn how to remove the lure, and discover how linking behaviors can enhance progress, gradually replacing some food rewards with other types of rewards. Begin giving random rewards of affection or praise for a job well done as part of your dog’s daily routines. Use these trainer secrets:\n\nYour dog wants to experience the joys of life just as we humans do. Identify and make use of one of the most powerful rewards: real-life reinforcement. Many dogs prefer play, such as a quick game of tug, over food. Here are some real-life reinforcement ideas to practice with your dog:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 254, "chunk_index": 232, "id": "eb4a0aa7-e6d0-4f1c-99ef-bf9cf7560ed1", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "Fetching. “Sit/Wait” . . . Throw the ball. The real-life reward is chasing the ball again after waiting.\n\nEating. “Sit/Wait . . . Okay” before meals. The real-life reward is eating breakfast and dinner. Going for a walk. “Stand/Wait . . . Okay” while putting on your dog’s harness and attaching the leash. The real-life reward is going for a walk. Going outdoors. “Sit/Wait . . . Okay” at each doorway. The real-life reward is going out the door. Going for a ride in the car. “Sit/Wait . . . Okay” before your dog gets into the car. The real-life reward is going for a ride. Getting out of the car. “Wait . . . Okay” before your dog gets out of the car. The real-life reward is getting out of the car and going somewhere with you. Crossing the street. “Sit . . . Okay” at the curb on a walk. The real- life reward is crossing the street and continuing the walk. Running and playing. “Come” and/or Name Response. The real-life reward can be a tug on a favorite toy or “Okay, Go Play” in the yard.\n\nMake a list of the items and activities your dog finds rewarding. You can easily modify behavior because you already possess access to the resources your dog wants, including the following real-life rewards you have identified.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 254, "chunk_index": 233, "id": "7aed6741-2046-4141-8657-71465c31bdf1", "word_count": 225, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 292 } }, { "page_content": "This is the step where many pet parents make mistakes and falter, and then say that their dog will only perform for treats when food is used as a lure in training. Once the new behavior is learned, stop using the treat as a lure. Instead, use the next treat for a reward. Here’s how: as soon as your dog can perform a behavior by following the treat with the nose (luring), remove the treat from that hand for the next trial. Now, ask for the behavior using the same lure hand-movement you were using. Then after you get the behavior, give the treat from the other hand. You have just taught a hand signal while removing the food lure.\n\nLink two or more well-learned behaviors together in a sequence, then reward. Agility competitions link a series of behaviors together and often provide a tug on a favorite toy at the end of the course as the reward. First, link two behaviors, then three, and then four.\n\nPlaying fetch. “Get It” . . . “Come ”. . . “Drop It”. . .“Sit.” Offer a treat or real-life reward such as quickly throwing the ball again.\n\nReplace some of the treats by gradually substituting with other rewards such as affection, massage, a toy, or an exuberant “good” for desirable behavior, if your dog responds strongly to praise and enthusiasm. Continue rewarding with food selectively throughout your dog’s life.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 256, "chunk_index": 234, "id": "eb7e4639-fd49-4d93-943d-f79c7da6a099", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "When your dog is learning a new behavior, reward (reinforce) every time the desired response is given. Continue treating after each correct response until your dog performs the behavior consistently when asked. A well- learned behavior will become a reliable response. Reliability in dog training generally means achieving an average success rate of eight out of ten times while keeping in mind that dogs are not robots. As soon as the behavior is well learned, begin treating randomly as random reinforcement is the most powerful type of reinforcement schedule. Your dog will continue offering the learned behaviors as long as you continue providing sufficient intermittent rewards. Here is an example of a sequence of phasing in random rewards:\n\nSit—Treat Sit—Treat Sit—Praise Sit—Treat Sit—Scratch on the chest\n\nBuild on this schedule until your dog gets a food reward one out of five times on average. Increase the difficulty of the task as long as your dog is happy and continues performing for you. Always substitute real-life reinforcement if there are no treats available.\n\nNote: Continue rewarding your recall/ “Come” cue as often as possible throughout your dog’s life, particularly when your dog is not near you and distracted. Maintaining a reliable recall under challenging conditions may be the most difficult behavior for your dog to perform reliably.\n\nClickers are most commonly used to teach new, complex, novel, and/or shaped behaviors. Not all trainers, clients, or pet parents want to use a clicker, but it can be a very useful tool when used in moderation.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 257, "chunk_index": 235, "id": "635d7c33-4847-432a-8318-999cf33eb37a", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "The clicker serves as a bridge, that is, a secondary reinforcement between your dog’s behavior and the reward. The sound of the clicker is an audible marker indicating a reward has been earned. You click at the same instant the desired behavior is performed. The click means, “That is right, a treat is coming!”\n\nThink of click/treat as one word. That is, if you click, you must give a reward. A click is your promise to your dog that a reward is coming.\n\nIf you make occasional clicking errors, do not worry, it will not adversely affect training as long as you treat after each click. One click = one reward. However, provide multiple treats (a throw down) for completion of a shaped behavior, or after your dog learns a more difficult behavior. Do not allow anyone else to use your clicker unless they understand and follow the clicker rules.\n\nUnderstanding the sequence of events in clicker training is necessary to the process. You must take the steps below in the following order:\n\n1. Get the behavior you want. Use luring, capturing, or shaping when approximating toward the goal of the desired behavior.\n\n2. Click. Mark the correctly completed or the shaped approximation behavior instantly with a click followed by a treat. You may substitute a word, such as “Good” or a click of your tongue as a marker if you do not want to use a clicker, or if your dog is afraid of the clicker sound.\n\n3. Reward. Reinforce your dog immediately with a small, high value treat.\n\nNow that you know the rules and the sequence of events, here are some salient tips to help make clicker training work efficiently for you and your dog:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 258, "chunk_index": 236, "id": "2f19510d-a596-4ee4-82a8-efbb9ed83a6f", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Use a soft clicker. If your dog is sensitive, be careful not to frighten your dog with the sound of the clicker. A soft-sounding clicker is always preferred. Dogs have very sensitive ears. Do not point. Do not point the clicker at your dog like a remote control. Instead, hold the clicker by your side, in a pocket, or even behind your back. Accurate clicker timing. Clicking on time (not too late) is important for communicating the precise instant of a desired behavior and indicating a reward is coming. A click marks the exact behavior that will be rewarded. A click is like a snapshot communicating to your\n\npet what they need to do with their body and muscles to get the treat/reward. Treat timing. Timing the delivery of the treat/reward/reinforcement is not as important as your clicker timing. A couple seconds of delay should not decrease the power of the click/treat association. Rate of reinforcement. Teach a maintain behavior, such as increasing the duration for Sit, by increasing the number of treats and the speed that you deliver them as long as your dog continues to Sit. Click/treat to end the maintained behavior.\n\nreetings may well determine the course of the relationships between you, your dog, and your guests. Protect all of those involved in greeting by ensuring all greetings go well. Your dog may be quite aroused and uncomfortable and does not know how to behave when you permit a “rush to the door.” Do not ask your dog to decide which of your friends feel safe. That decision is your responsibility. Dogs are not famous for making reliably good decisions. Your dog will thank you for not having the weighty responsibility of guarding the doorway.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 259, "chunk_index": 237, "id": "39a5f857-0763-406f-8c3e-fb2744cd33ed", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Greeting You and Other Family Members. Delay Greetings to Calm\n\nDelay your own greeting until your dog is calm so your greeting does not escalate the adrenaline spike your dog experiences the minute you arrive home. Walk into your home and go about your routine calmly. Greet your dog with calming affection rather than exuberant excitement. Smile and say, “Hello.” Calmly let your dog go outdoors to eliminate. Later, play! Many dogs stop jumping and display decreased symptoms of separation issues when this technique alone is consistently employed, but it can be the hardest behavior for pet parents to change!\n\nStart by managing your dog’s environment to get things under control. If your dog jumps on guests, growls, or shows any stress or aggression, confine your dog as a safety measure for your guests. Do not give your dog the opportunity to jump on or bark at your incoming guests. Give your dog time and space to calm down in a safe place and to accept the arrival of guests in the home before attempting to let your dog greet your guests. Confine your dog to an exercise pen (x-pen), the yard behind a sliding glass door, a guest room, or your kitchen with a retractable gate until your dog is able to greet visitors calmly. Then, bring your dog out on a leash and allow calm greetings to unfold naturally. Have guests toss high value treats to your dog, if safe, to speed and ease the process of acclimation and create a bond between your dog and strangers entering your home. Do not be concerned that this newly learned behavior will stop your dog from guarding your home from intruders. It won’t. Guarding is a genetically driven canid territorial predisposition.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 262, "chunk_index": 238, "id": "6689ffe2-153e-4a0f-8031-60525b0414a8", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "First, review the techniques above to calm your dog. Squirting water guns, shaking cans of marbles near your dog’s sensitive ears, and reprimands do not produce lasting results. Stepping on toes, kneeing the chest, electric shock, or yanking a chain are simply not acceptable options. These outdated methods can backfire, causing aggression and may well alter the joyful relationship pet parents want with their dog.\n\nWhat is a pet parent to do? Whether your dog has been jumping up on you for years, or you have a new puppy in training, try the dog-friendly techniques below to help your dog learn how to get what is wanted using\n\nbehavior you find desirable. Give your dog something to do, that is, teach a substitute behavior to replace jumping known as redirecting unwanted behavior. Learn new ways to give your dog what your dog wants when you get what you want. Preempt jumping by teaching your dog an alternative behavior which is easier and simpler in the long run. If you practice consistently, your dog will receive the attention your dog wants for appropriate greeting.\n\nIf your dog is about to leap into your arms uninvited:\n\n1. Treat, praise, and give calm affection for four on the floor. The instant your dog has all four paws on the floor, provide a high value treat. If your dog jumps up, stand up straight. These repetitions lead to a “light bulb moment.” If you are patient and your technique is good, your dog will figure it out. Withdraw interaction such as, touch, words, and eye contact for jumping. From your dog’s point of view jumping now pushes your “Go away” button, whereas sitting pushes your “Treat/pet” button!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 263, "chunk_index": 239, "id": "4c71c107-1867-46fd-8135-4f4323f32f55", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "2. Ask your dog to “Sit,” then calmly and immediately, treat and praise. Give the hand signal for the well-rehearsed Sit your dog already knows from practice in low-arousal training situations with you. Your dog cannot sit and jump at the same time. If jumping continues, turn,\n\nand walk away from your dog, and practice “Sit” more frequently in less emotionally charged situations.\n\n3. Direct your dog to run directly to the dog “cookie jar” instead of jumping on you. As soon as your dog sees you, consistently walk directly to the “cookie jar” and ask for a “Sit.” Toss the treats in a spray. Make this the new routine for greeting.\n\n4. If your dog comes rushing at you from a distance, teach an alternate behavior to jumping that allows your dog to expend energy. Teach your dog to target your hand by holding your palm down at the height of your dog’s nose and a few inches away from your body. When your dog’s nose touches your hand, reward as long your dog performs the nose-touch, and does not jump. Happy wiggles are encouraged! If jumping continues, use a baby gate as a barrier which can be helpful to practice homecomings without jumping.\n\n5. Take time-outs to relax. Lastly, if your dog jumps up on you or your guests regularly, and you have not trained an alternative behavior yet, set your dog up in a nice area with a chew toy, or time yourself out by leaving. Time-outs allow your dog time to happily calm down so you can try again next time, however, time-outs are not to be used as a punishment.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 264, "chunk_index": 240, "id": "7697f441-4293-4ef9-8fe4-d74cbf99d098", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "If you touch or make exciting sounds, even screeching in pain when your dog jumps up on you, your arousal inadvertently teaches that jumping is fun. If you occasionally greet your dog with affection when your dog jumps on you but occasionally get upset when your dog jumps, you are sending confusing mixed messages. Help your dog understand your desires by sending consistent, calm, and clear messages in a language your dog can understand.\n\nTwo great ways to easily teach Sit are capturing and luring. (Learn more about capturing, luring, and shaping in Chapter 14, Training Techniques.)\n\nCapturing Sit. Capture Sit and provide a reward. Reward sitting whenever your dog sits as a normal part of daily activities! Luring Sit. Use food first as a lure and then as a reward. Hand signals are easier to understand than words because dogs are experts at reading body language but not so great at spoken languages. Remove the food lure as soon as possible and transition to food as a reward as soon as you can get a reliable Sit. If you do not remove the food lure promptly, your dog may not learn the behavior but will just follow the treat with the nose and Sit only when you have a treat near the nose. This can be easily avoided by following these steps:\n\n1. Start with your dog facing you on-leash in a quiet location with a minimum of distractions.\n\n2. Show your dog a small, high value treat (the lure) at nose level, and slowly raise it slightly above and then just behind your dog’s head.\n\n3. As your dog’s eyes follow the path of the treat, your dog’s rear will move towards the floor.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 265, "chunk_index": 241, "id": "b130f247-2640-4fe8-a86a-71e873a18c6e", "word_count": 286, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 371 } }, { "page_content": "4. Mark the Sit with the word “Good” the instant your dog’s rear end rests on the floor, and reward immediately with the treat.\n\n5. As soon as your dog is successful at Sit when following the food lure, it is time to remove the food lure from your hand and use the hand movement alone you have used for Sit, this time without luring your dog with a treat.\n\n6. Morph and shape your hand signal by bending your arm at the elbow from your side up to your shoulder, palm facing toward your face, and move your hand upward. Shape the Sit hand signal to your standing position bit by bit. This is the traditional hand signal for Sit.\n\n7. Click/treat or “Good”/treat immediately after a Sit is performed. 8. Release your dog saying, “Okay,” or another release word of your choice such as “Free.” If your dog does not stand up from the Sit after saying your release word, take a step back and call your dog to you. Reward for coming when called!\n\n9. When your dog Sits reliably with the hand signal, you may teach the word cue “Sit” by saying, “Sit!”, then immediately giving the Sit hand signal.\n\n10. Practice rewarding Sit at least 5 times per day with the hand signal for a few days, and periodically after that.\n\nA behavior can be taught in tiny steps by clicking with a clicker, or otherwise marking, for successive approximations of the end behavior you want to see. In other words, you are rewarding small, incremental steps on the path to the goal behavior. Shaping is an excellent opportunity to use a", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 267, "chunk_index": 242, "id": "2617be37-ebe8-4534-9381-83dc9cde3c42", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "clicker effectively. Click/treat or “Good”/treat for each approximation which is closer to the end-goal behavior than the last performance.\n\n1. Teach and ask your dog to “Sit” first. 2. Squat or kneel in front of your dog. 3. Shape a body language signal in the form of the letter “L” by placing the treat at your dog’s nose level, and then slowly bring your hand to the ground in a straight vertical line down to your dog’s toes. Now, slowly draw your hand horizontally across the floor toward yourself, luring your dog forward with the treat. The goal is that your dog reaches one foot forward at a time while the rest of the body remains on the floor—click/treat!\n\n4. Lure your dog to move the other foot forward—click/treat. 5. Continue luring until your dog is in a crouching position—click/treat. 6. When the belly touches the ground—click/treat. 7. Remove the treat lure at the very earliest possible trial. 8. Gradually stand up by using incremental small steps. 9. Use the Down hand signal, which is the reverse of the Sit signal: your arm moves down, palm facing down, with a sweeping motion in front\n\n10. After the behavior is well learned, you may add the verbal cue “Down” immediately before giving the hand signal. In time, your dog will respond to the verbal cue, “Down.”\n\nThe most common problem for dogs learning Down is the dog’s rear end rising upwards during shaping: if the rear end pops up, do not reward with a treat but begin again with Step 1. Proceed slowly mastering each successive approximation before moving to the next level of difficulty. Polish your technique. If your dog does not understand what you are trying to teach, it is your responsibility to make the steps smaller, thus communicating more clearly to your dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 268, "chunk_index": 243, "id": "658fc694-8bf3-47d2-bc99-ce952b7e8252", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "Here’s a hot tip for training small dogs and relieving your aching back: train Down for your small dog on a raised surface such as the couch which may be more comfortable for you and easier on your back.\n\nYour dog is not truly relaxed in the standard sphinx Down position, so your dog may tend to pop back up. Observe your dog at rest and train a “Relax” cue to your dog’s favored resting hip, right or left side. Be consistent with cueing and reinforcing to the naturally favored hip. Try this:\n\nAsk your dog to “Down” using the hand signal and/or verbal cue. Use a treat to lure your dog’s nose back and around toward the opposite side of your dog’s favored hip. Shape the movement bit by bit. Click/treat the instant your dog rests on the favored hip. Repeat again and again. Remove the treat lure at the very earliest possible trial and begin using the lure as the reward after your dog performs the desired behavior.\n\nTeach your dog to relax by using your dog’s own naturally occurring behavior, capturing and rewarding a Settle Down. The goal is that relaxing becomes an automatic behavior when you sit down or make the Settle Down request. An automatic behavior is also called a default behavior in force-free dog training. Settle Down is highly effective for use in desensitization and counterconditioning when teaching emotional and behavioral modification in the face of triggers such as other dogs and wildlife when appropriate thresholds are established. Follow these steps:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 269, "chunk_index": 244, "id": "8a3dabd1-7af8-405b-bc81-1f90dd3b86af", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Sit with your dog on leash beginning in a low distraction environment. Allow just enough leash, approximately four feet, for your dog to sit and lie down on a warm, soft surface, such as a mat or a rug. Do not interact with your dog. Do not look, touch, or talk. Wait patiently for your dog to sit. When your dog sits or lies down, immediately reward with a high value treat. Wait for your dog to lie down. When your dog lies down, drop a few treats between your dog’s paws. “Sneak” treats between your dog’s paws when your dog is not looking. Learning is accelerated if your dog does not observe you placing the treats between the paws. Continue providing rewards intermittently as long as your dog remains in the down position.\n\nAfter the behavior is well-learned, you may add the “Settle Down” cue, such as pointing and saying, “Settle Down” in a kind tone. Practice capturing and rewarding Settle Down 3 times per day.\n\nWait/Stay is one of the most useful tricks your dog will ever learn. Wait means “do nothing.” Teach your dog Wait/Stay in the Down position first, which is typically more relaxing. This is easier than teaching Sit/Wait or Stand/Wait first: these iterations may be added later. You want each and every attempt at Wait to be successful.\n\n1. “Sit,” then “Down.” 2. Give the Wait hand signal: that is, make a fireworks burst type movement with your palm facing toward your dog’s face. Say the word “Wait” at the same instant. Your dog is already doing the behavior of waiting. All you do now is increase the level of difficulty.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 270, "chunk_index": 245, "id": "ffc424bb-e4c1-49e4-adab-a48d9d3d16f0", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "3. Increase Duration first, then Distance, Distractions, and Disappearing. separately—The 3 Ds plus one. Increase Duration first to 20 seconds, bit by bit without moving.\n\n4. Always repeat the hand signal and verbal cue when you increase the level of difficulty.\n\n5. If you think your dog is about to get up, give the Wait hand signal and verbal cue, intermittently. Repeating the signal is perfectly acceptable and helpful when raising criterion. However, you need not give reminders often.\n\n6. Watch your dog as you move just one foot distance away (Distance). Now return to your dog and reward. Your dog will know you are watching and be less likely to get up.\n\n7. Always come back to your dog, rather than calling your dog to “Come” to you. At this stage in training, if you call, your dog will anticipate your call rather than relaxing into the Wait. After the\n\nbehavior is well learned you may call your dog to you, perhaps one out of three times.\n\n8. Always release your dog by giving the verbal cue, “Okay” or the release cue of your choice.\n\n9. After Wait is well learned in the down position, graduate to Wait in the sitting and standing positions.\n\n10. Practice in various positions, such as standing to the side of your dog or away from your dog.\n\n11. Practice in real-life situations including at doorways, before getting into the car, and at curbs on walks before crossing the street.\n\nStay is not necessarily a different behavior from Wait, but rather a difference in duration. Wait is defined as a few seconds or a short period of stillness, whereas Stay means a longer period of perhaps a few minutes. A puppy may need to mature a bit to learn a long stay. Use a bully stick or other favorite chew item when practicing longer Stays.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 271, "chunk_index": 246, "id": "4e9b45a1-df65-4025-bc21-33da0bef89a5", "word_count": 311, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 404 } }, { "page_content": "There are very few situations, if any, where it is necessary to put your unleashed dog in a long Stay. It is kinder and safer to keep your dog on a leash. Using Stay to show off to others or dominate your dog must not be the focus. Teach behavior for practical purposes to make life with your dog happier for both of you.\n\nDogs perform best on the reward system. Always reward when your dog comes to you. Make coming to you, known as recall, fun and rewarding, one small step at a time. Each time your dog Comes to you when you call your dog’s name, reward your dog with a high value treat. You may substitute some meal calories for training calories. Using food in training helps your dog learn quickly. Practice regularly and frequently. It’s imperative to involve the whole family to assure consistency in training.\n\nName Response is one of the most useful skills you can teach your dog. Name Response is the first piece of teaching “Come.” That is, getting your dog’s attention focused on you with a head turn first.\n\n1. Make a game of this training exercise having everyone in the family call your dog, one person at a time, in a round-robin circle. Mix it up. 2. Click/treat or “Good”/treat when your dog turns her head toward you. 3. Graduate to hiding then calling your dog’s name, and let your dog find you! Watch the glee on your dog’s face as your dog learns to respond and comes running to you.\n\n4. Practice Name Response at least 10 times per day.\n\nStart with easy Comes. Begin training inside your home and progress slowly, week by week, to more challenging environments. Start by using a big hand signal from just 3 feet away.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 272, "chunk_index": 247, "id": "5a2eec95-7dea-4f58-8c71-31d5e3dc5882", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "1. Call your dog’s name from a short distance. 2. When your dog turns the head toward you, give the “Come” verbal cue. The point at which your dog makes the decision to come toward you is a point at which a click or verbal marker teaches that turning toward you when called will earn a reward.\n\n3. Treat as soon as your dog reaches you from a very short distance, graduating step-wise over time to longer distances.\n\n4. Add Sit to the routine when your dog is ready to link Sit with Name Response and Come. This often happens quickly if you have taught a solid Sit.\n\n5. Increase distance, vary distractions, and vary locations in small increments.\n\n6. Later, work outdoors in an enclosed area or with a 20, 35, or 50-foot leash until recall is reliable.\n\n7. Always reward when your dog comes back to check in with you without being called.\n\n8. Once learned, use recall throughout the day to cement it. 9. Do not bounce back and forth between a sugary-sweet, singsong, “Come, Blinky,” and a frustrated, commanding, “Blinky, Come!” Your dog won’t trust that coming to you is a wise idea.\n\n10. Never punish when your dog answers your call to “Come.” Do not clip nails or medicate after calling your dog to you. Do not scold your dog for being slow to Come. Do not leave the dog park immediately. First, reward for coming; play a minute, and then do what your dog dislikes, if necessary. Recall multiple times throughout a park visit, so recall does not always mean leaving the park. Otherwise, your dog will learn that “Come” means something unhappy happens after heeding your call, so your dog may run the other way when you call!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 274, "chunk_index": 248, "id": "57e2a058-a039-4a81-8f4c-49fdc43e2903", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "11. Practice Come and reward in four 3 minute sessions per day.\n\nMaintain realistic expectations for your dog. Some breeds naturally wander farther than others. If you train your dog to “Come” followed by dinner, your dog’s ears will perk up when your dog hears those words in other contexts, too! Watch a video of wolfdog Smokey learning Lightning Recall (Michaels, 2015b).\n\nPractice Come indoors first, then in your yard. Add distance and distractions incrementally (baby stepping), building to more challenging locations and situations.\n\n1. Call your dog’s name. 2. Squat down to your dog’s eye level so you will be in your dog’s line of vision when your dog hears your call and looks up.\n\n3. Give the Come, arms-wide-open signal, using a big up-down, up- down sweeping gesture your dog can see from a distance. I prefer the arms-wide-open signal that looks as if you are flagging a race car for a pit stop or bringing in an airplane. You want your dog to be able to easily see and recognize the signal from afar.\n\n4. Reinforce and keep your dog on track by saying “Good, good, good” while your dog is in the process of coming to you.\n\n5. Click/treat or “Good”/treat enthusiastically and liberally every time your dog Comes whenever you are able to do so. Once well learned,\n\nyou can use the verbal signal “Go Play” as a reward in your regular practice trials as well.\n\n6. Later add the voice cue, “Come” as your dog is coming toward you. After your dog has learned to come to your arms-wide-open arm signal alone, add the word “Come” while your dog is in the act of coming to you. You are pairing the behavior of coming to you with the word “Come.” This is how your dog will learn the meaning of the word.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 275, "chunk_index": 249, "id": "5e34f8e7-592f-49c7-8d4b-6ac4740304ad", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "7. Practice the backyard to indoors Come regularly. Walk directly to the refrigerator to get a little piece of string cheese and make this part of your routine!\n\n8. Practice long distance Come at least 3 times per day. A truly reliable recall with many distractions in the environment, such as at the dog park, requires time, practice, and consistent reinforcement with high value rewards at lower levels of intensity.\n\nLearning Come outdoors is the hardest request for your dog to respond to consistently, particularly with high distractions. Having a long distance outdoor Come cue is very important. Practice so your dog responds quickly and enthusiastically to your call. One of the most popular ways of teaching a Lightning Recall is using a whistle as the signal cue. Standing directly in front of your dog, blow the whistle softly and follow up immediately with a treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Next, slowly increase distance and add distractions in small steps, as long as your dog continues to respond reliably. Whistle training is an excellent way to train a lightning recall if and when you reach a safe leash-free recall level.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 276, "chunk_index": 250, "id": "0e3184c7-4fd0-48f2-b160-0821ff4ddbea", "word_count": 189, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 245 } }, { "page_content": "Safety, comfort, and stress reduction are the most important criteria when selecting equipment used for training leash-walking skills. The use of equipment causing stress or pain, such as choke, prong, or electronic shock collars, is antithetical to Do No Harm training and is harmful to dogs. These devices are at odds with the positive relationships pet parents are developing with their dogs. Studies show these devices cause, rather than cure aggression, and otherwise worsen behavior. Additionally, medical research shows that pressure on the neck may cause injuries that include cervical spine injury, burst capillaries in the eyeballs, foreleg nerve damage, and damage that affects the function of the esophagus and trachea, causing breathing impairment (Overall et al., 2006). A standard flat collar is acceptable to hold identification tags but not as the attachment point for the leash.\n\nWear your treat bag or carry a pocketful of high value treats such as cheese bits or hot dogs while teaching leash-walking so your dog develops a habit of focusing and connecting with you while on leash.\n\nMost right-handed pet parents walk their dogs on their left side, leaving their right hand free to open doors, greet others, or carry a package. Professionals typically walk dogs on their left side. However, choose whichever side you are most comfortable with and be consistent. Ideally, choose the side to walk your dog that everyone in your family agrees upon.\n\nThe easiest way of achieving successful leash-walking begins by starting down the right path with the right equipment early in your dog’s life: however, loose-leash walking may be learned at any age. The following equipment is recommended:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 277, "chunk_index": 251, "id": "b01178e3-62d8-41ba-894e-74568ce71629", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "A front, back, or double-clip harness is recommended for all dogs and puppies, including dogs who have developed a habit of pulling on the leash during the walk. An X, Y, or H style harness provides the best mobility, prevents chafing, and allows free movement of the limbs and proper gait. Some trainers prefer the back clip on these styles because of possible mobility and gait issues. Small dogs that do not pull may prefer a step-in harness. Most veterinarians strongly recommend a harness rather than a collar for all brachycephalic breeds with a short muzzle. These dogs are already susceptible to upper respiratory breathing issues, so they breathe easier without the added pressure of a collar around the neck, as do all dogs.\n\nA four or six-foot leash is recommended for leash-walking contingent upon your dog’s skill and the situation. The longer leash provides your dog the freedom to make choices and is often preferred for training loose-leash walking. The shorter leash is recommended for dogs who bark and lunge on leash for safer control, if necessary, to prevent hazards.\n\nTo improve loose-leash walking skills, practice training off-leash indoors first, teaching your dog to walk close to you. Below find two of the basic principles for successful loose leash-walking:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 278, "chunk_index": 252, "id": "159ef891-4c24-4bec-a871-ef8b3f140d50", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "1. No pulling, no thank you. Do not go where your dog pulls you! Instead, when your dog pulls, stop walking. Change direction the instant you feel pressure from your dog on the leash: stop, plant your feet, and pivot, making a 180-degree turn in place and begin walking again, while saying “Let’s Go” (see below). Click/treat when your dog is at the correct location after catching up to you. If you allow your dog to pull you, you are inadvertently reinforcing pulling during walks and your dog responds by pulling harder. Your consistency in not following your pulling dog is very important.\n\n2. Maintain a connection between yourself and your dog while out on walks. Dogs often become environmentally fixated when there is so much to see, hear, and smell. Actively maintain your bond with your dog while out on walks. You are taking a walk together.\n\nWalk from the stationary position. Use the term “Let’s Go” signaling your dog that something different is going to happen on the walk. “Let’s Go” means, “I am leaving, and you are coming with me!” Practice “Let’s Go” whenever you move from a stopped position while on walks. “Let’s Go” is the green light. It also has the effect of a turn signal before making a change in direction. If you use this phrase often, your dog learns what it means, while sniffing and it is time to go, when you are planning to cross the street, or when leaving another dog and continuing your journey. It is so exciting when you and your dog work as a team!\n\nUse Name Response when you want to get your dog’s attention immediately for any reason while leash-walking. Call your dog’s name while on leash. Teach your dog to look at you for further instruction, as a check-in behavior while on walks, and to redirect fixation on other dogs, distractions, or stressors.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 279, "chunk_index": 253, "id": "7e349038-d044-4d51-8c79-bf8945b0d9bb", "word_count": 318, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 413 } }, { "page_content": "2. The instant your dog makes eye contact with you, mark it with a click/treat, a “Good”/treat, or simply a treat.\n\nReward your dog generously in some way for both looking at you automatically without being asked and for looking at you when you use Name Response. Start marking and rewarding whenever your dog freely offers eye contact while walking on leash without calling your dog’s name. You can click/treat or just treat. Turning toward you when called and making eye contact without being asked are highly desirable behaviors your dog can do while leash-walking and keeping a connection with you. The goal is having your dog check in with you frequently.\n\nYou want your dog to learn that walking slowly and calmly with you is rewarding. Walking at the slow pace of a human generally must be taught to dogs. It is not natural for a healthy, young dog to walk slowly: if it were up to your dog, your dog would be zigzagging and circling everywhere you go. The slower the better to start. Do not let your dog rush you. You should decide speed, direction, “sniff-sniff” breaks, and when and where to stop, although going on walks letting your dog choose the route is one type of valuable enrichment of choice and can be fun for you too. Try it!\n\nMany interesting, complex, agility, and service dog behaviors begin using a target. The purpose of hand-targeting for leash-walking is a technique of using your hand as a target for your dog to follow. That is, teach your dog to follow and touch your open hand with the nose while you are both in the leash-walking position. The presentation of your hand is both the hand signal and the target to be touched.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 280, "chunk_index": 254, "id": "f315f498-8280-433a-a2d7-62307305cc9d", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "1. Begin by practicing off-leash at home with no distractions. 2. Stand in standard leash-walking position with your dog at your side and your dog’s head near your leg or knee or a slight bit behind you.\n\n3. Hold your left hand down at your side if you are right-handed. 4. Teach your dog to touch your palm with the nose. The first step may be simply a glance at your hand. You may wiggle your hand until\n\nyour dog touches the palm of your hand with the nose. Or rub your hand with a little bit of food to lure your dog to touch the palm of your hand. Click/treat or “Good”/treat any movement toward your hand.\n\n5. Add the word “Touch” as your dog touches the palm of your hand with the nose.\n\n6. Take one step forward, say “Touch,” and mark the touch the instant your dog touches the palm of your hand with the nose. Reward.\n\nHand targeting is useful for teaching many other behaviors. Present your hand with your palm facing outward. Then add distance, change direction, change hands, and add distractions. Other practical uses for hand targeting in addition to leash training include\n\nSpeeding up or slowing down while leash-walking Coming to your hand Standing in back of you Getting on or off the couch Ringing the bells as a request to go outside: place your open, target hand behind the bells\n\n17 Aggression Prevention, Assessment, and Treatment", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 280, "chunk_index": 255, "id": "76dbfce8-0f57-412b-ab8a-6ceaf12f916b", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "aying a foundation for success with emotional and behavioral modification means having realistic expectations of your dog particularly with children and other dogs. Although you rightly consider your dogs to be family members, at the same time, dogs in reality are a unique and distinctly different species. Understanding what drives, motivates and may frighten your dogs is your responsibility and is the first step toward becoming a good pet parent and trainer. If your dog has an aggression issue of any kind, be sure your dog gets a wellness check from your veterinarian to rule out any underlying medical conditions, previous injury, or other causes adversely affecting behavior or causing pain.\n\nYour dog speaks to you through body language—ear and tail carriage, posture, behavior, and vocalizations. Your dog may be experiencing an overload of stress and telling you with body language and behavior. If so, avoid any potentially dangerous situations while you begin a scientifically endorsed behavior modification program. In their “Position Statement on Puppy Socialization”, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) advises, “Classes and at-home training should be based on positive reinforcement with frequent rewards, praise, petting, play and/or treats. Positive and consistent training is associated with fewer behavioral problems and greater obedience than methods that involve punishment and/or encourage human dominance” (The Process of Socialization, 2008, para. 3).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 285, "chunk_index": 256, "id": "258b00dd-7f28-44ee-a741-de3af150b03a", "word_count": 222, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 288 } }, { "page_content": "Use The Hierarchy of Dog Needs pyramid when identifying behaviors indicating that your dog may be experiencing unmet needs. For example, if the need for secure attachment, trusting humans, or play are under-met behavior problems will inevitably arise. Address these needs using the force-free methods listed in The Hierarchy of Dog Needs. Make certain your dog is getting sufficient exercise, proper nutrition, social interaction,\n\nmental stimulation, and novelty on a daily basis. If these basic needs are not met, stress increases.\n\nThe best way to prevent aggression is practicing a program of careful, frequent, and regular socialization from a young age, if possible, especially during the sensitive period of socialization, 4–12 weeks of age. In addition, prevent traumatic experiences by carefully managing socialization. Avoid flooding. Assess your dog’s experience at the veterinarian and groomer as possible contributing factors to aggression. Get in-home care or be the first appointment of the day. Bring treats. (See Chapter 9, Socialization.)\n\nStress is an underlying cause of aggression. “Stress matters,” says Diane Garrod, developer of the first, systematic, canine stress release protocol, Stress Release For Dogs: The Canine Emotional Detox. She tells us:\n\nWhat is occurring in the dog’s body is important to understanding why releasing stress is so important. Stress can cause a dog to aggress and cause a dog to exhibit a number of other behaviors, such as licking, over-barking and hyperactivity. Stress might be looked at as the equivalent to human burn out. Hans Selye, considered by many as the father of the study of stress (Selye, 1936), said that a direct relationship exists between chronic stress and excessive wear and tear throughout the body. (Garrod, 2021)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 285, "chunk_index": 257, "id": "80368152-f2d8-427b-95b6-9ffc2a17bcfc", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "In over 600 case studies, Garrod found that releasing stress results in longer-lasting behavioral change first, faster progress, helps with better retention, and guides the practitioner in individualizing emotional and behavioral modification protocols.\n\nSafety first is always the most important rule when it comes to aggression. Management is the first step in any aggression treatment program. Additionally, management can always fail, so it is not enough, but rather the place to begin getting behavior under control. Avoidance can be a good\n\nmanagement tool, but it does not treat the underlying drives and motivations of aggression or lead to any long-term or permanent change.\n\nWhen addressing aggression, teaching just a few basic manners skills is optimal. However, the foundational skills below should be rock solid. Get these behaviors reliably learned and you can avoid a great deal of trouble. Learn alternative behaviors to reactivity:\n\n“Let’s Go.” Teach this verbal cue to initiate an immediate 180° U-turn to walk away and stay under threshold. Name response. Automatic eye-contact with a head turn, also known as checking in with you.\n\nBe sure to use only dog-friendly leash-walking equipment. Muzzle train if your dog continues posing any threat to people or other dogs and for use in emergencies\n\nGreetings often determine the course of the relationships between your guests and your dog. Dogs are not famous for making reliably good decisions. That is your responsibility! Protect your guests and your dog so that greetings go well:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 286, "chunk_index": 258, "id": "9d9950a6-fb14-486c-b17b-fead2ab8fb81", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "First, allow your dog to calm down in a secured area to acclimate to visitors being in the home before attempting greetings. This alone will help your dog and your visitors as well. Do not answer the door with your dog when your dog may be uncomfortable and does not really know how to behave. Your dog should not have the responsibility to decide which of your friends, and certainly not which dogs feel safe, and which do not.\n\nProvide your dog with high value treats such as cheese or healthy hot dogs, that you initially feed in the secure space when guests arrive. Later, if safe and practical, have your guests toss your dog treats. You must protect your guests by not giving your dog access to them, unless and until: 1. Your dog appears entirely comfortable with them. 2. You have advised and instructed your cooperative guests about\n\nNever bring a new dog into your home and just “see how it goes” (Richmond, 2004/2019). This all-too-common mistake can set up your dogs for a lifetime of squabbling or worse. Your resident dog is well established as the only child. Abruptly adding another dog or a puppy into the household as a visitor, a foster, or a newly adopted dog can easily lead to territorial aggression. Serious resource guarding between the dogs may erupt if your resident dog feels that an intruder has just invaded the home. Ideally, introduce each dog to the other’s scent and allow each dog to acclimate to the other’s scent before you house the dogs together. Follow these cardinal rules:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 287, "chunk_index": 259, "id": "6932193f-d1dc-4d56-a912-edff2a48dbc4", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "Set up separate, secure areas for each dog. The dogs should not be allowed any eye contact whatsoever. Switch their scent articles such as old-t-shirts, blankets, and toys to the other dog’s area. You may also use Nicole Wilde’s “rag wipe” technique. Wipe a rag around dog A’s anus near the main scent glands, then wipe that same rag around dog B’s shoulders and rear. Now do the same with dog B (Wilde, 2018). This mixes their scents for recognition of familiarity. Then, switch living spaces and yard time, giving each a chance to leave scent without seeing the other dog. Later, let your new dog roam around the house and yard leaving scent. Now, allow your resident dog to do the same thing. Repeat this again and again daily until you see little to no reaction to other dog’s scent by either dog, especially your resident dog. This process may take days or weeks. Patiently using this process right from the start, while carefully observing body language, can\n\nsave yourself and your dogs, years of heartache, angst, and trouble. If you have advance notice, place the cloth in a self-sealing plastic bag and freeze to preserve the scent, then deliver to the other dog’s current residence, packed in ice.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 288, "chunk_index": 260, "id": "02951b27-f040-4358-a201-c6d0122a7d5b", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "Take your leashed dogs out for a parallel walk, walking side-by-side, with handlers on the inside. The configuration should be from left to right: Dog A, Human A, Human B, Dog B. This technique introduces your dogs on neutral territory with a positively reinforcing activity, so your resident dog is less likely to consider your new dog a territorial intruder. A different individual must handle each dog. The technique of parallel walking includes plenty of time for sniffing, then gradually moving them closer together as long as both dogs are clearly under the threshold of reactivity. Now, allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few short seconds, separate and continue the walk, with high value reinforcement being provided to each dog by the handlers.\n\nAllow the dogs to meet on neutral property, such as a friend’s yard, leash- free, or dragging their leashes with a high level of supervision and intervention, if needed. If meeting on leash, let the dogs sniff and greet each other very briefly—a few short seconds, then break. Rest and then repeat until you feel confident both dogs are comfortable with each other.\n\nIf all has gone well, allow the dogs to have free access to one another as long as they continue socializing properly without incident.\n\nThere really is no such thing as a “nip.” Even an air snap is considered a “bite”, albeit the lowest on Dr. Dunbar’s Bite Scale: An assessment of the severity of bites based on evaluation of wound pathology (Dunbar, 2007–", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 289, "chunk_index": 261, "id": "e3b048c5-6556-4748-a2e6-e31f7f40ce7e", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "2020). However, an air snap is nonetheless a bite-display of warning. If you see displays of aggression in your dog, do not wait to address the problem. Aggression is not something your dog will outgrow. The longer you wait, the more difficult, or perhaps impossible, modifying aggressive behavior will become. Once the momentum for aggression has begun, it is likely to snowball with an increasing risk of a person or another dog getting bit. Conversely, it is more likely to decrease or disappear if addressed promptly and competently.\n\nAggression may be categorized as either defensive or offensive, although the lines are not always clear. Many dogs will go on the offensive out of fear to protect themselves from a perceived threat. However, understanding what is driving the aggression may be helpful:\n\nDefensive fear-based aggression. The bark-lunge seeks to keep frightening people or dogs further away, called distance increasing behavior. Offensive-based aggression. The bark-lunge seeks to inflict injury going out of the way to attack another, called distance decreasing behavior.\n\nOn-leash aggression Off-leash aggression Territorial aggression Fence-barrier aggression Resource guarding aggression Sibling rivalry aggression, also known as multi-dog household fighting\n\nWhen assessing the severity of aggression, you will need to examine the bite factors below using the resources provided:\n\nContext, that is, understand the nature of the triggering antecedent Ameliorating and exacerbating factors Predictability Warning displays, or lack of warning displays", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 290, "chunk_index": 262, "id": "1a052362-a01b-4d5a-8b2d-a495f4e296e6", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "The duration of time between a warning and a bite The Dog Bite Scale: An assessment of the severity of bites based on evaluation of wound pathology, by Dr. Ian Dunbar, DVM, PhD (2007). Dog-dog Bite Hierarchy, by Cara Shannon (2020).\n\nOnce all of the people who interact with the dog are on the same page with force-free training, the dog can better predict human behavior and as a result people can better predict the dog’s behavior. Remember, not all dogs care for other dogs and we should not expect them to be social butterflies. It is just not fair. After all, sociability in people varies widely between individuals too.\n\nAttempts to escape a situation or person, by moving away, or walking away are indications your dog is feeling threatened and is politely asking for the perceived threat to end. Change what you are doing before you trigger or exacerbate the propensity for aggression. Below find some behavioral signs that can alert you that trouble may be coming. Do not ignore these behaviors, body language, or vocalization communications and warnings:\n\nBiting Lunging at people Lunging at other dogs Fighting on-leash, or off-leash Guarding food, toys, people, space, or other Stalking\n\nRaised hackles (hair on the back and neck), also known as piloerection Body stillness, freezing/rigid body Head down, and body erect standing tall Hard stare, fixation Raised lip\n\nPuckered muzzle Show of teeth Ears pricked forward, or ears flat back Tail flared, held straight out, or held high, vibrating, or fast wagging", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 291, "chunk_index": 263, "id": "b93b9e84-ca42-4dc4-88eb-48e2b5939c1e", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "Refusal to take treats is a very good indication your dog is over-threshold and more distance, and less intensity are needed to stay under-threshold.\n\nThere are no guarantees with behavior; however, working with a competent force-free trainer in managing or mitigating aggression can be a wise first step. If aggression has progressed, is repetitive, or if there have been any bites, your dog needs the attention of a behavior professional treatment. Contact your force-free trained aggression specialist or your veterinary behaviorist for individualized and\n\ncustomized treatment plans. Search the Pet Professional Guild behavioral consultant guide by zip code (2020a).\n\nWhat Behavior Consultants Should Provide in Aggression Cases\n\nA complete background, history, and an incident report are recommended for dogs who have bitten a person or another dog. A thorough assessment will include examining each bite and the circumstances surrounding it, understanding the triggers, and the ameliorating and exacerbating features of the bite incident. A professional emotional and behavioral modification treatment package should include these elements:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 292, "chunk_index": 264, "id": "c8fbf6fe-b343-479a-8827-f751da8082d7", "word_count": 165, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 214 } }, { "page_content": "A health assessment request, and medical clearance by a trusted/Do No Harm veterinarian Background/history and incident report analysis. See the Assessment Intake for Behavior Consultants below. Safety and greeting templates. Aggressive dogs should be secured away from visitors to the home. The trainer and guests must be protected by not allowing a dog access to guests until a treatment plan with an aggression behavior specialist is developed. Both human and/or dog-dog bite scale assessment examining severity and bite style based upon wound pathology, frequency of incidents and bite/release factors. A thorough explanation of the factors contributing to aggressive behavior: Genetic, improper or insufficient socialization during the critical sensitive period, or traumatic experiences from the dog’s perspective. Other common causes of aggression include a failure in meeting a dog’s real needs, and using training methods other than those in The Hierarchy of Dog Needs, such as shock, prong, or choke collars that have been shown to cause rather than to cure aggression. Understanding liability. Each state, and most counties have their own liability laws and regulations for dangerous and vicious dogs. For example, California has a strict liability statute. The statute states that a dog’s owner can be held liable for injuries caused by a dog bite “regardless of the former viciousness of the dog or the owner’s\n\nknowledge of such viciousness” (California Legislative Information Civil Code, 2020). Dog body language communication and analysis of vocalizations (See Chapter 11, Dog Body Language.) Desensitization and counterconditioning techniques aiding in both emotional counterconditioning and behavior-substitution learning for the dog", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 293, "chunk_index": 265, "id": "cf51d3e2-3273-4f37-8462-bd4f5a25f774", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "Assessment Intake Questionnaire for Behavior Consultations\n\nThe Assessment Questionnaire is divided into six sections. Please complete all of the sections that pertain to issues you would like to address with your dog(s) and provide concise, yet complete, behavior information. Thank you.\n\n1. Background Information 2. Aggression with Humans (including Resource Guarding) 3. Aggression with Other Dogs—Dog-Dog Aggression 4. Separation Anxiety and Fearfulness 5. Annoyance Problems, such as: Barking, Marking, Pulling on Leash and other\n\nWhat is your primary reason for contacting a behavior consultant/trainer? • Secondary reasons?\n\nCircle the regular visitors that your dog interacts with, such as: • Friends • Employees • Housekeepers • Personal Assistants • Landscapers Please describe any specific difficulties with visitors.\n\nAge when your dog joined your family? • If chosen from a litter, why did you choose this puppy? • If chosen from a rescue or shelter, why did you choose this dog?\n\nWhen was the last time the dog with the primary behavior problem had a complete veterinary wellness exam? • Has your dog had a complete veterinary wellness exam after the onset of the problem behavior? Does your dog have any medical conditions that may impact training? Circle the ones that apply. • Hearing Loss • Vision Loss • Hip dysplasia • Arthritis • Other\n\nIs your dog taking any medication? • Please provide the name of the medication and dosage, or over the counter (OTC) product\n\nMay I have your permission to discuss your dog’s case and progress with your veterinarian? Yes/No", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 294, "chunk_index": 266, "id": "690cfe75-5d86-4861-a1fd-d0f076652bca", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "Circle all that apply • Classes • Private • Boot Camp\n\nHow successful was the training? • What did you like about the training? • What did you dislike about the training? How do you define “correction?”\n\nIn what ways have you corrected or disciplined your dog for unwanted behaviors?\n\nWhich basic manners skills does your dog already possess?\n\nWhich basic manners and obedience skills would you like your dog to learn, if any?\n\nHas your dog been boarded? • Describe any emotional or behavioral changes you may have noticed upon your dog’s return home, if any. • How long was your dog boarded? At what facility?\n\nBrand of food. Please have food-packaging labels available for evaluation.\n\nDaily Feeding Schedule: • Once • Twice • Three times\n\nEating Behavior. Choose one: • Normal • Picky • Gulping\n\nHow would you describe your dog’s energy? • High • Medium • Low\n\nWhich leash-walking items do you currently use? • Harness • Flat Collar • Head Halter • Martingale Collar • Shock Collar • Prong Collar • Choke Collar • Retractable Leash Describe you and your dog’s typical on-leash walking experience\n\nWhat type of regular exercise does your dog get? • Walks • Backyard • Fetch • Dog Park or Beach • Playing with Household Dogs • Other\n\nHow much time per day does your dog spend outside? • Supervised • Alone\n\nPeople. On a 1–5 scale with 1 being the worst, and 5 being the best, please rate your dog’s socialization skills with people.\n\nHow does your dog greet strangers coming into your home? Is it a problem?", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 296, "chunk_index": 267, "id": "7db12a1a-2c6f-48dc-89c7-796701064782", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "Children. If you have an infant or toddler in the home, please describe • Your dog’s behavior toward the child • Your child’s behavior and feelings toward the dog • What role do you play as supervisor, facilitator, or intervener? • Describe what behavior has occurred with the children that concerns you.\n\nOther dogs. On a 1–5 scale with 1 being the worst, and 5 being the best, please rate your dog’s socialization with\n\nHave there been any dramatic changes to your dog’s home or surrounding environment recently, such as: • Construction • Move • Death • Birth • Other\n\nList your dog’s favorite things, such as: • Treats • Affection • Belly Rubs • Toys • Other\n\nDoes your dog have a special place to relax, away from an otherwise noisy environment?\n\nWhat does your dog do there, such as: • Sleep • Guard • Watch Birds • Chew\n\n(Aggression with Other Dogs is addressed separately in Section 3.) Complete this section if your dog has aggression problems with you, other family members, strangers, children, men, guests, other people, or reactivity (barking and lunging) at moving objects such as: skateboards, bicycles, joggers, trucks, motorcycles, cars, other.\n\nDoes your dog have a bite or “nip” history to people? Yes/No • How many bites?\n\nHow long has your dog been showing aggression? How long has your dog been… Circle those that apply: • Biting • Snapping • Growling • Posturing • Guarding • Stalking • How old was your dog when the first bite to a person occurred?\n\nHow does your dog feel about being touched? • Are there areas of your dog’s body that are sensitive to your touch, such as:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 297, "chunk_index": 268, "id": "d519e436-0065-4f1c-88c6-37cc190fb0be", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Did your dog have any traumatic puppyhood experiences that you know of?\n\nDoes the aggressive behavior limit you or your dog’s daily activities? How so?\n\nDoes your dog bark/lunge at people while on leash? • Under what circumstances?\n\nDoes your dog grab onto you or other people with the mouth? • Do you feel teeth when playing, hand-feeding, or in other interactions?\n\nDoes your dog “guard” from the inside of your home, such as… Circle those that apply: • Sitting at the window to bark at passers-by • Guarding the perimeter of your fenced yard?\n\nDoes your dog guard the entryway to your home, or fail to calm when guests enter your home?\n\nDo you or a family member play tug, or wrestle with your dog?\n\nBite Incidents. Please answer the following questions to the best of your knowledge detailing bite incidents. A bite incident is considered any interaction or altercation where your dog uses its mouth to inflict injury. Please provide one bite incident report for\n\nA. The most Recent bite to a person B. The most Severe bite to a person C. The Chronic, ongoing nature of the human aggression D. Resource guarding items from people\n\nWhere did the incident take place? Was it in your home, the sidewalk in front of your home, elsewhere?\n\nDid your dog make contact with the person’s skin or clothing, tear the clothing, or break the skin? Circle all those that apply.\n\nWhat type of clothing or shoes, if any, covered that body part?\n\nWhat was the proximity of the body part to your dog’s mouth? That is, did your dog jump up, or move or to reach the body part, or was the body part directly near the dog’s mouth?", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 299, "chunk_index": 269, "id": "63d9d0f0-24aa-48b2-b7fb-001643b78244", "word_count": 289, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 375 } }, { "page_content": "If yes, what type of treatment was necessary? • Emergency Room • Sutures/Stapling • Surgery • Other\n\nCircle the best way to describe the bite • Air-snap • Bruising no Puncture • Scratching • Tearing. • Lacerations • Puncture and Release • Puncture and Hold • Puncture and Thrash • Multiple Punctures\n\nIn your estimate, what percentage of the dog’s sharp canine teeth entered the body • Less than 15% • 15–30% • 30–50% • More than 50%\n\nWhat were the circumstances surrounding the bite, that is\n\nWhat was happening before the bite? What did your dog do after the bite? What did you do with your dog after the bite?\n\nList your previous attempts to address aggression and resource guarding of people and/or treatment or diagnosis from other animal professionals.\n\nWhere did the incident take place? In your home, the sidewalk in front of your home, elsewhere?\n\nDid your dog give a warning before biting, such as… Circle all those that apply: • Attempt to escape • Prolonged growl • Short Growl • Air Snap • Body Language Display • Other\n\nDid your dog make contact with the person’s skin or clothing, tear the clothing, or break the skin?\n\nWhat type of clothing or shoes covered that body part, if any?\n\nWhat was the proximity of the body part to your dog’s mouth? That is, did your dog jump-up, or move to reach a body part, or was the body part\n\nIf yes, what type of treatment was necessary? • Emergency Room • Sutures/Stapling • Surgery • Other\n\nIn your estimate, what percentage of the dog’s sharp teeth entered the body • Less than 15% • 15–30% • 30–50% • More than 50%", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 300, "chunk_index": 270, "id": "96c043f1-e143-4e4f-a2b1-1659439b4519", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "What were the circumstances surrounding the bite, that is:\n\nWhat was happening before the bite? What did your dog do after the bite? What did you do with your dog after your dog bit the person?\n\nC. Describe the Chronic Nature of the Human Aggression\n\n1. Does your dog guard resources from people such as:\n\nFood Bowl • Rawhides • Toys • Bed • You • Other People • Other items or locations\n\nCircle the best answers. 2. List the other items that your dog guards from people\n\n3. Describe specifically what happens if you try to take a high value item from your dog? Circle all the options that apply: • Nothing. • Snarl • Growl • Air-Snap • Bite\n\nPlease answer the following questions to the best of your knowledge for bite incidents. A bite incident is considered any interaction or altercation where your dog uses its mouth to inflict injury. Please provide one bite incident report for\n\nA. The most Recent bite incident to another dog B. The most Severe bite incident to another dog C. The Chronic, ongoing nature of aggression to other dogs D. Resource guarding items with other dogs\n\nDid your dog give a warning before biting, such as… Circle all that apply: • Attempt to Escape • Prolonged Growl • Short Growl • Air-Snap • Body Language Display • Other\n\nHow many times has your dog been involved in dogfights?\n\nHow many of these fights resulted in a veterinary visit due to injuries?\n\nIs there “sibling rivalry” in your multi-dog home between pets?\n\nYour previous attempts to address the problem and any diagnosis from other animal professionals.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 302, "chunk_index": 271, "id": "826a05da-922f-4093-a353-f529c673f013", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Did your dog give a warning before biting, such as… Circle all that apply: • Attempt to Escape • Prolonged Growl • Short Growl • Air-Snap • Body Language Display • Other\n\nDid this fight result in a veterinary visit due to injuries?\n\nC. Describe the Chronic Nature of the Aggression to Other Dogs\n\nDoes your dog guard resources from other dogs, such as… Circle all that apply: 1. • Food Bowl • Rawhides • Toys • Bed • You • Other People • Other\n\n2. List the items that your dog guards from in-house dogs or other/stranger dogs\n\n3. Describe specifically what happens if one dog tries to take a high value item from the other dog, such as… Circle all that apply: • Nothing • Snarl • Growl • Air-Snap • Bite\n\nPlease describe your dog’s specific behaviors 1. As you prepare to leave the house 2. After you leave the house, if known 3. Upon your return\n\nWhich of the following apply to your dog when you are gone? Circle all that apply. • Self-inflicted injuries or mutilation, such as wounds from biting paws or flank • Attempts to escape the home • Housetraining regression • Destructive behavior • Barking, crying, whining • Staring out the window awaiting your return • Other\n\nPlease describe how bonded you are to your dog, that is: • How many hours per day do you spend together, on average? • How many hours spent apart, on average? • Are you crating your dog for Separation Anxiety?\n\nPlease describe your emotions and behavior toward your dog when you 1. Say “Goodbye” as you leave the house 2. Greet your dog as you arrive home", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 304, "chunk_index": 272, "id": "db4a0063-6a34-414c-aa2f-ca86e50c75db", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "What limitations does separation anxiety cause to you or other family members? List your previous attempts to address the problem and any diagnosis from other animal professionals.\n\nCircle all that apply. Please describe any fearful behaviors, body language, vocalizations or circumstances that appear to be a problem • Attempts to run away\n\nAttempts to hide • Displays of submission or appeasement such as:\n\nTail between the legs • Excessive licking • Crouching or crawling • Rolling over to expose the tummy area when in fearful situations such as a tap-out/go away request\n\nPlease describe each problem you would like to address with training and treatment. Circle all that apply. • Housetraining • Barking • Jumping • Mounting • Puppy Biting or Mouthing • Marking • Pulling on Leash • Basic Manners • Other/Explain\n\nAre there social dynamics within the family that may impact consistency in training?\n\nDescribe your and other family members’ willingness to participate in training.\n\nThe statements contained in the Assessment Form above are true to the best of my knowledge.\n\nNames of Client/Pet Parents (Please Print) ____________________\n\nSignatures of Client/Pet Parents ____________________\n\nProcedures called functional analysis and behavioral diagnostics are now on the cutting edge of treatment in pet dog behavior modification. In How Dogs Learn, functional analysis is defined as the “process of analyzing the interaction between the environment and behavior” to develop an efficient treatment plan for the dog (Burch & Bailey, 1999, p. 94).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 305, "chunk_index": 273, "id": "6428a52e-378c-4b69-85de-739dcfe46d86", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "In research, case studies are single-subject designs, often used in applied settings such as dog training. On the other hand, laboratory research, uses a sample population of many subjects comparing the subjects and/or groups to each other. In determining whether a treatment is effective in a single- subject examination and in research investigators compare the data before the treatment to the data after the treatment in the same dog(s) in what is referred to as an ABA design:\n\nA = Before Treatment B = Treatment A = After Treatment\n\nFunctional analysis looks at the cause of the behavior, not just the behavior itself. Developing a treatment plan requires understanding the function of the behavior, i.e., the purpose of both the antecedents and the consequences that are driving the dog’s behavior. We ask two questions:\n\n1. What is motivating the behavior? For example, is the dog seeking to communicate a need, such as the need to eliminate or a need to escape? Is the dog seeking reinforcement such as water, food, or chew toys? Is the dog seeking attention? Is the dog seeking sensory reinforcement, such as novelty?\n\n2. What is maintaining the behavior? For example, is the dog finding the behavior reinforcing by accessing food, toys, or escape? Is the dog\n\nreceiving attention? Is the dog receiving sensory reinforcement, such as sniffing?\n\nThe process of conducting a functional assessment is comprised of the following steps, as explained succinctly by Niki Tudge, founder of the Pet Professional Guild (Tudge, 2015, p. 151–155.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 307, "chunk_index": 274, "id": "9a5bf4f0-cfa8-47e8-9fe6-495fda5c2d60", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "2. Direct Observation Stage Behavior observed Relationship between the variables measured\n\nDetailed in simple terms Antecedents Behaviors Consequences\n\n4. Contingency (If/Then) Statement. The information gathered in 1–3 above leads to a statement that defines: How the behavior is evoked and How the behavior is maintained\n\nLiability Contract Template for Behavior Consultants\n\nLIABILITY RELEASE AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK AGREEMENT\n\nThe undersigned on behalf of any and all participants authorized or permitted to attend any lessons, agrees to defend, indemnify and hold harmless your dog trainer/behavior consultant ____________________ (hereafter referred to as the “RELEASED PARTIES” or “TRAINER”) and agents from all liability and damages for any claim, loss, or injury, which may occur or may be alleged to have occurred to any person, animals, or property arising from or related to the training, consultations or lessons. The Client agrees that TRAINER, the owners, officers, employees and agents, will not be liable for any injury, death or property damage resulting from the training, counseling, or advice supplied to Client by TRAINER.\n\nThe TRAINER reserves the right to refuse training any dog that is obviously sick, abused, neglected, or overtly aggressive. Trainer cannot guarantee any individual dog’s ability to learn and/or understand training cues or signals or to desensitize to fear or aggression triggers. Furthermore, the Client agrees that non-compliance with the recommendations of TRAINER constitutes non-liability to the trainer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 308, "chunk_index": 275, "id": "fe505744-4fac-4934-ae87-b2b9c71e3029", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "Acknowledgement of Risk. Client is aware of the present and continuing inherent risks of injury, death, and property damage to Client, Client’s Dog(s), and persons and Dogs of third parties that are involved, and those not involved, in the activity of training, including without limitation risks due to dog bite or infectious disease. Client acknowledges that the Dog’s behavior now and in the future is solely Client’s responsibility. Client is voluntarily engaged in training as an activity with knowledge of the known risks and other risks that may result from Dog’s participation in training,\n\nincluding but not limited to injury, death, or property damage from disease, stray dogs, running away, other dogs in training, other animals, or injury, death, or property damage caused by Dog to other dogs, animals or persons.\n\nAssumption of Risk. If Dog causes property damage, or bites or injures any dog, animal or person, including but not limited to the RELEASED PARTIES, during or after the term of this Agreement, Client agrees to assume full responsibility and liability for any injury, death or property damage, and Client agrees to pay all resulting losses and damages suffered or incurred, and to defend, indemnify, and hold harmless the RELEASED PARTIES from any and all resulting claims, demands, lawsuits, losses, costs of expenses, including attorney’s fees.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 309, "chunk_index": 276, "id": "8cbd089b-d37a-4a52-bbad-a54950e1493a", "word_count": 217, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 282 } }, { "page_content": "Release of Liability. Client releases RELEASED PARTIES from all liability to the Client, and Client’s representatives, guardians, successors, assignees, heirs, children, and next of kin for all liability, claims, damage, or demands for personal injury, death, or property damage, to the Client or to the Client’s Dog(s), arising from or related to this Agreement or to participation in training, whether the injury, death, or property damage occurs on or off the training site.\n\nKnowing and Voluntary Execution. Client acknowledges that he or she has carefully read this Agreement, understands its contents, and understands that this Agreement includes an assumption of the risk of Client’s Dog, and a release of liability. The undersigned acknowledges that the RELEASED PARTIES are materially relying on this Agreement in allowing the Client to participate in the activity of training. Client acknowledges that TRAINER has not represented, promised, guaranteed or warranted that Dog will never bite, that Dog will not be dangerous or vicious in the future, that Dog will not exhibit other behavioral problems, or that the results of the training will last for any particular amount of time. Only a written instrument signed by both Client and TRAINER may amend this Agreement.\n\nThe statements contained in the Assessment Intake form are true to the best of my knowledge. I acknowledge that I fully understand the terms and provisions of this Waiver, Assumption of Risk and Agreement to Hold\n\nHarmless and that I am setting my hand hereto delivering the same freely and voluntarily and unconditionally. Cancellations with less than 72-hour notice may incur a Cancellation Fee of 25%.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 310, "chunk_index": 277, "id": "cde11457-ac3b-4e76-8946-18059957fd91", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "Your electronic signature and return of this assessment constitutes your agreement to the above clause of non-liability.\n\nCopyright ©2022 Linda Michaels. With permission from FAR Beyond Training.\n\nVeterinary Behavioral Report for Behavior Consultants\n\nIf you are working with a veterinarian who is referring clients to you, you may want to provide them with an update of your assessment, treatment, and future lesson plans for the referred dog. Here’s an outline of what a report might include for your referring veterinarian.\n\nAssessment tools Functional assessment intake including bite incident reports Specific body-area sensitivities assessment\n\nWhat is driving the behavior? What is maintaining the behavior?\n\nFear desensitization Desensitization to handling Written materials provided to the client Recommended reading\n\nIndications for co-operative care with the referring veterinarian Future lessons planned\n\nManagement of Triggers at Home, At the Veterinarian, and At the Groomer\n\nBe sure your dog is eating a biologically appropriate and nutritionally balanced diet, maintaining sufficient and friendly social interactions, mental stimulation, play and novelty enrichment on a daily basis. Refer to The Hierarchy of Dog Needs pyramid. Fear cannot be ruled out as a motivation\n\nwhen your dog displays offensive posturing and territoriality. Avoid exacerbating reactivity in your dog in the following ways:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 311, "chunk_index": 278, "id": "e60008e2-71be-4170-bdd0-5f72b2c102de", "word_count": 202, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 262 } }, { "page_content": "Remove guarding stations at windows, doorways, outdoor fencing, and gates. Guarding stations are areas where your dog can watch for, commonly known as “lying in wait,” or anticipate people and/or dogs passing by. Eliminate guarding stations in your home and yard preventing aggression from developing and generalizing to other situations involving strangers and other dogs. All dogs are genetically hard-wired to guard the home, but some breeds are more predisposed to do so than others. Remove the opportunity for fence fighting aggression with neighbor dogs by using visual barriers, double-barriers, or only allowing your dog outdoors when the neighbor dogs are not outdoors. Remove the opportunity for aggression towards neighbors when you and your dog leave or enter your home by changing your schedule, using the back door, or otherwise rearranging the environment. Assess your dog’s experience at the veterinarian and groomer as possible contributing factors to dog-dog reactivity. Get in-home mobile care or schedule the first appointment of the day and bring treats. (See Chapter 8, Gentle Veterinary and Grooming Care, for Desensitization Protocols.) Stop feeding from a bowl and use half of your dog’s daily calorie ration for training alone. Use high value treats, such as healthy hot dogs, air-dried meat, cheese, boiled chicken, or whatever healthful food your dog values above all else.\n\nIn “Lunging, Barking, Biting, Oh My” the founder of the Canine Research Studies group, Rebekah Hudson, MPH, CVT, emphasizes the critical need for understanding thresholds and trigger stacking when using force-free methods for emotional and behavioral modification. Hudson stresses the importance of choosing the best leash-walking practice location which", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 313, "chunk_index": 279, "id": "f82cd46b-b00b-4a57-819c-adc84c612cd0", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "minimizes trigger stacking. Use muzzling desensitization for safety and peace of mind (Hudson, 2019b).\n\nThe amount of time it takes to see improvement in aggression varies\n\nSeverity of the reactivity Your dog’s responsiveness to training The amount of time you devote to practicing emotional and behavioral modification protocols\n\nDesensitization and Counterconditioning Techniques\n\nFor the aggressively behaving dog, desensitization and counterconditioning (D&CC) decreases aggression and increases acceptance of people, other dogs, moving objects, and novel situations. D&CC is the gold standard for aggression treatment.\n\nThe desensitization and counterconditioning process occurs when your dog is exposed to a fear, aggression, or hyperactive evoking object or situation at an intensity that does not evoke a response—staying below the threshold of reactivity. The goal of successfully implementing D&CC is to no longer observe a reaction to the trigger. After establishing a threshold of no reaction, decrease the distance or increase the intensity between the dog and the person, other dog, moving object, or situation in tiny steps, as long as your dog continues to remain calm. Over time move as close to the trigger as possible as long as your dog does not react. There is never a need to provoke a response: Indeed, you seek to prevent the opportunity to react with the old behavior. Avoid harsh methods or collars that cause pain as\n\nthey may stop a behavior in the moment, but in truth they increase fear and anxiety, and may be the cause of aggression (Overall et al., 2006).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 314, "chunk_index": 280, "id": "79302e27-fc73-493f-9a50-4a642e2d4a7b", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "Identify Triggers. List your dog’s triggers and reactions below. Examples of triggers are: Other dogs, strangers, children, men, skateboards, motorcycles, or the washer and dryer in your laundry room. Examples of behaviors and vocalizations are: Staring, then barking and lunging with hackles raised.\n\nSuccessful Desensitization Depends Upon Faithful Adherence to Two Principal Rules:\n\nRule 1. Always stay below your dog’s threshold of reaction. This means your dog does not have the emotional, behavioral reactions, or body language expressions listed in the chart below.\n\nRule 2. The intensity of the trigger is increased gradually in very small increments, and only if and when your dog does not have the reactions listed in the chart. Increasing the level of intensity often means decreasing the distance between your dog and the trigger, one small step at a time, while your dog continues remaining under threshold. Progress too quickly and you will see regression with your dog’s reactions becoming worse, progress too slowly and you will see little improvement.\n\nTwo Types of Changes Occur with Desensitization and Counterconditioning\n\nClassical Counterconditioning = Conditioned Emotional Response (CER), that is a new emotional reaction\n\nOperant Counterconditioning = Response Substitution, that is, learning a new behavior\n\nUse this chart to help you identify your dog’s triggers and responses. Your dog’s ability in acclimating gracefully to new or troubling stimuli will be facilitated by the positive, loving relationship you already have with your dog. If your dog cannot trust you, dispelling fears and calming over- reactivity may not be possible.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 316, "chunk_index": 281, "id": "a7ed3eb6-e116-4f05-a7dd-fccd0e1ae039", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "The Engage-Disengage Game, teaches the coping skill of self- interruption. The game reinforces new emotions and desirable behavior by teaching an alternate response. There are two levels: the first level reinforces the dog for engaging with the stimulus while the dog is under threshold, and the second level reinforces the dog for voluntarily turning away from the stimulus (Tong, 2020).\n\nFrustration/hyperactivity reactivity, also known as over-enthusiasm results from allowing your dog to greet and interact with other dogs or people at will while your dog is over threshold. A strong reinforcement history is inadvertently established and continues driving the behavior.\n\nDoes your dog have the symptoms listed below? These are signs of frustration reactivity:\n\nHyperactive behavior. Jumping up, pulling, grabbing leash, pacing on leash, lack of focus Hyperactive body language. Hyper-alert, nervous, fidgety Hyperactive vocalizations. Barking, whining, or excessive panting Refusal to take treats when aroused/excited\n\nIn the hyperactive dog, desensitization and counterconditioning decrease\n\nfrustration and reactivity, and increase calmness and attentiveness.\n\nFrustration reactivity distress occurs when your dog is not allowed to greet each dog or person on your path while moving further away increases rather than decreases your dog’s frustration. With this type of reactivity, your dog wants you to decrease the distance rather than to increase distance from the other dog or person.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 317, "chunk_index": 282, "id": "0d30035a-de32-4f43-b529-f21726e1df28", "word_count": 216, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 280 } }, { "page_content": "Establish the threshold at which your dog does not react by using a rapid rate of reinforcement with high value rewards when triggers appear. Pause —let your dog look at the other dog or person. Your dog will then look to you rather than fixating on the trigger if your distance is correct and your treats are high value to your dog. Next, begin decreasing the distance between your dog and the trigger slowly and incrementally as long as your dog stays under threshold. You may also toss treats in the opposite direction of an on-coming dog or person saying, “Find it.”\n\ntheir dogs. They often and Pet parents enjoy socializing with understandably want everyone to like their dog and they want their dog to like everyone including other dogs and strangers. Pet parents often feel it is a reflection on them personally if their dog is not friendly to other people and dogs. It is not. Stay safe and have fun with your dog!\n\nGenetics, early socialization, or the lack of exposure during the critical sensitive period of social development, traumatic experiences, and health status, shape how your dog responds to people, with other dogs, moving objects such as bicycles, noises and to the environment as a whole. (See Chapter 9, Socialization, to learn how to socialize safely and effectively.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 318, "chunk_index": 283, "id": "8edb27e3-f90a-4237-8eeb-edcc2495d71e", "word_count": 221, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 287 } }, { "page_content": "A realistic goal may be taking your dog for a pleasant walk in the neighborhood to avoid barking and lunging incidents while you work on emotional and behavioral modification. Walks should be pleasant for both of you. If your dog shows signs of anxiety with “stranger dogs,” it is all right to skip group activities and play at home instead. Use a chase lure-toy in the backyard, play up-the-stairs fetch, or place a hula-hoop in a doorway for indoor hurdles. Play nose-games and practice scent-work. Supervised\n\nplaydates with carefully selected well-matched friends may be another alternative.\n\nLove the dog you have. Consider the dog named Ricochet. From the moment she was born the training exercises and goal for Ricochet were to become a service dog. However, Ricochet did not complete the training because of her penchant for chasing birds. Ricochet found a new job— surfing, which made her a beloved surf dog fundraiser with a video gone viral on YouTube. Ricochet walked the red carpet to rave reviews at the American Humane Association Hero Dog Awards where she won the Emerging Hero Dog category in 2011 as a “rising star” (Fuoco, 2011).\n\nHuman directed aggression is one of the most serious behavior problems a dog can develop. Aggression toward humans is a heart breaker for pet parents and often involves dogs that are otherwise perfectly delightful. There are many different types of human aggression that may be directed at people\n\nThe good news is that aggression is typically context specific. This means if you change the situation or your location, the aggression is likely to decrease or disappear. (See Chapter 5, Management and Antecedent Modification.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 318, "chunk_index": 284, "id": "c52da39c-f41f-4ae0-aa82-04a04e25eed1", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "A common myth is that dogs with aggression problems need harsh training methods and collar devices. Nothing could be further from the truth. The\n\nAmerican Veterinary Society on Animal Behavior states in no uncertain terms (2021c), “Animals with challenging behavior disorders such as aggression should be treated with effective, compassionate, and humane methods of training, rather than with “a heavy hand”. There are no exceptions to this standard.” (p. 2.)\n\nDogs trained with the use of dominance methods are at risk for further deterioration. Academically credentialed experts in animal behavior believe dominance training and aversive collar devices are a cause not a cure for aggression. Aggressive dogs have already lost trust in humans if any person has hurt or threatened them. Trust needs to be slowly, carefully, and methodically reestablished. It is not an easy-fix regardless of what some “balance” trainers may tell you. If someone physically hurts or threatens a child, how likely is the child to trust people?\n\nStop doing the things that are making your dog worse Start doing the things that will make your dog better\n\nThere are some very simple but essential things to learn about what may trigger a bite because a dog feels threatened. It’s surprising and disappointing how these interactions are often depicted in the mass media and misunderstood by pet parents, and many trainers. Every person who interacts with your dog should be abiding by the rules below:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 319, "chunk_index": 285, "id": "bf04c9c5-381d-47df-b7d5-b8221270cab8", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "Do not allow anyone to behave threateningly or dominantly with your dog. This will heighten arousal, and is a cause, not a cure, for aggression. Do not hit, yell at, punish, or frighten a dog. Do not pet or touch any dog that you do not know well. Do not approach an aggressive dog. Your over-riding, primary goal should be to stay safe. If a dog is growling, barking, or lunging toward you, the dog is telling you to “Go Away!” Do not run away, yelp, or make sudden body movements. Back away slowly and calmly. The Be a Tree program has special suggestions for children to learn to stay safe (Doggone Safe, 2018).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 320, "chunk_index": 286, "id": "5f204c16-f694-4dac-b63f-40f2fa5f60c6", "word_count": 114, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 148 } }, { "page_content": "Do not stare or make direct eye contact with an aggressive dog. A direct stare is interpreted as a threat and a challenge. Do not pet a dog over the head as is common in our culture. A human body leaning over and above a dog with an arm reaching over the head may easily be perceived as a threat and become a trigger to bite. Your face may be the closest and easiest place to bite. Alternatively, if a dog approaches you, if safe, calmly offer a fist at your side and allow the dog to sniff the fist. Then, if safe, pet the dog under the chin or on the breastplate with gentle strokes. Do not leave infants, toddlers, or young children alone with any dog for any amount of time, regardless of how friendly the dog may be otherwise. Do not hug or kiss a dog that is not your own. Do not attempt to move or stop a dog by pulling on the dog’s collar or neck. Instead, call the dog to you, or toss a piece of food. Do not pet or touch a dog while the dog is eating food, chewing on a bone, or other item of value to the dog. Do not reach to remove food, toys, or other valued objects from your dog. If it is necessary to remove an object, trade up by offering an irresistible piece of food. (See this chapter, Resource Guarding, below.) Do not corner a dog to examine, give medication, clip nails, groom, or pet. Do not disturb a dog that is resting. Instead, call the dog over to you.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 321, "chunk_index": 287, "id": "5f335aeb-766e-4ed6-9669-baf01d8322e8", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Displays of aggression between members of the same species are common in animals. Conflicts over resources such as food, territory, mating privileges, and access to others, are well documented in the animal behavior scholarly literature. Rules of appropriate social behavior in dog society are quite different than in human society. Dog-dog aggression can be a dangerous problem for you, your dog, other dogs, and anyone who tries to break up a dog fight. We expect dogs to play-nice with new dogs in group situations and when out on neighborhood strolls. Reexamine your expectations and goals for your dog. Realistically, if your dog exhibits generalized dog-dog aggression, it is unlikely your dog will turn into a social butterfly, but with consistent training and management, you can make the world less stressful for both of you. The most common mistake pet parents and trainers make is rushing the process, causing setbacks. Your dog needs to learn to trust that you will not be walking into stressful or dangerous situations so there is no need to remain on high alert. Do not give up! Before you head off to the local dog park or dog beach there are two important questions to ask yourself: “Is it safe?” and “Is my dog really having fun?” (See Chapter 9, Dog Park Safety Tips and Chapter 3, Fair Play.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 322, "chunk_index": 288, "id": "fdefbec2-e8c2-4367-96a3-a4066b819fb8", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "Walks should be completely stress free, starting now. Much of the time you will keep moving during a walk, however, at times it is best to let your dog stop, sniff, and just relax on the walk. Remember to breathe deeply and do not let your nervousness “run down the leash” to your dog. Your dog will sense anxiety in a tight leash and in your voice. Talk or sing to your dog in a relaxed and confident manner. You may want to try a waist leash, so you are not tempted to pull or yank on the leash. Bouncing back and forth between happy-walking sniffaris, and barking and lunging is counterproductive.\n\nSpider walks. Let your dog know what to expect on walks in the immediate area surrounding your house first. Do not take long,", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 322, "chunk_index": 289, "id": "e8b72886-25fc-472e-9056-6103ec7e78c9", "word_count": 135, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 175 } }, { "page_content": "meandering walks. Start with walking up to your corner and back home. Later, walk to the other corner and back to your dog’s home anchor. It may take more than three weeks to slowly graduate to walking around the block or down two blocks depending on how well your dog can handle this task and how skilled you become at implementing the techniques. Do not rush it. Increasing the distance. Increase your distance from the other dog. Make a U-turn if necessary, and then walk in the opposite direction from the other dog. Blocking. Keep your dog below threshold and avoid over-stimulation by blocking your dog’s access, view and/or sound of the trigger. Use cars, shrubs, or a neighbor’s driveway, to visually block your dog’s view of the other dog. If safe, use your body as a physical and visual barrier to block your dog’s view of the other dog. Create audio barriers to block sound using your voice or soothing music. Your dog may be aroused by the sound of another dog’s identification tags before your dog sees the other dog. The Open Bar/Closed Bar technique. Click/treat or say “Good” the instant a trigger appears. Make positive associations between your dog and the other dog by hand feeding high value treats when the trigger appears. The goal is to make a very strong impression on your dog that good things happen when another dog appears. Say the word “Good” at the instant the stimulus appears and then follow with the treat. Provide treats every second (a high rate of reinforcement), then begin to extend the duration between treats to every 2–4 seconds when the trigger can be seen by your dog and your dog is not over threshold. Getting attention. Use name response, and “Let’s Go” for U-turns or redirection. (See Chapter 16, Basic Skills). Rewarding automatic eye-contact", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 323, "chunk_index": 290, "id": "5229b71e-5a5c-458c-8701-9aa8fc2ffa54", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "timulus appears and then follow with the treat. Provide treats every second (a high rate of reinforcement), then begin to extend the duration between treats to every 2–4 seconds when the trigger can be seen by your dog and your dog is not over threshold. Getting attention. Use name response, and “Let’s Go” for U-turns or redirection. (See Chapter 16, Basic Skills). Rewarding automatic eye-contact check-ins. Reward with clicks/treats or with treats alone whenever your dog turns to you on a walk so that redirecting attention to you becomes your dog’s new habit. Maintain the bond with your dog while walking. Following walking. Seek out another dog-friendly dog walking in your neighborhood as a training partner. Then, use the other dog as a trigger, but keep your dog’s stress level under the threshold of reactivity. Cross the street if necessary and walk behind a friendly dog", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 323, "chunk_index": 291, "id": "b802288a-1983-4954-b00b-819dfad1bf93", "word_count": 146, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 189 } }, { "page_content": "at a distance. Shorten the distance always staying under your dog’s threshold of reactivity. Provide food rewards. Parallel walking. Now cross the street. Slowly and incrementally draw nearer to the dog across the street until you are walking parallel with the friendly dog. Provide food rewards. Approach/retreat. Use approach/retreat, or a zigzag approach which adds regular periods of relief from stress. Use throw downs of treats. At an under-threshold distance, drop treats onto the pavement, providing your dog a scavenging opportunity, which decreases stress in the presence of another dog. Teach Settle Down. Settle down may be highly effective for desensitization and counterconditioning when teaching a new emotional and behavioral modification skill in the face of triggers such as other dogs or wildlife. Start at a distance below the threshold of reactivity and systematically close the distance to the trigger as long as your dog remains under the threshold of reactivity.\n\nA bite redirect onto a handler is common when people interfere with a dog fight. Avoid taking any action that may cause the dogs to redirect their aggression onto you. Understand the risks and weigh your odds when breaking up a dog fight.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 324, "chunk_index": 292, "id": "3499d50a-40ec-4d1d-9d9f-3d611d990ff2", "word_count": 194, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 252 } }, { "page_content": "Have an exit strategy well before you try to break up a dog fight Teach a lightning recall and proactively intervene with recall before a fight starts Do not grab a dog by the collar Do not put your hands or other body parts near dogs that are fighting Do not use the wheelbarrow technique unless you are an expert bite specialist Pour a soda, preferably one with fizz, over the dogs’ heads Spray water from a spray bottle for breaking up dogfights Douse with water to separate dogs Use a water hose full force to separate dogs Use an air horn for breaking up dog fights only Use an air corrector for breaking up dog fights only\n\nThrow a thick blanket, sweatshirt, coat or towel over the instigating dog When encountering loose strays on walks, use a pop-up umbrella to frighten the dog away, and to create some space for you and your dog to escape Toss a spray of treats just over the stray dog’s head to give you and your dog time to escape If safe, lift small dogs completely off the ground and immediately out of reach such as on top of a vehicle At home, for aggression between dogs, ring the doorbell if this does not typically increase aggression between the dogs Have some pots and pans on hand and loudly clang them together Use a baby gate and press down firmly between the dogs’ muzzles Use an object, such as a broom handle to pry dogs apart, if safe For deaf dogs, stomp on the floor Wear a t-shirt for prevention such as one that says, “Leash your dog, owner bites!”", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 324, "chunk_index": 293, "id": "dfca8655-ee1d-48d7-805b-28591ecfe4e9", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "If your dog has bit another dog or has been in a number of dog fights, find a force-free certified behavior consultant with expertise in aggression for help in changing your dog’s underlying drives, and behaviors. A complete intake evaluation will help in developing a plan of treatment based upon your dog’s history. Dog bites are complex problems, and each case requires an individual approach.\n\nSibling Rivalry—Multi-dogs Household Aggression Treatment\n\nOne of the most difficult situations that trainers and pet parents face is sibling rivalry between your home dogs or between genetically related siblings. First, make certain both dogs’ needs are being met as outlined in the Hierarchy of Dog Needs pyramid. Spend time alone with each dog individually, so bonding occurs early in the relationship, and you are better able to manage them when they are together. Medical, nutritional, security, exercise, and emotional needs must be attended to before rivalry between your dogs is likely to show any significant improvement. For minor incidents with dogs who have otherwise good social skills with each other, let them work out non-violent differences without your intervention. If your dogs scuffle a bit, give them a chance to calm down by securely separating\n\nthem. Then remove the triggers and release them to play together again supervising closely and intervening if necessary.\n\nSerious cases of sibling rivalry can be among the hardest to treat. However, steps can be taken to prevent sibling rivalry from developing from the start. If sibling rivalry is addressed early, these cases may have surprisingly good outcomes.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 326, "chunk_index": 294, "id": "a1ba26eb-227b-4ef1-85bd-58d0f6babc2c", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Prevention and management are gravely underestimated as first-line methods to resolve behavioral problems and/or to prevent problems from arising entirely. Many behavioral problems are highly predictable when dogs are put into situations where reactivity is the only perceived option from the dog’s perspective. Here are some ways you can be proactive about aggression:\n\nEliminate the stressors (Miller, 2010/2020). Rearrange the antecedents. (See Chapter 5, Force-free Training Needs.) Practice desensitization and counterconditioning protocols. Find activities your dogs can safely enjoy together, such as sniff-filled walks or car rides while separated. Proactively protect your smaller, weaker dog, even if your smaller dog is the instigator. Teach both the instigator dog and the other dog a reliable recall so that you can call them to you if you sense trouble brewing. Make certain your dogs have a place of sanctuary in the home where others will not intrude in case of high tension or altercations.\n\nSet Your Dogs up for Success by Avoiding These Tense Conditions\n\nFeed your dogs separately to avoid competition, food swapping, and stress during feeding. Remove all items either one of the dogs guard. Keep dogs separated by creating both physical and visual barriers such as: Baby gates, separate rooms, tethers, or rotating one dog indoors and one dog outdoors. Later, switch their locations.\n\nMake certain the dogs are getting plenty of exercise.\n\nThe first step in diffusing sibling rivalry is identifying each of your dogs’ stressors and eliminating as many as possible. Avoid trigger stacking your dogs’ stressors which can lead to fights over resources. Identify the resource, context, and the trigger for each threat display, such as", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 328, "chunk_index": 295, "id": "005d8921-9860-4541-b9a3-a571a8ad7db1", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Food or treats, including crumbs left on the floor Chew items, including high value, or low-value guarded items Squeaky or other toys Locations, including the bedroom, beds, couches, and narrow hallways Situations, including over-arousal at greetings People\n\nStart by sitting in the middle with each dog sitting on either side of you. Next, move back and forth between your dogs. The dogs will learn you always return to them, but they have to patiently wait their turn. Waiting their turn serves to desensitize and countercondition, that is, to change the emotional reaction to each other. With serious cases of sibling rivalry aggression, you will need three people, or to securely tether each dog where they cannot reach each other or you, and move back and forth between them.\n\n1. Quickly but calmly, turn toward Dog A. Call Dog A’s name, walk to Dog A and treat. Then return to center.\n\n2. Quickly, but calmly, turn toward Dog B. Call Dog B’s name, walk to Dog B and treat. Then return to center.\n\n3. Turn more slowly, extending the duration incrementally between trials.\n\n4. Repeat until both dogs relax, patiently waiting their “turn.” 5. If and when safe, decrease the distance between the dogs one small step at a time until you can safely have them calmly sitting on either side of you.\n\n6. If either dog tries to overstep the boundary, stop instantly, and begin from the start with that trial.\n\n7. Do not rush this process. It may take weeks of practice. 8. If your attention or proximity to you has been a trigger, if and when safe, after polishing the above method, have your dogs lie on either side of you and pet them both.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 329, "chunk_index": 296, "id": "6663a866-45c4-44a5-905a-888bbf6b5930", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "This is a different iteration of open bar/closed bar elucidated in the dog-dog aggression section. However, with sibling rivalry you carefully control the timing and exposure of the dogs to each other. Ideally, you will have two handlers for this exercise. Alternatively, put one dog securely behind a baby-gate and toss food to that dog while you feed the dog you are handling.\n\n1. Establish a threshold distance where the dogs are aware of each other but not aroused or fearful.\n\n2. Keep Dog A and handler A stationary, while Dog B is brought out by Handler B from behind a visual blocker, such as from another room or around a corner.\n\n3. The instant the dogs notice each other, begin a rapid rate of reinforcement, feeding both of them bits of high value food for several seconds until Dog B is removed back behind the visual barrier. Start with short periods of exposure.\n\n4. Continue repeating these steps until each dog looks at the respective handler for food at the appearance of the other dog, signaling a change in Emotion—a Conditioned Emotional Response (CER) (Miller, 2017a).\n\n5. Increase the length of time the dogs are exposed to each other using the same reinforcement protocol.\n\n6. Increase the level of distractions by having Dog B become more animated with friendly arousal, performing Sits, Downs, etc., in front of Dog A (stationary dog), using the same reinforcement protocol.\n\n7. Later, have the dogs switch roles with Dog B and the Handler B stationary, bringing Dog A in with Handler A, using the same reinforcement protocol.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 330, "chunk_index": 297, "id": "19f55919-79e9-4d32-be9f-75e665d07008", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "8. Now, begin to decrease the distance between the two dogs by incremental baby steps as long as they both remain under the threshold of reactivity until they can comfortably remain within 6 feet of each other.\n\nIf there was a serious fight that resulted in physical injury and/or one dog is much larger and/or stronger than the other, permanent separation or rehoming may be your only answer.\n\nWe all guard resources. Resource guarding is in part what motivates people to build and live inside of houses, and why we lock our doors: We do not let others take our belongings. We are all resource guarders evolutionarily by nature. Resource guarding is genetically adaptive to survival but is more pronounced in dogs.\n\nWhen you give your dog a meal or a bone, your dog will not understand that you may need to remove it, perhaps for their own safety. Your dog cannot understand that you purchased and provided the meal and the bone and now you want it back. Your dog simply does not have the cognitive ability for processing complex thoughts on this level. Once you give your dog food or items your dog highly values, your dog considers it to be dog property. Dogs may guard food, bully sticks, bones, toys, balls, people, beds, locations, crates, shoes, toilet paper, and other miscellaneous items they find of value for one reason or another.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 331, "chunk_index": 298, "id": "ef626c1e-3460-41b5-810a-0bcb26d408e2", "word_count": 234, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 304 } }, { "page_content": "For dogs that guard items from humans, a program of carefully planned and executed desensitization and counterconditioning is the gold standard for treatment. The trainer and pet parent must always put safety first! Treatment begins with a neutral object presented at an intensity where your dog does not display any distress or reactive behavior, including body language. Distance is closed, bit-by-bit, incrementally, over the course of treatment, as long as the dog remains under the threshold of reactivity and there are no indications of stress or reactivity. Various objects are used - slowly graduating to the typically guarded item, person, or location. In the classic trade favorite, Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs, author, Jean Donaldson, details step-by-step meticulous hierarchical plans addressing common types of resource guarding, and the variables affecting the intensity of guarding (Donaldson, 2002.) The course of treatment may be many weeks and should be undertaken with the guidance and under the close supervision of a qualified force-free emotional and behavioral consultant who specializes in resource guarding.\n\nResource guarding between dogs is a different type of problem. Dogs are genetically hard-wired to prevent others of their species from stealing their valuable resources. The easiest and best answer is management. Remove\n\nthe guarded object and provide close supervision while practicing a proactive lightning recall. Dogs may need to be separated by barriers (Miller, 2002/2017b). (See this chapter, Sibling Rivalry.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 332, "chunk_index": 299, "id": "9dcf5a1c-b156-4bc1-80dc-d5125cb838c3", "word_count": 234, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 304 } }, { "page_content": "One rarely mentioned but very important conditioning effect of force-free training is the pairing of your hand with receiving high value food. This pairing develops trust that your hand always delivers food, but never takes food away.\n\nMake your approach to the food bowl something your dog finds not only non-threatening, but also very positive. Your approach toward the bowl means more, not less food for your dog, and higher value food.\n\nFor puppies or dogs who do not already guard bowls\n\nSit on the couch with your dog on one side and a bowl full of food on the other side. Hand-feed your puppy or dog, piece by piece, from the bowl.\n\nStart with the empty food bowl in its normal location. Begin the process of desensitization by walking over and dropping one piece of food into the empty bowl as you pass by. This is how your dog learns to trust people when they are coming near the food bowl. Then, put some low value food in the bowl, and as your dog is eating, walk by and drop a higher value bit of food into your dog’s bowl. For example, if your dog is eating kibble, walk by and drop a piece of chicken into the bowl. If safe, slowly, and carefully pair your hand reaching toward the food bowl to deliver food. Never let your dog associate your hand with taking away a valuable item or food bowl.\n\nOne of the standard preventive resource guarding best practices is to trade up with your dog if your dog is already in possession of something you need to retrieve for safety reasons, or an item that does not belong to your dog. Be certain the value of the new food or item for trade is of higher value to your dog than the item your dog is guarding—not just of higher value in your opinion!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 333, "chunk_index": 300, "id": "503abc7b-6263-4575-b0b9-cc6742fd2498", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "For example, trade your dog a piece of hot dog for a tennis ball if your dog loves hot dogs more than tennis balls and decisively wants to trade for it. Alternatively, trade your dog a different tennis ball for the tennis ball you would like your dog to drop. Toss treats away from your dog and away from the item in possession, so your dog is walking in the opposite direction with the rear end (not the head) facing you while you safely remove an item that may be dangerous to your dog, such as a pill bottle.\n\nTeach your dog to drop what is in the mouth by giving the verbal cue “Drop” and then tossing treats away from your dog repeatedly in practice sessions. Very slowly, increase the value of the item you ask your dog to drop for a high value treat.\n\n“Dog Property Laws” (Anonymous) are quite different than human property laws. If you are not aware of these dog laws, take heed. Framed in comedy here, they are funny yet uncannily true.\n\nIf I like it, it’s mine. If you have something and put it down, that makes it mine. If it’s in my mouth, it’s mine—please don’t forget that. If I can take it from you, it’s mine. If it looks remotely like mine, it’s mine. If I saw it first . . . or last, it’s mine. If I had it a while ago, it’s mine. If I chew something up, all the pieces are mine. If I don’t want it, it’s yours—unless, I want it back, then it’s mine!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 334, "chunk_index": 301, "id": "e9286599-99d2-49e2-972c-e718b833df47", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "tried several force-free dog behavior professionals and consistently followed the steps they suggested regarding aggression but are not seeing results, then re-homing your dog may be an option if it can be done safely and responsibly. Please be aware, most shelters and rescues will not take a dog with a bite history. A personal friend or force-free trainer who understands your dog’s history may be a possibility but be aware that finding someone suitable may require a great deal of dedicated effort. Always address a problem with aggression at the first sign of trouble, rather than waiting to treat a dog and a family in crisis where conditions have already escalated and seriously worsened.\n\nn addition to whatever your trusted veterinarian may suggest, taking action with management and behavior will help your dog get through the allergy season with less stress and injury. Confer with your integrative practice veterinarian for the best medical care from both standard allopathic and more wholistic-oriented treatments. An allergy- sensitive dog often develops more than one allergy. Allergic reactions are immune system regulated resulting in itchy skin in some pets and vomiting and diarrhea in others.\n\nBathe your dog weekly with a gentle hypoallergenic dog shampoo, leave-in conditioners, and cool rinses. Brushing your dog’s coat daily distributes natural oils that relieve itching. Avoid air fresheners and diffusers. Keeping your dog busy avoids fixation on scratching the itch! Learn the art of stuffing food enrichment toys. You can find recipes and stuffing instructions online.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 335, "chunk_index": 302, "id": "1c29fd8a-21f9-41c6-9d6a-3411c64e28ed", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "There are three known common causes of allergies—the environment, fleas, and diet. Allergy to fleas and allergens in the environment are much more common in dogs than food allergies, but all have similar symptoms.\n\nThe most common season for allergies is spring, or at the first sign of winter. When exactly do the symptoms begin with your dog? Monitor the episodes. Keep a record for your reference.\n\nIn a fair number of cases there is a hereditary factor, such as a predisposition to atopic disease. Atopic Disease (AD) is analogous to hay fever in humans triggered by pollen, mold spores, dust, and dust mite droppings. Dogs may be exposed through breathing (inhaling) or through the skin. Determine whether other dogs in the litter have atopic disease triggered by environmental factors. Before the age of three, 75% of dogs with atopic disease show symptoms.\n\nThis etiology most often affects the feet, armpits, face, groin, tummy, and ears. Pay special attention to the inside the ears. Rubbing the face against furniture is often misinterpreted as an annoyance behavior rather than an attempt to relieve the discomfort of an allergy-related medical condition.\n\nPut some of these preventive and protective techniques to work during your dog’s allergy season. Whether you can specifically identify the allergen or not, limit possible exposure as much as possible. Here are some things you can do to help your dog avoid and heal from itching:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 338, "chunk_index": 303, "id": "1fde2553-79a3-48de-bb4b-9c039c6f6e7a", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Create a new space for your dog. Use an alternate elimination area, such as the front patio: Create a Doggy Enrichment Land dog zone that your dog prefers, getting some distance from the inhaled pollen and the pollen on the ground that is picked up on your dog’s paws and coat. Install a grassy area to pee and poop or train your dog to eliminate on synthetic grass that you can spray with a hose to clean. Avoid going outdoors with your dog during times of high pollen, such as at dawn and dusk.\n\nLimit outdoor time during peak allergy seasons. Check the pollen forecast online. Keep your dog indoors on high pollen days. Your dog’s head should not be out the window when riding in the car. Use dehumidifiers to help control mold and mites. Rinse paws with water or clean the paws with baby wipes each time after your dog comes indoors so your dog does not lick the paws and inhale allergens or track allergens throughout the home. Keep your floors as clean as possible. Use organic/hypo-allergenic cleaning products only. Have your dog wear socks or boots when outdoors. Remove them at the door before coming inside. Wipe your dog’s coat with a damp cloth to remove the airborne allergens after going outdoors. Install air-conditioning and/or air filtration systems, to avoid reintroducing allergens back into your environment. Use a high efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter.\n\nDogs with flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) are hypersensitive to flea saliva. However, a dog need not be invested with fleas to cause an allergic reaction. A single fleabite can cause itching for days. Here’s how you can help protect your dog:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 338, "chunk_index": 304, "id": "283380ba-58ff-4885-917d-c71e2b732f2c", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Wash all dog beds, dog bed covers, and blankets including the couch blanket with a hypoallergenic detergent weekly. The heat of the clothes dryer will kill fleas at all life stages. Dust and vacuum often but not with your dog in the room. According to Dr. Patrick Mahaney in PetMD (2012, July 3), keep your home as flea-free as possible by vacuuming rugs, upholstery, and car interiors every seven days. Throw out the vacuum bag right away, disposing of it outside of the home in a sealed bag or container. Reduce the ability for outdoor creatures such as stray cats, rats, and raccoons to enter your yard. Keep windows and doors closed and prevent your dog from going to outdoor areas that may possibly be flea infested.\n\nProtect your dog against contact with dogs who may be flea carriers.\n\nBe certain your dog is on a nutritionally balanced, biologically appropriate, premium diet to keep the immune system strong. Poor quality or biologically inappropriate food to which your dog has become sensitized is also a possible cause of allergic reactions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 339, "chunk_index": 305, "id": "688f6afe-4c08-499d-87d9-4e8914575c65", "word_count": 179, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 232 } }, { "page_content": "Avoid additives, coloring, and preservatives. Try a dietary elimination trial with one source of novel protein and one complex carbohydrate vegetable such as potato, plus the necessary fats, vitamins, and minerals. Choose a specifically named meat such as duck or venison, that your dog has not eaten previously or proteins that are hydrolyzed. Try duck and sweet potato, for example for at least a month. Whatever you feed, be certain that it is part of a nutritionally balanced diet. Most dogs are allergic to an animal protein, whereas grains are an uncommon cause of food allergies, contrary to some pet food industry promotions (Cummings Veterinary Medical Center Tufts, Clinical Nutrition Service, 2017). Try Balance IT® from Davis Veterinary Consulting, the guide for nutritionally balanced recipes for home cooked meals developed by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist (2004–2020). Include farm raised salmon or an Omega 3 supplement. Include probiotics. Check out The Holistic Health Guide by Dr. Doug Knueven, DVM, and sought-after speaker at veterinary conferences (2008). This book is one of the best resources on holistic health in the field. See Chapter 1, Proper Nutrition, for more information.\n\nIf the skin has been rubbed raw with sores, help prevent bacteria from causing infection by:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 340, "chunk_index": 306, "id": "7b0e2859-563d-4aa5-893a-2f2db2ea9b25", "word_count": 203, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 263 } }, { "page_content": "Cleansing wounds with a hypoallergenic soap, made for dogs, and warm water. Applying an anti-bacterial ointment. Limiting activity if sores are on the pads of the paws. Having the nails clipped short and smooth so your dog causes minimal damage if scratching. Consider using nail protectors if your dog can be conditioned to tolerate them. Applying a bitter apple spray or gel that does not burn to prevent licking of the wounds. Test first on your own wound. If necessary, duct tape socks or booties so they fit snugly, but not to your dog’s fur or skin. Make sure all wounds can breathe. Use mesh-type protective wear.\n\noes your dog bark while running in circles, bay at the moon, bark at bugs, or scare your visitors out of their boots? Dogs do not know the difference between welcomed guests and unwelcomed intruders for the most part. Dogs are genetically hard-wired for guarding your home. Barking is as natural a vocalization for dogs as speaking is for people. From your dog’s point of view, barking is happening for a reason, a very good reason. Look at the context to understand why your dog is barking. Basic barking is normal, but incessant barking indicates an unhappy dog. Get a veterinary wellness check and rule out a possible medical cause for your dog’s barking.\n\nCalming your emotionally aroused dog with food does not “reward” barking. It is not the same as operantly teaching “Speak!” Rather, you are calming the underlying emotional state that is causing your dog to bark.\n\nBarking is one of your dog’s only means of communicating with you and the world, so please pay attention. There are many different motivations that may be driving or triggering the barking. Your dog has different types of barks:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 341, "chunk_index": 307, "id": "678be7a7-96a0-4d5b-bf19-4d2dd8b4ba81", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Alarm barks repel real or perceived intruders, that is, territorial protective barking Request/Attention barks ask something of you, i.e., a request to get needs met, such as hunger, thirst, exercise, comfort, or security Boredom barks occur when your dog needs something to do. If you do not provide something engaging for a dog to do, barking draws attention to the lack of stimulation and frustration Cognitive deficit barks are the result of cognitive slippage or dementia often seen in senior dogs Medical illness barks are the result of pain, organic disease, parasites, allergies, or arthritis Loneliness, isolation barks indicate the natural and pleading need for interaction on a regular and frequent basis Separation anxiety barks occur when your dog experiences separation or abandonment distress. (See Chapter 22, Separation Anxiety.) Aggressive barks arise from a perceived threat, fear, or frustration. Do not ignore this. (See Chapter 17, Aggression.) Play barks express joy. Not a problem!\n\nTo decrease barking, first identify why your dog is barking. Then, address each trigger separately. If you have a multiple-dog household there is generally a ringleader instigator while the other dogs will often chime in. Starting with the instigator, train each dog separately. Bring peace and quiet to your home and follow these non-aversive training tips:\n\nRemove the trigger through environmental management. Decrease the intensity of the trigger. (See Chapter 5, Antecedent Modification.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 344, "chunk_index": 308, "id": "0ffdaad4-982f-4078-bb73-939faf63e163", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "Teach your dog to do something other than bark when triggered. (See Chapter 5, Differential Reinforcement.) Decrease your dog’s sensitivity to the trigger to decrease the frequency and intensity of barking. (See Chapters 5 and 17, Classical and Counterconditioning and Desensitization.) Provide enrichment such as food delivery toys, snuffle mats, and alternate activities such as a sensory garden, scent games, and varied exercise. Include your dog when running errands. (See Chapter 10, Enrichment and Grazing Games.) Hire a force-free dog walker to break up your dog’s day with natural activities your dog enjoys for stress relief.\n\nA dog who is perpetually “on patrol” experiences continual chronic stress and anxiety. Dogs should be able to fully relax in their own home and yard.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 345, "chunk_index": 309, "id": "3134b046-75c2-4717-8c44-09ba8d5dbc4a", "word_count": 122, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 158 } }, { "page_content": "Have visitors carry treats and/or mount a treat bag on your outside doorknob that reads, “Please feed the animals.” Throw treats out into the backyard when the doorbell rings or someone knocks on the door, so your dog focuses on scavenging food rather than on barking. Alternatively, put your dog in a quiet location with a chew item until your dog calms down. Acknowledge the communication. For example, say, “Thank you. All is well.” If you are home, redirect your dog to another location. For example, call your dog to you and reward. Give your dog plenty of exercise to relieve pent-up energy and stress. Desensitize your dog so the doorbell no longer means “Scary stranger is here,” but proclaims, “Treat-friend is here!” You may record the sound of the doorbell, starting the process at a very low volume with high value treats. Pair the trigger with treats in quick succession: Bell/treat, bell/treat, bell/treat, bell/treat. Give treats for a “Down/Wait” in your dog’s bed. If your dog stalks, sits, or lies in wait for dogs or people passing by your home, or spies on squirrels out in the yard, rearrange and\n\nmanage your dog’s location using a visual blocker removing the guarding opportunities. Provide your dog with novel stimuli, such as a food toy, to replace guarding activities. For recurring outdoor noises near your home, try an audio blocker such as background television. Select a happy channel, such as the cooking or shopping channel where nothing stress-inducing is aired. Alternatively, turn on the stereo or download the sound of the ocean or a fan. Recent research indicates dogs prefer reggae and soft rock music.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 345, "chunk_index": 310, "id": "e923142d-4139-4099-8c73-538ef2641ba9", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "It is highly distressing to your dog if you do not respond in a timely manner to meet your dog’s real needs. How would you feel if you could not get your basic needs met on your own? First, ask yourself, “What is it that my dog wants?” Is your dog barking to alert you to a need or a reasonable request that requires your attention?\n\nFigure out the underlying cause of the barking and how to make both of you happy. Provide alternative activities, if appropriate, redirecting and rewarding desirable behavior. Reward your dog for calm and well-mannered behavior. If your dog’s request is unreasonable or evolves into annoyance-type barking, redirect the behavior, or as a last resort, turn and walk away. One of the easiest things you can do to decrease barking frustration caused by hunger is to feed your dog before you eat—regardless of what you may have otherwise been told.\n\nCitronella bark collars, electric bark collars, debarking surgery, spray bottles, shaking cans of marbles near delicate ear structures, or shouting, have undesirable and often serious medical and emotional effects. The use of these items is punitive. Never punish your dog for growling or barking\n\nbecause the next time your dog may forego the bark and just bite. You want your dog to calm down, not shut down, or teeter on the brink of aggression.\n\nPunishment may backfire and have these unwanted effects\n\nAggression Fearfulness Damage to the relationship between you and your dog A strengthened negative association/relationship with whatever or whoever your dog is barking about Loss of hearing", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 346, "chunk_index": 311, "id": "4d7950da-6ef7-480e-b78a-a310c00f0fd0", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "re you planning to bring a puppy or new dog into a family with an infant or toddler? Are you concerned about protecting your newborn but still want one big, happy family? Many dogs accept a new baby into the home without any problems; however, some do not, and some need a lot of help. This chapter is designed to help you prevent common problems and encourage you to be well-prepared to care for both dog and baby.\n\nAs responsible baby and pet parents, it is your job to protect your baby from your dog, and to protect your dog from your baby. Safety first is the cardinal rule. Many online posts show appallingly unsafe interactions between babies, young children, and the family dog. Children are the group most frequently bitten by dogs, and most often those bites are from the family dog or a well-known dog. Take the relationship between your child and your dog very seriously. Ultra-close supervision is the responsibility of the parents, not the responsibility of the dog or the toddler. Keep your child and your dog safe and prevent harassment or teasing of your dog by your\n\nnaturally curious child. It is up to you, your child’s parent, and your dog’s pet parent, to draw clear physical boundaries and make the rules.\n\nThe relationship between your baby and your dog will change while each of them grow through their respective developmental stages. Dogs react differently to children at each stage of the dog’s development, and at each stage of the child’s development, and vice versa. Most parents see a change in the dog’s behavior when the child begins to crawl, toddle, walk, and then run.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 349, "chunk_index": 312, "id": "bfbb3e96-7076-47fa-9801-6d6fbacab85d", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "Get a veterinary wellness exam and rule out a possible medical condition, disease, or pain that may be an underlying cause of unwanted behavior. Be sure to update titer testing or vaccinations for your dog.\n\nConsider the age of your child before adopting or bringing a dog into your home. The pioneering psychologist, Jean Piaget, in his Construction of Reality of the Child (Piaget, 1954) described the stages of cognitive development in children exploring the process of thinking and intellectual development at each stage. Research on a child’s normal brain development indicates that it is not until approximately the age of five that a child can process the information that the dog can hurt them, and that they can hurt the dog. Ideally, parents ought to add a dog to the family after children have reached the age of five years old. This may not fit your plan or situation, but keep these ideas in mind:\n\n1. Younger children simply do not have the cognitive ability to understand that a dog can bite. Toddlers cannot understand how a bite would hurt and affect their own lives, how it would affect other family members, and certainly not what it could mean for the dog’s life.\n\n2. Toddlers cannot understand that they can hurt and/or frighten a dog. A child does not have the ability to understand the difference between a dog and a moving plush toy, that is, your child does not know your dog experiences fear, feels pain, and can be hurt.\n\nAchieve safety and harmony for both your child and your dog through proper preparation and careful management until your child is old enough", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 350, "chunk_index": 313, "id": "62c285d1-6400-48f4-aee5-97f7ce6051d2", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "for a positive and safe relationship with your dog. By the time you bring your baby home, you want your dog to be\n\nBecome a dog body language reading expert. You will know right away if your dog is experiencing stress around the baby. Learn the difference between how your dog looks when happy versus how your dog looks when stressed. Also, be on watch for either avoidance of, or fixation on, the baby. Listen for vocalizations of distress or warning signals, such as a growl or whining. These are your dog’s only way of “speaking” to you. (See Chapter 11, Dog Body Language.)\n\nMake certain the dog NEVER has access to the baby without an adult present. No dog should be trusted with a small child . . . and no small child should be trusted with a dog! Any dog will bite if sufficiently provoked and any child can put herself or himself in danger by intentionally—or unintentionally—grabbing, falling, poking, hugging, or being otherwise overly enthusiastic. Your dog may not recognize your newborn as a member of the family. Keep your baby’s sleeping quarters safe by making the inside of the nursery off-limits to your dog. Secure it.\n\nPrepare your dog months in advance for the arrival of a baby into the home. Providing plenty of attention through reward-based training prevents additional stress and helps your dog be a “good dog” around the baby. Dogs\n\nlove routines and your dog will thank you for providing some new routines to follow. Here are some guidelines to help you prevent predictable problems:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 351, "chunk_index": 314, "id": "77d55c5d-8a0a-4dd3-845f-9a614f3cf73c", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "Transitioning. Foster independence in your dog by slowly transitioning the primary dog care-taking duties to another family member long before you bring the baby home. Start practicing new routines for your dog. Make the arrival of the baby as seamless as possible from your dog’s point of view. Alter routines before the baby comes home and give your dog time to learn and accept the new lifestyle. Personality and temperament profile assessment. What is your dog’s temperament and history? Assess your dog’s behavior toward infants, toddlers, strangers, and reactions to novel items, smells, and situations. Does your dog have small-animal predatory tendencies, resource-guarding behaviors, startle phobia, or fear responses? If so, call a professional for an assessment and treatment. Do not play aggressive games with your dog. Management. Create a safe sanctuary that is, a Doggy Enrichment Land dog zone for your dog. Separately, create a safe sanctuary baby zone and enriched environment for your child. For older children, put painter’s tape around the dog’s bed or crate to draw the boundary line. Ask the children not to cross that line. It is amazing how kids follow rules, and how they often they are willing to “correct” their siblings and their parents if a parent break the rules!\n\nEnclosed gated areas keep the dog and your defenseless baby separated and safe, so both you and your dog can relax. Your dog needs a safe place to relax away from your child as well. Always keep your dog either with you or in a secured dog zone. Use a playpen to contain toddlers and allow your dog to roam free, if safe.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 352, "chunk_index": 315, "id": "be000b85-c3e3-4296-9871-f728866fee75", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Here are some essential elements to start practicing in your dog and\n\nHabituate and desensitize your dog to new baby stimuli before you bring your baby home. Acclimate your dog to the incoming new baby sounds, gadgets, smells, and various baby routines by role- playing activities such as diaper changing, and stroller walks with a doll before you bring your baby home. Everything associated with the baby should become the new normal routines, as opposed to sudden or anxiety-provoking novel experiences. Check out “Baby Sounds for Pets, Dogs, Cats and Other Animals”, a recording of crying, grunting, bathing, happy squealing, snoring, and giggling baby sounds from Dr. Lewis Kirkham (2014). Socialization. After taking the desensitization steps above, and under close and careful supervision invite close friends with infants to visit. This will slowly and safely acclimate your dog to the presence of babies in the home. Take your people-friendly dog to observe children at play from a distance. Reward your dog with treats and soft praise for remaining calm while in the presence of small children. Your dog will develop positive associations with babies. Training basic manners and skills. Address training and behavior issues before the baby arrives. Practice using voice instructions with your dog to keep your hands free to care for your baby. Train-out the\n\nbehaviors you do not want. You do not need to teach your dog a great many behaviors. Numerous instructions may be confusing to your dog. Focus on training both basic manners and impulse management in a distraction-free environment for optimal results. Your dog should know the following behaviors reliably well A. Name Response B. Sit C. Down D. Wait/Stay E. Come F. Calm Leash-walking", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 353, "chunk_index": 316, "id": "dab21bc2-ba9e-4d5f-a44a-fe0f18cd1240", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Evaluate the nutritional needs of your dog. Diet affects behavior. Feed your dog a truly healthful, biologically appropriate nutritionally balanced diet. (See Chapter 1, Proper Nutrition.)\n\nProvide your dog with sufficient aerobic, non-aerobic and mental exercise. Try to provide running, swimming, or doggy playdates at least twice a week for active dogs. Hire a force-free dog walker if your dog needs more exercise, fun, or socializing more than you can now comfortably provide.\n\nIntroduce Your Dog to Your Baby Slowly and Gradually\n\nHelp your dog experience the arrival of the baby as a good thing. Share your attention with the dog when the baby is present. This will endear your baby to your dog and prevent “sibling” rivalry. Make the arrival of the baby to your home a neutral event. When coming home from the hospital, have a parent come into the house alone and calmly greet the dog first. Then put your dog on leash and ask for a “Sit” or a “Down.” Have a parent come into the home with the baby and either retreat to another room and save introductions for later, or if your dog looks relaxed, walk your dog calmly and slowly toward the baby and let your dog sniff your baby’s toes—not your baby’s face. Ideally, your dog will not be overly interested in the baby\n\nin the future, and will treat your baby with relative indifference, which is best at this stage. You don’t want your baby to be intently or primarily interested in the dog either. Do not encourage your baby’s fixation on the dog but redirect attention away from the dog for the most part.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 354, "chunk_index": 317, "id": "f780a301-c23a-48af-9eb6-5adc5b5045dc", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Generally, dogs that display aggressive behaviors are not appropriate for families with small children. These problems need IMMEDIATE intervention. Seek professional help anytime you have concerns about\n\nInteractions between your dog and your child Interactions between your dog and other family members Growling or other displays of aggression Guarding behaviors of items or people Sudden changes in your dog’s behavior Conflict between dogs in the home\n\nAttend a Dogs and Babies seminar or arrange for a private consultation in your home with a local force-free behavior consultant who specializes in dogs and babies. Renowned baby and dog specialist, Colleen Pelar’s, Living with Kids and Dogs (2012) may be found online. Her website is filled with helpful articles, an advice column and more. Dr. Sophia Yin published a wonderful children’s picture-book booklet called, How to Greet a Dog, (Yin, 2011). Another wonderful resource is Family Paws Parent Education with founder Jennifer Shryock (2018). The American Veterinary Medical Association has a must-read online brochure, “Dog Bite Prevention” (n.d.).\n\nf you are wondering why your dog is not more playful with you, with other people, or with other dogs, do not be dismayed. Most dogs can learn to be less fearful and become playful and affectionate with desensitization and counterconditioning training, the gold standard of treatment for fearful dogs. Sometimes we need to train a water-shy Labrador to swim. Be realistic about your expectations for your dog and seek to meet your dog’s needs as the priority, not only your own, and remember in real life, classic celebrity-dog Lassie was a group of actor- dogs, each with specific, limited skills, raised by an animal trainer. Chances are, you have a real dog—who may well be suffering.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 355, "chunk_index": 318, "id": "f052a5cf-114f-4595-a932-7d21971a63c0", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "Misused equipment, intimidation or restraint may cause a condition called tonic immobility, wherein fear is mistaken and mislabeled as “good behavior.” Tonic immobility is a condition of unresponsiveness occurring during significant stress. Tonic immobility may also occur at a training facility, lesson, or class, at home, or in any situation where a pet is frightened. Charging ahead to get a frightening task “over with” such as grooming or a veterinary visit can easily backfire, resulting in fear,\n\naggression, anxiety, escape/avoidance behavior, or tonic immobility. (See Chapter 11, Flooding and Tonic Immobility.)\n\nUse desensitization and counterconditioning techniques. Desensitization is an effective behavioral treatment that decreases your dog’s fearful reaction to things your dog currently finds disturbing. The goal of desensitization is for your dog to maintain a level of calm acceptance in the face of people, other dogs, moving objects, or situations that previously or currently upset your dog.\n\nThese are indications of fear. Does your dog exhibit any of the following?\n\nFearful behavior includes attempts to run away or hide, displays of appeasement behaviors such as excessive licking, crouching, crawling, or rolling over to expose the tummy area when experiencing stress. Fearful body language includes ears down, tail between the legs, crouching, body stiffness, rear of body pulled back from stimuli, and whale-eye—when you see the whites of your dog’s eyes. Fearful vocalizations include crying, howling, barking, or panting more than usual, although not thirsty. Refusal to take treats is a classic symptom of a fearful dog. If your dog typically enjoys treats, refusal to eat indicates your dog is experiencing stress in the environment or the interaction.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 357, "chunk_index": 319, "id": "02ecb25a-6df3-40a5-9835-02a3b0b0f1ea", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "Symptoms of noise phobia are similar to those of otherwise fearful dogs, above, with the additional hypersensitivity to sound. In the noise-sensitive dog, desensitization and counterconditioning increases tolerance to noise and decreases reactivity to sounds that may otherwise result in chronic stress or acute stress.\n\nFear is adaptive to survival and thus easily acquired and difficult to treat, because it is deep-seated in the brain. Most frightened dogs will run away\n\nor hide if possible. Some have an active defense reflex and attempt to attack what frightens them. Genetics, i.e., nature, may be more important than learning, however conversely, learning, i.e., nurture, may be more important than genetics in some individuals and in differing situational contexts. Personality is a combination of genetics and behavior learned through early interactive environmental experiences. A traumatic experience may also shape future behavior.\n\nGenetics Early developmental experience Traumatic triggering events\n\nChoosing your dog or puppy carefully will help cut down on the surprises that come with haphazard breeding. Your dog’s temperament is, in part, an inherited collection of traits. Temperament is the first expression of personality. There are four dimensions of temperament: Novelty seeking, harm avoidance, reward dependence, and persistence (Service, 2012). Traits such as aggression and trainability were found to be shared by genetically similar dogs in a recent landmark study using data from more than 14,000 dogs described in the C-BARQ, a pet parent self-report data base (Serpell, 2020). Fearfulness showed a smaller genetic contribution in genetically similar dogs (MacLean et al., 2019).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 358, "chunk_index": 320, "id": "548864e9-db74-4ebc-8f7a-aea1180a33a9", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "A dog’s fear of strangers or other dogs may be inherited, however, some studies show that experiences in early development and socialization may override the effect of genes. Keep in mind neglectful or aggressive mothering and relationships between siblings are also part of the socialization process that may negatively affect your dog’s psychological development. The Big Five dimensions of personality are: Openness to experience, conscientiousness, extraversion, agreeableness, and neuroticism that includes impulse control, anxiety, and emotional stability (Service, 2012).\n\nThe critical, aka as the sensitive period of socialization occurs within a window of socialization between the 3rd and 12th week of life. The ideal period to transition a puppy into a forever home is between the 8th and 10th\n\nweek of life, generally speaking. Breeders have a great deal of influence not only concerning your dog’s genetics but also in the critical early stages of social development of your dog. Keep in mind that puppies often behave one way with the breeder family and household pets but behave differently with strangers once your puppy comes home. We encourage careful and proper socialization outside of the breeder’s inner circle, habituation to common noises and surfaces, early chew toy training, housetraining, and proper restful sleeping conditions.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 359, "chunk_index": 321, "id": "d615166c-88c5-4219-b2e0-57e9ea8e0d24", "word_count": 204, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 265 } }, { "page_content": "What happens or does not happen during the critical sensitive period of socialization will dramatically affect your adolescent and adult dog. Make certain your dog’s socialization is a series of controlled positive experiences. Positively expose your puppy or rescue dog to 100 new things in the first 100 days, enriching the environment with gradual, gentle, controlled exposure to new people, places, things, other friendly dogs, situations, and moving objects. Take your puppy with you frequently when going out and conversely practice frequent separations. Do not overwhelm your puppy but allow plenty of downtime for sleep, decompression, and bonding setting your dog and your family up for success.\n\nNegative associations from the past or unfamiliar stimuli, known as neophobia, often generalize from one specific trigger to wider and wider categories of other dogs, people, or events. Some fears produce a state of hyper-arousal and chronic stress in your dog.\n\nProtect the physical safety and psychological security of all dogs and people. Remember, every good treatment plan begins with management. Whatever the source of your dog’s fears, the gold standard of treatment is counterconditioning. Pair positive the associations with slow, managed, incremental exposure of the trigger stimulus. Over-exposure to a feared stimulus, also known as flooding, typically further traumatizes dogs and is not something you can “undo.” Avoid exposures where your dog is over the threshold of fear reactivity as communicated through behavior, vocalizations, and body language. Food", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 360, "chunk_index": 322, "id": "84c0caf0-9846-4903-aee1-bde174db78a2", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "may be the initial bridge to change your dog’s response from one of fear to one of a positive experience. Follow these guidelines:\n\nAvoid getting the old response where your dog repeats and practices an undesirable behavior. Create new positive associations by linking a very mild version of the fear with something your dog adores. Work to get the right balance between the supported exposure and the trigger to foster an increased sense of security and safety. Your best guide is your dog’s body behavior, vocalization, and body language. Learn to read your dog’s body language, so you can recognize fear: Mouth clamped shut, ears pinned back, tail between the legs, attempting to hide, running away, growling if trapped, or air snaps.\n\neparation Anxiety (SA) Disorder is both a devastating condition for dogs and a heart-wrenching experience for pet parents. SA is a stress-related disorder, more specifically, a fear reaction to being left alone. It is defined by emotional and physical distress brought on by the absence of an attachment figure. When left alone, dogs suffering with SA disorder experience what is akin to a panic attack in humans.\n\nResearch in the field of developmental psychology has shown that SA in dogs may be similar to an attachment disorder in humans. Separation anxiety indicates there is an insecure anxiety-driven attachment most often to a pet parent, or possibly to a canine housemate (Ainsworth & Bell, 1970). Some dogs are comforted with another person as a substitute for the primary relationship, but many are not. Generally, if a dog appears overly attached to a pet parent, getting another dog is unlikely to solve the problem.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 361, "chunk_index": 323, "id": "ec6f5d8d-f5dc-4c2d-9b7d-2944c24bc6a0", "word_count": 274, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 356 } }, { "page_content": "Lamentably, “Most separation anxiety in dogs appears to be ‘idiopathic’ meaning we do not understand what is causing it,” (Overall, 2013, p. 681).\n\nIt is not well-understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and others do not. Puppies from the same litter with similar puppyhood experiences have developed SA, while the other puppies from the litter have developed normally.\n\nOne or all three of the following factors may play a part in any single\n\nIt may reflect a dog’s relationship with a pet parent It may result from a single traumatic event in a dog’s life There may be a genetic predisposition to SA\n\nFactors associated with SA include being left alone for long periods of time or, conversely, not spending enough time alone. Preventive strategies are recommended in order to avoid heartache for pet parents as well as their dogs early in the dog’s life or early in the relationship (Sargisson, 2014a).\n\nThe peak intensity of problems related to separation is typically seen shortly after the pet parent’s departure. In an extensive review of the literature, Sargisson (2014b) found that, on average, dogs with SA begin vocalizing 3.25 minutes after departure, and destructive behavior begins 7.13 minutes after departure. Keep in mind your dog could be suffering from a condition that is often mistaken for separation anxiety—boredom!", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 363, "chunk_index": 324, "id": "8ee3c32d-ebda-4d30-9676-cd7b14577e84", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "The good news is that SA is treatable. The solution is training dogs to enjoy time alone or at least be accepting of reasonable periods of time spent alone. Make the time your dog spends alone as pleasant as possible, baby stepping your way toward recovery. Just as you would not expect a person experiencing a severe panic attack to “Just get over it,” neither can you expect a dog with SA to have symptoms resolve quickly. It may take months rather than weeks of dedicated treatment. Do not listen to misbegotten advice to let your dog “cry it out”. Recovery is a process. (See Chapter 2, Attachment and Abandonment.)\n\nEncourage your dog to become more independent by becoming a proactive pet parent and trainer helping your dog to feel more emotionally secure. Practice separation anxiety prevention by using the treatment techniques in this chapter early in your dog’s development, or when adding a rescued dog to your family, and regularly thereafter. Teach your dog to enjoy being a dog and a “happy camper” even when you are not home.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 364, "chunk_index": 325, "id": "07447882-7881-4bf1-80e2-baebfad8ba30", "word_count": 180, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 234 } }, { "page_content": "Dogs are social creatures and need social contact much like we do. However, your dog does not have the choices afforded by social or other media, to go out on the town, or to entertain guests when desired, but depends entirely upon you to provide adequate opportunities for social interaction. Leaving your dog, a member of a social species, alone all day is without question contraindicated. Dogs should not be left alone, on average, for more than five hours at a stretch if they do not have social contact and elimination opportunities. If your dog withholds urination, longer periods may create medical problems, such as a build-up of toxins in the bloodstream resulting in kidney conditions and urinary tract infections as well as psychological distress. If your job keeps you away from home for long stretches of time, engage outside help to find a dog-friendly alternative to leaving your dog home alone all day. Here are some ideas you may want to consider:\n\nA force-free pet sitter with whom your dog has already closely bonded can provide daily visits, play, and walks. Arrange to receive a per visit photo or video and/or a text message to help you adjust to the separation and help relieve guilt feelings in you that may crop up. A well-researched doggy day care facility may be an option if your dog is suitable for such a high intensity environment with other dogs, and if safe. Take your dog to work with you when possible.\n\nIn 2014, Sargisson (2014c) undertook an enlightening review of the scientific literature on strategies for the management and treatment of SA in dogs. She found that preventive measures include the following:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 365, "chunk_index": 326, "id": "8fe91352-0ee9-4ebc-9579-99ffa8a410af", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "Providing a wide range of experiences outside the home and with other people Having stable routines Making regular absences from the dog–not too long but not too short in duration part of your dog’s routine Avoiding punishment\n\nTypically, having a dog sleep in bed is not a problem unless the dog already has SA. If a dog does have SA, pet parents may want to reconsider their sleeping arrangements in a kind and step-wise manner. There is evidence that allowing dogs to sleep in bed contributes to SA or other behavior problems. According to attachment theory, co-sleeping practices may exacerbate SA when the attachment figure is away from the home (Thompson & Smith, 2014). Jagoe and Serpell (1996) found that dogs who sleep in bed with pet parents may respond adversely to separation and display the separation-related problems of urination and defecation, having developed an “unbalanced” attachment to that person. They may also engage in competitive resource guarding.\n\nThis research should not be used to assign blame to pet parents for letting dogs sleep in bed. Instead, it allows us to look carefully at how pet parents can change their home environment in a way that helps their dogs overcome SA.\n\nThere are risks factors associated with SA. In many cases, a dog habituated to continual contact with the pet parent never developed the sufficient confidence needed to be left alone. Dogs at risk of becoming insecurely attached to pet parents and who may be particularly susceptible to developing separation related issues are:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 366, "chunk_index": 327, "id": "fda1131a-4e0a-4efa-b92b-70a16c0e81c4", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Puppies. Puppies who never learned to be without the pet parent or to socialize with others are at risk. Dogs living with a single adult. Dogs living with a single adult are 2.5 times more likely to suffer with SA than those living with two or\n\nmore people (McGreevy, 2010). Dogs living with pet parents who work from home. Dogs living with pet parents who are retired. Rescued dogs. Rescued dogs often suffer from SA as a result of being abandoned and the commonly frightening and lonely experience at a shelter: although rescue staff and volunteers do a wonderful job of rehoming dogs, avoiding SA can be an especially difficult challenge for a rescued dog. Check to be certain your rescue facility uses only force-free behavior modification methods to help avoid additional problems and suffering. Boarded dogs. Dogs may develop separation anxiety for the first time in a kennel or board and train facility when pet parents go away on vacation or business. Apartment living. Dogs who live in apartments may be more at risk than those who live in homes with yards. Children. Some research indicates that dogs who live in homes without children may be at higher risk. Breed predisposition. There may be a factor of genetically driven, breed-related predisposition to separation anxiety. Some of the breeds mentioned in research include the Australian Shepherd, Bichon Frise, Border Collie, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chihuahua, German Shepherd Dog, Jack Russell Terrier, Labrador Retriever, and Vizsla.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 366, "chunk_index": 328, "id": "8616459e-8f9f-499b-832a-b5b3660663c2", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "Answers to the below questions help a behavioral consultant determine the severity of the SA related issue or disorder for the purpose of creating a customized treatment plan for a client.\n\nHow many hours per day on average do you spend with your dog? How many hours per day on average is your dog left alone? How old was your dog when you first noticed symptoms? How old is your dog now? Was there an event, such as a vacation spent together, or being home with you for a long period of time, that preceded your dog developing symptoms? Was there a change in family routines, family structure, or family location?\n\nWas there an event that your dog may have perceived as traumatic separation, such as boarding or kenneling, that preceded the onset of symptoms? Does your dog dislike spending even a short amount of time alone in your yard?\n\nUnderstanding the signs of stress your dog displays anticipating your departure and identifying the chain of emotional events that occur before you leave the home provide clues for treatment. Here are some signs of anxiety your dog may experience indicating that a panic attack is likely.\n\nFollowing closely on your heels from room to room throughout the day. Not all dogs who follow closely suffer separation anxiety. Sadness/worried look. Dog body language and facial expressions are reflections of how your dog is feeling and your dog’s state of mind. Panting, from stress—not from overheating or exercise. Pacing. Crying/whining. Crying is a sure sign your dog is in distress and has unmet needs. Other.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 367, "chunk_index": 329, "id": "522f248d-8919-4ec2-be12-b16820f85017", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "If you do not know what your dog does after you leave the house, find out. A remote or stationary video camera is an important tool for gathering this information. Alternatively, quietly “sneak up” on your dog by peering into a window to see and hear what is going on in your absence.\n\nIf your dog has a cluster of two or three of the symptoms below, or one of the more severe symptoms, a diagnosis of Separation Anxiety Disorder is possible. What are your dog’s typical signs of anxiety after you leave the home?\n\nIncessant barking or crying—but not boredom. Destructive behavior—but not boredom. Defecation or urination in the house—even though otherwise housetrained. Immobility, such as staring out the window or sitting at the door the while you are away. Chewing or scratching at windows, doors, or other exit routes. Other attempts at escape to find you. Repetitive pacing. Self-mutilation or excessive licking of paws or flanks resulting in wounds. These are not unusual behaviors for a dog with SA who has\n\nbeen locked in a crate. Consider this: if you were having a panic attack how would you react to being locked in a closet? Drooling. Wet coat or sweating from the pads of the paws, leaving footprints. Trembling. Frantic greeting although you were gone for just a short while. Anorexia. Not eating high value food while you are away.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 369, "chunk_index": 330, "id": "aa655bd8-964a-4d45-84b4-f13d28ae7872", "word_count": 232, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 301 } }, { "page_content": "found are The most counterconditioning (CC) (see the “Little Peter” experiment discussed below) and systematic desensitization (SD) (2014d). CC is a form of behavior modification used to induce a behavior that is incompatible with an undesirable behavior such as the symptoms seen in SA. CC was central to the development of systematic desensitization, a treatment for phobias in which the patient is taught relaxation techniques and exposed to progressively more anxiety-provoking stimuli. The goals of CC and SD are reducing the dog’s dependence on the pet parent in a stepwise and planned manner. Sargisson notes that some studies indicate the power of SD is greater when combined with CC than when either is used alone.\n\nAn in-depth systematic review of counterconditioning (Keller et al., 2020) examined the effectiveness of counterconditioning at preventing relapse when compared with extinction, which is nonreinforcement of a previously reinforced behavior. A negative emotional experience (in this case anxiety) is replaced with a positive emotional experience (such as eating food) using appetitive counterconditioning (AC). A number of animal studies included in the review demonstrate that counterconditioning is more effective at reducing fear than mere exposure to the stimuli. Relapse to the original negative association is more likely to occur with extinction than with counterconditioning. The review also reveals that earning the reward—such as with an interactive food toy, or Grazing Games scavenging —may lead to even better outcomes than desensitization exposure alone. (See Chapter 10, Enrichment and Grazing Games.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 370, "chunk_index": 331, "id": "c2185a11-adf2-48d2-a6fc-c09e829781fb", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "Sadly, separation anxiety is rarely an easy fix and may take months, not\n\nweeks. However, SA is frequently responsive to treatment if:\n\nA customized plan of treatment is developed The plan is demonstrated clearly by the behavior consultant and The plan is practiced consistently by the pet parent\n\nWith separation anxiety, we are treating insecurity and fear, so building confidence is key to your dog’s recovery (Wilde, 2010). Building confidence in dogs is believed to be similar to building self-esteem and self- efficacy in humans. Force-free training focuses on positive reinforcement which has been shown to increase confidence.\n\nFind a happy medium at each stage of treatment between\n\nIndependence from the pet parent Proximity, that is, nearness in space and time to the pet parent\n\nYour dog must learn to trust that you will return home every single time you leave home. Applying a consistent treatment plan will teach your dog that it is safe to be alone because your dog can trust that you will always return.\n\nAll emotional and behavioral modification programs are two-sided\n\ncoins. Each side of the coin is equally important.\n\nStart doing the things that will help your dog achieve independence while you Stop doing the things that work against your dog’s success\n\nThere are some cardinal rules to follow when implementing a program of recovery from separation anxiety and some rules about what not to do to avoid derailing progress.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 370, "chunk_index": 332, "id": "3d6e0bf2-5339-459c-a91b-2faf3e3bddc7", "word_count": 236, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 306 } }, { "page_content": "Do not punish. Punishing will never help, regardless of what may have happened in your absence, but it will make an already anxiety- stricken dog even more insecure and most likely worsen problems. Do not let your dog cry it out. Research now indicates that letting your dog cry it out creates more, not less insecurity and is seriously detrimental to well-being. Do not put your dog in a long Down/Wait and then leave. A short Down/Wait of less than two minutes may be all right, but you want\n\nyour dog to be either active or relaxed while you are away, not performing obedience tricks awaiting your release. Do not change routines suddenly. For example, post-pandemic routines should be changed gradually in terms of mealtime, walks, and playtime to minimize stress and make the transition back to work more seamless for your dog. Do not leave your dog alone during the initial stages of treatment.\n\nDoggy Enrichment LandTM Containment—The Enhanced Environment\n\nChanging the situational context and adding novelty may enhance learning a new response during counterconditioning (Haubrich et al., 2015).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 371, "chunk_index": 333, "id": "c7506dac-951c-43a5-9c5a-578f39d07495", "word_count": 180, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 234 } }, { "page_content": "Set your dog up for success by creating a Doggy Enrichment Land containment area. Create a private sanctuary for your dog to prevent your dog from following you about the house as you practice the frequent separation techniques outlined below. A doggy playpen, x-pen, metal baby gate, doggy door that allows access to a secured balcony, or using the walls of your home are some popular options. A large gated closet with a view may work. This safe space must never be used as a punishment. Do not lock your dog in a crate. The use of a crate for SA treatment is generally contraindicated. Self-mutilation and injury are not uncommon for panic- stricken dogs locked in a crate. However, there is the likelihood your dog may find an open covered crate a “security blanket.”\n\nTo start treatment, allow your dog to practice being independent in your carefully designed Doggy Enrichment Land while you are home. A separate dog zone where your dog can happily “play house” while you are in another room is emotionally beneficial for your dog in the long term.\n\nYou are the ultimate comfort item . . . but you may also be the trigger prolonging problematic emotional dependency. Make certain your dog does not associate the comfort items below with you leaving your home, or the high value items will become yet another predictor of your impending absence. It’s important to avoid associating the presentation of food with leaving the home.\n\nHere are some comfort items and activities you can provide for your dog", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 372, "chunk_index": 334, "id": "9d25be79-32af-4519-a1be-aaa944cce6e0", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "Grazing Games. Dogs, like us, use food for both survival and enjoyment. Most dogs love, love, love food. Dogs are scavengers by nature so searching for food can help condition new emotions, changing how your dog feels about being alone. For example, scatter high value air-dried food on the floor of your Doggy Enrichment", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 373, "chunk_index": 335, "id": "0b9b96a0-defb-4fbc-9957-8933942d929b", "word_count": 54, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 70 } }, { "page_content": "Land along with a few pieces of food hidden in a rolled-up towel if safe for your dog. Take care that pieces of food do not fall underneath the furniture where your dog cannot reach—this may cause frustration. (See Chapter 10, Grazing Games.) Don’t forget to provide water! Stimulate your dog. We all need something to do. Leave your dog with something to do. Provide special treats judiciously in a planned fashion. Leave favorite chew items and long-lasting food toys in the Doggy Enrichment Land dog zone such as a chew item stuffed with wet food, a bully stick, or soup bone, if safe. Many dogs suffering from separation anxiety become anorexic in the absence of the pet parent, so begin by providing high value items at “happy times,” to create a positive association with special treats. Then, offer these items during separation trials while you are home, and during no stress and low-stress periods when you are both available and unavailable to your dog in the home. (See Chapter 10, Enrichment.) Room with a view. An outdoor view and scent from an open window have a number of positive benefits providing enrichment, novelty, and positive associations that often fascinates dogs. Observing the natural world and smelling the great outdoors distracts dogs from anxiety related to the absence of the pet parent. However, take care to avoid setting up “guarding stations” in your containment area. Favorite toys. Bring out your dog’s favorite safe squeaky, or plush toys that your dog now gets only when practicing no-stress separations or when you are away. Rotate the toys in Doggy Enrichment Land every other day. Your scent. Leave your sweaty t-shirt or dirty socks with your dog if safe! These scent-orienting items can help your dog feel that you are not so far away after all providing a", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 374, "chunk_index": 336, "id": "d74feaab-fbbd-4c24-88e2-14da82bc4c42", "word_count": 305, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 396 } }, { "page_content": "a. Favorite toys. Bring out your dog’s favorite safe squeaky, or plush toys that your dog now gets only when practicing no-stress separations or when you are away. Rotate the toys in Doggy Enrichment Land every other day. Your scent. Leave your sweaty t-shirt or dirty socks with your dog if safe! These scent-orienting items can help your dog feel that you are not so far away after all providing a measure of security. Bedding. If your dog has chewed the bed, try a zippered bed, remove the stuffing, and replace the stuffing with your old, worn, unwashed clothes. The bed will smell like you and will help prevent shredding and destructive behavior. Alternatively, try a dog cot. A warm towel right out of the dryer can help comfort, too. Your voice. Provide a food dispensing voice-toy that dispenses treats and allows you to see, speak and reward your dog via a phone app you can use from work or while you are otherwise away. Alternately,", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 374, "chunk_index": 337, "id": "0c2c7bc0-da75-4d8f-bf51-ba3a1497c1e8", "word_count": 166, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 215 } }, { "page_content": "get a voice toy with a prerecorded loop of your voice saying a few pleasantries to your dog. There is a device available online that records your voice and then “talks” to your dog when your dog nudges it or “talks” once every five minutes. Television and radio. Leave the television tuned to a cooking or shopping channel where nothing emotionally disturbing ever happens! Leave the radio tuned to a station that is calming such as a reggae music, recently shown to be effective, or an easy listening soft rock music station. Keep the volume down.\n\nPracticing separation is the key to success. Make separations a part of your dog’s regular routine. Start small and build confidence slowly and incrementally. Remember, patience and practice are needed for your dog to reach the level of trusting security that you will always return.\n\nExpend anxiety-driven energy and increase endorphins by exercising your dog before leaving home. If you cannot walk or run your dog, use a lure-chase toy, for example. Also, make certain your dog has sufficient elimination opportunities before you leave.\n\nBegin training with your dog under the threshold or reactivity where you are not seeing any of the anxiety symptoms listed above—before and after you leave home—then increase the duration of your absence and distance from you as long as your dog continues to stay under threshold.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 375, "chunk_index": 338, "id": "043bdace-dfb2-4b37-b6f4-af8e5acd4da1", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "Providing frequent separations while you are at home. Begin frequent separations of very short duration behind a closed door and/or with your dog contained in the Doggy Enrichment Land-style enclosure. Too much space can cause some dogs to feel insecure. Too little space can cause some dogs to feel insecure, too. Make your dog’s “room” as comfortable and happy as possible. Establishing a safety cue. Stand in front of your dog with your dog contained in Doggy Enrichment Land and say, “I’ll Be Back.” Turn around with your back to your dog, then immediately turn back to face your dog again, saying in a calm voice, “I’m Back.” Practice in four two-minute sessions per day. Increase both distance and duration separately and incrementally. Once your dog trusts that you will be", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 375, "chunk_index": 339, "id": "2b98794a-d9f4-46c6-8646-5fc371756b23", "word_count": 131, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 170 } }, { "page_content": "back, leave your dog with the familiar upbeat parting cue, “I’ll be back.” Begin with pass-bys. Allow your dog to get a comforting glimpse of you and a smile as you walk by—but do not provide interaction once you have established that it is now “alone time”. Closing the door. Slowly acclimating your dog to accepting a barrier between the two of you begins the process of healing from separation anxiety. Starting with the bathroom, keep your dog on the other side of a closed door inside the home for short periods each day. If your dog tries to follow you into the bathroom, toss down grazing treats and provide a comfort item, then gently close the door. You may need to begin this process using a baby gate or a partially closed door. Talk to your dog through the door if talking keeps symptoms from emerging. Later, slowly phase out talking. Extending distance and duration in baby steps. The desensitization process begins with practice sessions of very short duration with longer and longer durations as your goal. Time “away” is increased in increments as small as 10-seconds, if necessary. Step outdoors using your voice behind the door to let your dog know you are still near. Come back indoors. Later, walk to the mailbox on the street in front of your home. Come back home. Later, walk to the corner. Come back home. Slowly increase to 15 minutes, then, increase to one hour, then, increase to 1.5 hours of being alone two times a day, every day, for life. Progress may be slow at first, however the duration of stress- free alone time your dog can tolerate comfortably may increase quickly as learning progresses. Once your dog can manage your absence from 30–90 minutes, you dog will generally be sufficiently acclimated to being separated from you for a morning or afternoon. Sleeping", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 376, "chunk_index": 340, "id": "06d7d7e9-637b-46c4-b712-7667b22c0553", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "ease to 1.5 hours of being alone two times a day, every day, for life. Progress may be slow at first, however the duration of stress- free alone time your dog can tolerate comfortably may increase quickly as learning progresses. Once your dog can manage your absence from 30–90 minutes, you dog will generally be sufficiently acclimated to being separated from you for a morning or afternoon. Sleeping arrangements. Customize your sleeping routines to meet the needs of your dog’s level of anxiety being generous with comforting in every way. Be aware that sleeping in bed with you may have an effect on your dog’s attachment to you particularly if your dog already suffers from separation anxiety. You may choose to snuggle together in bed but when it is time to sleep, consider having your dog sleep right next to you in a comfy bed on the floor or in a cloth crate on your bed. This is not always the optimal choice:", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 376, "chunk_index": 341, "id": "5646cbd4-488e-4458-91e7-693af1b2c627", "word_count": 163, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 211 } }, { "page_content": "puppies and rescued dogs and may need more hands-on comforting than the average dog.\n\nJoseph Wolpe, the father of systematic desensitization, used food/eating in his anti-anxiety experiments. His findings revolutionized behavioral therapy (Wolpe, 1954b). His work demonstrated that there is compelling evidence for the value of food in incrementally decreasing anxiety. Most, but not all, independently validated research continues to point in this direction.\n\nWolpe (Wolpe, 1954a) suggests that facing one’s fears does not always resolve them but the key to overcoming fear is accomplished “by degrees.” This is especially true for dogs whose cognitive development is comparable to that of a 2- to 3-year-old child. We give a bottle to a baby who cries. Even if the baby is not hungry, the act of suckling may bring about relaxation (the first step in DS). Similarly, giving a dog an interactive food toy or a safe bone may have the same pacifying effect. One problem is that the absence of the reward may lead to frustration and result in a return to the maladaptive behavior.\n\nCounterconditioning involves providing a stimulus of the opposite valence, meaning one that’s seen as being “good” as opposed to “bad.” Food provides a positive valence that offsets the negative valence of being left alone. The emotional state of anxiety is incompatible with relaxation and eating (Lindsay, 2008).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 377, "chunk_index": 342, "id": "f8319b47-1d20-4b92-8672-5124b50d09e2", "word_count": 222, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 288 } }, { "page_content": "Eating acts as a form of displacement behavior and distraction: displacement behaviors and distraction are known to decrease anxiety. Displacement activities are well-documented coping mechanisms that discharge tension in the scientific literature on learning. Research indicates that food can play a powerful role in changing emotions, in this case anxiety about and the fear of being alone. Eating may have a therapeutic effect on anxiety and inhibit its resurfacing.\n\n“Little Peter” is one of the earliest demonstrations of behavior modification illustrating how using high-value food can decrease anxiety and lower heart rate when used in separation anxiety protocols (Keller, 2020). This method was a precursor to the systematic desensitization therapies that followed. In classic psychology and learning literature, the “Little Peter” experiment (Jones, 1924) used counterconditioning to remove\n\nthree-year-old Peter’s fear of rabbits. A rabbit was placed in the room while Peter ate candy. The candy served as an appetitive food stimulus. The rabbit was moved closer and closer over the course of numerous sessions while Peter ate candy and Peter’s fear of the rabbit gradually subsided. When done right, providing food through enrichment can help hasten a conditioned emotional response (CER).", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 377, "chunk_index": 343, "id": "36b0b71c-203e-416f-9f3a-f688847b3aa3", "word_count": 192, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 249 } }, { "page_content": "Many dogs who suffer from SA are anorexic in the absence of the primary pet parent. It’s imperative that the pet parent properly introduce food in a positive manner while at home. This helps set your dog up for success when you leave. There is a popular movement afoot encouraging non-dependence on food-inclusive therapies for SA. Although it may be more difficult to clearly interpret the body language of a dog engaged in a food-seeking activity, that does not necessarily justify eliminating food in SA treatment if it benefits the dog. As with any behavior modification retraining, a dog should be trained under the dog’s threshold of reactivity in all stages of treatment.\n\nPredeparture Desensitization and Counterconditioning Triggers\n\nChange the emotional impact of the activities you typically perform before leaving the home. Desensitization and Counterconditioning begin with practice sessions where you perform the routines you have previously performed before you leave the house but you do not leave the house, turning the triggers that previously lead to your departure into neutral events for your dog. This technique changes the emotional meaning of the triggers which were past predictors of your departure.\n\nTriggers. Track What You Typically Do Before Leaving the Home\n\nYour dog has learned that a sequence of activities predict that you are preparing to leave the house. Observe your dog closely and list the possible triggers setting your dog’s stress reaction in motion. Some examples of triggers are", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 378, "chunk_index": 344, "id": "9d7a99ce-9546-45f0-a706-1561f115d7d0", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "Buzzing of your alarm clock going off Rushing around the house Applying make-up or perfume (scent trigger)\n\nShaving and applying aftershave (scent trigger) Putting on your shoes Putting on your coat Jangling your keys Picking up a purse and/or briefcase Approaching the door Closing the door Driving away in your car\n\nYour dog cannot produce a continual stream of adrenaline for a long period of time. If you leaving the home is not always preceded by the jangling of keys, the jangling of keys will no longer be a signal you are leaving. Your dog will eventually hear the jangling of keys as “background noise” and stop associating the sound of jangling keys with being left alone. If you sit down and watch television while jangling your keys for example, the trigger will in time lose the power to generate fear and anxiety. The same learning principal applies to other triggers. Set the alarm clock for different times during the day but don’t go out.\n\n1. Pick up your keys, go to the door, but do not leave. Repeat again and again.\n\n2. Open and close the door but do not leave. Repeat again and again. 3. Step outside, close the door, and come back inside after 3 seconds. Increase your away time in small increments.\n\n4. Add walking to your car. Go back indoors. 5. Add starting the ignition of the car. Go back indoors. Now, start adding more distance and duration as long as your dog is staying under threshold. Be certain your dog is successful at being left alone at one level before adding the next level of difficulty in terms of duration and distance. Changing Your Routines—Arrivals and Departures", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 378, "chunk_index": 345, "id": "6cac582f-2c29-4e9f-919a-c90a2dd3729a", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "A well-structured change in routine may break the cycle of anxiety if practiced carefully and consistently. The goal is to decrease the emotional gap between your presence and your absence. Make your arrival home less emotionally filled with glee and make your departure less emotionally filled with regret. Get your dog off the adrenaline roller-coaster and refrain from immediate enthusiastic greetings and sad goodbyes. This is often difficult for pet parents; however, try to keep your dog’s best long-term interest in mind as your priority.\n\nMake your arrivals home somewhat boring. Try delivering your most enthusiastic greeting after your dog has calmed down. Your dog is thrilled that you are home. Do not add kindling to an already raging emotional fire. For example, when you arrive home, get into the habit of smiling, saying “Hi” with a short pet, then check your email while your dog calms down. Make your departures from home calmly upbeat. If you are sad as you leave home, your dog will not understand why you are sad but will get the message that “Something’s wrong with Mommy,” from the tone of your voice. It may serve to trigger or increase the panic already set in motion. Alternatively, use an upbeat tone of voice when you leave home.\n\nIf you continue to have difficulty or if your dog still has more than one of the symptoms of separation anxiety, work with a force-free behavioral\n\nconsultant or consider consulting with an integrative veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 380, "chunk_index": 346, "id": "b6b4c464-8429-4e17-9e55-00ead837ef8d", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "Severe cases of separation anxiety that do not respond to a professionally and consistently applied emotional and behavioral modification program may warrant the use of medication. If your dog’s response to separation does not improve or worsens, consider the advisability of adding anti- anxiety or panic medication to the treatment plan (Overall, 2013, p. 684). It is ill-advised to employ pharmaceutical treatment without implementing an emotional and behavioral modification protocol. Some researchers support the use of behavioral therapy alone because no improvement was found when comparing medication to a placebo, although pharmacological interventions along with behavioral therapy may be helpful.\n\nWhen medicating, remember medication AND an emotional and behavioral modification program such as the one outlined above should always go hand-in-glove. Remember, your dog cannot self-report on the effects of medication, and in some dogs, there are undesirable side-effects such as paradoxical (opposite) side-effects. Please consult your veterinary behaviorist for medication options.", "metadata": { "source": "data/TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "page": 381, "chunk_index": 347, "id": "b81e4d1c-3bde-41b5-99b1-e925d2697bed", "word_count": 152, "book_title": "The Do No Harm Dog Training and Behavior Handbook", "book_description": "Non-violent dog training and behavior manual", "book_filename": "TheDoNoHarm DogTrainingandBehaviorHanbook.pdf", "token_count_approx": 197 } }, { "page_content": "improve your tennis stroke, your golf game, your math skills, your memory. All by using the principles of training with reinforcement.\n\nThese principles are laws, like the laws of physics. They underlie all learning-teaching situations as surely as the law of gravity underlies the falling of an apple. Whenever we attempt to change behavior, in ourselves or in others, we are using these laws, whether we know it or not.\n\nUsually we are using them inappropriately. We threaten, we argue, we coerce, we deprive. We pounce on others when things go wrong and pass up the chance to praise them when things go right. We are harsh and impatient with our children, with each other, with ourselves even; and we feel guilty over that harshness. We know that with better methods we could accomplish our ends faster, and without causing distress, but we can't conceive of those methods. We are just not attuned to the ways in which modern trainers take advantage of the laws of positive reinforcement.\n\nWhatever the training task, whether keeping a four-year-old quiet in public, housebreaking a puppy, coaching a team, or memorizing a poem, it will go faster, and better, and be more fun, if you know how to use positive reinforcement.\n\nThe laws of reinforcement are simple; you can put the whole business on\n\na blackboard in ten minutes and learn it in an hour. Applying these laws is more of a challenge; training by reinforcement is like a game, one dependent upon quick thinking.\n\nAnyone can be a trainer; some people are good at it from the very start. You do not need special qualities of patience, or a forceful personality, or a way with animals or children, or what circus trainer Frank Buck used to call the power of the human eye. You just need to know what you're doing.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 6, "chunk_index": 0, "id": "c53ed59a-d990-4bd2-a280-969454668620", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "There have always been people with an intuitive understanding of how\n\nto apply the laws of training. We call them gifted teachers, brilliant commanding officers, winning coaches, genius animal trainers. I've observed some theater directors and many symphony orchestra conductors who are wonderfully skilled at using reinforcement. These gifted trainers don't need a book to be able to take advantage of the laws that affect training. For the rest of us, however, those of us muddling along with an\n\nuncontrolled pet or at cross-purposes with a child or coworker, a knowledge of how reinforcement really works can be a godsend.\n\nReinforcement training is not a system of reward and punishment - by\n\nand large modern trainers don't even use those words. The concept of reward and punishment carries a great freight of emotional associations and interpretations, such as desire and dread and guilt and shoulds and ought to's. For example, we give rewards to others for things we did ourselves - such as ice cream to a child to make up for a scolding. We also tend to think we know what a reward should be: ice cream, for example, or praise. But some people don't like ice cream, and praise from the wrong person or for the wrong reason may hurt. In some cases praise from a teacher may guarantee ridicule from classmates.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 6, "chunk_index": 1, "id": "39dd6ae8-2fe4-498e-8e1a-e37bddae6892", "word_count": 224, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 291 } }, { "page_content": "We expect people to do the right thing without reward. Our teenage daughter should wash the dishes because that's her duty to us. We are angry if children or employees break things, steal, arrive late, speak rudely, and so on, because they should know better. We punish, often long after the behavior occurred - sending people to prison being a prime example - thus creating an event that may have no effect on future behavior, and which in fact is merely retribution. Nevertheless we think of such punishment as education, and people easily refer to it in that way: \"I taught him a lesson.\"\n\nModern reinforcement training is based not on these folk beliefs but on behavioral science. Scientifically speaking, reinforcement is an event that (a) occurs during or upon completion of a behavior; and (b) increases the likelihood of that behavior occurring in the future. The key elements here are two: the two events are connected in real time - the behavior engenders the reinforcement - and then the behavior occurs more frequently.\n\nReinforcers may be positive, something the learner might like and want\n\nmore of, such as a smile or a pat, or they might be negative, something to avoid, such as a yank on a leash or a frown. What's critical is that there is a temporal relationship between them - the behavior occurs, then the reinforcer occurs, and subsequently the behavior that brought the good result or averted the bad occurs more often. In fact, the definition works in both directions, like a feedback loop: If the behavior does not increase, then either the reinforcer was presented too early or too late, or the payoff you selected was not reinforcing to that individual.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 7, "chunk_index": 2, "id": "712f0b94-579a-4261-8f96-102749539384", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "In addition, I believe there's an important difference between\n\nreinforcement theory, the science, and reinforcement training, a specific application of that science. Research shows that following a behavior with a pleasant consequence increases the behavior. That's true; but in practice, to get the sensational results we trainers have now come to expect, the reinforcer has to occur in the very instant the behavior is taking place. Bingo! Now! In the instant, in real time, you, the learner, need to know that what you're doing right now has won you a prize.\n\nModern trainers have developed some great shortcuts for reinforcing\n\ninstantaneously: primarily the use of a marker signal to identify the behavior. This revised version of Don't Shoot the Dog! is about the laws of reinforcement, some practical ways to use those laws in the real world, and the grassroots movement called, at least at present, clicker training, which is taking the technology into new and unexplored terrain.\n\nI first learned about training with positive reinforcement in Hawaii, where in 1963 I signed on as head dolphin trainer at an oceanarium, Sea Life Park. I had trained dogs and horses by traditional methods, but dolphins were a different proposition; you cannot use a leash or a bridle or even your fist on an animal that just swims away. Positive reinforcers - primarily a bucket of fish - were the only tools we had.\n\nA psychologist outlined for me the principles of training by", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 8, "chunk_index": 3, "id": "3ff45ac5-5902-4b25-b00a-fcc96ab9125e", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "reinforcement. The art of applying those principles I learned from working with the dolphins. Schooled as a biologist, and with a lifelong interest in animal behavior, I found myself fascinated, not so much with the dolphins as with what could be communicated between us - from me to the animal and from the animal to me - during this kind of training. I applied what I'd learned from dolphin training to the training of other animals. And I began to notice some applications of the system creeping into my daily life. For example, I stopped yelling at my kids, because I was noticing that yelling didn't work. Watching for behavior I liked, and reinforcing it when it occurred, worked a lot better and kept the peace too.\n\nThere is a solid body of scientific theory underlying the lessons I learned from dolphin training. We shall go considerably beyond theory in this book, since as far as I know, the rules for applying these theories are largely undescribed by science and in my opinion often misapplied by scientists.\n\nBut the fundamental laws are well established and must be taken into account when training.\n\nThe study of this body of theory is variously known as behavior modification, reinforcement theory, operant conditioning, behaviorism, behavioral psychology, and behavior analysis: the branch of psychology largely credited to Harvard professor B. E Skinner.\n\nI know of no other modern body of scientific information that has been", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 8, "chunk_index": 4, "id": "c8c48a03-cced-4889-818e-416a3d38e747", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "so vilified, misunderstood, misinterpreted, overinterpreted, and misused. The very name of Skinner arouses ire in those who champion \"free will\" as a characteristic that separates man from beast. To people schooled in the humanistic tradition, the manipulation of human behavior by some sort of conscious technique seems incorrigibly wicked, in spite of the obvious fact that we all go around trying to manipulate one another's behavior all the time, by whatever means come to hand.\n\nWhile humanists have been attacking behaviorism and Skinner himself with a fervor that used to be reserved for religious heresies, behaviorism has swelled into a huge branch of psychology, with university departments, clinical practitioners, professional journals, international congresses, graduate studies programs, doctrines, schisms, and masses and masses of literature.\n\nAnd there have been benefits. Some disorders - autism, for example -\n\nseem to respond to shaping and reinforcement as to no other treatment. Many individual therapists have been extremely successful in solving the emotional problems of patients by using behavioral techniques. The effectiveness, at least in some circumstances, of simply altering behavior rather than delving into its origins has contributed to the rise of family therapy, in which every family member's behavior is looked at, not just the behavior of the one who seems most obviously in distress. This makes eminent good sense.\n\nTeaching machines and programmed textbooks derived from Skinnerian", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 9, "chunk_index": 5, "id": "04d20191-a78a-4787-96b8-dae28634897e", "word_count": 226, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 293 } }, { "page_content": "theory were early attempts to shape learning step by step and to reinforce the student for correct responses. These early mechanisms were clumsy but led directly to CAI, Computer-Assisted Instruction, which is great fun because of the amusing nature of the reinforcers (fireworks, dancing robots)\n\nand highly effective because of the computer's perfect timing. Reinforcement programs using tokens or chits that can be accumulated and traded for candy, cigarettes, or privileges have been established in mental hospitals and other institutions. Self-training programs for weight control and other habit changes abound. Effective educational systems based on principles of shaping and reinforcement, such as Precision Teaching and Direct Instruction, are making inroads in our schools. And biofeedback is an interesting application of reinforcement to training of physiological responses.\n\nAcademicians have studied the most minute aspects of conditioning. One finding shows, for example, that if you make a chart to keep track of your progress in some self-training program, you will be more likely to maintain new habits if you solidly fill in a little square every day on the chart, rather than just putting a check mark in the square.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 9, "chunk_index": 6, "id": "454bf2c1-e6f6-4eec-9874-4b29fe98003a", "word_count": 188, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 244 } }, { "page_content": "This absorption with detail has valid psychological purposes, but one does not often find much good training in it. Training is a loop, a two-way communication in which an event at one end of the loop changes events at the other, exactly like a cybernetic feedback system; yet many psychologists treat their work as something they do to a subject, not with the subject. To a real trainer, the idiosyncratic and unexpected responses any subject can give are the most interesting and potentially the most fruitful events in the training process; yet almost all experimental work is designed to ignore or minimize individualistic responses. Devising methods for what Skinner named shaping, the progressive changing of behavior, and carrying out those methods, is a creative process. Yet the psychological literature abounds with shaping programs that are so unimaginative, not to say ham- handed, that they constitute in my opinion cruel and unusual punishment. Take, for example, in one recent journal, a treatment for bed-wetting that involved not only putting \"wetness\" sensors in the child's bed but having the therapist spend the night with the child! The authors had the grace to say apologetically that it was rather expensive for the family. How about the expense to the child's psyche? This kind of \"behavioral\" solution is like trying to kill flies with a shovel.\n\nSchopenhauer once said that every original idea is first ridiculed, then\n\nvigorously attacked, and finally taken for granted. As far as I can see,", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 10, "chunk_index": 7, "id": "1a069199-e5ae-4b0c-aa8a-d1de9af4f532", "word_count": 246, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 319 } }, { "page_content": "reinforcement theory has been no exception. Skinner was widely ridiculed years ago for demonstrating shaping by developing a pair of Ping-Pong- playing pigeons. The warm, comfortable, self-cleansing, entertainment- providing crib he built for his infant daughters was derided as an inhumane \"baby box,\" immoral and heretical. Rumors still go around that his daughters went mad, when in fact both of them are successful professional women and quite delightful people. Finally, nowadays many educated people treat reinforcement theory as if it were something not terribly important that they have known and understood all along. In fact most people don't understand it, or they would not behave so badly to the people around them.\n\nIn the years since my dolphin-training experiences, I have lectured and\n\nwritten about the laws of reinforcement in academic and professional circles as well as for the general public. I've taught this kind of training to high school, college, and graduate students, to housewives and zookeepers, to family and friends, and, in weekend seminars, to several thousand dog owners and trainers. I have watched and studied all kinds of other trainers, from cowboys to coaches, and I've noticed that the principles of reinforcement training are gradually seeping into our general awareness. Hollywood animal trainers call the use of positive reinforcement \"affection training\" and are using these techniques to accomplish behaviors impossible to obtain by force such as many of the behaviors of pigs and other animals in the movie Babe. Many Olympic coaches nowadays use positive reinforcement and shaping, instead of relying on old-fashioned browbeating, and have achieved notable improvements in performance.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 11, "chunk_index": 8, "id": "6a68da54-6868-4cc3-9ede-b3395da52c19", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "Nowhere, however, have I found the rules of reinforcement theory written down so that they could be of use in immediate practical situations. So here they are, explained in this book as I understand them and as I see them used and misused in real life.\n\nReinforcement training does not solve all problems - it will not fatten your bank account, it cannot save a bad marriage, and it will not overhaul serious personality disorders. Some situations, such as a crying baby, are not training problems and require other kinds of solutions. Some behaviors, in animals and people, have genetic components that may be difficult or impossible to modify by training. Some problems are not worth the training\n\ntime. But with many of life's challenges, tasks, and annoyances, correct use of reinforcement can help.\n\nUsing positive reinforcers in one situation may show you how to use them in others. As a dolphin researcher whom I worked with sourly put it, \"Nobody should be allowed to have a baby until they have first been required to train a chicken,\" meaning that the experience of getting results with a chicken, an organism that cannot be trained by force, should make it clear that you don't need to use punishers to get results with a baby. And the experience should give you some ideas about reinforcing baby behavior you want.\n\nI have noticed that most dolphin trainers, who must develop the skills of", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 11, "chunk_index": 9, "id": "f5aef10c-92ba-4e95-9409-4ed61845e379", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "using positive reinforcers in their daily work, have strikingly pleasant and agreeable children. This book will not guarantee you agreeable children. In fact, it promises no specific results or skills. What it will give you is the fundamental principles underlying all training, and some guidelines on how to apply these principles creatively in varying situations. It may enable you to clear up annoyances that have been bothering you for years, or to make advances in areas where you have been stymied. It will certainly, if you wish, enable you to train a chicken.\n\nThere seems to be a natural order to reinforcement training. These chapters come in the sequence in which training events, from simple to complex, really take place, and this is also the sequence in which people seem to learn most easily to be real trainers. The organization of this book is progressive in order to develop a comprehensive understanding of training with positive reinforcers. Its applications, however, are meant to be practical. Throughout the book's chapters real-life situations are offered as illustrations. Specific methods should be treated as suggestions or inspirations, rather than as definitive instructions.\n\nA reinforcer is anything that, occurring in conjunction with an act, tends\n\nto increase the probability that the act will occur again.\n\nMemorize that statement. It is the secret of good training.\n\nThere are two kinds of reinforcers: positive and negative. A positive reinforcer is something the subject wants, such as food, petting, or praise. A negative reinforcer is something the subject wants to avoid - a blow, a frown, an unpleasant sound. (The warning buzzer in a car if you don't fasten your seat belt is a negative reinforcer.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 12, "chunk_index": 10, "id": "b977a7db-bb94-4d16-af29-e5afbac0e204", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Behavior that is already occurring, no matter how sporadically, can always be intensified with positive reinforcement. If you call a puppy and it comes, and you pet it, the pup's coming when called will become more and more reliable even without any other training. Suppose you want someone to telephone you - your offspring, your parent, your lover. If he or she doesn't call, there isn't much you can do about it. A major point in training with reinforcement is that you can't reinforce behavior that is not occurring. If, on the other hand, you are always delighted when your loved ones do call, so that the behavior is positively reinforced, the likelihood is that the incidence of their calling will probably increase. (Of course, if you apply negative reinforcement - \"Why haven't you called, why do I have to call you, you never call me,\" and so on, remarks likely to annoy - you are setting up a situation in which the caller avoids such annoyance by not calling you; in fact, you are training them not to call.)\n\nSimply offering positive reinforcement for a behavior is the most rudimentary part of reinforcement training. In the scientific literature, you can find psychologists saying, \"Behavioral methods were used,\" or, \"The problem was solved by a behavioral approach.\" All this means, usually, is that they switched to positive reinforcement from whatever other method they were using. It doesn't imply that they used the whole bag of tricks described in this book; they may not even be aware of them.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 13, "chunk_index": 11, "id": "6f288fca-aae7-4798-a199-f36d558c1430", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "Yet switching to positive reinforcement is often all that is necessary. It is\n\nby far the most effective way to help the bed-wetter, for example: private praise and a hug for dry sheets in the morning, when they do occur.\n\nPositive reinforcement can even work on yourself. At a Shakespeare study group I once belonged to I met a Wall Street lawyer in his late forties\n\nwho was an avid squash player. The man had overheard me chatting about training, and on his way out the door afterward he remarked that he thought he would try positive reinforcement on his squash game. Instead of cursing his errors, as was his habit, he would try praising his good shots.\n\nTwo weeks later I ran into him again. \"How's the squash game?\" I asked.\n\nA look of wonder and joy crossed his face, an expression not frequently seen on Wall Street lawyers.\n\n\"At first I felt like a damned fool,\" he told me, \"saying 'Way to go, Pete,\n\nattaboy' for every good shot. Hell, when I was practicing alone, I even patted myself on the back. And then my game started to get better. I'm four rungs higher on the club ladder than I've ever been. I'm whipping people I could hardly take a point from before. And I'm having more fun. Since I'm not yelling at myself all the time, I don't finish a game feeling angry and disappointed. If I made a bad shot, never mind, good ones will come along. And I find I really enjoy it when the other guy makes a mistake, gets mad, throws his racquet - I know it won't help his game, and I just smile ... \"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 13, "chunk_index": 12, "id": "4dd993d0-111d-4d72-badc-1d5c09bb497e", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "What a fiendish opponent. And just from switching to positive\n\nReinforcers are relative, not absolute. Rain is a positive reinforcer to ducks, a negative reinforcer to cats, and a matter of indifference, at least in mild weather, to cows. Food is not a positive reinforcer if you're full. Smiles and praise may be useless as reinforcers if the subject is trying to get you mad. In order to be reinforcing, the item chosen must be something the subject wants.\n\nIt is useful to have a variety of reinforcers for any training situation. At\n\nthe Sea World oceanariums, killer whales are given many reinforcers, including fish (their food), stroking and scratching on different parts of the body, social attention, toys, and so on. Whole shows are run in which the animals never know which behavior will be reinforced next or what the reinforcer will be; the \"surprises\" are so interesting for the animals that the shows can be run almost entirely without the standard fish reinforcers; the animals get their food at the end of the day. The necessity of switching constantly from one reinforcer to another is challenging and interesting for the trainers, too.\n\nPositive reinforcement is good for human relationships. It is the basis of\n\nthe art of giving presents: guessing at something that will be definitely reinforcing (guessing right is reinforcing for the giver, too). In our culture, present giving is often left to women. I even know of one family in which the mother buys all the Christmas presents to and from everyone. It causes amusement on Christmas morning, brothers and sisters saying, \"Let's see, this is from Anne to Billy,\" when everyone knows Anne had nothing to do with it. But it does not sharpen the children's skills at selecting ways to reinforce other people.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 14, "chunk_index": 13, "id": "c803a073-98f8-4d25-bcf0-7b4d506ca2e3", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "In our culture a man who has become observant about positive\n\nreinforcement has a great advantage over other men. As a mother, I made sure that my sons learned how to give presents. Once, for example, when they were quite young, seven and five, I took them to a rather fancy store and had them select two dresses, one each, for their even younger sister. They enjoyed lolling about in the plush chairs, approving or disapproving of each dress as she modeled it. Their little sister enjoyed it too; and she had the ultimate veto power. And so, thanks to this and similar exercises, they all learned how to take a real interest in what other people want; how to enjoy finding effective positive reinforcers for the people you love.\n\nA reinforcer is something that increases a behavior; but it doesn't have to\n\nbe something the learner wants. Avoiding something you dislike can be reinforcing, too. Laboratory research shows that behavior can be increased by aversive stimuli if a change in behavior will make the aversive stimulus go away. Such stimuli are called negative reinforcers: things a person or animal will work to avoid.\n\nNegative reinforcers may consist of the mildest of aversive stimuli - a derisive glance from a friend when you make a poor joke, or a slight draft from an air conditioner that causes you to get up and move to another chair. However, even very extreme aversives, from public humiliation to electric shock, may function as negative reinforcers as well as being punishing experiences. We may experience being yelled at as highly punitive, but we", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 15, "chunk_index": 14, "id": "89334e23-ddb1-4ebd-8f40-570bb7973b61", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "also quickly learn to come in to work the back way when the boss who has often yelled at us is standing in the front door.\n\nNegative reinforcers are aversives that can be halted or avoided by\n\nchanging behavior. As soon as the new behavior starts, the aversive stimulus stops, and thus the new behavior is strengthened. Suppose that while sitting in my aunt's living room, I happen to put my feet on the coffee table as I would at home. My aunt raises a disapproving eyebrow. I put my feet on the floor again. Her face relaxes. I feel relieved.\n\nThe raised eyebrow was an aversive stimulus acting as a negative reinforcer. Because I was able to halt the aversive stimulus, the new behavior - keeping my feet on the floor - is more likely to occur again, at least at my aunt's house, but possibly in other houses, too.\n\nTraining can be done almost entirely with negative reinforcers, and much traditional animal training is done exactly that way The horse learns to turn left when the left rein is pulled, because the annoying pressure in its mouth ceases when the turn is made. The lion backs onto a pedestal and stays there, to avoid the intrusive whip or chair held near its face.\n\nNegative reinforcement, however, is not the same as punishment. So\n\nwhat is the difference? In the first edition of this book I wrote that punishment is an aversive stimulus that occurs after the behavior it was meant to modify, and therefore it can have no effect on the behavior. \"A boy being spanked for a bad report card may or may not get better report cards in the future, but he surely can't change the one he has just brought home.\" Indeed, when we punish with intent, we frequently do it far too late, but that is not the actual difference between punishment and negative reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 16, "chunk_index": 15, "id": "210c8df8-3cf7-4e3e-91f5-e4504263e14d", "word_count": 321, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 417 } }, { "page_content": "Modern behavior analysts identify punishment as any event that stops behavior. A baby starts to put a hairpin into the electric socket. His mother grabs him and/or slaps his hand away from the socket: this life-threatening behavior has to be interrupted now. The behavior stops. Lots of other things may start - the baby cries, the mother feels bad, and so on - but the hairpin- in-electric-outlet behavior ceases, at least for that moment. That's what punishment does.\n\nB. F. Skinner was more precise. He defined punishment as what happens when a behavior results in the loss of something desirable - the pleasure of investigating if this object can fit into that hole, a popular pastime with babies - or when the behavior results in the delivery of something undesirable. However, in both cases, while the ongoing behavior stops, there is no predictable outcome in the future. We know that reinforcers strengthen behavior in the future, but a punisher will not result in predictable changes.\n\nFor example, will grabbing the baby or smacking his hand, even if his mother's timing is perfect, guarantee that the baby won't try sticking things into outlets again? I doubt it. Ask any parent. What really happens is that we pick up small objects, we put covers over the wall outlets, or we move furniture in front of them, and eventually the baby outgrows this particular urge.\n\nThe behavior analysts look at it this way. Reinforcement and punishment", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 16, "chunk_index": 16, "id": "cee8bd4b-e562-40b0-834a-293a5621a2af", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "are each a process, defined by results. Negative reinforcers can be used effectively to train behavior, and even though aversive stimuli are involved, the process can be relatively benign. Here (with thanks to llama expert Jim Logan) is a nice use of the negative reinforcer with a semidomestic animal, the llama, kept in the United States as pets and elsewhere as pack animals and for their wool.\n\nLlamas are timid and shy, like horses. Unless handled a lot when young,\n\nthey can be hard to approach. So, while operant conditioning with a food reinforcer works splendidly with llamas, if a llama is too skittish to come close enough to a person to take the food, here's what modern llama trainers do. They use a clicker as a signal to tell the llama that what it is doing has earned a reinforcer, but the primary or real reinforcer is the removal of a negative reinforcer, an aversive.\n\nIn effect, you say to the llama, \"Will you stand still if I approach within\n\nthirty feet? Yes? Good. I'll click my clicker and turn and go farther away.\n\n\"Now will you stand still if I approach within twenty-five feet? Yes?\n\nUsing the click to mark the behavior of standing still, with the scary person turning and going away again as the reinforcer, one can sometimes\n\nget within touching distance in five or ten minutes. The llama, as it were, is in control. As long as it stands still, it can make you go away! So it stands still, even when the person is right next to it.\n\nWhen one has touched the llama several times and then retreated, the ice", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 17, "chunk_index": 17, "id": "5a812c76-ea3c-477f-b166-5aef59f1d391", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "is broken. This person is no longer as scary. Now it's time for the feed bucket. The communication loop becomes \"May I touch you while you stand still? Yes? Click and here's some delicious food.\" And the llama is on its way to earning positive reinforcers, including food and scratching and petting, with its splendid new behavior of standing still instead of heading for the next county.\n\nThis use of retreat, or easing back when the desired behavior occurs, is an important aspect of most of the so-called \"horse whisperer\" techniques. In most of these methods the trainer works with a loose horse in a confined area and proceeds in a relatively short time to transform a horse in flight to a horse calmly accepting a human. The horse, once perhaps completely wild, becomes so calm, even accepting a saddle and rider, that the total effect is magical.\n\nTrainers who use these techniques often have superstitious explanations\n\nfor what is happening; and while many have formed the habit of making some sound or motion that functions as the marker signal or the conditioned reinforcer, few are consciously aware of doing so. Nevertheless, it is not magic at work; it is the laws of operant conditioning.\n\nWhile negative reinforcement is a useful process, it's important to remember that each instance of negative reinforcement also contains a punisher. When you pull on the left rein, until the moment that the horse turns, you are punishing going straight ahead. Overuse of negative reinforcers and other aversives can lead to what Murray Sidman, Ph.D., calls \"fallout,\" the undesirable side effects of punishment (see Chapter 4).", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 18, "chunk_index": 18, "id": "8bf8b716-e3e7-41e9-830f-84dc4dfa1366", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "As already stated, a reinforcer must occur in conjunction with the act it\n\nis meant to modify. The timing of the arrival of the reinforcer is information. It tells the learner exactly what it is you like. When one is trying to learn, the informational content of a reinforcer becomes even more\n\nimportant than the reinforcer itself. In coaching athletes or training dancers, it is the instructor's shouted \"Yes!\" or \"Good!,\" marking a movement as it occurs, that truly gives the needed information - not the debriefing later in the dressing room.\n\nLaggardly reinforcement is the beginning trainers biggest problem. The\n\ndog sits, but by the time the owner says \"Good dog,\" the dog is standing again. What behavior did \"Good dog\" reinforce? Standing up. Whenever you find yourself having difficulties in a training situation, the first question to ask yourself is whether you are reinforcing too late. If you are working with a person or an animal and are caught up in the thick of the action, it sometimes helps to have someone else watch for late reinforcers.\n\nWe are always reinforcing one another too late. \"Gee, honey, you looked\n\ngreat last night\" is quite different from the same comment said at the moment. The delayed reinforcer may even have deleterious effect (\"What's the matter, don't I look great now?\"). We have a touching trust in the powers of words to cover our lapses in timing.\n\nReinforcing too early is also ineffective. At the Bronx Zoo the keepers", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 18, "chunk_index": 19, "id": "6ebce049-5c83-4d79-8f4a-109daf997290", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "were having trouble with a gorilla. They needed to get it into its outdoor pen in order to clean the indoor cage, but it had taken to sitting in the doorway, where with its enormous strength it could prevent the sliding door from being closed. When the keepers put food outside, or waved bananas enticingly, the gorilla either ignored them or snatched the food and ran back to its door before it could be shut. A trainer on the zoo staff was asked to look at the problem. He pointed out that banana waving and the tossing in of food were attempts to reinforce behavior that hadn't occurred yet. The name for this is bribery. The solution was to ignore the gorilla when it sat in the door, but to reinforce it with food whenever it did happen to go out by itself. Problem solved.\n\nSometimes, I think, we reinforce children too soon under the\n\nmisimpression that we are encouraging them (\"Atta girl, that's the way, you almost got it right\"). What we may be doing is reinforcing trying. There is a difference between trying to do something and doing it. Wails of \"I can't\" may sometimes be a fact, but they may also be symptoms of being reinforced too often merely for trying. In general, giving gifts, promises, compliments, or whatever for behavior that hasn't occurred yet does not\n\nreinforce that behavior in the slightest. What it does reinforce is whatever was occurring at the time: soliciting reinforcement, most likely.\n\nTiming is equally important when training with negative reinforcers. The", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 19, "chunk_index": 20, "id": "0d58225e-fb1a-4580-9a8a-97c25846c585", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "horse learns to turn left when the left rein is pulled, but only if the pulling stops when it does turn. The cessation is the reinforcer. You get on a horse, kick it in the sides, and it moves forward; you should then stop kicking (unless you want it to move faster). Beginning riders often thump away constantly, as if the kicking were some kind of gasoline necessary to keep the horse moving. The kicking does not stop, so it contains no information for the horse. Thus are developed the iron-sided horses in riding academies that move at a snail's pace no matter how often they are kicked.\n\nThe same applies to people getting nagged and scolded by parents, bosses, or teachers. If the negative reinforcer doesn't cease the instant the desired result is achieved, it is neither reinforcing nor information. It becomes, both literally and in terms of information theory, \"noise.\"\n\nWatching football and baseball on TV, I am often struck by the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 20, "chunk_index": 21, "id": "4600d59d-c1bf-4420-943e-a3094888bf21", "word_count": 164, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 213 } }, { "page_content": "beautifully timed reinforcers that the players receive again and again. As a touchdown is made, as the runner crosses home plate, the roar of the crowd signals unalloyed approval; and the instant a score is made or a game is won, just watch the frenzied exchange of mutual reinforcers among the players. It is quite different for actors, especially movie actors. Even on stage the applause comes after the job is done. For movie actors, except for occasional response from a director or camera operator or grip, there is no timely reinforcement; fan letters and good reviews, arriving weeks or months later, are pallid compared with all of Yankee Stadium going berserk at the moment of success. No wonder some stars often exhibit a seemingly neurotic craving for adulation and thrills; the work can be peculiarly unsatisfying because the reinforcers, however splendid, are always \"late.\"\n\nBeginning trainers who use food reinforcement with animals are often confused as to how big each reinforcer should be. The answer is: as small as you can get away with. The smaller the reinforcer, the more quickly the animal eats it. Not only does this cut down on waiting time, it also allows", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 20, "chunk_index": 22, "id": "d4afdf5c-a254-4feb-9fe5-9cef919747a7", "word_count": 198, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 257 } }, { "page_content": "for more reinforcers per session, before the animal becomes satiated. In 1979 I was hired as a consultant by the National Zoological Park in Washington, D.C., to teach positive reinforcement techniques to a group of zoo employees. One of the keepers in my training class complained that her training of the panda had been proceeding too slowly. I thought this odd because intuitively I felt that pandas - big, greedy, active animals - should be easy to train with a reinforcer of food. I watched a session and found that while the keeper was gradually succeeding in shaping a body movement, she was giving the panda a whole carrot for each reinforcement. The panda took its own sweet time eating each carrot, so that in fifteen minutes of valuable keeper time it had earned only three reinforcers (and was incidentally getting tired of carrots). A single slice of carrot per reinforcement would have been better.\n\nIn general, a reinforcer that constitutes one small mouthful for that animal is enough to keep it interested - a grain or two of corn for a chicken, a quarter-inch cube of meat for a cat, half an apple for an elephant. With an especially preferred food you can go even smaller - a teaspoon of grain for a horse, for example. Keepers at the National Zoo have trained their polar bears to do many useful things, such as moving to another cage on command, with raisins.\n\nA trainer's rule of thumb is that if you are going to have only one", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 21, "chunk_index": 23, "id": "afa29052-d539-42c6-b51d-17db1f0ef261", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "training session a day, you can count on the animal working well for about a quarter of its rations; you then give it the rest for free. If you can get in three or four sessions a day, you can divide the normal amount of food into about eighty reinforcers and give twenty or thirty in each session. Eighty reinforcers seems to be about the maximum for any subject's interest during any one day. (Perhaps that's why slide trays usually hold eighty slides; I know I always groan if a lecturer asks the projectionist for the second tray of slides.)\n\nThe difficulty of the task also has some effect on the size of the reinforcer. At Sea Life Park we found it necessary to give each of our whales a large mackerel for their Olympic-effort, twenty-two-foot straight- up jump. They simply refused to do it for the usual reinforcer of two small smelt. For people, sometimes if not always, harder jobs get bigger rewards. And how we hate it when they don't, if we are the ones doing the hard job.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 21, "chunk_index": 24, "id": "35087154-69c0-4dbd-b827-27e554a98acb", "word_count": 181, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 235 } }, { "page_content": "One extremely useful technique with food or any other reinforcement, for animals or people, is the jackpot. The jackpot is a reward that is much bigger, maybe ten times bigger, than the normal reinforcer, and one that comes as a surprise to the subject. At an ad agency where I once worked we had the usual office party at Christmas, as well as informal celebrations to signalize the completion of a big job or the signing of a new client. But the president was also in the habit of throwing one or two totally unexpected parties a year. Suddenly in midafternoon he would stride through all the offices, yelling for everyone to stop working. The switchboard was closed down, and in came a procession of caterers, musicians, bartenders, champagne, smoked salmon, the works: just for us and for no special reason. It was an unexpected jackpot for fifty people. It contributed vastly, I thought, to the company's high morale.\n\nA jackpot may be used to mark a sudden breakthrough. In the case of one horse trainer I know, when a young horse executes a difficult maneuver for the first time, the man leaps from its back, snatches off saddle and bridle, and turns the horse loose in the ring - a jackpot of complete freedom, which often seems to make the new behavior stick.\n\nParadoxically, a single jackpot may also be effective in improving the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 25, "id": "2b113b03-a259-4f74-9a36-80e7471c64db", "word_count": 235, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 305 } }, { "page_content": "response of a recalcitrant, fearful, or resistant subject that is offering no desirable behavior at all. At Sea Life Park we were doing some U.S. Navy- funded research that involved reinforcing a dolphin for new responses, instead of old, previously trained behaviors. Our subject was a docile animal named Hou that rarely offered new responses. When she failed to get reinforced for what she did offer, she became inactive, and finally in one session she went twenty minutes offering no responses at all. The trainer finally tossed her two fish \"for nothing.\" Visibly startled by this largesse, Hou became active again and soon made a movement that could be reinforced, leading to real progress in the next few sessions.\n\nI had the same experience as that dolphin myself once. When I was fifteen, my greatest pleasure in life was riding lessons. The stables where I rode sold tickets, ten lessons on a ticket. From my allowance I could afford one ticket a month. I was living with my father, Philip Wylie, and my\n\nstepmother, Ricky, at the time; and although they were very good to me, I had entered one of those adolescent periods in which one practices being as truculent and disagreeable as possible for days on end. One evening the Wylies, being loving and ingenious parents, told me that they were pretty tired of my behavior, and that what they had decided to do was reward me.\n\nThey then presented me with a brand-new, extra, free riding ticket. One\n\nof them had taken the trouble of going to the stables to buy it. Wow! An undeserved jackpot. As I recall, I shaped up on the spot, and Ricky Wylie confirmed that memory as I was writing this book many years later.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 22, "chunk_index": 26, "id": "db1f5a9a-ee0d-44ff-b0ac-41100a918264", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "Why the unearned jackpot should have had such abrupt and long-\n\nreaching effects, I do not fully understand: Perhaps someone will do a Ph.D. dissertation on the matter someday and explain it to us. I do know that the extra riding ticket instantly relieved in me some strong feelings of oppression and resentment, and I suspect that's exactly how that dolphin felt, too.\n\nIt often happens, especially when training with food reinforcers, that there is absolutely no way you can get the reinforcer to the subject during the instant it is performing the behavior you wish to encourage. If I am training a dolphin to jump, I cannot possibly get a fish to it while it is in midair. If each jump is followed by a thrown fish with an unavoidable delay, eventually the animal will make the connection between jumping and eating and will jump more often. However, it has no way of knowing which aspect of the jump I liked. Was it the height? The arch? Perhaps the splashing reentry? Thus it would take many repetitions to identify to the animal the exact sort of jump I had in mind. To get around this problem, we use conditioned reinforcers.\n\nA conditioned reinforcer is some initially meaningless signal - a sound, a\n\nlight, a motion - that is deliberately presented before or during the delivery of a reinforcer. Dolphin trainers have come to rely on the police whistle as a conditioned reinforcer; it is easily heard, even underwater, and it leaves one's hands free for signaling and fish throwing. With other animals I frequently use a cricket, the dime-store party toy that goes click-click when", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 23, "chunk_index": 27, "id": "df4337e4-aa47-4cb2-9e14-e6a86381fe25", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "you press it, or a particular praise word, selected and reserved for the purpose of acting as a conditioned reinforcer: \"Good dog,\" \"Good pony.\" Schoolteachers often arrive at some such ritualized and carefully rationed word of commendation - \"That's fine\" or \"Very good\" - for which the children anxiously work and wait.\n\nConditioned reinforcers abound in our lives. We like to hear the phone ring or see a full mailbox, even if half our calls are no fun or most of our mail is junk mail, because we have had numerous occasions to learn to relate the ringing or the envelopes to good things. We like Christmas music and hate the smell of dentists' offices. We keep things around us - pictures, dishes, trophies - not because they are beautiful or useful but because they remind us of times when we were happy or of people we love. They are conditioned reinforcers.\n\nPractical animal training that uses positive reinforcement should almost always begin with the establishment of a conditioned reinforcer. Before the start of any real training of behavior, while the subject is doing nothing in particular, you teach it to understand the significance of the conditioned reinforcer by pairing it with food, petting, or other real reinforcers. You can tell, incidentally, at least with animals, when the subject has come to recognize your signal for \"Good!\" It visibly startles on perceiving the conditioned reinforcer and begins seeking the real reinforcer. With the establishment of a conditioned reinforcer, you have a real way of communicating exactly what you like in the animal's behavior. So you do not need to be Dr. Dolittle to talk to the animals; you can \"say\" an amazing amount with such trained reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 28, "id": "deff3a45-7715-4422-8e21-82d5b4c6ecc4", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "Conditioned reinforcers become immensely powerful. I have seen marine mammals work long past the point of satiety for conditioned reinforcers, and horses and dogs work for an hour or more with few primary reinforcers. People, of course, work endlessly for money, which is after all only a conditioned reinforcer, a token for the things it can buy - even, or perhaps especially, people who have already earned more money than they can actually spend, who have accordingly become addicted to the conditioned reinforcer.\n\nOne can make a conditioned reinforcer more powerful by pairing it with several primary reinforcers. The subject at that moment may not want food,\n\nsay, but if the same reinforcing sound or word has also been associated deliberately with water, or some other needs or pleasures, it retains its usefulness and then some. My cats hear \"Good girl!\" when their supper dish is put down, when they are petted, when they are let in and out, and when they do little tricks and get treats for them. Consequently, I can use \"Good girl!\" to reinforce getting off the kitchen table, without having to follow up with an actual reinforcer. Probably the reason money is so reinforcing for us is that it can be paired with practically everything. It is an extremely generalized conditioned reinforcer.\n\nOnce you have established a conditioned reinforcer, you must be careful", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 24, "chunk_index": 29, "id": "338defff-f327-4fa8-8c32-5e17b8544113", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "not to throw it around meaninglessly or you will dilute its force. The children who rode my Welsh ponies for me quickly learned to use \"Good pony!\" only when they wanted to reinforce behavior. If they just wanted to express affection, they could chat to the pony any way they liked, except in those words. One day a child who had just joined the group was seen petting a pony's face while saying \"You're a good pony.\" Three of the others rounded on her instantly: \"What are you telling him that for? He hasn't done anything!\" Similarly one can and should lavish children (and spouses, parents, lovers, and friends) with love and attention, unrelated to any particular behavior; but one should reserve praise, specifically, as a conditioned reinforcer related to something real. There are plenty of such real events deserving praise, a reinforcer that is abundantly exchanged in happy families. False or meaningless praise, however, is soon resented, even by tiny children, and loses any power to reinforce.\n\nMarine mammal trainers use conditioned reinforcers, usually the sound of a whistle, to train whales, dolphins, seals, and polar bears. The concept was first brought to marine mammal parks and to U.S. Navy dolphin trainers in the 1960s by Keller Breland, a graduate student of B. F. Skinner. Breland called the whistle a \"bridging stimulus,\" because, in addition to informing the dolphin that it had just earned a fish, the whistle bridged the period of time between the leap in midtank - the behavior that was being reinforced - and swimming over to the side to collect one's pay.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 25, "chunk_index": 30, "id": "5319ba83-5b04-4c98-956c-7b7a2f13bb63", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "The behavior analytic literature acknowledged these two aspects of the conditioned reinforcer. But there were more values to be uncovered. In the 1990s more and more animal trainers started using operant conditioning, shaping, positive reinforcement, and conditioned reinforcers, and so did the general public, with dog owners leading the way (see Chapter 6). Because the dog owners used a plastic boxed metal clicker as a conditioned reinforcer, they began calling what they were doing clicker training and themselves, clicker trainers.\n\nThe click, as it is used by clicker trainers, has several unresearched functions besides being a conditioned reinforcer and being a bridging stimulus between earning the food and getting the food. First and foremost it constitutes what Ogden Lindsley Ph.D., has called an event marker. It identifies for the trainee exactly what behavior is being reinforced. But it does more than that. It puts control in the hands, paws, fins, whatever, of the learner. After a while the subject no longer just repeats the behavior; the subject exhibits intention. \"Hey! I made you click! Watch me, I'm going to do it again!\" Clicker trainers speak of that shift as the moment when \"the light bulb goes on.\" This moment is extremely reinforcing for trainer and trainee alike.\n\nEllen Reese, Ph.D., pointed out to me that the conditioned reinforcer, as", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 26, "chunk_index": 31, "id": "f7afee34-ffc8-41d9-8f47-0178f37759c2", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "it is used by clicker trainers, is also a termination signal. It means \"Job's done.\" As Gary Wilkes says, \"The click ends the behavior.\" That's reinforcing in itself. It is, however, sometimes a shock to traditional trainers: It doesn't seem natural, somehow, that the way to train a dog to hold on to a dumbbell forever is to click it for holding the dumbbell, whereupon it is permitted to drop the dumbbell instantly and eat slices of hot dog.\n\nThe philosopher Gregory Bateson, who worked at Sea Life Park for some years, maintained that operant conditioning was just a system for communicating with an alien species. Indeed, it can be. Another major value of the marker signal is that it can be used to communicate specific information. Police officer Steve White told me of sending his German shepherd patrol dog to search for a thrown object that had landed on top of a six-foot-tall clump of bushes. The dog searched the ground fruitlessly for a long time. Then, when it happened to raise its head, Steve clicked. The\n\ndog instantly sniffed the air at head height, alerted to a whiff of the target, and began searching around the area while scenting further upward, even standing on its hind legs to do so. Thus with no further help from Steve, the dog located the object, crashed on top of the bushes, and got it.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 26, "chunk_index": 32, "id": "339698d3-2fb8-4330-94ae-72f580e97ed8", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "Another aspect of Steve's communication with his dog was that Steve used the click as a reinforcer that was not a termination signal; instead it was a \"keep going\" signal. The click reinforced the upward sniffing and kept the search behavior going, since the lost object had not yet been found. In this book's first edition I wrote of being able to use the conditioned reinforcer several times with no actual reinforcer until the end. I said this because we sometimes did it with dolphins at Sea Life Park, during long- duration behaviors or behavior chains. What I failed to realize at the time was that we in fact used two (at least two) conditioned reinforcers or marker signals: one, the whistle, meaning all of the above - \"That's right, food's coming, go get the food over there, job's done\" - and a second, a muted whistle meaning \"That's right, but the job's not over yet.\"\n\nMany of the novice clicker trainers I worked with in the 1990s were what author Morgan Spector calls \"crossover\" trainers (that is, well skilled in correction-based training, and trying to change over to shaping and positive reinforcement). I found that they were all too willing to give clicks but no treats, to the point where the significance of the click was extinguished. It was necessary to stress \"One click, one treat\" as a general rule, in order to teach people to shape behavior efficiently.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 27, "chunk_index": 33, "id": "72caf147-c1ef-4df8-b7de-b972603887b7", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "However, there are many situations in real life where some interim reinforcing stimulus can be very useful, as with Steve White's patrol dog. One answer is to use a different reinforcing stimulus to tell the trainee, \"That's right, and keep going.\" Interestingly, a \"keep going\" signal does not have to be linked directly with a primary reinforcer. Just start inserting it somewhere before the terminating click, and the learner will soon recognize it as a signal leading toward an eventual reinforcer.\n\nThen you can get fancy and use it as an informative marker signal within\n\na chain, without actually stopping the chain. For example, in dog agility\n\ncompetition, dogs are sent one by one over an obstacle course, against the clock. The owner has to tell the dog which obstacle to take next, all at a dead run. I've seen a dog clear one obstacle and then be visibly confused, as if he didn't hear the cue clearly. Is it the tunnel, or the jump? The head swiveled back and forth, and the owner yelled \"Yes!\" as the dog looked toward the jump. The dog veered instantly and took the correct obstacle.\n\nAs with a terminating click, it doesn't matter what kind of stimulus was used: a clicker, a whistle, a shout, or a wave. What counts is the fact that the stimulus was not just hopeful encouragement or cheerleading, which may distract the animal or accidentally reinforce the wrong behavior, but a well- established and precisely used conditioned reinforcer.\n\nA timely conditioned positive reinforcer tells the recipient, \"What you are doing now is good and will gain you something, so do it some more.\" You can also establish a conditioned aversive, or punisher, which communicates, \"What you are doing now is not good, and something bad will happen unless you stop.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 27, "chunk_index": 34, "id": "5bfd4022-da87-4dc8-903c-abb1378f8b6c", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Conditioned aversive stimuli are more effective than threats. Some subjects - cats come to mind - are unresponsive to shouts and scolding. However, a friend of mine quite accidentally cured her cat of clawing the couch by establishing \"No!\" as a conditioned aversive stimulus. One day in the kitchen she happened to drop a large brass tray, which fell right next to the cat. She cried \"No!\" as the tray fell, just before it landed with a loud clatter. The cat, dreadfully startled, jumped into the air with all its fur on end.\n\nThe next time the cat clawed the couch, the owner exclaimed \"No!\" and the cat, looking horrified, desisted immediately. Two more repetitions were enough to end the behavior permanently.\n\nReprimands are a necessary part of existence. Using positive\n\nreinforcement as your main teaching tool does not mean you cannot use \"No!\" when you need to, for example when the baby pokes at the wall outlet. However, some trainers use this real-life circumstance to justify their own general and abundant use of \"correction\" in instruction. In doing so\n\nthey make two mistakes. First, they view correction as if it were equivalent in value to positive reinforcement, without taking into account the other effects it has on the learner (see \"Punishment,\" Chapter 4); and second, they use those reprimands and punishers without establishing a warning signal, or conditioned aversive stimulus.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 28, "chunk_index": 35, "id": "bfbdf71d-4bd7-4bbb-8812-1b7ba4ed8ae4", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "The trick to making \"No!\" effective is to establish it as a conditioned negative reinforcer. For example, anyone who feels it necessary to use a choke chain on a dog should always say \"no\" as the dog does the wrong thing, and then pause before yanking on the chain, giving the dog a chance to avoid the aversive by changing its behavior. To just yank on the chain without a warning turns the yank into a simple punishment, with no predictable effect on future behavior and a potential cumulative effect on the dog's willingness to work at all. A third popular error, continuing to yank while the dog is back in position, simply punishes both behaviors.\n\nFailing to use a conditioned negative reinforcer increases the number of actual aversives that take place in correction-based training. It also slows up the learning. Conventional dog and horse trainers sometimes take far longer than reinforcement trainers - months and even years longer - to establish reliable behaviors, not just because they rely on punishment, which stops behavior rather than starting it, but also because they employ aversives without using a conditioned negative reinforcer, necessitating hundreds of repetitions before the animal sorts out what it is supposed to be doing.\n\nA special case of the conditioned aversive signal has recently become\n\npopular among dog trainers: the no-reward marker, often the word \"Wrong,\" spoken in a neutral tone. The idea is that when the dog is trying various behaviors to see what you might want, you can help him by telling him what won't work, by developing a signal that signifies \"That will not be reinforced.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 29, "chunk_index": 36, "id": "527ee8cf-1524-4b4d-a15d-6363ac8d8937", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "B. E Skinner's definition of punishment - taking away something desirable - means that the \"Wrong\" signal is, unavoidably, a conditioned punisher, since it means that reinforcers are not available. Does it also provide information and thereby become reinforcing? In the dog training community, I am seeing special cases where the \"Wrong\" signal is useful. If your dog has a sizable repertoire of fully shaped behaviors and cues - if, in short, it is a highly sophisticated trainee - you can establish the \"Wrong\"\n\nword as a cue for variable behavior, meaning \"Save your strength, that's a blind alley, try something else.\"\n\nThis only works if the learner has already been reinforced often for variable behavior and for actively searching for new ways to make you click. Where people run into trouble with this tricky stimulus is when they use it with an inexperienced dog that doesn't understand what is wanted. In this case people tend to use the signal as if it were a choke collar: Tell the dog to sit, it doesn't sit, bam - \"Wrong.\" If the signal has indeed been established as meaning no reinforcer is available, then \"not sitting\" is punished. But that doesn't mean that sitting is now going to happen. In fact, the results are apt to be the same as with any other punisher - highly unpredictable. The dog may quit responding altogether and slink away, or give up and start looking for its own reinforcers, resulting in unsuitable behavior such as barking, pulling on the leash, sniffing the ground, scratching, and in general taking its attention elsewhere.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 29, "chunk_index": 37, "id": "16a253e8-4c00-4eb1-929f-6c219c65de80", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "There is a popular misconception that if you start training a behavior by positive reinforcement, you will have to keep on using positive reinforcers for the rest of the subject's natural life; if not, the behavior will disappear. This is untrue; constant reinforcement is needed just in the learning stages. You might praise a toddler repeatedly for using the toilet, but once the behavior has been learned, the matter takes care of itself. We give, or we should give, the beginner a lot of reinforcers - teaching a kid to ride a bicycle may involve a constant stream of \"That's right, steady now, you got it, good!\" However, you'd look pretty silly (and the child would think you were crazy) if you went on praising once the behavior had been acquired.\n\nIn order to maintain an already-learned behavior with some degree of reliability, it is not only not necessary to reinforce it every time; it is vital that you do not reinforce it on a regular basis but instead switch to using reinforcement only occasionally, and on a random or unpredictable basis.\n\nThis is what psychologists call a variable schedule of reinforcement. A\n\nvariable schedule is far more effective in maintaining behavior than a constant, predictable schedule of reinforcement. One psychologist", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 30, "chunk_index": 38, "id": "fab5365b-c196-4c07-bf17-4c6626fa47da", "word_count": 211, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 274 } }, { "page_content": "explained it to me this way: If you have a new car, one that has always started easily, and you get in one day and turn the key and it doesn't start, you may try a few more times, but soon you are going to decide something is wrong and go call the garage. Your key-turning behavior, in the absence of the expected immediate reinforcement, quickly extinguishes, or dies out. If, on the other hand, you have an old clunker that almost never starts on the first try and often takes forever to get going, you may try and try to start it for half an hour; your key-turning behavior is on a long, variable schedule and is thereby strongly maintained.\n\nIf I were to give a dolphin a fish every time it jumped, very quickly the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 31, "chunk_index": 39, "id": "43b88707-3f83-434c-9df8-e38b0de658d2", "word_count": 137, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 178 } }, { "page_content": "jump would become as minimal and perfunctory as the animal could get away with. If I then stopped giving fish, the dolphin would quickly stop jumping. However, once the animal had learned to jump for fish, if I were to reinforce now the first jump, then the third, and so on at random, the behavior would be much more strongly maintained; the unrewarded animal would actually jump more and more often, hoping to hit the lucky number, as it were, and the jumps might even increase in vigor. This in turn would allow me to selectively reinforce the more vigorous jumps, thus using my variable schedule to shape improved performance. But even some professional animal trainers fail to make good use of variable schedules of positive reinforcement; it seems to be a peculiarly difficult concept for many people to accept intellectually. We recognize that we don't need to go on punishing misbehavior if the misbehavior stops, but we don't see that it's not necessary or even desirable to reward correct behavior continuously. We are less sure of ourselves when aiming for disciplined response through positive reinforcement.\n\nThe power of the variable schedule is at the root of all gambling. If every time you put a nickel into a slot machine a dime were to come out, you would soon lose interest. Yes, you would be making money, but what a boring way to do it. People like to play slot machines precisely because there's no predicting whether nothing will come out, or a little money, or a lot of money, or which time the reinforcer will come (it might be the very first time). Why some people get addicted to gambling and others can take it or leave it is another matter, but for those who do get hooked, it's the variable schedule of reinforcement that does the hooking.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 31, "chunk_index": 40, "id": "cb01644b-1db9-4b61-96ab-7226ccabd063", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "The longer the variable schedule, the more powerfully it maintains behavior. Long schedules work against you, however, if you are trying to eliminate a behavior. Unreinforced, any behavior will tend to die down by itself; but if it is reinforced from time to time, however sporadically - one cigarette, one drink, one giving in to the nagger or whiner, the behavior, instead of being extinguished, may actually be strongly maintained by a long, variable schedule. That is how the ex-smoker who sneaks an occasional cigarette can go back to being a heavy smoker in a day.\n\nWe have all seen people who inexplicably stick with spouses or lovers who mistreat them. Customarily we think of this as happening to a woman - she falls for someone who is harsh, inconsiderate, selfish, even cruel, and yet she loves him - but it happens to men, too. Everyone knows such people, who, if divorced or otherwise bereft of the nasty one, go right out and find someone else just like him or her.\n\nAre these people, for deep psychological reasons, perpetual victims?", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 41, "id": "ac982b2f-1d40-4fe7-8906-2108ae43312a", "word_count": 180, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 234 } }, { "page_content": "Possibly. But may they not also be victims of long-duration variable schedules? If you get into a relationship with someone who is fascinating, charming, sexy, fun, and attentive, and then gradually the person becomes more disagreeable, even abusive, though still showing you the good side now and then, you will live for those increasingly rare moments when you are getting all those wonderful reinforcers: the fascinating, charming, sexy, and fun attentiveness. And paradoxically from a commonsense viewpoint, though obviously from the training viewpoint, the rarer and more unpredictable those moments become, the more powerful will be their effect as reinforcers, and the longer your basic behavior will be maintained. Furthermore, it is easy to see why someone once in this kind of relationship might seek it out again. A relationship with a normal person who is decent and friendly most of the time might seem to lack the kick of that rare, longed-for, and thus doubly intense reinforcer.\n\nLook at it from the manipulator's point of view: I can have her/him eating out of my hand, and doing whatever I want, for my comfort and convenience solely, as long as I give her/him what she/he wants ... once in a while. That's one way pimps keep their whores in line. It's a powerful fix, all right, but once the victim appreciates that the intensity of the \"charm\" is at least partly due to the nature of the reinforcement schedule, he or she can\n\nusually walk quietly away from this kind of relationship and look for something else.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 32, "chunk_index": 42, "id": "8fcd4765-ed0b-4a79-a564-4c008355f003", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "The one circumstance when one should not go to a variable schedule once the behavior has been learned is when the behavior involves solving some kind of puzzle or test. In advanced obedience training, dogs are asked to select from a group of miscellaneous objects the single object their owner had handled and scented. It is necessary to tell the dog each time that it has selected correctly, so it will know what to do next time. In discrimination tests - identifying the higher of two sounds, let us say - the subject must be reinforced for each correct response so that it continues to be informed as to what question it is being asked. (A conditioned reinforcer will do, of course.) When we play with crossword or jigsaw puzzles, we get reinforced for correct guesses because those are the only ones that \"fit.\" In doing a jigsaw puzzle, if you could put several pieces in each hole, you would not get the positive reinforcer for the right choice, which is necessary feedback in most choice-trial situations.\n\nIn addition to variable schedules, one can also establish fixed schedules", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 43, "id": "c587d7d1-2eae-449b-8bfc-931d286d7ef3", "word_count": 188, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 244 } }, { "page_content": "of reinforcement, in which the subject must work for a predetermined length of time or accomplish a predetermined number of behaviors for each reinforcement. For example, I could arrange for a dolphin to jump six times in a row by reinforcing every sixth jump; soon I would be getting a routine series of six. The trouble with fixed schedules is that the early responses in the series are never reinforced, so they tend to dwindle down to some minimal effort. With the jumping dolphin, in due course all the jumps but the last one, the one that is actually reinforced, would get smaller. This dwindling effect of fixed schedules is probably a factor in many human tasks - factory assembly lines, for example. It is necessary to work for a certain length of time in order to get reinforced, but since the reinforcement is on a fixed schedule, regardless of quality of performance, the subject quite naturally is motivated to do the least amount of work possible to still\n\nstay in the game and may perform especially poorly at the start of the work period. Payday on Friday is a fixed reinforcement leading directly to Blue Monday. With the dolphins, occasional random reinforcements for the first or second jump as well as the sixth will help maintain behavior. With people, various kinds of incentive bonuses or other reinforcers (awards, for example) tied directly to quality and quantity of production, and arriving out of synchrony with the usual reinforcement, can be effective.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 33, "chunk_index": 44, "id": "cd704b1e-e139-47ee-98f5-a148b4399eb5", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "Using either fixed or variable schedules, extremely long sequences of behavior can be trained. A baby chick can be induced to peck a button a hundred times or more for each grain of corn. For humans there are many examples of delayed gratification. One psychologist jokes that the longest schedule of unreinforced behavior in human existence is graduate school.\n\nIn extremely long schedules there is sometimes a point of no return. For the baby chick that point is metabolic; when the chick expends more energy pecking than it can get back from the grain of corn it receives, the behavior tends to die down - the benefits of the job have fallen so low that it simply isn't worth doing. This of course often happens with people as well.\n\nAnother phenomenon occurs on very long schedules: slow starts. The chick pecks away at a steady rate once it gets started, because each peck brings it nearer to reinforcement, but researchers have noted that a chick tends to \"put off\" starting for longer periods as the schedule of reinforcement gets longer.\n\nThis is sometimes called delayed start of long-duration behavior, and it's", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 45, "id": "2a90bf9e-1075-4f98-9557-70052cf29464", "word_count": 191, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 248 } }, { "page_content": "a very familiar aspect of human life. On any long task, from doing the income taxes to cleaning out the garage, one can think of endless reasons for not starting now. Writing, even sometimes just the writing of a letter, is a long-duration behavior. Once it gets started, things usually roll along fairly well, but, oh! it's so hard to make oneself sit down and begin. James Thurber found it so difficult to start an article that he sometimes fooled his wife (who was understandably anxious for him to write articles since that was how the rent got paid) by lying on a couch in his study all morning reading a book in one hand while tapping the typewriter keys at random with the other. The delayed-start phenomenon outweighed the prospect of eventual positive reinforcement of money; and the sham typing at least staved off the negative reinforcer of wifely reproaches.\n\nOne way to overcome the slow-start phenomenon is to introduce some", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 34, "chunk_index": 46, "id": "543bce91-1021-450e-831c-26a65c480e40", "word_count": 162, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 210 } }, { "page_content": "reinforcer just for getting started, just as I sporadically reinforced my dolphins for the first or second jump in a six-jump series. I have used this technique effectively in self-training. For some years I went to graduate school one or two nights a week, a long business involving three hours of class and an hour on the subway each way. It was always a huge temptation, as five o'clock rolled around, not to go. But then I found that if I broke down the journey, the first part of the task, into five steps - walking to the subway, catching the train, changing to the next train, getting the bus to the university, and finally, climbing the stairs to the classroom - and reinforced each of these initial behaviors by consuming a small square of chocolate, which I like but normally never eat, at the completion of each step, I was at least able to get myself out of the house, and in a few weeks was able to get all the way to class without either the chocolate or the internal struggle.\n\nReinforcement occurs all the time in real life, often by coincidence. A\n\nbiologist studying hawks noticed that if a hawk caught a mouse under a particular bush, it would check out that bush every day for a week or so thereafter; the probability that it would fly over that particular spot had been strongly reinforced. Find a twenty-dollar bill in a trash basket, and I defy you to walk past that trash basket the next day without looking it over closely.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 47, "id": "32f1ab36-7e57-4b34-b6a6-3dd053bcccc6", "word_count": 264, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 343 } }, { "page_content": "Accidental reinforcement was beneficial to the hawk; in fact, animal behavior in general might be said to have evolved so as to enable each species to benefit from whatever reinforcement occurs. However, accidental pairings also occur, and these can still have a strong effect on behavior. When the behavior is in fact unrelated to the consequence, but the subject still exhibits the behavior as if it were required for earning a reinforcer, scientists call it superstitious behavior. An example is pencil chewing. If, while taking an exam, you happen to put your pencil in your mouth and just then the right answer or a good idea occurs to you, the reinforcer may affect the behavior; good ideas occur during pencil chewing, so pencil chewing is reinforced. When I was in college, I didn't own a pencil that wasn't covered with teeth marks - on really tough exams I sometimes bit pencils right in\n\ntwo. I even felt sure that pencil chewing helped me to think; of course it didn't, it was just accidentally conditioned behavior.\n\nThe same goes for wearing a particular garment or going through a ritual\n\nwhen you are about to engage in a task. I have seen one baseball pitcher who goes through a nine-step chain of behavior every time he gets ready to pitch the ball: touch cap, touch ball to glove, push cap forward, wipe ear, push cap back, scuff foot, and so on. In a tight moment he may go through all nine steps twice, never varying the order. The sequence goes by quite fast - announcers never comment on it - and yet it is a very elaborate piece of superstitious behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 35, "chunk_index": 48, "id": "0277b0a3-4ddf-4acd-a4f9-315d3f84de3f", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Superstitious behavior often crops up in training animals. The animal may be responding to criteria you had no intention of establishing but that were accidentally reinforced often enough to become conditioned. For example, the animal may behave as if it has to be in a particular place or facing or sitting a certain way to earn reinforcement. When you want it to work in a new place or face another way, suddenly the behavior mysteriously breaks down, and figuring out why may take some doing. It is wise, therefore, once a behavior has been at least partially trained, to introduce variations in all the circumstances that do not matter to you, lest some accidental conditioning develops that might get in your way later.\n\nAbove all, watch out for the development of accidental patterns of\n\ntiming. Both animals and people have a very clear sense of time intervals. I was once quite convinced that I had trained two porpoises to jump on command (a hand signal from me) until a visiting scientist with a stopwatch informed me that they were jumping every twenty-nine seconds. Sure enough, with or without my command, they jumped every twenty-nine seconds. I had become accidentally conditioned to give the command with great regularity, and they had picked up on that instead of on the information I thought they were using.\n\nMany traditional animal trainers are absolutely riddled with superstitious\n\nthinking and behavior. I have had some tell me that dolphins prefer people to wear white, that you have to hit mules, that bears don't like women, and so on. And people trainers can be just as bad, believing you have to yell at fifth-graders, for example, or that punishment is needed to create respect. Such trainers are at the mercy of tradition; they have to train the same way", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 36, "chunk_index": 49, "id": "774d75be-4929-425f-b9ea-f3f0e0a5c08e", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "every time because they can't separate the methods that are working from methods that are merely superstitious. This failing or confusion crops up in many professions - education, engineering, the military, and perhaps particularly in the medical profession. It is appalling how many things are done to patients not because they are curative but simply because that's the way its always been done or that's what everyone does nowadays. Anyone who has ever been a patient in a hospital can think of half a dozen examples of unnecessary acts that amounted to nothing more than superstitious behavior.\n\nInterestingly enough, superstitious behavior does not always go away if\n\nyou merely point out its ineffectiveness; strongly conditioned, it may accordingly be strongly defended. Attack a doctor for his or her habitual use of a nonhelpful or even harmful treatment, and you will be attacked right back - in spades; as I'm sure that pitcher with the nine-step superstitious windup would resist fiercely anyone ordering him to play ball without, say, wearing the cap he touches four times in the sequence.\n\nOne way you can get rid of superstitious behavior in yourself, however, is to become aware that it has no relation to reinforcement. My son Ted is a banker whose hobby is competitive fencng. He fits in practice bouts two or three times a week and often travels to tournaments on weekends. One day, facing a stiff competitor, he felt downcast because he had left his favorite blade at home. He lost the match. Then he realized that feeling downcast was probably far more damaging to his performance than the blade he used, and, in fact, that having a \"favorite\" blade was superstitious behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 50, "id": "a0c1e8fd-a37b-407c-b75e-6aca87f5f110", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "Ted set out to eliminate every superstitious behavior he could identify related to fencing. He discovered many in his repertoire, from attachment to certain articles of clothing to inner convictions that his game might be affected by a bad night's sleep, an argument, or even by running out of fruit juice at a tournament. Systematically examining each of these circumstances, he eliminated his dependencies one by one as he recognized them as superstitious behavior. Consequently, he now enters each match relaxed and confident, even if the previous hours have been a nightmare of missed trains, lost gear, and battles with taxi drivers, and even if he is fencing with a borrowed blade in a practice uniform with mismatched socks.\n\nHere are some things people I know have done with positive\n\nJudy, a designer, took a weekly painting class at night at a nearby university to keep her hand in; most of the twenty other people in the class were also designers or commercial artists. The teacher assigned weekly homework, which many of the busy professionals did not bother to complete. The teacher habitually harangued the class for ten minutes or more over the poor showing of homework assignments. Tired of being scolded, Judy suggested he reinforce the ones who did bring in assignments instead of heckling those who didn't. He did so, reinforcing his pupils with public praise of each completed assignment. By the third week, the teacher not only had a happier class, he had raised the number of homeworkers from about a third of the class to nearly three-quarters.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 37, "chunk_index": 51, "id": "5dac77b1-50e3-4dcc-b0f6-8639064bf868", "word_count": 261, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 339 } }, { "page_content": "Shannon, a college student, visited the home of some friends and walked in on a scene. Four adults were trying, unsuccessfully and at some risk to themselves, to restrain the household German shepherd so the dog's infected ear could be medicated. Shannon, not a dog lover particularly but a student of positive reinforcement, got some cheese from the refrigerator and in five minutes trained the dog to hold still while she medicated his ear single-handed.\n\nA young woman married a man who turned out to be very bossy and demanding. Worse yet, his father, who lived with them, was equally given to ordering his daughter-in-law about. It was the girl's mother who told me this story. On her first visit she was horrified at what her daughter was going through. \"Don't worry, Mother,\" the daughter said, \"wait and see.\" The daughter formed a practice of responding minimally to commands and harsh remarks, while reinforcing with approval and affection any tendency by either man to be pleasant or thoughtful. In a year she had turned them into decent human beings. Now they greet her with smiles when she comes home and leap up - both of them - to help with the groceries.\n\nAn urban eighth-grader liked to take her dog for walks on weekends in the country, but the dog often ran off too far and refused to come back when called, especially when it was time to go home. One weekend the girl started making a huge fuss over the dog - praise, patting, baby talk, hugs, the works - whenever, in running about, it came up to her unbidden. When it was time to go home, she called and the dog came gladly. The huge welcome apparently outweighed, as a reinforcer, the dog's usual prolongation of freedom. It never gave trouble on country walks again.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 38, "chunk_index": 52, "id": "f591842a-3292-4fbf-a648-1f9218a14a0d", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "A junior executive with a monster of a boss decided which parts of his job might be reinforcing to the boss - bringing papers to be signed, for example - and timed as many as possible to coincide with periods when the boss was not in a rage. The boss eased up and in due course actually started telling jokes.\n\nSome people develop very special reinforcers that others will go out of their way to earn. Annette, a suburban housewife whose children are grown, might be rather isolated were it not for her network of friends who phone weekly or even more often to share their news. These are not necessarily neighbors or relatives; many are busy professional women who live far away. I am one. Why do we all call Annette? If you have bad news - you've got the flu, or the IRS is going to audit you, or the baby-sitter moved to Cleveland - Annette gives sympathy and advice; but so would any friend. It is in the area of good news that Annette offers unusual reinforcers. Tell her the bank approved your loan, and she does more than say \"That's great!\" She points out exactly what you did to earn and deserve the good news. \"You see?\" Annette might respond. \"Remember how hard you worked to get a good credit rating? Remember all the trouble you went to with the phone company, and getting an air-travel card? Now it pays off for you; you're recognized as a good businesswoman. But you had to make the right moves first, and you did. I'm really proud of you.\" Wow! That's more than approval, that is reinforcement - and for past efforts that at the time may have seemed to be merely tribulations. Annette takes good news out of the \"good luck\" category and turns it into an opportunity for reinforcement. That certainly reinforces one's inclination to call Annette.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 39, "chunk_index": 53, "id": "71689834-2ba1-4e54-8b85-7d5146c7b28a", "word_count": 320, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 416 } }, { "page_content": "Sales meetings, booster clubs, Dale Carnegie courses, Weight Watchers -\n\nin fact, most organizations that teach self-improvement in groups - rely heavily on the effects of reinforcement by the group upon individuals. Applause, medals, awards ceremonies, and other forms of group recognition are powerful reinforcers, sometimes quite imaginatively used. One IBM sales manager, wishing to reinforce his sales team for a good year, hired a football stadium; threw a big party for the employees, senior executives, and all their families; and had his sales force run through the players' tunnel onto the field while their names were flashed on the score- board, to the cheers of all assembled.\n\nI went through Werner Erhard's \"est\" course, a program with overtones\n\nof hucksterism but that, from a training standpoint, I found to be an ingenious and often brilliant application of shaping and reinforcement. The program was called, rightly I think, the Training. The leader was called the Trainer. The shaping goal was improved self-awareness, and the principal reinforcer was not the Trainer's responses but the nonverbal behavior of the whole group.\n\nTo develop group behavior as a reinforcer, the 250 people in the group were told to applaud after every speaker, whether they felt like applauding or not. Thus from the beginning the shy were encouraged, the bold rewarded, and all contributions, whether insightful or inane, were acknowledged by the group.\n\nAt first the applause was dutiful and no more. Soon it became genuinely", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 40, "chunk_index": 54, "id": "e3815ef9-015c-4900-b5e0-659e8bf41579", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "communicative - not of degrees of enjoyment, as in the theater, but of shades of feeling and meaning. For example, there was in my training class, as I expect there is in every est group, an argumentative man who frequently took issue with what the Trainer said. When this happened for the third or fourth time, the Trainer started arguing back. Now, it was apparent to all that from a logical standpoint, the argumentative man was perfectly correct. But as the argument wore on and on, no one else in the room cared who was right. All 249 of us just wished he'd shut up and sit down.\n\nThe rules of the game - shaping rules, really - did not permit us to protest or to tell him to shut up. But gradually the massive silence of the group percolated into his awareness. We watched him realize that no one cared if he was right. Maybe being right was not the only game in town. Slowly he sputtered into silence and sat down. The group instantly erupted in a huge burst of applause, expressive of sympathy and understanding as well as of hearty relief - a very powerful positive reinforcer of the illumination the arguer had just received.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 40, "chunk_index": 55, "id": "68ea58ca-2f9b-4439-93d0-b156ca7e5bf6", "word_count": 208, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 270 } }, { "page_content": "This kind of training occurrence, in which the important events are behavioral and thus nonverbal, is often maddeningly difficult to explain to an outsider. Erhard, like a Zen teacher, often resorts to aphorisms; in the case of the arguer described above, the est saying is \"When you're right, that's what you get to be: right.\" That is, not necessarily loved, or anything else nice: just right. If I I were to quote that aphorism at a party when somebody is being bombastic, another est graduate might laugh - and indeed, any good modern trainer might laugh - but most hearers might assume I was moronic or drunk. Good training insights do not necessarily lend themselves to verbal explanation.\n\nOne possible application of reinforcement training is reinforcing\n\nyourself. This is something we often neglect to do, partly because it doesn't occur to us, and partly because we tend to demand a lot more of ourselves than we would of others. As a minister I know puts it, \"Few of us have such low standards that it's easy to live up to them.\" As a result we often go for days at a time without letup, going from task to task to task unnoticed and unthanked even by ourselves. Quite aside from reinforcing oneself for some habit change or new skill, a certain amount of reinforcement is desirable just for surviving daily life; deprivation of reinforcement is one factor, I think, in states of anxiety and depression.\n\nYou can reinforce yourself in healthful ways - with an hour off, a walk, a\n\ntalk with friends, or a good book; or in unhealthful ways - with cigarettes, whiskey, fattening food, drugs, late nights, and so on. I like performer Ruth Gordon's suggestion: \"An actor has to have compliments. If I go long", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 41, "chunk_index": 56, "id": "1575dbe6-f3ee-4416-8d3d-fdb4890de19b", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "enough without getting a compliment, I compliment myself, and that's just as good because at least then I know it's sincere.\"\n\n2 - Shaping: Developing Super Performance Without Strain or Pain\n\nReinforcing behavior that is already occurring so that it occurs more often is all very well, but how do trainers get their subjects to do things that would probably never occur by chance? How do you get a dog to turn back flips or a dolphin to jump through a hoop?\n\nDogs flipping, dolphins jumping through hoops, or people throwing\n\nbasketballs through hoops, for that matter, are developed by shaping. Shaping consists of taking a very small tendency in the right direction and shifting it, one small step at a time, toward an ultimate goal. The laboratory jargon for the process is \"successive approximation.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 57, "id": "663291d1-ec07-420c-8398-385e6a3af3ab", "word_count": 135, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 175 } }, { "page_content": "Shaping is possible because the behavior of living things is variable. Whatever a creature does, it will do it with more vigor at some times than at others, in different directions, and so on. No matter how elaborate or difficult the ultimate behavior you wish to shape, you can always, by establishing a series of intermediate goals, find some behavior presently occurring to use as a first step. For example, suppose I decided to train a chicken to \"dance.\" I might begin by watching the chicken moving around as chickens do and reinforcing it every time it happened to move to the left. Soon my first goal would be reached: the chicken would be moving to the left quite often - and, being variable, sometimes a little and sometimes a lot. Now I might selectively reinforce only the stronger movements to the left - turning a quarter circle, say. When these responses predominated, natural variability would again ensure that while some turns were less than a quarter circle, some would be more like half a circle. I could raise my criteria, set a new goal, and start selecting for half-circle turns or better. With the chicken shaped to make several full turns at high speed per\n\nreinforcement, I might consider that I'd reached my end goal, a dancing chicken.\n\nWe are all quite accustomed to shaping and being shaped. In an informal way much of childrearing is a shaping process. The training of any physical skill, from tennis to typing, consists largely of shaping. We are also shaping when we try to change our own behavior - to quit smoking, say or to be less shy, or to handle money better.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 42, "chunk_index": 58, "id": "20de0af4-c49f-4709-b3f3-1caa0a242258", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Our success or failure in shaping a behavior, in ourselves or in others, ultimately depends not upon our shaping expertise but upon our persistence. New York Times music critic Harold Schonberg wrote of a European conductor who was not really a good conductor but who made fabulous music by keeping his orchestra in rehearsal for each concert for a full year. Most of us can acquire at least some proficiency at almost anything, if we just put enough time into it.\n\nBut that's boring. Don't we always want to learn new skills - skiing, piano playing, whatever - as fast as possible? Of course we do, and that's where good shaping comes in. Further, don't we prefer to avoid or minimize repetition? Yes again. Of course, some physical skills require repetition, because muscles \"learn\" slowly and must be put through the motions repeatedly before the motions come easily. Even so, a well-planned shaping program can minimize the required drilling and can make every moment of practice count, thus speeding up progress tremendously. And finally, in sports, music, and other creative endeavors, you may want to develop not only reliable performance but as good a performance as you or the one you're training can possibly give. In that case, correct use of the laws governing shaping may be crucial.\n\nThere are two aspects to shaping: the methods - that is, the behaviors that are to be developed and the sequence of steps used to develop them - and the principles, or rules governing how, when, and why those behaviors are reinforced.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 59, "id": "39efc1ab-1e8d-4c5b-884b-2442d712b0cf", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "Most trainers, most books about training, and most teachers of training are concerned almost entirely with method. \"Place your hands on the golf\n\nclub as in the drawing\"; \"Line up your rifle sights before you aim at the target\"; \"Never lean into the mountain\"; \"Beat the eggs with a wire whisk in a clockwise direction.\" This is fine. Such methods usually have been developed over many years, by many people, through trial and error, so they do work. It's probably true that you'll sit on a horse more securely if you keep your heels down, or that your golf ball will go farther if you shape a good follow-through into your swing. If you are interested in learning a particular skill, I would strongly urge that you find out as much as possible about the established methods of accomplishing the behaviors' that that skill involves, through books, teachers, or coaches and through watching or studying others.\n\nOn the other side of shaping, however, are the principles, the rules that control such matters as when to press on and when to let up; how to escalate your criteria most efficiently; what to do when you run into trouble; above all, perhaps, when to quit. These questions are generally left to the intuition and experience of trainers or coaches, or to chance or luck. Yet it is the successful application of such principles that makes the difference between an adequate teacher and a great one, and between shaping that is happy, fast, and successful and shaping that is frustrating, slow, boring, and disagreeable. It's good shaping, not just good methods, that makes training effective.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 43, "chunk_index": 60, "id": "01ca8a65-72dd-454e-a607-b03439bfbebe", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "There are ten rules that govern shaping, as I see it. Some come straight\n\nfrom the psychology labs and have been demonstrated experimentally. Others have not even been the subject of formal study, so far as I know, but can be recognized as inherently valid by anyone who has done a lot of shaping: You always know (usually an instant too late) when you've broken one. I'll list the rules here, then discuss each one at some length:\n\n1. Raise criteria in increments small enough that the subject always has a realistic chance for reinforcement.\n\n2. Train one aspect of any particular behavior at a time; don't try to shape for two criteria simultaneously.\n\n3. During shaping, put the current level of response onto a variable schedule of reinforcement before adding or raising the criteria.\n\n4. When introducing a new criterion, or aspect of the behavioral skill, temporarily relax the old ones.\n\n5. Stay ahead of your subject: Plan your shaping program completely so that if the subject makes sudden progress, you are aware of what to reinforce next.\n\n6. Don't change trainers in midstream; you can have several trainers per trainee, but stick to one shaper per behavior.\n\n7. If one shaping procedure is not eliciting progress, find another; there are as many ways to get behavior as there are trainers to think them up.\n\n8. Don't interrupt a training session gratuitously; that constitutes a punishment.\n\n9. If behavior deteriorates, \"go back to kindergarten\"; quickly review the whole shaping process with a series of easily earned reinforcers.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 44, "chunk_index": 61, "id": "05f9f9ed-5fba-4c5b-8f49-4851d5ca29d9", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "10. End each session on a high note, if possible, but in any case quit while you're ahead.\n\n1. Raise criteria in increments small enough that the subject always has a realistic chance of reinforcement.\n\nIn practice this means that when you increase demands or raise a\n\ncriterion for reinforcement, you should do so within the range the subject is already achieving. If your horse clears two-foot jumps, sometimes with a foot to spare, you could start raising some jumps to two and a half feet. Raising them all to three feet would be asking for trouble: The animal is capable of this but is not offering it regularly yet. And raising the jumps to three and a half feet would be courting disaster.\n\nHow fast you raise the criteria is not a function of the subject's actual ability, now or in the future; never mind if the horse is a big leggy creature potentially capable of jumping eight feet, or if it habitually hops over four- foot pasture fences. How fast you can raise the criteria is a function of how\n\nwell you are communicating through your shaping procedure what your rules are for gaining reinforcement.\n\nEvery time you raise a criterion, you are changing the rules. The subject\n\nhas to be given the opportunity to discover that though the rules have changed, reinforcers can easily continue to be earned by an increase in exertion (and also, in some cases, that performing at the old level no longer works). This can be learned only by experiencing reinforcement at the new level.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 45, "chunk_index": 62, "id": "5c06a283-04d3-4b17-a834-2d0731d0ed10", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "If you raise the criteria so high that the subject has to exert itself far beyond anything it has previously done for you - regardless of what it does or doesn't do on its own time - you are taking a big risk. The behavior may break down. A jumper might learn bad habits, such as balking or knocking down jumps, habits that will be very time-consuming to eliminate. The fastest way to shape behavior - sometimes the only way - is to raise the criteria at whatever interval it takes to make it easy for the subject to improve steadily. Constant progress, even if only inch by inch, will get you to your ultimate goal much faster than trying to force rapid progress at the risk of losing good performance altogether.\n\nI once saw a father make a serious error in this regard. Because his teenage son was doing very badly in school, he confiscated the youth's beloved motorcycle until his grades improved. The boy did work harder, and his grades did improve, from Fs and Ds to Ds and Cs. Instead of reinforcing this progress, however, the father said that the grades had not improved enough and continued to withhold bike privileges. This escalation of the criteria was too big a jump; the boy stopped working altogether. He furthermore became very mistrustful.\n\n2. Train one aspect of any particular behavior at a time; don't try to shape for two criteria simultaneously.\n\nI don't mean that you can't be working on many different behaviors over the same period of time. Of course you can. In any sort of lesson we might work on form for a while and then on speed - in tennis, on the backhand, then the forehand, then on footwork, and so on. It relieves monotony. Good teachers vary the work all the time, leaving one task as soon as some progress has been made and going on to another.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 46, "chunk_index": 63, "id": "8c4cbbb9-91ab-4a9e-8723-dcf2fbb35c69", "word_count": 324, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 421 } }, { "page_content": "While you are working on a given behavior, however, you should work on one criterion at a time, and only that one. If I were training a dolphin to splash and I were to withhold reinforcer one time because the splash was not big enough and the next time because it was in the wrong direction, the animal would have no way of deciphering what I wanted from it. One reinforcement cannot convey two pieces of information: I should shape for size of splash until satisfied with that and then shape for direction of splash, whatever the size, until that, too, is learned; only when both criteria are established could I require both to be obeyed.\n\nRule 2 has a lot of practical applications. If the task can be broken down\n\ninto separate components, which are then shaped separately, the learning will go much faster.\n\nTake learning to putt. Putting a golf ball depends on sending it the right\n\ndistance - not short of the cup and not past it or over it - and sending it in the right direction, not to one side of the cup or the other. If I were going to teach myself to putt, I would practice these separately. Perhaps I would put a piece of tape on the grass, several feet long, and practice hitting the ball just across the tape first from two feet, then four, six, and ten feet, and so on. I might also make a circle of tape, and practice aiming at it from a fixed distance, gradually reducing the circle's size, until I could hit a very small target reliably. Only when I was satisfied with my skills for both distance and direction would I combine them, setting up a large target size and varying the distance, then reducing the target size and varying the distance again until I could hit a small target at many distances. I would then add more criteria, one at a time, such as putting uphill.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 47, "chunk_index": 64, "id": "8f687c53-1e31-4a04-99ae-6b2ec6e842a2", "word_count": 333, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 432 } }, { "page_content": "This might make me an excellent or even a superb putter, depending on my dedication and the upper limits of my hand-eye coordination. It would certainly, within my capacity, make me a reliable putter. What I am suggesting is that any golfer could improve more in a few weekends following such a single-task shaping program than in a whole summer of random putting practice, hoping willy-nilly to get both the correct distance and the right direction on every shot.\n\nOften when we seem to show no progress in a skill, no matter how much\n\nwe practice, it is because we are trying to improve two or more things at once. Practice is not shaping. Repetition, by itself, may ingrain mistakes\n\njust as easily as improvements. One needs to think: Does this behavior have more than one attribute? Is there some way to break it down and work on different criteria separately? When you address both of these questions, many problems solve themselves.\n\n3. During shaping, put the current level of response onto a variable schedule of reinforcement before adding or raising the criteria\n\nMany people initially object to the idea of using positive reinforcers in training because they imagine that they will forever have to hand out treats to get good behavior. But the opposite is true. Training with reinforcement actually frees you from the need for constant vigilance over the behavior, because of the power of variable schedules.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 47, "chunk_index": 65, "id": "0d6aaf69-2852-4d7f-9a64-72dee00f8ab6", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "A variable schedule of reinforcement simply means that sometimes you reinforce a behavior and sometimes you don't. Often when we are teaching the behavior, we use a fixed schedule of reinforcement; that is, we reinforce every adequate behavior. But when we are just maintaining a behavior, we reinforce very occasionally, using a sporadic or intermittent schedule. For example, once a pattern of chore sharing has been established, your roommate or spouse may stop at the dry cleaners on the way home without being reinforced each time; but you might express thanks for an extra trip made when you are ill or the weather is bad.\n\nWhen we train with aversives, however - and that's the way most of us\n\nbegan - we are usually taught that it is vital to correct every mistake or misbehavior. When errors are not corrected, the behavior breaks down. Many dogs are well behaved on the leash, when they might get jerked, but they are highly unreliable as soon as they are off leash and out of reach. When out with their friends, many teenagers do things that they wouldn't dream of doing in their parents' presence. This can happen because the subject is fully aware that punishment is unavailable - when the cat's away, the mice will play - but it can also happen as a side effect of training with aversives. Since the message in a punisher is \"Don't do that,\" the absence of the aversive sends the message, \"That is okay now.\"\n\nWith positive reinforcement, on the other hand, not only is it not\n\nnecessary to reinforce every correct response for a lifetime, but it is crucial to the learning process to skip an occasional reinforcer. Why?", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 48, "chunk_index": 66, "id": "2fccecd0-0d0b-4c32-9489-9a8a8fcba4c3", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "The heart of the shaping procedure consists of selectively reinforcing some responses rather than others, so that the response improves, little by little, until it reaches a new goal. All behavior is variable; when you skip an expected reinforcer, the next behavior is likely to be somewhat different. Thus the skipped reinforcer enables you to select stronger or better responses. That's sometimes called a \"differential\" or \"selective\" schedule of reinforcement; you are choosing to reinforce only some kinds of responses: those that meet, say, the requirement of being faster or longer, or facing left but not right.\n\nBut to an inexperienced learner who until now has been earning reinforcers pretty predictably, skipping reinforcers can be a shock. Your puppy sits, you click and treat for the sit, the puppy sits faster and more and more gleefully - \"Look! I'm sitting! Click me!\" And now suddenly, some sits don't work! If your puppy has not learned to withstand an occasional skipped reinforcer, it may well quit in despair or go back to a weaker or slower response. While this step is not mentioned in the learning textbooks, in practice it is useful, if you are working with a new and inexperienced learner, to deliberately teach your trainee to tolerate small variations in the reinforcement schedule, before you begin to select for bigger or better responses. Your subject has to be able to tolerate an occasional failure per se, without stopping the behavior altogether. Or, technically speaking, you need to establish an intermittent schedule of reinforcement before starting to hold out for improved performance through a differential schedule of reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 67, "id": "bad21989-d806-40ad-9c68-cf4549f35744", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "In dog training seminars in the 1990s I labeled this type of variable schedule - a brief use of intermittent reinforcement - \"twofers,\" Broadway slang for two theater tickets for the price of one. Let the dog do it twice - two bumps of the target with its nose, say - for one click or treat. Learning to tolerate an intermittent schedule makes the behavior - and other subsequent behaviors - more resistant to extinction.\n\nThere's another benefit to this brief use of an intermittent schedule\n\nduring the learning phase. When your subject is able to tolerate the occasional skipped reinforcer, and you let a previously adequate response go by without a reinforcer, the learner is likely not only to repeat the behavior but to repeat it with more vigor: \"Hey! I did it, didn't you see me?\n\nLook! I'm doing it again!\" This intensified behavior - called an extinction burst - enables you to move more rapidly toward your goal behavior. A skilled shaper may even omit reinforcers specifically in order to provoke a varied or more vigorous response. Dog behaviorist Gary Wilkes calls this \"surfing the extinction bursts.\"\n\nOnce the subject has learned that a skipped reinforcer does not mean the\n\nbehavior was wrong but simply that one might need to try again, the shaping flows from continuous reinforcement (as a new behavior surfaces) to differential reinforcement (as we select for better form, longer duration, faster speed, shorter latencies, and so on) and then back to continuous reinforcement (whenever the behavior is \"perfect\" or, in laboratory terms, \"meets criteria\"). Deliberate use of intermittent reinforcement is no longer necessary because the learner already tolerates variable schedules.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 49, "chunk_index": 68, "id": "ca8597d2-d21a-4b33-9d59-6a43249bd70d", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Ultimately, when the behavior is satisfactory in all respects, it usually becomes part of a repertoire. One requires this behavior as a part of other, more complex behaviors; good form, speed, distance, and so on are blended into a whole - the race, the job, the day's activities - and that whole becomes the behavior that is reinforced. With this behavior you are now back to an intermittent or maintenance schedule, just the sporadic clicks or \"Thanks!\" that serve to keep things running smoothly. The high rate of positive reinforcement, the flood of clicks and treats that you may have used in the beginning, can now be saved for learning some other new behavior.\n\n4. When introducing a new criterion or aspect of the behavioral skill, temporarily relax the old ones.\n\nSuppose you're learning to play squash, and you've been working successfully on aim - sending the ball where you want it to go. Now you'd like to work on speed, but when you hit hard, the ball goes every which way. Forget about aim for a while and just slam the ball. When you have achieved some control over the speed of the ball, your aim will come back very quickly.\n\nWhat is once learned is not forgotten, but under the pressure of assimilating new skill levels, old well-learned behavior sometimes falls apart temporarily. I once saw a conductor, during the first dress rehearsal of an opera, having a tantrum because the singers in the chorus were making", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 50, "chunk_index": 69, "id": "ac4ea8c7-90b2-4c50-a363-b00f6215cffa", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "one musical mistake after another; they seemed virtually to have forgotten all their hard-learned vocal accomplishment. But they were, for the first time, wearing heavy costumes, standing on ladders, being required to move about as they sang: Getting used to new requirements temporarily interfered with previously learned behavior. By the end of the rehearsal, the musical learning reappeared, without coaching. Dolphin trainers call this the \"new tank syndrome.\" When you move a dolphin to a new tank, you have to expect that it will \"forget\" all it knows until the new stimuli are assimilated. It is important to realize that berating yourself or others for mistakes in past-learned behavior under new circumstances is bad training. The mistakes will usually clear up by themselves shortly, but reprimands cause upset and sometimes tend to draw attention to the mistakes so they don't go away.\n\nPlan your shaping program so-that if your subject makes a sudden leap\n\nforward, you will know what to reinforce next. I once spent two days shaping a newly captured dolphin to jump over a bar a few inches above the water surface. When the behavior was well established, I raised the bar another few inches; the animal jumped immediately, and so easily that I shortly raised the bar again and by a bigger increment; in fifteen minutes this novice animal was jumping eight feet.\n\nA shaping \"breakthrough\" of this sort can happen at any time. We see the\n\nphenomenon in people, of course, and in many species of intelligent animals. I believe it's an example of insight:", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 70, "id": "eb028416-36c2-47ba-96c3-ad51d337409c", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "The subject suddenly realizes the point of what it's being asked to do (in this case, to jump much higher) and goes out and does it. Killer whales are famous for anticipating shaping. Their trainers all have the same joke: You don't have to train killer whales, you just write the behavior on a blackboard and hang it in the water, and the whales will follow the script.\n\nWhere trainers can run into trouble is if they are not ready for sudden\n\nimprovement. If you as trainer are going from A to B, and the subject suddenly does B perfectly in two reinforcements, you'd better have in mind steps C and D, or you will have nothing further to reinforce.\n\nBreakthroughs often seem to be extremely exciting for the subject; even\n\nanimals appear to enjoy a kind of \"Aha!\" experience and often rush about evincing elation. A breakthrough is thus a golden opportunity to make a lot of progress in a hurry. To be unprepared and to hold the subject at a low level of performance just because you don't know what to do next is at best a waste of time and at worst may discourage or disgust your subject so that it becomes less willing to work in the future.\n\nExcept under the very best of circumstances, our whole school system seems to be set up to prevent children from learning at their own rate - to penalize not only the slow learners, who don't get the time to learn, but the fast learners, who don't get additional reinforcement when quick thinking moves them ahead. If you understand in a flash what your math teacher is talking about, your reward may be to writhe in boredom for hours, even weeks, while everyone else learns by inches. No wonder street life looks like more fun for the quick ones as well as the slow.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 51, "chunk_index": 71, "id": "1671d03f-6d45-4779-8f40-0c96453adcb5", "word_count": 315, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 409 } }, { "page_content": "While in the midst of shaping a behavior, you risk major slowdowns if you turn the training over to someone else. No matter how scrupulous one may be in discussing criteria before turning over the job, everyone's standards, reaction times, and expectations of progress are slightly different, and the net effect for the subject is to lose reinforcers until those differences can be accommodated. In a way it's another example of \"new tank syndrome.\"\n\nOf course one trainee may have many different teachers - we have no\n\ntrouble when one trainer teaches us French, another arithmetic, another football. It is the individual behavior being learned that needs one teacher at a time. During the shaping, or half-learned, stages, consistency of the gradually escalating criteria is best maintained by keeping the shaping of a given behavior in one person's hands. So if, say, you have two children and one dog, and both kids want to teach the dog tricks, let them; but let them each work on separate tricks and spare the poor dog a lot of confusion.\n\nThose who want to learn will learn under the worst of circumstances. One of the by now well-known \"ape language\" experiments, in which apes are taught vocabularies in American Sign Language and other codes, took", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 52, "chunk_index": 72, "id": "51f9621b-d2ba-44a2-9565-4a501230dcdd", "word_count": 212, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 275 } }, { "page_content": "place at Columbia University and involved a baby chimpanzee named Nim Chimpsky. Because of budgetary and other problems, the poor creature had more than one hundred \"teachers\" of signing in a three-year period. The students and experimenters were disappointed that Nim showed no firm evidence of real \"language.\" That is, he apparently never made sentences. But he did learn to recognize and understand more than three hundred signs - nouns, verbs, and so on - which, under the circumstances, I think is amazing. And so some children go from school to school and through the hands of endless processions of substitute teachers and still learn. But there are better ways.\n\nThe one time that you should consider changing trainers in midshaping is, of course, when the training is going nowhere. If little or no learning is occurring, you have nothing to lose by switching.\n\n7. If one shaping procedure is not eliciting progress, try another.\n\nNo matter what the behavior, there are as many ways to shape it as there are trainers to think them up. In teaching children to swim, for example, one wants to get them to be fearless and comfortable about going underwater. As a first step in this shaping task, one teacher may get them blowing bubbles in the water; another may have them put their faces in quickly and out again; a third may get them bobbing up and down until they dare to bob underneath. Any good teacher, seeing that a child is bored by or afraid of one method, will switch to another; the same shaping methods don't work equally well on every individual.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 53, "chunk_index": 73, "id": "9785e224-b758-4cc0-8194-65bdb985ca0b", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Traditional trainers, such as circus trainers, often fail to grasp this point.\n\nTheir shaping procedures have been honed over generations and passed down through families - this is the way you train a bear to ride a bicycle, this is the way you train a lion to roar (tweak a few hairs out of its mane, if you want to know). These traditional \"recipes\" are considered the best ways, and sometimes they are, but they are also often considered the only ways, which is one reason why circus acts tend to look so much alike.\n\nThe radio and television star Arthur Godfrey, after doing a show at Sea Life Park, invited me to visit him and his wife at their farm in Virginia to watch the horse training. Godfrey was an excellent rider and trainer himself and owned a number of performing horses. We were watching a horse being\n\ntrained to bow, or kneel on one knee, by a traditional method involving two men and a lot of ropes and whips; the horse under this method is repeatedly forced onto one knee until it learns to go down voluntarily.\n\nI said it didn't have to be done that way and asserted that I could train a horse to bow without ever touching the animal. (One possibility: Put a red spot on the wall; use food and a marker signal to shape the horse to touch its knee to the spot; then lower the spot gradually to the floor so that to touch it correctly and earn a reinforcer the horse has to kneel.) Godfrey became so angry at this impertinent suggestion - the idea! If there were another way to train a bow, he would know about it - that we had to walk him around the outside of the barn two or three times to cool him off.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 53, "chunk_index": 74, "id": "f217f32c-69c2-41ff-b9c3-47d9909b6df6", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "It is amazing how tenaciously people will stick to a system that isn't working, or that works badly, convinced somehow that more of the same will get results. Murray Sidman, Ph.D., a pioneering researcher in behavior analysis, maintains that this is the main reason why it's important to understand the principles and not just learn recipes. Everyone has a \"method.\" The principles govern what truly works.\n\n8. Don't interrupt a training session gratuitously; that constitutes a punishment.\n\nThis doesn't apply to the casual (though meaningful and productive) shaping one might do around the house - praising school-work, welcoming homecomers, encouraging children; a reinforcer here and there, with no formality, will do fine. In a more formal situation, however - in giving a lesson, say, or in shaping behavior in an animal - the trainer should keep his or her attention on the training subject or the class until the training period is over. This is more than just good manners or good self-discipline; it is skilled training. When a subject essays to earn reinforcers, it enters into a contract, so to speak, with the trainer. If the trainer starts chatting to some bystander or leaves to answer the telephone or is merely daydreaming, the contract is broken; reinforcement is unavailable through no fault of the trainee. This does more harm than just putting the trainer at risk of missing a good opportunity to reinforce. It may punish some perfectly good behavior that was going on at the time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 75, "id": "cfe0660f-12a3-4484-a2c7-2517c277e028", "word_count": 248, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 322 } }, { "page_content": "Of course if you want to rebuke a subject, removing your attention is a good way to do it. Dolphin trainers call this a timeout and use it to correct\n\nmisbehavior. Picking up the fish bucket and walking away for one minute is one of the few ways one has of saying \"No!\" or \"Wrong!\" to a dolphin, and it is usually very effective; one wouldn't think dolphins could look chagrined or act contrite, but they can. Removal of attention is a powerful tool, so don't use it carelessly or unfairly.\n\n9. If a learned behavior deteriorates, review the shaping.\n\nSometimes a skill or behavior gets rusty or seems to be totally lost. We all know how it feels to try to speak a language or remember a poem or ride a bicycle if we haven't done it in years and years: It feels most unsettling. Sometimes outside circumstances will temporarily eradicate a well-learned behavior - when stage fright, for instance, makes it impossible to give the thoroughly memorized speech, or a bad fall severely affects your rock- climbing skills. Sometimes subsequent learning overlies or contradicts the original learning, so that mix-ups occur - you strive for the Spanish word and come up with the German.\n\nSometimes the side effects of punishment or other aversive events\n\ninterfere with unrelated behavior. Attorney and dog fancier Morgan Spector describes an obedience trial in which every single dog that competed shied away from one particular corner of the ring. What aversive lurked there? Only the dogs knew.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 54, "chunk_index": 76, "id": "95e5cb01-d144-4d94-8c3c-b6067f16bbc1", "word_count": 254, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 330 } }, { "page_content": "Sometimes an apparently well-trained behavior just breaks down, and you never will identify the reason. Your high-scoring competition obedience dog who has never done such a thing before in his life gets up in the middle of the three-minute Long Sit exercise and wanders out of the ring. Who knows why? Who cares why? What is needed is not justification but an effective fix.\n\nThe quickest way to correct this kind of deterioration is not to butt at it\n\nhead-on, insisting that the subject get the whole thing back before you're satisfied or before you reinforce, but to recall the original shaping procedure and go all the way through it very rapidly, reinforcing under the new circumstances (twenty years later, in public, in the rain, whatever) and just reinforcing once or twice at each level. At Sea Life Park we called this \"going back to kindergarten,\" and the technique often brought a poor behavior up to par in ten or fifteen minutes.\n\nOf course we are doing just this whenever we review for an exam or refresh our memories by glancing at a script before going onstage. It is useful to remember that if you can more or less match the original shaping process, reviewing works equally well for physical as for mental skills. And it works with animals as well as people.\n\nHow long should a shaping session run? That depends partly on the attention span of the subject. Cats often seem to get restless after perhaps a dozen reinforcers, so five minutes might be plenty. Dogs and horses can work longer. Human lessons of many sorts are traditionally an hour long, and football practice, graduate seminars, and various other endeavors often go on all day.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 55, "chunk_index": 77, "id": "1e1db32a-c3e3-49f7-842e-b1c8a8391880", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "When you stop is not nearly as important as what you stop on. You\n\nshould always quit while you're ahead. This is true for whole sessions, but it also applies to stages within a session, when you stop working on one behavior and go on to another. You should move on on a high note - that is, as soon as some progress has been achieved.\n\nThe last behavior that was accomplished is the one that will be remembered best; you want to be sure it was a good, reinforceable performance. What happens all too often is that we get three or four good responses - the dog retrieves beautifully, the diver does a one-and-a-half for the first time, the singer gets a difficult passage right - and we are so excited that we want to see it again or to do it again. So we repeat it, or try to, and pretty soon the subject is tired, the behavior gets worse, mistakes crop up, corrections and yelling take place, and we just blew a training session. Amateur riders are always doing this. I detest watching people practice jumping their horses; so often they go past the point when they should have stopped, when the animal was doing well and before the behavior began falling apart.\n\nAs a trainer you should force yourself, if necessary, to stop on a good response. It takes guts sometimes. But you may find that in the next session the retrieve, the somersault dive, the solo obbligato is not only as good as the last one of the previous session but noticeably better. At the start of the\n\nnext session, the performance may actually begin a step beyond where it left off, and then you have just that much more to reinforce.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 56, "chunk_index": 78, "id": "b3cc09f2-c6ea-49fd-9cf5-f25cb24caf32", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "Shaping behavior is, of course, the opposite of training by drill and repetition. It can produce not only steady progress but absolutely error-free training, and this can go extremely fast; I once halter-broke a pony yearling in fifteen minutes, from start to finish, and permanently, by moving back and forth between five shaping tasks (forward, stop, left, right, and back) while reinforcing progress in each one. Accomplishing such speedy training depends, paradoxically, on your willingness to give up time limits, specific goal setting, and speed of progress itself as a goal. You must instead count simply on your willingness to quit while you're ahead. A Zen phenomenon.\n\nSometimes you can't end each training session on a high note. Perhaps the students paid for an hour and they want an hour, though a good quitting time was reached earlier. Or perhaps the session really isn't going well enough to provide a high point, but fatigue is soon going to be a problem. In that case it is wise to end the session with some easy, guaranteed way to earn a reinforcer so that the session as a whole is remembered as being reinforcing. Dolphin trainers often end long, demanding sessions with a bit of easy ball playing; riding teachers sometimes use games such as Simon Says or tag. The most inadvisable technique is to introduce new tasks or material late in the session so that it concludes with a series of inadequate and unreinforced behaviors. My piano lessons, as a child, always ended this way; it was very discouraging and I still can't play the piano.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 79, "id": "9c3a53d7-72fc-4693-b242-e247bcddc5cf", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "Even if you know and understand the principles of shaping, you can't apply them unless you practice them. Shaping is not a verbal process, it is a nonverbal skill - a flow of interactive behavior through time, like dancing, or making love, or surfing. As such, it can't really be learned by reading or thinking or talking about it. You have to do it.\n\nOne easy and fascinating way to develop shaping skills is by playing the\n\nTraining Game. I use the Training Game in teaching the techniques of training. Many trainers play it for sport; it makes an interesting party game.\n\nYou need two people at least: the subject and the trainer. Six is ideal because then every person can experience being both subject and trainer at least once before the group gets tired; but larger groups - a classroom or lecture audience, for example - are feasible, because observing is almost as much fun as participating.\n\nYou send the subject out of the room. The rest of the people select a trainer and choose a behavior to be shaped: for example, to write one's name on the blackboard, jump up and down, or stand on a chair. The subject is invited back in and told to move about the room and be active; the trainer reinforces, by blowing on a whistle, movements in the general direction of the desired behavior. I like to make a rule at least for the first few reinforcements that the \"animal\" has to go back to the doorway after each reinforcer and start anew; it seems to help prevent a tendency of some subjects to just stand still wherever reinforcement was last received. And no talking. Laughter, groans, and other signs of emotion are permitted, but instructions and discussion are out until after the behavior is achieved.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 57, "chunk_index": 80, "id": "ae380dcc-668d-4a7d-b6bd-fe74dc6bf25d", "word_count": 304, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 395 } }, { "page_content": "Ordinarily the Training Game goes quite fast. Here's an example: Six of us are playing the game in a friend's living room. Ruth volunteers to be the animal, and it's Anne's turn to be the trainer. Ruth goes out of the room. We all decide that the behavior should be to turn on the lamp on the end table beside the couch.\n\nRuth is called back in and begins wandering around the room. When she heads in the direction of the lamp, Anne blows the whistle. Ruth goes back to \"Start\" (the doorway), then moves purposefully to the spot where she was reinforced and stops. No whistle. She waves her hands about. No whistle. She moves off the spot, tentatively, away from the lamp as it happens. Still hearing no whistle, Ruth begins walking around again. When once again she walks toward the lamp, Anne blows the whistle.\n\nRuth returns to the door and then returns to the new spot where she just heard the whistle, but this time she keeps walking forward. Bingo: whistle. Without going back to the door, she walks forward some more and hears the whistle just as she is coming up against the end table. She stops. She bumps the end table. No whistle. She waves her hands around; no whistle. One hand brushes the lampshade, and Anne whistles. Ruth begins touching the lampshade all over - moving it, turning it, rocking it: no whistle. Ruth\n\nreaches up underneath the lampshade. Whistle. Ruth reaches underneath the shade again, and, the gesture being very familiar and having a purpose, she executes the purpose and turns on the lamp. Anne whistles and the rest of us applaud.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 58, "chunk_index": 81, "id": "0ce28c64-d5fe-49c0-b9fc-1ea651c3671b", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "Things don't always go that smoothly, even with simple, familiar\n\nbehaviors. Anne, as it turned out, made a good training decision when she withheld reinforcement as Ruth moved from the spot where she'd first been reinforced, but in the wrong direction. If, however, Ruth had then moved back to the spot and just stood there, Anne might have been in trouble.\n\nHere's an example of a round of the Training Game that presented more\n\nof a problem. I was teaching training in a high school class. Leonard was the animal and Beth the trainer. The behavior was to turn on the ceiling lights with a wall switch.\n\nLeonard came into the room and began moving about, and Beth quickly shaped him to go to the wall where the light switch was. However, Leonard had started out with his hands in his pockets; after several reinforcements for moving about with his hands in his pockets, they were stuck there as if glued. He bumped the wall, he turned and leaned on the wall, he even leaned on the light switch, but the switch seemed to be invisible to him and he never took his hands out of his pockets.\n\nAs I watched, I thought that if Leonard could be induced to feel the wall\n\nwith a hand, he would notice the switch and turn on the light. But how to get those hands out of the pockets? Beth had another idea. She \"caught\" with the whistle a bent-knees movement while Leonard had his back to the wall and soon had shaped him to rub his back up and down on the wall near the switch. The other students giggled as they realized that by shifting the movement sideways Beth might get Leonard to move the switch with his back, thus meeting the criterion accidentally, if not deliberately. But it was a slow business, and we could see that Leonard was getting frustrated and angry.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 82, "id": "a4e1837b-50aa-420f-aa80-d584e6982f5f", "word_count": 323, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 419 } }, { "page_content": "\"Can I try?\" asked Maria. Beth glanced at me for approval, I shrugged,\n\nthe class seemed to acquiesce, and Maria got out her own whistle. (Acquiring a whistle was the only course requirement.) Maria waved Leonard back to the \"Start\" position at the door and then moved a chair near\n\nthe light switch, about a foot out from the wall, sat down on it herself, and nodded to Leonard to begin. He headed briskly for the wall where he had been reinforced so often, passing Maria and apparently ignoring her new position. As he passed her, she stuck out her foot and tripped him.\n\nLeonard's hands flew out of his pockets and against the wall, to break his\n\nfall; as his hands hit, the whistle blew. Leonard froze. He looked at Maria. She gazed into the middle distance, to avoid cuing him in any way. Tentatively he began patting the wall; she reinforced that. He patted the wall again, and this time he looked at what he was doing; she reinforced that. Then we all saw Leonard focus abruptly on the light switch. No one breathed. He straightened his spine a little, suddenly full of awareness, and switched on the lights. Tumultuous applause.\n\nEveryone involved in the Training Game, participants and spectators alike, learns from almost every reinforcer. The trainer, first of all, gets to discover what timing is all about. Suppose the subject approaches the light switch, but just as the trainer blows the whistle, the subject turns away. Well, thinks the trainer, I'll catch it next time. But now suppose the subject goes back to the starting point, then hurries toward the switch and whirls away from it. Groan. The trainer has shaped that whirl. And everyone, not just the trainer, sees how crucial it is to get the whistle in a little earlier, while the desired behavior is actually occurring.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 59, "chunk_index": 83, "id": "4ced4caa-e140-4a0c-8e26-12bfdf3569e4", "word_count": 313, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 406 } }, { "page_content": "The subject gets to discover that in this form of learning, brains don't help. It doesn't matter what you are thinking about; if you just keep moving around, collecting whistle sounds, your body will find out what to do without \"your\" help. This is an absolutely excruciating experience for brilliant, intellectual people. They tend to freeze when they hear the whistle and to try to analyze what they were doing. That they don't know, and that it doesn't matter that they don't know, is a shocker. A colleague, Sheri Gish, and I once trained psychologist Ronald Schusterman to walk around the room with his hands clenched behind his back for periods of up to a minute - a long time to go without a reinforcer, but he was diligent - until the assembled room agreed that we had the behavior thoroughly established, and burst into applause. (That is the reinforcer for the trainer, incidentally, and it almost always occurs spontaneously.) Ron, who trains many animals in his research, and who had rashly opined that he himself \"could not be\n\ntrained,\" was unaware that his clenched fists behind his back were now a shaped behavior, not just a subliminal expression of opinion.\n\nWhat this demonstrates is not some Machiavellian nature of", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 60, "chunk_index": 84, "id": "84f5eaa6-73f5-462e-9003-ad6ea667e482", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "reinforcement training but the hazards in our habitual error of assuming that verbal communication is all-important, and that learning cannot take place without the use of language or at least some verbal consciousness. The experience of nonverbal learning is especially useful for people who do a lot of verbal instructing in their professional lives: teachers, therapists, supervisors. Once you have been the \"animal,\" you can sympathize, even empathize, with any subject that is exhibiting the behavior you are shaping but has not yet comprehended what it is supposed to be doing, so that it easily makes mistakes. You can have patience with the animal (or the child or patient) that explodes in frustration and rage when what it had confidently thought was the right thing to do turns out to be no good, a contretemps that can bring human subjects close to tears. And once you have performed nonverbal shaping with adult human subjects in an exercise, you may not be so quick to say in a teaching, coaching, or training situation in real life that the subject (animal, student, whatever) \"hates me,\" or \"is deliberately trying to get my goat,\" or \"is stupid,\" or \"must be sick today.\" It is patently obvious, during this exercise in which everyone is participating by agreement and with a will, that whatever goes wrong is a function of the training, not the trainee.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 85, "id": "7938916a-040b-43c1-8bd8-9060c1838de9", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "The illumination this game provides for professionals is part of the fun (and everyone else gets your insights at the same time - you can't hide, but on the other hand you are bathed in amused sympathy). A charm of the game purely as entertainment is that anyone can play it without previous experience. Some people have a wonderful knack for it. In my experience intuitive, creative, intensely emotional people make great shapers, and calm, observant people make great animals - just the opposite of what you might expect. Finally, one has only to look at a roomful of people intent on the shaping going on, with everyone motionless but the subject, and the trainer's whole body and mind focused on the task, to see that this is an experience akin to painting or writing: It is creative work. Except on stage, creativity is rarely shared as a group experience. The Training Game is valuable for that aspect alone.\n\nWe played some memorable rounds of the Training Game at Sea Life\n\nPark, especially one in which philosopher Gregory Bateson, being the \"animal\" for some of my dolphin trainers, proved indeed to be impossible to train, not because he stood still and thought but because he offered such an endless variety of responses that the trainer was swamped. Another to me very interesting round of this game occurred following a luncheon of six professional women, mostly unknown to each other and from widely unrelated fields. After two hours of the game, in which a psychotherapist proved to be a marvelous \"animal\" and a disco dancer a brilliant shaper, we left knowing each other much better and liking each other a good deal, too.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 61, "chunk_index": 86, "id": "e572d303-82f8-4503-aabb-563653075664", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "In 1980 I taught an experimental course in training to a group of high school students at the Brearley School in New York City. We played the Training Game in class, and a hard core of half a dozen fiendishly imaginative young women began playing the Training Game at home among themselves, working in pairs usually, and shaping exotic behaviors such as crawling upstairs backward. They had been taught - successfully, in my opinion - to think analytically at the Brearley School, and they correctly did their hard thinking before and after a shaping session and flung themselves into the shaping itself with the normal gusto of sixteen-year- olds. In no time they were shaping parents, using positive reinforcement on teachers, and turning obnoxious siblings into amusing companions by selectively reinforcing desired behavior. I never saw a group, before or since, grasp both the techniques and their possibilities so rapidly.\n\nShaping Shortcuts: Targeting, Mimicry, and Modeling\n\nProfessional trainers use a number of techniques to make shaping go\n\nfaster. Three that may be of use to you are targeting, mimicry, and modeling.\n\nIn targeting, which is widely used in the training of sea lions and other performing animals, you shape the animal to touch its nose to a target - a knob on the end of a pole, say, or often simply the trainer's closed fist. Then, by moving the target around and getting the animal merely to go and touch it, you can elicit all kinds of other behavior, such as climbing stairs, jumping or rearing up, following the trainer, getting into and out of a", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 62, "chunk_index": 87, "id": "caa3e641-23bc-454b-b2a9-40cf8e294fda", "word_count": 266, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 345 } }, { "page_content": "shipping crate, and so on. We are essentially using targeting when we slap our thighs to coax a dog to us. The movement seems to attract dogs, and when they approach, we reinforce the behavior with petting. Patting the couch to invite someone to sit beside you is a form of targeting. Japanese tourist groups stick together among crowds of much taller people by following a flag held above the crowd by their tour leaders - again, targeting. Flags and banners have traditionally served the same purpose in battle. Targeting has become an important tool in the new field of reinforcement training, or \"clicker training,\" for dogs, horses, and zoo animals.\n\nMimicry comes naturally to some animals and birds, as well as to people. Young creatures of all sorts learn much of what they need to know by watching and then copying the behavior of their elders. While \"learning by observation\" is often taken by psychologists as a sign of intelligence in animals - primates being good at it and some other animals poor - I think the presence or absence of this skill in a species is a function of its ecology - that is, of its role in nature - rather than of intelligence per se. Some birds are remarkably good at behavioral mimicry. Titmice in England learned to open milk bottles on doorsteps and drink the cream, a skill that, through mimicry, spread so rapidly through the titmouse population that milk-bottle tops had to be redesigned.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 88, "id": "6397fbc1-22ef-427f-8da2-058d56d7a994", "word_count": 249, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 323 } }, { "page_content": "Many dogs are not good at learning by observation; when they do what other dogs are doing, it is usually because they are responding to the same stimuli, not because they are mimicking. On the other hand, most cats, which get lower \"IQ scores\" than dogs from the animal psychologists, are wonderful mimickers. The folk expression \"copycat\" is no accident. If you teach a trick - ringing the doorbell to be let in, say - to one cat in the household, new or other cats may well learn it with no training from you. Cats will even copy noncats. One evening my daughter spent an hour teaching her poodle to sit on a child's rocking chair and rock it, using chopped ham as the reinforcer. One of the cats was watching. When the lesson was over, the cat, unprompted, got on the chair and rocked it most correctly looking up for its own share of chopped ham, which it most certainly had earned.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 63, "chunk_index": 89, "id": "2726e83a-a654-44f8-84b0-10334990e9d9", "word_count": 163, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 211 } }, { "page_content": "I think this strong tendency to mimic explains why cats get stuck in trees. Climbing up comes more or less automatically: It is, as biologists say, \"hard-wired.\" The claws stick out and the cat runs up the tree. To get down, however, the cat has to descend backward, so that its down-curved claws can still operate, and this appears to be a learned, or \"soft-wired,\" skill. I can testify to this because I have personally (in the middle of the night, and on top of a ladder) shaped a cat to come down a tree backward. I did so in order to spare myself the mournful yowls of a stuck cat in the future, and indeed the cat stayed shaped - it never got stuck again (though it continued to climb trees). I think in nature cats learn how to turn around and descend backward from watching their mothers as they climb trees together, but because we take them from their mothers at such a tender age - six to eight weeks - this opportunity for copycatting is lost.\n\nDolphins have a strong tendency to mimic one another, which facilitates\n\ntraining. To get several dolphins doing the same thing you shape the behavior in one, then reinforce the others for any attempt to copy. In captivity baby dolphins often learn the adults' tricks long before they themselves are old enough for fish rewards, and many oceanariums have had the experience (\"understudies,\" animals on the sidelines that watch other performing animals and prove to have learned the show behaviors without ever being reinforced for them or even doing them.) For wild dolphins, apparently, being able to imitate other dolphins must be important for survival.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 90, "id": "f8fcf9b8-929e-41c8-b7a3-eebdd207f9bf", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "We can and should use mimicry wherever possible in teaching physical skills to humans - dancing, skiing, tennis, and so on. It's usually wise for the person giving the sample behavior to stand beside or turn his or her back to the subjects, so they can follow the motions with their own bodies without having to do any mental translating. The less deciphering needed, and the less verbal description used, the better the mimicry will work. Incidentally if you want to teach a right-handed skill (crocheting, say) to a left-handed person, you should sit facing him or her and have the subject mimic you, thus executing not the same-sided movements but a mirror image.\n\nOf course a major part of the shaping of the behavior of our children takes place through mimicry. What they see us do, they do too, for better or worse. In my post office one morning recently, three little children were\n\nmaking such a ruckus, it was hard to hear anything else. Their mother, waiting in line, yelled at them several times before she succeeded in frightening them into silence. \"How do you get kids to be quiet?\" she asked the postmistress. \"Try speaking softly yourself,\" the postmistress said, quite correctly. Columnist Judith Martin (\"Miss Manners\") suggests, when teaching good manners to children, that during the training period - \"from birth to marriage\" - everybody else in the house will have to eat tidily, speak civilly, and at least feign interest in the doings and conversation of others.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 64, "chunk_index": 91, "id": "d889cf02-534e-4180-9d95-1368606f634f", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "The third shaping shortcut, modeling, consists of pushing the subject manually through the action we want that subject to learn. A golfer does this when he puts his arms around the novice from behind, holds the club, and moves the club and the subject in the desired swing. Some of those who teach sign language to apes employ a lot of modeling. The trainer holds the young chimpanzee's hands and puts them in the desired positions or movements; eventually the ape is supposed to get the picture and make the movements spontaneously. Modeling was the secret of \"living statues,\" a circus act very popular around the turn of the century in which live people and horses were posed to resemble famous paintings or sculptures. The effect that audiences loved was the motionlessness. When the lights went up, there they all were, Napoleon's troops at Waterloo or whatever, caught as if in midmovement - not just the men but the horses, too, with necks arched, forelegs in midair, as if turned to stone. It was done, I am told, by massaging the horses for hours until they were utterly relaxed, and then modeling them like clay into the desired poses and reinforcing them for staying there.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 65, "chunk_index": 92, "id": "6f37b95d-1de6-43fe-9d27-39f950fb7e38", "word_count": 205, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 266 } }, { "page_content": "I am always a little dubious about modeling as a training device, even though it is widely used. Until the subject is doing the behavior or at least trying to do the behavior without being held or pushed or modeled, I am not sure much learning takes place. Often all the subject learns is to let you put it through the motions: The dog, being taught to retrieve, learns to let you hold its mouth shut with the dumbbell in its jaws, but when you let go, it lets go; the toddler, put firmly into a high chair, sits quietly while you hold him or her but is up and moving the minute you take your hand away. It's the modeler who gets trained - to hold or guide for longer and longer periods.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 65, "chunk_index": 93, "id": "695d1c9b-b8df-4303-8a24-53fa6b2e24c9", "word_count": 134, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 174 } }, { "page_content": "It would seem that by putting a subject through the same motions long enough, or often enough, eventually it would learn how to do the behavior. Sometimes this is true, but eventually can be a long time away, and to go from being pushed through a movement to doing it yourself requires insight: \"Aha! They want me to do this myself.\" This is an awful lot to ask of an animal. And even if your subject is an Einstein, repetition in the hope that enlightenment will strike is an inefficient use of valuable training time. The way to make modeling work is to combine it with shaping. While you are putting the subject in position, or through the motions, you stay sensitive to the smallest effort on the subject's part to initiate the proper motion, and that effort is the behavior you reinforce. The dog's jaws tighten on the dumbbell ever so slightly, the golfer begins to swing smoothly, the little chimp's hands move of themselves, and you praise that moment. Then you can shape the new skill while \"fading\" away the modeling. The combination of modeling and shaping is often an effective way of training behavior; but it is the combination that works and not the modeling alone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 94, "id": "15039090-2519-402e-9000-744f44706b73", "word_count": 209, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 271 } }, { "page_content": "You can shape behavior in just about any organism. Psychologists have shaped tiny babies to wave their arms to make the lights in the room go off and on. You can shape birds. You can shape fish. I shaped a large hermit crab once to ring a dinner bell by pulling on a string with its claw. (The trick was to get the food to the crab the instant its claw, waving about aimlessly, connected with the string; I used a long pair of dissecting forceps to put bits of shrimp right into the crab's mouthparts.) Harvard professor Richard Herrnstein told me he once shaped a scallop to clap its shell for a food reward. (He didn't tell me how he got the food to the scallop.) Marine mammal trainers like to boast that they can shape any animal to do anything it is physically and mentally capable of doing, and as far as I can tell, they can.\n\nOne of the effects of shaping sessions, especially if they are fruitful experiences for the subject, is to increase attention span; actually you are shaping duration of participation. However, some organisms naturally do not have long attention spans. Immature organisms - puppies, foals, babies - should never be asked for more than three or four repetitions of a given\n\nbehavior; pressure beyond that may discourage or frighten. This is not to say that immature organisms can't learn. They are learning all the time, but in brief snatches. A fishing captain I know taught his four-month-old granddaughter to \"Gimme five!\" and the baby's enthusiastic open-handed slap of his palm, in a tiny simulacrum of the jazz musician's greeting, was a never-failing hit with spectators. But he did it in only a few almost momentary \"training sessions.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 66, "chunk_index": 95, "id": "2364e3bc-4f6f-4597-8920-0386a5c52395", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "Infancy is not the only biological constraint affecting shaping. Some behaviors come naturally to some species and are difficult for others. Pigs, for example, seem to find it hard to carry something about in their jaws but easy to learn to shove things with their snouts. Most breeds of dogs have been developed for behavioral tendencies as well as looks: One hardly needs to shape a collie to herd sheep, since the necessary stalking behavior has been established, even exaggerated, by breeding; but you'd be giving yourself a tough assignment if you decided to shape sheepherding in a basset hound. Some skills are more easily learned at particular stages of development; a baby mongoose may be tamed and turned into a delightful pet up to the age of six weeks but not after that. Humans are generally thought to acquire languages more easily as children than as adults, although linguists have recently found that an adult who is willing to work at it can probably learn a new language faster than most children and teenagers. One behavior I think is really very difficult to teach to humans in adulthood is swimming. We are among the very few species that do not swim naturally, and while you can teach an adult to float and to make the proper strokes, I have never seen anyone frolic or be at ease in deep water unless he or she learned to swim in childhood.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 96, "id": "358a36db-2083-4d43-b346-b7e76c7201af", "word_count": 240, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 312 } }, { "page_content": "How about shaping yourself? All kinds of programs exist for changing one's own behavior: SmokeEnders, Weight Watchers, and so on. Most such programs draw heavily on shaping methods, usually called behavior modification, and they may or may not be successful. The difficulty, I think, is that they require you to reinforce yourself. But when you are reinforcing yourself, the event is never a surprise - the subject always knows what the trainer is up to. This makes it awfully easy to say \"The heck with getting another star on my chart, I'd rather have a cigarette.\"\n\nSelf-shaping may work for some people. Other people may be successful only after going through three or four different programs, or several repetitions of a given method. Such people can in fact successfully change a habit or give up an addiction, but hardly ever on the first try. Still others may be helped enormously by some form of hypnosis or self- hypnosis. A senior editor at a big publishing house told me that he was able to kick a major cigarette habit by learning, from a hypnotist, to relax into a light trance through self-hypnosis, and to repeat as a mantra or charm a phrase such as \"I do not want to smoke\" whenever he felt an overpowering urge. For him, as he put it, this technique seemed to \"drop a curtain\" between him and the cigarette; relief and self-congratulation when the urge had passed was the reinforcer. Whether this is actually what happened or whether other reinforcement contingencies were also in effect is of course impossible to say.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 67, "chunk_index": 97, "id": "e6ea22c4-6567-4f90-8247-83f93e74f1c7", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "Out of curiosity, while writing this book, I tried out some formal shaping\n\nprograms, two classroom-taught and two self-administered, for quitting smoking and for learning meditation, weight control, and money management. All were moderately successful but not necessarily at first; some took well over a year. The single most useful device in self- reinforcement, I found, was record keeping, which all four programs made use of. I needed to record performance in such a way that improvement could be seen at a glance. I used graphs. Thus my guilt over a lapse could be assuaged by looking at the graphs and seeing that, even so, I was doing much better now than I had been six months previously. Perfection might still be a long way off, but the \"curve,\" or sloping line, of the graph was in the right direction, and this visible proof of improvement, while itself a weak and slow-operating reinforcer, did provide enough motivation to keep me going most of the time.\n\nOne kind of self-administered shaping that works beautifully is training\n\nby computer. Amusing reinforcements can be built into the computer program so that learning proceeds fast and the shaping experience is fun. It has become an extremely promising application of the laws of positive reinforcement.\n\nIn formal training situations, such as a tennis lesson, the subject knows\n\nhe or she is being shaped and is usually a willing party to the procedure. Thus you don't have to just wait for the response and reinforce it. You can use words to prompt the behavior, and without harm: \"Do this. Good. Now do it twice. Good.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 68, "chunk_index": 98, "id": "97a1aa0e-319a-4f4c-b26d-119a67039fcc", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "In informal situations in real life, however, you are probably better off\n\nshaping without instructions or verbal discussion. Suppose you have a messy roommate who leaves dirty clothes all over the place, and verbal instructions - scolding, pleading, whatever - haven't worked. Can you shape neatness? Possibly.\n\nYou would of course draw up a shaping plan, the initial and intermediate\n\nsteps by which you would reach the desired goal. To get dirty clothes into the hamper every time, for example, you might start with one sock, once, and \"target\" the behavior by holding out the open hamper just as the sock is about to go on the floor. The reinforcer can be verbal, tactile, or whatever you think the roommate would be likely to respond to or accept. People are not dumb; they modify their behavior on just a handful of reinforcers. Even if the scattering of dirty clothes is actually an act of subtle aggression directed against you (\"Pick up my clothes, peon!\"), by using positive reinforcement you can shape a steady and visible progress toward whatever you consider an adequate level of tidiness.\n\nThere are, however, two traps in this use of shaping. The first is that it is", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 99, "id": "1170c5c7-1a12-4801-9489-f135212509d1", "word_count": 201, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 261 } }, { "page_content": "easier to notice mistakes than to notice improvement, so, verbal creatures that we are, it is much easier for us to remonstrate when criteria are not met than to reinforce when they are. And that can undo the progress. The second trap is that if you are calculating to shape someone's behavior, it is very tempting to talk about it. And talking about it can ruin it. If you say, \"I am going to reinforce you\" - for putting your laundry in the hamper, for not smoking marijuana, for spending less, or whatever - you are bribing or promising, not actually reinforcing; on learning of your plans, the person may rebel, instantly, and escalate misbehavior. To get results, you have to do the shaping, not talk about it.\n\nAnd if you do achieve success in shaping someone else's behavior, you better not brag about it later, either. Some shapers never catch on to this and insist on showing off what \"they\" did - patronizing at best, and a great way\n\nto make a lifelong enemy of the subject. Besides, while you may have helped someone improve a skill or get rid of a bad habit by changing your behavior in order to reinforce appropriately, who actually did all the hard work? The subject. Wise parents never go around talking about what a good job they did raising their kids. For one thing, we all know the job is never over, and for another, the kids deserve the credit - if only for surviving all the training mistakes we made.\n\nBecause the shaping of people can or even must be tacit, it smacks to\n\nsome people of an evil sort of manipulativeness. I think this is a misunderstanding. The reason the shaping needs to be nonverbal is that it is behavior we are working with, not ideas, and not just the subjects' behavior but yours as well.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 69, "chunk_index": 100, "id": "dc2bd970-1f18-4210-8f5b-e3f91c734da7", "word_count": 316, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 410 } }, { "page_content": "However: Since you can shape people's behavior without their conscious awareness that you are doing so, and since, outside of the formal agreement to be shaped, as in a tennis lesson, you almost have to shape human behavior on the nonverbal level, then isn't it possible to shape people to do horrible things?\n\nYes, indeed, especially if you are using, as negative reinforcement, an aversive stimulus so severe as to cause real fear, even terror. Psychologists have discovered in the laboratory a phenomenon called learned helplessness. If an animal is taught to avoid an aversive stimulus, such as an electric shock, by pressing a lever or moving to another part of the cage, and is then placed in a cage where there is absolutely no way it can avoid the shock, it will gradually give up trying. It will become completely malleable and passive, and may even lie there and accept punishment when the way to freedom is once again open. \"Brainwashing\" is possibly a related phenomenon in people. If a person is subjected to severe deprivation and inescapable fear or pain, and if the aversive stimuli are subsequently used as negative reinforcers - that is, as contingencies that the subject can avoid or cause to desist by a change in behavior - well, then ... animals tend to go to pieces, but people are tougher, and some will do anything they need to do to avoid the negative reinforcement. Let the photographs of Patty Hearst, holding a machine gun in a bank robbery, be evidence. But while her captors did not need a book to tell them how to do that, would we not all be", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 70, "chunk_index": 101, "id": "b9cb6a30-5778-4fd1-ab88-a5a33a14c0ca", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "better defended against such events if we understood, each of us, how the laws of shaping work?\n\n3 - Stimulus Control: Cooperation Without Coercion Stimuli\n\nAnything that causes some kind of behavioral response is called a\n\nstimulus. Some stimuli can cause responses without any learning or training: We flinch at a loud noise, blink at a bright light, and tend to wander into the kitchen when appetizing smells waft out to us; animals would do the same. Such sounds, lights, and scents are called unconditioned, or primary, stimuli.\n\nOther stimuli are learned by association with a reinforced behavior. They\n\nmay be meaningless in themselves, but they have become recognizable signals for behavior: Traffic lights make us stop and go, we leap to answer a ringing telephone, on a noisy street we turn at the sound of our own name, and so on and on. In any given day we respond to a multitude of learned signals. These are called stimuli, cues, or signals.\n\nWe learn the cues or signals because the behavior we associate with them is one that has a history of being reinforced. Picking up a ringing telephone silences the bell (a negative reinforcer) and brings us a human voice (a positive reinforcer, or so one hopes). The signal or discriminative stimulus sets the stage, or gives us the go-ahead, for a behavior that has in the past led to reinforcement. Conversely, the absence of the stimulus informs us that no reinforcer will be forthcoming for that particular behavior. Pick up a telephone that is not ringing, and all you get is a dial tone.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 102, "id": "b36d36c2-45f5-43ec-8eff-030782a72b6f", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "An enormous part of most formal training efforts consists of establishing\n\ndiscriminative stimuli. The drill sergeant with a platoon of recruits and the dog owner in a training class are equally and primarily concerned with getting trainees to obey commands, which are actually discriminative\n\nstimuli. It's not impressive that a dog can sit or a man can halt; what is impressive is that it is done with precision and on command. That is what we call obedience - not merely the acquisition of behaviors but the guarantee that they will be executed when the signal is given. Psychologists call this \"bringing behavior under stimulus control.\" It is hard to train, the training follows rules, and the rules are worth examination.\n\nWhat if you don't care to boss some dog around and never in your life\n\nplan to train a drill team? You can still make use of an understanding of stimulus control. For example, if your kids dawdle and don't come when you call, you have poor stimulus control. If you supervise people, and you sometimes have to give an order or instruction two or three times before it gets done, you have a stimulus-control problem. Did you ever hear these words come out of your mouth: \"If I've told you once, I've told you a thousand times, don't ... \" (slam the door, or leave your wet bathing suit on the couch, or whatever)? When telling once or a thousand times isn't working, the-behavior is not under stimulus control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 71, "chunk_index": 103, "id": "89dd091f-8b93-4571-b189-08ae37f69948", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "We may think we have stimulus control when actually we don't. We expect a signal or command to be obeyed in such cases, and it isn't. One common human reaction is to escalate the signal. The waiter doesn't understand your French? Speak louder. Usually this doesn't work. The subject has to recognize the signal; otherwise it doesn't matter if you yell, or blare it through a rock-band amplification system, you'll still get a blank stare. Another human reaction to failure to get a response to a conditioned stimulus is to get mad. This works only if the subject is exhibiting undesirable behavior or not giving a well-learned response to a well-learned cue. Then sometimes an aversive, such as a time out or a show of temper, can elicit good behavior.\n\nSometimes the subject responds correctly but after a delay or in a dilatory manner. Often a sluggish response to commands is due to the fact that the subject has not been taught to respond quickly. Without positive reinforcement, not only for the correct response to a cue but also for prompt response, the subject has had no chance to learn that there are benefits in quick obedience to signals. The behavior really isn't under stimulus control.\n\nReal life abounds in bad management of stimulus control. Whenever one person is trying to exert authority, another person is likely to be getting into\n\ntrouble for \"disobedience\"; but the real problem is commands that are not understood or signals that can't be obeyed - poor communication or sloppy stimulus control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 72, "chunk_index": 104, "id": "bb1b5676-8106-4326-a96d-a967a19f77e1", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Conventional trainers start with the cue, before they begin training: \"Sit!\" Then they push the dog into a sit. After many repetitions, the dog learns to sit, in order to avoid being pushed around, and in due course learns that the word sit is his chance to avoid being yanked by exhibiting the sit behavior. Conventional cues or commands are, in fact, conditioned negative reinforcers.\n\nIn operant conditioning, on the other hand, we shape the behavior first.\n\nWhy, after all, would you want to tell the dog to do something it can't possibly understand yet? Once the behavior is secure, we shape the offering of the behavior during or right after some particular stimulus. For example, with the clicker and reinforcers, we develop the behavior of sitting - quickly neatly, long and often, here on the grass and there on the rug, meeting many criteria - until the dog is offering us sits with great confidence, in the hope of earning reinforcers. Now we introduce the cue as a sort of green light, a chance to earn reinforcers, for that particular behavior. This kind of cue thus becomes a conditioned positive reinforcer: it is guaranteed to lead to reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 105, "id": "0c287a9f-0630-4b65-a05f-e95ce71057c1", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "There are several ways to introduce the cue. You may produce the cue just as the behavior is starting, reinforce the completion of the behavior, and then repeat this sequence, at different times and in different locations, gradually backing up the cue in time, until the cue comes before the behavior starts. By and by the learner will identify the cue as the opportunity for that particular behavior to be reinforced: and when you say \"Sit,\" the dog will sit. A second method - and this is what we used with dolphins - is to alternate between cue and no cue. The behavior is happening frequently. You say \"Sit\" and click the next sit. Then you let a sit or two go by unclicked and unreinforced. Then you say \"Sit\" again, and reinforce the sit that follows the cue. You are, in the same training session, reinforcing on-cue sits and extinguishing off-cue sits.\n\nOnce your learner understands the rules, new cues can be attached to new behaviors practically instantly this way. However, difficulties may arise with \"green\" or inexperienced animals learning their first cues. The source of difficulty is the process called extinction. Extinction refers to removing a reinforcer for a behavior that used to pay off. It is an aversive experience (Chapter 4) and may engender emotions. I have been soaked from head to foot by a dolphin irate over being unpaid for a behavior that had previously earned a fish.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 73, "chunk_index": 106, "id": "b75f94d6-485d-4697-9899-6c66632aac1a", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "[A third way to add a cue is to shape response to the cue as if it were behavior in itself. If this is a puppy's first clicker-trained behavior, you may find the puppy running in front of you and practically tripping you up to show you sits: \"Look, I'm doing it, see?\" The clicker trainers would say that the dog is \"throwing sits at you.\" This is the perfect time to introduce a cue. The dog is ready to learn a cue, and you need to be able to tell the dog when sitting will work, so it doesn't volunteer the behavior right under your feet when you have your arms full of groceries.\n\nGet out the clicker and treats, say \"Sit,\" and click the first tiny movement\n\nof rump toward ground: not the whole behavior, just the start of the movement. Toss the food so the dog has to get on its feet to eat, again say, \"Sit\" and again click the sit before it's complete. You can make the cue very broad: add a hand signal, body English, speak very clearly. Be sure to cease all those auxiliary cues the instant you click.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 107, "id": "2eb14bfd-676d-4c94-877a-1a8b9e399343", "word_count": 196, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 254 } }, { "page_content": "Often, in this fashion, one can get a vigorous on-cue sit in just a few clicks. You then return to clicking the sit after the cue but when the rump is fully on the ground (so the dog doesn't start making a habit of half-sits). The next step is to intersperse some other well-learned behavior - perhaps calling the pup over to be patted - between bouts of giving and reinforcing the new sit cue. The last step is to shape the behavior of waiting for the cue - half a second, then a second, then three seconds - until the dog is visibly attending to you and not offering behavior until the cue comes. When that's done, you can start fading out all those auxiliary cues and just using the word. You have developed cue response as an operant behavior, intentionally offered in the hope of gaining reinforcers.\n\nIn my observation this is the fastest way to establish both individual cues\n\nand the generalization that cues are indicators of which behavior to\n\nperform. A woman brought a four-month-old black Labrador puppy, just adopted from a kennel, to one of my seminars. On Saturday at the lunch break I helped her shape the puppy's first clicker-trained behavior, lying down. I feel I am safe in saying that this puppy was clueless, innocent of any training whatsoever. It took a long time just to get the puppy to notice that what it was doing had some effect on the arrival of treats.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 74, "chunk_index": 108, "id": "6a7c3d88-e98f-4eb8-9095-59450f70644a", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "That afternoon everyone practiced shaping cue recognition. The next day, at the lunch break, the same owner and same puppy came to my side. Guess what this pup had learned, in twenty-four hours: sit, down, roll over, come, a super \"high five\" in which the little puppy rolled its weight to the left and threw its right paw straight up as far as it could reach into the air - and the beginnings of a retrieve. All on cue, rapid-fire, correct, and in any order. The puppy, furthermore, was electrified, a totally different dog, attentive, full of fun, muscles all engaged - ready for life.\n\nThere are four aspects to stimulus control. When a dog, by whatever method, has learned to sit when you say \"Sit,\" the job is finished, right?\n\nWrong. Only half the job is finished. The animal must also be trained - and it is a separate training task - not to sit when it has not been given the command. Bringing behavior under stimulus control is not accomplished until the behavior is also extinguished in the absence of the conditioned stimulus.\n\nThis does not mean, of course, that the dog must stand up all day unless you say \"Sit.\" The subject can do what it pleases on its own time. It is in the training or working situation, where discriminative stimuli, or cues and signals, are going to be used, that both the \"go\" and the \"no-go\" aspects of a signal must be established if performance is to be reliable.\n\nComplete, perfect stimulus control is defined by four conditions, each\n\none of which may have to be approached as a separate training task, a separate item in the shaping recipe:", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 109, "id": "a74adee3-fd89-4fb4-a770-46b08f6c5386", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "1. The behavior always occurs immediately upon presentation of the conditioned stimulus (the dog sits when told to).\n\n2. The behavior never occurs in the absence of the stimulus (during a training or work session the dog never sits spontaneously).\n\n3. The behavior never occurs in response to some other stimulus (if you say \"Lie down,\" the dog does not offer the sit instead).\n\n4. No other behavior occurs in response to this stimulus (when you say \"Sit,\" the dog does not respond by lying down or by leaping up and licking your face).\n\nOnly when all four conditions are met does the dog really, fully, and finally understand the command \"Sit!\" Now you have real stimulus control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 75, "chunk_index": 110, "id": "8dc967af-c953-4599-b954-949ec2acc2b8", "word_count": 118, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 153 } }, { "page_content": "Where, in real life, do we use or need such complete stimulus control? In music, for one example. Orchestra conductors often make very complex use of stimulus control, and, in turn, a conductor in rehearsal may come upon every possible kind of response error. He may, for example, signal for a response - \"Forte,\" more volume, say - and not get it, perhaps because he has not yet clearly established the meaning of the signal. Or he may avoid signaling for more volume and get too much sound anyway. The brass section of classical orchestras is famous for this; Richard Strauss, in a satiric list of rules for young conductors, said, \"Never look encouragingly at the brass players.\" The conductor may signal for another behavior - \"Presto,\" perhaps - and instead of getting faster music, the conductor gets more volume. Tenor soloists seem to do this a lot. Finally, the conductor may ask for more volume and instead get a lot of mistakes. Amateur choruses do this. Each kind of error in response to the cue must be corrected, by training, before the conductor will be satisfied that he or she has adequate stimulus control.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 111, "id": "499d3301-f514-4dd3-8b8f-743d37123511", "word_count": 195, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 253 } }, { "page_content": "Stimulus control is also vital in the military. The training of rookies in close-order drill, a laborious and time-consuming business, may seem both difficult and meaningless to the recruits, but it has an important function. Not only does it establish prompt response to marching commands, which enables the leaders to move large groups of men about efficiently, but it also trains the skill of responding to learned stimuli in general: obedience to commands, which is after all not just a state of mind but a learned ability, constituting a crucial and often lifesaving skill to a soldier. Ever since armies were invented, close-order drill has been a way of training this skill.\n\nA discriminative stimulus - a learned signal - can be anything, absolutely\n\nanything, that the subject is capable of perceiving. Flags, lights, words, touch, vibration, popping champagne corks - it simply doesn't matter what kind of signal you use. As long as the subject can sense it, the signal can be used to cause learned behavior to occur.\n\nDolphins are usually trained with visual hand signals, but I know of a\n\nblind dolphin that learned to offer many behaviors in response to being touched in various ways. Sheepdogs are usually trained with hand signals and voice commands. In New Zealand, however, where the countryside is wide and the dog may be far off, the signals are often piercing whistles, which carry farther than voice commands. When a shepherd in New Zealand sells such a dog, the buyer may live many miles away; with no way to write down whistles, the old owner teaches the new owner the commands over the telephone or gives him a tape cassette.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 76, "chunk_index": 112, "id": "4ef2d3ff-3dd3-4c19-a5ba-c2474666cdac", "word_count": 279, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 362 } }, { "page_content": "Fish will learn to respond to sounds or lights - we all know how fish in an aquarium rush to the top when you tap the glass or turn on the light. And human beings can learn to respond to practically anything.\n\nIt is useful, in a working situation, to teach all subjects the same cues and signals, so that other people can cue the same behaviors. Thus animal trainers tend to be quite traditional about the stimuli they use. All over the world horses go forward when you kick their ribs and halt when you pull on the reins. The camels at the Bronx Zoo lie down when they're told \"Couche,\" pronounced \"Coosh,\" even though no one around them, including their trainer, speaks North African French; everybody just knows that's how you're supposed to tell a camel to lie down. That New York camels could just as well learn to lie down on hearing \"Cool it, baby\" doesn't matter.\n\nTraditional trainers often fail to realize that their signals are mere\n\nconventions. Once at a boarding stables I was working with a young horse on a lead line, teaching it \"Walk!\" as a command. The trainer at the stables looked on with disgust and finally said, \"You can't do it that way - horses don't understand 'Walk'; you have to say 'Tch, tch'!\" Taking the rope from my hand he said, \"Tch, tch,\" and popped the colt on the rump with the loose\n\nrope end, which naturally made the horse start forward. \"See?\" he said, point proved.\n\nI saw. From then on, wherever I boarded my ponies, I trained them to respond not only to my commands, but to whatever set of giddyaps, gees, haws, and whoas were used by the trainer in charge. It saved trouble, and it made them think I was quite a promising amateur trainer. At least I didn't have my signals crossed!", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 77, "chunk_index": 113, "id": "2c3a8e7e-23fb-4171-8750-8d145d47c9f2", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "It was not only possible but easy to train the ponies to two sets of commands. While you don't want more than one behavior occurring on a single stimulus, it's perfectly feasible to have several learned signals for one behavior. For example, in a crowded room a speaker can ask for quiet by shouting \"Quiet\" or by standing up and raising one hand in a gesture meaning \"Hush.\" Or, if the occupants of the room are noisy, banging a spoon on a water glass will work. We're all conditioned to give this one behavior in response to any of at least three stimuli.\n\nEstablishing a second cue for a learned behavior is called transferring the stimulus control. To make a transfer, you present the new stimulus - a voice command, perhaps - first, and then the old one - a hand signal, say - and reinforce the response; then you gradually make the old stimulus less and less obvious while calling attention to the new one by making it very obvious, until the response is given equally well to the new stimulus, even without giving the old one at all. This usually goes quite a bit faster than the training of the original signal; since \"Do this behavior\" and \"Do this behavior on cue\" have already been established, \"Do this behavior on another cue, too\" is more easily learned.\n\nLearned cues or signals do not have to be of any particular volume or", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 78, "chunk_index": 114, "id": "00964932-62ef-435a-b70a-e43053d75fcb", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "size to get results. A primary, or unconditioned, stimulus produces a gradation of results, depending on its intensity; one reacts more vigorously to a sharp jab than to a pinprick, and the louder the noise, the more it startles. A learned cue, however, merely has to be recognized to lead to the full response. You see a red light and you stop the car; you don't stop faster or slower depending on the size of the light fixture. As long as you recognize the signal you know what to do. Therefore, once a stimulus has been learned, it is possible not only to transfer it but also to make it smaller and smaller, until it is barely perceptible, and still get the same results. Eventually you can get results with a signal so small that it cannot be perceived by a bystander. This is a form of \"fading\" the stimulus.\n\nWe use fading all the time: What has to be a very broad stimulus at first\n\n(\"No, Dickie, we do not put sand in other children's hair,\" as you remove Dickie forcibly from the sandbox) becomes, with time, a small signal (merely a lifted eyebrow or wagged index finger). Animal trainers sometimes get wonderful, apparently magical results with faded stimuli. One of the funniest acts I've seen involved a parrot at the San Diego Wild Animal Park that cackled in hysterical laughter in response to a tiny movement of the trainer's hand. You can see the possibilities: \"Pedro, what do you think of this man's hat?\" \"Hahahahaha ... \" Because the audience did not see the signal, the parrot's single learned behavior seemed the product of a sardonic intelligence cuttingly answering the question; actually, it was a well-timed response to a well-faded stimulus, and the sardonic intelligence, if any, belonged to the trainer, or maybe the scriptwriter.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 115, "id": "cf0181bc-db42-4c88-a3e8-742b00681dc9", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "The best examples of conditioning, fading, and transferring stimuli I have observed occurred not in the world of animal training but in symphony rehearsal halls. As an amateur singer I worked in several opera and symphony choruses, often under guest conductors. While many of the signals conductors give to musicians are more or less standardized, each conductor has personal signals as well. The meaning of these must be established in a very short time; rehearsal time often barely exceeds\n\nperformance time. Once, in a rehearsal of Mahler's \"Resurrection\" symphony, just as the basses were about to make their usual booming entrance, I watched the conductor establish an unconditioned stimulus for \"Come in softly\" by miming an expression of wild alarm and crouching with a hand thrown across his face as if to ward off a blow. Everyone got the message, and in the next few minutes the conductor was able to fade the stimulus, reducing volume in any section of the chorus with a warning glance and a bit of a crouch, or a fleeting echo of the hand gesture, and finally with just a flinch of the shoulder. Conductors also often transfer stimuli by combining a known or obvious gesture - an upward movement of the palm for \"Louder,\" say - with an unknown gesture such as a personal tilt of the head or turn of the body. Sitting on the conductor's left in the alto section, I once saw a guest conductor momentarily transfer all the altos' louder-softer signals to his left elbow.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 79, "chunk_index": 116, "id": "345c3d1a-9ec5-49d8-9a1b-1461828985c9", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "One result of establishing stimulus control is that the subject must become attentive if it wants to get reinforced for responding correctly, especially if the stimuli are faded. In fact the subject may eventually be able to perceive signals so subtle that the trainer is not even aware of giving them. One classic example is the case of Clever Hans, a horse in Germany at the turn of the century, which was said to be a genius. By pawing with its foot it could count, do arithmetic, spell out words, and even do square roots; right answers were, of course, rewarded with a tidbit. The owner, a retired schoolteacher, truly thought he had taught the horse to read, think, do math, and communicate. Indeed the animal would \"answer\" questions when the owner was not present.\n\nMany learned gentlemen traveled to Berlin to study Clever Hans and\n\nwere convinced the horse was a genius. One psychologist, however, eventually demonstrated that the horse was being cued somehow, in that if no one in the room knew the answer, the horse would paw indefinitely. It took much further investigation - over the protests of those who were convinced the horse really was a genius - to demonstrate that the cue to stop pawing was a minuscule lift of the owner's or any questioner's head when the right number was reached, a movement originally exaggerated by a broad-brimmed hat the schoolteacher wore but by now so small that it was not only almost impossible to see (except by Clever Hans) but almost\n\nimpossible to suppress by conscious effort. That was how the horse could tell when to stop pawing from watching people other than its owner.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 80, "chunk_index": 117, "id": "f564eafa-598c-4e74-90df-f0cfdfd1a117", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "The Clever Hans phenomenon has now become the name for any circumstance in which apparently amazing behavior, ranging from animal intelligence to psychic phenomena, is actually unconsciously cued by some often-minute or faded behavior of the experimenter that has become a discriminative stimulus for the subject's behavior.\n\nA physical target can be a very useful type of discriminative stimulus for\n\nall sorts of learners and behaviors. Targeting is a favorite device of many marine mammal trainers; you'll see targets in use at almost any marine park. Trainers hold out a fist for the sea lion to touch, and then move the sea lion around the stage by moving the fist. Dolphins are taught to jump straight up to bump a ball hung high above the water. Sometimes two or three trainers, each with a ball or padded target on a pole, are stationed around the pool to provide a series of targets for a whale swimming from point to point.\n\nTeaching an animal to touch the end of a stick with its nose is an\n\nexcellent beginning exercise for the new reinforcement trainer. You can see and feel the behavior; it's easy to reinforce, and easy to see how to raise criteria in small steps: two inches from the nose, four inches, to the left, right, up, down, and then forward, until the animal (or the bird, or the fish) is following the target stick around. The owner of a dog training school in Holland told me that one morning she clicker-trained her house cat to target on her coffee spoon and thus was able to lead it all around the breakfast table. The experience was so convincing that she immediately converted her entire school to clicker training.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 118, "id": "93c6dd2a-f972-4422-bef4-c7f4dbad340f", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Zoos use targeting, with clicks and treats, to move tigers and polar bears from one cage to another; to get small animals such as pottos and lemurs to hold still for medication or veterinary inspection; and to separate animals. A video by Gary Priest, curator of behavior at the San Diego Zoo, shows three giraffes learning to touch three individual targets, so that they can be shaped to go calmly into a stall and allow their hooves to be trimmed.\n\nDog owners have taken to the target stick with alacrity. One can use a target stick to teach a rambunctious, out-of-control dog to walk nicely in heel position. No jerking on the leash, no elaborate training, just longer and longer stretches of \"Keep your nose just about here for a click and a treat.\" You can stick the target stick in the ground and use it to teach the dog to go away from you on cue, something obedience competitors often find difficult. You can put the dog through obstacles, or into new places, with a target. Police trainers and search-and-rescue dog trainers are using a laser pointer to send dogs into particular areas. Cats, also, will readily learn to chase the little red dot that the laser pointer projects. It's a great way to have fun with and exercise an indoor cat; and it impresses visitors no end if, for example, your cat, trained with the laser, will jump to the top of the refrigerator on cue.\n\nTarget-training, established with a marker signal and treats, can be", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 81, "chunk_index": 119, "id": "247204b6-c91c-4a0f-827e-d1f3ca5f62ba", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "useful with nonverbal humans, too. A special education teacher told me that she saw marine mammal trainers using targets and immediately applied targeting in her work. One day she was assigned to work with an extremely active little boy with developmental deficits. The work required him to sit at a desk; but their usual classroom was busy, so they were sent to work in the gym. Surrounded by big balls and rockers and climbing equipment, the child, of course, ran off to play. She could not physically make him sit at the table, nor did she want to. So she held out her palm and said \"Touch.\" He did. \"Good.\" With \"touch\" and \"good\" she was able to lead him to his chair and keep him there long enough to get the work done, with short bouts of romping inserted periodically. (Knowing you can get your learner back, with a cue such as a target, makes one much more willing to use freedom as a reinforcer!) I have also witnessed targets, including the teacher's hand and the laser pointer, being used to help profoundly low-functioning individuals learn to walk to their classrooms, or desks, or other destinations, voluntarily and without physical guidance - a liberating skill for the learner and the teacher both.\n\nThe one case where magnitude of a discriminative stimulus might seem to make a difference is in the traditional training of domestic animals. Often\n\nthe cue - a tug on the reins, or on the leash, a nudge in the horse's ribs - is a watered-down version of the original unconditioned stimulus, the harsher pull or jerk or hard kick that provoked an untrained response. So if the gentle stimulus doesn't work, it seems as if you should get a bigger response with a bigger stimulus. Efforts to put this into practice lead to problems, however.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 82, "chunk_index": 120, "id": "3d3e2f80-c77a-4b0a-abe5-15cb6a7a937b", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "The learned signal and the primary stimulus are two separate kinds of events, and novices tend to be unaware of this. If they don't get a response to, say, a gentle pull, they pull a little harder, then a little harder than that, all quite futilely as the horse or dog is pulling with equally increasing force in the opposite direction.\n\nConventional trainers tend to treat the cue and the use of force separately; they give the signal, and if it is not obeyed, they skip any gradations and immediately elicit the behavior with an extremely strong aversive stimulus - enough to \"refresh his memory,\" as one horse trainer puts it. This is the function of the choke chain used in dog training. Properly taught, even a small person using such a collar can give a quick jerk-and- release powerful enough to knock a Great Dane off its feet. With this primary stimulus in reserve, one can quickly develop good response to a very gentle tug. As British trainer Barbara Woodhouse pointed out, it is in the long run far kinder than perpetually tugging and hauling on the poor beast's neck at some intermediate and meaningless level of force. Shaping the same behavior with positive reinforcers is, of course, even kinder, and also more effective in the short and the long run. Modern dog trainers now use positive reinforcers and a marker signal, such as a word or a click, to accomplish all of the traditional dog behaviors that used to be trained by force.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 121, "id": "43a62bcb-0250-4c88-a665-2014153751e7", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "A discriminative stimulus that is a cue for avoiding an aversive event can not only reduce any need for physical control or intervention, it can even suppress behavior in the trainers absence. My Border terrier, as a young dog, became fond of digging into the wastebaskets and spreading the contents around. I didn't want to punish her, but I also didn't want to constantly empty the wastebaskets.\n\nI filled a spray bottle with water and added a few drops of vanilla extract: a strong but pleasant scent to me. Then I gritted my teeth and\n\nsprayed the dog in the face. She was dismayed and ran. I sprayed the wastebaskets with the scented water. She stayed away from the wastebaskets from then on. There was no need for the scent to be distasteful to her; the stimulus was completely neutral in itself. It was the association that was distasteful. I did find that to maintain her behavior, I had to refresh the stimulus by sprinkling a few drops of vanilla in the wastebaskets about every three months. It was never again necessary to spray the dog.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 83, "chunk_index": 122, "id": "5fb6136c-c748-4ac1-b229-2f2582d4584c", "word_count": 186, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 241 } }, { "page_content": "The same principle is at work in the Invisible Fence systems for keeping a dog on your property. A radio wire is strung around the area in which you want to confine the dog. The dog wears a collar with a receiver in it. If the dog gets too near the line, the collar shocks it. However, a few feet before that point, the collar gives a warning buzz. The warning buzzer is a discriminative stimulus for \"Don't go any further.\" If the setup is properly installed, a trained dog can be effectively confined and will never receive an actual shock. I used such a fence when my terrier and I lived in a house in the woods. An actual fence would have been a perpetual invitation to try to dig under it or escape through an open gate; the conditioned warning signal and the Invisible Fence were far more secure.\n\nA very useful technique for getting a prompt response to a\n\ndiscriminative stimulus is the limited hold. Let us say your subject has learned to offer a behavior in response to a cue, but there is usually some gap in time between presentation of the stimulus and the subject's response. You call folks for supper, and in due course they come; or you signal a halt, and your elephant gradually slows to a stop.\n\nIf you wish, by using a limited hold, you can actually shape this interval\n\ndownward until the behavior occurs as fast as is physically possible. You start by estimating the normal interval in which the behavior usually occurs; then you reinforce only behavior that occurs during that interval. Since living creatures are variable, some responses will fall outside the interval, and those no longer earn reinforcers. For example, if you serve supper a set time after calling, rather than waiting for stragglers, stragglers may get cold food or less choice of food.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 84, "chunk_index": 123, "id": "7ae31004-9cf2-4357-98c5-e4a0276ffba0", "word_count": 317, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 412 } }, { "page_content": "When you set a time interval like this and reinforce only within it, you will find that gradually all responses fall within that interval and no more are occurring outside it. Now you can tighten the screws again. Does it take fifteen minutes for the family to gather? Start serving twelve minutes after you call, or ten. How fast you tighten the screws is strictly a matter of judgment; as in any shaping procedure, you want to stay within the range where most of the behavior is occurring most of the time.\n\nAnimals and people have a very sharp time sense and will respond to limited-hold training with dramatic precision, but the trainer should not rely on guesswork. Use the clock, even a stopwatch, if you want limited-hold training to happen for you. On briefer behaviors, count to yourself, getting response time down from five beats to two, say. And of course, if you are working in a human situation, don't discuss what you are doing; you'll get nothing but arguments. Just do it and watch it work.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 85, "chunk_index": 124, "id": "341e0666-d1d0-46d6-8025-449d4573a5b7", "word_count": 178, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 231 } }, { "page_content": "At Sea Life Park in the 1960s one of our most effective show highlights was a group of six little spinner dolphins performing several kinds of aerial acrobatics in unison. They did various leaps and whirls in response to underwater sound cues. Initially, when the cue went on, the leaps or spins, or whatever was called for, occurred raggedly and sporadically across a fifteen- to twenty-second period. By using a stopwatch and establishing a limited hold, we were able to crank down the performance interval to two and a half seconds. Every animal knew that in order to get a fish it had to hit the air and perform the right leap or spin within two and a half seconds of the time the cue went on. As a result, the animals poised themselves attentively near the underwater loudspeaker. When the cue went on, the pool erupted in an explosion of whirling bodies in the air; it was quite spectacular. One day while sitting among the audience, I was amused to overhear a professorial type firmly informing his companions that the only way we could be getting that kind of response was by electric shock.\n\nLimited holds in real life are simply the amount of time you are willing\n\nto wait for a request or instruction to be carried out. Parents, bosses, and teachers who are consistent as to what they expect, once the specific time interval has been established, are usually regarded as fair and reliable to deal with, even if the limited hold - the \"window\" in time during which the behavior must occur in order to be reinforced - is quite brief.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 85, "chunk_index": 125, "id": "d6db8d6b-8647-41e0-b81b-c29c35cf5abb", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "A common flaw in stimulus-controlled behavior is anticipation: Once the cue has been learned, the subject is so eager to offer the behavior that it acts before the cue has actually been given. The expression describing this event comes from human anticipatory behavior in footraces: jumping the gun. People who anticipate cues or requests of others are generally perceived to be overeager, fawning, or obsequious; it's an irritating habit, not a virtue.\n\nDoberman pinschers sometimes run into trouble in obedience\n\ncompetitions. Although they are marvelously trainable dogs, they are so alert that they anticipate commands by the smallest of hints and often work before they have actually been told to, thus losing points. Anticipation is a common fault in calf-roping horses in rodeos. The cowboy and horse are supposed to wait behind a barrier for the calf to be given a head start, but the horse, excited, plunges off before the signal. The cowboy sometimes thinks he's got a real goer, but what he's really got is incompletely trained stimulus control. Another very common occurrence of anticipation is the \"offsides\" call in football. One player is so eager that he moves into the other team's territory before the signal to play is given, and the team must be penalized.\n\nOne way to cure anticipation is to use time-outs. If the subject\n\nanticipates the cue, and if that is undesirable, stop all activity. Give no cues and do nothing for one full minute. Every time the subject jumps the gun again, reset the clock. You are penalizing overeagerness by making it the cause of delay of the chance to work. This will effectively extinguish anticipating a command when rebuke, punishment, or repetition might have no effect at all.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 126, "id": "8094056f-6095-4cc1-a111-e0b5e660c0b2", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "Once a conditioned stimulus is established, an interesting thing happens: It becomes a reinforcer. Think of the recess bell in school. The recess bell is a signal meaning \"You're excused, go out and play\" And yet it is perceived as a reinforcer - children are glad to hear it, and if they could do something to make it ring sooner, they would. Now imagine a recess bell that did not\n\nring unless the classroom was quiet. Around recess time you would get some very quiet classrooms.\n\nA discriminative stimulus signals the opportunity for reinforcement, so it\n\nbecomes a desirable event. A desirable event is in itself a reinforcer. That means that you can actually reinforce a behavior by presenting the stimulus for another behavior. For example: If I reward my cat with a tidbit for coming to me when I say \"Come,\" and she learns this and does it, and if I then say \"Come\" and reinforce her for doing so each time I happen to see her sitting on the mantelpiece, it will soon happen that the cat, wanting a tidbit, will be found on the mantelpiece. (From her standpoint, remember, she is training me; she has found a way to get me-to say \"Come.\") Now suppose I teach her to jump to the mantel when I point to it, using either food or \"Come\" as the reinforcer; and then I point to the mantel whenever (a) I know she is hungry, and (b) she happens to roll on her back ...\n\nBehavior chains are very common. We often do long series of connected", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 86, "chunk_index": 127, "id": "cfa3e873-a765-425f-809c-5554892596a5", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "behaviors in real life, behaviors involving many known steps - carpentry and housework come to mind - and we expect our animals to do the same: \"Come,\" \"Sit,\" \"Down,\" \"Heel,\" and so on at length, with no obvious reinforcement. These long strings of behavior are behavior chains. Unlike simple long-duration behaviors - do this for an hour, do this a hundred times - they can be maintained comfortably, without deterioration or delayed starts, because each behavior is actually reinforced by the signal or opportunity to perform the next behavior, until the final reinforcement of a job completed.\n\nThere are several kinds of behavior chains. Homogeneous chains are chains in which the same behavior is repeated over and over again, like a horse going over a series of identical jumps in a row. Heterogeneous chains consist of various different behaviors that are reinforced only when the last behavior is completed. Most formal dog obedience competition exercises are heterogeneous chains. In one midlevel exercise, for example, the dog is required (1) to sit at the owner's side while the owner tosses a dumbbell beyond a jump, and then (2) on hearing the cue, go over the jump and (3) locate and pick up the dumbbell and (4) turn around and jump back over the jump while carrying the dumbbell and (5) sit in front of the owner until the\n\nowner takes the dumbbell and (6) return, on cue, to the sit-at-heel position. In competition these chains are always performed in the same sequence. They may, however, be trained as individual behaviors or as parts of the chain in other sequences.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 87, "chunk_index": 128, "id": "9e1f9217-f98c-4057-9661-2a5c5faea1cb", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "The pattern of the sequence is not essential to the nature of a chain.\n\nWhat is essential is that the behaviors in the chain follow each other without a time gap, that they are governed by cues, either from the trainer or from the environment, and that the primary reinforcer occurs at the end of the chain. The same dog, in a hunting or herding trial, might perform a long series of learned behaviors that might vary considerably in sequence from one day to the next depending on the environment. The whole sequence, however, would eventually be reinforced when the pheasant is retrieved or the sheep are in the pen.\n\nWhat makes behavior chains work is that each behavior has a history of reinforcement, and each behavior is under stimulus control, or on cue. Thus the learned cues, which are guarantees of future reinforcers, maintain behaviors within the chain. The cues can be given by a handler: The shepherd, with whistles, can tell the sheepdog exactly which way to turn, how fast to go, when to stop, and when to return. The cues can also be provided by the environment. Once the obedience competition dog has gone over the jump, the sight of the dumbbell is the cue to pick it up, the pickup is a cue to return to the owner, and the sight of the jump is the cue to jump back over it again. The owner need not provide verbal cues for those parts of the chain, but the cues are there.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 129, "id": "28196820-2b7c-4cd9-a5fd-5cd7291a810c", "word_count": 255, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 331 } }, { "page_content": "Sometimes the cue for the next behavior consists of the previous behavior. I recently moved to a new city and established both a new residence and a new place of business. I memorized the new addresses, phone numbers, fax numbers, and e-mails, but for many months I could not give you just a part of any one of those chains. Ask me for the office zip code and I was stumped, unless I said the name of the town and state first, then the zip code reeled out. Same thing for phone numbers: I had to say the area code to recite the rest of the number - an internally cued behavior chain.\n\nMany things we do every day such as taking a shower and getting\n\ndressed, are behavior chains of this nature. In teaching people with\n\ndevelopmental deficits, behavior analysts find that constructing carefully cued and reinforced behavior chains is extremely useful in giving people the skills they need to live independently or semi-independently.\n\nWe recognize that behavior chains are useful and powerful. What we\n\ndon't always recognize, however, is that what we see as misbehavior is often just a result of a chain breaking down. In teaching operant conditioning to dog trainers, I have heard many other explanations for misbehavior - the dog is stubborn; the dog is just trying to get back at me; the dog is stressed/in heat/just out of heat/and so on - when the incorrect events, in fact, are the result of the trainer's failure to build or maintain a behavior chain.\n\nBehavior chains break down and the behavior goes to pieces if there are", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 88, "chunk_index": 130, "id": "ff0b73d5-0522-46ae-9d40-77bf608ee7ee", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "unlearned behaviors in the chain, or behaviors that have not been brought under stimulus control. You can't reinforce the subject with a cue if it doesn't recognize the cue, or if it cannot accomplish what the cue indicates. This means that behavior chains should be trained backward. Start with the last behavior in the chain; make sure it has been learned and that the signal to begin it is recognized; then train the next-to-last one, and so on. For example, in memorizing a poem, a piece of music, a speech, or lines in a play, if you divide the task up into, say, five sections, and memorize the sections in reverse order, starting with the last, you will always be going from weakness to strength, from the stuff you're not quite sure of yet into the great, reinforcing, well-memorized stuff you know cold. Memorizing material in the order in which it is written and will be presented necessitates plowing continuously from familiar ground into the more difficult and unknown, a most unreinforcing experience. Treating memorization tasks as behavior chains not only shortens the needed memorizing time considerably, it also makes the whole experience more pleasant.\n\nBehavior chains are a peculiar concept. I've often been thwarted by them\n\nmyself, feeling that I'm pushing at the end of a string because I can't get an animal, or a child, or myself, to do some apparently simple series of things, until I realize that I'm trying to train a behavior chain from the wrong end. When you make a cake, the frosting goes on last; but if you want to teach a child to enjoy making a cake, you start by asking for \"help\" with the frosting.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 89, "chunk_index": 131, "id": "fc059e63-d3d5-4bab-9735-999258248e2a", "word_count": 284, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 369 } }, { "page_content": "An Example of a Behavior Chain: Teaching a Dog to Play Frisbee\n\nA New York friend who takes his golden retriever to Central Park each weekend to play Frisbee tells me the world seems to be full of people who have been stymied in trying to teach their dog this game. This is a pity, because playing Frisbee is an excellent way to exercise a big dog in the city. The Frisbee is a much slower and more erratic target than a simple ball, more like real prey perhaps, encouraging the dog into leaps and fancy catches that are fun for the owner, too. And playing Frisbee allows the owner to stand in one place and still run the dog's legs off.\n\nWhat people complain of is that their dog, when encouraged, will leap for the Frisbee and try to grab it as it is waved around, but when they throw it, the dog just stands there and watches it go. Or the dog chases and grabs it, but never brings it back.\n\nThere are two training problems in this game: The first is that the distance the dog goes after the Frisbee must be shaped. The second is that the game is a behavior chain: First the dog chases the Frisbee, then the dog catches the Frisbee, then the dog brings the Frisbee back for another throw. So each behavior must be trained separately, and the last behavior in the chain, retrieving, must be trained first.\n\nYou can teach retrieving over very short distances - indoors, even - with\n\nsomething easy to hold: an old sock, maybe. Hunting dogs almost do it spontaneously. Other breeds, such as bulldogs and boxers, may have to be carefully shaped to drop or give back the item, since they tend to prefer playing tug-of-war.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 90, "chunk_index": 132, "id": "95ae2786-9f22-45dd-b243-dbe7e684914d", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "When the dog will carry things to you on cue and give them up, you\n\nshape catching the Frisbee. First you get the dog all excited about the Frisbee, waving it around his face. You let him take it and have him give it back a few times, praising him madly for returning it, of course. Then you hold it in the air, let him have it when he leaps for it, and make him give it back. Then you toss it momentarily into the air and make a big fuss when he catches it. When he has the idea, you can start shaping the first behavior of the chain, the chase, by tossing the Frisbee up and out from you a few feet\n\nso the dog has to move off after it, to catch it. And now you are on your way to having a great Frisbee dog.\n\nAs the distance grows longer, the dog needs to learn to watch the Frisbee\n\nand place himself well for the catch. This takes practice, so it might take a couple of weekends to get the dog going out twenty-five feet or so. A fast dog will eventually be able to get under and catch a Frisbee as far as you can throw it - the star Frisbee dog Ashley Whippet could catch a Frisbee thrown the length of a football field. Dogs seem to relish their own expertise. A brilliant run or a terrific over-the-shoulder four-legs-off-the- ground catch that brings cheers from spectators also makes the dog sparkle all over. Nevertheless, after that catch the dog brings the Frisbee back because you trained that end of the chain first, and because that is what earns him the reinforcement, whether it is praise from you or another toss of the Frisbee.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 90, "chunk_index": 133, "id": "cca66475-21df-463b-8ce7-4f1286d00851", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "Of course you can see that if you are inattentive, so that he repeatedly gets neither the praise nor the toss, retrieving will deteriorate. Also, when the dog is getting too tired to play anymore, he will begin to falter on the retrieve by coming in slowly or dropping the Frisbee en route. This means it is high time to quit - you've both had your fun.\n\nWith most animals, you have to go to some lengths to establish stimulus\n\ncontrol at first, but often by the time you start bringing the third or fourth behavior under stimulus control, you will find that the animal seems to have generalized, or come to some conceptual understanding. After learning three or four cued behaviors, most subjects seem to recognize that certain events are signals, each signal means a different behavior, and acquiring reinforcers depends upon recognizing and responding correctly to signals. From then on, establishment of learned stimuli is easy. The subject already has the picture, and all it has to do is learn to identify new signals and associate them with the right behaviors. Since you, as trainer, are helping all you can by making that very clear, subsequent training can itself go much faster than the initial laborious steps.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 91, "chunk_index": 134, "id": "00c267ed-ba30-4c0b-98a1-4d72fe4fddfa", "word_count": 209, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 271 } }, { "page_content": "People generalize even faster. If you reward responses to even one learned command, people rapidly start responding to other commands to earn reinforcement. My friend Lee, a sixth-grade math teacher in one of the rough parts of New York City, always begins the school year by training his pupils to get rid of their chewing gum when he tells them to. No coercion. Just \"Okay, everybody, the first thing we're going to do is take our chewing gum out of our mouths. Good! Oops, wait, Doreen's still got some ... great! She took it out! Let's hear it for Doreen.\" He also instructs them, at the end of class, to resume chewing gum (using \"Class dismissed\" as the reinforcer). This might seem frivolous, even silly (though it does spare Lee the sight of masticating jaws, which he hates), but he finds that this first exercise awakens his class to the possibility of earning reinforcement by responding to his requests.\n\nOf course, like a good killer whale trainer, he uses a variety of\n\nreinforcers besides good grades and his own approval, including games, peer approval, early dismissal, even free gum. And of course at first he is willing to spend considerable time on gum that might be spent on fractions; his kids think he is weird about gum. But his kids also learn he means what he says, and that it pays off to do what he wants; so they become generally responsive and attentive.\n\nThe other teachers think Lee has some inborn knack for keeping his classroom quiet, and the principal thinks he's a \"good disciplinarian.\" Lee thinks kids are bright enough to generalize their responses, and he loves them for doing so. And for not chewing gum.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 135, "id": "4498d49d-4d44-4622-aa23-a5f970527fa0", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "Bringing behavior under stimulus control often gives rise to an interesting phenomenon I call the \"prelearning dip.\" You have shaped a behavior, and now you are bringing it under stimulus control. But just as the subject seems to be showing signs of responding to the stimulus, it suddenly not only stops responding to the stimulus, it stops responding altogether. It acts as if it has never heard of the thing you have shaped it to do.\n\nThis can be most discouraging for the trainer. Here you have cleverly taught a chicken to dance, and now you want it to dance only when you\n\nraise your right hand. The chicken looks at your hand, but it doesn't dance. Or it may stand still when you give the signal and then dance furiously when the signal is not present.\n\nIf you were to graph this sequence, you would see a gradually climbing\n\nline as the subject's percentage of correct responses (that is, on-cue responses) increases, followed by a sharp dip as correctness falls to zero (as you get a bunch of nonresponses or wrong responses). After that, however, if you persist, illumination strikes: Suddenly, from total failure, the subject leaps to responding very well indeed - you raise your hand, the chicken dances. The behavior is under stimulus control.\n\nWhat is going on, in my opinion, is that at first the subject is learning the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 92, "chunk_index": 136, "id": "1a4ab7ad-2bc0-4c57-9dc5-a0630a7355a5", "word_count": 233, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 302 } }, { "page_content": "cue without really being aware of doing so; the trainer sees only a heartening tendency toward slowly increasing correct performance. But then the subject notices the cue, and becomes aware that the signal has something to do with whether it gets reinforced. At that point it attends to the signal rather than offering the behavior. Of course it gives no response and goes unreinforced. When, by coincidence or the trainer's perseverance, it does once again offer the behavior in the presence of the cue, and it does get reinforced, the subject \"gets the picture.\" From then on, it \"knows\" what the cue means and responds correctly and with confidence.\n\nI realize I am throwing a lot of words around here, such as \"aware\" and\n\n\"knows,\" referring to what is going on in the subject's head, which most psychologists do not like to see applied to animals. Also, it's true that sometimes, in training an animal, the level of correct response gradually increases without any big events occurring; it would be hard to say at what point, if ever, the animal becomes consciously aware of what it is doing. But when a prelearning dip does occur, I think it is a sign of a shift in awareness, no matter what species is involved. I have seen in the data of University of Hawaii researcher Michael Walker clear-cut prelearning dips (and consequently some kind of awareness shift) during sensory- discrimination experiments with tuna, one of the more intelligent sorts of fishes, but after all, merely a fish.\n\nFor the subject, the prelearning dip can be a very frustrating time. We all", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 137, "id": "b11c5ec7-9a04-43ac-ae10-1b38909b9f3f", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "know how upsetting it is to struggle with something we half-understand (math concepts are a common example), knowing only that we don't really\n\nunderstand it. Often the subject feels so frustrated that it exhibits anger and aggression. The child bursts into tears and stabs the math book with a pencil. Dolphins breach repeatedly, slapping their bodies against the surface of the water with a crash. Horses switch their tails and want to kick. Dogs growl. Dr. Walker found that if, during the training of stimulus recognition, he let his tuna make mistakes and go unreinforced for more than forty-five seconds at a time, they got so upset, they jumped out of the tank.\n\nI have come to call this the \"prelearning temper tantrum.\" It seems to me\n\nthat the subject has the tantrum because what it has always thought to be true turns out suddenly not to be true; and there's no clear reason why ... yet. In humans prelearning temper tantrums often seem to take place when long- held beliefs are challenged and the subject knows deep inside that there is some truth to the new information. The recognition that what has been learned is not quite true seems to lead to the furious comeback, to excessive response, far beyond the disagreement, discussion, or querying that might offhand seem more probable and appropriate. Sometimes when talking about reinforcement at scientific meetings, I have provoked more hostility than I expected from individuals in other disciplines, ranging from cognitive psychologists to neurologists to an Episcopal bishop. I often suspect the angry words are actually prelearning symptoms.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 93, "chunk_index": 138, "id": "44b9d733-a638-469b-a116-9f0513b55cd7", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "I am always sorry to see the prelearning temper tantrum occur, even in a\n\ntuna, because with skill one should be able to lead the subject through the learning transition without arousing so much frustration. However, I have come to regard the prelearning tantrum as a strong indicator that real learning is actually finally about to take place. If you stand back and let it pass over, like a rainstorm, there may be rainbows on the other side.\n\nNobody needs to control or be controlled by cues and signals all the time; living creatures are not a bunch of machines. Most of the time there's no need to boss the world around. If the kids dawdle and you're not in a hurry, you can slow down yourself. Employees who are already working hard don't need orders and instructions. There's no point in surrounding ourselves or others with unnecessary rules and regulations; that only breeds\n\nresistance. In fact, responding to learned signals is an effort, and an effort that not only shouldn't be but can't be carried on continuously.\n\nStimulus control is obviously involved in producing cooperative children, obedient pets, reliable staff members, and so on. Very specific stimulus control is also necessary for many group activities, such as marching bands, dance troupes, and team sports. There is a certain amount of satisfaction in responding to elaborate sets of learned signals; even animals seem to enjoy it. I think this is because the signals become reinforcers, as in a behavior chain, so that once one has mastered all behaviors and signals, executing the responses brings a lot of reinforcement. In a word, it is fun. Hence the fun of participating in signal- controlled group activities, such as square dancing, playing football, and singing or playing music in groups.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 94, "chunk_index": 139, "id": "d9988399-08fa-40b3-a188-f45b222d3b81", "word_count": 297, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 386 } }, { "page_content": "When we see some example of beautifully executed stimulus-controlled\n\nbehavior - from the navy's acrobatic jet-plane team, the Blue Angels, to a classroom of well-mannered children - we often praise it in terms of discipline: \"They are really well disciplined\" or \"That teacher knows how to maintain discipline.\" The word discipline, however, contains implications of punishment, which, as we've seen, is quite unnecessary in the establishment of stimulus control.\n\nIn popular parlance the disciplinarian is the coach, parent, or trainer who demands perfection and punishes anything less, not the one who approaches perfection by rewarding improvement in that direction. And so it is that people who set out to establish \"discipline\" often tend to try to get stimulus control on a \"Do what I say or else ... \" basis. Since the subject has to misbehave or disobey to find out what the \"or else\" is, and since by then it's too late to undo the behavior, this ever-popular approach doesn't work very well.\n\nReal, elegant stimulus control; established through use of shaping and\n\nreinforcers, may produce something we interpret as discipline in the subject. The person who really has to become disciplined, however, is the trainer.\n\nYes, but where do you begin? What if you live or work among people who are already confirmed signal ignorers? Here is the Karen Pryor system\n\nKaren Pryor (Seeing a young visitor's wet bathing suit and towel on the living-room couch): Please take your wet things off the couch and put them in the dryer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 95, "chunk_index": 140, "id": "7d41bcd8-cf3b-41b1-81ee-00083e1303ca", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "K.P. (Physically goes to the young visitor and stands there, saying nothing.)\n\nK.P.: Please take your wet bathing suit off the couch and put it in the dryer. (N.B: Without adding \"Now!\" or \"Right this minute,\" or \"I mean it,\" or anything else. I am training this person to obey requests the first time, not to wait until the signal has been heightened with further details or threats.)\n\nY.V.: Well, jeez, if you're in such a hurry, why don't you do it yourself?\n\nK.P. (Pleasant smile, no comment. I am waiting to reinforce the behavior I want. Giving me an argument is not the behavior I want, so I ignore it.)\n\nY.V.: Okay, okay. (Gets up, goes to couch, picks up stuff, tosses it at the laundry room.)\n\nThe next time I have to ask the young visitor to do something, probably\n\nall I'll have to do is look at him to get action. By and by he will be one of the people in the household who do what I ask promptly, and for my part I will be fair - I'll do what he asks, if it's feasible, and I'll be careful not to ask him to do more than his share.\n\nKnowing how to get stimulus control without resorting to uproar and\n\ncoercion makes life a lot easier for everyone, trainer and subject alike. When my daughter, Gale, was a junior in high school, she directed a class play - something a student was chosen to do every year. She had a big cast", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 96, "chunk_index": 141, "id": "e3c2b931-bd71-4a15-9e45-cef691b1bcc7", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "of about twenty boys and girls. Everything went well, and the play was a great success. At the closing performance the drama coach told me that she'd been amazed to see that throughout rehearsals Gale never yelled at her cast. Student directors always yell, but Gale never yelled. \"Of course not,\" I said without thinking, \"she's an animal trainer.\" From the look on the teacher's face, I realized I'd said the wrong thing - her students were not animals! But of course all I meant was that Gale would know how to establish stimulus control without unnecessary escalation.\n\nPeople who have a disciplined understanding of stimulus control avoid giving needless instructions, unreasonable or incomprehensible commands, or orders that can't be obeyed. They try not to make requests they're not prepared to follow through on; you always know exactly what they expect. They don't fly off the handle at a poor response. They don't nag, scold, whine, coerce, beg, or threaten to get their way, because they don't need to. And when you ask them to do something, if they say yes, they do it. When you get a whole family, or household, or corporation working on the basis of real stimulus control - when all the people keep their agreements, say what they need, and do what they say - it is perfectly amazing how much gets done, how few orders ever need to be given, and how fast the trust builds up. Good stimulus control is nothing more than true communication - honest, fair communication. It is the most complex, difficult, and elegant aspect of training with positive reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 97, "chunk_index": 142, "id": "eddb568a-df48-479d-94dd-614f82df44e6", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "Now that you know all about establishing new behavior, how do you get\n\nrid of behavior you don't want that's already happening?\n\nPeople and animals are always doing things we wish they wouldn't do. The kids scream and fight in the car. The dog barks all night. Cats claw the furniture. Your roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place. A relative repeatedly makes quarrelsome, demanding phone calls. These are unwanted behaviors.\n\nThere are eight methods of getting rid of a behavior. Only eight. It doesn't matter if it's a long-term behavior such as the messy roommate or a short-term problem such as kids making too much noise in the car; anything you do about it is going to be a variation of one of the eight methods. (I am not concerned with complex constellations of behavioral problems such as arise in the psychotic person or the unpredictably dangerous dog; I am considering only single items of undesirable behavior.)\n\nMethod 1: \"Shoot the animal.\" (This definitely works. You will never have to deal with that particular behavior in that particular subject again.)\n\nMethod 2: Punishment. (Everybody's favorite, in spite of the fact that it almost never really works.)\n\nMethod 3: Negative reinforcement. (Removing something unpleasant when a desired behavior occurs.)\n\nMethod 4: Extinction; letting the behavior go away by itself.\n\nMethod 5: Train an incompatible behavior. (This method is especially useful for athletes and pet owners.)\n\nMethod 6: Put the behavior on cue. (Then you never give the cue. This is the dolphin trainer's most elegant method of getting rid of unwanted behavior.)", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 97, "chunk_index": 143, "id": "a05e537c-77b0-41e7-8b7c-d26d3312827e", "word_count": 263, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 341 } }, { "page_content": "Method 7: \"Shape the absence\"; reinforce anything and everything that is not the undesired behavior. (A kindly way to turn disagreeable relatives into agreeable relatives.)\n\nMethod 8: Change the motivation. (This is the fundamental and most kindly method of all.)\n\nYou can see that there are four \"bad fairies,\" or negative methods, and four \"good fairies,\" or methods using positive reinforcement. Each has its place. I'm going to describe the pros and cons of each method, one by one, together with some anecdotes of circumstances in which that method has worked. I'm also going to include under each method a repeated set of\n\nfamiliar problems (the noisy dog, the crabby spouse, and so on) with examples of how each problem could be solved by each particular method.\n\nI don't recommend all these solutions. For example, I think having a veterinarian \"debark\" your dog by cutting its vocal cords (Method 1) is a lousy solution to the problem of a dog that barks all night. I say that even though my uncle John Slater resorted to this solution, with my reluctant approval, when the neighbors complained about the barking of his sea lions. Of course, not many people keep sea lions in their swimming pool. Maybe it's the method of choice in that case.\n\nI cannot tell you which of the eight methods is the method of choice for\n\ngetting rid of your particular nuisance. You're the trainer; you have to decide.\n\nThis always works. You will definitely never have that behavioral problem with that subject again. This is in fact the worldwide and only recognized method of dealing with dogs that take to killing sheep.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 98, "chunk_index": 144, "id": "90a22639-9b10-4459-826a-7d229bf15092", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "Capital punishment is Method 1. Whatever the moral and other\n\nimplications of capital punishment may be, if you execute a murderer, he certainly will not be able to do any more murdering. Method 1 gets rid of the behavior by getting rid of the doer, temporarily or permanently.\n\nFiring an employee, divorcing a spouse, dealing with a messy roommate by changing roommates: all are Method 1. New problems with new people may come along, but the subject whose behavior you are specifically fed up with is gone, and the behavior goes away, too.\n\nMethod 1 is pretty severe, but it is sometimes appropriate when the offense is too major to endure and seems unlikely to be easily modified. For example, suppose your parent or your spouse (or your child) beats you. People sometimes deal with this by actually eliminating the person, and in extreme cases of self-defense this could be justifiable. Leaving home is another Method 1 solution, and more humane.\n\nI once had a cat that developed the peculiar habit of stealing into the kitchen in the night and urinating on the stove burners. The odor, when you\n\nunknowingly turned on one of those burners the next day, was incredibly offensive. The cat had free access to the outdoors, I never caught her at the behavior, and if you covered the burners she urinated on the covers. I could not decipher her motivation, and I finally took that cat to the pound to be put to sleep. Method 1.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 99, "chunk_index": 145, "id": "250f10ab-7e2d-4f73-9c83-f4e5f2f84fda", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "There are many simple and common versions of Method 1: sending a child to his or her room for disturbing adult conversation; tying up the dog so it can't chase cars; putting people in prison for varying lengths of time. We tend to think of these things as punishment (Method 2), and they may or may not be seen as punishments by the subjects, but these are Method 1 techniques. Fundamentally they eliminate the behavior by restraining the subject physically from the performance, or by eliminating the presence of the subject.\n\nThe vital thing to understand about Method 1 is that it teaches the subject nothing. Preventing the subject from exhibiting the behavior - by restraint, confinement, divorce, electrocution - does not teach the subject much about the behavior. It seems reasonable that a man sent to prison for theft will think twice before he steals again, but we know that very often that is far from the case; all we can be sure of is that he cannot rip off your TV while he is locked up.\n\nBehavior is not necessarily reasonable. If it has already been established as a way to earn reinforcement, and if the motivation and circumstances that elicit the behavior are present, the behavior is likely to manifest itself again.\n\nWhile the subject is under restraint, no relearning about the behavior goes on; you cannot modify behavior that is not occurring. The child shut up in his or her room may be learning something (to resent and fear you, perhaps) but not how to engage in polite social conversation. Let that dog off the rope, and it will promptly chase cars again.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 100, "chunk_index": 146, "id": "0b39e447-ab9d-4898-8dd5-af21a4fb3471", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Method 1 has its place. It is often the most practical solution, and it is not necessarily cruel. We often use some kind of temporary incarceration when we don't have time to train or supervise a subject. We put babies in swings or baby seats to amuse themselves briefly and for short periods most babies have no objections. Now that most people keep their pet dogs indoors all the time, confining puppies to shipping boxes called crates has\n\nbecome a standard aid to housebreaking. Dogs like having a cozy, private place to sleep in. Most dogs quickly regard their crate as home and will retire to it voluntarily during the day.\n\nEven small puppies prefer not to soil their sleeping quarters. So confinement when you can't watch the puppy reduces the chance of accidents and usually means that the puppy is ready for an educational and reinforced trip to the yard to relieve itself, when you do take it out. For long confinements the puppy is commonly put in a wire exercise pen with newspaper on the floor and the crate, door ajar, in one corner. Thus it has room to romp around and play, it can leave the crate if it needs to piddle, it's easily cleaned up after, and at least it's not making spots on the rug in the owner's absence.\n\nMethod 1 solves the problem in a way but may or may not be the\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place.\n\nShoot the animal. Sell it. Have its vocal cords cut by the vet. Make them walk home. Make them take the bus. Get someone else to drive the car pool.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 100, "chunk_index": 147, "id": "a2e62753-4485-415b-8426-33851ec63e67", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "Spouse habitually comes home in a bad mood. Faulty tennis swing. Shirking or lazy employee.\n\nStop playing tennis. Fire him or her. Never write any thank-you notes. Then maybe people will stop giving you presents. Keep the cat outdoors or get rid of it.\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad. An adult offspring who you think should be self-sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nThis is humanity's favorite method. When behavior goes wrong, we\n\nthink first of punishment. Scold the child, spank the dog, dock the paycheck, fine the company, torture the dissident, invade the country. But punishment is a clumsy way of modifying behavior. In fact, much of the time punishment doesn't work at all.\n\nBefore considering what punishment can and cannot do, let us note what\n\nhappens when we try it and it doesn't work. Suppose we have punished a child, or a dog, or an employee for some behavior, and the behavior occurs again. Do we say, \"Hmm, punishment isn't working; let's try something else\"? No. We escalate the punishment. If scolding doesn't work, try a slap. If your kid has a bad report card, take away his bike. If the next report card is also bad, take away his skateboard, too. Your employees are goofing off? Threaten them. Doesn't work? Dock their pay. Still no results? Suspend them, fire them, call out the National Guard. Whippings do not change the heretic's behavior? Maybe thumbscrews will work, or the rack.\n\nThe hideous thing about the escalation of punishment is that there is absolutely no end to it. The search for a punishment so bad that \"maybe this one will work\" is not a concern of apes or elephants, but it has preoccupied humans since history began and probably before.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 101, "chunk_index": 148, "id": "53849b1a-1678-42a0-a7c9-a40a64b58292", "word_count": 299, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 388 } }, { "page_content": "One reason punishment doesn't usually work is that it does not coincide\n\nwith the undesirable behavior; it occurs afterward, and sometimes, as in courts of law, long afterward. The subject therefore may not connect the punishment to his or her previous deeds; animals never do, and people often fail to. If a finger fell off every time someone stole something, or if cars burst into flames when they were parked illegally, I expect stolen property and parking tickets would be nearly nonexistent.\n\nIn Method 2, as in Method 1, the subject learns nothing. While prompt punishment may stop an ongoing behavior, it does not cause any particular improvement to occur. Punishment does not teach a child how to achieve a better report card. The most the punisher can hope for is that the child's motivation will change: The child will try to alter future behavior in order to avoid future punishment.\n\nLearning to alter behavior in the future in order to avoid consequences in\n\nthe future is more than most animals can understand. If a man catches his bird dog and beats it because it has been chasing rabbits, the dog has no way of knowing which particular recent activity is being reprimanded. It may become more fearful of the owner, which might allow the owner, from then on, to call it off when it chases rabbits, or might cause the dog to run away even faster when called. The beating in itself will not affect rabbit chasing in itself.\n\nCats, incidentally, seem particularly dense about associating their punishments with their crimes. Like birds, they merely become frightened when threatened, and they learn nothing, which is why people think cats are difficult to train. They really can't be trained by punitive methods, but they're a snap to train with positive reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 102, "chunk_index": 149, "id": "19929497-0c39-4d32-88ef-1a0d8e7f24c7", "word_count": 301, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 391 } }, { "page_content": "While punishment or the threat of it doesn't help the subject learn how to modify the behavior involved, what the subject does learn - especially if the behavior is so strongly motivated that the subject needs to continue it (stealing food when hungry, being one of the gang during adolescence) - is to try not to get caught. Evasiveness increases rapidly under a punishment regimen - a sad situation in a family setting and not so great in society at large either. Also, repeated or severe punishment has some very nasty side effects: fear, anger, resentment, resistance, even hate in the punished one and sometimes in the punisher, too. These mental states are not conducive to learning (unless you want the subject to learn fear, anger, and hatred, emotions that are sometimes deliberately established in the training of terrorists).\n\nOne reason we keep thinking punishment works is that sometimes - if the subject understands which action is being punished, if the motivation for doing the behavior is small, if the fear of future punishment is large, and finally, if the subject can control the behavior in the first place (punishment\n\ndoesn't cure bed-wetting, for example) - the punished behavior stops. A child who is scolded severely the first time he or she crayons on the wall may very well stop defacing the house. A citizen who cheats on his income tax and gets fined for it may not try it again.\n\nPunishment has the best chance of halting a behavior in its tracks if the behavior is caught early, so that it has not become an established habit, and if punishment itself is a novel experience for the subject, a shock to which the person or animal has not become hardened.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 103, "chunk_index": 150, "id": "7223be19-40be-4d4f-bf5f-dcb533cf916a", "word_count": 291, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 378 } }, { "page_content": "My parents punished me exactly twice in my whole upbringing (and then only with scoldings), once at age six for pilfering, and once at age fifteen for skipping school and causing everyone to think I'd been abducted. The extreme rarity of the punishment experience contributed vastly to the effect. Both behaviors stopped instantly.\n\nIf you are going to use punishment, you may want to arrange things so that the subject sees the aversive as a consequence of its own acts, and not as something associated with you. Suppose you have a large hairy dog that likes to sleep on the couch, and you don't want it doing that. Punishment - scolding and so on - may keep the dog off the couch when you are there, but not when you are absent. One old training trick is to set a few small mousetraps and put them on the couch: punishment in absentia. Then, when the dog jumps up, the mousetraps go off, startling and perhaps pinching him. The mousetraps punish jumping on the couch. This event also negatively reinforces, or strengthens, the behavior of staying on the floor in order to avoid mousetraps. The dog's own action triggered the aversive event, and one bad experience can be sufficient to eliminate the behavior of sneaking onto the couch. I hasten to add that this is likely to work with some dogs but not others. One boxer owner reported that his dog, faced with mousetraps for the second time, dragged a blanket down from the back of the couch onto the mousetraps, set off the traps, and then lay on the blanket on the couch.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 104, "chunk_index": 151, "id": "97a14f96-af99-4954-b7a1-59d4e4694acf", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "When a punishment does effectively halt a behavior, that sequence of events is very reinforcing for the punisher. The punisher tends then to sally forth confidently to punish again. It always surprises me to witness the great faith that arises, in some individuals, in the effectiveness of punishment. I have seen it exhibited and defended by disciplinarian schoolteachers,\n\nbullying athletic coaches, domineering bosses, and well-intentioned parents. Their own punishing behavior may be maintained by a meager handful of successes in a morass of not-so-good results and can persist despite logical evidence to the contrary - despite the presence of other teachers in the same school, other coaches, heads of other businesses, other generals, presidents, or parents who can be seen to be getting results that are just as good or better without using punishment at all.\n\nPunishment often constitutes revenge. The punisher may not really care\n\nwhether the victim's behavior changes or not; he or she is just getting revenge, sometimes not against the recipient but against society at large. Think of obdurate clerks who, with concealed glee, delay or prevent you from getting your license, your loan, or your library pass over some minor technicality; you get punished and they get even.\n\nPunishing is also reinforcing for the punisher because it demonstrates and helps to maintain dominance. Until the day when a boy is big enough to hit his brutal father back, the father feels dominant and is in truth the dominant one. This in fact may be the main motivation behind our human tendency to punish: establishing and maintaining dominance. The punisher may be primarily interested not in behavior but in being proved to be of higher status.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 104, "chunk_index": 152, "id": "c9207883-917f-4b2c-ad4e-2bc573652304", "word_count": 280, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 364 } }, { "page_content": "Dominance hierarchies and dominance disputes and testing are a fundamental characteristic of all social groups, from flocks of geese to human governments. But perhaps only we humans learn to use punishment primarily to gain for ourselves the reward of being dominant. So think, when you are tempted to punish: Do you want the dog, the child, the spouse, the employee to alter a given behavior? In that case, it's a training problem, and you need to be aware of the weaknesses of punishment as a training device. Or do you really want revenge? In that case you should seek more wholesome reinforcers for yourself.\n\nOr perhaps you really want the dog, the child, the spouse, the employee,\n\nthe neighboring nation, and so on to stop disobeying you. In whatever manifestation, do you want the subject to stop going against your superior will and judgment? In that case it's a dominance dispute, and you're on your own.\n\nGuilt and shame are forms of self-inflicted punishment. Almost no sensation is more disagreeable than the clammy hand of guilt closing around one's heart; it is a punisher that only the human race could have invented. Some animals - dogs, certainly - can show embarrassment. But none, I think, waste time suffering from guilt over actions in the past.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 105, "chunk_index": 153, "id": "7661416b-a0c5-42ed-9bb9-48351ad9312e", "word_count": 215, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 279 } }, { "page_content": "The amount of guilt we deal out to ourselves varies hugely One person can feel relaxed and justified after committing a major crime while another feels guilty over chewing a stick of gum. Many people do not experience guilt or shame in their daily lives, not because they are perfect, nor because they are unfeeling hedonists, but because they respond to their own behavior in alternative ways. If they do something that bothers them in retrospect, then they don't do it again. Others make the same mistake over and over - acting the fool at a party, saying unforgivable words to a loved one - in spite of invariably feeling hellishly guilty the next day\n\nOne would think that fear of feeling guilty would act as a deterrent, but usually at the moment we are doing the deed that will later cause guilt, we are feeling impeccably fearless. As a way of changing behavior, guilt ranks right along with flogging or any other form of delayed punishment - it is not very effective.\n\nTherefore, if you are a person who punishes yourself in this way (and most of us are, having been taught to do so in early childhood), you should recognize that it is a Method 2 solution and not necessarily something you deserve. You might have good reasons to want to get rid of the behavior that makes you feel guilty, but you might then have much better luck with some method or combination of methods other than self-punishment.\n\nThese are seldom effective and lose effect with repetition but are\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 154, "id": "cd321843-35b1-4365-9cce-f56f6fc188e4", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "APPROACH Yell and scold. Threaten to confiscate and throw away the clothes, or do so.\n\nGo out and hit him or spray him with the hose when he barks. (N.B.: Dog will be so glad to see you, he'll probably \"forgive\" the punishment.) Yell at them. Threaten. Turn around and smack them. Start a fight. Burn the dinner. Sulk, scold, cry. Curse, get mad, criticize yourself every time you do it wrong. Scold and criticize, preferably in front of others. Threaten to dock pay, or do so. Punish yourself by postponing the task and feeling guilty at the same time.\n\nCat gets on the kitchen table. Strike it and/or chase it out of the kitchen. Obtain the driver's number, complain to the company, and try to get him or her transferred, reprimanded, or fired.\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad.\n\nAn adult offspring who you think should be self-sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nLet the adult child move in but make life miserable for him or her.\n\nA negative reinforcer is any unpleasant event or stimulus, no matter how\n\nmild, that can be halted or avoided by changing one's behavior. A cow in a field with an electrified fence touches her nose to the fence, feels a shock, and pulls back, which stops the shock. She learns to avoid the shock by not touching the fence. While touching the fence has been punished, the behavior of avoiding the fence has been reinforced, by a negative rather than positive reinforcer.\n\nLife abounds in negative reinforcers. We shift position when a chair gets\n\nuncomfortable. We know enough to come in out of the rain. Some people", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 106, "chunk_index": 155, "id": "188e1834-db76-4a75-94bd-5446c45762b0", "word_count": 282, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 366 } }, { "page_content": "find the smell of garlic appetizing, and others find it offensive. The stimulus becomes a negative reinforcer only if it is perceived as unpleasant by the recipient and if the behavior is modified - shifting seats on the bus, away from a garlic-eater, say - to remove the unpleasantness.\n\nAs we saw in Chapter 1, almost all traditional animal training consists of\n\nthe applied use of negative reinforcers. The horse learns to turn left when the left rein is pulled, because by doing so it can ameliorate the tugging feeling in the left corner of its mouth. Elephants, oxen, camels, and other beasts of burden learn to move forward, halt, pull loads, and so on to avoid the tug of a halter, the poke or blow of a prod, goad, or whip.\n\nNegative reinforcement can be used to shape behavior. As with positive\n\nreinforcement, the reinforcer must be contingent upon the behavior; one must cease \"prodding\" when the response is correct. Unfortunately, because the prodding, in whatever form, results in a change in behavior, the behavior of the person doing the prodding may be positively reinforced, so that, as with punishing, the tendency to lay on with the aversives increases. Naggers, for example, may eventually get results, and this is reinforcing to the nagger. So nagging escalates, sometimes so much that the nagger goes on nagging whether the desired response has occurred or not. Think of the mother in Portnoy's Complaint who complains, while her son is visiting, \"We never see you!\"\n\nPositive and negative reinforcement contingencies are often reciprocal.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 156, "id": "e765de9d-ac93-4199-8d6d-26b20b5f6f08", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "Behaviorist Myrna Libby, Ph.D., gave me this example: A child is tantruming in the store for candy. The parent gives in and lets the child have a candy bar. The tantruming is positively reinforced by the candy, but the more powerful event is that the parent is negatively reinforced for giving in, since the public tantrum, so aversive and embarrassing for the parent, actually stopped.\n\nTantrums can become part of a vicious circle. The parent will go to all kinds of lengths - soothing, protesting, arguing, and reinforcing - to stop a tantrum. So the tantrums escalate, and because they do, the parents inadvertently reinforcing efforts escalate as well. I know of one household in which a child threw a full-blown, fifteen- or twenty-minute screaming tantrum nearly every night, just at dinnertime. Both the child's behavior and the parents' anxious responses were so strongly maintained, by interlocking\n\npositive and negative reinforcements, that the behavior continued for over three years.\n\nPeople use spontaneous negative reinforcers on each other all the time:\n\nthe warning glance, the frown, the disapproving remark. Some children's lives, and some spouses' lives too, are filled with constant daily effort to behave in such a way as to avoid disapproval. The overpunished child may become hostile, evasive, and a punisher himself in adulthood. In contrast, the child that grows up striving not to please, exactly, but to bring a halt, if only temporarily, to chronic disapproval, may become timid, self-doubting, and anxious in adult life. A therapist specializing in phobic patients tells me that her clients, with their crippling irrational fears of crowds or elevators, were all raised on a steady diet of negative reinforcement.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 108, "chunk_index": 157, "id": "0e9cbad9-a11b-401c-b4f5-0841e8e845f3", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "Since one can use negative reinforcement effectively to shape improved\n\nbehavior, as with punishment, the experience can reinforce the trainer's willingness to use coercion. As Murray Sidman, Ph.D., has observed to me, \"A few successful applications of even mild negative reinforcement may turn a trainer into an invariable user of negative reinforcement.\"\n\nHowever, because negative reinforcers are aversive - something the subject wants to avoid - every instance of their use contains a punisher. Pull on the left rein, and you are punishing going straight ahead, as well as negatively reinforcing turning to the left when that occurs. The traditional trainer typically doesn't think of his negative reinforcers - his reins or choke chains or verbal corrections - as punishment. After all, trainers explain, these tools are gently used, on the whole: if the trainer really wanted to punish, there are much more severe corrections available. And, the argument typically continues, if you use a lot of praise and positive reinforcers as well, no harm is done in the long run.\n\nHowever, the strength of the aversive can only be judged by the recipient. What the trainer may consider to be mild may be seen by the trainee as blisteringly severe. Furthermore, since all negative reinforcement, by definition, includes a punisher, making a practice of using negative reinforcement puts you at risk for all the unpredictable fallout of punishment: avoidance, secrecy, fear, confusion, resistance, passivity, and reduced initiative, as well as spillover associations, in which anything that", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 109, "chunk_index": 158, "id": "e7f152ae-cf21-4c34-be1f-40a580a54ac0", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "happens to be around, including the training environment and the trainer, becomes distasteful or disliked, something to be avoided or even fled from.\n\nBecause training with negative reinforcers or correction is the traditional\n\nand conventional system, the resulting fallout is extraordinarily obvious once you look for it. I have attended national-level dog obedience competitions and been startled by the glum faces, unwagged tails, and cautious, inhibited movements of many of the top-level performance dogs. Go to any riding academy or horseback event, and ask yourself if the horses look cheerful. Most people, even professional equestrians, and even those who consider themselves to be modern and humane trainers, don't know what a happy-eyed horse looks like. They've never seen one. Negative reinforcers can be benign, as illustrated earlier in the matter of the shy llama. My daughter's dog is affectionate and likes to lick the baby's face. The baby, a year old, likes the dog but doesn't like having his face washed. He has learned that if he puts his hands out and squawks, the dog will stop. Now when the dog approaches, tail wagging, the baby produces his baby version of \"No way!\" and the lick is forestalled. The baby is quite happy with his new behavior and sometimes tries it (less effectively) on parents and siblings.\n\nBut on the whole, babies are one class of organisms for which negative", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 159, "id": "c106f6ca-c030-4e36-aa5b-4687a7d3d220", "word_count": 230, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 299 } }, { "page_content": "reinforcement is an inappropriate teaching mechanism. It's difficult to discourage a baby from doing what she needs and wants to do by arranging aversive contingencies. Babies don't understand time-outs and scoldings. The crawler reaching for the bric-a-brac on Grandma's coffee table is most likely to ignore the warning \"No!\" and to wail - but keep right on reaching - if her hands are smacked. It's far better to use Method 8 (Change the motivation) by putting the objects out of reach, or Method 5 (Train an incompatible behavior) by giving the baby something else to play with - or both. Babies are not programmed to learn easily to avoid aversives, though they can learn rapidly through positive reinforcement. One might say that babies are born to please, not to obey.\n\nBaby animals also tend to learn more easily through positive\n\nreinforcement and to be bewildered and frightened by punishment and negative reinforcers. Conventional dog trainers usually do not advise formal obedience training until a dog is six months of age. The reason they give is\n\nthat the puppy is too young to learn; but the real problem is that formal training is generally aversive, and the puppy is too young to learn that particular way. With praise and petting and food, you can teach a puppy almost anything, starting even before weaning, but put a choke chain on it and try to force it to heel, sit, or stay, and you will cow and frighten the puppy before you can teach it much.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 110, "chunk_index": 160, "id": "20b3942d-145e-42b3-972c-a6318dbe2e4a", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "There is another class of subjects that are singularly unamenable to negative reinforcement: wild animals. Anyone who has ever kept a wild pet - an ocelot, a wolf, a raccoon, an otter - knows that they don't take orders. It is extraordinarily difficult, for example, to teach a wolf to walk on a leash, even if you have raised it from puppyhood and it is quite tame. If you pull, it pulls back automatically, and if you are too insistent and pull too hard, the wolf, no matter how calm and sociable it usually is, panics and tries to escape.\n\nPut a tame pet otter on a leash, and either you go where the otter wants to go, or it fights the leash with all its might. There seems to be no middle ground where a little tug might be used to shape compliance.\n\nDolphins are the same. For all their vaunted trainability, they either resist\n\nor flee any kind of force. Push a dolphin, and it pushes back. Try to herd dolphins from one tank to another with nets; if they feel crowded, bold individuals will charge the net and timid ones will sink to the tank bottom in helpless fear. You have to shape the behavior, with positive reinforcers, of moving quietly ahead of the net; and even if you have done that, almost any netting operation requires one alert human standing by, ready to jump into the water and disentangle an animal that has rushed the net before it drowns.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 111, "chunk_index": 161, "id": "528da16f-ea8e-40f0-b249-d1be0da44288", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "Psychologist Harry Frank suggests that this resistance to negative reinforcement is a principal difference between wild and domesticated animals. All domesticated animals are susceptible to negative reinforcement - they can be herded, led, shooed, or generally pushed around. We humans, intentionally or accidentally, have selectively bred this characteristic into them. After all, the cow that cannot be herded or shooed, that like a wolf or dolphin either resists the aversive stimulus or panics and flees, is the cow that's going to end up outside the kraal at night and get eaten by lions; or, as\n\na nuisance, it will be the cow most likely to be killed and eaten by the people. Her genes won't stay in the gene pool.\n\nObedience, whether expressed as a willingness to knuckle under or as a\n\nhesitation in the fight-or-flight reaction in which mild negative reinforcement may be used to coerce learning, is built into all of our domestic animals - with one exception: the cat. It is, for example, really hard to teach a cat to walk on a leash; go to a cat show, and you will see that the professionals don't even bother to try - cats are carried or cats are caged, but they are not walked around on leashes.\n\nHarry Frank suggests that this is because the cat is not a true domestic animal and therefore lacks that susceptibility to negative reinforcement. It may, rather, be a commensal, an animal that, like the rat and the cockroach, shares our abodes to its benefit. More probably the cat is a symbiote, an animal that trades favors with us for mutual benefit - food, shelter, and patting from us; mouse catching, entertainment, and purring from the cat. Work and obedience, however, no. Which may explain why some people don't like cats: They fear the uncontrollability.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 111, "chunk_index": 162, "id": "3e9a5c45-c05e-4b55-8e28-33d586898b68", "word_count": 304, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 395 } }, { "page_content": "For all you cat haters out there, there is one punisher that does work with\n\ncats and can be used as a negative reinforcer: spraying water at the cat's face. Once at a dinner party where I was wearing a new black wool dress, my hostess's white angora cat repeatedly jumped into my lap. The hostess thought that was cute, but I did not want white cat hairs on my dress. When she was not looking, I dipped my fingers into my wineglass and spritzed the cat in the face. It left at once and never came back: a fine and useful negative reinforcer.\n\nNegative reinforcement may be effective and the method of choice in\n\nsome situations. The car device described here works very well, especially if the children are too tired and cross to be amenable to alternatives such as playing games and singing songs (Method 5).\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the\n\nAPPROACH Disconnect the TV or withhold dinner until the laundry is picked up. (Cease negative reinforcer\n\nCat gets on the kitchen table. Surly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad. An adult offspring who you think should be self-sufficient wants", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 112, "chunk_index": 163, "id": "91178997-3b5b-4424-9423-509268535ddf", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "when compliance is obtained; reinforce even halfhearted efforts at first.) Shine a strong light on doghouse when dog barks. Turn the light off when the dog stops barking. When the decibel level meets the pain threshold, pull over and stop the car. Read a book. Ignore arguing about stopping; that's noise, too. Drive on when silence reigns. Turn your back or leave the room briefly when the tone of his or her voice is disagreeable. Return and give your attention at once when the voice is silent or normal. Have a coach or bystander verbally correct the bad swing (\"Ah-ah-ah,\" or \"No!\") in midswing each time you do it. Develop another swing that shuts off the correction. Tighten supervision and rebuke each instance in which work falls below par. Negative reinforcement comes automatically from friends and loved ones. Aunt Alice will let you know how worried she is that you never got the scarf, and your family will let you know that you ought to write Aunt Alice. The information will be delivered with definite aversive overtones. Put cellophane tape, sticky side up, on the kitchen table. Stand in the door or near the driver so he can't drive on until you move. Move when he stops talking, even for an instant. Let the adult child come back, but charge him or her exactly what you would charge a stranger for rent, food, and any additional services such as\n\nlaundry or babysitting. Make it worthwhile financially to move on.\n\nIf you have trained a rat to press a lever repeatedly for a food reward and", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 113, "chunk_index": 164, "id": "e18eef24-76d6-44b3-8054-0b16fdeb7e15", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "then you shut off the food-delivering machine, the rat will press the lever a lot at first, then less and less, until it finally gives up. The behavior is \"extinguished.\"\n\nExtinction is a term from the psychology laboratories. It refers to the extinction not of an animal but of a behavior, a behavior I that dies down by itself for lack of reinforcement, like a burnt-out candle.\n\nBehavior that produces no results - not good results or bad results, just no results - will probably extinguish. This does not always mean you can ignore a behavior and it will go away. The behavior of ignoring a human being is a result in itself, being such an unsocial thing to do. One cannot always count on extinguishing behavior in another by ignoring it.\n\nIf a behavior has been reinforced by attention, ignoring it may work. I\n\nonce watched Thomas Schippers, the symphony conductor, running a rehearsal of the New York Philharmonic. A ferocious conductor - but a ferocious orchestra, too. As Schippers walked to the podium, the orchestra was being naughty; a woodwind warbled \"I wish I was in Dixie,\" and a violin made an incredibly human \"Oh-oh.\" Schippers ignored the foolery, and it quickly extinguished.\n\nExtinction in human interactions best applies, it seems to me, to verbal behavior - whining, quarreling, teasing, bullying. If these kinds of behavior do not produce results, do not get a rise out of you, they extinguish. Keep in mind that getting someone's goat can be positively reinforcing. The brother who gets his little sister into a fit of rage by teasing her about her hairdo is being reinforced. When you flame up at someone else in the office who is one-upping you, he or she has won.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 114, "chunk_index": 165, "id": "ee43fd85-fe09-441a-b990-ca426996ab48", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "We often accidentally reinforce the behavior we wish would extinguish.\n\nWhining, in children, is a parent-trained behavior. Any child who is tired, hungry, and uncomfortable may whine, like a puppy. The world-class whiner, however, is the child whose parents are such masters of self-control\n\nthat they can withstand huge amounts of whining before they finally crack and say, \"All right, I'll get you the damned ice cream cone; now will you please shut up?\" We forget, or do not understand, that the eventual reinforcement maintains the behavior; and the variability of the elapsed time to reinforcement makes for a very durable behavior. Once I saw a pretty little girl of about six in Bloomingdale's bring her mother, her grandmother, and the whole Bloomingdale's linen department to a complete standstill with a virtuoso display of \"But you said, you promised, I don't wanna\" and so forth. As well as I could figure out, the child was tired-of shopping, perhaps reasonably so. Or she was just tired, period. She wanted to leave, and she had learned to get what she wanted by whining, which eventually was always reinforced.\n\nWhat do you do if you happen to be stuck for an afternoon with", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 114, "chunk_index": 166, "id": "efdbd42f-18df-4142-a935-22ac1297ab7b", "word_count": 200, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 260 } }, { "page_content": "someone else's whiny child? Here's what I do. The minute the protesting or complaining begins in that telltale nasal tone, I inform the child that whining doesn't work with me. (This usually gives him or her food for thought, since they don't think of it as whining; they think of it as logical or even brilliant persuasion.) When they stop whining, I make haste to reinforce, with praise or a hug. If the child forgets and starts whining again, I can usually stop the behavior with a raised eyebrow or a quelling glance. Actually, whiners are often quite intelligent and make pleasant, even interesting companions when they give up their game and the whining is extinguished.\n\nOne of the problems of dealing with behavior that is expressed in words\n\nis that we humans have inordinate respect for our language. Words are almost magical. In a situation of being bullied or teased, or when one is being whined at, or perhaps most obviously in a marital fight, we tend to deal with the words said, not with the behavior. \"But you promised\" evokes the response \"No, I did not promise,\" or \"I know, but I have to go to Chicago tomorrow, so I can't do what I said; can't you understand that?\" and so on forever.\n\nWe need to separate the words being said from the behavior. When a husband and wife are fighting, for example, fighting is what is going on. Yet the topic of the fight often steals the show. You can argue each point into the ground, and you can be dead right about the words that are being said\n\n(therapists have to listen to miles of replays of such tapes), but you still are not dealing with the behavior - fighting.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 115, "chunk_index": 167, "id": "c9709ba9-1349-4a41-a70b-b0f49afa3db1", "word_count": 294, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 382 } }, { "page_content": "In addition to being too easily sucked into the words of a conflict (\"He said I'm a coward - I am not a coward\"), we often fail to notice the very fact that we are reinforcing it. And not just by letting ourselves be trapped into anger. Take the husband who always comes home in a bad mood. The crabbier he is, the faster his wife rushes about to try to please him, right? What is she actually reinforcing?\n\nA cheerful demeanor, no speeding up of dinner, and an absence of hand\n\nwringing and upset on the spouse's part can do a lot to eliminate the usefulness to the crabby one of any display of moodiness or temper. On the other hand, withdrawing into icy silence or screaming back or punishing would all be results and consequently might be reinforcing.\n\nBy ignoring the behavior without ignoring the person, you can arrange for many disagreeable displays to extinguish by themselves because there is no result, good or bad. The behavior has become unproductive. Hostility requires a huge amount of energy, and if it doesn't work it is usually quickly abandoned.\n\nMany behaviors are temporarily limited in themselves. When children or", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 116, "chunk_index": 168, "id": "c204781c-ff7b-4cd3-a9b8-b88a95914b10", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "dogs or horses are first let out-of-doors after a period of confinement and inactivity, they crave to run and play. If you try to control this, you may have to exert quite a lot of effort. It's often easier just to let them run around for a while, until the urge for action is satiated, before you ask for disciplined behavior or start to train them. Horse trainers call this \"getting the bugs out.\" A wise horse trainer may turn a young horse loose in the ring for a few minutes, to kick and buck and run around, before saddling it and making it get to work. Calisthenics before drill team or football practice serve somewhat the same purpose. In addition to getting the muscles moving, which reduces the chance of strains and injuries, these \"gross motor activities\" sop up some of the loose energy, so that romping and horseplay extinguish and the troops or players can become more attentive to the training process.\n\nHabituation is a way to eliminate unconditioned responses. If a subject is", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 116, "chunk_index": 169, "id": "f9a50662-b83f-493a-ba9e-0b83ca84de18", "word_count": 176, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 228 } }, { "page_content": "exposed to an aversive stimulus that it cannot escape or avoid, and which nothing it does has any effect on, eventually its avoidance responses will extinguish. It will stop reacting to the stimulus, pay no attention, and apparently become unaware of it. This is called habituation. In my New York apartment I found the street noise unbearable at first, but eventually, like most New Yorkers, I learned to sleep through the sirens, yelling, garbage trucks, even car crashes. I became habituated. Police horses are sometimes trained by subjecting them to all kinds of harmless but alarming events, such as opening umbrellas, flapping papers, being tapped all over with rattling tin cans, and so on. The horses become so habituated to startling sights and sounds that they remain unflappable no matter what events the city streets have to offer.\n\nMethod 4 is not useful for getting rid of well-learned, self-rewarding behavior patterns. It is good, however, for whining, sulking, or teasing. Even small children can learn - and are gratified to discover - that they can stop older children from teasing them merely by not reacting in any way, good or bad.\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place. Dog in yard barks all night.\n\nThis behavior is self-reinforcing and seldom extinguishes spontaneously. A certain amount of noise is natural and harmless; let it be, they'll get tired of it. See to it that his or her harsh words have no results, either good or bad. Work on other strokes, footwork, and so on, and try to let the specific error die down from lack of concentrating on it. If the misbehavior is a way of getting attention, remove the attention; shirking,", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 117, "chunk_index": 170, "id": "def82cf0-396b-44e5-94b7-4e7621c7a29e", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "however, may be self-reinforcing. This behavior generally extinguishes with age. Life becomes so full of onerous chores such as paying bills and doing taxes that mere thank-you notes become relaxation by comparison. Ignore the behavior. It will not go away, but you may succeed in extinguishing your own objections to cat hair in your food.\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad. An adult offspring who you think should be self- sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nAccept it as a temporary measure and expect that the adult child will move out as soon as finances improve or the present crisis is over.\n\nHere come the good fairies: the positive methods for getting rid of\n\nOne elegant method is to train the subject to perform another behavior physically incompatible with the one you don't want. For example, some people do not like to have dogs begging at the dining-room table. I hate it myself - there is nothing more likely to curb my appetite than doggy breath, sad-dog eyes, and a heavy paw on my knee just as I am lifting a piece of steak to my mouth.\n\nA Method 1 solution is to put the dog outside or shut it in another room during mealtimes. But it is also possible to control begging by training an incompatible behavior - for example, training a dog to lie in the dining- room doorway when people are eating. First you train the dog to lie down, thereby bringing the behavior under stimulus control. You can then make the dog \"Go lie down\" elsewhere during meals. You reward this behavior with food in the kitchen after the plates are cleared. Going away and lying down is incompatible with begging at the table; a dog cannot physically be two places at once, and so begging is eliminated.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 118, "chunk_index": 171, "id": "d0bafa15-ca73-415d-b1e9-1d7874128be8", "word_count": 309, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 401 } }, { "page_content": "I once saw an orchestra conductor hit on a brilliant use of an incompatible behavior during an opera rehearsal. The whole chorus suddenly fell out of synchrony with the orchestra. It seemed they had memorized one measure of music a beat short. Having identified the problem, the conductor looked for an \"s\" in the lyrics of that measure, found one, and told the chorus to stress that \"s\": \"The king'sssss coming.\" It made a funny buzzing sound, but it was incompatible with rushing through the measure too fast, and it solved the problem.\n\nMy own first use of Method 5 was in the handling of a potentially very serious dolphin problem. At one time at Sea Life Park we had three kinds of performers in the outdoor show: a group of six dainty little spinner dolphins, a huge female bottlenose named Apo, and a pretty Hawaiian girl who swam and played with the spinner dolphins during part of the show. Contrary to popular opinion, dolphins are not always friendly, and bottlenoses in particular are apt to bully and tease. Apo, the six-hundred- pound bottlenose, took to harassing the swimmer when she got in the water, dashing under her and boosting her into the air, or slapping her on the head with her tail flukes. It terrified the girl, and it was indeed very dangerous.\n\nWe did not want to take Apo out of the show, since her leaps and flips made her its star. We started constructing a pen in which she could be shut during the swimmer's performance - a Method 1 solution - but meanwhile we trained an incompatible behavior. We got Apo to press on an underwater lever, at the pool's edge, in return for fish rewards.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 172, "id": "365dc9b4-6ca4-427f-86eb-038d127b069b", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Apo enthusiastically learned to press the lever repeatedly for each fish; she even took to defending her lever from other dolphins. During shows a trainer put Apo's lever in the pool and reinforced lever pressing whenever the swimmer was out in midwater playing with the spinners. Apo could not press her lever and simultaneously be in the middle of the pool beating up the swimmer; the two behaviors were incompatible. Fortunately Apo preferred lever pressing to swimmer harassment, so the behavior was eliminated. (The swimmer, however, never quite trusted this magic and calmed down completely only when Apo was back safely behind bars.)\n\nTraining an incompatible behavior is a good way to attack a faulty tennis\n\nswing or any other muscular pattern that has been learned wrong. Muscles \"learn\" slowly but well; once something has become part of your movement\n\npatterns it is hard to unlearn. (Piano lessons were frustrating to me as a child because it seemed in every piece my fingers would learn one note wrong and stumble in the same place every time.) One way to deal with this is to train an incompatible behavior. Using a tennis swing as an example, first take the movement apart in your mind - posture, position, footwork, start, middle, and end - and go very slowly through each portion of the movement, or many times through just one portion if necessary. Train a completely different swing, a set of new motions. When the muscles begin to learn the new pattern, you can put it together and speed it up.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 119, "chunk_index": 173, "id": "03a2dc1c-4cbc-464c-b6ae-7ff14b658a2a", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "When you start using it in playing time, at full speed, you must pay absolutely no attention at first to where the ball goes; just practice the movement pattern. Now you should have two swings - the old faulty one and the new one. The two are incompatible; you cannot make two swings at once. But while you may never get rid of the old pattern completely, you can reduce it to a minimum by replacing it with the new one. Once that pattern has become a muscle habit, you can concentrate again on where the ball goes. And presumably, with a better swing, the ball will behave better too. (This is also how I could have tackled my piano-lesson problem.)\n\nTraining an incompatible behavior is quite useful in modifying your own\n\nbehavior, especially when dealing with emotional states such as grief, anxiety, and loneliness. Some behaviors are totally incompatible with self- pity: dancing, choral singing, or any highly kinetic motor activity, even running. You cannot engage in them and wallow in misery simultaneously. Feeling awful? Try Method 5.\n\nSAMPLES OF METHOD 5: TRAIN AN INCOMPATIBLE BEHAVIOR\n\nSensible people often employ this method. Singing and playing games in the car relieves parents as well as children from boredom. Diversion, distraction, and pleasant occupations are good alternatives during many tense moments.\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the\n\nAPPROACH Buy a laundry hamper and reward the roommate for placing laundry in it. Wash laundry together,", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 120, "chunk_index": 174, "id": "a10b91db-03c8-40b8-80fd-16299c8308fc", "word_count": 245, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 318 } }, { "page_content": "making it a social occasion, when the hamper is full. Laundry care is incompatible with laundry neglect. Train it to lie down on command; dogs, like most of us, seldom bark lying down. Yell the command out the window or rig an intercom to the doghouse. Reward with praise. Sing songs, tell stories, play games: \"Ghost,\" \"I Spy with My Little Eye,\" \"20 Questions,\" \"Found a Peanut,\" and so on. Even three-year- olds can sing \"Found a Peanut.\" Incompatible with squabbling and yelling. Institute some pleasant activity on homecoming, incompatible with grouching, such as playing with the children or working on a hobby. Thirty minutes of total privacy is often good. Spouse may need time to unwind before switching to family life. Train an alternative tennis swing from scratch (see text). Order him or her to work quicker or harder on a specific task; watch, and praise the job on completion. Train some replacement behavior: If someone sends you a check, write a few grateful words on the back as you endorse it - the bank will take care of the rest. For other kinds of presents, call the sender that very night and say thank you. Then you will never have to write a letter. Train the cat to sit on a kitchen chair for petting and food reward. An eager or hungry cat may hit that chair so hard it slides halfway across the kitchen, but still the cat is where you want it, not on the table.\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad.\n\nRespond to snarls or bullying with eye contact, a civil smile, and an appropriate social remark - \"Good morning\" - or, if the driver is really scolding you, with sympathy: \"You must have a hard job!\" This sometimes prompts courtesy in return, which you can then reinforce.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 121, "chunk_index": 175, "id": "ecdfe912-79c6-4d04-99d5-2ee2fbd4e79e", "word_count": 308, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 400 } }, { "page_content": "An adult offspring who you think should be self-sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nHelp him or her to find another place to live, even if you have to pay for it at first.\n\nThis one's a dilly. It works in some circumstances when nothing else will\n\nIt is an axiom of learning theory that when a behavior is brought under stimulus control - that is, when the organism learns to offer the behavior in response to some kind of cue and only then - the behavior tends to extinguish in the absence of the cue. You can use this natural law to get rid of all kinds of things you don't want, simply by bringing the behavior under the control of a cue ... and then never giving the cue.\n\nI first discovered the use of this elegant method while training a dolphin to wear blindfolds. We wanted to give a demonstration of dolphin sonar, or echolocation, in our public shows at Sea Life Park. I intended to train a male bottlenose dolphin named Makua to wear rubber suction cups over his eyes and then, temporarily blinded, to locate and retrieve objects underwater using his echolocation system. The behavior has become a standard item in oceanarium shows nowadays.\n\nThe blindfolds didn't hurt Makua, but he didn't care for them. By and by, when he saw the suction cups in my hands, he took to sinking to the bottom of the tank and staying there. He would lie there for up to five minutes at a time, waving his tail gently and watching me up through the water with a \"Gotcha!\" look in his eye. I judged it would be unprofitable to try to scare or poke him up to the surface, and foolish to bribe or lure him. So one day, when he sank on me, I rewarded him with the whistle and a bunch of fish.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 122, "chunk_index": 176, "id": "739348c0-6bc4-4f64-8814-0cbda2f4f6ea", "word_count": 320, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 416 } }, { "page_content": "Makua emitted a \"surprise bubble\" - a basketball-sized sphere of air which, in the dolphin world, means \"Huh?\" - and came up and ate his fish. Soon he was sinking on purpose, to earn reinforcers.\n\nThen I introduced an underwater sound as a cue and reinforced him only\n\nfor sinking on cue. Sure enough, he stopped sinking in the absence of the cue. Sinking was never a problem again; when I went back to blindfold training, he accepted his blindfolds like a trouper.\n\nI have also used this method to calm down noisy kids in the car. If you are on your way to someplace wonderful - the circus, say - the children may be noisy because they are excited, too excited to be amenable to Method 5, playing games and singing songs. And on a happy occasion you don't want to use Method 3, negative reinforcement, by pulling over and stopping the car until they are quiet. Now Method 6 is useful: Bring the behavior under stimulus control. \"Okay, everybody make as much noise as you possibly can, starting now!\" (You make noise, too.) This is a lot of fun for about thirty seconds, and then it palls. Two or three repetitions are usually more than enough to ensure reasonable quiet for the rest of the ride. You could say that being noisy on cue takes the fun out of it; or you could say that behavior occurring under stimulus control tends to extinguish in the absence of the stimulus. Maybe something more; but this works.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 123, "chunk_index": 177, "id": "eeca44ee-1008-4e8e-b4d5-e1d9c325bdc6", "word_count": 257, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 334 } }, { "page_content": "Deborah Skinner, daughter of psychologist B. E Skinner, passed on to me a splendid use of Method 6 to control dogs crying at the door. She had a small dog that, when shut outside, would bark and whine at the back door instead of going off and relieving itself. Deborah made a small cardboard disk, one side black and the other white, that she hung on the outside door handle. When the black side was out, no amount of yapping would make the people inside open the door. When the white side was out, the dog would be let in. The dog quickly learned not to bother trying to get back in on the black cue. When Deborah judged that an appropriate amount of time had passed she would open the door a crack, turn the cue around, then let the dog in as soon as it asked.\n\nI tried Deborah's doorknob cue when my daughter acquired a toy poodle\n\npuppy. Peter was a very small dog, barely six inches high at two months, and it really was not safe to let him run around loose even indoors with no\n\none to watch him. When I was busy and Gale was at school, I shut him in Gale's room, with food, water, newspapers, and a blanket.\n\nOf course when he was shut up alone, he made a terrible racket. I\n\ndecided to try Deborah's trick by providing a signal for when barking would and would not be responded to. I grabbed the nearest thing - a small towel - and hung it on the inside doorknob. When the towel was there, no amount of yapping would produce results. When the towel was removed, the puppy's calls for company and freedom would be answered.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 123, "chunk_index": 178, "id": "4c1b985d-d200-4f16-a1e7-176759f96323", "word_count": 293, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 380 } }, { "page_content": "The puppy caught on right away and gave up agitating when the towel was on the doorknob. The only thing I had to remember in order to maintain the behavior was not to just let the puppy out when I felt like doing so, but to open the door, remove the towel, close the door, wait till the puppy barked, and then let him out, thus keeping the barking behavior under stimulus control (in this case, \"no towel\" being the signal for barking-will- be-rewarded), and thus also keeping all other barking extinguished.\n\nIt worked splendidly - for three days. Then one morning Peter's noisy demands were suddenly heard anew. I opened the door and discovered that he had figured out how to leap up, with all his tiny might, and jerk the towel off the doorknob. Once the towel was on the floor, he felt perfectly free to call for release.\n\nIt doesn't seem logical that this method would work, but it can be\n\nstartlingly effective, and sometimes almost an instantaneous cure.\n\nAPPROACH Have a laundry fight. See how big a mess you can both make in ten minutes. (Effective; sometimes the untidy person, seeing what a big mess looks like, is then able to recognize and tidy up smaller messes - one shirt, two socks - that may still bother you but were previously not perceived as messy by the roommate.) Train the dog to bark on command \"Speak!\" for a food reward. In the absence of the command, no\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad. An adult offspring who you think should be self- sufficient wants to\n\nPut noisemaking under stimulus control (see text).", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 124, "chunk_index": 179, "id": "06338f06-10f2-4636-a0fe-4fdaf1c745ad", "word_count": 281, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 365 } }, { "page_content": "Set a time and a signal for grouching; sit down for ten minutes, say, starting at 5 P.M. During that period reinforce all complaining with your full attention and sympathy. Ignore complaining before and after. If you told yourself to hit the ball wrong, and learned to do it on purpose, would the fault tend to extinguish when you did not give the command? It might. Order up goof-off time. This was an amazingly effective technique used by the president of an ad agency where I once worked. Buy a memo pad, notepaper, stamps, a pen, an address book, and a red box. Put the supplies inside the box. When you get a present, write the donor's name on the memo pad, put it on the box, put the red box on your pillow or dinner plate, and don't sleep or eat until you've obeyed the cue of the box and written the letter and sealed, stamped, and mailed it. Train it to jump up on the table on cue and also to jump down on cue (this impresses guests). You can then shape the length of time it has to wait for the cue (all day, eventually).\n\nAs soon as adult children leave home for good, invite them back for visits, making it clear that they should come only by your invitation. Then don't invite them to move in.\n\nThis is a useful technique in cases where you don't have anything particular that you wish the subject to do, just that you want him to stop what he is doing. Example: complaining, guilt-engendering phone calls from relatives whom you like and don't wish to hurt by Method 1, hanging up, or by Methods 2 or 3, scolding or ridicule. The technical term for Method 7 is DRO (Differential Reinforcement of Other behavior).", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 125, "chunk_index": 180, "id": "408b56d8-d44b-4738-b2d3-ec51dd5537c1", "word_count": 303, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 393 } }, { "page_content": "Animal psychologist Harry Frank, who was socializing wolf pups by\n\nbringing them into the house for daily visits, decided to reinforce, with petting and attention, anything that was not in the category of destroying property. It turned out that about the only pastime in a human household that did not involve the pups' chewing up couches, telephone wires, rugs, and so on was lying on the bed; in due course evenings were passed peacefully with Harry, his wife, and three increasingly large young wolves lying on the family bed, watching the nightly news. Method 7.\n\nI used Method 7 to change my mother's behavior on the telephone. An\n\ninvalid for some years, my mother lived in a nursing home. I visited her when I could, but most of our communication took place on the telephone. For years, these phone calls were a trouble to me. The conversations were usually, and sometimes exclusively, concerned with my mother's problems - pain, loneliness, lack of money: real problems I was powerless to mitigate. Her complaints would turn to tears, and tears to accusations - accusations that made me angry. The exchanges were unpleasant, to the extent that I tended to duck the phone calls.\n\nIt occurred to me that there might be a better way. I began concentrating on my own behavior during these phone calls. I used Method 4 and Method 7. I deliberately let her complaints and tears extinguish - Method 4 - by saying \"Ah,\" and \"Hmm,\" and \"Well, well.\" No real results, good or bad. I did not hang up, or attack; I let nothing happen. I then reinforced anything and everything that was not a complaint: queries about my children, news", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 126, "chunk_index": 181, "id": "054288da-978f-41c0-a60b-d46be8582bfe", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "from the nursing home, discussion of weather, or books, or friends. These remarks I responded to with enthusiasm. Method 7.\n\nTo my astonishment, after twenty years of conflict, within two months the proportion of tears and distress to chat and laughter in our weekly phone calls became reversed. At the start of the phone calls my mother's worries - \"Have you mailed a check? Did you talk to the doctor? Would you call my social worker?\" - turned into simple requests instead of reiterated grievances. Now the rest of the time became filled with gossip, reminiscing, and jokes.\n\nMy mother had been in her youth, and now became again, a fascinating,\n\nwitty woman. For the remaining years of her life, I really loved talking to her, in person and on the phone.\n\n\"Isn't that awfully manipulative?\" a psychiatrist friend once asked. Sure. What was happening before to me was awfully manipulative, too. Perhaps some therapist might have persuaded me to deal differently with my mother, or she with me, but perhaps not. How much simpler it seemed to have a clear-cut Method 7 goal. What are you actually reinforcing? Anything but what you don't want.\n\nSAMPLES OF METHOD 7: SHAPE THE ABSENCE OF UNWANTED BEHAVIORS\n\nThis takes some conscious effort over a period of time, but is often\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place.\n\nAPPROACH Buy beer or invite over members of the opposite sex whenever quarters are tidy or roommate does the laundry. Go out and reward him new and then at night when he has been quiet for ten, twenty minutes, an hour, and so on.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 182, "id": "2d0e8172-5171-45e6-860a-53573cd22c83", "word_count": 271, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 352 } }, { "page_content": "Kids too noisy in the car. Wait for a quiet time and then say \"You all\n\nhave been so quiet today that I'm going to stop at McDonald's.\" (Say this right near\n\nSurly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad.\n\nAn adult offspring who you think should be self- sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nMcDonald's so you can keep your promise promptly, before they get noisy again!) Think up some good reinforcers and surprise him or her with them whenever the mood does happen to be pleasant. Ignore bad shots, and praise yourself for good ones. (This really works.) Praise the hell out of him for any job actually done satisfactorily. (You do not have to keep this up for a lifetime, just long enough to establish the new trend.) Treat yourself to a movie any time you get a present and promptly write and mail the thank- you note. Rewarding the cat for periods of staying off the table is practical only if you keep the kitchen door closed when you're not home so the cat can't indulge in the behavior by itself. If you run into the same bus driver on your route every day, a pleasant \"good morning\" or even a flower, or a soft drink, when he or she is not being rude, should lead to improvement in a week or two. Reinforce adult children for living away from home when they are doing so. Don't criticize their housekeeping, choice of apartment, decor, or taste in friends, or they may decide you're right, your house is a better place to live.\n\nEliminating the motivation for a behavior is often the kindliest and most", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 127, "chunk_index": 183, "id": "202d3985-f099-49e8-a592-da26f3840570", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "effective method of all. The person who has enough to eat is not going to steal a loaf of bread.\n\nA common sight I always wince at is the mother whose small child is having a tantrum in the supermarket and who is jerking on the kid's arm to make it hush up. Of course one can empathize - the tantrum is embarrassing, and jerking is a surreptitious way to shock the child into silence, less conspicuous than yelling or smacking. (It's also a good way to dislocate a little child's elbow or shoulder, as any orthopedic surgeon can tell you.) The problem is usually that the child is hungry, and the sight and smell of all that food is too much for it. Very few young mothers have someone to leave the kids with while they market, and working mothers often have to market right before dinnertime, when they themselves are tired and hungry and hence irritable.\n\nThe solution is to feed the kids before or while going to the market; any\n\nsort of junk food would be preferable to the distressing scenes that upset child, mother, checkout clerks, and everyone else within range.\n\nSome behaviors are self-reinforcing - that is, the very enactment of the behavior is a reinforcement. Gum chewing, smoking, and thumb sucking are examples. The best way to get rid of these behaviors in yourself or another is to change the motivation. I gave up chewing gum as a child because an aunt told me it made girls look cheap, and not looking \"cheap\" was a lot more important to me than the pleasure of chewing gum. Smokers quit when their motives for smoking are met in other ways or when motivation to stop - fear of cancer, say - outweighs the reinforcers of smoking. Thumb sucking stops when a child's level of confidence is high enough that he or she no longer needs the self-comforting.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 128, "chunk_index": 184, "id": "c1dc32ae-a530-4437-a20b-020b89645e83", "word_count": 321, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 417 } }, { "page_content": "To change motivation, one needs to make an accurate estimate of what\n\nthe motivation is, and we are often very incompetent at that. We love to jump to conclusions: \"She hates my guts,\" \"The boss has it in for me,\" \"That kid is just no damned good.\" Often we don't even understand our own motivations. The whole profession of psychology and psychiatry has arisen in part for that reason.\n\nEven if we have no unhealthy motivations ourselves, we pay a big penalty for this popular misreading of hidden motivation, especially when we must rely on the medical professions. Physical problems, if not blatantly obvious, are all too often assumed to be emotional in origin and are treated as such, without further examination for a real physical cause. I've seen a\n\nbusinessman treated with amphetamines so he would stop \"feeling\" exhausted, when in fact he was exhausted from overwork. In a West Coast city, a woman was diagnosed as neurotic and treated with tranquilizers by half a dozen doctors who apparently saw no physical reason for her symptoms. She nearly ended up in a mental hospital before the seventh doctor discovered she was not malingering but in fact was slowly dying of carbon monoxide poisoning due to a leaky furnace in her home. I myself had some doctor I'd never seen before give me a scolding and a prescription for tranquilizers when what was wrong - and I'd told him I thought so - was not an \"imaginary\" sore throat but an incipient case of the mumps.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 129, "chunk_index": 185, "id": "0da25976-f85b-48c6-a657-06593895e5ed", "word_count": 256, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 332 } }, { "page_content": "Sometimes, of course, the motive really consists of a need for reassurance, and therefore (if the dispenser of relief is perceived as a powerful and believable person) a tranquilizer or even a sugar pill, or placebo, can calm the spirit, lower the blood pressure, and ease symptoms. Holy water and a blessing can do it, too, if you believe they will. The so- called placebo effect also probably helps to keep witch doctors in business. I see nothing wrong with that. The motivation is a need for reassurance, a very genuine need. The trick in any circumstance is to identify the motivation, rather than just jump to conclusions. One way to do that is to notice what actually helps change the behavior and what doesn't.\n\nThe message: If you or a friend has a puzzling behavioral problem, think hard about possible motivations. Never forget the possibility of a cause such as hunger, illness, loneliness, or fear. If it is possible to eliminate the underlying cause, and thus eliminate or change the motivation, you've got it made.\n\nIf you can find a way to do it, this method always works and is the\n\nBEHAVIOR Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over the place.\n\nAPPROACH Hire a maid or housekeeper to tidy up and do laundry, so neither you nor the roommate has to cope. This may be the best solution if you are married to this roommate and you both work. Or the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 130, "chunk_index": 186, "id": "57ffcc2f-d282-4ed8-a702-60f10a3524c5", "word_count": 241, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 313 } }, { "page_content": "messy person could shape the tidy one to be more casual. Barking dogs are lonely, frightened, and bored. Give exercise and attention by day so that the dog is tired and sleepy at night, or provide another dog to sleep with at night for company. Or bring dog inside. Escalation of noise and conflict is often due to hunger and fatigue. Provide juice, fruit and cookies, and pillows for comfortable lounging on home-from- school trips. On long journeys all of the above plus ten minutes per hour of stopping and running around outdoors (good for parents too). Encourage a job change. Feed cheese and crackers or a cup of hot soup right at the door if hunger and fatigue are the motivation. If stress is the problem, a glass of wine, or fresh air and exercise, may be appropriate. Stop trying to beat the world by winning on the tennis court. Play for fun. (Not applicable to world- class tennis players - or is it?) Pay for work done, not for hours put in. Task- oriented payment is often very effective with non- Western employees. It's the barn-raising principle; everyone works like mad until the known task is completed, and then everyone can leave. Hollywood movies are made this way. We dislike this task because it is a behavior chain (see Method 6) and therefore hard to start, especially since there is no good reinforcement at the end (we already have the present!). We also sometimes put it off because we think we have to write a good, clever, or perfect letter. Not true: All the recipient needs to know is that you are grateful for his or her symbol of affection. Fancy words in a thank-you note are no", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 131, "chunk_index": 187, "id": "b20ccb5a-cb5c-4bd9-9a6a-9b58a674d52e", "word_count": 290, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 377 } }, { "page_content": "Surly bus driver is rude to you and makes you mad.\n\nAn adult offspring who you think should be self- sufficient wants to move back in with you.\n\nmore important than fancy penmanship on a check: On-time delivery is what counts. Why do cats get on the table? (1) to look for food, so put the food away; (2) cats like to lounge in a high place where they can see what's going on. Arrange a shelf or a pedestal higher than the tabletop, close enough so you can pet the cat, and offering a good view of the kitchen, and the cat may well prefer it. Avoid being snarled at on buses by doing your job: Have your change ready, know your destination, don't block the aisle, don't mumble questions, try to be sympathetic about traffic tie-ups, and so on. Bus drivers get crabby because bus riders can be such a pain. Adults with friends, self-esteem, a purpose in life, some kind of work, and a roof over their heads usually don't want to live with or on their parents. Help your kids find the first three as they are growing up, and they'll usually take care of the job and the roof on their own. Then you can all stay friends.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 132, "chunk_index": 188, "id": "d02714b1-b522-4d09-ad1f-a4a7b39b579d", "word_count": 213, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 276 } }, { "page_content": "Motivation is a huge subject to which scientists have devoted lifetimes of study. By and large it lies outside the scope of this book, but because it has been necessary to discuss motivation as it relates to undesirable behavior, perhaps this is the place to discuss a training device sometimes used to heighten motivation: deprivation. The theory is if an animal is working for positive reinforcement, the more it needs that reinforcer, the harder and more reliably it will work. Laboratory rats and pigeons are often conditioned with food reinforcers. To heighten their motivation, they are fed less food than they would eat on their own. It is customary to give them just enough to keep them at 85 percent of normal body weight. This is called food deprivation.\n\nDeprivation has become such a standard technique in experimental\n\npsychology that when I started training, I assumed it was probably a necessity in working with rats and pigeons. Of course we did not use deprivation with dolphins. Our dolphins were given all they would eat whether they'd earned it or not at the end of each day since dolphins that do not get enough to eat often become sick and die.\n\nIt did occur to me in those days that I was using food and social\n\nreinforcers with ponies and children, quite successfully, without first having to reduce the baseline supply of love or nourishment to get results. Perhaps food deprivation was necessary only with simpler organisms, such as rats and pigeons? Yet our Sea Life Park trainers were shaping behavior with food reinforcers in pigs, chickens, penguins, even fish and octopi, and no one ever dreamed of making the poor things extra-hungry first.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 132, "chunk_index": 189, "id": "446eb20a-7b24-4710-a6b6-26101497e524", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } }, { "page_content": "I still thought deprivation must be necessary in some kinds of training, since it is so widely used - until I ran into Dave Butcher's sea lions. I had never worked with sea lions myself, and my cursory impression was that they worked only for fish and that they were antisocial and bit trainers. I also thought that only young animals were used for training. All the working animals I had ever seen were comparatively small, between one hundred and two hundred pounds, and I knew that sea lions in the wild get quite large.\n\nDave Butcher, director of training for Sea World in Florida, showed me more than I'd imagined possible. His sea lions worked for social and tactile reinforcers as well as fish, and of course for conditioned reinforcers and on variable schedules as well. Consequently they did not have to be kept hungry in order to make them perform; during and after the day's performances, the sea lions could have all the fish they wanted. One result was that the sea lions were not snarly and crabby, as any hungry animal might be. They were friendly to those humans they knew, and they enjoyed being touched. I was astonished to see trainers on their lunch hour sunbathing in a pile with their sea lions, each young man resting against the ample flank of one sea lion, with the head of another sea lion in his lap. Another result of the discontinuance of food deprivation was that these sea lions grew ... and grew! Most trained sea lions in the past, Dave speculated, were small not because of youth but because they were stunted. Sea World's", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 133, "chunk_index": 190, "id": "123eae7d-00d1-4555-a6f4-9c22a7c76835", "word_count": 278, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 361 } }, { "page_content": "performers weigh six, seven, eight hundred pounds. They are very active, not a bit obese, but they are huge, as nature intended. And they work hard. The five or more daily shows are marvelous.\n\nIt's my suspicion now that trying to increase motivation by using deprivation of any sort is not only unnecessary but deleterious. Reducing the normal levels of food, attention, company, or anything else a subject likes or needs before training begins - and solely in order to make the reinforcer more powerful by making subject more needful - is just a poor excuse for bad training. Maybe it has to be used in the laboratory, but in the real world it is good training that creates high motivation, not the other way around.\n\nIn the tables in this chapter, I have shown how each of the eight methods might be applied to specific behavioral problems. For some problems there are one or two solutions that are obviously best. For the dog that barks in the night from fear and loneliness, bringing the dog inside or providing it with a companion will usually ensure that it barks only when genuinely alarmed. For other problems, different methods are appropriate at different times. One can keep children from being too noisy in the car in several ways, depending on the circumstances.\n\nThere are other behavioral problems, however, that arise from multiple", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 134, "chunk_index": 191, "id": "b7235301-ccdc-4a51-9135-01a6039b8925", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "causes, become firmly entrenched, and are not controllable by any single method - stress symptoms such as nail biting, bad habits such as chronic lateness, addictive behaviors such as smoking. These behaviors can be reduced or eliminated by calculated use of the eight methods, but it may take a combination of several methods to bring the behavior to a halt (and again, I am talking about behavioral problems only in reasonably normal subjects, not in mentally ill or damaged subjects).\n\nLet's look at some examples of problems requiring multiple-method\n\nNail biting is both a symptom of stress and a diversion that tends to relieve tension momentarily. In animals such activity is called displacement behavior. A dog in a situation of tension - for instance, when being coaxed over to be petted by a stranger - may suddenly sit down and scratch itself. Two horses threatening each other in a dominance conflict may suddenly go through the motions of grazing. Displacement behavior very often consists of self-grooming activities. In animals under conditions of confinement, the behavior may be carried out so repetitiously that it leads to self-mutilation. Birds preen their feathers until they have plucked themselves bare; cats lick a paw until they have created an open wound. Nail biting (and hair pulling, scratching, and other grooming behaviors) can be carried to this extreme in people, and yet even pain does not stop the behavior.\n\nBecause the behavior does indeed distract one from stress momentarily,", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 134, "chunk_index": 192, "id": "6cae69c9-28a2-4095-8b42-eb7aabd8fce9", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "it becomes self-reinforcing and thus very hard to get rid of. In fact, it becomes a habit and can occur even when there is no stress around. Sometimes Method 4 works - extinction. The habit fades away as one grows older and more confident. But that can take years. Method 1 - making nail biting impossible by, say, wearing gloves - and Method 2 - punishment by guilt or scoldings - will not teach the nail biter an alternative behavior.\n\nMethod 3, negative reinforcement - painting the fingernails with\n\nsomething bad-tasting perhaps - is effective only if the habit is fading away anyway. (This goes for thumb sucking, too.)\n\nIf you have this habit, the best way to get rid of it is probably to use a combination of all four of the positive methods. First, using Method 5, an incompatible behavior, learn to observe yourself starting to nail-bite, and every time your hand drifts toward your mouth, jump up and do something else. Take four deep breaths. Drink a glass of water. Hop up and down. Stretch. You cannot be nail biting and doing these things at the same time (and all are, in themselves, tension relievers).\n\nMeanwhile, work on Method 8, changing the motivation. Reduce the overall stress in your life. Share your worries with others, who may in fact have solutions. Get more physical exercise, which usually enables one to face problems more easily. You can also shape the absence of behavior (Method 7) by rewarding yourself with a ring or a good manicure as soon as one and then another nail grows enough to be visible (even if you had to", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 135, "chunk_index": 193, "id": "bef6bc5b-60da-424f-ab07-204a016d1fb4", "word_count": 275, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 357 } }, { "page_content": "bandage a finger to get there at first). And you might also try psychologist Jennifer James's excellent suggestion for putting the behavior on cue: All day long, every time you find yourself starting to bite your nails, write down what is bothering you at the moment. Then every evening sit down at a specific time and bite your nails continuously for twenty minutes while worrying over everything on your list. In due course, you should be able to shape the nail-biting time down to zero, especially if you combine this effort with the other methods above.\n\nPeople who lead complex, demanding lives sometimes get to places late because they have too much to do and have to try to cram it all in somehow - working mothers, people in new and fast-growing businesses, some doctors, and so on. Other people tend to be late as a general rule, whether they are busy or not.\n\nSince some of the world's busiest people are impeccably punctual, we have to suspect that some of the people who are often late are choosing to be so.\n\nOne would think that tardiness would carry its own downfall, in the form of negative reinforcement - you miss half the movie, the party is almost over, the person you keep waiting is furious. But these are apt to be punishers, not negative reinforcers. They punish the behavior of arriving. And habitually late people generally have marvelous excuses prepared, for which they are pleasantly reinforced with forgiveness (which develops their excuse-making skills and in fact reinforces late arriving).", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 136, "chunk_index": 194, "id": "c76c5ce8-e31a-4db1-a531-9046a4e12ed7", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "The fastest way to conquer being late is Method 8, changing the\n\nmotivation. People have many reasons for being late. One is fear: You don't want to be in school, so you dawdle. Another is a bid for sympathy: \"Poor little me, I have been saddled with so many responsibilities that I cannot meet my commitments.\" There is hostile lateness - when you secretly do not wish to be with those people at all - and show-off lateness, when you make it obvious that you have much more important things to do with your time than show up here.\n\nIt really doesn't matter what the particular motives are in a given case. To stop being late, all one has to do is change the motivation by deciding that in all circumstances being on time is going to have first priority over any other consideration. Presto! You will never have to run for a plane or miss an appointment again. As a lifelong latecomer, that's how I cured myself. Having made the decision that promptness was now of major importance, I found that answers came automatically to such questions as \"Do I have time to get my hair done before the committee meeting?\" or \"Can I squeeze in one more errand before the dentist?\" or \"Do I have to leave for the airport now?\" The answers are always no, no, and yes. Once in a while I still slip up, but by and large choosing to be on time has made my life enormously easier, and that of family, friends, and colleagues as well.\n\nIf changing the motivation is not enough for you, you could add Method", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 136, "chunk_index": 195, "id": "60279025-e9a0-411b-a6b4-cf0fc083b941", "word_count": 276, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 358 } }, { "page_content": "5, training an incompatible behavior, by aiming at getting places early (bring a book). Or add Method 7, shaping the absence - reinforce yourself, and get your friends to reinforce you, for what in others might be normal but what in you takes special effort, absence of lateness. And try Method 6, putting lateness on cue. Choose some events to which you truly wish to be late, announce that you intend to be late, and then be late. Since behavior occurring on cue tends to extinguish in the absence of the signal, being deliberately late when it's safe to be so may help extinguish being \"accidentally\" or unconsciously late when you really should be on time.\n\nAddictions to ingested substances - cigarette smoke, alcohol, caffeine,\n\ndrugs, and so on - have physical effects that tend to keep you hooked whatever you do and to give you nasty withdrawal symptoms if you must go without the substance. But there are huge behavior components to these addictions as well. Some people behave as if addicted, including suffering withdrawal symptoms, to relatively harmless substances such as tea, soda pop, and chocolate, or to pastimes such as running and eating. Some people can turn addictions on and off. Most smokers, for example, find that the urge to smoke hits as regularly as a clock and that they are frantic if they run out of cigarettes. But some Orthodox Jews can smoke heavily six days a week and then abstain completely on the Sabbath without a pang.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 137, "chunk_index": 196, "id": "88b99eed-f127-433d-809d-bab6dc8b4e99", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "In addition to physical symptoms, most addictions provide temporary stress relief, so that they become displacement activities, which makes them doubly hard to eliminate. But because addictions have strong behavioral components, it is conceivable that any addiction problem can be tackled behaviorally by one or more of the eight methods with some possibility of good results.\n\nAlmost all addict-rehabilitation programs, from dry-out clinics to Synanon, rely heavily on Methods 1 and 8. The desired substance is made physically unavailable, and therapy is given to try to find some other source of satisfaction for the subject - increased self-esteem, insight, job skills, whatever - to change the motivation that provides the needfulness. Many treatments also rely on Method 2, punishment, usually by preaching about lapses and thus inducing guilt. I once went through a quit-smoking program, which was in fact very helpful, even though I frequently cheated. When I cheated - smoked someone else's cigarettes at a tense business meeting, for example - I felt dreadfully guilty; the next morning I would be practically ill with guilt. But that didn't stop me the next time; Methods 2 and 3, punishment and negative reinforcement, did not work very well for me. But they do for some. Weight-loss programs often emphasize not only public praise for losing pounds but shame in front of the group for gaining, and some people will work to avoid the possibility of that shame.\n\nA lot of addictive behavior has elements of superstitious behavior. The", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 138, "chunk_index": 197, "id": "988b887d-87b0-4763-a308-57809ed7e5d2", "word_count": 247, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 321 } }, { "page_content": "action - eating, smoking, whatever - has accidentally gotten hooked to environmental cues that trigger the urge. A time of day makes you want a drink, the phone rings and you think of lighting up a cigarette, and so on. Systematic identification of all these cues, and extinction of the behavior by not doing it on each cue, one cue at a time, is a valuable Method 4 adjunct to getting rid of an addictive habit. This might mean something simple such as putting the ashtrays out of sight, or it might involve a whole change of scenery, a move to a new environment where nothing constitutes an old familiar trigger cue (cured heroin addicts are not likely to stay clean if they go right back to life on familiar streets).\n\nPunishment has been touted as a behavioral method for controlling addiction. Alcoholics, for example, have been wired up and then given shocks while lifting a glass of liquor, and medicine exists that will make\n\nyou vomit if you ingest alcohol. Like most negative reinforcers, these work well only if there is someone around to administer them, and preferably unpredictably.\n\nMost addictive behavior doesn't yield very easily to just one method. I\n\nthink the way to tackle addictive behavior in yourself - and this is one situation where the subject may very well be the most effective trainer - is to study all eight methods and find some way, with the exception of punishment, to engage in frequent application of every single one.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 138, "chunk_index": 198, "id": "22165108-2a33-4e57-968d-8c70faa8f305", "word_count": 253, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 328 } }, { "page_content": "In discussing Skinnerian theory, I pointed out that Schopenhauer once said that every original idea is first ridiculed, then vigorously attacked, and finally taken for granted. I think there is a fourth step in the evolution of an idea: The idea is not only accepted, but understood, cherished, and put to work. This is what I see beginning to happen with positive reinforcement, especially among people who have grown up with Skinnerian concepts in the Zeitgeist, in the air around them - people, that is, who have been born since 1950. They take to positive reinforcement and shaping without fear or resistance, as children nowadays take to the computers that their parents may still shrink from. They share techniques with their elders, and they infect those around them with their enthusiasm. Let me give you some examples I find heartening.\n\nFrom my casual observations, the training of most team sports - pro football, for example - continues in the good old Neanderthal tradition: lots of deprivation, punishment, favoritism, and verbal and mental abuse. The training of individual sports, however, seems to be undergoing a revolution. In fact, it was a symptom of that revolution that prompted the writing of this book. At a dinner party in Westchester County, New York, I was seated next to my hostess's tennis pro, a nice young man from Australia. He said to me,\n\n\"I hear you were a dolphin trainer. Do you know about Skinner and all that?\"\n\n\"Well, tell me, where can I get a book about Skinner that will help me be", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 139, "chunk_index": 199, "id": "5354b9a7-34f8-48b8-b1dd-65881a6b71d0", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "I knew there was no such thing. Why there wasn't continues to be a\n\nmystery to me, but I set out to write one, and here it is. Meanwhile, I pondered the amazing fact that this person, and presumably many like him, knew exactly what was needed. It meant there are people out there who already have a grasp of reinforcement training and want to know more about it.\n\nAt that time I was living in New York City. Partly for relief from house- pent, sedentary city life, and partly from a trainer's curiosity, I began to take a few lessons in various kinds of physical activities ranging from name- brand exercise classes to squash, sailing, skiing (both downhill and cross- country), figure skating, and dance.\n\nTo my surprise, only one of the instructors I worked under (the exercise-\n\nclass teacher) relied on traditional browbeating and ridicule to elicit behavior. All the rest used well-timed positive reinforcers and often very ingenious shaping procedures. This contrasted sharply with my earlier memories of physical instruction - ballet classes, riding lessons, gym classes at school and college - none of which I shined in, and all of which I feared as much as enjoyed. Take ice skating, for example. I took figure- skating lessons as a child at a large and successful skating school. The instructor showed us what to do, and then we practiced and struggled until we could do it while the instructor corrected our posture and arm positions and exhorted us to try harder. I never could learn my \"outside edges\" - gliding in a circle to the left, say, with my weight on the outside edge of the left foot. Since that was preliminary to most of the figures, I didn't get very far.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 140, "chunk_index": 200, "id": "895b37c6-b97e-42ce-a774-a2af2060c4ae", "word_count": 295, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 383 } }, { "page_content": "Now I tried a few lessons at a modern skating school in New York, managed by an Olympic coach. The staff used exactly the same methods on adults as on children - no scolding or urging, just instant reinforcement for each accomplishment; and there was plenty of accomplishment. Every\n\nsingle thing a skater needs to know was broken down into easily managed shaping steps, starting with falling down and getting up again. Gliding on one foot? Easy: Shove off from the wall, feet parallel, gliding on two feet; lift one up, ever so briefly, put it down, then lift the other; then do it again, lift a little longer, and so on. In ten minutes the entire beginners' class, including the weak, the wobbly, the very young, and the very old, were gliding on one foot with looks of wild astonishment and elation on their faces.\n\nI didn't even realize that the \"crossover\" step they'd shaped in my second\n\nlesson had cured my childhood balance problems, until I found myself, during the free-skating period after class, sailing around corners blithely on my outside edges. And more! By the third lesson I could do spins, real spins like the skaters on TV, and natty little jump turns I never dreamed of aspiring to in childhood. (These were at first shaped most ingeniously along the wall.) What a revelation. The difficulty in learning such skills is caused not by physical requirements but by the absence of good shaping procedures.\n\nSkiing is another example. The advent of the fiberglass ski and ski boot", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 140, "chunk_index": 201, "id": "eb6d9578-308d-4431-8e73-2ab2940d1ae2", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "made skiing possible for the multitudes, not just for the exceptionally athletic. But what gets the multitudes out on the slopes is the teaching methods that use short skis at first and shape each needed behavior (slowing down, turning, and stopping - and of course falling down and getting up) through a series of small, easily accomplished steps marked by positive reinforcers. I went to Aspen, took three skiing lessons, and skied down an entire mountain. The more vigorous in my beginners' class were tackling the intermediate slopes by the end of a week.\n\nThere have always been individual teachers who produce rapid results. I\n\nthink what had changed in the last decade or two is that the principles that produce rapid results are becoming implicit in the standard teaching strategies: \"This is the way to teach skiing: Don't yell at them, follow steps one through ten, praise and reinforce accomplishment at each step, and you'll get most of them out on the slopes in three days.\" When most instructors are using shaping and reinforcement, and consequently getting rapid results, the rest find they have to shift to the new methods just to compete for jobs. If this is happening in every individual sport, it is\n\nprobably a major contribution to the so-called fitness craze. Learning active skills has become fun.\n\nIn our country labor and management traditionally adopt an adversary", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 141, "chunk_index": 202, "id": "5cb2a5aa-4e33-404f-b3bb-e6ce4538da1f", "word_count": 231, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 300 } }, { "page_content": "position. The idea that everyone is in the same game together has never been particularly popular in American business. General business practice seems to decree that each side try to get as much as possible from the other while giving as little as possible. Of course this is really dumb from a training standpoint, and some managements lean toward other approaches. In the 1960s \"sensitivity training\" and other social-psychology approaches were popular, to enlighten management about the needs and feelings of coworkers and employees. One can be as enlightened as possible, however, and still not know what to do about an employee problem. The facts of business are that some people have more status and some less, some take orders and some give them. In our country a working situation is, for the most part, not like a family, nor should it be. Family-type interpersonal problem solving is therefore inappropriate.\n\nI was interested recently to see, cropping up here and there in business\n\nnews and publications, a more trainerly approach - ways to use reinforcement that range from the ingenious to the downright brilliant. For example, one management consultant suggests that when part of a group must be laid off, you identify the bottom 10 percent and the top 20 percent. You lay off the poorest performers, but you also make sure to tell the top 20 percent that they are being retained because they're doing such a good job. What a sensible idea. Besides saving your best people some sleepless nights and reinforcing them quite powerfully under the worrisome circumstances, you may be motivating intermediate performers either to seek the reinforcer they can now see is available or to avoid falling into the lowest percentile themselves.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 142, "chunk_index": 203, "id": "d5efce3a-477d-41d7-bfb9-f676fed000b9", "word_count": 287, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 373 } }, { "page_content": "Reinforcers for middle-level, middle-aged managers can consist of more interesting work at their present level instead of promotion, which they may not be able to handle (or may not want, if it involves relocating the family). Cash bonuses for nonsmokers and for quitting smoking are paid by one\n\ncomputer-software company, and for good reason: The products it makes can be damaged by smoke particles. Other reinforcers in widening use include free choice of working hours, the \"flextime\" system (especially desirable for working mothers), working in self-managed production teams, and being rewarded for getting the job done rather than for putting in the hours. All of these management techniques are designed around what the worker actually finds reinforcing - what works for people, not just for profits.\n\nPrograms aimed at cost cutting and work speedups - programs that essentially try to force workers to do not quite as bad a job as they are presently doing - are not nearly as effective as programs that help workers to do a better job and then reward them for it. Corporations that use positive reinforcement often see the results on their bottom line. One example is Delta Airlines, which is known for taking very good care of its employees. During the 1981 recession, in spite of operating losses, Delta refused to lay off any of its 37,000 employees. In fact, it gave a companywide 8 percent pay raise. In a long-established climate of positive reinforcement, the employees thought in the same terms; they turned around and reinforced the company by pooling funds and buying it a new airplane, a $30-million Boeing 767.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 142, "chunk_index": 204, "id": "9689c59d-ed3f-40bf-8a98-539130fd3b12", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "Throughout this book I have spoken of the way reinforcement theory has enabled professional animal trainers to establish behaviors in creatures that simply cannot be trained by force: cats, cougars, chickens, birds in the air, whales and dolphins. Training with reinforcement has opened up areas of discovery that I believe we've only begun to explore.\n\nOne of the advantages of reinforcement training is that you don't have to think up something for the animal to do and then train it to do that; you can reinforce anything the animal happens to offer and see where it leads. No one dreamed that harbor seals could \"talk,\" but at the New England Aquarium graduate student Betsy Constantine noticed that a rescued harbor seal named Hoover could make humanlike sounds. She shaped Hoover's sounds with fish reinforcers. Soon Hoover was \"saying\" a number of things.\n\nHoover (in a guttural bass voice but very distinctly): \"Hiya, honey, h'are\n\nIt's funny to hear, but also of real scientific interest to mammalogists and\n\nreinforcement training is the window that the training opens up into an animal's mind. It's been fashionable for decades to deny that animals have minds or feelings, and this was probably healthy - it cleared up a lot of superstitions, over-interpretation (\"My dog understands every word I say\"), and misreading. But then along came the ethologists, spearheaded by Konrad Lorenz, to point out that animals have internal states - anger, fear, and so on - and that these are signaled by very clear-cut postures, expressions, and movements, which can be recognized and interpreted.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 143, "chunk_index": 205, "id": "2c920a3d-24f5-4a12-8edd-6e41b2206524", "word_count": 260, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 338 } }, { "page_content": "When you can see the subject and the subject can see you, and yet both of you are protected from any physical encounter or bodily harm (perhaps the animal is inside a cage or pen and you are not), then the animal is free to express any internal states the training interaction provokes. Very often the animal begins directing the resulting social behavior at the trainer - in signals ranging from greeting behavior to temper tantrums. Knowing nothing about a particular species but knowing how any subject tends to react to various training events, one can learn more about the nature of a species' social signals in a half hour of training than in a month of watching the animal interact with its own kind. For example, if I see a dolphin jump up in the air and come down with a big splash in a pool of other dolphins, I can only speculate as to why it did that; but if, in a training session, I fail to reinforce something I had previously reinforced every time, and the dolphin jumps up in the air and comes down with a big, directed splash that soaks me from head to toe, I can say with some certainty that at least part of the time it would seem likely that jump-splashes are aggressive displays, and effective ones, too.\n\nOne can tell more than that. Engaging a wild animal in some simple shaping procedure can give you a startling glimpse of what might be called species temperament - of how not only that individual but that species tends", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 144, "chunk_index": 206, "id": "8285f6ab-fcfa-45e4-8700-2560813b21b3", "word_count": 265, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 344 } }, { "page_content": "to tackle the challenges in its environment. Teaching training to my class of keepers at the National Zoo, I used a number of different species as demonstration animals. I stood on my side of the fence, using a whistle as conditioned reinforcer, and tossing in food; the animals moved about freely on their side. The polar bears turned out to be immensely persistent and dogged. One bear which accidentally got reinforced while sitting still took to offering \"sitting still\" as a response; slavering hopefully, eyes glued to the trainer, it could sit still for half an hour or more, hoping for reinforcement. It seems possible that in an animal which stalks seals on ice floes for a living, this kind of tenacity and patience has important survival value. I wouldn't have dreamed of going inside the elephant pens at the National Zoo, no matter how docilely the elephants obeyed their regular handlers. But with the help of keeper Jim Jones, I did run a couple of \"freestyle\" training sessions through the bars with a young Indian female named Shanti. I decided to shape her to throw a Frisbee, starting with retrieving it. Shanti immediately started playing 101 Things to Do with a Frisbee, especially making noise. (Jim told me elephants like to make noise.) Shanti made noise with the Frisbee by holding it in her trunk and banging it on the wall, by rattling it along the bars like a child with a stick, and by putting it on the floor and shuffling it back and forth with her foot. I was already amused. She was fun.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 145, "chunk_index": 207, "id": "b7ebfd43-ba1b-467b-bcd0-428ca3f9d064", "word_count": 267, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 347 } }, { "page_content": "Shanti quickly learned to fetch the Frisbee to me in return for a toot on\n\nthe whistle and snack from the bucket. She also quickly learned to stand just a little bit farther away each time so I had to reach farther in for the Frisbee. When I didn't fall for that, she whopped me on the arm. When Jim and I both yelled at her for that (a sign of disapproval, which elephants respect), she started fetching nicely but pretended she'd forgotten how to pick up carrots. It took her a full minute, feeling the carrot in my hand with her trunk, while looking meaningfully into my bucket, to get me to understand that she preferred the apples and sweet potatoes that were also in there.\n\nWhen I proved to be intelligent and biddable in this matter and started\n\ngiving her the preferred reinforcers, she immediately used the same technique - feeling with the trunk tip while making meaningful glances and\n\neye contact - to try to get me to open the padlock on her cage. Elephants are not just a little bit smart; elephants are eerily smart.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 145, "chunk_index": 208, "id": "815f6836-292d-4609-82c9-2eaa1e095d11", "word_count": 189, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 245 } }, { "page_content": "Species temperament shows up in many, many species in a shaping session. When I inadvertently failed to reinforce a hyena, instead of getting mad or quitting, it turned on the charm, sitting down in front of me, grinning and chuckling like a fur-covered Johnny Carson. In shaping a wolf to go around a bush in its yard, I made the same mistake, failing to reinforce it when I should have; the wolf looked over its shoulder, made eye contact with a long, thoughtful stare, then ran on, right around the bush, earning all the kibble I had in my pocket; it had sized up the situation, perhaps deciding that I was still in the game since I was still watching, and it had taken a chance and guessed at what would work. Big risk takers, wolves. If hyenas are comedians, wolves are Vikings.\n\nSometimes the animals understand reinforcement perfectly. Melanie Bond, in charge of the National Zoo's great apes, had started reinforcing Ham, the chimpanzee, for various behaviors. One morning he was accumulating his food rather than eating it, with the intention, Melanie supposed, of eating outdoors. When Ham saw that at last Melanie was going over to open the door and let him outside, he knew what to do: He handed her a stalk of celery.\n\nI can sympathize with biologists who want to observe the natural", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 146, "chunk_index": 209, "id": "6091c2e4-a688-46c6-a700-6c4f9b74a4fd", "word_count": 228, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 296 } }, { "page_content": "behavior of animals without disturbing or interfering with that behavior in any way, and who thus reject gross interference such as training. And I can understand, though I do not sympathize with, the experimental psychologist who shuns any conclusions about animals that are purely observational and cannot be backed up by numerical data. But I remain convinced that shaping sessions offer a fruitful way to combine both approaches and that both field and laboratory workers who can't or don't consider this tool may be missing a bet.\n\nShaping and reinforcement, deftly used, may also be of enormous importance in gaining insight into otherwise impenetrable human minds. My friend Beverly worked as a therapist in an institution for multiply handicapped children - children both deaf and blind or paralyzed and retarded. She constructed a device that made patterns of colored lights in response to sounds made into a microphone. Debbie, a paralyzed and", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 146, "chunk_index": 210, "id": "51ffbf2d-e6fc-45b9-85c7-0ab47b4ae3f1", "word_count": 152, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 197 } }, { "page_content": "retarded victim of cerebral palsy, who lay listless and motionless in bed day and night, laughed when she first saw the lights. She heard her voice amplified, saw the lights increase, and immediately learned that she could make the lights dance herself by continuing to laugh and vocalize. This discovery, that she, Debbie, could cause an interesting event to happen, made it possible for the therapist to begin to teach Debbie to communicate. Another child, born with part of his skull missing and forced to wear a helmet at all times, had always been assumed to be totally blind, since he felt his way from spot to spot and failed to respond to any visual stimuli. Beverly was encouraging him to vocalize into her microphone for the reinforcement of hearing his own voice amplified. Then she realized the boy was orienting to the flickering colored lights, too - and vocalizing longer and longer to make the colors dance. He could see just fine. Once the staff knew that, they had a whole new \"channel\" through which this child might be reached and helped.\n\nIn an institutional setting this particular training toy ended up in a closet.\n\nBeverly had only a master's degree and was not expected to initiate innovative therapy. There were no research papers proving that the multiply handicapped could be helped with colored lights, and indeed the departure from established protocol was resented by other staff members. That is not the point. The point is that reinforcement training can provide a lot of illumination - not only to the subject but about the subject - and sometimes in just a few moments of training time.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 211, "id": "48dee758-f809-4296-ba1d-55ee28f2d76d", "word_count": 277, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 360 } }, { "page_content": "It sometimes seems to other people as if the behaviorists are preaching\n\nthat everything in human behavior is a product of learning and conditioning, and that every human ill, from wars to warts, can be cured with proper use of reinforcement. This is, of course, not so. Behavior is a rich soup of external and internal responses, learned and unlearned. Individuality is inborn, as every mother knows. (The biologist T. C. Schneirla demonstrated individual behavior even in insects.) Furtherance, a tremendous amount of what we do and feel is a product of our evolution as social animals. This includes our tendencies to cooperate and be good to each other (\"reciprocal altruism\") as well as our tendencies to react\n\naggressively if someone tromps on our ideas or property (\"territoriality\"). And then what one does or says at a given moment may depend just as much on one's physical state as on past experience or future expectations. A person who is extremely hungry or has a bad cold may behave quite differently from the same person when comfortable, regardless of what else is going on.\n\nSo reinforcement has limitations, and I see nothing wrong with that. I envision our understanding of behavior as resembling three interlocking rings. In one ring are the behaviorists such as Skinner and everything we know about learning and the acquisition of behavior; in another ring are the ethologists such as Lorenz and everything we know about the biological evolution of behavior; and in the third ring is behavior we don't yet understand well, such as play. And each ring shares part of its contents by overlapping with the other two.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 147, "chunk_index": 212, "id": "95c542e6-b34d-4391-924a-b9cea4df52ea", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "Since society does not consist entirely of exchanges of reinforcers,\n\nsocial experiments involving reinforcement in group settings have produced mixed results. For example, the use of reinforcers in a structured society - a prison, hospital, or detention home, say - may be undermined by the very people doing the reinforcing. A psychologist friend has described to me a token reinforcement system with juvenile offenders in detention that worked wonderfully in a pilot project but fell apart completely, even producing dissension and rebellion, when established at another institution. It turned out the people in charge were distributing reinforcers as instructed for classroom attendance and other desirable behavior, but they didn't smile when they handed out the tokens. And with that small lapse, which was regarded (and rightly, I think) as an insult by the macho young offenders, the whole effort crumbled.\n\nReinforcement has been used on an individual and group basis to foster\n\nnot just specific behavior but characteristics of value to society - say, a sense of responsibility. Characteristics usually considered to be \"innate\" can also be shaped. You can, for example, reinforce creativity. My son Michael, while going to art school and living in a loft in Manhattan, acquired a kitten off the streets and reinforced it for \"cuteness,\" for anything it did that amused him. I don't know how the cat defined that, but it became a most unusual cat - bold, attentive, loyal, and full of delightful surprises well into", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 148, "chunk_index": 213, "id": "cbd8885e-cf2a-462b-b07e-f82b92f73cc1", "word_count": 243, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 315 } }, { "page_content": "middle age. At Sea Life Park we shaped creativity with two dolphins - in an experiment that has now been much anthologized - by reinforcing anything the animals did that was novel and had not been reinforced before. Soon the subjects caught on and began \"inventing\" often quite amusing behaviors. One came up with wackier stuff than the other; on the whole, even in animals, degrees of creativity or imaginativeness can vary from one individual to another. But training \"shifts\" the curve for everyone, so that anyone can increase creativity from whatever baseline he or she began at.\n\nSociety, especially in the school system, is sometimes criticized for dampening creativity rather than encouraging it. I think that while such criticism is warranted, it's understandable that society would prefer the status quo. Once those dolphins learned the value of innovating, they became real nuisances, opening gates, stealing props, and inventing mischief. Innovative people are unpredictable by definition, and perhaps society can stand only a certain percentage of these types. If everybody behaved like our creative dolphins, we'd never get anything done. So, very often, individual creativity is discouraged in favor of group norms. Perhaps the courage it takes to defy that trend benefits the innovators who do succeed.\n\nI think the important impact of reinforcement theory on our society will", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 149, "chunk_index": 214, "id": "0899e795-0053-48b5-84a7-e7e6f58c6ddf", "word_count": 219, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 284 } }, { "page_content": "be not to change specific behaviors or institutions but in the effect on individuals of positive reinforcement itself. Reinforcement is information - it's information about what you are doing that is working. If we have information about how to get the environment to reinforce us, then we control our environment; we are no longer at its mercy. Indeed, our evolutionary fitness to some extent depends on such success.\n\nSo subjects like to learn through reinforcement not for the obvious reason - to get food or other rewards - but because they actually get some control over what is happening. And the reason people like to modify the behavior of others through reinforcement is that the response is so gratifying. Seeing animals brighten up, little kids' eyes shine, people bloom and glow with accomplishment you have helped them achieve, is in itself an extremely powerful reinforcer. One gets absolutely hooked on the experience of getting good results.\n\nA curious but important corollary to training by reinforcement is that it breeds affection in both subject and trainer. When I was at Sea Life Park, it happened several times that an untamed dolphin, having been shaped with a marker signal, the whistle, and food reinforcers, suddenly became quite docile, allowed itself to be petted, and solicited social attention without any effort by us to \"hand-tame\" it or train it to do so. I have seen this happen with horses, too, sometimes in a single training session, and even with several species of zoo animals that were in no way gentled or made pets of. The animals behave as if they love the trainer.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 149, "chunk_index": 215, "id": "9b2e4899-2b5a-404f-a72f-535c68f69856", "word_count": 270, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 351 } }, { "page_content": "The trainer rapidly develops an attachment, too. I remember Shanti the\n\nelephant and that wolf, D'Artagnan, with respect, and I even have a soft spot for that dunderheaded polar bear. What happens, I believe, is that the success of the training interchange tends to turn the participants into generalized conditioned reinforcers for each other. The trainer is the source of interesting, exciting, rewarding, life-enhancing events for the subject, and the subject's responses are interesting and rewarding for the trainer, so that they really do become attached. Not dependent, just attached. Comrades in the battle of life.\n\nOn the level of human interaction, good use of positive reinforcement\n\ncan have profound effects. It develops and intensifies family feelings, cements friendships, gives children courage, and teaches them to be imaginative and skilled reinforcers in turn. It makes for great sex, for sex, after all, is in part a mutual exchange of positive reinforcers. If two people get really good at reinforcing each other, they are likely to be a happy pair.\n\nGood use of reinforcement does not mean just scattering rewards around indiscriminately or never saying no. People do fall into that misconception. Once, watching a mother pushing a toddler in a stroller down the street, I noticed that every time the baby began to fret, the mother stopped, got out a little bag of healthful snacks - raisins and nuts - and fed the child, although the child did not appear particularly hungry and sometimes pushed her hand away. Trying to do the right thing, she was conscientiously offering reinforcers to the child for fussing. She was also failing to check for rumpled clothes or other discomforts that might have been making the baby fuss in the first place.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 150, "chunk_index": 216, "id": "34034419-54a9-42eb-bc09-f38f1c506690", "word_count": 288, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 374 } }, { "page_content": "None of us will ever be perfect, and I am not proposing that we should be thinking about reinforcement all the time. I am suggesting that a shift to using positive responses in interactions with others, instead of the harshness, argumentativeness, and withdrawal that are the style in many households and organizations, affects not only the individuals involved but, rippling outward, their whole portion of society.\n\nIt seems to me that American society is, for all its freedom, a punitive society. We carry a burden of Calvinistic negativeness that colors all our institutions and much of our judgment, no matter what our personal backgrounds. A switch to positive reinforcement can be a startling event. In 1981 a little town in Arizona, desperate to hang on to its good schoolteachers, set up a foundation, raised money locally, and gave cash bonuses to five teachers, selected by faculty and community vote, amounting in some cases to a month's salary. The money was presented at high school graduation, and the teachers got a spontaneous standing ovation from the students, too. By the third year of operation the program seemed to be benefiting students as well as teachers. A typical mixed bag of races, ethnic backgrounds, and rich and poor, the students were by then ranking well above average on national testings.\n\nWhat I sense as significant in this story is not the method of reinforcing\n\nthe top teachers, a good idea in itself, but the fact that the event made the wire services and was national news. Switching to positive reinforcement is at this moment in our culture a novel idea. But then, quickly becoming an acceptable idea, it is less often being dismissed as experimental or crackpot.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 151, "chunk_index": 217, "id": "c5fdc59e-66ae-421b-85b8-f54661b32138", "word_count": 285, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 370 } }, { "page_content": "It may take a generation or two, or three. I suspect that positive\n\nreinforcement - because it is now coupled with a body of theory that makes it possible to analyze what happens when things go wrong - is an idea that will over time prove to be too infectious to keep down. Most behaviorists would, I expect, agree with me, wondering only why it's taking so long.\n\nPerhaps what the humanists object to most in behaviorism is the\n\nimplication that everything in society could and should be run by intent (as much of it is already - but badly run). I think this is a baseless fear. Skinner's imaginary society, Walden Two, set up entirely on contingencies of reinforcement, would not, in my opinion as a biologist, work out. Idealistic societies, in imagination or in practice, sometimes fail to take into\n\naccount or seek to eliminate such biological facts as status conflict. We are social animals, after all, and as such we must establish dominance hierarchies. Competition within groups for increased status - in all channels, not just approved or ordained channels - is absolutely inevitable and in fact performs an important social function: Whether in Utopias or herds of horses, the existence of a fully worked-out hierarchy operates to reduce conflict. You know where you stand, so you don't have to keep growling to prove it. I feel that individual and group status, and many other human needs and tendencies, are too complex to be either met or overridden by planned arrangements of reinforcement, at least on a long-term basis.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 151, "chunk_index": 218, "id": "3bf6ddd4-8d72-4a38-826f-c59f67238bb5", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "What bothers the behaviorists, in turn, is their recognition of the many situations in society where proper use of reinforcement principles could be effective and where we stubbornly, stupidly, unceasingly prefer to do it wrong. For instance: giving arms and aid to countries we hope will regard us favorably. Come on! Rewarding someone else in hope of gain to oneself doesn't work; it backfires even on the simplest level. (\"She only invited me to her party so I'd bring a present; I hate her.\" \"Aunt Tilly's being extraordinarily nice today; wonder what the old bat wants this time.\") I'm also not sure that our being tough on countries that misbehave is any better. What if they don't care? What if they wanted to get us mad in the first place?\n\nI realize this may be simplistic, but I also think it is simple-minded to go on and on behaving as a nation in ways that any clicker trainer can tell you are guaranteed not to work. As a nation, as well as on an individual level, we ought to be continuously asking ourselves the trainer's fundamental question: What am I actually reinforcing?\n\nThe laws of reinforcement are powerful tools. But the rule book is far more versatile than some people have supposed, in fact more versatile than some people would like it to be. To be using reinforcement is to be involved in a process of continual change, of continual give-and-take, of continual growth. One becomes aware of the dualistic, two-way nature of this communion. One becomes more aware of others and, inevitably, more aware of oneself. It could be said that training is a process that requires one to be both inside and outside of one's own skin at the same time. Who is the trainer and who is the trained? Both change and both learn.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 152, "chunk_index": 219, "id": "1b1ded4a-d148-4d40-8d98-88009a3d7d9e", "word_count": 307, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 399 } }, { "page_content": "Some people have seen reinforcement theory as a method of control, of manipulation, of restriction of individuals and society. But societal changes must begin with personal changes - with shifts in what benefits the individual - just as species changes must begin in the individual gene. Social change cannot be dictated from above - at least not for long. (Orwell's 1984 is wrong, biologically.) Living creatures have a right not only to food and shelter but to a reinforcing environment. The use and understanding of reinforcement is an individual experience, which may lead to benefits for all. Far from being constricting, it frees each one of us to experience, be aware of, and enhance not the mechanistic aspects of living but the rich and wonderful diversity of all behavior.\n\nWhen Don't Shoot the Dog! was first published in 1984, applied behavior analysis was still not in general use. Thirty years of dolphin training had not led to other applications. The academic community, while successfully using behavior analysis in corporate and institutional settings, had not come up with easily understood ways for untrained people to use their science. But with dog owners it was beginning to be different. Ian Dunbar, D.VM., a tremendously talented and influential dog behaviorist, had been writing about and teaching noncoercive, behavior-oriented training for pet owners, and he was recommending Don't Shoot the Dog!", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 153, "chunk_index": 220, "id": "e6a09495-79ba-4e39-bedd-8ffd8cf80eef", "word_count": 227, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 295 } }, { "page_content": "It was B. F. Skinner himself who first suggested using clickers with dogs, in the 1960s. But I feel that clicker training began in May 1992, with a panel discussion between trainers and scientists at the Association for Behavior Analysis meetings in San Francisco. This was followed a few days later by a \"Don't Shoot the Dog!\" seminar for 250 dog trainers that I conducted along with dog trainer Gary Wilkes and marine mammal trainer Ingrid Shallenberger. The little plastic clickers Gary had located in a novelty shop made great teaching tools as well as marker signals. People took to them. One dog-training seminar led to others. These public\n\nseminars, and the books, videos, and Internet activities they spawned, were, I believe, the start of the clicker-training movement.\n\nThe people in the seminar audiences were not necessarily professional trainers, though they might be keen hobbyists. They were attorneys, pilots, law enforcement officers, teachers, computer programmers, business executives, dentists, doctors, and journalists. They were people with lively interests, lots of energy, and an analytical turn of mind. They began teaching others. Soon thousands of people were trying clicker training and taking it farther than we who kicked it off could ever do on our own.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 153, "chunk_index": 221, "id": "2623bd0b-b892-4a0f-ade4-b5e328b1a1ca", "word_count": 204, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 265 } }, { "page_content": "Two young women in Virginia made a video showing how to use the clicker to teach dogs about thirty tricks, ranging from the easy (ring a bell to be let out) to the fiendishly difficult (pass the biscuit from one dog to another). Steve White, a K-9 police officer in Seattle, developed a clicker- training system for training patrol dogs. One of his canine graduates caught three \"bad guys\" on its first night on the streets (and its tail was wagging the whole time, a characteristic of clicker dogs). Rosemary Besenick, in Texas, began teaching wheelchair-bound clients, some of whom were developmentally disabled as well, to train their own helper dogs. Dog fanciers clicker-trained show-ring behaviors and won at Westminster.\n\nKathleen Weaver, another police dog trainer and a high-school computer instructor in Texas, established an online discussion list for clicker trainers, and two thousand signed up. Clicker trainers set up websites, exchanging questions and ideas. (See Resources.) Several behavior analysts jumped on board the Internet and helped to solve problems and improve our understanding of the vocabulary of the science. Chief among these was Marian Breland Bailey, a scientist who had been one of Skinner's first graduate students, and her husband Bob. The Baileys lavished time and teaching skills on the Internet clicker community, winning new recognition from their scientific colleagues and a new public audience.\n\nAn astronomer in New Mexico, Helix Fairweather, opened a website to", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 154, "chunk_index": 222, "id": "7b0333d8-d104-4321-95ee-83f42b4d3d52", "word_count": 237, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 308 } }, { "page_content": "maintain an archive of the most important and useful posts on the ever- growing lists: the so-called \"keeper\" posts. Alexandra Kurland, a riding instructor and horse trainer in upper New York State, developed the application of clicker training for horses - all kinds of horses and all kinds of tasks, including retraining dangerously aggressive horses.\n\nNew clicker trainers shared their achievements on the Internet. People with no previous training skills were teaching their dogs how to find the car keys or TV remote, how to bring in the firewood, and how to open the refrigerator, select the right drink (the soda, not the salad dressing), close the refrigerator, and bring the drink to the person who asked for it. Then there was the great Internet Hot Dog Challenge: Can you train your dog to retrieve a whole hot dog without eating it? Of course. The real show-offs taught the cheeseburger retrieve as well - though everyone agreed the cheeseburger arrived a bit too slimy for human consumption.\n\nWhat was happening was a sort of group creation of a new technology: a\n\nnew application of an existing science. You could never do this physically; you could never, for example, have that many students in one graduate program, or that many thinkers communicating effectively face-to-face. As Canadian clicker trainer Diana Hilliard observed, the Internet gave us a sort of global Manhattan Project: good minds, and a lot of them, working together on one technology.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 154, "chunk_index": 223, "id": "d1410701-dd36-41f4-9614-a2a4f6ef3f2a", "word_count": 242, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 314 } }, { "page_content": "Due to the explosion of clicker training, I began to observe some long- term and more general effects of reinforcement training that I couldn't have imagined earlier. In a paper published by the New York Academy of Sciences in 1981, I pointed out that the qualities people attribute to dolphins - playfulness, intelligence, curiosity, friendliness to humans, and so on - are perhaps due not so much to the dolphins themselves as to the way we train them. Now I had the evidence firsthand. Any creature - a dog, a horse, a polar bear, even a fish - that you shape with positive reinforcers and a marker signal becomes playful, intelligent, curious, and interested in you. What, you don't believe the fish? For video purposes I shaped a cichlid fish (Astronotus oscellatus) to swim through a hoop and to follow a target. (The blink of a flashlight made a good marker signal.) While these fish, commonly called oscars, are known for their tameness and intelligence, I'd never seen one go this far. That fish became king of the castle in my house, splashing water and banging its tank lid to attract attention, touching noses with little children through the glass, and threatening visiting dogs by spreading its fins and gills and making attack-feints. It became, to a quite\n\nastonishing extent, playful, intelligent, curious, and friendly, for its five- year life, even though it had long been retired from show biz - and got all its food free.\n\nWhatever the species, another long-term effect of clicker training is that", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 155, "chunk_index": 224, "id": "f9a54c05-2e92-47a1-8692-fbe48b6fd1e0", "word_count": 258, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 335 } }, { "page_content": "behavior, once learned, is not forgotten. Fifteen years ago I knew this was true for the dolphins, but I couldn't be sure it wasn't special to them. Now I know better. One of the most common reactions, when conventional dog trainers switch over to clicker training, is their astonishment at how incredibly well the dogs retain what they've learned. You don't have to keep retraining the behavior and polishing it and brushing it up, the way you do with correction-trained behaviors. Put in the behavior, and it's there forever. I suspect (though no formal data that I know of yet prove it) that this high rate of retention might be one of the fundamental differences not only between training with positive reinforcers and aversives but between training with a marker signal, and training with just primary reinforcers.\n\nHere's one of my favorite examples of long-term retention from a single\n\ntraining episode. [From Karen Pryor on Behavior: Essays and Research (Sunshine Books, 1995).] One night after dinner, to amuse my cousins' children, I taught their cat to play the piano. With the word good as a marker signal and bits of ham as the primary reinforcer, I shaped the behavior of the cat sitting on the piano bench and plunking at the keys with one paw. (With most cats this takes about five minutes. Cats like to train people to produce treats predictably.) After that evening no one ever asked the cat to do it again, nor did the cat offer the behavior.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 156, "chunk_index": 225, "id": "4a3b35f0-4615-43e4-91fe-81670b7666a8", "word_count": 252, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 327 } }, { "page_content": "One morning two years later my cousin called to tell me that the previous night they were awakened by ghostly sounds from downstairs: Someone seemed to be playing the piano. On investigation, he found that the living-room doors, as usual, had been shut to conserve heat. And inside the living room, the cat, who normally slept upstairs in the bedroom, was sitting on the piano bench. When, one presumes, the normal responses of meowing and perhaps scratching at the door didn't work, the cat offered a\n\nlearned behavior to ask, not for food this time, but for its preferred sleeping place. The effort was a success.\n\nAnother newly apparent element of clicker training is the acceleration of\n\nlearning that occurs with it. Competent clicker trainers (some of whom achieve competency almost from the beginning) may accomplish in days behavior that takes months or years to establish by conventional training. The most clear-cut examples I have found so far are in the dog obedience world, where traditional training methods are quite standardized. The testing process is also very uniform. People have been developing and testing this very precise set of behaviors for decades. So a change can show up clearly\n\nConventional training procedures usually require a year or even two to", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 156, "chunk_index": 226, "id": "3dea8284-c985-402a-bfdd-c968e2b8f1b8", "word_count": 210, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 273 } }, { "page_content": "develop a Novice competitor, another year or two for Open competition, and another year or two for Utility, the highest testing level. Now people are clicker-training dogs to do the same behaviors in far less time. One person went from buying a dog to finishing all three levels of competition in a little over a year. Another dog owner taught her Australian cattle dog all the Utility hand signals for down, come, sit, and so on, in three minutes, by the clock. Another woman passed the three qualifying legs of the Novice competition, with very nice scores, with a ten-year-old Irish setter she'd trained for only three weeks. (Excuse me, but the breed is not known for intellect.) The dog died of old age shortly thereafter, and the owner said she wished she had found this wonderful method of communication earlier in his life. This is accelerated learning for trainer and trainee both.\n\nSome people dismiss these reports of superfast learning as testimonials, but for me they have become diagnostic tools. When experienced traditional trainers \"cross over\" to clicker training - and tell me excitedly that something that used to take months just happened in a week, or a morning, or a minute - I can be pretty sure, even without seeing them work, that they've learned the two basic elements of clicker training. First, they have the clicker timing down pat, and second, they have also grasped the idea of raising criteria in small steps but quickly. Incidentally, another indicator that\n\nthe new clicker trainer is using the technology correctly is that he or she spontaneously transfers the training from one species to another: \"I taught my horse three things in a morning, and then I came into the house and clicker-trained the dog, the cat, and the guinea pig.\" Click!", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 157, "chunk_index": 227, "id": "5b50858e-6064-4d2d-8d01-780215362728", "word_count": 302, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 392 } }, { "page_content": "Wouldn't it be fun to have data on the quickness with which clicker training works? I'm hoping some graduate student will make use of the competitive obedience community's rich database to scientifically compare conventional methods and the new technology.\n\nA frequent and understandable objection to the idea of clicker training is\n\nthat you wouldn't want to be stuck having to click and treat for the rest of your subject's natural life. This, of course, is a misconception. The click is not intrinsic to maintaining the behavior; any old cue and any kind of reinforcer can do that. The click is for the training only. Once the learner has learned what you set out to teach it, you can put the clicker away. But you might use it again if you need to \"explain\" some new thing; you can communicate quite specific information with your clicker.\n\nFor example, my friend Patricia Brewington owns a clicker-trained Percheron gelding named James. Pat and her husband Daucy trained James with the clicker from babyhood through all his mature tasks of carrying riders, pulling wagons and sleighs, and hauling logs out of the woods. When James was fully educated, the clicker and food treats were no longer needed. James knew and complied with many voice cues and hand signals. He visibly enjoyed praise and patting as reinforcers for work well done; and also ice cubes, playing with balls, ringing his sleigh-bells with his nose, coming into the barn, going out of the barn, being allowed to watch whatever the people were doing, and many other daily-life reinforcers.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 228, "id": "b5635172-315b-40ea-a47b-97f3c5e13edf", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "One day James developed an abscess in his foot. The vet decreed that the foot should be soaked periodically. So Pat got a bucket of warm water, set it next to James, and put his foot into the bucket. James took it out. Pat put it in. James took it out. Now James is a very large horse, and Pat is a small woman. Physical force was not an option; and Pat almost never scolds her horses. What to do? She went in the house and found a clicker. She\n\ncame back out to the barn. She put James's foot in the bucket - and clicked. Pat described his response metaphorically, as reinforcement trainers often do: \"Ohhh! You mean keep my foot in the bucket. Oh, okay.\" No carrot was needed to seal the bargain; James just hadn't understood what was wanted, and when he did understand, he didn't mind doing it.\n\nDuring my dolphin-training days I published a paper called \"The\n\nCreative Porpoise: Training for Novel Behavior,\" describing some work we had done at Sea Life Park. This journal article became a psychology- classroom classic, used by professors year after year to pique students' interest in operant conditioning. Once again it wasn't entirely clear to me whether the capacity for inventing new behavior was special to dolphins or due to the training system. Now I can say with some certainty that creativity, or at least experimentation and initiative, is an intrinsic by- product of clicker training - in the trainer for sure, and in the learner as well.\n\nThe learner trained with a conditioned reinforcer is engaged in a kind of", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 158, "chunk_index": 229, "id": "b0fed15a-6648-410e-9290-1cdb50ba6516", "word_count": 272, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 353 } }, { "page_content": "game: how to come up with behavior that will make the teacher click. If you watched a child playing this game, you wouldn't hesitate to say that it makes her want to learn - or even that it makes her think. Might that not also be true of animals?\n\nI once videotaped a beautiful Arabian mare who was being clicker- trained to prick her ears on command, so as to look alert in the show ring. She clearly knew that a click meant a handful of grain. She clearly knew her actions made her trainer click. And she knew it had something to do with her ears. But what? Holding her head erect, she rotated her ears individually: one forward, one back; then the reverse; then she flopped both ears to the sides like a rabbit, something I didn't know a horse could do on purpose. Finally, both ears went forward at once. Click! Aha! She had it straight from then on. It was charming, but it was also sad: We don't usually ask horses to think or to be inventive, and they seem to like to do it.\n\nSome owners of clicker-wise dogs have become so accustomed to canine initiative and experimentation that they rely on the dog \"offering behaviors,\" both learned and new, as a standard part of the training process.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 159, "chunk_index": 230, "id": "8510de34-3509-4546-85e0-c2b22f716606", "word_count": 223, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 289 } }, { "page_content": "Many clicker trainers play a game with their dogs that I have nicknamed \"101 Things to Do with a Box\" (or a chair, or a ball, or a toy). Using essentially the same procedure we used at Sea Life Park to develop \"creativity\" in a dolphin, in each session the dog is clicked for some new way of manipulating the object. For example, you might put a cardboard box on the floor and click the dog for sniffing it and then for bumping it with his nose, until he's pushing it around the room. The next time, you might let the dog discover that pushing the box no longer gets clicked but that pawing it or stepping over the side and eventually getting into the box is what works. The dog might also come up with dragging the box, or lifting and carrying the box. One dog, faced anew with the challenge of the box game, got all his toys and put them into the box. Click! My Border terrier once tipped the box over onto herself and then scooted around under it, creating the spectacle of a mysterious traveling box. Everyone in the room laughed hysterically, which seemed to please her. Some dogs are just as clever at coming up with new ideas as any dolphin could be; and dogs, like dolphins - and horses - seem to love this challenging clicker game.\n\nA much-debated element in clicker training, both by insiders and", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 231, "id": "b2635f18-f0cb-46c0-903f-03edbeb61be5", "word_count": 244, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 317 } }, { "page_content": "outsiders, is the absence of punishment. Conventional wisdom - and some psychologists - still hold that you should praise the good and punish the bad, and the result will be some kind of perfection in the middle. In fact, many of the problems people have in conventional training arise directly from the use of punishment. That Arabian mare had become unshowable because of a conventional method used for making a horse prick its ears: You swish a whip around its head (and hit it with the whip, now and then, back in the barn, so it knows the whip is dangerous). This mare had taken to laying her ears back and looking ugly instead of alert, a behavior that intensified with more punishment. Thus the remedial clicker training.\n\nDuring training sessions, clicker trainers are finding if they mix reinforcement of desirable behavior with punishment or correction of behavior that they don't want, good things stop happening. First, the accelerated learning stops, as the subject goes back to learning at the \"normal\" rate: slowly. Second, if they're not careful, the subject stops\n\nlearning altogether - and stops wanting to learn, which is worse. As a child might drag himself unwillingly to school, dawdling along the way, dogs can show reluctance to perform, and stress when in the training situation. They pant, they yawn; they'd rather be elsewhere. But it's not unusual for clicker- trained dogs to actually initiate training sessions and to show enthusiasm by rushing eagerly into the training area.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 160, "chunk_index": 232, "id": "3b2886d6-2646-4a72-a0a0-05735dabb5a5", "word_count": 250, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 325 } }, { "page_content": "I am not saying that clicker trainers never say no. Of course, you might\n\nreprimand a dog for eyeing the hors d'oeuvres on the coffee table, or restrain it with a leash on a crowded sidewalk. But we avoid using punishment, or its euphemism \"correction,\" as a learning tool. During a training session the animal is free to take a chance, to make a guess, to try to come up on its own with reinforceable behavior. If it guesses wrong, fine. The worst that can happen is no click. In this safe arena learners quickly discover ways to show you the very best they are capable of, and that leads to wonderful results.\n\nHere's another side effect of clicker training that people report over and\n\nover again: the global behavior of the learner changes. A punished or correction-trained animal learns to give the minimum necessary in order to stay out of trouble. These learners are \"good soldiers\": They do what they're told, and they never volunteer. Under this regimen, even if obedient, learners remain far more interested in their own doings and private life than in whatever you or any voice of authority might want. They are therefore not only vulnerable to distractions, they are hoping for distractions. Furthermore, when pushed too hard or punished too much, these learners get mad or quit. This is just the suite of behaviors we see in most household dogs, in many employees - and in kids in school.\n\nIn contrast, clicker training is fun, for trainer and learner both. Play is an", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 233, "id": "a8396684-5699-4a49-916b-d0acec5b10cb", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "important component. I've seen a profoundly low-functioning teenager laugh when she first got a click for a new behavior, and sign \"play\" when she saw the clicker, a sign her teacher didn't know she knew. Clicker trainers have learned to recognize play behavior in animals as a sign that the learner has become consciously aware of what behavior was being\n\nreinforced. When \"the light bulb goes on,\" as clicker trainers put it, dogs gambol and bark, horses prance and toss their heads, and elephants, I am told, run around in circles chirping. They are happy. They are excited. That's reinforcing in itself. This event is predictable and replicable, and it is almost certainly accompanied by physiological changes, another fertile area for research.\n\nWhen an animal participates at this level, the click acquires enormous value. It is worth, much more than the food. Both the sound and the object that produces it become reinforcing. Here's an example. Debbie Davis is a clicker-training instructor who teaches disabled people to train their own service dogs. She herself is wheelchair-bound, and her service dog is a papillon, a little black and white toy breed about the size of a cat. The dog is very useful, in spite of his size. He can retrieve pencils, find the TV remote, and pull laundry out of the dryer. When he and Debbie go to training class, this little dog gets down off her lap, goes around under the chairs, gets into people's training equipment bags, and steals clickers: \"Here, Mom - can't have too many of these, can we!\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 161, "chunk_index": 234, "id": "da7c2ad4-7c34-4c6c-9cf5-ba79193e9994", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "The laws of learning, like the laws of physics, apply to all of us, but visualizing the applications is not always easy. New clicker trainers often ask, with an embarrassed giggle, \"Does this work with children?\" (Or spouses?) Of course it could. But you have to learn how to do it. For example, shutting up about what you don't like, in order to wait for and reinforce behavior you do like, is counterintuitive and takes some practice.\n\nExperiencing clicker training with a pet turned out to be a great place to start. People began to generalize their understanding. Seminar participants were making comments like these:\n\n\"I stopped jerking my dogs around - and then I realized what I was still\n\n\"I used to run my dental office staff with instruction and correction. Now I use shaping and reinforcement. You know what? The turnover dropped to zero.\"\n\n\"This has been nice for my dogs - but for me it has changed the way I\n\nClicker training, so simple and straightforward, had given people not just intellectual insight but also a new set of tactics to apply across many behavioral settings.\n\nNowadays this transfer of applications has become commonplace in the", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 162, "chunk_index": 235, "id": "0187d982-1f69-4ffb-a0c6-9e717cdd965a", "word_count": 199, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 258 } }, { "page_content": "clicker community. Clicker trainers in the teaching professions - high school and college teachers, special ed teachers, physical therapists, caregivers in group homes - use the technology in their work. Parents of children with various developmental or physical deficits share with me what they are doing with and for their children, with their new skills. A mother is teaching her high-functioning autistic daughter to make appropriate social conversation, through shaping and reinforcement. Parents are improving the skills of their children with disabilities, from eating to dressing to walking and talking, with reinforcers and a marker signal.\n\nUnderstanding reinforcement training can't repair physical or neurological deficits, and it won't replace the help that only skilled professionals can give, but it can make life easier for everyone. Parents are learning to shape appropriate behavior instead of accidentally reinforcing inappropriate behavior: to reinforce silence, not noise; play, not tantrums. It is not that they are \"treating their children like animals,\" an ever-popular prejudiced attack; clicker training is not about animals or people. It's about better ways of teaching and learning.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 163, "chunk_index": 236, "id": "93d08778-c0ea-4ab1-aa42-121c7543f434", "word_count": 177, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 230 } }, { "page_content": "Best of all, you don't need a Ph.D. to be an effective shaper. Recently I was driving home from an outing with my daughter and her family when her fourteen-month-old baby began to yell. He wasn't crying - yet, anyway - he was just making a very loud noise to protest the length of the drive and his incarceration in his car seat; and we were still twenty minutes from home. My seven-year-old grandson Wylie, in the backseat with his little brother, calmly got rid of the yelling by reinforcing longer and longer periods of silence. The marker? Wylie's grin. The reinforcer? One lick of Wylie's lollipop.\n\nWhen I recently taught a course in shaping and reinforcement to about fifty educators, I asked them to do a shaping project. Sharon Ames, a speech\n\nand language pathologist, chose her three-and-a-half-year-old twins. Her shaping challenge was this: Though eight P.M. was the twins' supposed bedtime, it was taking three hours or more to get the little darlings to sleep every night.\n\nSharon introduced pennies, dropped into jars, as the reinforcer. In the morning each twin would be able to cash in the pennies for prizes. The first night the kids got a click - and a penny - for each stage of the go-to-bed process. Click for getting in the bath. Click for getting out, click for getting into pajamas, and so on. Then, when the lights went out, they got a click (and a penny, of course) if they were on their beds - not in them, just on them - every time Sharon came back in the room.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 163, "chunk_index": 237, "id": "5198c678-64fa-4aed-84b3-45453be3bfa9", "word_count": 268, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 348 } }, { "page_content": "The first night she came in once a minute for the first half hour - that's thirty clicks - and then once every five minutes for another hour, by which time the children were asleep. The second night, she thinned the reinforcement schedule to every ten minutes, and within an hour, they were asleep. The third night the twins went to sleep right away. In three days the time it took to get the twins to bed and to sleep went from three hours a night to about twenty minutes, a comfortable level, and there it stayed. The twins endorsed the clicker. \"Can we play the clicker game some more?\" The reinforcer for Sharon and her husband was, of course, a real jackpot: a full nights sleep.\n\nThe Ames family then incorporated clicker training into their daily life. (Sharon told me they found it more effective to click very occasionally, but with bigger reinforcers.) Sharon's mother sometimes baby-sits for them, and Sharon showed her mother how to use the clicker with the twins. Then Sharon's mother adopted a dog. She complained about some behavior problems with her new pet. \"Why don't you use the clicker?\" Sharon said.\n\nHer mother looked dubious. \"Well, of course, it's wonderful for children,\n\nAs I write this, I'm personally involved in developing two new human applications. One is the use of the clicker - in this case, an electronic \"black box\" clicker that plugs into a headset - in flight training. A click is not only", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 164, "chunk_index": 238, "id": "0f399c8d-90d5-4b76-8b96-5d55289c18e8", "word_count": 251, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 326 } }, { "page_content": "more accurate, it permits reinforcement of behavior that is difficult to get at in other ways. For example, when turning to look at the instruments, you should take your hands off the airplane's controls to prevent accidentally turning the plane. However, as car drivers we've all learned to never take our hands off the wheel. Untraining a learned behavior is always much more tiresome than training a new one. A verbal reminder or correction takes far too long and comes too late. A click, however, can mark the smallest lift of the hands and pin it down forever.\n\nA flight instructor can also click a student for initiative and for good thinking: for example, for glancing over the instrument panel before being reminded to do so. So the clicker can reward nonverbal behavior nonverbally in the instant it's occurring. My son Michael Pryor, a pilot and the project developer, reports from preliminary data that in learning a skill such as instrument flying, clicking seems to build competency faster, and what's learned is retained well. Every pilot I've talked to since this project started pricks up his or her ears at the possibility of maintaining instrument rating and skills without having to go back into the simulator quite so often.\n\nClicker training is also much more enjoyable for the student. Michael Pryor says, \"When you don't get clicked, and you thought you would, you escalate your movements. You try harder to find the thing you should be doing. And then when you do get a click, there's this neat feeling of winning. It's a lot better than getting yelled at.\"", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 165, "chunk_index": 239, "id": "abc13c66-2bbf-4dc4-8096-fced9b88f05e", "word_count": 269, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 349 } }, { "page_content": "My second project involves my consulting work with the New England\n\nCenter for Children, in Southborough, Massachusetts. The New England Center, with a five-hundred-person staff and two hundred students, is one of the leading U.S. centers devoted to children with developmental deficits, especially autism. We are exploring the use of an event marker - sometimes a clicker, sometimes not - with children diagnosed with autism and other developmental deficits. The young and energetic teachers at the center, who supply around-the-clock, one-on-one, hands-on care for these challenging children, are college graduates, usually with a major in education or a related field. From the center they receive intensive on-the-job training in behavior analysis and its applications. What the clicker adds to their skills, at least to start, is a clear-cut piece of positive information for those children\n\nwho can't or don't respond to spoken language; and feedback for the teachers on their own timing and escalation of criteria.\n\nMy year and a half of consulting has given me great hope that we will be able to document some of our preliminary observations. We've noticed that some behaviors that children with deficits are customarily taught seemed to benefit from using a marker signal along with a preferred edible treat. Such behaviors might include improved physical skills, improved eye contact, willingness to attend, and compliance with instructions. Some teachers I worked with used clicker training to reduce or eliminate resistance, in very easily upset children, to such necessary procedures as tooth brushing, haircuts, and taking temperatures. And sometimes the children really seem to be having fun.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 165, "chunk_index": 240, "id": "a58254b0-39bc-447d-b5bd-c1dc2ef9d3a4", "word_count": 262, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 340 } }, { "page_content": "I wish to emphasize that none of this is proven yet to scientifically acceptable standards. One great benefit of having the New England Center, a strongly research-oriented institution, take an interest in this exploration is that it might lift us clicker trainers out of anecdotal and descriptive uses of the application and make a data-based contribution to learning theory and its applications.\n\nWhat's next? Trainers have been joining the Association for Behavior\n\nAnalysis (ABA) and presenting papers and symposia at the annual meetings. The training community is meanwhile dipping further and further into the science, some even going back to school for advanced degrees. We are learning to name and recognize concepts we used only intuitively in the past, such as fluency latency, and adduction.\n\nI have been fascinated, through the ABA, to discover a group of\n\nresearchers and educators who are seeing in their schoolrooms many of the phenomena we clicker trainers see. The applications they have developed are called Precision Teaching and Direct Instruction. The technology is tremendously effective. I visited one of the primary sites, a laboratory school in Seattle named Morning-side Academy, established by Kent Johnson, Ph.D., and run by principal Joanne Robbins. The school takes only sixty children at a time. Most students at this school have been diagnosed with attention deficit disorder, hyperactivity or learning disabilities. No child is accepted unless he or she is at least two years behind grade level in", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 166, "chunk_index": 241, "id": "c57e67bb-77c1-4875-92eb-36043186eb06", "word_count": 239, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 310 } }, { "page_content": "school. Morningside charges a respectable tuition, but it offers a full refund if the child does not improve by two full grade levels per year.\n\nThey have never had to give anyone their money back.\n\nWhat do they do to make this happen? Everything a child needs to know\n\nto succeed academically is broken down into small steps. The steps are trained one by one, in very short sessions, with the kids tracking their own progress. The gains are self-reinforcing - you keep beating your own previous time and raising your own skill level - but they also can pay off in reinforcers such as computer time or computer games (which of course are all based on escalating reinforcement schedules).\n\neven though they are easily fixed. In one classroom I leaned over the shoulder of a nine-year-old boy who was working on writing the numbers from zero to nine as fast as he could, over and over, for one minute, for, in effect, a click. He's smart, but somehow the school system failed to teach him to write numbers clearly and quickly. That little glitch in his training might have made a nightmare out of everything in his future career, from algebra to jotting down a girl's phone number. So fix it now.\n\nThat of course is just a tiny sample of this educational application of operant conditioning. The Morningside Model is spreading. Dr. Johnson and his partner, T.Y Joe Layng, Ph.D., are also running a much larger program in the Chicago school system, and there are other related programs elsewhere.\n\nThe transformation of school systems so that they actually work will be,", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 167, "chunk_index": 242, "id": "5b2fb4de-9645-4cd9-bc6d-b261a746e06e", "word_count": 273, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 354 } }, { "page_content": "I hope and expect, partly due to science, and innovators like Layng and Johnson, and partly due to parents. To make any of this work, you have to do something yourself. You cannot just hire an expert and say \"Fix my dog,\" or \"Fix my child,\" or even, \"Fix the school system.\" You are the primary trainer. This is a participation sport.\n\nI believe the general public's attitude about this branch of science has changed considerably in the last fifteen years. There are still people who shudder at the very name of Skinner, which conjures in their minds some\n\namalgam of Brave New World, mind control, and electric shock. But for every one of those there are many more people who are comfortable with the concept of positive reinforcement.\n\nSome just give it lip service, of course. As Kathleen Weaver, the founder of the Internet Clicker List, points out, we trainers mean much more by the term clicker training than mere clicker-using. Clicker \"users,\" who may call themselves \"positive\" or \"motivational\" trainers, might borrow that particular device, the clicker, to mark their choice of specific behaviors. But then they go on using punishment, physical coercion, and all the other aversive tools of conventional training as well.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 167, "chunk_index": 243, "id": "1b1e8dbf-0511-4f21-9fa1-5fdaf5046a66", "word_count": 206, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 267 } }, { "page_content": "Clicker trainers, by contrast, may use any sort of stimulus as a marker signal; they attach no superstitious magic to the clicker itself. But they also consciously avoid superstitious behavior (such as escalation of punishment). And their toolkit consists of the full panoply of shaping, positive reinforcement, and related operant conditioning laws. They are the ones, whether working with children or adults, or horses or dogs, or any other animal, who reap the benefits - rapid learning, long retention, happy, participating learners, and pure fun - of the technology we call clicker training.\n\nPerhaps the multitudinous minds working on the new technology will come up with a more distinguished and generic name for this approach than clicker training; I hope so. But that ultimate identifier might not be in English. Thanks to the Internet, clicker training has become a planetary phenomenon. The Clicker List might hear one day from sled-dog trainers in Finland who use reindeer bone whistles (metal ones freeze to your lips) to click their dogs, and the next day from a poodle owner in Bosnia or a veterinarian in Singapore. Or an Englishwoman writes of teaching her pet hedgehog to fetch. In 1998 my website, www.dontshootthedog.com, was receiving 150,000 \"hits\" a month, from at least forty different nations monthly.\n\nThere is a buzz, a feeling of excitement, in all this shared\n\ncommunication, experimentation, and discovery. The early days of development of any technology must have been much the same: the early days of flying, or of radio, when kids in remote farms tuned in on crystal", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 168, "chunk_index": 244, "id": "25889eb0-a8d1-4d2c-bcb7-95011614d1c8", "word_count": 259, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 336 } }, { "page_content": "sets if only to hear a distant time signal. We are pioneering. We don't know where we will end up yet.\n\nAaron Lynch, author of Thought Contagion, quotes from communication engineering science on the special communication involved in the spread of a technology. For a technology to spread fast, he says, it has to have three characteristics: It must be easy; it must have visible benefits to the user; and it must be something that can be learned in small increments. Clicker training fits the bill. That's certainly what happened for the dog owners. When people see a conventionally trained dog in action, they tend to say, \"That must have taken years, I could never do that.\" Or, \"My dog could never be that smart.\" In contrast, people see a clicker-trained dog in action and exclaim: \"How did you do that? Can I do it? Show me. Let me try.\"\n\nYou can't tell, in advance, what particular event will be the hook for each\n\nnew group of users. Alexandra Kurland's horses and clients, working in a big boarding stables with dozens of other people around every day, were learning all kinds of new skills and at tremendous rates; but it was all dismissed by the onlookers as \"that crazy clicker stuff\" - until she taught a horse to retrieve. To fetch a toy, like a dog. Suddenly everyone in the stables had to have a retrieving horse. \"How'd you do that? Can I do it too?\"\n\nIn a recent e-mail Alex wrote, \"It's done. We can't put the genie back in\n\nI hope she's right about the genie and the bottle.\n\nI know she's right about the fun. It has always been fun.", "metadata": { "source": "data/DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "page": 169, "chunk_index": 245, "id": "b8d07685-fa09-45a0-b5ef-eb77f6254b78", "word_count": 283, "book_title": "Don't Shoot the Dog", "book_description": "Positive training methods", "book_filename": "DoNotShoottheDog.pdf", "token_count_approx": 367 } } ]