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thread-28 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/28 | How to 3D print a bike? | 2016-01-12T19:39:43.650 | # Question
Title: How to 3D print a bike?
I've seen article about World's First 3D Printed Bike.
What kind of printer is required to do that, briefly how long it takes and how much does it cost? Is this even achievable at home? Doesn't need to be that specific one.
# Answer
> 5 votes
You will need a laser sintering or lasercusing printer, which will not be something you can buy for home use. They are horribly expensive.
You could always print this in PLA or ABS and cast it in aluminium. Then you have to find a safe method to test the result, because casting is not quite as simple as it looks and the bike could be seriously dangerous.
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Tags: cost, estimation
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thread-38 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/38 | Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm | 2016-01-12T19:59:15.953 | # Question
Title: Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm
I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.
How can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?
# Answer
In theory, making filament is easy. You take a 3 mm hotend with a 1.75 mm hole, and extrude the 3 mm (sometimes actually 2.85 mm) filament, let it cool, and then reel it up.
In reality there are a lot of pitfalls to making filament - if the pressure isn't even, the hole not perfect, the temperature uneven, you can end up with oval filament, filament with bubbles, or worse. If you are over temperature you may damage the filament and it could look good, but not melt correctly when used. If you reel it too fast you may thin it out more than the intended diameter, or too slow and you may thicken it. A lot of hotends use steppers, which may result in ripples in the filament, so you may end up building a nearly custom filament machine.
Resolving all these problems is probably not worth simply selling or giving away the filament to someone that can use it, and buying the right size for your machine.
If you are still interested, though, you might as well go all the way and build a full filament extruder that accepts raw plastic feedstock (usually pellets) as well as your filament, and convert it that way, then continue using it to create your own filament.
> 7 votes
# Answer
The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75 mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).
The next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system such as the filastruder.
> 5 votes
# Answer
You could build a machine that has a nozzle with 3 mm input hole and 1.75 mm output hole, based on some designs for filament making machines. Or you could just cut the filament into little peaces and use them instead of the granulate in an original filament making machines.
There are some open designs for such machines you can build, or you could buy one, such as Filabot.
However, as mentioned by kaine, this is very unlikely to be worth the cost/effort. Best option for you is to try to sell the 3 mm filament to someone who has a use for it, take the money and buy some 1.75 mm filament instead.
> 3 votes
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Tags: filament, filament-production
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thread-33 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/33 | How many times printed printer can print it-self? | 2016-01-12T19:52:25.430 | # Question
Title: How many times printed printer can print it-self?
There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.
Assuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?
For example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?
# Answer
> 16 votes
The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.
This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print isn't perfect, it will not only work fine, but it can print a printer better than it was printed, with some care and attention to calibration.
The process still takes a lot of human intervention, in the way of building the new printer and properly calibrating it. If there are errors in the printer or the prints it produces, they can almost always be attributed to the builder/calibrator/user, and not to the design or the fact it's the Nth generation of printer.
# Answer
> 7 votes
The reprap printers have often been compared to plants, providing fruits to you and the possibility to reproduce themselves.
This analogy holds in both good and bad ways. Any life form can reproduce itself only so often without artefacts (mutations) being introduced.
It takes a bit of **skill to build, configure and run a reprap printer**. While the parts can be passed on, that doesn't necessarily hold for gained experience. Chances are that the parts your printer produces are not as good as those that you have received to build the printer. At least not until you caught up on the learning curve.
A reprap has a lot **other parts that are not printed and can vary in quality independently from the printed parts**. It makes a difference what steel rods are used, what driver circuit for the motors, etc. If you give printed parts away that are as good as those that you received yourself, the added parts are not necessarily as good as your.
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My recommendation would be that **you and your friends get printer parts from that somebody and you build your printers together**. While giving parts to others is a great thing, building 3D printers together with friends is greater.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself.
Unfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on January 15th 2016 due to their lack of sales.
I have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap.
Just make sure that when printing out the pieces for the next you are properly calibrated, otherwise the next machine might be built crooked;
Your only limitations will be the electronics pieces and the small amount of hardware that you will need to buy.
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Tags: reprap, desktop-printer, replicating-printers
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thread-49 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/49 | Are there any methods of limiting exposure of hazardous fumes and odors emitted by heating the plastics? | 2016-01-12T20:16:38.260 | # Question
Title: Are there any methods of limiting exposure of hazardous fumes and odors emitted by heating the plastics?
When using thermoplastic-filament, this can be potentially hazardous, since constant printing can emit hazardous fumes and odors that may be emitted by heating the plastics.
I understand it normally should be used in well ventilated areas. However I would like to use it heavily in the basement which is not well ventilated.
Are there any practical methods of limiting such exposure? For example locking it in some special box, covering it or suck the odors? Would that help?
Do you have any experience doing so?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Using negative pressure ventilation and a suitable organic filter will limit your exposure to toxic compounds, but won't completely remove them from your environment.
Enclose your printer in as air-tight a box as you can manage, then use a fan to suck air out of the box. This negative pressure will ensure that any leaks in the box will not allow gasses to escape.
The air should be blown through an organic filter. This might be done with face mask filters for painting, for instance.
Additional filtering may be done depending on the compounds you expect the printer to produce, but the ideal situation is to set up a ventilation system to the outdoors where the products cannot concentrate and harm anyone.
Another poorer option is to simply wear a proper organic filter mask yourself. It's not as good, since the compounds can spread through your residence or remain in the air and be inhaled when you aren't printing.
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Tags: filament, desktop-printer, safety
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thread-20 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20 | What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims? | 2016-01-12T19:30:45.060 | # Question
Title: What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?
I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.
Can anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?
# Answer
**Rafts:**
Rafts are a few layers of plastic a placed on the printing surface before the object is printed. If non water dissoluble filament is used, a bit of an air gap will be placed between the raft and the print itself so it can be removed easily. A raft can help a print stick to the printing surface as it normally has a larger surface area than the bottom of the print. It also allows the bottom layers of the print to contact another layer of plastic so there is less spreading compared to printing on the printing bed itself.
**Skirts:**
Skirts are loops of plastic that are extruded around the object that is being printed. On the first layer this allows the filament to get pushed through the extruder so that a steady flow can be established. A multiple layer skirt can be used to create a blockage around the print so there is less air movement on the print and the print can cool slower.
**Brims:**
A brim is a layer of plastic that is placed on the first layer of the print go allow for better adhesion to the printing surface. It does not extend under the print as a raft does, but only goes from the edge of the print to a set distance away.
<sup>Credits: Images from Slic3r</sup>
> 46 votes
# Answer
All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.
# Raft
A raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with bed adhesion issues, primarily used with ABS. The first few layers printed are the brim (typically prismatic), with the part itself on top of it (with a small separation distance to aid in separation, to allow the part to be removed from the raft). This separation distance needs to be adjusted to allow the first layer of the actual part to adhere, but also for the raft to be removed easily.
# Skirt
A skirt is a single-layer feature designed to help extruder priming and to establish a stable filament flow for an optimal first layer. They are generally a few passes around the first layer "footprint" in the rough shape of the first layer, but they do not touch the part itself or help adhesion directly (although having a primed and ready extruder helps extrusion on its own).
# Brim
A brim can be considered a skirt touching the first layer shape. It is used to help adhesion, and increases the first layer surface area (thus having more area to adhere to the bed). Brims are best used for parts with small first layers that fail to adhere properly. They are generally done as perimeters (as opposed to the crosshatching of infill) to be easily removable without damaging the part.
> 8 votes
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Tags: rafts, brims
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thread-70 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/70 | My print is warping: how can I ensure that it cools evenly? | 2016-01-12T21:00:36.337 | # Question
Title: My print is warping: how can I ensure that it cools evenly?
My print is warping and I suspect it is because of uneven cooling.
How can ensure my print cools evenly? Should I put a fan on the bed? Will no fan and a tall skirt help?
Or are my edges curling up for another reason?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Without more information we cannot address what is causing your edges to turn up. This can depend on the model being printed, the process, the material, the bed, and the method used to bond it to the bed.
As far as the initial question, a fan will most certainly ensure *uneven* cooling.
The middle of the print is, and will remain, the warmest. If you want the print to cool evenly, you'll need an enclosure to block out drafts and air currents, and you'll need to bring the heated bed temperature and enclosure temperature down slowly over a long period of time.
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Tags: adhesion, warping, cooling
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thread-16 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16 | Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent? | 2016-01-12T19:25:52.270 | # Question
Title: Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?
I am aware of several "clear" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.
Are there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?
# Answer
It depends on a lot of factors, type of plastic, whether the parts need to be strong, can you use a vase print, etc. Here's a few thoughts.
PLA - The brand of PLA makes a big difference, some can be printed very clear, some can't. Most of the transparent PLAs I've used print much more clear at around 240°C.
ABS - I've seen some pretty impressive clear parts printed as a single layer shell in ABS and then vapor smoothed. I tend to find ABS more translucent and less transparent though.
PETG - Again the specific PETG you use matters, but I haven't seen nearly as much variation as with PLA. I'm not sure how much temperature matters, but if it's too hot you get bubbles which will decrease clarity.
Thin Wall Prints - I don't have much experience here, but the Smooth On XTC-3D or vapor smoothing seem to be effective.
Solid Prints If I want transparency, I usually print it at 100% infill (should be a real 100%, too much overextrusion or underextrusion will decrease transparency). Printing slower and with less cooling sometimes helps. It's easier to get the infill solid with a direct drive extruder, I couldn't get decent results with a long bowden tube (a short bowden tube works fine).
Here's a page where I tested 10 transparent filaments, the printed samples are 2mm thick, 100% infill - http://thrinter.com/10-transparent-filaments. Those samples are all overextruded a bit, you can get better results if you dial in the extrusion precisely, but that's hard to get right, and the optimal settings may change slightly depending on the part geometry. Larger nozzles and thicker layers may help to, but I haven't experimented much with that as there are significant downsides to that approach.
> 10 votes
# Answer
Use Taulman t-glase and after a light sanding with really fine paper (optional really, but go for it if you can), spray it with polyurethane varnish or something similar. Check out the article here.
> 9 votes
# Answer
You can make a mold from the print and then get a cast from that mold with a clear casting material.
> 7 votes
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Tags: post-processing
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thread-103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/103 | Is it legal to make a fire weapon with a 3D printer? | 2016-01-12T23:39:20.770 | # Question
Title: Is it legal to make a fire weapon with a 3D printer?
Is there any regulation against a 3D printed weapon in the United States or Europe?
Some time ago, I saw an article in Israel where they had one that was not detected by the x-ray and was fully functional!
# Answer
**Sort of.**
Fully plastic guns are banned in the United States by the Undetectable Firearms Act, because they can pass unseen through metal detectors \- a huge problem. One way around this is to insert a slip of metal into the gun, thereby making it detectable by metal detectors. 3D-printed guns made of metal - were that possible - would not violate the law.
The UFA was originally enacted in 1988, extended from 2003 to 2013, and then again until 2023. It may seem a bit unnecessary, as all-plastic guns, like the famous Liberator have structural issues that make them extremely difficult to fire when compared to a normal all-metal gun. However, then *can* be used.
In Europe, gun laws vary widely by country. The European Firearms Directive is the main international agreement on gun laws, but its application varies, and it does not directly address 3D-printed guns.
I'm not aware of a country that has an explicit law banning 3D-printed guns. The only countries that ban them either unintentionally cover them or ban guns altogether.
> 10 votes
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Tags: legal
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thread-48 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/48 | What are the reasons for my 3D prints having large numbers of strings between parts of a layer? | 2016-01-12T20:16:01.823 | # Question
Title: What are the reasons for my 3D prints having large numbers of strings between parts of a layer?
I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.
However, even before the overhang begins, I am getting large amounts of strings as the extruder head jumps between the four towers in the print, leading to a "spiderweb" effect between them. How can I deal with these strings, and are they a warning that there might be something amiss with my printer, or possible other failures in other parts of the print?
# Answer
> 16 votes
Stringing is often a result of too-high a temperature, or insufficient retraction. When there is highly liquid filament in the nozzle tip, it can adhere to the remainder of the print while dripping as the nozzle moves, leading to a thin string of the filament forming. As further travel moves are performed in each layer, this turns to a web.
The high temperature causes filament to be very liquid, causing it to move downward in the nozzle chamber easily, as opposed to having to be extruded forcefully due to viscosity. The temperature setpoint of 210 was high enough to cause this to happen.
A second possible cause, insufficient retraction, can also be blamed for this issue. Retraction is a process in which the extruder reverses its movement to pull filament back up the hotend, preventing it from dripping at the tip, and forming a string. Most slicers will allow specifying a numeric value in millimeters of filament to be retracted. Remember that printers with Bowden tubes between nozzle/hotend and extruder motor will require increased retraction and priming (extrusion when starting to print after a retract-and-move). Note that too much retraction can cause other problems, such as insufficient plastic in the hotend chamber at the start of the next printing move, which can cause gaps and other issues.
# Answer
> 9 votes
Here's just a few of the things you might want to look into.
* plastic - some plastic types are more stringy than others and there's also variation between brands and colors.
* moisture in filament - water turning to steam tends to cause the extruder to ooze when it isn't printing, which can cause stringing.
* temperature - too hot or too cold can cause stringiness.
* retraction distance - not enough retraction can leave some nozzle pressure, causing it to ooze during travel moves (not sure how much retraction speed matters but I suspect it can make a difference too).
* acceleration - if it's too slow it's more likely to draw out strings.
* travel speed - faster travel speeds are more likely to prevent strings or make them thinner and less of a problem.
* z-hop - raising the extruder on travel moves makes stringing more likely.
* wipe - a longer wipe distance can be helpful to reduce stringing, especially with some of the more stringy filaments.
* combing - avoiding passing over open spaces can reduce stringing in some cases
* part cooling fan - more cooling might help to reduce stringiness.
There are other things too, the extruder design makes a big difference with longer bowden tubes being more challenging to tune. The order in which the layers are printed can make a difference too in some more specialized cases.
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Tags: quality, fdm, pla, extrusion
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thread-54 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/54 | What is the best way to connect 3D printed parts? | 2016-01-12T20:24:44.003 | # Question
Title: What is the best way to connect 3D printed parts?
I want to print a model of an animal cell.
What I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.
My question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?
Glue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible when used well, and preferable dries fast.
# Answer
For ABS print, I recommend acetone. It is not a glue, but it will dissolve the plastic a bit and if you apply it to both connecting parts and push them together, they will stay connected after the acetone dries. However, it does not dry very fast and you have to be careful not to destroy the object.
For PLA I usually use regular super glue (Cyanoacrylate).
> 7 votes
# Answer
For ABS I use a gel super glue (Loctite is my current favorite), it seems to slightly melt the ABS parts together and makes for a great bond. A slurry of old scrap ABS and acetone also works well, though I find that it will evaporate even if left in a closed mason jar over time. The small nozzle applicator and the fact it doesn't seem to evaporate makes super glue the better choice for me.
The gel super glue works "OK" for PLA but I've had parts fail after taking a small tumble. I just started using this acrylic cement for PLA. It cures *very* fast but seems to slightly melt the PLA in the same way the ABS options do.
For internal seams I like to put a bead of "high performance" hot glue over the seam. It's just a bit flexible and seems to do a good job taking drops.
Lastly I really like (but haven't mastered) friction welding parts together using a Dremel. Matt Griffin at MAKE Magazine did a great write up on the technique here.
> 5 votes
# Answer
After doing the processes that hroncok described, the edges of the print can be finished with a 3D printing pen. The pen extrudes filament as a regular print head does, but is hand held. The filament can be extruded on the previous gap between the two prints. It will melt between the two sides and can be finished to create a smooth connection point.
> 2 votes
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Tags: post-processing
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thread-84 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/84 | Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment? | 2016-01-12T21:57:01.307 | # Question
Title: Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment?
For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag. Does not doing this actually make print quality worse? I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.
# Answer
It makes a difference where I live, and I'm not in a particularly humid climate (California). When printing with wet filament, you'll sometimes hear it popping and see steam coming out of the extruder (it's usually only this extreme with nylon). With most other filaments, when they're wet, the extruded filament will have small bubbles in it and the surface finish of the parts will be rougher, with breaks in the layer lines. It can also lead to more oozing and stringing. Air print a few centimeters of filament and look at it closely to see if there's any bubbles, if not, it's probably dry enough. Whether the filament absorbs enough water to be noticeable in a few hours, in a day, or in a week depends a lot on the filament (and I assume the humidity too). I'm mostly noticed problems with nylon, ABS, and NinjaFlex, less with PLA and PETG (though I avoid leaving any filament out for more than a day).
If you're not seeing any difference between, then I wouldn't worry about it. Storing filament dry is a hassle.
> 16 votes
# Answer
**Humidity may be the problem.**
Humidity tends to degrade filament, making it weaker. If you leave a coil of filament out, over time it will be exposed to humidity. I have yet to hear of this happening over a short period of time - the real threat comes if you leave it out for weeks or months - but it can happen nonetheless.
Contamination with other materials is possible but unlikely. The odds of some sort of impurity developing from nearby particles is extremely low unless the filament is actively exposed to some other material.
In most cases, though, things should be just fine.
> 8 votes
# Answer
In most cases, you should be fine with ABS or PLA out of an airtight container. If you're worried about it, throw a few desiccant packets where you store your filament.
However, some specialty filaments should be stored in an airtight container. PVA is notorious for absorbing the ambient humidity around it. When it's heated, the water it has absorbed starts to form bubbles, completely messing up the extrusion.
In short, some specialty filaments, definitely. With others, it isn't necessary, but it can't hurt.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I haven't had any other issues storing it in the open, but keeping it in an airtight environment (especially if you live in a humid environment) keeps it moisture free, which can effect print quality. Manufacturers recommend this to help keep filament dry.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Normally you should check and follow guidelines provided by filament manufacturer or please contact them for more details. It can vary as not all environments are the same. For example frequent temperature fluctuations can increase chances of making a filament turn brittle.
For example PLA can be easily transfigured at temperature ranging from 55-70°, so it should not be exposed directly under sunlight for an extended duration<sup>faq</sup>.
PVA specifically is a water-soluble filament, so keeping it dry is absolutely necessary, because when it gets wet it can become unusable. Therefore when possible, keep them in original packaging (a sealed bag with a dessicant packet) as long as possible.
See: How should I store my filament? at MatterHackers FAQ
> 4 votes
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Tags: filament, pla, abs, storage
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thread-150 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/150 | Which are the strongest and most durable materials? | 2016-01-13T06:38:38.630 | # Question
Title: Which are the strongest and most durable materials?
I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?
PS: Newbie here...
**EDIT:** According to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not metal). It also has to be lightweight...
# Answer
> 2 votes
So, as you say you want to materials for printing robotics parts. And as you have not given any budget constraint, I would give you a list of materials which would help you achieve the task, and you can choose amongst them accordingly.
1. Plastics: Basically used for building prototypes. Nylon Polyamide should be a choice for you.
> Polyamide 3D printing is achieved through SLS 3D printing. It offers strong and flexible prints. The upside of this material is that the printing technology requires minimum preparation of the 3D file before printing. There is no need for support. And it also offers the possibility to create intricate shapes and moving part in just one go. After the print the polyamide can be polished and dyed.
2. Metals: Metals like Brass, Alumunium and Steel should be a good choice.
But, if I were to achieve your task, I would select carbon fiber. some details about it:
> Carbon fiber consists of 90% carbon atoms, each fiber is 10 times thinner than a human hair. Carbon is especially prized for its lack of combustibility and infusability but also by its incredible strength (stronger than steel) and ability to create flexible structure, light weight and corrosion resistance. Its melting temperature is 1500, this heat there are only carbon.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Filaments that are intended for making parts that require strange should be rated by the manufacturer for strength and flexibility.
You need to calculate the required strength and then choose a material with higher rating
For example the rating for filaments made by Taulman are at http://www.taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html?m
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Tags: filament, material
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thread-134 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/134 | What are the benefits to using 128X microstepping drivers on the X and Y axis of a FFF printer? | 2016-01-13T02:39:47.150 | # Question
Title: What are the benefits to using 128X microstepping drivers on the X and Y axis of a FFF printer?
Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish). In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers. I'm thinking the RAPS128, Silencioso, and Trinamic drivers vs the DRV8825, A4988 and A4988.
# Answer
You will likely not see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from a 16x or 32x to a 64x or 128x microstepping driver. Depending on the motors you're driving and the size of the load you could actually see a decrease in quality.
Although microstepping increases theoretical resolution it does not necessarily increase accuracy. The reason is that microstepping significantly limits the incremental torque of the motor. This means that you may ask for a step but not get one because the torque of the step won't be enough to actually turn the shaft.
As an example: a motor running in full steps will have 100% of its rated holding torque. Moving to 16 microsteps/full steps drops this to ~10%, 128 drops it to ~1%.
The practical effect of this is that in high torque situations (such as printing at fast speeds) the motor may end up skipping some of the steps. In this way the increase in resolution can actually lead to a decrease in accuracy (smaller steps but they may not actually be taken).
A relevant calculation to do would be to work out what the different number of microsteps to full steps works out to in terms of horizontal, vertical, or whatever movement the motor drives. You can do this by measuring how far the stepper moves said surface in one revolution provided you know the number of steps it takes per revolution.
**Example:**
With no microstepping: 1 turn/inch * 200 steps/turn = 200 steps/inch or .005 inch/step (127 micron resolution)
With 16x microstepping: 16 * 200 steps/inch or .0003 inch / step (8 micron resolution)
In this example 128x microstepping would be absolutely foolish. Every situation is different and you should use this information to make a decision based on your setup. Many manufacturers have recommendations on how far their motors can be microstepped.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Prints benefit from higher microstepping in two ways:
**Noise level**
Using microstepping reduces noise from your printer's operation.
**Print quality**
Using higher resolution microstepping does not increase the physical accuracy of your prints meaningfully, but it can reduce surface artifacts such as moire.
> 4 votes
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Tags: microstepping, stepper
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thread-140 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/140 | Do stepper motors require any maintenance? | 2016-01-13T04:14:31.923 | # Question
Title: Do stepper motors require any maintenance?
I've had my printer for almost a year now.
Is there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?
# Answer
The stepper motor itself does not. You may want to inspect the motors for debris or dust.
Depending on your configuration you may want to check on parts of your printer that connect to your stepper motor such as shaft couplings, pulleys, lead screws/threaded rods and belts. The stepper motor wires should occasionally be inspected for wear and strain.
> 15 votes
# Answer
No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have brushes that need to be replaced.
> 10 votes
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Tags: electronics, maintenance, mechanics, stepper
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thread-164 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/164 | Can I print my own Lego bricks? | 2016-01-13T12:25:55.097 | # Question
Title: Can I print my own Lego bricks?
Assuming I've 3D design (or I've created one) which looks very similar to Lego bricks, I am allowed to 3D print them for my personal use?
Do I need to obtain some permission to do so, because of some patents? Or how does it work?
# Answer
> 10 votes
The patents that cover Lego bricks have expired, so you are free to print bricks using the same interlocking system. You are even allowed to offer such prints commercially.
What is not allowed (and a violation of trademark law) is to call them "Lego bricks" or use Lego's logo. "Compatible with Lego" on the other hand, would be fine.
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Tags: legal, bricks
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thread-168 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/168 | I've exported 3D models from the game, can I print them? | 2016-01-13T12:36:34.530 | # Question
Title: I've exported 3D models from the game, can I print them?
Assuming I've extracted 3D models from a game which I legally bought (such as StarCraft). I am allowed to 3D print them for personal use or give it to close friends?
Is there any general rule, or this suppose to be specified in the license? If so, which section/clause potentially can prevent me from doing that? Or I need to contact the company who owns the game to obtain the permission?
# Answer
> 1 votes
No. Such figures are generally covered by copyright, which means that nobody but the copyright holder is allowed to (re-)produce copies of the work. Copyright also covers personal use. In the US there are limited fair use exceptions but they do not apply here.
The only way to do this legally is if it is specifically authorized in a license or if you get permission.
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Tags: legal, 3d-models
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thread-2 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2 | Is 3D printing safe for your health? | 2016-01-12T18:45:51.287 | # Question
Title: Is 3D printing safe for your health?
I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be harmful for humans.
What do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?
# Answer
> 23 votes
There is very little information about safety available, as home 3D printers are relatively new. However, plastics such as ABS have a long history in making plastic products, and a study found that at traditional manufacturing methods (such as injection molding and hot wire cutting) do not release dangerous levels of carcinogens and/or respiratory sensitizers in to the air.
Of course, 3D printers are not among the processes covered in the study. In home 3D printing circles, this study that looks at ultrafine particle (UFP) emissions, is often cited. It finds that printing ABS releases relatively high levels of UFP's and PLA releases significantly fewer (but still quite a large amount). However, it is unclear whether/how dangerous these UFP's are in the amounts emitted.
It is often suggested that PLA, partly because of the reduced UFP emissions is safer to print than ABS, partly because of its "natural" origins as it can be derived from materials such as cornstarch. I would caution against this line of reasoning since "natural" materials can still be poisonous (snake venom is natural, after all) and the cornstarch is heavily processed so it hardly resembles its original form. The lower UFP emissions may suggest it is safer, but the study is only quantitative, not qualitative.
That said, PLA does probably pose less of a risk (despite my earlier argumentation against "natural" materials, PLA does play quite nicely with the human body), but I contend the risk with ABS is not too large anyways, given that it has been safely used in factories for decades.
Another study is often miscited, supposedly saying that 3D printing ABS releases hydrogen cyanide. The study only looks at the thermal decomposition of ABS, which happens at significantly higher temperatures than are reached during printing (but a significantly malfunctioning printer might cause toxic gasses to be released, but I contend that at that point you should worry about your printer being on fire, rather than temporary exposure to some toxins).
There are no printers out there that are fundamentally safer than others. However, some printers have an enclosure (containing the fumes) and some even have a carbon filter and a fan for fume extraction. If you would like to err on the side of caution, this might be a good choice (but again, it is not clear if a carbon filter is totally effective).
Finally, as printers are generally quite noisy it tends to be preferrable to keep your printer in a separate room from where you usually work. In this case, fume exposure (during the few minutes that you go to check on your print) is minimal, and the potential advantages of a "safer" printers or using "safer" materials diminish.
Incidental exposure as a hobbyist is probably not a big deal; workers in factories are exposed to the fumes of melted plastic their entire lives and they don't seem to be dropping dead. On the other hand, if you are going to be printing structurally then it is probably preferable to move your printer to a separate room, if not because of health and safety because of the noise.
# Answer
> 18 votes
Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.
FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.
SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.
Powder based printers can also off-gas, in addition to the powder itself presenting a possible hazard.
Many hobbyist and small companies dance around the problem, and suggest that the machines always be used in well ventillated areas. Professional machines often have filters and ventillation systems built in.
Rather than trying to find a "perfectly safe" 3D printer, spend some time deciding what you want to use one for, find printers suitable for your use, and expect that you'll need to provide reasonable ventilation for almost any printer. Plan your installation for that, and you should be able to make any printer safe for your required use.
If, however, you plan on setting up a printer farm with many printers, and plan to have yourself or others spend significant time operating them, I suggest you work with a health and safety professional and have them identify possible hazards and plan mitigation.
# Answer
> 10 votes
I am going to address the air issue as it is currently unresolved. the third dimension offers a great answer for common safety issues.
The short answer is that based on our limited knowledge at this point, there may be imperceptible health hazards related to FDM / FFF printers and therefore additional safety precautions are, in my opinion, necessary and not optional or secondary as suggested by some in the community.
In other words, if you can isolate your printer in a well-vented area where people rarely go, then of course it's not a health risk, but if people will be exposed to the air of the printer for any significant periods of time, you need to do something about it. This is my situation - where I live dedicated workshops and extra rooms are luxuries that most people do not have.
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# Realistic Chance of Being Dangerous --\> Treat It As Dangerous
The key information at this point in time is the UFP (Ultra-Fine Particle) study that is linked in Tom's answer.
Leaving out the scary / detailed parts:
> Therefore, results herein suggest that caution should be used when operating these 3D printing instruments inside unvented or unfiltered indoor environments due to their large emissions of UFPs.
>
> One important limitation to this study is that we have no information about the chemical constituents of the UFPs emitted from either type of 3D printer \[...\]
>
> \[...\] there may also be differences in toxicity because of differences in chemical composition.
This means that although many processes release UFPs (the authors of the paper compare to cooking), all UFPs are not created equal. Since the UFPs from 3D printing are still an unknown, the only real answer from a safety perspective is to treat them as dangerous.
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# This is not legal, safety, or professional advice!
I am not qualified to give an opinion on what should be done but I will share what I would do:
* **Venting** \- Active airflow pushing the envelope of air around the print into a large, unpopulated body of air.
* **Enclosure + Venting** \- By fully enclosing your printer, it will probably keep the UFPs mostly within the enclosure. You could combine that with either continuous venting or as some have suggested purge venting before opening the enclosure.
* **Enclosure + Filtering** \- A filter can be applied both to the vent to reduce the output of UFPs (e.g. if you have no access to a safe body of air) and as a recirculating system that removes the UFPs from the body of air within the enclosure.
**A note on positive vs negative pressure** related to venting and filtering: if you produce positive pressure within the enclosure, you are going to be blowing all the UFPs out into your environment anyway. Negative pressure vented to a safe body of air or neutral pressure with good seals and recirculated filtering may avoid that.
**A note on filters**: Activated carbon filters will not remove UFPs. HEPA filters may remove 3D printing UFPs.
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# Which Printer?
As long as the uncertainty exists, I predict that as the market matures, filtering and enclosures will become more standard. At this point in time, the only enclosed AND HEPA filtered consumer-grade FDM printers I am aware of are the Up! Box and the Zortrax Inventure. There are a number of enclosed printers without filtering.
As an alternative, at least one company has appeared with products targeted at those who are concerned about various safety aspects of 3d printing.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Apart from the inherent process itself and direct health hazards from that, many 3D printers also require some complementary technology to work.
printers have a printing head that needs to move around in 3D space. **Moving machinery parts can be a hazard**. In a home/hobbyist environment with children for example, I would recommend to buy a printer with a housing.
"open" designs often feature **bare electronics** mounted directly to the printer structure. This rises the possibility of short circuits and electric shock.
The printers that heat material often do so at very high temperatures. **Hot parts of the printer** should not be touched.
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Tags: print-material, safety, health
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thread-172 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/172 | Printing copyrighted objects as a print shop for a customer | 2016-01-13T12:57:34.693 | # Question
Title: Printing copyrighted objects as a print shop for a customer
If a person is running a print shop where there are given STL files by customers, and they print the part for them, does the legality of the printed object matter? The customer would be supplying the file so the print shop would not know if it was legally obtained (or even what the object is). Could the print shop get in trouble with the law for this?
# Answer
There are two aspects to this question that probably should be addressed separately. This is not legal advice and I'm not a lawyer, so consult with an experienced IP attorney.
Copyright law may apply, and other IP laws, such as patents and trademarks, may apply. They each have different requirements and restrictions.
Notably, IP law varies from country to country. WIPO has made significant inroads into regularizing IP law across many countries, but this answer will still focus on a US-centric reading of US IP law.
### Copyright law
It's already established that printed works, such as photographs, texts, and similar works will result in prosecution against the person and the company that the person outsourced the copying of the copyrighted work to. Attempt to copy a book or copyrighted photo at a paper copy shop and they will typically refuse to reduce their liability.
Even if you show that you have rights to the work, through educational use laws, for instance, they may still refuse because they may be putting themselves in danger of a lawsuit by a particularly aggressive copyright holder.
This applies to 3D printing shops in a similar manner. If you don't know the source of the 3D model, and that the person has a right to the model, you may find yourself liable for copyright infringement. Even if you are sure, a lawsuit can financially ruin your business if it comes from a large corporation.
### Patents
Patents apply even if you were unaware of them. So any model you print that contains patented techniques, technology, or concepts may also pull you, as the print shop, into a lawsuit for patent infringement.
### Reducing liability
A suitable contract with the person requesting the 3D print, as written by an IP lawyer, may reduce, but not eliminate, your liability. It won't completely absolve you of all responsibility, but may reduce your exposure to such lawsuits, and give you some leverage in court should someone prosecute you.
> 2 votes
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Tags: legal
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thread-171 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/171 | How to print edible food? | 2016-01-13T12:52:32.577 | # Question
Title: How to print edible food?
I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.
Is printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?
# Answer
> 7 votes
You cannot print edible models using a "standard" consumer 3D printer without first installing an "hot end" capable of depositing edible - normally thicker - substances as well as a suitable extruder mechanism.
However, there are not necessarily any technical limitations in the electronics, software, slicers etc. in a typical printer that wouldn't allow you to install such an upgrade. For instance, you could calibrate your extrusion rate and nozzle width to suit batter and similar.
Some commercial printers, such as the DeltaWASP allow for upgrades that print clay, which wouldn't be very different from printing liquid food.
# Answer
> 5 votes
You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.
You don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a special extruder (such as http://www.structur3d.io/). Most of these systems can print anything with the consistency of Nutella. However, many parts of the printer may not be food safe.
Another option (if you simply want 2d designs) is something like the PancakeBot. It can probably also "print" with anything that has the same consistency of pancake batter.
# Answer
> 5 votes
MakerBot Industries had a mod available for their early open source machines called the Frostruder. It was basically a syringe connected to your print head. I saw this in action at the University of Washington a long time ago. Check out the legacy ReplicatorG in action!
I like to relate 3D printing as "A hot glue gun on rails". The beauty is that a lot of the home machines can easily be almost anything on rails.
So, you could always try to 3D print a solution of your own. Please keep in mind any federal regulations on food processing materials (ie ABS is not recommended for most food applications).
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Tags: desktop-printer, food
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thread-181 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/181 | Can you use PLA material with food and drinks? | 2016-01-13T14:12:10.063 | # Question
Title: Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?
I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.
Is it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?
# Answer
> 6 votes
As others have pointed out, PLA isn't specifically not food safe, but materials that have been printed previously can contaminate the PLA.
Additionally, anything 3D printed is extremely porous. Once a part is used for food, moisture and bacteria will accumulate in the pores, and can never be completely cleaned out, contaminating any food that contacts it. It can't be sterilized either, because the temperatures needed for sterilization would deform or melt the plastic.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Regardless of whether the actual filament you are printing is marked as Food Safe by the provider, remember that actually printing the filament might contaminate it.
If you previously have printed a toxic filament on your printer, you cannot be sure no remains of that filament are deposited onto the model. Equally, I believe very few printers only consist of parts that are all marked as Food Safe - the parts that touch the filament that is.
Another aspect of food safety is your ability to properly clean 3D printed objects. Due to the highly structured surface of 3D printed objects, I would not be certain that they are truly clean after washing, particularly since many plastics cannot be cleaned in a dishwasher.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Having performed a quick search through all the resources at the FDA Food Contact Substance resource, I cannot find PLA in any list except an occasional notification that a specific manufacturer has obtained approval for use in specific circumstances, with the notice that such notifications are only valid for that manufacturer and cannot be used to validate another use of a substance.
There are companies that have received approval for their specific formulation and use of PLA as a food contact substance. You may wish to discuss this further with your material supplier to find out if they have approved PLA product available.
Without specific product approval, though, PLA is not on the lists of generally recognized as safe, nor approved for food contact use.
Regulations in other countries may differ, so you may want to search the EU directives, for instance, to find out their opinion on PLA as an FCS.
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Tags: pla, safety, health, food
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thread-149 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/149 | What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints? | 2016-01-13T06:35:47.820 | # Question
Title: What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints?
Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.
The part on the left is my "normal" quality, while the part on the right show the deterioration. Here is another picture (in which the good part is on the right):
The parts are both printed with 0.1mm layer height, and identical slicer settings/filament. I am printing on a custom-built FDM printer; the mechanism is roughly similar to that of an Ultimaker.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit. Because the nozzle was still tight against the heatbreak I didn't experience any issues with my hotend, but because the heatbreak was slightly loose the nozzle wasn't properly constrained and moving around a bit.
A quick turn to tighten the heatsink back into the heatbreak was enough to fully resolve the issue. My prints are as smooth as ever now.
# Answer
> 4 votes
There are many factors, here are a few things to check:
I'd first suspect filament feeding. This type of ridging can be caused by a filament coil that is binding occasionally, or a filament that doesn't have an even diameter or volume per length. Binding within the filament feeder and feeder tubes can also be a cause. Bubbles in the filament, or sometimes a mismatch between the filament ideal temperature and the head temperature could create results like this, but it probably wouldn't vary so much between the layers.
Next I'd look at the print head. If it has blockages, or poor temperature control this could result.
Lastly, I'd check the mechanisms - disconnect the motors and see if all the carriages slide smoothly without any binding, particularly the Z axis. It doesn't look like you're missing steps, but binding here may result in greater backlash, which could result in similar ridges. Make sure any belts and gears are tight.
# Answer
> 4 votes
As with many topics in 3D printing, there can be many variables that produce this result.
Immediately, your images make me think that the belts on your machine are not tight enough. This can cause noise in every direction of movement and is more prominent in backlash areas. I would suggest going through your general maintenance checklist:
* Replace Build Plate tape
* Level build plate (An uneven plate or improper height can yield these results as well)
* Teach your axis belts
* Clean/lube guide rails
* Clean drive gears
Keeping up on your maintenance (I do mine about every 5 prints) should reduce noise in your motion and ensure better quality prints, mechanically speaking.
As mentioned above, your results may be caused by your BP being leveled too low (or too high). If your build plate height is off, the filament will not adhere to previous layers very well (if too low) and can cause this back and forth "spaghetti noddle" effect on outer layers. If the build plate is too high, you might see the nozzle physically "spreading" the previous layer around as the nozzle digs into the layer.
Another possible fix for this would be to play with the settings in your slicing engine that involve the order that shell/roof/floor layers are printed. ie Start inside-out or start outside-in.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Have you recently leveled your print bed? By placing the nozzle too close to the bed on the first layer the first layer will seem over extruded. If there are no infill layers after the first layer, these layers will seem over extruded as well since the extra filament will have nowhere to go.
A typical sign of too close bed leveling is that the bottom layers seem over extruded, while layers after regions of infill appear normally extruded.
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Tags: fdm, abs, print-quality
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thread-229 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/229 | How do I set the G-code buffer size on Marlin? | 2016-01-13T23:34:03.707 | # Question
Title: How do I set the G-code buffer size on Marlin?
I am reconfiguring a Printrbot Simple Metal that has been retrofitted with a RAMPS+Arduino Mega running Marlin, with a fairly slow feedrate due to mechanical and quality limitations.
I am finding that upon cancelling a print where something goes wrong, I have a long period of time in which the printer is continuing to print from the G-code and movement buffer, although the host software (Octoprint) has long stopped sending G-code.
Is there a way I can either a) configure Marlin to have a smaller print buffer (since Octoprint has no trouble keeping up with the printer as it stands) or b) send a particular signal or G-code to the printer that stops it without continuing to read buffer contents?
# Answer
> 9 votes
Marlin does allow one to change the size of the buffers, in `Configuration_adv.h`. In the current version there's an ifdef that switches between two cases, one with SD support, and the other without. Both have a movement planner of size 16, which can be adjusted.
Additionally, in the same file, `BUFSIZE` can be changed to modify the size of the buffer storing *unparsed* commands before they are parsed and enter the movement planner buffer.
Additionally, for some firmwares, `M112` will immediately shut down the printer, no matter what is in the buffer, but the reset button will need to be used, and the axes will not be homed afterward. In Marlin, it's hardcoded to call `kill()`.
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Tags: g-code, firmware, marlin
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thread-211 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/211 | What material can I use to make my own cake molds? | 2016-01-13T20:41:04.500 | # Question
Title: What material can I use to make my own cake molds?
I would like to make custom cake molds.
I've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible.
I wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?
However, there are two extra conditions:
* The material must be able to withstand the heat of an oven or microwave, and not mix with the dough.
* It should not be too difficult to remove the cake from the mold after it is ready.
The first condition is where this question is a little different from Can you use PLA material with food and drinks? \- that question is about cutlery and glasses, not about things that go into the oven or microwave.
Is there a material that can be used for this purpose?
# Answer
I would say that FDM printing in general is out of the question for this task, ABS and PLA would both melt in the oven, and the grooves in the print from the FDM process would make it a nightmare to clean.
My initial thought was an SLA printer ( $1000+ ) which uses a Photopolymer Resin hardened by a UV light, and based on its medical uses, I would think that it is food safe - I do not know what its melting point is however.
Another idea, one that would not too easily be done in house, is porcelain.
Shapeways offers a service that you could use for this - they say just $9 per part, 125 x 125 x 200mm maximum dimms, both food and oven safe.
> 7 votes
# Answer
The biggest problem I see with using a Kossel (or any FDM printer) is that to print the mold directly you'd need a plastic with a low enough melting point you can print it and a high enough melting point you can bake it.
From this list of filaments (which admittedly shows printing temperatures, not melting temperatures) Polycarbonate and Polycarbonate-ABS are printed at 250+ C, while a brief search found cake baking temperatures from 175 to 200 C.
According to this, polycarbonate is already used for food-safe containers, though you'd still need to worry about printing in a food-safe manner and surface finishing as in the question you linked.
Those two facts suggest it might be possible to print a polycarbonate mold and bake in it, though IMO there's a much better way to achieve the same result: print a positive of the mold in whatever material you want, smooth the print for better finish quality, then use food grade silicone to make the mold from the finished print.
> 7 votes
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Tags: food
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thread-242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/242 | Marlin menu navigation slow while printing | 2016-01-14T06:54:46.547 | # Question
Title: Marlin menu navigation slow while printing
My Kossel Mini printer (delta) has RAMPS1.4/Arduino Mega electronics configured to use a standard 20x4 LCD display with Marlin during printing.
Often, navigating the menus during print can be painfully slow, and I occasionally end up making the wrong selections due to lag.
Without starving the actual printing process of CPU resources, is there any way of speeding up the menu navigation?
# Answer
A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing. The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface.
Marlin doesn't document any configuration parameters that would improve the user interface responsiveness, and in any case such improvement must necessarily come at the cost of printing speed and/or accuracy. The processor is being used to its maximum capacity. The only thing you might be able to do is dig into the firmware and try to change it yourself, as this is not a clear option within Marlin.
If working with the user interface while printing is important to you, your next step should probably be to change to a faster 32 bit processor. There are a few firmwares available for ARM and other architectures which may resolve your situation.
> 5 votes
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Tags: slic3r, ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, marlin
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thread-259 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/259 | Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part? | 2016-01-15T01:07:58.893 | # Question
Title: Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part?
Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.
Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?
# Answer
> 10 votes
**What bed material cools faster?**
I found an extensive list which relates various materials to their *thermal conductivity*, k \[W/mK\]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down.
Here are the thermal conductivity for some common materials for 3d printer beds:
```
Aluminum 205
Glass 1.05
Acrylic 0.2
Air 0.024 (for reference)
```
There is also the matter of thermal capacity, but I will not go into that right now (need to do some research myself first!).
**Will bed material affect cooling time?**
Bed material, I believe, is not necessarily related to print cooldown time: it depends on the situation, such as whether we are discussing cooldown during or after printing, and if the bed is heated or not.
1. If you are *not* using a heated bed, I believe the bed material doesn't matter at all.
2. With a heated bed *while printing*, only the first dozen layers or so are probably affected by the rising heat sufficiently that it affects the printing process.
3. With a heated bed *after printing*, the thermal characteristics of the bed will determine how quickly the print cools (and thus can be removed).
Also remember that other physical properties, such as flatness (both cold and during heating) of the bed material is vital for successful prints, and that not all materials can tolerate heating equally well!
# Answer
> 2 votes
Assuming you are meaning the build plate and not confusing it with a printed raft, yes, different materials for the build plate will have different cooling rates. I don't know the values of hand, but a Google search can get you to a formula to calculate how long a certain size build plate of a given material type should roughly take to cool. (I'm using the mobile app right now, so I'll have to get back to this answer later to give links and more details)
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Tags: heated-bed, hbp, cooling
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thread-269 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/269 | Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament? | 2016-01-15T13:05:05.660 | # Question
Title: Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament?
As an extension from this question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament? I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any other problems?
Also, would using 1.75 mm filament be possible if the nozzle diameter was greater than 1.75 mm but less than 3 mm?
# Answer
Typically an extruder and hot end are designed for one or the other, and cannot support the other without mechanical changes.
The extruder may not be able to grip a smaller diameter filament with enough force to assure even feeding and retraction.
The hot end, however, is much more complex. The filament has to be pushed with force into the melting zone, which means the filament has to slide along an area inside the hot end where the filament is plastic but still put pressure on the filament ahead of it.
When you put filament into a hot end, the filament softens before the melt zone, but since the walls of the hot end are just barely larger than the filament it has no choice but to continue pressing down on the liquid filament below.
With a narrower diameter filament, though, the filament can heat, soften, then travel *backwards* along the sides of the hot end and cool in place, jamming the hot end, or at least preventing an even continuous flow of plastic.
Some hot ends will accept a small Teflon tube that takes this space up and allows you to do this with fewer issues, and if you like to tinker you can experiment with this, but be prepared to learn a lot and fail a lot as you find out the hard lessons of hot end design.
Generally you should upgrade your entire extruder and hot end setup to the size you want to use.
> 14 votes
# Answer
1. It may work for a short time but you're going to fill the melt chamber quickly and possibly overflow to a point where the filament isn't constrained causing a messy jam. All the molten plastic will likely flow backwards to a point where the diameter isn't 3mm any longer (probably next to your drive gear) but depending on the length it may just flow up, cool down and jam the extruder.
2. No, the filament would just pass through unheated and not do anything.
> 5 votes
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Tags: filament, extruder
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thread-81 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/81 | Safety precautions when using acetone | 2016-01-12T21:50:45.197 | # Question
Title: Safety precautions when using acetone
Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints. What safety precautions should be taken during its use?
# Answer
There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.
* **Make sure the area is well-ventilated.** Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, meaning that a single spark could lead to disaster. Using a fan is good; angle it towards an open window. This is also to prevent exposure to acetone because of its toxicity.
* **Be prepared to fight a fire.** Should vapor ignite, you may need to fight the fire. If it is large enough, then you should clearly evacuate the area. If it appears to be small, use dry chemical powder to snuff out the fire. Alcohol foam, water spray, and/or fog may be used on slightly larger fires. Acetone is not likely to cause a large inferno to rip through the building. But there's always the chance of a small fire. Be careful.
* **Create a vapor chamber.** This is another way to stop a potential fire from spreading. It can also reduce contamination.
* **Wear gloves.** This can minimize any potential transfer toxic effects. However, skin exposure is unlikely to cause major issues.
Acetone is toxic, as I mentioned before, but it is not highly toxic. Exposure via the eyes and nose/mouth is the main risk. Skin effects may occur (e.g. mild irritation), but they are minor and generally arise only after long-term exposure (hence the recommendation of gloves in some cases).
Acetone exposure is only a serious problem when a person is repeatedly exposed to levels greater than 1,000 ppm (severe effects only arise at much higher levels). It seems unlikely, given a proper ventilation system, that this will be an issue
In addition to all this, basic safety precautions such as wearing a ventilator mask and goggles should definitely be taken. When working with any such chemicals with the potential for bodily harm, these should absolutely be used.
> 12 votes
# Answer
Contrary to what the other answers suggest, the risk of fire is not that great. An acetone "explosion" is even more unlikely, since you need a ratio of 2.5%-12.8% acetone vapor to air for that: too much acetone (as would be the case inside of your smoothing vessel) and nothing happens, too little (as would be the case inside of a badly ventilated room) and nothing happens either.
Note that even if you were working in a completely non-ventilated, ridiculously small 1m^3 room you'd still need to evaporate over half a liter of (liquid) acetone to reach that bare minimum 2.5%. In any case, well before you got into the "danger zone" the air would become unbreathable.
So, then what should you be mindful of when using acetone?
* It can give you a headache. Avoid breathing the fumes and ensure adequate ventilation.
* You may opt to use gloves, as skin contact should be avoided (acetone can irritate the skin and possibly be absorbed through the skin). However, limited skin contact isn't a big deal: acetone is an ingredient in some nail polish removers.
* Acetone is heavier than air, so if you use a sufficiently high container fewer fumes will escape.
* If somehow a fire does start, it will likely be limited to your container. Having a lid handy allows you to starve the fire of oxygen, harmlessly putting it out.
All in all, smoothing using acetone is not very dangerous. Acetone isn't suspected to be carcinogenic, though it isn't something you should be careless around either. The risk of starting a fire is small. On the other hand, solvents like MEK (used for smoothing PLA) aren't as nice by far, and should only be handled with a respirator.
> 6 votes
# Answer
1. **No fire.** Acetone is highly flammable. Avoid open flame, smoking, soldering etc. near acetone or acetone fumes. Be ready to fight a fire.
2. **Ventilate.** Acetone is very volatile so the fumes will be everywhere in the room. While breathing them should not kill you, it is certainly not good for your health. It may cause drowsiness or dizziness. It is also a good idea to close the container/jar as soon as possible and do not keep it open when not necesery.
3. **Avoid eye contact.** Acetone causes serious eye irritation. IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove contact lenses if present and easy to do – continue rinsing. Seek medical help if needed.
You should also avoid skin contact; repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking, but this never happens me if I wash my hand after using acetone.
> 5 votes
# Answer
# Safety Advice for Acetone Handling/Usage
---
***Please remember that you handle acetone at your own risk! By using this advice you agree to hold me harmless and not sue me as a result of using these instructions/advice. Remember that I am not a professional chemist or a lawyer (this isn't professional or legal advice)!***
---
I encourage you to research safety precautions and risks on your own to build a personal body of knowledge. The most effective safety precaution available to you is knowledge; the brain is the most important piece of safety equipment! This listing of advice for acetone handling is generated from the highlights of a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for acetone. After reading this advice you should read an MSDS for acetone directly. It would actually be an excellent idea to find and read the MSDS for all the chemicals you use during 3D printing.
**Safety Equipment**
* Wear safety clothing! Acetone requires that you wear protective gloves, protective eyewear, and a respirator (to protect your airway). It is also highly recommended to wear protective (ideally also chemically resistant) clothing (like a smock or an apron). These safety clothes are recommended because acetone is a toxic substance which can absorb through the skin and walls of the lungs directly. Make sure to verify the gloves are made of a substance which blocks acetone absorption, also, verify that your respirator is rated to protect against acetone (many respirators are not capable of blocking acetone due to it's volatility).
* Possess, prepare and understand how to use an eyewash station, a fire blanket, a fire extinguisher (rated for chemical fires), a chemical shower/dousing system and other standard laboratory safety equipment. Posting warning signs along the entrances and exits to the work area about working with a volatile, flammable and explosive gas is also recommended.
* Keep an inert absorption media readily available to cleanup spills should you accidentally fail to avoid a spill. Diatomaceous earth, silica/sand and activated charcoal are all potential absorption media. Should you have a large spill or not possess absorption media (which should not happen - always verify safety equipment is present and working before handling chemicals!) then you may also dilute the spill with water and mop up the dilute solution of acetone. No matter which method you use to cleanup a spill remember to dispose of the contaminated cleanup materials according to the requirements/laws of your local area. **Do not** lazily dispose of the acetone down the drain without doing research on the correct disposal methods!
**Control Your Environment**
* Ensure proper ventilation of your workspace (ventilation is required in addition to your respirator due to explosion/fire risk). If the atmospheric concentration of acetone becomes too high the risk for fires and explosions quickly becomes unacceptable (the risk is never going to be zero working with acetone unfortunately, but minimizing it is very important). Working outside is the perfect way to insure the ventilation is adequate, although that presents it's own problems and considerations. Alternatives include using a fume hood, or even something as simple as a fan blowing air through an open window.
* Eliminate any and all sources of flame or spark for a considerable area around all sources of acetone (10-15 meters minimum). Take special precautions to prevent being unknowingly contaminated with acetone (which could then be accidentally transported from the work area to a flame source using you as a carrier). Personal contamination can lead to injury if you attempt to smoke during a break or at anytime before verifying you are not contaminated. It is important to provide an ignition-free environment that extends quite far away from the immediate vicinity of the acetone because acetone can ignite a vapor trail of acetone and allow the flame to travel distances via flashing over the vapor trail. Physical isolation is the ideal solution to this dangerous problem. A policy of always closing the door to the acetone work area is an example of physical separation which would hopefully prevent this vapor trail flash-over.
* Avoid acetone spills. Acetone is an excellent solvent which could easily eat away the paint on your wall or destroy the finish of your table. Spills also necessitate following special precautions for cleanup and disposal, which have already been provided earlier within this list.
**Acetone Chemistry**
* Do not under any condition mix your acetone with chemicals without an extensive analysis and understanding of the products and the risks associated with the reaction. The following list of chemicals will create an explosive compound/mixture when reacted with acetone, so do not allow them to come into contact with acetone: hydrogen peroxide, acetic acid, nitric acid, nitric acid + sulfuric acid, chromic anydride, chromyl chloride, nitrosyl chloride, hexachloromelamine, nitrosyl perchlorate, nitryl perchlorate, permonosulfuric acid, thiodiglycol + hydrogen peroxide, potassium ter-butoxide, sulfur dichloride, 1-methyl-1,3-butadiene, bromoform, carbon, air, chloroform, thitriazylperchlorate.
* Should you accidentally ignite some acetone, you must take additional precautions while evacuating or while attempting to extinguish the fire. Acetone is a hydrocarbon and the reaction of burning it produces products which include carbon monoxide (CO) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Essentially, humans are incapable of detecting these gases with their senses (detectors exist to measure concentration). However, these symptoms of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide can help alert you to the fact they are present: shortness of breath, blackness along the edges of your vision, confusion, headache, unconsciousness, coma, and finally, death. Carbon monoxide is far more dangerous than carbon dioxide because often the first symptom is unconsciousness, which prevents you from evacuating, leading to death. The dangerous of gas inhalation are substantial enough that as soon as a fire becomes medium-sized you should seriously consider evacuating the area rather than staying to extinguish the fire. It is better to lose property to the fire than to die (if you die I would guess that your property is destroyed anyway!).
**Risk Analysis**
* Acetone is a confirmed developmental toxin for females and a suspected developmental toxin for males as well. The risk of breast milk contamination is unknown, but it is a suspected toxic contaminant. Mutagenic and tetragenic effects are not known. The result of this toxicity is that pregnant or breastfeeding women should not handle or be around acetone (due to vapors) even for short periods of time.
* The risk of cancer and the carcinogenic properties for acetone are not well-defined, with some declining to classify acetone as a carcinogen and others classifying it as being carcinogenic. California, for instance, has required that acetone bear a proposition 65 warning about cancer risk.
* Acetone is definitely a toxic substance, but it is not highly toxic and accidental ingestion or absorption is essentially incapable of causing severe symptoms. Small exposures to acetone (like the exposure levels likely encountered during 3D printing) are more-or-less not very harmful. However, if you do get a problematic exposure to acetone, contact a poison control center.
* The LD50 ("lethal dose 50%", dose where half of subjects die) in rats is 5800 mg/kg, making the predictable (humans are often similar to rats in regards to toxicity) LD50 for an adult human similarly high. With such a high lethal dose, the predicted toxicity of acetone likely causes chronic sub-lethal damage instead of causing an acute and lethal response. If we assume an average adult human (62 kg) shares the LD50 of a rat- that human would need to consume 392 cc of acetone to reach the LD50. 392 cc is nearly equivalent to 4/10 L- meaning that there is essentially no chance the small consumption of acetone caused by working with it could poison an adult human (if our assumptions are correct).
* *Potential effects of inhalation, ingestion or skin absorption of acetone:* dry skin, nausea, vomiting, skin irritation, eye irritation, burning sensation, redness, tearing, inflammation, corneal injury, depression, fatigue, excitement, stupor, insomnia, hypersomnia, ataxia, tremors, dizziness, drowsiness, confusion, headache, muscle weakness, loss of motor coordination, speech abnormalities, narcotic effects, coma, kidney damage, liver damage, brain damage, and death.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Repeated exposure to acetone *can* lead to the skin becoming sensitised, which means that in the future it will become overly irritated at the slightest contact.
On a more mundane note, it is an excellent degreaser and dries your skin something rotten. And then your fingertips can split and take days or weeks to close up, hurting in the meantime.
> 1 votes
# Answer
You can smooth a print with acetone using different approaches which require different precautions. In general, you should have ventilated area and use gloves (or wash your hands after the procedure).
## Applying Acetone Directly
Using the print in acetone for several seconds or you can apply acetone with a brush. There is a low possibility of fire. See this video, (4) MakerBot Replicator - Model Finishing Tricks - Acetone Wash.
## Cold Acetone Vapor
This process takes several hours and gives you best control of the process. Because no external heat is used there is low chance of fire. See this video, Cold Acetone Vapor Finishing for 3D Printing.
## Hot Acetone Vapor
This approach takes minutes to smooth the print and there is high chance of ignition. I would never use it inside a building. See this video, Make your 3D Printed parts look professional with Acetone and a Rice cooker! - 2014.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: abs, acetone, safety
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thread-279 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/279 | Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers? | 2016-01-16T00:11:52.217 | # Question
Title: Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers?
With printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. But it's only practical to place it on the bottom, because otherwise support material would be necessary.
stereolithography has the same problem. Even though the photopolymer can be cured at any position in the build volume, the result would drift away if it was not held in place by support material.
The powderbed based printers (either powder+binder or any of the laser/electron beam sintering/melting variants) do not have this problem, because they continuously fill the entire build volume with powder. The support material that other printing technologies require is part of the powder based printing anyway. It would be possible to pack the build volume with many prints and print them in one go.
Given that the machines are relatively expensive, it would be economical to increase the throughput. A company that does use such printers heavily could wait a certain amount of time until a few print queued up that fit together in the build volume and only then start the process. Do people do this?
# Answer
Yes, this is very popular. Look into the site Shapeways and you will see that this is exactly what they do. I've also personally seen a local 3D print shop do this with their machine. It's called batching. I similar technique can be used in traditional machine shops (mills/lathes).
> 5 votes
# Answer
The print speed for powderbed printing depends primarily on the height of the print; the lateral extent doesn't really matter. Since powderbed printing provides its own easily-removed support structure, a packing that maximizes the number of items and minimizes the height will maximize throughput.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: sls, slm
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thread-284 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/284 | Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate | 2016-01-16T05:15:54.453 | # Question
Title: Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate
There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…
We built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps. I'd appreciate any pointers.
# Answer
Try using a solution made for applying window tint, maybe even soapy water. Squeegee it out, heat the bed for a bit and you should be good to go.
This video demonstrates the process.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I like to heat my build plate up a bit before I begin. Just warm to touch. I feel that this will help prevent bubbling so soon. I would think that since the build plate is expanded with the heat, that when the tape is applied it will shrink with the build plate. I was also told that the heat would help the adhesive stick better.
The other thing I do when applying kapton tape is apply one end of the tape to a ruler, place the ruler on the far side of the build plate, and slowly begin working the tape evenly across the plate. I find it much easier to apply tape this way.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, hbp
--- |
thread-294 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/294 | How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework? | 2016-01-16T13:28:24.050 | # Question
Title: How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework?
I am building a Prusa i3 Rework, and I haven't been able to find out how to attach my J-Head extruder (see below), at the moment it's just kind of held there by pressure, but it seems there are two holes on ether side of it; not sure if they're meant to hold it in place, but it seems that way.
Any suggestions as to what I should use to hold it in place? This is definitely a part that gets moved around alot.
**update**
# Answer
> 4 votes
It looks like the hotend may not be all the way in, are you sure it's not stuck?
If it's stuck and you can get it in further, those holes should go directly through the smaller ring on top of the J-Head. You just need to run a machine screw into each hole to secure the hotend. The screw will need to at least be flush with the other side to work correctly.
---
Tags: reprap, prusa-i3, prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-297 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/297 | What are the other materials which can be used in DLP Printing, other than polymers? | 2016-01-16T14:53:08.413 | # Question
Title: What are the other materials which can be used in DLP Printing, other than polymers?
I know that melted polymers are used for DLP (digital light processing) printing, by displaying the model onto the liquid material, which is the melted polymer.
But, can I use materials like steel, carbon fiber, etc?
If yes, then what precautions and arrangement should I make to my apparatus for coping with their high melting point?
# Answer
> 6 votes
DLP doesn't use "melted polymer". It uses a photosenstive resin which is at room temperature and polymerizes when exposed to (UV) light. At no point is any material melted.
As such, steel or carbon fiber can not be used as these materials are not photosensitive.
---
Tags: dlp
--- |
thread-296 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/296 | Are these the right types of electrical connectors for hooking my Switching Power Supply up to a wall outlet? | 2016-01-16T14:40:27.247 | # Question
Title: Are these the right types of electrical connectors for hooking my Switching Power Supply up to a wall outlet?
From what I understand, when you hook up the Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w to the wall outlet, you have to be **very careful**; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be a casing to fit around the switching power supply), or just order one from someone.
Now there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply. Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.
I bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.
There are specifications on the back:
```
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ ╬ AWG ╬ Wire Size ╬ Stud Size ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Spade Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-35 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ 0.5-1.5 ╬ 3.7 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Ring Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-4 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ 4.3 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Butt Splice ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ BF-1.2SS (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ n/a ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
```
Not sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this.
# Answer
> 5 votes
It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.
If you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the smallest size that fits your wires.
PC power cords are generally fitted with an IEC C13 plug, and those are rated for 10A (meaning also the wires themselves will be able to carry at least that much current). This is fine for any home 3D printer which usually draws a fraction of that.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The block on the supply will accept the bare wire
you *could* use the yellow in the middle on the right, but the screw on the block essentially does its own crimp.
---
Tags: wiring, switching-power-supply
--- |
thread-132 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/132 | How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed | 2016-01-13T02:13:54.357 | # Question
Title: How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed
When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?
# Answer
This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:
**A useful alternative for similar problems:**
A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through modifier meshes.
# Post processing scripts:
As far as I know, Slic3r does not give you the option of setting the speed of the first layer after a raft directly, but they do allow you to run post processing scripts; that is, to automatically run a set of operations - programmed by you - on the g-code output.
Although far from trivial, you can in theory make a program that runs through the output g-code, adjusts the settings to your preference, and then saves it again at the target destination.
### Tuning overall printer speed through g-code:
As it turns out, there is a simple g-code command that sets the overall speed of your printer's operation:
```
M220 S[some number] ; see the link above for compatible firmware
```
A newsletter from Reprapwold explains that:
> For example M220 S50 will reduce the speed to 50% of the original sliced G-code. If you want to hurry your print to the finish in time for dinner, use M220 S200, to print twice as fast (200%)
In other words, just like some printers allow you the change speed mid-print, you can use the M220 command to override the current speed used, either through a user interface such as PrintRun, or by fiddling with the original g-code itself.
### Manipulating the g-code output to adjust speed settings:
The easiest way to achieve our goal would be to manually manipulate the output g-code file through a text editor, and insert our M220 command in appropriate places:
* Set M220 S50 just before the first *perimeter* layer (after the raft's *interface layer*), to slow down the first layer of the actual model.
* Set M220 S100 sometime after the first perimeter layer, to resume the normal speed settings.
In order to do this, though, we need to be able to distinguish these two points in the g-code output.
### Distinguishing insertion points:
Slic3r offers a setting under `Print Settings -> Output options -> Verbose G-code` that - when enabled - inserts written comments all throughout the g-code files generated.
If one inspects a g-code file outputted for a model with raft, one will find the comment:
```
; move to first perimeter point <- lets call this A
```
and
```
; move to next layer (x) <- lets call this B
```
littered several places throughout the gcode.
It is under my *impression* that the *first* occurrence of comment **A** happens right after the raft is finished, and before the actual model is being printed, while the first occurrence of comment **B** succeeding comment **A** can be used to set the speed back to normal.
It should be noted, however, that **the comments in the output g-code does not seem fully consistent**, and I would therefore not recommend anyone to automate this logic into a script without possibly finding other, more reliable breakpoints, and thoroughly verify these through several different models.
I have not looked into the details of writing an automatic script for this task as of yet.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I've played with v1.2.9 only a little bit (I primarily use MakerWare). However, it looks as though you can just go to `Print Settings -> Speed -> (Modifiers) First Layer Speed`. Here you'll have the option to set the speed in `mm/s or %`. If you're having issues with the first layer (or two) not adhering very well to a raft, try reducing the distance between the part and the raft. Mine looks to be a default of 0.2mm. This can be adjusted from `Print Settings -> Support Material -> (Options for support material and raft) Contact Z distance`.
Please note that the closer the part is to the raft, the more likely the part is to sticking to the raft once it cools. So, I would recommend being close by as the part finished so you can quickly remove the raft before it cools with the part. It become especially more difficult with PLA because it becomes hardened during the print process, therefore resulting in a more catastrophic material failure if any part of the object is broken (such as a raft).
I'll also note that I primarily use MakerWare for my machine and v3.8 has made it much easier to apply these types of settings. It's similar to Slic3r's interface and no longer in a JSON file that pops up. Through the MakerWare interface, you can navigate to `Settings -> Custom -> Extrusion Speeds -> First Layer` to adjust the print speed. You'll also notice that there is a separate option for `First Layer Raft` that ensures that the two values are separate in the post-processer. I believe it still may be possible to use MakerWare for a non-MakerBot machine, just export the file to GCode and you should be able to load it directly into your machine via SD card or possibly even Slic3r (it might change some of the code though).
> 2 votes
# Answer
You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first layer of the model is printing on the raft so it can go at regular speeds.
> -1 votes
---
Tags: speed, slic3r
--- |
thread-208 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/208 | What is the life expectancy of the Kossel? | 2016-01-13T20:02:02.020 | # Question
Title: What is the life expectancy of the Kossel?
I'm considering buying this package, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer.
It's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after.
The question is, what is the life expectancy of this printer, given the component list? Assuming the printer is constructed properly and properly taken care of, but used once or twice a week for several hours.
Is it possible to make an estimate of how many years this particular printer could be used before it starts showing signs of wear?
**Parts list:**
1x Complete set of platics for Kossel Mini (PLA)
1x Kossel mini Extrusion set
1x traxxas (set of 12)
1x Carbon Tube (kossel printing arms) Set of 6
3x Square slider (40cm)
1x Megatronics v3.0 - Kossel kit
1x Heated Bed glass round 17cm diameter (Borosilicate)
1x Kapton heater mat round 16cm diameter
1x Power supply 12V (240/115V / 20A MAX)
3x Aluminum Pulley GT2
5x Timing belt 1m x 6mm (GT2)
1x E3D v6 - HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm
1x Hobbed bolt v1.1
1x Brass drive gear (Wade's compatible)
6x Bearing 623ZZ
125x (1 pcs) Screw M3X8 Philips
125x (1 pcs) Washer M3 normal
125x (1 pcs) Nut M3 normal
6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X16 Philips
12x (1 pcs) Screw M3X25 Philips
6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X20 Philips
10x PTFE tubing, 2inner/4outer diameter (10cm)
1x Bowden setup - J head comp. plug set (1.75mm)
1x E3D v6 - Threaded Bowden Coupling - 1.75mm
2x (1 pcs) Screw M3X40 Philips
6x (1 pcs) Screw M2X16 Philips
1x Power cable 1.8m
6x M4 Threaded rod - Custom length
# Answer
> 7 votes
Much like your car, the number of miles, or the number of prints that you can get out of it is entirely up to how well **you** can maintain it.
A 3D Printer is a machine, and a machine needs general maintenance; if you see something starting to break - or get worn out - or anything abnormal, fix it.
I am sure that if you had something like a MakerBot, it would require less maintenance then a fully home built machine, but if you are building it from scratch, I am sure you don't mind.
I am still rocking a 3 year old home built MendalMax, and have both made some improvements, and had to make some repairs along the way - but it is still in damn good condition.
For a $600 investment, I can say you will get a few years out of it if you take proper care of it. By the time the end of its life comes (5+ years), I am sure there will be much better printers available for cheaper, and you will never look back :)
* Tighten all your nuts and bolts
* Keep it calibrated
* Keep belts properly tensioned
* Oil X, Y, and Z rods
* Clean of any dust and scrap plastic (compressed air can?)
* Clean hobbed bolt
* Clean extruder
* Ensure all electronic connections are secure
* Check wires at points of movement for wear
!remindme 5years
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have built a Kossel too. Got lots of tips from the Google Deltaprinter group. Most important when using the Traxxas rod ends is to have the metal parts go into the freezer and the plastic parts in warm water(not boiling, just 60 degrees celsius or so). Then put the 2 together, due to the fact the metal crimps just a little and the hot water softens the plastic a bit, they will fit easy and will be stiff longer. These mounts tend to wear out causing play in the effector. I have printed 100's of hours on my Kossel mini with traxxas rods and still moves very nice and prints accurately.
---
Tags: quality, life-expectancy, kossel
--- |
thread-309 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/309 | My endstops have 4 female plugs, but the examples on the RepRap Prusa i3 Site have 3; what are each of them for? | 2016-01-17T01:23:41.323 | # Question
Title: My endstops have 4 female plugs, but the examples on the RepRap Prusa i3 Site have 3; what are each of them for?
The Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3:
Since these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The website shows exactly what each wire is for. Both middle wires are ground, the wire on the same side as the lever is the signal wire and the last wire is the power wire.
---
Tags: prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-313 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/313 | Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects | 2016-01-17T13:27:51.030 | # Question
Title: Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects
My printed objects have horizontal holes in them (as seen I the picture below):
This doesn't only look bad it also makes the object break at the seems.
Looking carefully at the printing process I can see that after a retraction there's a small amount of time the hotend isn't extruding plastic.
Material: PLA, Printer Robo 3D R1+, Slicer: Cura
# Answer
> 9 votes
(answering my own question)
The problem was the extrusion distance settings in Cura's advanced tab, reducing the value to 1.5mm solved the problem.
Other problems with the same symptoms:
* Partially blocked hotend nozzle.
* Incorrectly configured steps per mm for the extruder motor - this youtube video shows how to test and configure this.
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Tags: extrusion
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thread-326 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/326 | Understand and developing firmware - IDE help | 2016-01-18T16:16:23.127 | # Question
Title: Understand and developing firmware - IDE help
Lately I've been working on tweaking firmware to fix functions on my printer. A few of my biggest issues are lack of understanding of C and finding out how the multiple cpp and h files are linked. Most of what I am doing is easy enough to do with copy and paste but with most firmwares having 30+ individual files it's hard to find where each parameter comes from or goes to.
I've been looking at Eclipse with an Arduino plugin as well as Visual Studio (or Atmel Studio) with the Visual Micro plugin. What I would like is an easy way to view where each parameter is used, maybe highlight the parameter and it shows all instances or something similar? Is there any IDE that offers something like that or is everyone using the Arduino IDE for firmware development?
# Answer
As far as I know, Marlin - assuming that is the firmware you are using - is a standard C++ (the big brother of C) project that can be opened and compiled in the Arduino IDE, but also - at least - edited lots of other IDEs.
Depending on your OS, there are several alternatives. Visual Studio, Atmel Studio, Qt Creator, XCode, Eclipse, Visual Studio Code, Atom, Sublime Text and the Arduino IDE are just some of them.
I also believe that this question should be moved to StackOverflow. However, if you have questions as to how you can make *specific* modification to Marlin, this forum is the right place to ask. If that is the case, consider reformulating your question!
> 1 votes
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Tags: firmware
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thread-329 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/329 | Installing E3D v6 extruder electronics on Ultimaker Original+ | 2016-01-19T00:13:36.493 | # Question
Title: Installing E3D v6 extruder electronics on Ultimaker Original+
I printed the mechanical parts to mount a E3D v6 on my Ultimaker Original+. But I don't know how to connect my heating cartridge, my thermistor and my 3 fans to the electronic board. Any idea?
Edit: I should have said I'm using the following design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount
My main problem is to connect all 3 fans, as the original design of the UMO+ is only using one.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm not certain exactly what you're asking, but I'll give this a try. If I've misunderstood, please give more details.
It sounds like you're upgrading to the E3D v6. If so, the heater, thermistor, and fans should connect to the same places as the previous ones did. The exception would be if you had thermocouples instead of thermistors before; that's a more complicated change.
If the *connectors* are different, you'll need to get matching connectors from a parts supplier (post a picture if you're having trouble identifying them). Fortunately each of the items you mentioned has 2 wires, and for the heater and thermistor polarity doesn't matter.
For fans, polarity *does* matter, so match up red vs. black, or just try it one way, and if the fan doesn't turn, then swap the wires. Some fans have a third wire, which could be used for measuring the actual rotation speed (see \[http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How\_PC\_Fans\_Work\]); but it's not necessary.
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Tags: electronics, ultimaker-original, e3d-v6
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thread-35 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/35 | Printing Plastic Replacement Parts | 2016-01-12T19:57:20.273 | # Question
Title: Printing Plastic Replacement Parts
On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car.
I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original. Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option. I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.
Is there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?
# Answer
The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.
Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.
> 12 votes
# Answer
There is scanning technology: either hardware or software (such software typically works from multiple 2D photographs). It has limitations, but is an active research area, and getting better all the time. "Autodesk 123D Catch" and "3-Sweep" are a couple examples.
One tradeoff between automatic and manual is the complexity of the shape you need to duplicate. Sometimes you can make a much simpler shape that still works, and/or thicken the part so it doesn't break the next time. That can make manual design much more attractive.
> 3 votes
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Tags: software, scanning, replacement-parts
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thread-319 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/319 | How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament | 2016-01-18T10:29:58.050 | # Question
Title: How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament
Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as using sandpaper - but rather works like acetone baths for ABS.
In particular, I want to treat ColorFabb's XT filament made from the Eastman Amphora™ 3D polymer (datasheet). This is also the polymer is also used in:
* ColorFabb nGen and XT
* Taulman3D n-vent
* TripTech Athiri 1800
* 3DXTech 3DXNano
# Answer
Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET. It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it. There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid PET+ along with a few other filaments and got some good results.
http://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet
The links in the blog don't work for me, but google was able to find slightly larger versions:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog\_2014-03-20-18.38.04-1024x613.jpg?16147388421280943481
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog\_2014-03-21-18.16.28-1024x612.jpg?9543779874607042697
> 3 votes
# Answer
I've found a chart which covers several plastics and solvents and only two of them (Chloromethane and Chloroform) are rated "D" which includes dissolving the material and both seem to be quite nasty and I doubt you will be able to purchase them without being placed on several lists.
Is it possible that something like XTC-3D from Smooth-On would work for you?
Also some more information on dissolving PET here, several sources also mention PET is affected by Hydrogen Peroxide but they do not mention to what degree the plastic is affected.
> 2 votes
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Tags: filament, post-processing, pet
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thread-233 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/233 | How should I clean my extruder when changing materials? | 2016-01-14T00:23:36.260 | # Question
Title: How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?
I often switch my print material, i.e. ABS / PLA / Wood / Flex,
How can I best clean out my extruder between them to ensure I don't contaminate my next print?
# Answer
If you feel you need to *clean* the nozzle the best approach is a *cold pull*. You can perform this procedure with many printers, however, you should seek advice from your printer manufacturer before attempting this process if you have any doubts.
With the previously filament still loaded and the tool head cold:
* Begin to raise the temperature of the tool to the printing temperature of *the next filament you intend to load*
* As it begins to warm up perform any tasks you normally perform during filament unloading (open the idler, for example). **You should not be fighting against the extruder drive gear or any other part of the tool during this process!**
* With a fair amount of pressure begin pulling on the filament
* The old filament should eventually release from inside of the tool leaving the end of the filament roughly in a nice molded shape of the inside of the tool. Begin loading the next filament you intend to print and manually feed some filament through as the tool finishes heating
Anything left over from the previous filament including pigment or other residue should be stuck to the end of the filament.
You can perform *cold pulls* as many times as you wish by loading new filament, extruding a small amount, letting it completely cool and repeating the steps.
> 19 votes
# Answer
In most cases, removing the old filament from the printer, inserting the new filament in, and running the new filament through the printer for a short period of time will clean the nozzle. The skirt of the print can also be a time during the actual print for the old filament to be flushed. Assuming the skirt is long enough, all that needs to be done is the new filament inserted and the print started.
Assuming that extruding new filament does not fix the problem, there is a more serious problem such as a clogged extrusion head that needs to be fixed with other methods.
> 8 votes
# Answer
Some people use a nylon "cleaning" filament when switching types of filaments. It heats well to a variety of temperatures and seems to stick well to whatever is in there when pulling it back out. Be sure to heat it up to the temperature of the filament being removed to get that to bind with the nylon.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I always find the best way is to run more filament through the nozzle. Just enough for a full colour change.
> 2 votes
# Answer
eSun has a cleaning filament that extrudes at a wide range of temperatures. It may seem ridiculous to use filament that costs over $100 USD per kilo to purge the nozzle, but it's very convenient and in practice, you don't use much each time (it's sold in 100g packs). I'm still using some samples I received with some filament over a year ago.
Cold pulls will probably be more effective though (as described in another answer), they're just more effort. I usually use cold pulls with nylon when I want to clear out my nozzle, either as part of routine maintenance or when switching to plastics that are sensitive to contamination (usually PETG or ninjaflex). I usually use the cleaning filament when I want to change from a dark to a light or clear filament, especially if the new filament is expensive. Most of the time I just feed in enough of the new filament to purge out the old, with the temperature set to the max of the two.
> 2 votes
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Tags: maintenance, print-material, extruder
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thread-321 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/321 | Can a common 3D printer be used to print masks for PCBs which use SMD components? | 2016-01-18T12:28:29.653 | # Question
Title: Can a common 3D printer be used to print masks for PCBs which use SMD components?
Common 3D printers (read "cheap") may be used to print masks for PCBs (printed-circuit boards) which use PTH (through-hole) components.
But can they be used to print PCBs which use SMD components? I'd like to make boards at least for Arduino-like SMD chips.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In addition to the thermal issues Tormod raised, there is a conductivity issue. Present conductive filaments are much less conductive than copper. The power loss may be enough to affect functionality. Also, the lost power goes to heat, making the thermal problems worse.
For bulk materials, "volume resistivity" is measured in "Ohm-cm", which is the resistance of a 1 cm cube of the material, measured from one entire face to the opposite entire face (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical\_resistivity\_and\_conductivity).
Copper has a volume resistivity of about 1.68 *micro*Ohm-cm.
Proto-pasta conductive PLA filament claims 15 ohm-cm (http://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/conductive-pla). Functionalize F-Electic™ claims 0.75 ohm-cm (http://functionalize.com/about/functionalize-f-electric-highly-conductive-filament/).
Printing itself significantly raises resistivity. Proto-pasta claims 30 ohm-cm along X and Y, 115 along Z. More intuitively, each cm of length of a 2.5mm wide printed trace, 0.4mm thick, should add several hundred ohms with the Proto-pasta, or several tens of ohms with the F-electric. That may be enough to matter.
It's probably worth mentioning that there's a specialized PCB printer (the "Voltera") that uses (pricey) conductive ink, and can also dispense solder paste: http://www.computerworld.com/article/2885188/3d-circuit-board-printer-a-smash-hit-on-kickstarter.html
# Answer
> 1 votes
In theory, I imagine you can, but there are some practical considerations that might need some thought:
If you have a desktop printer with multiple extruders, you could probably print with both one *conductive* and one *structural* filament, and thereby build circuits in 3D.
One concern would be the low melting points of most 3D printed filaments, since one would have to limit the heat generated by the mounted components and connections so that the structure of the "board" would not be melted.
Mounting components to the board would also differ from a normal PCB, since you would have to connect the components with the conductive filament without melting the structure of the board. In other words, you probably would have to use conductive filament as "solder", and melt components into place.
Whether you could use typical tools used for mounting SMD components with conductive filament as solder is beyond my knowledge.
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Tags: electronics
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thread-334 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/334 | Comparative design methods for joints that will be joined together | 2016-01-19T04:55:24.273 | # Question
Title: Comparative design methods for joints that will be joined together
I want to 3D-print some parts that will be later joined together along a seam. When modeling these separate parts, what are some methods that work well with 3D-printed pieces? For example, if I were doing wood working, I might choose dowel and pin joints or mortise and tenon joints or glue overlapping pieces. What methods translate well into use with 3D-printed plastics? How does the answer change depending on the orientation of the joint along the printing direction?
# Answer
One of my favorite techniques is to join pieces with screws, and include a tapered feature that helps align the parts. A single screw can give a very strong joint, that is well-aligned and won't twist. Another advantage is that such joints can be printed in any orientation, since the tapered feature can be designed with 45 degree angles.
Here is a cross-section example of such a joint:
> 5 votes
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Tags: print-preparation, 3d-design
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thread-344 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/344 | How can I set the position in Pronterface? | 2016-01-19T23:18:20.953 | # Question
Title: How can I set the position in Pronterface?
I'm in the process of building a 3D printer and have all the stepper motors wired up and the controller connected to the computer running pronterface.
I can move each axis and also send g-code to the printer.
Now **how can I define the current position to be the 0/0/0 position?** I'd like to move the printer into a position where I think should be the zero position and define it as such in pronterface somehow.
# Answer
> 7 votes
> G92 X0 Y0 Z0
tells the printer that the current position is (0,0,0).
# Answer
> 3 votes
There's a handy list of G0-codes at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code -- though the list is too big to be convenient for finding a code if you're not already sure what it's called... :(
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Tags: software, pronterface
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thread-13 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13 | Resolution Drawbacks | 2016-01-12T19:18:57.943 | # Question
Title: Resolution Drawbacks
With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?
I am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.
# Answer
The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.
The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly as the layer count is increased.
To counteract this, a heated (or even just a draft free) enclosure makes a big difference. Having a heated print bed helps significantly, as long as the bed itself resists deformation (a sheet metal or PCB bed will bend more than glass under the same tension, for instance).
The actual plastic strength, however, appears increased. Laying down thinner layers of material appears to increase the bond strength between layers.
> 15 votes
# Answer
Regarding the sturdiness of the final print, I believe it depends on the inter-layer adhesion of the filament itself - which varies greatly. Also, normally, thicker layers would increase the strength of the print up to a certain point.
An informal study of strength/layer height ratio can be found here: this study suggests that the strength of the print increases up to a layer height of 0.25 mm, and then stabilizes.
On the other hand, printing at high resolution often will hide defects that occur from bad quality filament, in particular filament that has degraded by absorbing too much moisture. Due to the less amount of plastic extruded per layer at high resolutions, some general printing defects also tend to be less pronounced and easier handle afterwards.
> 5 votes
# Answer
It's also worth noting that the ratio of nozzle diameter to layer height affects strength. The layer height is typically set slightly smaller than the nozzle diameter, so the nozzle "squeezes" the new plastic onto the previous layer. This is especially important for the first layer, because it affects how well the object sticks to the bed; but it also affects inter-layer strength.
> 4 votes
# Answer
In my experience building with smaller layers also makes bridging and overhangs more pronounced and less likely to fail.
The smaller layers allow gradual changes for overhangs that are more abrupt with thicker layer.
> 3 votes
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Tags: quality, resolution, fdm
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thread-339 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/339 | MakerBot Replicator 1 Voltage Regulator Fix | 2016-01-19T15:36:34.467 | # Question
Title: MakerBot Replicator 1 Voltage Regulator Fix
My Replicator (you know, the one made of balsa wood) has blown a voltage regulator on its MightyBoard for the second time. The first time, MakerBot graciously replaced it. However, they replaced with the same model board with no apparent fix for the commonly faulty voltage regulator. I can't afford the now $500 replacement board, so my option is to replace the faulty component and hope no further damage was taken on the board.
As MakerBot Industries did not need me to send in my old board, I've followed these steps to try and replace the voltage regulator on the old board.
I've offset the voltage regulator towards the power jack, jumped the remaining pin on the voltage regulator to the remaining lead on the board (where the old voltage regulator was), but I'm confused what/where the green wire does/goes (mine is blue on my machine). The image looks like he just soldered it onto the heat sink pad.
I tried to test it by plugging in the power and the RGB LED strip. The stepper motor driver LEDs turned on, but the LED strip and none of the other on-board LEDs turned on. I'm not very seasoned when it comes to electronics, so can anyone explain what the actual pinout should be or suggest other ways to resolve this issue?
## Update: Old Board Replacement
So far I've replaced the regulator on my old board with some success. Before the replacement, the board wouldn't turn on (on-board LEDs wouldn't turn on). Now, all of the proper status LEDs turn on, but the board seems to be stuck in a boot sequence. The LCD screen provides two lines of block characters (as it normally does when initializing), but just hangs up there. I tried connecting the machine to my PC to try and restore the board to factory settings and install the latest firmware. However, the PC couldn't find the machine and I began to smell a bit of burning. I'm not sure if this is a result of permanent damage from the original regulator failing, or improper installation of the new regulator.
I'm going to dig around a bit more before attempting this fix on my main board. I'll edit this post as I continue the project.
## Update: New Board Replacement
So, I've now attempted the fix on the newest board (the reason for this question). The results of this board are the same as the old one. I actually get power on the main board, but the LCD screen just shows two solid lines. I've taken pictures of what I've done.
# Answer
What's the part number of the regulator you're putting in? The pin assignments vary from one part to another, but you can probably find them from the part number online. Some parts have the ground pin also connected to a metal part of their case. The green wire from the board *should* be ground (no promises!)
Assuming you've got a voltmeter, you can use it to find out which pins on the board are power and ground (easiest to do before the regulator is installed...). Then once installed, check that you're really getting 5V versus ground on the remaining (output) pin.
Since 2 of these burned out on you, I suggest taking steps to reduce the strain on the regulator. Voltage regulators turn the excess power into heat. Some things that can help:
* Use heat sink grease to conduct heat from the regulator to the circuit board, the adjacent socket, etc. Hot melt glue, as the instructions you linked to mention, won't likely provide as much heat conduction.
* Attach a heat sink to the regulator, or a *bigger* heat sink.
* Get more air blowing across the regulator. You could do this by moving the regulator slightly, adding a fan, adding something to redirect some air onto the regulator, etc.
* Swap in a bigger voltage regulator (that is, one rated for more current)
* Turn down the voltage just a tiny bit on your power supply (if it has a control for that; many do).
Let us know how it turns out!
Steve
> 4 votes
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Tags: fdm, makerbot, replicator-dual, mightyboard, fff
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thread-204 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/204 | How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples? | 2016-01-13T18:02:27.633 | # Question
Title: How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples?
I upgraded to an Mk9 dual extruder, and it came with thermocouples installed instead of the thermistors I had before.
No matter what I did with the thermocouples, the indicated temperature jumped around by as much as 30C or more. In short, after several weeks of fiddling I never got the thermocouples to work well, and replaced them with thermistors, which have been fine.
So my question is: what is required to get thermocouples to give reliable, consistent, accurate readings? Are they just incredibly touchy?
Some things I tried include:
* Of course, one must add circuitry (typically a thermocouple amplifier board such as http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Thermocouple\_Sensor\_Board\_v1), to convert the tiny voltage differences to larger differences usable with Arduino or similar analog inputs.
* Place those boards close to the thermocouples, but far enough that they are at pretty stable temperature themselves.
* Have absolutely no wire extensions of splices, changes of wire types (material), etc.
* Avoid doing repeated measurements too fast.
* I replaced a thermocouple board with 5V through a potentiometer to the analog input pin, to rule out problems in the Arduino, pin configurations, or software, and got stable readings.
* I checked for shorts-to-ground from the heater block, both sides of the thermocouples, the heater itself, etc. None found.
* The thermocouple wires are surrounded by a braided shield (not common or shorted to either thermocouple wire); I tried grounding that at either end and at both ends, to the heat block, the printer frame, the power-supply ground, and the RAMPS board ground. These had various effects (sometimes large), but I couldn't find any configuration that made the readings stable (much less accurate!).
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks!
Steve
# Answer
Thermocouples work by passively generating VERY small voltages via the Seebeck effect -- usually a few tens of millivolts. They're literally just a pair of wires made from two different special alloys, electrically connected together at the "hot" end. That wire junction can be mounted inside whatever kind of attachment tip or lug is desired.
The fact that they're very simple and passive devices makes them extremely precise and consistent between TCs of the same type, MUCH more so than thermistors. Any type-K thermocouple in the world will give you the same accurate output +/-1-2C or so. You can even cut a thermocouple in half, re-twist the ends of the wires together, and it'll still work!
However, the very small (millivolts) signal they generate is quite susceptible to electrical noise and circuit design. The signal voltage has to be greatly amplified to be useful. So it doesn't take much EMR from your heater or stepper wires to interfere with the TC reading. A frequent problem with TC circuits in 3d printers is the dreaded GROUND LOOP -- if the "hot" tip is electrically connected to the hot block, voltage and current on the heater and motor wires can induce small currents through the TC wires that totally screw up the millivolt signal. The amplifier picks up these stray voltages and it throws off the temp read. So, there are some important guidelines for keeping noise out of the TC wires:
* The TC wires must be electrically insulated from the mounting hardware (eye lug, thermowell, whatever your extruder has). You can check this with a multimeter -- you want infinite / out of range resistance from the TC leads to the mounting tip and hot block. While you're at it, make sure your heater cartridge wires aren't shorting to the hot block -- that's unsafe and can also cause problems with TCs.
* Keep the two TC wires close together, and not immediately parallel to noise sources like PWM-controlled heaters or stepper wiring. If you must run the TC in a bundle with the other wires, TWIST the heater/stepper wiring pairs. (For steppers, twist each coil pair to a different pitch if possible. You don't need to twist the separate coil pairs to each other.)
Another common issue with TC circuits is the COLD JUNCTION COMPENSATION. A thermocouple doesn't measure tip temperature, it measures the DIFFERENCE in temperature between the hot tip and the cold junction where the TC is connected to either the amp or copper wiring. The TC amp has an onboard thermistor that it uses to add the temp at the cold junction to the measured signal from the thermocouple. There are a few things you need to do to make sure the cold-junction compensation works properly:
* You should run TC wire all the way from the "hot" tip to the TC amp. You CAN splice it and install plugs, but only with more type-K TC wire and proper type-K thermocouple plugs. These use the same metal as the TC wire so they don't generate undesired junction voltages that interfere with the TC signal. If you splice copper wire between the TC and the amp, any temp differences along the copper will not be measured! This is a particularly big problem if you splice to copper inside a warm enclosure and then run copper to an amp outside the enclosure.
* The amp should not be super hot. The onboard thermistor is designed to accurately measure temperatures reasonably close to room temp, not hot-block temps.
* There should not be large temperature gradients near the amp or between the TC wire termination and the actual amp chip. Place the amp far enough away from the hot end and other heat sources (like stepper motors) that it isn't experiencing weird temp profiles.
If you do the above, the TC will output a good signal, and the amp will read it properly. But there's one more hitch. The mainboard has to know how to understand the amp's output. 3D printer control boards that are designed exclusively for TCs, like Mightyboards, usually use digital communication between the amp and the main control chip (MCU). This is high-reliability and does not require any special firmware configuration -- support is baked in. But if you're strapping an external TC amp onto a board that is expecting thermistors, **you will have to tell the firmware how to read the signal from the amp.** The most common technique is for the amp to output a linear voltage signal to the MCU's normal thermistor input (ADC). Then you configure the firmware to use the appropriate "thermistor table" (really a voltage lookup table) for that particular amp. Depending on your controller board, you also may need to make sure the regular thermistor pull-up/pull-down resistors aren't affecting the amp's output.
So you need to make sure:
* You don't have electrical noise issues
* The cold-junction compensation is working as intended
* The firmware and controller board is configured correctly for your amp chip's output
If you do all that, a TC should give superior accuracy and reliability over a thermistor.
> 7 votes
# Answer
It sound like you just have a defective thermocouple. But, I just did a google search for "Why are thermocouples inaccurate" and found this article on identifying bad thermocouples and preventative maintenance. I never thought of a lot of the tips in the article, but I haven't had such drastic temperature errors either.
> 2 votes
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Tags: extruder, maintenance
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thread-239 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/239 | Bulging filaments - How can catch them before they go in the printer | 2016-01-14T05:15:09.270 | # Question
Title: Bulging filaments - How can catch them before they go in the printer
After multiple jams from bulging filaments on two spools I'm getting frustrated. One, right before a job was done.
Is there something I can do to prevent these bulges in filaments from ruining jobs?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future before it's a disaster?
He's a picture of one I found using google.
# Answer
> 3 votes
That's my picture :-)
I use a filament monitor with an encoder wheel that pauses the print if the filament stops moving (because a bulge got stuck, or filament ran out, or the hot end jammed, or whatever). I have a bunch of these on multiple printers: http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/products/tunell-3d-printer-filament-monitor
The Tunell monitor works with Sailfish, Marlin, and Smoothie to my knowledge. This particular one doesn't work with Repetier, but you can wire up a simple encoder wheel to use Repetier's filament monitor functionality.
Like other people have mentioned, you should avoid cheap filament, and return spools with bulges. I personally only see bulges like that maybe every 20 spools or less.
# Answer
> 6 votes
How to catch *and* fix these on the fly? That would be difficult..
But this is an issue you really should not have.
Could it be an issue with filament storage?
Or is it coming from the manufacturer with these bulges? If so, I would try contacting ( you may have gotten a bad batch? ), or finding a new retailer if this happens often.
I have gone through a lot of pounds of both ABS and PLA and never come across this.
# Answer
> 4 votes
**Bottom line: *The easiest way to prevent this is to avoid cheap filament.***
You can get mid-grade filament for a few dollars more than the ultra cheap stuff.
In other words I tried out some 10$ stuff from ebay, and while it might print for a little while it notoriously clogged in any prints greater than 1hr.
20-25$ is the going rate for mid-grade filament on amazon and check the reviews I've had good consistency there.
# Answer
> 4 votes
There is a filament width sensor design at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584 -- cleverly, the author tweaked Marlin so it adjusts extrusion in real time to correct for variations.
That said, I agree with several others that buying filament with better quality control, and keeping it dry and unchewed by Labradors, should be enough. :)
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Tags: filament
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thread-303 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/303 | How is 3D printing done in space? | 2016-01-16T20:21:06.633 | # Question
Title: How is 3D printing done in space?
This article states that 3D printing has been accomplished in outer space, on the International Space Station.
I'm curious as to how this works differently from 3D printing on Earth. Are there any extra measures that needed to be taken to ensure that the filament would be correctly extruded onto the print bed, or during other steps?
# Answer
> 18 votes
Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.
Some people over at 3Dprint.com raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning their 3D-printer upside down and on it's side:
> there’s not really much difference at all. It’s quite interesting to see how the orientation has little effect on the quality.
One of the early 3D-printer models - the Bukito printer - demonstrated that their printer was so portable it even could print on the move, and upside down.
In other words, some consumer 3D printers already print upside down, and so they would probably print in zero gravity as well!
*(That's the short story anyway. Have a look at Ryan's post, who gives a great description of the more intricate parts of space printing!)*
# Answer
> 8 votes
To answer your question, you have to consider how the melted filament sticks to the print bed and to other layers, and if gravity has any affect on how it sticks. The answer is that gravity does *not* have any real affect on the stick-to-itivity of the filament. Instead, the plastic bonds to the print bed surface, and then subsequent layers fuse with the previous layer. Nor does gravity have any affect on how the filament is fed or how the belts and gears move. Certain filament roll holders may not be able to be used if they do not clamp the roll down, and the printer also needs to be clamped down. But, perhaps surprisingly, there isn't really anything else that needs to be done differently to make a printer work in space.
# Answer
> 7 votes
The first big space-specific issue is actually air quality. You can't just open a window to air out the molten-ABS smell from the ISS!
FFF printers put out fumes and nanoparticles. In a space station, the same air gets recycled over and over, and the air purification systems have a specific set of contaminants that they are optimized for, as well as a design capacity for air turnover and chemical removal rates that won't be adjusted just because somebody's printing a space-ratchet today. Protecting cabin air quality is a huge design factor for any experiment that goes into space.
The Made in Space printing experiments on the ISS to date were performed in one of the vacuum experiment chambers, so any unfiltered fumes (or fire flare-ups) could be vented directly to space if required. In the long run, this isn't going to work -- other experiments may need the vacuum chamber, or "production" printers may be too large to fit. So the printer needs to have its own internal air purification system.
Another MAJOR design constraint is launch survival. Rocket payloads must be designed for extreme g-forces without 1) damage, or 2) significant internal shifting of mass which would affect the payload center of gravity.
Total payload weight is also quite important here: lifting mass to low Earth orbit is EXPENSIVE.
Surprisingly, the microgravity environment itself isn't that big of a deal. Molten plastic is highly viscous and pretty much stays where you put it long enough to solidify, as long as it's sticking to something. But two impacts do come to mind.
* First, an unsecured filament spool will try to unwind itself. Gravity won't provide the contact friction we usually rely on to keep spools from bird's-nesting. (Think about it: a tightly-wound spool is literally a giant coil-spring.)
* Second, heat flows are different in microgravity -- you can't rely on passive convection to cool the print or the motors. Accommodations must be made for sufficient forced airflow and heat-sinking on anything that requires cooling. And that includes the enclosure itself, since, as mentioned above, the print chamber must be sealed up tight for air quality control.
Finally, reliability is critical. Amazon doesn't deliver to the ISS (yet). Even a single stripped screw may take the printer out of commission for months until a replacement part can be fit into an upcoming supply launch. Having the printer catch on fire because something shorted would be catastrophic.
So, really, it's all about making a printer robust enough to make it up there, operate safely, and never break. Printing upside-down is trivial in comparison.
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Tags: applications
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thread-352 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/352 | Is this fuse a good choice for my Prusa i3's power supply and RAMPS 1.4? | 2016-01-20T14:06:31.790 | # Question
Title: Is this fuse a good choice for my Prusa i3's power supply and RAMPS 1.4?
Wondering if this fuse is safe to use in this switch/plug to turn on /off a 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply that will power a RAMPS 1.4 board for a Prusa i3 with an external led display that contains an SD Card Reader.
I found the suggestion to use it here.
# Answer
**No, do not use this fuse.** The current rating is too high to be reasonable for your printer. It will "work" in the sense that your printer will get power, but it won't provide anywhere near as much protection as a lower-rated fuse.
10A is a lot of current for mains voltage. Depending on what else you have plugged in, there is a fair chance your home's 15A breaker will trip before this fuse does, which kind of defeats the point of having it.
Even for "fast" fuses, it takes a significant amount of time for them to blow when conducting their rated current. The internal fusible link has to heat up and melt before the fuse stops conducting. The less the overload current exceeds the rating, the longer that takes. A 10A fuse conducting a 10.5A short might take 30 seconds to trip. In the meantime, your printer is melting. Lower-rated fuses will trip faster for the same short and thus provide better protection.
*You need to size fuses as small as possible for the required current draw if you want to have any hope of rapidly cutting off an excessive-current event.*
I would recommend a 4A fuse in the USA for this 350w power supply. (Note: the listing title says 360 but the photos show 350.) I use 4A fuses in several printers with 120v / 350w PSUs and they do not trip. But you can do the math for yourself:
350 watts / 120 volts / 80% efficiency = 3.64A
The smallest fuse you can find that is larger than this value is what you should use.
Now, we can argue over whether 80% is the right efficiency value... it could be lower. The PSU label says 6.5A input is required, but that amount of current draw implies either a \<50% efficiency (which is quite poor for this kind of PSU) or would only occur for abuse/surge scenarios like starting very large motors. Such short-lived inrush events generally won't trip a fuse unless you do something dumb like lock the rotor. And none of that applies to the small microstepping-driver stepper motor systems we're working with here. This PSU should not draw more than 4A in normal 3D printer use.
Looking at this on the other end -- how much damage will 10A do versus 4A? Lots. If the short is in the 12v system, and the PSU's short protection doesn't trip in (because it's a cheap knock-off) you would roughly multiply the AC fuse current times 10 to get the DC current. And 40A is a downright scary amount of current! Depending on wire gauge, putting 40A through heatbed wiring may make it smell and smoke. Whereas putting 100A through heatbed wiring will almost certainly start a fire.
You're much safer with a 4A or even 6A fuse for this PSU than a 10A fuse.
> 9 votes
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Tags: electronics, prusa-i3-rework, switching-power-supply, ramps-1.4
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thread-341 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/341 | Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer | 2016-01-19T21:21:46.710 | # Question
Title: Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer
I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.
The printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Desktop offers an upgrade to v7.5 I'm not sure if it's a good idea with this non-Makerbot branded printer.
I've also seen information on upgrading this printer to Sailfish v7.5, is this the same thing as Makerbot firmware v7.5?
# Answer
> 5 votes
The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge
The entire FF Creator line, in turn, is cloned from the original Makerbot Replicator 1. So you can use Makerbot slicing profiles for the Replicator 1. Just keep in mind that Makerbot does not generally test new software revs with their older printers, and DEFINITELY does not test new software revs with competitor knock-offs. Sometimes they appear to break functionality for non-Makerbot machines on purpose. So recent versions of Makerbot Desktop may not "play nice" with your FlashForge. **The most recent "known good" free slicer you should use with this printer is Makerware 2.4.x. You can find links by searching the FF Google Group.**
On that note, you may have received instructions to use ReplicatorG with your printer. But RepG is abandonware: development stopped years ago. It should only be used for firmware updates, not as a slicer. You should also only use the most recent version posted on the Sailfish page on Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084
Using older versions of RepG with newer firmware revs will corrupt your EEPROM! Only use the version downloaded from the link above.
The firmware that comes with the printer is FlashForge's slightly-customized build of either Sailfish or Makerbot's Replicator 1/2/2x firmware. But here's the trick: Makerbot's Rep1/2/2x firmware is just an old, out-of-date, slightly customized version of Sailfish. Makerbot stopped keeping up with bug-fixes and feature additions a long time ago. **Everything is Sailfish:** just different versions. You should use the most recent official release version listed at:
http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/
Follow the instructions in the Sailfish manual from the link above, and RepG will automatically pull the right builds from the official mirror and populate a list of printer options to choose. The trick here is which build to download. As of 1-21-16, there is not an official Monoprice Architect build yet. Which would mean editing a machine xml profile to avoid the firmware throwing warnings. I STRONGLY recommend getting used to the printer using factory firmware before trying to fight with custom machine profiles... But here is the basic process to pick a Sailfish firmware build when you're ready:
First: which Atmega processor version do you have? The large chip in the middle of the control board will either say 1280 or 2560. You need to know which version you have. Bad things happen if you load the wrong version.
Second: What is the tooth count on the X and Y drivetrain pulleys? To my knowledge, FF always uses 17-tooth pulleys, which matches the Replicator 1 and FF Creator profiles. The Rep2 and 2x use 18t pulleys, so only use those builds if you have those pulleys. People often mess this up and their prints end up with dimensions ~5% off in X and Y.
Third: The Architect has one extruder and no heatbed, so firmware builds that expect those to be connected (Rep 1 Dual, Creator, etc) will throw errors if loaded. You can fix this from the LCD screen or RepG, but that's a whole separate question. Do some printing and learn about the printer before attempting any firmware update so you'll know what to do if you pick a build with the wrong parts.
Fourth: This one is just for the sake of completeness. Some FF models were shipped with off-spec heatbeds that require special firmware builds to prevent drawing too much current and overheating / overloading the power supply. The Architect doesn't have that, but firmware builds for those printer models (eg I believe the FF Creator 2560) will under-power regular heatbeds. This is just something you need to know with the Architect if you decide to install a heatbed later. But it's a really critical safety warning for people with those off-spec heatbeds.
If this all seems complicated, that's because FlashForge (and in turn Monoprice) relies heavily on the open source Sailfish project to maintain the software ecosystem behind this line of printers. FlashForge has some internal builds that they use for flashing new bots, but these are not kept particularly up-to-date. Nor does FlashForge release the source files, so it's quite opaque where exactly the stock firmware differs from mainstream Sailfish. In the long run, you should install mainline Sailfish. But it's ok to stick with the factory firmware until you get used to the printer.
To summarize: Because there is not an existing Sailfish build, you're going to need to do some investigating and some experimenting to figure out which build will work. Don't try that until you're familiar with the printer. Post on the FlashForge Google Group when you're ready for help.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Since the printer has no heater, I'd advise some sleuthing
1. Look at the motherboard. Find the big black square chip and see if it is a ATmega 1280 or 2560. Likely it's a 1280, but you never know. This will impact which firmware build you use.
2. If you will eventually add a heater PCB, then figure out the size (wattage) of the power supply. It may be big enough now for a heated platform, or maybe not. I guess you can cross that bridge if/when you add a HBP (heated build platform). However, it can make a difference as to which firmware build you load as some builds of Sailfish will intentionally serialize heating so as to not put too high of a load on the power supply (PSU).
Armed with the above info, you can then decide if you want a 1280 or 2560 build of Sailfish. And if you want a build which will serialize eventual use of an HBP or not.
Serialized: MakerBot Replicator 1 Single & Dual (implied ATmega 1280), MakerBot Replicator 1 with ATmega 2560
Non-serialized: FlashForge Creator I, II & X (implied ATmega 1280)
For a non-serialized, 2560 build know that the FlashForge one is for a poorly behaved heater PCB and you likely won't want it. That sort of leaves you without a good, non-serialized choice. In a pinch you can use the ZYYX 3D build for a 2560. Or you can contact the Sailfish team directly: speaking with very certain knowledge, I can assure you that they'd be happy to do a targetted build for your machine. However, at present they lack info to do so (e.g., build volume, distances from endstops to center of build platform, etc.).
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Tags: firmware, makerbot, monoprice-maker-architect
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thread-372 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/372 | Maintaining fine details while applying smoothing methods | 2016-01-22T06:03:58.597 | # Question
Title: Maintaining fine details while applying smoothing methods
I've been reading and experimenting with Acetone vapour smoothing on some printed ABS parts. My problem is that I need to selectively smoothen the printed parts which vapor smoothing doesn't allow. In particular, the cogs, whose sides I was trying to make smooth ended, up with smooth rounded tips, which was a disappointment.
An example of what I was trying to smoothen is would be something like this:
So how can I maintain fine details (like the cog tips in the image above) while applying smoothing methods to printed parts?
# Answer
A technique I've used in the past is to make a acetone slurry of the same filament used to print your object, and carefully paint the details you need to smooth. You must be careful and only do a very thin coat or you may damage your print. You can add extra coat if needed to make sure the acetone has evaporatored from the previous coat of ABS filaments slurry.
> 4 votes
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Tags: abs, post-processing, smoothing, vapor-smoothing
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thread-389 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/389 | In the standard PC Cable Wire that goes from the wall outlet to the switching power supply, are they standard and what are the wire specifications? | 2016-01-25T14:01:51.620 | # Question
Title: In the standard PC Cable Wire that goes from the wall outlet to the switching power supply, are they standard and what are the wire specifications?
What are the specifications of the three wires inside a PC cable that is used to connect the switching power supply to a US AC outlet.
The positive, negative and ground appear to be the same gauge stranded cable, and I've heard that it can handle 10A, but beyond that I don't really know what the rest of the specifications for the wire are.
# Answer
*Very* basically speaking, electricity works like this:
1. There's some source that delivers a certain **voltage**.
2. You have a device that operates at a certain voltage. **The device voltage and supply voltage should always match.** No, don't put that 120V US device in a 230V outlet in Europe.
3. The device does something. By doing something it draws **current**. Most devices also draw some current when not doing anything.
4. How much power your device draws is the product of these two values:`voltage x current = power`
So far, so good. In your case:
1. > US AC outlet.
the **voltage is 120V**.
2. On this other question of yours you linked to this power supply on amazon. Besides being available gift-wrapped, it states the following feature:
> You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.
110V ≈ 120V, which means the **device voltage matches your supply voltage**.
3. The supply can deliver 30A at 12V on the DC side which means 360W. If it could transform the electricity ideally, without any inefficiency, that would be **3A** at 120V on the AC side. But your supply is unlikely ideal. Wikipedia suggests 60-95% efficiency. Let's be super pessimistic and assume 50%. That means half the power that goes into the switch power supply is turned into heat. In order to still get the 360W out, you have to insert 720W. That means **your device draws 6A** on the AC side.
What does this all mean for your wire? What wire size do you need for this supply?
Coincidentally, the above link to the amazon website showing your power supply also suggests the following PC ATX power supplies to me:
Let's get this straight: You can buy a power supply for a PC and plug it into your outlet without even thinking about what a wire size is. You'd just plug and play. **That PC power supply will potentially draw more current** than **the power supply of your 3D printer**. A standard wire would be able to supply either one of the PC ATX power supplies linked above and would not have a problem delivering a lower current to the power supply of your 3D printer.
The switching supply doesn't have a plug like a PC ATX supply, but that on its own doesn't make it any less secure (if wired up properly). It's just less common for household appliances.
> Ultimately, I'd like to avoid a fire, or damage to the house wiring.
That's a good and valid concern.
PC Power supplies deliver 12V and supply more than enough current (like the examples above). They are probably in use in your house already and did neither set it on fire nor damage the house wiring.
A switching mode power supply is just as secure and if bought from a known brand unlikely to do you any harm either if used properly and within its specifications.
**Ultimately**, this is not a question of secure electricity but a trade-off between secure electricity and the price to pay for it. The standard wire and it's specifications have little to do with this.
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Personally, I also use a cheap switching power supply made in china for my printer. It's very noisy and I pull the plug when I leave it unattended.
> 5 votes
# Answer
It's somewhat unclear what you mean by "standard PC cable", but virtually all desktop computers use IEC C14 sockets/IEC C13 plugs. Such connectors/sockets are rated for 10A 250V and thus you can safely assume that the cord itself will also be able to handle this voltage and current. 10A is what is specified by the IEC, certain North American standards agencies rate C13 cords for up to 15A.
The IEC standard also specifies that the conductors inside of a C13 lead have a cross sectional area of at least 0.75mm^2 and at least 1mm^2 if the cord is longer than 2m.
> 4 votes
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Tags: switching-power-supply, wiring, printer-building
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thread-394 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/394 | When building a RAMPS 1.4 based printer, can I safely plugin just some of the components to test if they are working? | 2016-01-26T05:38:44.720 | # Question
Title: When building a RAMPS 1.4 based printer, can I safely plugin just some of the components to test if they are working?
If I need to test out some of the components of a RAMPS 1.4 based 3D Printer, can I only plug some of them into the board (not all of them) and test them out?
I'd like to test out the NEMA 17 motors without testing the heated bed or extruder. Is this safe and why?
# Answer
> 8 votes
If by components you mean motors, fans, or heated bed, then yes. This is even suggested in the Final Setup instructions on the RAMPS wiki.
> If you think you may have mistakes (in your setup) you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.
There are also printers using RAMPS with no heated bed and other machines that have no extruder at all. Furthermore, from an electronics perspective: if nothing is connected across a terminal no current will flow and therefore there is no damage that can be done. Obviously if you short out the unused connections there will be problems.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes, you can. By leaving components unplugged you would simply have some pins powered that are not in use. But even with all your components plugged in, you would still have some unused, powered pins on your board, so I wouldn't think too hard about that. In some cases it might be needed to mount e.i. fans to cool your electronics while running, but for testing a few stepper motors, you will be just fine.
Exactly how you would address each individual motor depends on your setup, however. My best bet would be to simply rely on your "default" firmware (such as Marlin), and then run commands for testing through Pronterface/PrintRun or similar.
Alternatively, you could upload your own sketch/firmware to the Arduino, and manipulate each stepper driver individually. This is a somewhat more advanced option, though.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As others have also said, this is generally fine. The main things I'd avoid are:
* Don't plug or unplug "heavy" items (mainly motors and heaters) with power on; turn everything off first. This is especially true for motors, whose coils produce a hefty back-voltage when disconnected.
* Be extra careful about stepper *drivers*. For example, some printers use 2 motors for Z, so if you test each axis against one driver, the current requirement may be quite different for each axis.
* Plugging in a limit switch backwards on RAMPS is likely to short +5V straight to ground, which is worth avoiding.
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Tags: ramps-1.4, prusa-i3-rework, printer-building
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thread-401 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/401 | Can general purpose polystryene (not HIPS) be used for 3D printing? | 2016-01-26T16:45:11.463 | # Question
Title: Can general purpose polystryene (not HIPS) be used for 3D printing?
High Impact PolyStyrene (HIPS) is a frequently used filament in 3D printing. It has been touted to have simular properties when printed to ABS and is especially useful for support structures (if the user has a multi-nozzle 3d Printer) as it is soluble in Limonene.
General Purpose PolyStyrene (GPPS) is frequently used in disposible cups, cutlery, etc. I don't believe I have seen it as a 3D printing filament. This is not styrofoam for the purpose of this question despite the identical chemical properties as the incorperated air makes it difficult to recycle.
Would filament produced from GPPS, be usable on most FFF 3D printers that are capable of using ABS, PLA, and HIPS? Are that any particular issues observed with such filaments that would not be observed with HIPS (besides the implied decrease in impact resistance)?
Note: For the purpose of this question, I am assuming that the filament can be produced and am concerned about whether the filament would be usable for support structures and infill.
# Answer
> 6 votes
In principle, it should work fine as a filament, since it's used extensively in the plastic extrusion industry, but I don't think you'd get great material properties out of it. ABS and HIPS incorporate polybutadiene into a graft polymer structure for a very good reason: the butadiene sections in the long molecular chains kind of "stick together" as a distinct solid phase to produce what amounts to micro-bubbles of rubber inside a matrix of hard styrene or acrylonitrile-styrene plastic. This compound microstructure is what gives HIPS and ABS favorable impact toughness and some minor flexibility.
The flexibility is important -- the stiffer a filament is, the more it will tend to warp while printing. Based on chemistry alone, I would expect styrene to be somewhat more prone to warping than ABS. And it would certainly be more brittle. So there doesn't seem to be much reason to use it as filament.
Interesting sidenote: PLA/PHA has very favorable mechanical properties because the PHA forms a very similar flexible microstructure inside the hard PLA matrix. PLA/PHA is good stuff because it mimics ABS and HIPS!
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Tags: filament, filament-production
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thread-318 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/318 | Can MeshMixer export models for color 3D printing? | 2016-01-18T02:24:45.413 | # Question
Title: Can MeshMixer export models for color 3D printing?
I have captured several models using 123D Catch and Autodesk ReCap 360.
I do all my "clean up" work in MeshMixer to prepare the models for printing, and while exporting to STL works great for printing on my home FDM printer I haven't been able to get color files exported.
I would like to export scanned models from MeshMixer and upload them to an online printing service (i.e. Shapeways or iMaterialise) and have them printed on high end color machines.
My current workflow goes as follows.
1. Export raw model (OBJ) from 123D Catch or ReCap.
2. Open model in MeshMixer v10.10.170.
3. Remove unnecessary parts of the model.
4. Export model as OBJ, OBJ with per vertex color, or VRML.
5. Zip model and exported texture files and upload to an online service.
The file in MeshMixer looks great, but ends up with either jumbled or nonexistent textures when it's uploaded to an online service. I'm guessing I'm exporting the file wrong for 3D printing, or possibly that I need to do some post-export editing to make everything line up correctly.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Color is only displayed if you set MeshMixer to render VertexColor:
```
MM menue/View/MeshColorMode/VertexColor
```
Color should be visible if VertexColor is active.
* Meshmixer is a sculpting program, so it isn’t made for taking exact measurements, creating mechanical parts, or creating architecture models.
* Basic rendering options make pretty screenshots, but advanced users might want to add in backgrounds or set up custom lighting.
Also, you can read more about this matter on **this link.**
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Tags: 123d-catch, obj
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thread-410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/410 | How to choose a right 3D printer filament type? | 2016-01-27T14:30:41.597 | # Question
Title: How to choose a right 3D printer filament type?
There are a big variety of them that can be found at the market. Some of them have similar characteristics, the other varies from each other.
What are props and cons of cheaper filament vs expensive filament?
How to choose which filament to use?
# Answer
1. Determine what properties you need the filament to have.
There are a very wide variety of filaments because they all have somewhat different properties. You need to determine what properties you need your final print to possess. For instance, ABS can be smoothed used acetone and PLA is biodegradable. More exotic filaments could be conductive or be extremely flexible. Do not neglect to consider safety of the plastic in your application. A full list of properties is too broad for an appropriate answer from this site.
2. Determine what you printer is designed to handle.
Most printers can handle PLA and ABS with little issue but higher temperatures are required to use some materials such as nylon and polycarbonate. Determine beforehand what your printer is designed to handle. This includes determining whether you have and appropriate heated bed or other accessories.
3. Determine what you can afford.
Printing not only requires the cost of the weight of filament in the final print but all of the support structures and misprints you produce. Not only should you look for inexpensive filaments, but you should look for ones that are good enough quality you don't waste time and money fighting problems with the raw material.
All in all, this will vary case by case. I would recommend that you start with PLA or ABS as they are common and relatively easy to work with but that you do your own research into what each individual filament type has to offer..
> 10 votes
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Tags: filament
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thread-413 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/413 | Methods for smoothing 3D objects | 2016-01-27T16:25:12.577 | # Question
Title: Methods for smoothing 3D objects
How do I smooth 3D printed objects? What is the best / common method to do this?
# Answer
Abrasive blasting is the only other method I can think of which you haven't said you don't want to try.
It is certainly the easiest method provided you have access to one.
Different forms of abrasive blasting include:
* shot blasting (metal shot) - I suspect it would be far to abrasive but I've never tried it.
* sandblasting - you have to be careful but this is basically sandpaper attached to a wand. I've used it with great success.
* bead blasting - using plastic beads. It might actually be the best option but I've never tried it.
* media blasting - usually uses ground up shells. Might work but I've never tried it.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Get a rock/jewelry tumbler and some tumbling media such as stainless steel shot, and try tumbling your print.
For 3D printed plastic, your print will (a) need to be sturdy, and (b) not have any fine details or small parts that you don't want to be worn away. With metal you will tumble it for hours in order to smooth and semi-polish the surface. With plastic, I would recommend a much shorter time period.
One person tried this using screws as his tumbling media, and has some interesting results to show for it. Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4. Basically, you can get a metallic coating on your plastic print that is made up of tiny bits of the tumbling medium. You'll need to add a protective coating to keep it from rubbing off, but it's cheaper than buying metallic filament.
(Thanks to Mark Walter's comment for the linked articles)
> 2 votes
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Tags: post-processing, smoothing
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thread-402 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/402 | How to use a multimeter to test how many amps RAMPS is pulling? | 2016-01-26T17:45:57.233 | # Question
Title: How to use a multimeter to test how many amps RAMPS is pulling?
This is in with my other question about components and the other question about electricity; how can I check to see how many amps are being pulled? Can I check a component at a time to make sure I'm not going over the limit, and then just add them all in together once I've summed the amps to make sure it's safe to hook everything up. The amps shouldn't change right?
What settings should my multimeter be set to? And to check how much it's pulling, do I just put the multimeter's leads on the green terminals on RAMPS 1.4?
# Answer
> 7 votes
To measure amps (current), the meter has to be wired in series with the item to be measured (for this reason, ammeters are designed to have very low resistance).
This has the down-side that you have to disconnect the component to put the meter in line with it. That makes it hard to do the "check a component at a time" method you mentioned.
An ammeter measures *actual* current flow, so you really can't test a component for it in isolation. Components can have wildly different "current draw" depending on the situation. For example, motor current varies with torque and speed; current through a resistor varies with the voltage across it; and so on.
There are special "clamp-on" current meters that just clamp around a conductor and report the current by using induction. Very nice if you have one.
If you just want the total current the entire RAMPS board is pulling, put the ammeter between the power supply and the RAMPS power input connection(s). Be *very* sure not to have the meter set to read volts or ohms when you do this (it might or might not survive).
# Answer
> 3 votes
The easiest method is to use a Clamp On amp meter on either the hot or neutral of your power supply.
In most cases clamp on meters only work with AC xor DC power so you would only be able to get the reading on one side of the power supply.
Multiply this number by the voltage and you get the wattage.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you don't want to stick a multimeter on the wire, I recommend getting a kill-a-watt meter. Pretty much, you plug it into the wall, and plug the printer into the meter, and it has a little screen that shows the result.
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Tags: ramps-1.4
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thread-386 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/386 | Making your own filament | 2016-01-25T01:51:24.097 | # Question
Title: Making your own filament
I"m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987. Partly because it's another machine to build, which is cool, but also to save money on filament.
Has anyone here tried to make their own filament? My main questions are:
* Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's good enough to use without a lot of frustration?
* Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.
* Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?
# Answer
1. Quality depends on 3 things:
1. Quality of pellets (purity, fillers, color)
2. Where/how they are stored before and during the extrusion (humidity, contaminants)
3. Have a filter in your extruder to get rid of random junk and air bubbles ending up in your filament (250 micron wire mesh filter)
There's no secret formula the filament producing companies have, they just have very efficient and very fast filament producing machines (of course very expensive, too). But when it comes to vanilla ABS or PLA, it's almost the same content.
2. Personal experience: no. If you get the same pellets, store it in the same place and run your extruder in the same place, it should behave the same.
3. I don't think there is some filament mixture you won't be able to find anywhere, but you might be able to make it yourself cheaper. Example: mixing strontium aluminate powder for glow in the dark filament (come in many colors, not just green).
I'd recommend this design: http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/ It produces filament pretty fast (one full 1kg spoon in 3-4 hours). Just make sure you have enough experience to not electrocute yourself while assembling this as the heaters use mains power.
I personally think the commercial "hobby" extruders are not worth the money. I also own the Filastruder and it's just no different and slower than the above, unless you care about a pretty plywood case for your extruder I see no advantage and since it uses off-the-shelf parts itself why bother buying a kit like that than sourcing the parts yourself?
> 8 votes
# Answer
You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.
**One guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.**
My conclusion is that you can recycle everything using this data gathered from research up in link there.
Also, you can use any plastic material and pulverize it into pellets (even from the bottles) and you can try to do this process. Only thing that matters is quality of product.
I was thinking about pellets from vinyl records. I bought one big collection before one year, and there was around 500-600 records that are completley useless. So, you can pulverize them and repeat the process, because process of making vinyl records and process of making bottles is completley different, and uses different kind of plastics.
So to draw a conslusion: everything depends on quality of pellets.
And to answer on your three questions:
> Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put
> another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's
> good enough to use without a lot of frustration?
No, it isn't Your filament would be lower quality if you don't get a great pellets.
> Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.
Yes it does. Check the link up there.
> Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?
Again, it all depends on type of filament you like to use. I wrote about plastic filaments.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Producing own filament is a challenging task. I see main pitfall in producing filament so it has same quality as you get in shop. You have to:
* constant round-shape diameter
* diameter tolerance ±0.05 mm
* avoid bubbles and other defects
* avoid object in filament (depends on pellets quality)
* store pellets properly (high humidity is a problem)
Additionally you have to deal with spooling, because it affects the diameter too (if you roll filament too fast then you reduce its diameter).
It takes a lot of time and frustration to develop such a machine. If you would like to produce own filament, consider buying a filament machine:
If you would like to use different material then ABS/PLA then take a look on Strooder documentation - they confirm usage of PP, PET, HDPE, HIPS, PE, even wood filament.
Is it not better option to print directly from pellets? Take a look on Universal Pellet Extruder for RepRap (model).
> 5 votes
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Tags: filament, recycling, filament-production
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thread-458 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/458 | Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height? | 2016-02-03T09:30:32.887 | # Question
Title: Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height?
I'm thinking of another extruder on my printer, and I'm curious about this one....
Is it necessary to have both hot ends on same height? Why yes / why not? (if there is not)
# Answer
> 7 votes
I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, printing with the high extruder made it so the lower extruder would scrape the molten plastic layer. This made my surface finish horrible and almost impossible for support structures to be printed.
Instead of fighting with my stock nozzle assembly to get everything perfectly lined up, I just shimmed the one side with some stacks of paper cutouts. This brought my extruders very close to even.
Also, you'll want to make sure excess plastic is cleaned off of **BOTH** nozzles when printing with either nozzle. I found that some prints would fail because of a small discharge from a previous print on the other nozzle.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I don't have dual extruder printer myself, but to my understanding having both nozzles leveled at the same height is critical for getting successful prints.
For typical FDM printers, the lowest point of the end effector should always be the nozzle. If you, for instance, mount a fan lower than the tip of your nozzle, it will eventually collide with the printed object.
The effect of having unequally leveled nozzle tips for a dual extruder printer will be exactly the same: one of the nozzles will either drag against or collide with the model during print; or, one of the nozzles will be to far away from the model, giving poor layer adhesion. Either way, the result will be sub-optimal.
So, leveling both nozzles equally is probably a good idea. You might want to have a look at this question on some advice regarding how to do it.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If your printer has no way to move the heads up and down, or otherwise out of the way, and your slicer isn't able to detect collisions and account for head height differences in the produced G code, then they must be at exactly the same height *from the bed*.
If extruder A is hanging lower than extruder B, then when B has printed at a certain level, and A moves across that area, A will hit the material B has printed.
Unfortunately, this is further complicated for newer printers because some of them rely on digital bed leveling. If your bed isn't parallel to your X and Y axis movement, then you have to work very hard to make sure the heads are parallel to the bed, and with some mechanisms this isn't possible without making the mechanism itself parallel to the bed, so just mounting the new head at the same height as the other head might not be sufficient if your printer isn't perfectly calibrated already.
I have not yet seen a printer or slicer that manages heads of different heights, but I suppose it's possible to manage the problem with additional intelligence. For instance, if the printer can move the heads up and down independently, it might move one down for printing, and the other up and out of the way when it's not printing, and then the opposite when it switches. I can't think of a good reason to do this, though.
Another option would be to develop a slicer to generate G-Code that will prevent such collisions. The printer would necessarily be limited in what it could print depending on the location of the second head, as there are some situations where it would need to print in a certain area, but a collision prevents it from getting to that area.
At any rate, no one has developed such software or mechanisms yet, so if you had good reason to mount the heads at different heights, you'd have to account for all of these factors and develop the complete solution yourself.
# Answer
> 0 votes
To add to the above answers, besides the obvious point that one hotend might collide with something another hotend positioned lower than it has printed, you also want both hotends to be positioned X microns above the bed at minimum height so your filament will stick to the bed properly. Position one a bit higher than the other and what it prints won't stick to the bed very well, position one a bit lower and it will hit the bed and clog/be unable to print the first layer. The only reason I can think of when you'd want one hotend to be higher is a situation when you're not using both hotends and don't want the second hotend to drag on and deform a layer the main hotend has printed and is still warm and deformable. If that's an issue (I doubt) then sure, move it a bit higher.
If there are other reasons for what you would like to have the hotends at different heights, please add that to your question. I can't think of one myself.
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Tags: printer-building, hotend, dual-nozzle, calibration, layer-height
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thread-450 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/450 | Broken Print Bed | 2016-02-03T01:01:00.623 | # Question
Title: Broken Print Bed
I have a Robo 3D. However A while ago, the print bed was fractured, and now it has a long crack cutting it in half. The bed still works because it is held together, by the screws holding the bed to the tracks. So I want to continue using it, because it still is fairly good, the heating element works fine, and a replacement bed is 80$, and I am unsure if the one sold on the RoBo 3D website will be compatible with my printer as I don't have the R1, but a version before that.
So my question is: How can I best align the two glass fragments, to provide as flat a print surface as possible, and two how to best hold these two pieces in place, or if it would be best to invest in a new print bed?
EDIT: Here is a image of the heating element as well to explain the situation with how it is attached
EDIT: The RoBo 3D team have said that I just need to upgrade my y-axis with a object on thingiverse and then buy their new build plate. So I am going to experiment with a glass replacement, and if that fails to succeed then I will go along with their suggestion, and buy the upgrade. Thanks everyone for their help.
# Answer
A little chip is fine, but I wouldn't print with that big of a crack. **However**, that doesn't mean you need to spend $80 on a new sheet of glass.
Option #1- If you want borosilicate glass, you can get a sheet from either McMaster (about $40+shipping for a 10"x10" piece, less for smaller) or from a local glass maker (the price varies a lot, so you should check that also if you want to go that route). However, you won't be able to drill holes (tempered glass *will* break of you drill a hole). Borosilicate glass has the advantage of being *extremely* heat-resistant, so it won't break from thermal expansion. If you go this route, you should pick up a few binder clips also to attach the sheet to the heated bed.
Option #2- You might be able to get picture frame glass from a hardware store. It's super cheap (mine was $3 or something from lowes) and they'll often cut it to exact size. You might be able to drill this, but you have to be extremely careful. Sometimes, the hardware store can drill holes in the sheet for you if needed. If you don't want to drill, a few binder clips will work just as well.
Just a note for if you are using binder clips: you might need to (depending on how your hbp is set up) get a piece of glass that is slightly smaller to allow for any bed leveling screws to have room. If you're going with the picture frame glass, you should make sure that the glass will be entirely within the heated part so that there isn't any heat gradient (that's how glass cracks/shatters).
> 4 votes
# Answer
Replacing your bed is the safest option, especially if you have a heated bed. Cracks and chips in the glass create an uneven surface for your prints, and can become a safety hazard; additionally, while borosilicate glass is very resistant to thermal shock, it can continue to crack or shatter when subjected to rapid/uneven temperature variations after damage. Borosilicate glass tends to break in large pieces rather than shattering (snap instead of splintering), but it's still a safety hazard.
It sounds like you have the Kickstarter version of the Robo3D R1; the current glass bed on the Robo3D uses magnets to hold the bed in place, so you'd probably need to replace your Y axis rails along with the bed. I would contact Robo3D support to see what options you have available for upgrading the bed and rails through them.
Aside from Robo3D, you have a few options: \- If you plan to continue using the bed, Kapton tape is an effective surface application for general printing. It's very thin, but provides an effective surface for ABS & PLA adherence, works with heated beds, and is compatible with secondary adherence items (blue masking tape, PVA glue, ABS slurry, etc). Kapton tape can be damaged after several prints, so plan on having several sheets on hand. \- You can replace your current borosilicate glass with a new sheet of borosilicate glass from a secondary source \- Aluminum plates are an effective replacement \- Lexan sheets also make an effective replacement, but I wouldn't recommend applying heat to them.
> 4 votes
# Answer
IMHO your best bet is to use some kind of a tape. I do not have any experience with robo3dprinter but, I have been using glass with PET tape on in for past 4 years.
I have seen guys using Kapton tape as well. Never tried.
The main disadvantage on this solution is increasing the bed thickness, I am not sure if you are able to tinker with the Z level endstop, in case not this migh be an issue.
The other solution you can try is replace your bed with piece of glass and then apply PET tape or any other kind, I am also not sure if you are able to replace the bed print surface of not.
When using glass and PET tape, you need to get the surface of PET tape rough using sand paper, and you might have to apply so called Acetone Juice to make sure that your ABS prints will stick to the bed.
Acetone juice is basically Aceton with disolved piece of Natural ABS plastic this created sticky layer on your bed that helps to hold your prints on the bed while printing.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If your heatbed itself is aluminum/copper/other metal: Get a glass cut and replace it. The current one is probably attached to the heatbed with adhesive glue. If it the adhesive is cyanocrylate based, you can remove by rubbing with acetone. If silicone type, it will come off by some force. Don't worry, you won't damage aluminum. THe heating element is either inside the aluminum or under it. If it's not alumunum it's likely a PCB heatbed. Then I wouldn't suggest to use acetone or some "antiglue" and would just try to apply a little force and see if the glass moves a bit. If no, don't bother, PCB heatbeds can break too. Then I'd just suggest to apply some epoxy to cover the holes surrounding the cracks and keeping the glasses uniform.
Also, about replacement glasses: picture frame glasses are very cheap. McMaster sells some high quality bearings and rods, but for glass there's no point to waste money. $5 is typical for that size borosilicate glass, if you're in USA (I'm not) I think your local Home Depot will cut it for free for you as well.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I agree with several others that your best bet is to replace the glass entirely. But short of that, you might try something like Loctite "Glass glue", which is essentially crazy glue for glass. Be sure to level and clamp well while drying, or you'll end up with it permanently *not* straight of course. You'd want it clamped to a very flat surface, and clamped pushing the broken edges together. But I think I'd just replace it.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, hbp
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thread-461 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/461 | Printing multiple materials with different properties on the same device | 2016-02-03T10:39:03.100 | # Question
Title: Printing multiple materials with different properties on the same device
I have searched the internet and found various 3D printers with different advantages and materials which they can print - some even multi color.
However, I cannot seem to find a printer that can print multiple material with different properties; for instance, simultaneously printing PLA and metal. Is there currently such a printer available or in development?
# Answer
Yes and no.
> for instance simultanious printing of plas plastic and lets say metal. Is such a printer available or in development ?
Practically speaking, no. Metal printing requires significantly higher temperatures than plastic, and the two processes are so incompatible that there is currently no good solutions that would allow one printer to print both in the same print. Whether extruding filament, laser sintering, or curing resins, the materials involved have to be fairly similar in processing environment to print adjacent to each other without issue.
There are many printers that are intended to print multiple materials by changing the print head. You might, for instance, use a ceramic paste extruder, then change the head for the next print using plastic.
There have been efforts in the past, and some efforts are ongoing, to resolve this. For instance wood's metal, a low temperature alloy, can be poured at temperatures compatible with plastics, so it's possible to create a printer that prints plastic, leaving troughs or voids in the plastic, then the same printer during this print would pour molten woods metal into these areas, which then solidifies into an internal metal structure. These are intended for circuitry and electrical use, however significant problems still exist because the thermal expansion differences in these materials lead to stress and result in poor reliability.
So while some of these processes are being developed, this is still just in the experimental stage and there are significant problems to overcome before printers can print widely different materials in a single printing session.
Of course you can find plastics with such a wide range of characteristics that they can be seen as printing different materials. Plastics imbued with wood fibers, printing next to conductive plastics with graphite, printing next to flexible plastics, etc, etc are now possible, and depending on your requirements they may meet your needs.
> 7 votes
# Answer
For the most part, you can achieve this with a dual extruding printer. However, dual extrusion is best for either multi-color printing or printing with support material. For example, printing the part with PLA and all support material with water soluble PVA.
In practice, printing two completely different materials is not sound engineering practice as they have the potential to not make a well enough bond to each other. So, the case of pure metal and pure plastic, the two materials will not bond well because they will not both be in the same physical state together at any point in time.
However, your best option would be a printer like the MarkForged which uses a composite approach by combining a common binder (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc.) and a strong material such as Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, or Kevlar.
> 3 votes
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Tags: multi-material
--- |
Marin Markdownified StackExchange
Markdownified Stack Exchange transforms the Stack Exchange's question-answer pairs into Markdown format consisting of 20.4B tokens. This dataset preserves the content contained in technical discussions while organizing it into a thread format for language model training.
Value | |
---|---|
Tokens | 20 413 785 853 |
Primary source | https://archive.org/details/stackexchange |
File format | JSONL |
License | CC (mirrors upstream SE licenses) |
Processing and Cleaning Pipeline
Our conversion pipeline combines several sophisticated techniques to transform raw Wikipedia HTML into high-quality Markdown:
HTML Preprocessing: We start with the Stack Exachange Dump which provides XML representations of Posts
Structured Q&A Format Each thread is formatted with clear section headings:
- "# Question" with title and body
- "# Answer" for each response
- Vote counts are preserved next to each answer
- Tags are appended at the bottom with a separator
Template Variations
- Answer templates are randomly varied
- Vote counts may appear either before or after answer content
- This randomization is seeded deterministically based on the question ID
DOM Simplification: We employ a custom-enhanced version of Resiliparse that preserves semantic HTML structure. Rather than flattening to plain text, we retain important elements like headings, paragraphs, lists while removing scripts, tracking code, and boilerplate.
Markdown Conversion: Our custom Markdownify implementation transforms the simplified DOM into clean Markdown. The final output stores each article as a JSON object containing the Markdown text and essential metadata.
Template Structure
Each entry in the dataset contains a complete question-answer thread with: - Original question title - Question body in full Markdown - Multiple answers (when available) with vote counts - Original tags - Creation date - URL reference
Example template:
# Question
Title: What is the h-index exactly and how does it work?
What is the h-index, and how does it work ?
# Answer
The h-index is a measure of the impact of someone's publication list. An h-index of 10 for example means that the person has published 10 papers with at least 10 citations. The total number of papers published may be higher, but only 10 will have 10 or more citations.
Critics argue that this measure disadvantages young researchers who did not have time to publish a lot and whose work has not been published for long and thus may not have attracted many citations. Other criticisms include that it makes a researcher focus on how to increase the citation count for a paper that may be not that good but would increase the h-index.
For more explanation, see for example the Wikipedia article.
> 35 votes
---
Tags: bibliometrics, methodology, ranking
---
Usage Example
from datasets import load_dataset
ds = load_dataset(
"marin-community/stackexchange-markdown",
split="train",
streaming=True
)
for article in ds.take(3):
print(article["text"])
Citation
If you use this dataset in your research, please cite both the original Wikipedia contributors and our work:
@misc{markdownified_ar5iv_2024,
title = {Markdownified StackExchange},
author = {The Marin Community},
year = {2024},
url = {https://huggingface.co/datasets/marin-community/stackexchange-markdown}
}
License
All content inherits StackExachange's licensing: CC. Our conversion tools and pipeline are released under Apache 2.0.
Acknowledgement
We extend our gratitude to:
- The Stack Exchange network and its many contributors
- Janek Bevendorff for the Resiliparse project
- Matthew Dapena-Tretter for Markdownify
- Downloads last month
- 462
Models trained or fine-tuned on marin-community/stackexchange-markdown
